第4章

CHAPTERXVIII。

Ateightinthemorningwereachedtheremnantandruinofwhathadbeentheimportantmilitarystationof“CampFloyd，“someforty-fiveorfiftymilesfromSaltLakeCity。AtfourP。M。wehaddoubledourdistanceandwereninetyorahundredmilesfromSaltLake。AndnowweenteredupononeofthatspeciesofdesertswhoseconcentratedhideousnessshamesthediffusedanddilutedhorrorsofSahara——an“alkali“desert。Forsixty-

eightmilestherewasbutonebreakinit。Idonotrememberthatthiswasreallyabreak；indeeditseemstomethatitwasnothingbutawateringdepotinthemidstofthestretchofsixty-eightmiles。Ifmymemoryservesme，therewasnowellorspringatthisplace，butthewaterwashauledtherebymuleandoxteamsfromthefurthersideofthedesert。Therewasastagestationthere。Itwasforty-fivemilesfromthebeginningofthedesert，andtwenty-threefromtheendofit。

Weplowedanddraggedandgropedalong，thewholelive-longnight，andattheendofthisuncomfortabletwelvehourswefinishedtheforty-five-

milepartofthedesertandgottothestagestationwheretheimportedwaterwas。Thesunwasjustrising。Itwaseasyenoughtocrossadesertinthenightwhilewewereasleep；anditwaspleasanttoreflect，inthemorning，thatweinactualpersonhadencounteredanabsolutedesertandcouldalwaysspeakknowinglyofdesertsinpresenceoftheignorantthenceforward。Anditwaspleasantalsotoreflectthatthiswasnotanobscure，backcountrydesert，butaverycelebratedone，themetropolisitself，asyoumaysay。Allthiswasverywellandverycomfortableandsatisfactory——butnowweweretocrossadesertindaylight。Thiswasfine——novel——romantic——dramaticallyadventurous——

this，indeed，wasworthlivingfor，worthtravelingfor！Wewouldwritehomeallaboutit。

Thisenthusiasm，thissternthirstforadventure，wiltedunderthesultryAugustsunanddidnotlastaboveonehour。Onepoorlittlehour——andthenwewereashamedthatwehad“gushed“so。Thepoetrywasallintheanticipation——thereisnoneinthereality。Imagineavast，wavelessoceanstrickendeadandturnedtoashes；imaginethissolemnwastetuftedwithash-dustedsage-bushes；imaginethelifelesssilenceandsolitudethatbelongtosuchaplace；imagineacoach，creepinglikeabugthroughthemidstofthisshorelesslevel，andsendinguptumbledvolumesofdustasifitwereabugthatwentbysteam；imaginethisachingmonotonyoftoilingandplowingkeptuphourafterhour，andtheshorestillasfarawayasever，apparently；imagineteam，driver，coachandpassengerssodeeplycoatedwithashesthattheyareallonecolorlesscolor；imagineash-driftsroostingabovemoustachesandeyebrowslikesnowaccumulationsonboughsandbushes。Thisistherealityofit。

Thesunbeatsdownwithdead，blistering，relentlessmalignity；theperspirationiswellingfromeveryporeinmanandbeast，butscarcelyasignofitfindsitswaytothesurface——itisabsorbedbeforeitgetsthere；thereisnotthefaintestbreathofairstirring；thereisnotamercifulshredofcloudinallthebrilliantfirmament；thereisnotalivingcreaturevisibleinanydirectionwhitheronesearchestheblanklevelthatstretchesitsmonotonousmilesoneveryhand；thereisnotasound——notasigh——notawhisper——notabuzz，orawhirofwings，ordistantpipeofbird——notevenasobfromthelostsoulsthatdoubtlesspeoplethatdeadair。Andsotheoccasionalsneezingoftherestingmules，andthechampingofthebits，grateharshlyonthegrimstillness，notdissipatingthespellbutaccentingitandmakingonefeelmorelonesomeandforsakenthanbefore。

Themules，underviolentswearing，coaxingandwhip-cracking，wouldmakeatstatedintervalsa“spurt，“anddragthecoachahundredormaybetwohundredyards，stirringupabillowycloudofdustthatrolledback，envelopingthevehicletothewheel-topsorhigher，andmakingitseemafloatinafog。Thenarestfollowed，withtheusualsneezingandbit-

champing。Thenanother“spurt“ofahundredyardsandanotherrestattheendofit。Alldaylongwekeptthisup，withoutwaterforthemulesandwithouteverchangingtheteam。Atleastwekeptituptenhours，which，Itakeit，isaday，andaprettyhonestone，inanalkalidesert。

Itwasfromfourinthemorningtilltwointheafternoon。Anditwassohot！andsoclose！andourwatercanteenswentdryinthemiddleofthedayandwegotsothirsty！Itwassostupidandtiresomeanddull！andthetedioushoursdidlaganddragandlimpalongwithsuchacrueldeliberation！Itwassotryingtogiveone"swatchagoodlongundisturbedspellandthentakeitoutandfindthatithadbeenfoolingawaythetimeandnottryingtogetaheadany！Thealkalidustcutthroughourlips，itpersecutedoureyes，itatethroughthedelicatemembranesandmadeournosesbleedandkeptthembleeding——andtrulyandseriouslytheromanceallfadedfarawayanddisappeared，andleftthedeserttripnothingbutaharshreality——athirsty，sweltering，longing，hatefulreality！

Twomilesandaquarteranhourfortenhours——thatwaswhatweaccomplished。Itwashardtobringthecomprehensionawaydowntosuchasnail-paceasthat，whenwehadbeenusedtomakingeightandtenmilesanhour。Whenwereachedthestationonthefarthervergeofthedesert，wewereglad，forthefirsttime，thatthedictionarywasalong，becausewenevercouldhavefoundlanguagetotellhowgladwewere，inanysortofdictionarybutanunabridgedonewithpicturesinit。Buttherecouldnothavebeenfoundinawholelibraryofdictionarieslanguagesufficienttotellhowtiredthosemuleswereaftertheirtwenty-threemilepull。Totrytogivethereaderanideaofhowthirstytheywere，wouldbeto“gildrefinedgoldorpaintthelily。”

Somehow，nowthatitisthere，thequotationdoesnotseemtofit——butnomatter，letitstay，anyhow。Ithinkitisagracefulandattractivething，andthereforehavetriedtimeandtimeagaintoworkitinwhereitwouldfit，butcouldnotsucceed。Theseeffortshavekeptmyminddistractedandillatease，andmademynarrativeseembrokenanddisjointed，inplaces。Underthesecircumstancesitseemstomebesttoleaveitin，asabove，sincethiswillaffordatleastatemporaryrespitefromthewearandtearoftryingto“leadup“tothisreallyaptandbeautifulquotation。

CHAPTERXIX。

OnthemorningofthesixteenthdayoutfromSt。JosephwearrivedattheentranceofRockyCanyon，twohundredandfiftymilesfromSaltLake。

Itwasalonginthiswildcountrysomewhere，andfarfromanyhabitationofwhitemen，exceptthestagestations，thatwecameacrossthewretchedesttypeofmankindIhaveeverseen，uptothiswriting。I

refertotheGoshootIndians。Fromwhatwecouldseeandallwecouldlearn，theyareveryconsiderablyinferiortoeventhedespisedDiggerIndiansofCalifornia；inferiortoallracesofsavagesonourcontinent；

inferiortoeventheTerradelFuegans；inferiortotheHottentots，andactuallyinferiorinsomerespectstotheKytchesofAfrica。Indeed，I

havebeenobligedtolookthebulkyvolumesofWood"s“UncivilizedRacesofMen“clearthroughinordertofindasavagetribedegradedenoughtotakerankwiththeGoshoots。Ifindbutonepeoplefairlyopentothatshamefulverdict。ItistheBosjesmans(Bushmen)ofSouthAfrica。SuchoftheGoshootsaswesaw，alongtheroadandhangingaboutthestations，weresmall，lean，“scrawny“creatures；incomplexionadullblackliketheordinaryAmericannegro；theirfacesandhandsbearingdirtwhichtheyhadbeenhoardingandaccumulatingformonths，years，andevengenerations，accordingtotheageoftheproprietor；asilent，sneaking，treacherouslookingrace；takingnoteofeverything，covertly，likealltheother“NobleRedMen“thatwe(donot)readabout，andbetrayingnosignintheircountenances；indolent，everlastinglypatientandtireless，likeallotherIndians；pridelessbeggars——forifthebeggarinstinctwereleftoutofanIndianhewouldnot“go，“anymorethanaclockwithoutapendulum；hungry，alwayshungry，andyetneverrefusinganythingthatahogwouldeat，thoughofteneatingwhatahogwoulddecline；hunters，buthavingnohigherambitionthantokillandeatjack-assrabbits，cricketsandgrasshoppers，andembezzlecarrionfromthebuzzardsandcayotes；savageswho，whenaskediftheyhavethecommonIndianbeliefinaGreatSpiritshowasomethingwhichalmostamountstoemotion，thinkingwhiskeyisreferredto；athin，scatteringraceofalmostnakedblackchildren，theseGoshootsare，whoproducenothingatall，andhavenovillages，andnogatheringstogetherintostrictlydefinedtribalcommunities——apeoplewhoseonlyshelterisaragcastonabushtokeepoffaportionofthesnow，andyetwhoinhabitoneofthemostrocky，wintry，repulsivewastesthatourcountryoranyothercanexhibit。

TheBushmenandourGoshootsaremanifestlydescendedfromtheself-samegorilla，orkangaroo，orNorwayrat，which-everanimal——AdamtheDarwinianstracethemto。

OnewouldassoonexpecttherabbitstofightastheGoshoots，andyettheyusedtoliveofftheoffalandrefuseofthestationsafewmonthsandthencomesomedarknightwhennomischiefwasexpected，andburndownthebuildingsandkillthemenfromambushastheyrushedout。

Andonce，inthenight，theyattackedthestage-coachwhenaDistrictJudge，ofNevadaTerritory，wastheonlypassenger，andwiththeirfirstvolleyofarrows(andabulletortwo)theyriddledthestagecurtains，woundedahorseortwoandmortallywoundedthedriver。Thelatterwasfullofpluck，andsowashispassenger。Atthedriver"scallJudgeMottswunghimselfout，clamberedtotheboxandseizedthereinsoftheteam，andawaytheyplunged，throughtheracingmobofskeletonsandunderahurtlingstormofmissiles。Thestrickendriverhadsunkdownonthebootassoonashewaswounded，buthadheldontothereinsandsaidhewouldmanagetokeepholdofthemuntilrelieved。

Andaftertheyweretakenfromhisrelaxinggrasp，helaywithhisheadbetweenJudgeMott"sfeet，andtranquillygavedirectionsabouttheroad；

hesaidhebelievedhecouldlivetillthemiscreantswereoutrunandleftbehind，andthatifhemanagedthat，themaindifficultywouldbeatanend，andtheniftheJudgedrovesoandso(givingdirectionsaboutbadplacesintheroad，andgeneralcourse)hewouldreachthenextstationwithouttrouble。TheJudgedistancedtheenemyandatlastrattleduptothestationandknewthatthenight"sperilsweredone；buttherewasnocomrade-in-armsforhimtorejoicewith，forthesoldierlydriverwasdead。

LetusforgetthatwehavebeensayingharshthingsabouttheOverlanddrivers，now。ThedisgustwhichtheGoshootsgaveme，adiscipleofCooperandaworshipperoftheRedMan——evenofthescholarlysavagesinthe“LastoftheMohicans“whoarefittinglyassociatedwithbackwoodsmenwhodivideeachsentenceintotwoequalparts:onepartcriticallygrammatical，refinedandchoiceoflanguage，andtheotherpartjustsuchanattempttotalklikeahunteroramountaineer，asaBroadwayclerkmightmakeaftereatinganeditionofEmersonBennett"sworksandstudyingfrontierlifeattheBoweryTheatreacoupleofweeks——IsaythatthenauseawhichtheGoshootsgaveme，anIndianworshipper，setmetoexaminingauthorities，toseeifperchanceIhadbeenover-estimatingtheRedManwhileviewinghimthroughthemellowmoonshineofromance。

Therevelationsthatcameweredisenchanting。Itwascurioustoseehowquicklythepaintandtinselfellawayfromhimandlefthimtreacherous，filthyandrepulsive——andhowquicklytheevidencesaccumulatedthatwhereveronefindsanIndiantribehehasonlyfoundGoshootsmoreorlessmodifiedbycircumstancesandsurroundings——butGoshoots，afterall。

Theydeservepity，poorcreatures；andtheycanhavemine——atthisdistance。Nearerby，theynevergetanybody"s。

ThereisanimpressionabroadthattheBaltimoreandWashingtonRailroadCompanyandmanyofitsemployeesareGoshoots；butitisanerror。

Thereisonlyaplausibleresemblance，which，whileitisaptenoughtomisleadtheignorant，cannotdeceivepartieswhohavecontemplatedbothtribes。Butseriously，itwasnotonlypoorwit，butverywrongtostartthereportreferredtoabove；forhoweverinnocentthemotivemayhavebeen，thenecessaryeffectwastoinjurethereputationofaclasswhohaveahardenoughtimeofitinthepitilessdesertsoftheRockyMountains，Heavenknows！IfwecannotfinditinourheartstogivethosepoornakedcreaturesourChristiansympathyandcompassion，inGod"snameletusatleastnotthrowmudatthem。

CHAPTERXX。

Ontheseventeenthdaywepassedthehighestmountainpeakswehadyetseen，andalthoughthedaywasverywarmthenightthatfolloweduponitsheelswaswintrycoldandblanketswerenexttouseless。

Ontheeighteenthdayweencounteredtheeastward-boundtelegraph-

constructorsatReeseRiverstationandsentamessagetohisExcellencyGov。NyeatCarsonCity(distantonehundredandfifty-sixmiles)。

OnthenineteenthdaywecrossedtheGreatAmericanDesert——fortymemorablemilesofbottomlesssand，intowhichthecoachwheelssunkfromsixinchestoafoot。Weworkedourpassagemostofthewayacross。

Thatistosay，wegotoutandwalked。Itwasadrearypullandalongandthirstyone，forwehadnowater。Fromoneextremityofthisdeserttotheother，theroadwaswhitewiththebonesofoxenandhorses。

Itwouldhardlybeanexaggerationtosaythatwecouldhavewalkedthefortymilesandsetourfeetonaboneateverystep！Thedesertwasoneprodigiousgraveyard。Andthelog-chains，wagontyres，androttingwrecksofvehicleswerealmostasthickasthebones。Ithinkwesawlog-chainsenoughrustingthereinthedesert，toreachacrossanyStateintheUnion。DonottheserelicssuggestsomethingofanideaofthefearfulsufferingandprivationtheearlyemigrantstoCaliforniaendured?

AttheborderoftheDesertliesCarsonLake，orThe“Sink“oftheCarson，ashallow，melancholysheetofwatersomeeightyorahundredmilesincircumference。CarsonRiveremptiesintoitandislost——sinksmysteriouslyintotheearthandneverappearsinthelightofthesunagain——forthelakehasnooutletwhatever。

ThereareseveralriversinNevada，andtheyallhavethismysteriousfate。Theyendinvariouslakesor“sinks，“andthatisthelastofthem。CarsonLake，HumboldtLake，WalkerLake，MonoLake，areallgreatsheetsofwaterwithoutanyvisibleoutlet。Waterisalwaysflowingintothem；noneiseverseentoflowoutofthem，andyettheyremainalwayslevelfull，neitherrecedingnoroverflowing。WhattheydowiththeirsurplusisonlyknowntotheCreator。

OnthewesternvergeoftheDesertwehaltedamomentatRagtown。Itconsistedofoneloghouseandisnotsetdownonthemap。

Thisremindsmeofacircumstance。JustafterweleftJulesburg，onthePlatte，Iwassittingwiththedriver，andhesaid:

“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。

ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace"scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn"tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。

ButHankMonksaid，"Keepyourseat，Horace，andI"llgetyouthereontime"——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“

AdayortwoafterthatwepickedupaDenvermanatthecrossroads，andhetoldusagooddealaboutthecountryandtheGregoryDiggings。

HeseemedaveryentertainingpersonandamanwellpostedintheaffairsofColorado。Byandbyheremarked:

“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace"scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn"tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。

ButHankMonksaid，"Keepyourseat，Horace，andI"llgetyouthereontime！"——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“

AtFortBridger，somedaysafterthis，wetookonboardacavalrysergeant，averyproperandsoldierlypersonindeed。Fromnoothermanduringthewholejourney，didwegathersuchastoreofconciseandwell-

arrangedmilitaryinformation。Itwassurprisingtofindinthedesolatewildsofourcountryamansothoroughlyacquaintedwitheverythingusefultoknowinhislineoflife，andyetofsuchinferiorrankandunpretentiousbearing。Forasmuchasthreehourswelistenedtohimwithunabatedinterest。Finallyhegotuponthesubjectoftrans-

continentaltravel，andpresentlysaid:

“Icantellyouaverylaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureatPlacervilleandwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace"scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn"tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。

ButHankMonksaid，"Keepyourseat，Horace，andI"llgetyouthereontime！"——andyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“

WhenwewereeighthoursoutfromSaltLakeCityaMormonpreachergotinwithusatawaystation——agentle，soft-spoken，kindlyman，andonewhomanystrangerwouldwarmtoatfirstsight。Icanneverforgetthepathosthatwasinhisvoiceashetold，insimplelanguage，thestoryofhispeople"swanderingsandunpitiedsufferings。Nopulpiteloquencewaseversomovingandsobeautifulasthisoutcast"spictureofthefirstMormonpilgrimageacrosstheplains，strugglingsorrowfullyonwardtothelandofitsbanishmentandmarkingitsdesolatewaywithgravesandwateringitwithtears。Hiswordssowroughtuponusthatitwasarelieftousallwhentheconversationdriftedintoamorecheerfulchannelandthenaturalfeaturesofthecuriouscountrywewereincameundertreatment。Onematterafteranotherwaspleasantlydiscussed，andatlengththestrangersaid:

“Icantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeleywentoverthisroadonce。WhenhewasleavingCarsonCityhetoldthedriver，HankMonk，thathehadanengagementtolectureinPlacerville，andwasveryanxioustogothroughquick。HankMonkcrackedhiswhipandstartedoffatanawfulpace。ThecoachbouncedupanddowninsuchaterrificwaythatitjoltedthebuttonsalloffofHorace"scoat，andfinallyshothisheadcleanthroughtheroofofthestage，andthenheyelledatHankMonkandbeggedhimtogoeasier——saidhewarn"tinasmuchofahurryashewasawhileago。

ButHankMonksaid，"Keepyourseat，Horace，andI"llgetyouthereontime！"——andyoubetyoubetyouhedid，too，whatwasleftofhim！“

TenmilesoutofRagtownwefoundapoorwandererwhohadlaindowntodie。Hehadwalkedaslongashecould，buthislimbshadfailedhimatlast。Hungerandfatiguehadconqueredhim。Itwouldhavebeeninhumantoleavehimthere。WepaidhisfaretoCarsonandliftedhimintothecoach。Itwassomelittletimebeforeheshowedanyverydecidedsignsoflife；butbydintofchafinghimandpouringbrandybetweenhislipswefinallybroughthimtoalanguidconsciousness。Thenwefedhimalittle，andbyandbyheseemedtocomprehendthesituationandagratefullightsoftenedhiseye。Wemadehismail-sackbedascomfortableaspossible，andconstructedapillowforhimwithourcoats。

Heseemedverythankful。Thenhelookedupinourfaces，andsaidinafeeblevoicethathadatrembleofhonestemotioninit:

“Gentlemen，Iknownotwhoyouare，butyouhavesavedmylife；andalthoughIcanneverbeabletorepayyouforit，IfeelthatIcanatleastmakeonehourofyourlongjourneylighter。Itakeityouarestrangerstothisgreatthoroughfare，butIamentirelyfamiliarwithit。InthisconnectionIcantellyouamostlaughablethingindeed，ifyouwouldliketolistentoit。HoraceGreeley——“

Isaid，impressively:

“Sufferingstranger，proceedatyourperil。Youseeinmethemelancholywreckofaoncestalwartandmagnificentmanhood。Whathasbroughtmetothis?Thatthingwhichyouareabouttotell。Graduallybutsurely，thattiresomeoldanecdotehassappedmystrength，underminedmyconstitution，witheredmylife。Pitymyhelplessness。Sparemeonlyjustthisonce，andtellmeaboutyoungGeorgeWashingtonandhislittlehatchetforachange。”

Weweresaved。Butnotsotheinvalid。Intryingtoretaintheanecdoteinhissystemhestrainedhimselfanddiedinourarms。

Iamaware，now，thatIoughtnottohaveaskedofthesturdiestcitizenofallthatregion，whatIaskedofthatmereshadowofaman；for，aftersevenyears"residenceonthePacificcoast，IknowthatnopassengerordriverontheOverlandevercorkedthatanecdotein，whenastrangerwasby，andsurvived。WithinaperiodofsixyearsIcrossedandrecrossedtheSierrasbetweenNevadaandCaliforniathirteentimesbystageandlistenedtothatdeathlessincidentfourhundredandeighty-oneoreighty-twotimes。Ihavethelistsomewhere。Driversalwaystoldit，conductorstoldit，landlordstoldit，chancepassengerstoldit，theveryChinamenandvagrantIndiansrecountedit。Ihavehadthesamedrivertellittometwoorthreetimesinthesameafternoon。IthascometomeinallthemultitudeoftonguesthatBabelbequeathedtoearth，andflavoredwithwhiskey，brandy，beer，cologne，sozodont，tobacco，garlic，onions，grasshoppers——everythingthathasafragrancetoitthroughallthelonglistofthingsthataregorgedorguzzledbythesonsofmen。IneverhavesmeltanyanecdoteasoftenasIhavesmeltthatone；neverhavesmeltanyanecdotethatsmeltsovariegatedasthatone。Andyounevercouldlearntoknowitbyitssmell，becauseeverytimeyouthoughtyouhadlearnedthesmellofit，itwouldturnupwithadifferentsmell。BayardTaylorhaswrittenaboutthishoaryanecdote，Richardsonhaspublishedit；sohaveJones，Smith，Johnson，RossBrowne，andeveryothercorrespondence-inditingbeingthateversethisfootuponthegreatoverlandroadanywherebetweenJulesburgandSanFrancisco；andIhaveheardthatitisintheTalmud。Ihaveseenitinprintinninedifferentforeignlanguages；IhavebeentoldthatitisemployedintheinquisitioninRome；andInowlearnwithregretthatitisgoingtobesettomusic。Idonotthinkthatsuchthingsareright。

Stage-coachingontheOverlandisnomore，andstagedriversarearacedefunct。Iwonderiftheybequeathedthatbald-headedanecdotetotheirsuccessors，therailroadbrakemenandconductors，andiftheselatterstillpersecutethehelplesspassengerwithituntilheconcludes，asdidmanyatouristofotherdays，thattherealgrandeursofthePacificcoastarenotYoSemiteandtheBigTrees，butHankMonkandhisadventurewithHoraceGreeley。[Andwhatmakesthatwornanecdotethemoreaggravating，is，thattheadventureitcelebratesneveroccurred。

Ifitwereagoodanecdote，thatseemingdemeritwouldbeitschiefestvirtue，forcreativepowerbelongstogreatness；butwhatoughttobedonetoamanwhowouldwantonlycontrivesoflataoneasthis?IfI

weretosuggestwhatoughttobedonetohim，Ishouldbecalledextravagant——butwhatdoesthesixteenthchapterofDanielsay?Aha！]

CHAPTERXXI。

Wewereapproachingtheendofourlongjourney。Itwasthemorningofthetwentiethday。AtnoonwewouldreachCarsonCity，thecapitalofNevadaTerritory。Wewerenotglad，butsorry。Ithadbeenafinepleasuretrip；wehadfedfatonwonderseveryday；wewerenowwellaccustomedtostagelife，andveryfondofit；sotheideaofcomingtoastand-stillandsettlingdowntoahumdrumexistenceinavillagewasnotagreeable，butonthecontrarydepressing。

Visiblyournewhomewasadesert，walledinbybarren，snow-cladmountains。Therewasnotatreeinsight。Therewasnovegetationbuttheendlesssage-brushandgreasewood。Allnaturewasgraywithit。Wewereplowingthroughgreatdeepsofpowderyalkalidustthatroseinthickcloudsandfloatedacrosstheplainlikesmokefromaburninghouse。

Wewerecoatedwithitlikemillers；sowerethecoach，themules，themail-bags，thedriver——weandthesage-brushandtheotherscenerywereallonemonotonouscolor。Longtrainsoffreightwagonsinthedistanceenvelopeinascendingmassesofdustsuggestedpicturesofprairiesonfire。Theseteamsandtheirmastersweretheonlylifewesaw。

Otherwisewemovedinthemidstofsolitude，silenceanddesolation。

Everytwentystepswepassedtheskeletonofsomedeadbeastofburthen，withitsdust-coatedskinstretchedtightlyoveritsemptyribs。

Frequentlyasolemnravensatupontheskullorthehipsandcontemplatedthepassingcoachwithmeditativeserenity。

ByandbyCarsonCitywaspointedouttous。Itnestledintheedgeofagreatplainandwasasufficientnumberofmilesawaytolooklikeanassemblageofmerewhitespotsintheshadowofagrimrangeofmountainsoverlookingit，whosesummitsseemedliftedclearoutofcompanionshipandconsciousnessofearthlythings。

Wearrived，disembarked，andthestagewenton。Itwasa“wooden“town；

itspopulationtwothousandsouls。Themainstreetconsistedoffourorfiveblocksoflittlewhiteframestoreswhichweretoohightositdownon，butnottoohighforvariousotherpurposes；infact，hardlyhighenough。Theywerepackedclosetogether，sidebyside，asifroomwerescarceinthatmightyplain。

Thesidewalkwasofboardsthatweremoreorlesslooseandinclinedtorattlewhenwalkedupon。Inthemiddleofthetown，oppositethestores，wasthe“plaza“whichisnativetoalltownsbeyondtheRockyMountains——

alarge，unfenced，levelvacancy，withalibertypoleinit，andveryusefulasaplaceforpublicauctions，horsetrades，andmassmeetings，andlikewiseforteamsterstocampin。Twoothersidesoftheplazawerefacedbystores，officesandstables。

TherestofCarsonCitywasprettyscattering。

Wewereintroducedtoseveralcitizens，atthestage-officeandonthewayuptotheGovernor"sfromthehotel——amongothers，toaMr。Harris，whowasonhorseback；hebegantosaysomething，butinterruptedhimselfwiththeremark:

“I"llhavetogetyoutoexcusemeaminute；yonderisthewitnessthatsworeIhelpedtorobtheCaliforniacoach——apieceofimpertinentintermeddling，sir，forIamnotevenacquaintedwiththeman。”

Thenherodeoverandbegantorebukethestrangerwithasix-shooter，andthestrangerbegantoexplainwithanother。Whenthepistolswereemptied，thestrangerresumedhiswork(mendingawhip-lash)，andMr。

Harrisrodebywithapolitenod，homewardbound，withabulletthroughoneofhislungs，andseveralinhiships；andfromthemissuedlittlerivuletsofbloodthatcourseddownthehorse"ssidesandmadetheanimallookquitepicturesque。IneversawHarrisshootamanafterthatbutitrecalledtomindthatfirstdayinCarson。

Thiswasallwesawthatday，foritwastwoo"clock，now，andaccordingtocustomthedaily“WashoeZephyr“setin；asoaringdust-driftaboutthesizeoftheUnitedStatessetupedgewisecamewithit，andthecapitalofNevadaTerritorydisappearedfromview。

Still，thereweresightstobeseenwhichwerenotwhollyuninterestingtonewcomers；forthevastdustcloudwasthicklyfreckledwiththingsstrangetotheupperair——thingslivinganddead，thatflittedhitherandthither，goingandcoming，appearinganddisappearingamongtherollingbillowsofdust——hats，chickensandparasolssailingintheremoteheavens；blankets，tinsigns，sage-brushandshinglesashadelower；

door-matsandbuffalorobeslowerstill；shovelsandcoalscuttlesonthenextgrade；glassdoors，catsandlittlechildrenonthenext；disruptedlumberyards，lightbuggiesandwheelbarrowsonthenext；anddownonlythirtyorfortyfeetabovegroundwasascurryingstormofemigratingroofsandvacantlots。

Itwassomethingtoseethatmuch。Icouldhaveseenmore，ifIcouldhavekeptthedustoutofmyeyes。

ButseriouslyaWashoewindisbynomeansatriflingmatter。Itblowsflimsyhousesdown，liftsshingleroofsoccasionally，rollsuptinoneslikesheetmusic，nowandthenblowsastagecoachoverandspillsthepassengers；andtraditionsaysthereasontherearesomanybaldpeoplethere，is，thatthewindblowsthehairofftheirheadswhiletheyarelookingskywardaftertheirhats。CarsonstreetsseldomlookinactiveonSummerafternoons，becausetherearesomanycitizensskippingaroundtheirescapinghats，likechambermaidstryingtoheadoffaspider。

The“WashoeZephyr“(WashoeisapetnicknameforNevada)isapeculiarScripturalwind，inthatnomanknoweth“whenceitcometh。”Thatistosay，whereitoriginates。ItcomesrightoverthemountainsfromtheWest，butwhenonecrossestheridgehedoesnotfindanyofitontheotherside！Itprobablyismanufacturedonthemountain-topfortheoccasion，andstartsfromthere。Itisaprettyregularwind，inthesummertime。Itsofficehoursarefromtwointheafternoontilltwothenextmorning；andanybodyventuringabroadduringthosetwelvehoursneedstoallowforthewindorhewillbringupamileortwotoleewardofthepointheisaimingat。AndyetthefirstcomplaintaWashoevisitortoSanFranciscomakes，isthattheseawindsblowso，there！

Thereisagooddealofhumannatureinthat。

WefoundthestatepalaceoftheGovernorofNevadaTerritorytoconsistofawhiteframeone-storyhousewithtwosmallroomsinitandastanchionsupportedshedinfront——forgrandeur——itcompelledtherespectofthecitizenandinspiredtheIndianswithawe。ThenewlyarrivedChiefandAssociateJusticesoftheTerritory，andothermachineryofthegovernment，weredomiciledwithlesssplendor。Theywereboardingaroundprivately，andhadtheirofficesintheirbedrooms。

TheSecretaryandItookquartersinthe“ranch“ofaworthyFrenchladybythenameofBridgetO"Flannigan，acampfollowerofhisExcellencytheGovernor。Shehadknownhiminhisprosperityascommander-in-chiefoftheMetropolitanPoliceofNewYork，andshewouldnotdeserthiminhisadversityasGovernorofNevada。

Ourroomwasonthelowerfloor，facingtheplaza，andwhenwehadgotourbed，asmalltable，twochairs，thegovernmentfire-proofsafe，andtheUnabridgedDictionaryintoit，therewasstillroomenoughleftforavisitor——maybetwo，butnotwithoutstrainingthewalls。Butthewallscouldstandit——atleastthepartitionscould，fortheyconsistedsimplyofonethicknessofwhite“cottondomestic“stretchedfromcornertocorneroftheroom。ThiswastheruleinCarson——anyotherkindofpartitionwastherareexception。Andifyoustoodinadarkroomandyourneighborsinthenexthadlights，theshadowsonyourcanvastoldqueersecretssometimes！Veryoftenthesepartitionsweremadeofoldfloursacksbastedtogether；andthenthedifferencebetweenthecommonherdandthearistocracywas，thatthecommonherdhadunornamentedsacks，whilethewallsofthearistocratwereoverpoweringwithrudimentalfresco——i。e。，redandbluemillbrandsonthefloursacks。

Occasionally，also，thebetterclassesembellishedtheircanvasbypastingpicturesfromHarper"sWeeklyonthem。Inmanycases，too，thewealthyandtheculturedrosetospittoonsandotherevidencesofasumptuousandluxurioustaste。[WashoepeopletakeajokesohardthatI

mustexplainthattheabovedescriptionwasonlytherule；thereweremanyhonorableexceptionsinCarson——plasteredceilingsandhousesthathadconsiderablefurnitureinthem——M。T。]

Wehadacarpetandagenuinequeen"s-warewashbowl。ConsequentlywewerehatedwithoutreservebytheothertenantsoftheO"Flannigan“ranch。”Whenweaddedapaintedoilclothwindowcurtain，wesimplytookourlivesintoourownhands。TopreventbloodshedIremovedupstairsandtookupquarterswiththeuntitledplebeiansinoneofthefourteenwhitepinecot-bedsteadsthatstoodintwolongranksintheonesoleroomofwhichthesecondstoryconsisted。

Itwasajollycompany，thefourteen。Theywereprincipallyvoluntarycamp-followersoftheGovernor，whohadjoinedhisretinuebytheirownelectionatNewYorkandSanFranciscoandcamealong，feelingthatinthescuffleforlittleterritorialcrumbsandofficestheycouldnotmaketheirconditionmoreprecariousthanitwas，andmightreasonablyexpecttomakeitbetter。Theywerepopularlyknownasthe“IrishBrigade，“

thoughtherewereonlyfourorfiveIrishmenamongalltheGovernor"sretainers。

Hisgood-naturedExcellencywasmuchannoyedatthegossiphishenchmencreated——especiallywhentherearosearumorthattheywerepaidassassinsofhis，broughtalongtoquietlyreducethedemocraticvotewhendesirable！

Mrs。O"Flanniganwasboardingandlodgingthemattendollarsaweekapiece，andtheywerecheerfullygivingtheirnotesforit。Theywereperfectlysatisfied，butBridgetpresentlyfoundthatnotesthatcouldnotbediscountedwerebutafeebleconstitutionforaCarsonboarding-

house。SoshebegantoharrytheGovernortofindemploymentforthe“Brigade。”Herimportunitiesandtheirstogetherdrovehimtoagentledesperationatlast，andhefinallysummonedtheBrigadetothepresence。

Then，saidhe:

“Gentlemen，Ihaveplannedalucrativeandusefulserviceforyou——aservicewhichwillprovideyouwithrecreationamidnoblelandscapes，andaffordyouneverceasingopportunitiesforenrichingyourmindsbyobservationandstudy。IwantyoutosurveyarailroadfromCarsonCitywestwardtoacertainpoint！WhenthelegislaturemeetsIwillhavethenecessarybillpassedandtheremunerationarranged。”

“What，arailroadovertheSierraNevadaMountains?“

“Well，then，surveyiteastwardtoacertainpoint！“

Heconvertedthemintosurveyors，chain-bearersandsoon，andturnedthemlooseinthedesert。Itwas“recreation“withavengeance！

Recreationonfoot，luggingchainsthroughsandandsage-brush，underasultrysunandamongcattlebones，cayotesandtarantulas。

“Romanticadventure“couldgonofurther。Theysurveyedveryslowly，verydeliberately，verycarefully。Theyreturnedeverynightduringthefirstweek，dusty，footsore，tired，andhungry，butveryjolly。Theybroughtingreatstoreofprodigioushairyspiders——tarantulas——andimprisonedthemincoveredtumblersupstairsinthe“ranch。”Afterthefirstweek，theyhadtocamponthefield，fortheyweregettingwelleastward。Theymadeagoodmanyinquiriesastothelocationofthatindefinite“certainpoint，“butgotnoinformation。Atlast，toapeculiarlyurgentinquiryof“Howfareastward?“GovernorNyetelegraphedback:

“TotheAtlanticOcean，blastyou！——andthenbridgeitandgoon！“

Thisbroughtbackthedustytoilers，whosentinareportandceasedfromtheirlabors。TheGovernorwasalwayscomfortableaboutit；hesaidMrs。

O"FlanniganwouldholdhimfortheBrigade"sboardanyhow，andheintendedtogetwhatentertainmenthecouldoutoftheboys；hesaid，withhisold-timepleasanttwinkle，thathemeanttosurveythemintoUtahandthentelegraphBrighamtohangthemfortrespass！

Thesurveyorsbroughtbackmoretarantulaswiththem，andsowehadquiteamenageriearrangedalongtheshelvesoftheroom。Someofthesespiderscouldstraddleoveracommonsaucerwiththeirhairy，muscularlegs，andwhentheirfeelingswerehurt，ortheirdignityoffended，theywerethewickedest-lookingdesperadoestheanimalworldcanfurnish。

Iftheirglassprison-housesweretouchedeversolightlytheywereupandspoilingforafightinaminute。Starchy?——proud?Indeed，theywouldtakeupastrawandpicktheirteethlikeamemberofCongress。

Therewasasusualafurious“zephyr“blowingthefirstnightofthebrigade"sreturn，andaboutmidnighttheroofofanadjoiningstableblewoff，andacornerofitcamecrashingthroughthesideofourranch。

Therewasasimultaneousawakening，andatumultuousmusterofthebrigadeinthedark，andageneraltumblingandsprawlingovereachotherinthenarrowaislebetweenthebedrows。Inthemidstoftheturmoil，BobH——sprungupoutofasoundsleep，andknockeddownashelfwithhishead。Instantlyheshouted:

“Turnout，boys——thetarantulasisloose！“

Nowarningeversoundedsodreadful。Nobodytried，anylonger，toleavetheroom，lesthemightsteponatarantula。Everymangropedforatrunkorabed，andjumpedonit。Thenfollowedthestrangestsilence——asilenceofgrislysuspenseitwas，too——waiting，expectancy，fear。Itwasasdarkaspitch，andonehadtoimaginethespectacleofthosefourteenscant-cladmenroostinggingerlyontrunksandbeds，fornotathingcouldbeseen。Thencameoccasionallittleinterruptionsofthesilence，andonecouldrecognizeamanandtellhislocalitybyhisvoice，orlocateanyothersoundasufferermadebyhisgropingsorchangesofposition。Theoccasionalvoiceswerenotgiventomuchspeaking——yousimplyheardagentleejaculationof“Ow！“followedbyasolidthump，andyouknewthegentlemanhadfeltahairyblanketorsomethingtouchhisbareskinandhadskippedfromabedtothefloor。

Anothersilence。Presentlyyouwouldhearagaspingvoicesay:

“Su——su——something"scrawlingupthebackofmyneck！“

Everynowandthenyoucouldhearalittlesubduedscrambleandasorrowful“OLord！“andthenyouknewthatsomebodywasgettingawayfromsomethinghetookforatarantula，andnotlosinganytimeaboutit，either。Directlyavoiceinthecornerrangoutwildandclear:

“I"vegothim！I"vegothim！“[Pause，andprobablechangeofcircumstances。]“No，he"sgotme！Oh，ain"ttheynevergoingtofetchalantern！“

Thelanterncameatthatmoment，inthehandsofMrs。O"Flannigan，whoseanxietytoknowtheamountofdamagedonebytheassaultingroofhadnotpreventedherwaitingajudiciousinterval，aftergettingoutofbedandlightingup，toseeifthewindwasdone，now，upstairs，orhadalargercontract。

Thelandscapepresentedwhenthelanternflashedintotheroomwaspicturesque，andmighthavebeenfunnytosomepeople，butwasnottous。

Althoughwewereperchedsostrangelyuponboxes，trunksandbeds，andsostrangelyattired，too，weweretooearnestlydistressedandtoogenuinelymiserabletoseeanyfunaboutit，andtherewasnotthesemblanceofasmileanywherevisible。IknowIamnotcapableofsufferingmorethanIdidduringthosefewminutesofsuspenseinthedark，surroundedbythosecreeping，bloody-mindedtarantulas。Ihadskippedfrombedtobedandfromboxtoboxinacoldagony，andeverytimeItouchedanythingthatwasfurzyIfanciedIfeltthefangs。Ihadrathergotowarthanlivethatepisodeoveragain。Nobodywashurt。

Themanwhothoughtatarantulahad“gothim“wasmistaken——onlyacrackinaboxhadcaughthisfinger。Notoneofthoseescapedtarantulaswaseverseenagain。Thereweretenortwelveofthem。Wetookcandlesandhuntedtheplacehighandlowforthem，butwithnosuccess。Didwegobacktobedthen?Wedidnothingofthekind。Moneycouldnothavepersuadedustodoit。Wesatuptherestofthenightplayingcribbageandkeepingasharplookoutfortheenemy。

CHAPTERXXII。

ItwastheendofAugust，andtheskieswerecloudlessandtheweathersuperb。IntwoorthreeweeksIhadgrownwonderfullyfascinatedwiththecuriousnewcountryandconcludedtoputoffmyreturnto“theStates“awhile。Ihadgrownwellaccustomedtowearingadamagedslouchhat，bluewoolenshirt，andpantscrammedintoboot-tops，andgloriedintheabsenceofcoat，vestandbraces。Ifeltrowdyishand“bully，“(asthehistorianJosephusphrasesit，inhisfinechapteruponthedestructionoftheTemple)。Itseemedtomethatnothingcouldbesofineandsoromantic。Ihadbecomeanofficerofthegovernment，butthatwasformeresublimity。Theofficewasanuniquesinecure。Ihadnothingtodoandnosalary。IwasprivateSecretarytohismajestytheSecretaryandtherewasnotyetwritingenoughfortwoofus。SoJohnnyK——andIdevotedourtimetoamusement。HewastheyoungsonofanOhionabobandwasoutthereforrecreation。Hegotit。WehadheardaworldoftalkaboutthemarvellousbeautyofLakeTahoe，andfinallycuriositydroveusthithertoseeit。ThreeorfourmembersoftheBrigadehadbeenthereandlocatedsometimberlandsonitsshoresandstoredupaquantityofprovisionsintheircamp。Westrappedacoupleofblanketsonourshouldersandtookanaxeapieceandstarted——forweintendedtotakeupawoodranchorsoourselvesandbecomewealthy。

Wewereonfoot。Thereaderwillfinditadvantageoustogohorseback。

Weweretoldthatthedistancewaselevenmiles。Wetrampedalongtimeonlevelground，andthentoiledlaboriouslyupamountainaboutathousandmileshighandlookedover。Nolakethere。Wedescendedontheotherside，crossedthevalleyandtoiledupanothermountainthreeorfourthousandmileshigh，apparently，andlookedoveragain。Nolakeyet。Wesatdowntiredandperspiring，andhiredacoupleofChinamentocursethosepeoplewhohadbeguiledus。Thusrefreshed，wepresentlyresumedthemarchwithrenewedvigoranddetermination。Weploddedon，twoorthreehourslonger，andatlasttheLakeburstuponus——anoblesheetofbluewaterliftedsixthousandthreehundredfeetabovethelevelofthesea，andwalledinbyarimofsnow-cladmountainpeaksthattoweredaloftfullthreethousandfeethigherstill！Itwasavastoval，andonewouldhavetouseupeightyorahundredgoodmilesintravelingaroundit。AsitlaytherewiththeshadowsofthemountainsbrilliantlyphotographeduponitsstillsurfaceIthoughtitmustsurelybethefairestpicturethewholeearthaffords。

WefoundthesmallskiffbelongingtotheBrigadeboys，andwithoutlossoftimesetoutacrossadeepbendofthelaketowardthelandmarksthatsignifiedthelocalityofthecamp。IgotJohnnytorow——notbecauseI

mindexertionmyself，butbecauseitmakesmesicktoridebackwardswhenIamatwork。ButIsteered。Athree-milepullbroughtustothecampjustasthenightfell，andwesteppedashoreverytiredandwolfishlyhungry。Ina“cache“amongtherockswefoundtheprovisionsandthecookingutensils，andthen，allfatiguedasIwas，IsatdownonaboulderandsuperintendedwhileJohnnygatheredwoodandcookedsupper。

ManyamanwhohadgonethroughwhatIhad，wouldhavewantedtorest。

Itwasadelicioussupper——hotbread，friedbacon，andblackcoffee。Itwasadelicioussolitudewewerein，too。Threemilesawaywasasaw-

millandsomeworkmen，buttherewerenotfifteenotherhumanbeingsthroughoutthewidecircumferenceofthelake。Asthedarknesscloseddownandthestarscameoutandspangledthegreatmirrorwithjewels，wesmokedmeditativelyinthesolemnhushandforgotourtroublesandourpains。Induetimewespreadourblanketsinthewarmsandbetweentwolargebouldersandsoonfeelasleep，carelessoftheprocessionofantsthatpassedinthroughrentsinourclothingandexploredourpersons。

Nothingcoulddisturbthesleepthatfetteredus，forithadbeenfairlyearned，andifourconscienceshadanysinsonthemtheyhadtoadjourncourtforthatnight，anyway。Thewindrosejustaswewerelosingconsciousness，andwewerelulledtosleepbythebeatingofthesurfupontheshore。

Itisalwaysverycoldonthatlakeshoreinthenight，butwehadplentyofblanketsandwerewarmenough。Wenevermovedamuscleallnight，butwakedatearlydawnintheoriginalpositions，andgotupatonce，thoroughlyrefreshed，freefromsoreness，andbrimfulloffriskiness。

Thereisnoendofwholesomemedicineinsuchanexperience。Thatmorningwecouldhavewhippedtensuchpeopleaswewerethedaybefore——

sickonesatanyrate。Buttheworldisslow，andpeoplewillgoto“watercures“and“movementcures“andtoforeignlandsforhealth。

ThreemonthsofcamplifeonLakeTahoewouldrestoreanEgyptianmummytohispristinevigor，andgivehimanappetitelikeanalligator。Idonotmeantheoldestanddriestmummies，ofcourse，butthefresherones。

Theairupthereinthecloudsisverypureandfine，bracinganddelicious。Andwhyshouldn"titbe?——itisthesametheangelsbreathe。

Ithinkthathardlyanyamountoffatiguecanbegatheredtogetherthatamancannotsleepoffinonenightonthesandbyitsside。Notunderaroof，butunderthesky；itseldomorneverrainsthereinthesummertime。Iknowamanwhowenttheretodie。Buthemadeafailureofit。

Hewasaskeletonwhenhecame，andcouldbarelystand。Hehadnoappetite，anddidnothingbutreadtractsandreflectonthefuture。

Threemonthslaterhewassleepingoutofdoorsregularly，eatingallhecouldhold，threetimesaday，andchasinggameovermountainsthreethousandfeethighforrecreation。Andhewasaskeletonnolonger，butweighedpartofaton。Thisisnofancysketch，butthetruth。Hisdiseasewasconsumption。Iconfidentlycommendhisexperiencetootherskeletons。

Isuperintendedagain，andassoonaswehadeatenbreakfastwegotintheboatandskirtedalongthelakeshoreaboutthreemilesanddisembarked。Welikedtheappearanceoftheplace，andsoweclaimedsomethreehundredacresofitandstuckour“notices“onatree。Itwasyellowpinetimberland——adenseforestoftreesahundredfeethighandfromonetofivefeetthroughatthebutt。Itwasnecessarytofenceourpropertyorwecouldnotholdit。Thatistosay，itwasnecessarytocutdowntreeshereandthereandmakethemfallinsuchawayastoformasortofenclosure(withprettywidegapsinit)。Wecutdownthreetreesapiece，andfounditsuchheart-breakingworkthatwedecidedto“restourcase“onthose；iftheyheldtheproperty，wellandgood；iftheydidn"t，letthepropertyspilloutthroughthegapsandgo；itwasnousetoworkourselvestodeathmerelytosaveafewacresofland。

Nextdaywecamebacktobuildahouse——forahousewasalsonecessary，inordertoholdtheproperty。Wedecidedtobuildasubstantiallog-

houseandexcitetheenvyoftheBrigadeboys；butbythetimewehadcutandtrimmedthefirstlogitseemedunnecessarytobesoelaborate，andsoweconcludedtobuilditofsaplings。However，twosaplings，dulycutandtrimmed，compelledrecognitionofthefactthatastillmodesterarchitecturewouldsatisfythelaw，andsoweconcludedtobuilda“brush“house。Wedevotedthenextdaytothiswork，butwedidsomuch“sittingaround“anddiscussing，thatbythemiddleoftheafternoonwehadachievedonlyahalf-waysortofaffairwhichoneofushadtowatchwhiletheothercutbrush，lestifbothturnedourbackswemightnotbeabletofinditagain，ithadsuchastrongfamilyresemblancetothesurroundingvegetation。Butweweresatisfiedwithit。

Wewerelandownersnow，dulyseizedandpossessed，andwithintheprotectionofthelaw。Thereforewedecidedtotakeupourresidenceonourowndomainandenjoythatlargesenseofindependencewhichonlysuchanexperiencecanbring。Latethenextafternoon，afteragoodlongrest，wesailedawayfromtheBrigadecampwithalltheprovisionsandcookingutensilswecouldcarryoff——borrowisthemoreaccurateword——

andjustasthenightwasfallingwebeachedtheboatatourownlanding。

CHAPTERXXIII。

Ifthereisanylifethatishappierthanthelifeweledonourtimberranchforthenexttwoorthreeweeks，itmustbeasortoflifewhichI

havenotreadofinbooksorexperiencedinperson。Wedidnotseeahumanbeingbutourselvesduringthetime，orhearanysoundsbutthosethatweremadebythewindandthewaves，thesighingofthepines，andnowandthenthefar-offthunderofanavalanche。Theforestaboutuswasdenseandcool，theskyaboveuswascloudlessandbrilliantwithsunshine，thebroadlakebeforeuswasglassyandclear，orrippledandbreezy，orblackandstorm-tossed，accordingtoNature"smood；anditscirclingborderofmountaindomes，clothedwithforests，scarredwithland-slides，clovenbycanonsandvalleys，andhelmetedwithglitteringsnow，fitlyframedandfinishedthenoblepicture。Theviewwasalwaysfascinating，bewitching，entrancing。Theeyewasnevertiredofgazing，nightorday，incalmorstorm；itsufferedbutonegrief，andthatwasthatitcouldnotlookalways，butmustclosesometimesinsleep。

Wesleptinthesandclosetothewater"sedge，betweentwoprotectingboulders，whichtookcareofthestormynight-windsforus。Wenevertookanyparegorictomakeussleep。Atthefirstbreakofdawnwewerealwaysupandrunningfoot-racestotonedownexcessofphysicalvigorandexuberanceofspirits。Thatis，Johnnywas——butIheldhishat。

Whilesmokingthepipeofpeaceafterbreakfastwewatchedthesentinelpeaksputonthegloryofthesun，andfollowedtheconqueringlightasitsweptdownamongtheshadows，andsetthecaptivecragsandforestsfree。Wewatchedthetintedpicturesgrowandbrightenuponthewatertilleverylittledetailofforest，precipiceandpinnaclewaswroughtinandfinished，andthemiracleoftheenchantercomplete。Thento“business。”

Thatis，driftingaroundintheboat。Wewereonthenorthshore。

There，therocksonthebottomaresometimesgray，sometimeswhite。

Thisgivesthemarveloustransparencyofthewaterafulleradvantagethanithaselsewhereonthelake。Weusuallypushedoutahundredyardsorsofromshore，andthenlaydownonthethwarts，inthesun，andlettheboatdriftbythehourwhitheritwould。Weseldomtalked。

ItinterruptedtheSabbathstillness，andmarredthedreamstheluxuriousrestandindolencebrought。Theshoreallalongwasindentedwithdeep，curvedbaysandcoves，borderedbynarrowsand-beaches；andwherethesandended，thesteepmountain-sidesroserightupaloftintospace——roseuplikeavastwallalittleoutoftheperpendicular，andthicklywoodedwithtallpines。

Sosingularlyclearwasthewater，thatwhereitwasonlytwentyorthirtyfeetdeepthebottomwassoperfectlydistinctthattheboatseemedfloatingintheair！Yes，whereitwaseveneightyfeetdeep。

Everylittlepebblewasdistinct，everyspeckledtrout，everyhand"s-

breadthofsand。Often，aswelayonourfaces，agraniteboulder，aslargeasavillagechurch，wouldstartoutofthebottomapparently，andseemclimbinguprapidlytothesurface，tillpresentlyitthreatenedtotouchourfaces，andwecouldnotresisttheimpulsetoseizeanoarandavertthedanger。Buttheboatwouldfloaton，andtheboulderdescendagain，andthenwecouldseethatwhenwehadbeenexactlyaboveit，itmuststillhavebeentwentyorthirtyfeetbelowthesurface。Downthroughthetransparencyofthesegreatdepths，thewaterwasnotmerelytransparent，butdazzlingly，brilliantlyso。Allobjectsseenthroughithadabright，strongvividness，notonlyofoutline，butofeveryminutedetail，whichtheywouldnothavehadwhenseensimplythroughthesamedepthofatmosphere。Soemptyandairydidallspacesseembelowus，andsostrongwasthesenseoffloatinghighaloftinmid-nothingness，thatwecalledtheseboat-excursions“balloon-voyages。”

Wefishedagooddeal，butwedidnotaverageonefishaweek。Wecouldseetroutbythethousandwingingaboutintheemptinessunderus，orsleepinginshoalsonthebottom，buttheywouldnotbite——theycouldseethelinetooplainly，perhaps。Wefrequentlyselectedthetroutwewanted，andrestedthebaitpatientlyandpersistentlyontheendofhisnoseatadepthofeightyfeet，buthewouldonlyshakeitoffwithanannoyedmanner，andshifthisposition。

Webathedoccasionally，butthewaterwasratherchilly，forallitlookedsosunny。Sometimeswerowedouttothe“bluewater，“amileortwofromshore。Itwasasdeadblueasindigothere，becauseoftheimmensedepth。Byofficialmeasurementthelakeinitscentreisonethousandfivehundredandtwenty-fivefeetdeep！

Sometimes，onlazyafternoons，welolledonthesandincamp，andsmokedpipesandreadsomeoldwell-wornnovels。Atnight，bythecamp-fire，weplayedeuchreandseven-uptostrengthenthemind——andplayedthemwithcardssogreasyanddefacedthatonlyawholesummer"sacquaintancewiththemcouldenablethestudenttotelltheaceofclubsfromthejackofdiamonds。

Weneversleptinour“house。”Itneverrecurredtous，foronething；

andbesides，itwasbuilttoholdtheground，andthatwasenough。Wedidnotwishtostrainit。

Byandbyourprovisionsbegantorunshort，andwewentbacktotheoldcampandlaidinanewsupply。Weweregoneallday，andreachedhomeagainaboutnight-fall，prettytiredandhungry。WhileJohnnywascarryingthemainbulkoftheprovisionsuptoour“house“forfutureuse，Itooktheloafofbread，someslicesofbacon，andthecoffee-pot，ashore，setthemdownbyatree，litafire，andwentbacktotheboattogetthefrying-pan。WhileIwasatthis，IheardashoutfromJohnny，andlookingupIsawthatmyfirewasgallopingalloverthepremises！

Johnnywasontheothersideofit。Hehadtorunthroughtheflamestogettothelakeshore，andthenwestoodhelplessandwatchedthedevastation。

Thegroundwasdeeplycarpetedwithdrypine-needles，andthefiretouchedthemoffasiftheyweregunpowder。Itwaswonderfultoseewithwhatfiercespeedthetallsheetofflametraveled！Mycoffee-potwasgone，andeverythingwithit。Inaminuteandahalfthefireseizeduponadensegrowthofdrymanzanitachapparalsixoreightfeethigh，andthentheroaringandpoppingandcracklingwassomethingterrific。

Weweredriventotheboatbytheintenseheat，andthereweremained，spell-bound。

Withinhalfanhourallbeforeuswasatossing，blindingtempestofflame！Itwentsurgingupadjacentridges——surmountedthemanddisappearedinthecanonsbeyond——burstintoviewuponhigherandfartherridges，presently——shedagranderilluminationabroad，anddoveagain——

flamedoutagain，directly，higherandstillhigherupthemountain-side——

threwoutskirmishingpartiesoffirehereandthere，andsentthemtrailingtheircrimsonspiralsawayamongremoterampartsandribsandgorges，tillasfarastheeyecouldreachtheloftymountain-frontswerewebbedasitwerewithatanglednetworkofredlavastreams。Awayacrossthewaterthecragsanddomeswerelitwitharuddyglare，andthefirmamentabovewasareflectedhell！

Everyfeatureofthespectaclewasrepeatedintheglowingmirrorofthelake！Bothpicturesweresublime，bothwerebeautiful；butthatinthelakehadabewilderingrichnessaboutitthatenchantedtheeyeandhelditwiththestrongerfascination。

Wesatabsorbedandmotionlessthroughfourlonghours。Weneverthoughtofsupper，andneverfeltfatigue。Butateleveno"clocktheconflagrationhadtraveledbeyondourrangeofvision，andthendarknessstoledownuponthelandscapeagain。

Hungerasserteditselfnow，buttherewasnothingtoeat。Theprovisionswereallcooked，nodoubt，butwedidnotgotosee。Wewerehomelesswanderersagain，withoutanyproperty。Ourfencewasgone，ourhouseburneddown；noinsurance。Ourpineforestwaswellscorched，thedeadtreesallburnedup，andourbroadacresofmanzanitasweptaway。Ourblanketswereonourusualsand-bed，however，andsowelaydownandwenttosleep。Thenextmorningwestartedbacktotheoldcamp，butwhileoutalongwayfromshore，sogreatastormcameupthatwedarednottrytoland。SoIbaledouttheseasweshipped，andJohnnypulledheavilythroughthebillowstillwehadreachedapointthreeorfourmilesbeyondthecamp。Thestormwasincreasing，anditbecameevidentthatitwasbettertotakethehazardofbeachingtheboatthangodowninahundredfathomsofwater；soweranin，withtallwhite-capsfollowing，andIsatdowninthestern-sheetsandpointedherhead-ontotheshore。

Theinstantthebowstruck，awavecameoverthesternthatwashedcrewandcargoashore，andsavedadealoftrouble。Weshiveredintheleeofaboulderalltherestoftheday，andfrozeallthenightthrough。Inthemorningthetempesthadgonedown，andwepaddleddowntothecampwithoutanyunnecessarydelay。WeweresostarvedthatweateuptherestoftheBrigade"sprovisions，andthensetouttoCarsontotellthemaboutitandasktheirforgiveness。Itwasaccorded，uponpaymentofdamages。

Wemademanytripstothelakeafterthat，andhadmanyahair-breadthescapeandblood-curdlingadventurewhichwillneverberecordedinanyhistory。

CHAPTERXXIV。

Iresolvedtohaveahorsetoride。Ihadneverseensuchwild，free，magnificenthorsemanshipoutsideofacircusasthesepicturesquely-cladMexicans，CaliforniansandMexicanizedAmericansdisplayedinCarsonstreetseveryday。Howtheyrode！Leaningjustgentlyforwardoutoftheperpendicular，easyandnonchalant，withbroadslouch-hatbrimblownsquareupinfront，andlongriataswingingabovethehead，theysweptthroughthetownlikethewind！Thenextminutetheywereonlyasailingpuffofdustonthefardesert。Iftheytrotted，theysatupgallantlyandgracefully，andseemedpartofthehorse；didnotgojiggeringupanddownafterthesillyMiss-Nancyfashionoftheriding-schools。Ihadquicklylearnedtotellahorsefromacow，andwasfullofanxietytolearnmore。Iwasresolvedtobuyahorse。

Whilethethoughtwasranklinginmymind，theauctioneercameskurryingthroughtheplazaonablackbeastthathadasmanyhumpsandcornersonhimasadromedary，andwasnecessarilyuncomely；buthewas“going，going，attwenty-two！——horse，saddleandbridleattwenty-twodollars，gentlemen！“andIcouldhardlyresist。

AmanwhomIdidnotknow(heturnedouttobetheauctioneer"sbrother)

noticedthewistfullookinmyeye，andobservedthatthatwasaveryremarkablehorsetobegoingatsuchaprice；andaddedthatthesaddlealonewasworththemoney。ItwasaSpanishsaddle，withponderous"tapidaros"，andfurnishedwiththeungainlysole-leathercoveringwiththeunspellablename。IsaidIhadhalfanotiontobid。Thenthiskeen-eyedpersonappearedtometobe“takingmymeasure“；butI

dismissedthesuspicionwhenhespoke，forhismannerwasfullofguilelesscandorandtruthfulness。Saidhe:

“Iknowthathorse——knowhimwell。Youareastranger，Itakeit，andsoyoumightthinkhewasanAmericanhorse，maybe，butIassureyouheisnot。Heisnothingofthekind；but——excusemyspeakinginalowvoice，otherpeoplebeingnear——heis，withouttheshadowofadoubt，aGenuineMexicanPlug！“

IdidnotknowwhataGenuineMexicanPlugwas，buttherewassomethingaboutthisman"swayofsayingit，thatmademeswearinwardlythatI

wouldownaGenuineMexicanPlug，ordie。

“Hasheanyother——er——advantages?“Iinquired，suppressingwhateagernessIcould。

Hehookedhisforefingerinthepocketofmyarmy-shirt，ledmetooneside，andbreathedinmyearimpressivelythesewords:

“Hecanout-buckanythinginAmerica！“

“Going，going，going——attwent——ty——fourdollarsandahalf，gen——“

“Twenty-seven！“Ishouted，inafrenzy。

“Andsold！“saidtheauctioneer，andpassedovertheGenuineMexicanPlugtome。

Icouldscarcelycontainmyexultation。Ipaidthemoney，andputtheanimalinaneighboringlivery-stabletodineandresthimself。

IntheafternoonIbroughtthecreatureintotheplaza，andcertaincitizensheldhimbythehead，andothersbythetail，whileImountedhim。Assoonastheyletgo，heplacedallhisfeetinabunchtogether，loweredhisback，andthensuddenlyarcheditupward，andshotmestraightintotheairamatterofthreeorfourfeet！Icameasstraightdownagain，litinthesaddle，wentinstantlyupagain，camedownalmostonthehighpommel，shotupagain，andcamedownonthehorse"sneck——allinthespaceofthreeorfourseconds。Thenheroseandstoodalmoststraightuponhishindfeet，andI，claspinghisleanneckdesperately，slidbackintothesaddleandheldon。Hecamedown，andimmediatelyhoistedhisheelsintotheair，deliveringaviciouskickatthesky，andstoodonhisforefeet。Andthendownhecameoncemore，andbegantheoriginalexerciseofshootingmestraightupagain。ThethirdtimeI

wentupIheardastrangersay:

“Oh，don"thebuck，though！“

WhileIwasup，somebodystruckthehorseasoundingthwackwithaleathernstrap，andwhenIarrivedagaintheGenuineMexicanPlugwasnotthere。ACaliforniayouthchasedhimupandcaughthim，andaskedifhemighthavearide。Igrantedhimthatluxury。HemountedtheGenuine，gotliftedintotheaironce，butsenthisspurshomeashedescended，andthehorsedartedawaylikeatelegram。Hesoaredoverthreefenceslikeabird，anddisappeareddowntheroadtowardtheWashoeValley。

Isatdownonastone，withasigh，andbyanaturalimpulseoneofmyhandssoughtmyforehead，andtheotherthebaseofmystomach。I

believeIneverappreciated，tillthen，thepovertyofthehumanmachinery——forIstillneededahandortwotoplaceelsewhere。PencannotdescribehowIwasjoltedup。ImaginationcannotconceivehowdisjointedIwas——howinternally，externallyanduniversallyIwasunsettled，mixedupandruptured。Therewasasympatheticcrowdaroundme，though。

Oneelderly-lookingcomfortersaid:

“Stranger，you"vebeentakenin。Everybodyinthiscampknowsthathorse。Anychild，anyInjun，couldhavetoldyouthathe"dbuck；heistheveryworstdeviltobuckonthecontinentofAmerica。Youhearme。

I"mCurry。OldCurry。OldAbeCurry。Andmoreover，heisasimon-pure，out-and-out，genuined——dMexicanplug，andanuncommonmeanoneatthat，too。Why，youturnip，ifyouhadlaidlowandkeptdark，there"schancestobuyanAmericanhorseformightylittlemorethanyoupaidforthatbloodyoldforeignrelic。”

Igavenosign；butImadeupmymindthatiftheauctioneer"sbrother"sfuneraltookplacewhileIwasintheTerritoryIwouldpostponeallotherrecreationsandattendit。

AfteragallopofsixteenmilestheCalifornianyouthandtheGenuineMexicanPlugcametearingintotownagain，sheddingfoam-flakeslikethespume-spraythatdrivesbeforeatyphoon，and，withonefinalskipoverawheelbarrowandaChinaman，castanchorinfrontofthe“ranch。”

Suchpantingandblowing！Suchspreadingandcontractingoftheredequinenostrils，andglaringofthewildequineeye！Butwastheimperialbeastsubjugated?Indeedhewasnot。

HislordshiptheSpeakeroftheHousethoughthewas，andmountedhimtogodowntotheCapitol；butthefirstdashthecreaturemadewasoverapileoftelegraphpoleshalfashighasachurch；andhistimetotheCapitol——onemileandthreequarters——remainsunbeatentothisday。Butthenhetookanadvantage——heleftoutthemile，andonlydidthethreequarters。Thatistosay，hemadeastraightcutacrosslots，preferringfencesandditchestoacrookedroad；andwhentheSpeakergottotheCapitolhesaidhehadbeenintheairsomuchhefeltasifhehadmadethetriponacomet。

IntheeveningtheSpeakercamehomeafootforexercise，andgottheGenuinetowedbackbehindaquartzwagon。ThenextdayIloanedtheanimaltotheClerkoftheHousetogodowntotheDanasilvermine，sixmiles，andhewalkedbackforexercise，andgotthehorsetowed。

EverybodyIloanedhimtoalwayswalkedback；theynevercouldgetenoughexerciseanyotherway。

Still，Icontinuedtoloanhimtoanybodywhowaswillingtoborrowhim，myideabeingtogethimcrippled，andthrowhimontheborrower"shands，orkilled，andmaketheborrowerpayforhim。Butsomehownothingeverhappenedtohim。Hetookchancesthatnootherhorseevertookandsurvived，buthealwayscameoutsafe。Itwashisdailyhabittotryexperimentsthathadalwaysbeforebeenconsideredimpossible，buthealwaysgotthrough。Sometimeshemiscalculatedalittle，anddidnotgethisriderthroughintact，buthealwaysgotthroughhimself。OfcourseI

hadtriedtosellhim；butthatwasastretchofsimplicitywhichmetwithlittlesympathy。Theauctioneerstormedupanddownthestreetsonhimforfourdays，dispersingthepopulace，interruptingbusiness，anddestroyingchildren，andnevergotabid——atleastneveranybuttheeighteen-dollaronehehiredanotoriouslysubstancelessbummertomake。

Thepeopleonlysmiledpleasantly，andrestrainedtheirdesiretobuy，iftheyhadany。Thentheauctioneerbroughtinhisbill，andIwithdrewthehorsefromthemarket。Wetriedtotradehimoffatprivatevenduenext，offeringhimatasacrificeforsecond-handtombstones，oldiron，temperancetracts——anykindofproperty。Butholderswerestiff，andweretiredfromthemarketagain。Inevertriedtoridethehorseanymore。

Walkingwasgoodenoughexerciseforamanlikeme，thathadnothingthematterwithhimexceptruptures，internalinjuries，andsuchthings。

FinallyItriedtogivehimaway。Butitwasafailure。PartiessaidearthquakeswerehandyenoughonthePacificcoast——theydidnotwishtoownone。AsalastresortIofferedhimtotheGovernorfortheuseofthe“Brigade。”Hisfacelitupeagerlyatfirst，buttoneddownagain，andhesaidthethingwouldbetoopalpable。

Justthentheliverystablemanbroughtinhisbillforsixweeks"

keeping——stall-roomforthehorse，fifteendollars；hayforthehorse，twohundredandfifty！TheGenuineMexicanPlughadeatenatonofthearticle，andthemansaidhewouldhaveeatenahundredifhehadlethim。

Iwillremarkhere，inallseriousness，thattheregularpriceofhayduringthatyearandapartofthenextwasreallytwohundredandfiftydollarsaton。Duringapartofthepreviousyearithadsoldatfivehundredaton，ingold，andduringthewinterbeforethattherewassuchscarcityofthearticlethatinseveralinstancessmallquantitieshadbroughteighthundreddollarsatonincoin！Theconsequencemightbeguessedwithoutmytellingit:peopledturnedtheirstockloosetostarve，andbeforethespringarrivedCarsonandEaglevalleyswerealmostliterallycarpetedwiththeircarcases！Anyoldsettlertherewillverifythesestatements。

Imanagedtopaytheliverybill，andthatsamedayIgavetheGenuineMexicanPlugtoapassingArkansasemigrantwhomfortunedeliveredintomyhand。Ifthisevermeetshiseye，hewilldoubtlessrememberthedonation。

NowwhoeverhashadthelucktoridearealMexicanplugwillrecognizetheanimaldepictedinthischapter，andhardlyconsiderhimexaggerated——buttheuninitiatedwillfeeljustifiedinregardinghisportraitasafancysketch，perhaps。

CHAPTERXXV。

Originally，NevadawasapartofUtahandwascalledCarsoncounty；andaprettylargecountyitwas，too。Certainofitsvalleysproducednoendofhay，andthisattractedsmallcoloniesofMormonstock-raisersandfarmerstothem。AfeworthodoxAmericansstraggledinfromCalifornia，butnolovewaslostbetweenthetwoclassesofcolonists。Therewaslittleornofriendlyintercourse；eachpartystaidtoitself。TheMormonswerelargelyinthemajority，andhadtheadditionaladvantageofbeingpeculiarlyundertheprotectionoftheMormongovernmentoftheTerritory。Thereforetheycouldaffordtobedistant，andevenperemptorytowardtheirneighbors。OneofthetraditionsofCarsonValleyillustratestheconditionofthingsthatprevailedatthetimeI

speakof。ThehiredgirlofoneoftheAmericanfamilieswasIrish，andaCatholic；yetitwasnotedwithsurprisethatshewastheonlypersonoutsideoftheMormonringwhocouldgetfavorsfromtheMormons。Sheaskedkindnessesofthemoften，andalwaysgotthem。Itwasamysterytoeverybody。Butonedayasshewaspassingoutatthedoor，alargebowieknifedroppedfromunderherapron，andwhenhermistressaskedforanexplanationsheobservedthatshewasgoingoutto“borryawash-tubfromtheMormons！“

In1858silverlodeswerediscoveredin“CarsonCounty，“andthentheaspectofthingschanged。Californiansbegantoflockin，andtheAmericanelementwassooninthemajority。AllegiancetoBrighamYoungandUtahwasrenounced，andatemporaryterritorialgovernmentfor“Washoe“wasinstitutedbythecitizens。GovernorRoopwasthefirstandonlychiefmagistrateofit。InduecourseoftimeCongresspassedabilltoorganize“NevadaTerritory，“andPresidentLincolnsentoutGovernorNyetosupplantRoop。

AtthistimethepopulationoftheTerritorywasabouttwelveorfifteenthousand，andrapidlyincreasing。Silvermineswerebeingvigorouslydevelopedandsilvermillserected。Businessofallkindswasactiveandprosperousandgrowingmoresodaybyday。