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Roughing It
投诉 阅读记录

第12章

Inoneplacewecameuponalargecompanyofnakednatives,ofbothsexesandallages,amusingthemselveswiththenationalpastimeofsurf-

bathing。Eachheathenwouldpaddlethreeorfourhundredyardsouttosea,(takingashortboardwithhim),thenfacetheshoreandwaitforaparticularlyprodigiousbillowtocomealong;attherightmomenthewouldflinghisboarduponitsfoamycrestandhimselfupontheboard,andherehewouldcomewhizzingbylikeabombshell!Itdidnotseemthatalightningexpresstraincouldshootalongatamorehair-liftingspeed。Itriedsurf-bathingonce,subsequently,butmadeafailureofit。Igottheboardplacedright,andattherightmoment,too;butmissedtheconnectionmyself——Theboardstrucktheshoreinthreequartersofasecond,withoutanycargo,andIstruckthebottomaboutthesametime,withacoupleofbarrelsofwaterinme。Nonebutnativesevermastertheartofsurf-bathingthoroughly。

Attheendofanhour,wehadmadethefourmiles,andlandedonalevelpointofland,uponwhichwasawideextentofoldruins,withmanyatallcocoanuttreegrowingamongthem。HerewastheancientCityofRefuge——avastinclosure,whosestonewallsweretwentyfeetthickatthebase,andfifteenfeethigh;anoblongsquare,athousandandfortyfeetonewayandafractionundersevenhundredtheother。Withinthisinclosure,inearlytimes,hasbeenthreerudetemples;eachtwohundredandtenfeetlongbyonehundredwide,andthirteenhigh。

Inthosedays,ifamankilledanotheranywhereontheislandtherelativeswereprivilegedtotakethemurderer"slife;andthenachaseforlifeandlibertybegan——theoutlawedcriminalflyingthroughpathlessforestsandovermountainandplain,withhishopesfixedupontheprotectingwallsoftheCityofRefuge,andtheavengerofbloodfollowinghotlyafterhim!

Sometimestheracewaskeptuptotheverygatesofthetemple,andthepantingpairspedthroughlongfilesofexcitednatives,whowatchedthecontestwithflashingeyeanddilatednostril,encouragingthehuntedrefugeewithsharp,inspiritingejaculations,andsendinguparingingshoutofexultationwhenthesavinggatescloseduponhimandthecheatedpursuersankexhaustedatthethreshold。Butsometimestheflyingcriminalfellunderthehandoftheavengerattheverydoor,whenonemorebravestride,onemorebriefsecondoftimewouldhavebroughthisfeetuponthesacredgroundandbarredhimagainstallharm。WheredidtheseisolatedpagansgetthisideaofaCityofRefuge——thisancientOrientalcustom?

Thisoldsanctuarywassacredtoall——eventorebelsinarmsandinvadingarmies。Oncewithinitswalls,andconfessionmadetothepriestandabsolutionobtained,thewretchwithapriceuponhisheadcouldgoforthwithoutfearandwithoutdanger——hewastabu,andtoharmhimwasdeath。

Theroutedrebelsinthelostbattleforidolatryfledtothisplacetoclaimsanctuary,andmanywerethussaved。

Closetothecornerofthegreatinclosureisaroundstructureofstone,somesixoreightfeethigh,withaleveltopabouttenortwelveindiameter。Thiswastheplaceofexecution。Ahighpalisadeofcocoanutpilesshutoutthecruelscenesfromthevulgarmultitude。Herecriminalswerekilled,thefleshstrippedfromthebonesandburned,andthebonessecretedinholesinthebodyofthestructure。Ifthemanhadbeenguiltyofahighcrime,theentirecorpsewasburned。

Thewallsofthetempleareastudy。ThesamefoodforspeculationthatisofferedthevisitortothePyramidsofEgypthewillfindhere——themysteryofhowtheywereconstructedbyapeopleunacquaintedwithscienceandmechanics。Thenativeshavenoinventionoftheirownforhoistingheavyweights,theyhadnobeastsofburden,andtheyhaveneverevenshownanyknowledgeofthepropertiesofthelever。Yetsomeofthelavablocksquarriedout,broughtoverrough,brokenground,andbuiltintothiswall,sixorsevenfeetfromtheground,areofprodigioussizeandwouldweightons。Howdidtheytransportandhowraisethem?

Boththeinnerandoutersurfacesofthewallspresentasmoothfrontandareverycreditablespecimensofmasonry。Theblocksareofallmannerofshapesandsizes,butyetarefittedtogetherwiththeneatestexactness。Thegradualnarrowingofthewallfromthebaseupwardisaccuratelypreserved。

Nocementwasused,buttheedificeisfirmandcompactandiscapableofresistingstormanddecayforcenturies。Whobuiltthistemple,andhowwasitbuilt,andwhen,aremysteriesthatmayneverbeunraveled。

Outsideoftheseancientwallsliesasortofcoffin-shapedstoneelevenfeetfourincheslongandthreefeetsquareatthesmallend(itwouldweighafewthousandpounds),whichthehighchiefwhoheldswayoverthisdistrictmanycenturiesagobroughtthitheronhisshoulderonedaytouseasalounge!Thiscircumstanceisestablishedbythemostreliabletraditions。Heusedtoliedownonit,inhisindolentway,andkeepaneyeonhissubjectsatworkforhimandseethattherewasno“soldiering“done。Andnodoubttherewasnotanydonetospeakof,becausehewasamanofthatsortofbuildthatincitestoattentiontobusinessonthepartofanemployee。

Hewasfourteenorfifteenfeethigh。Whenhestretchedhimselfatfulllengthonhislounge,hislegshungdownovertheend,andwhenhesnoredhewokethedead。Thesefactsareallattestedbyirrefragabletradition。

Ontheothersideofthetempleisamonstrousseven-tonrock,elevenfeetlong,sevenfeetwideandthreefeetthick。Itisraisedafootorafootandahalfabovetheground,andrestsuponhalfadozenlittlestonypedestals。Thesameoldfourteen-footerbroughtitdownfromthemountain,merelyforfun(hehadhisownnotionsaboutfun),andproppeditupaswefinditnowandasothersmayfinditacenturyhence,foritwouldtakeascoreofhorsestobudgeitfromitsposition。TheysaythatfiftyorsixtyyearsagotheproudQueenKaahumanuusedtoflytothisrockforsafety,whenevershehadbeenmakingtroublewithherfiercehusband,andhideunderituntilhiswrathwasappeased。ButtheseKanakaswilllie,andthisstatementisoneoftheirablestefforts——forKaahumanuwassixfeethigh——shewasbulky——shewasbuiltlikeanox——andshecouldnomorehavesqueezedherselfunderthatrockthanshecouldhavepassedbetweenthecylindersofasugarmill。Whatcouldshegainbyit,evenifshesucceeded?Tobechasedandabusedbyasavagehusbandcouldnotbeotherwisethanhumiliatingtoherhighspirit,yetitcouldnevermakeherfeelsoflatasanhour"sreposeunderthatrockwould。

Wewalkedamileoveraraisedmacadamizedroadofuniformwidth;aroadpavedwithflatstonesandexhibitinginitseverydetailaconsiderabledegreeofengineeringskill。Somesaythatthatwiseoldpagan,KamehamehaIplannedandbuiltit,butotherssayitwasbuiltsolongbeforehistimethattheknowledgeofwhoconstructedithaspassedoutofthetraditions。Ineithercase,however,asthehandiworkofanuntaughtanddegradedraceitisathingofpleasinginterest。Thestonesarewornandsmooth,andpushedapartinplaces,sothattheroadhastheexactappearanceofthoseancientpavedhighwaysleadingoutofRomewhichoneseesinpictures。

Theobjectofourtrampwastovisitagreatnaturalcuriosityatthebaseofthefoothills——acongealedcascadeoflava。Someoldforgottenvolcaniceruptionsentitsbroadriveroffiredownthemountainsidehere,anditpoureddowninagreattorrentfromanoverhangingbluffsomefiftyfeethightothegroundbelow。Theflamingtorrentcooledinthewindsfromthesea,andremainsthereto-day,allseamed,andfrothedandrippledapetrifiedNiagara。Itisverypicturesque,andwithalsonaturalthatonemightalmostimagineitstillflowed。Asmallerstreamtrickledoverthecliffandbuiltupanisolatedpyramidaboutthirtyfeethigh,whichhasthesemblanceofamassoflargegnarledandknottedvinesandrootsandstemsintricatelytwistedandwoventogether。

Wepassedinbehindthecascadeandthepyramid,andfoundthebluffpiercedbyseveralcavernoustunnels,whosecrookedcourseswefollowedalongdistance。

TwoofthesewindingtunnelsstandasproofofNature"sminingabilities。

Theirfloorsarelevel,theyaresevenfeetwide,andtheirroofsaregentlyarched。Theirheightisnotuniform,however。Wepassedthroughoneahundredfeetlong,whichleadsthroughaspurofthehillandopensoutwellupinthesheerwallofaprecipicewhosefootrestsinthewavesofthesea。Itisacommodioustunnel,exceptthatthereareoccasionalplacesinitwhereonemuststooptopassunder。Theroofislava,ofcourse,andisthicklystuddedwithlittlelava-pointediciclesaninchlong,whichhardenedastheydripped。Theyprojectascloselytogetherastheironteethofacorn-sheller,andifonewillstandupstraightandwalkanydistancethere,hecangethishaircombedfreeofcharge。

CHAPTERLXXIV。

Wegotbacktotheschooneringoodtime,andthensaileddowntoKau,wherewedisembarkedandtookfinalleaveofthevessel。Nextdayweboughthorsesandbentourwayoverthesummer-cladmountain-terraces,towardthegreatvolcanoofKilauea(Ke-low-way-ah)。Wemadenearlyatwodays"journeyofit,butthatwasonaccountoflaziness。Towardsunsetonthesecondday,wereachedanelevationofsomefourthousandfeetabovesealevel,andaswepickedourcarefulwaythroughbillowywastesoflavalonggenerationsagostrickendeadandcoldintheclimaxofitstossingfury,webegantocomeuponsignsofthenearpresenceofthevolcano——signsinthenatureofraggedfissuresthatdischargedjetsofsulphurousvaporintotheair,hotfromthemoltenoceandowninthebowelsofthemountain。

Shortlythecratercameintoview。IhaveseenVesuviussince,butitwasameretoy,achild"svolcano,asoup-kettle,comparedtothis。

MountVesuviusisashapelyconethirty-sixhundredfeethigh;itscrateraninvertedconeonlythreehundredfeetdeep,andnotmorethanathousandfeetindiameter,ifasmuchasthat;itsfiresmeagre,modest,anddocile——Butherewasavast,perpendicular,walledcellar,ninehundredfeetdeepinsomeplaces,thirteenhundredinothers,level-

floored,andtenmilesincircumference!HerewasayawningpituponwhosefloorthearmiesofRussiacouldcamp,andhaveroomtospare。

Perchedupontheedgeofthecrater,attheoppositeendfromwherewestood,wasasmalllook-outhouse——saythreemilesaway。Itassistedus,bycomparison,tocomprehendandappreciatethegreatdepthofthebasin——itlookedlikeatinymartin-boxclingingattheeavesofacathedral。

Aftersomelittletimespentinrestingandlookingandciphering,wehurriedontothehotel。

BythepathitishalfamilefromtheVolcanoHousetothelookout-

house。Afteraheartysupperwewaiteduntilitwasthoroughlydarkandthenstartedtothecrater。Thefirstglanceinthatdirectionrevealedasceneofwildbeauty。Therewasaheavyfogoverthecrateranditwassplendidlyilluminatedbytheglarefromthefiresbelow。Theilluminationwastwomileswideandamilehigh,perhaps;andifyouever,onadarknightandatadistancebeheldthelightfromthirtyorfortyblocksofdistantbuildingsallonfireatonce,reflectedstronglyagainstover-hangingclouds,youcanformafairideaofwhatthislookedlike。

Acolossalcolumnofcloudtoweredtoagreatheightintheairimmediatelyabovethecrater,andtheouterswellofeveryoneofitsvastfoldswasdyedwitharichcrimsonluster,whichwassubduedtoapalerosetintinthedepressionsbetween。Itglowedlikeamuffledtorchandstretchedupwardtoadizzyheighttowardthezenith。I

thoughtitjustpossiblethatitslikehadnotbeenseensincethechildrenofIsraelwanderedontheirlongmarchthroughthedesertsomanycenturiesagooverapathilluminatedbythemysterious“pillaroffire。”AndIwassurethatInowhadavividconceptionofwhatthemajestic“pillaroffire“waslike,whichalmostamountedtoarevelation。

Arrivedatthelittlethatchedlookouthouse,werestedourelbowsontherailinginfrontandlookedabroadoverthewidecrateranddownoverthesheerprecipiceattheseethingfiresbeneathus。Theviewwasastartlingimprovementonmydaylightexperience。Iturnedtoseetheeffectonthebalanceofthecompanyandfoundthereddest-facedsetofmenIalmosteversaw。Inthestronglighteverycountenanceglowedlikered-hotiron,everyshoulderwassuffusedwithcrimsonandshadedrearwardintodingy,shapelessobscurity!Theplacebelowlookedliketheinfernalregionsandthesemenlikehalf-cooleddevilsjustcomeuponafurlough。

Iturnedmyeyesuponthevolcanoagain。The“cellar“wastolerablywelllightedup。Foramileandahalfinfrontofusandhalfamileoneitherside,theflooroftheabysswasmagnificentlyilluminated;beyondtheselimitsthemistshungdowntheirgauzycurtainsandcastadeceptivegloomoverallthatmadethetwinklingfiresintheremotecornersofthecraterseemcountlessleaguesremoved——madethemseemlikethecamp-firesofagreatarmyfaraway。Herewasroomfortheimaginationtowork!Youcouldimaginethoselightsthewidthofacontinentaway——andthathiddenundertheinterveningdarknesswerehills,andwindingrivers,andwearywastesofplainanddesert——andeventhenthetremendousvistastretchedon,andon,andon!——tothefiresandfarbeyond!Youcouldnotcompassit——itwastheideaofeternitymadetangible——andthelongestendofitmadevisibletothenakedeye!

Thegreaterpartofthevastfloorofthedesertunderuswasasblackasink,andapparentlysmoothandlevel;butoveramilesquareofitwasringedandstreakedandstripedwithathousandbranchingstreamsofliquidandgorgeouslybrilliantfire!ItlookedlikeacolossalrailroadmapoftheStateofMassachusettsdoneinchainlightningonamidnightsky。Imagineit——imagineacoal-blackskyshiveredintoatanglednet-

workofangryfire!

Hereandthereweregleamingholesahundredfeetindiameter,brokeninthedarkcrust,andinthemthemeltedlava——thecoloradazzlingwhitejusttingedwithyellow——wasboilingandsurgingfuriously;andfromtheseholesbranchednumberlessbrighttorrentsinmanydirections,likethespokesofawheel,andkeptatolerablystraightcourseforawhileandthensweptroundinhugerainbowcurves,ormadealongsuccessionofsharpworm-fenceangles,whichlookedpreciselylikethefiercestjaggedlightning。Thesestreamsmetotherstreams,andtheymingledwithandcrossedandrecrossedeachotherineveryconceivabledirection,likeskatetracksonapopularskatingground。Sometimesstreamstwentyorthirtyfeetwideflowedfromtheholestosomedistancewithoutdividing——andthroughtheopera-glasseswecouldseethattheyrandownsmall,steephillsandweregenuinecataractsoffire,whiteattheirsource,butsooncoolingandturningtotherichestred,grainedwithalternatelinesofblackandgold。Everynowandthenmassesofthedarkcrustbrokeawayandfloatedslowlydownthesestreamslikeraftsdownariver。

Occasionallythemoltenlavaflowingunderthesuperincumbentcrustbrokethrough——splitadazzlingstreak,fromfivehundredtoathousandfeetlong,likeasuddenflashoflightning,andthenacreafteracreofthecoldlavapartedintofragments,turnedupedgewiselikecakesoficewhenagreatriverbreaksup,plungeddownwardandwereswallowedinthecrimsoncauldron。Thenthewideexpanseofthe“thaw“maintainedaruddyglowforawhile,butshortlycooledandbecameblackandlevelagain。

Duringa“thaw,“everydismemberedcakewasmarkedbyaglitteringwhiteborderwhichwassuperblyshadedinwardbyauroraborealisrays,whichwereaflamingyellowwheretheyjoinedthewhiteborder,andfromthencetowardtheirpointstaperedintoglowingcrimson,thenintoarich,palecarmine,andfinallyintoafaintblushthathelditsownamomentandthendimmedandturnedblack。Someofthestreamspreferredtomingletogetherinatangleoffantasticcircles,andthentheylookedsomethingliketheconfusionofropesoneseesonaship"sdeckwhenshehasjusttakeninsailanddroppedanchor——providedonecanimaginethoseropesonfire。

Throughtheglasses,thelittlefountainsscatteredaboutlookedverybeautiful。Theyboiled,andcoughed,andspluttered,anddischargedspraysofstringyredfire——ofabouttheconsistencyofmush,forinstance——fromtentofifteenfeetintotheair,alongwithashowerofbrilliantwhitesparks——aquaintandunnaturalminglingofgoutsofbloodandsnow-flakes!

Wehadcirclesandserpentsandstreaksoflightningalltwinedandwreathedandtiedtogether,withoutabreakthroughoutanareamorethanamilesquare(thatamountofgroundwascovered,thoughitwasnotstrictly“square“),anditwaswithafeelingofplacidexultationthatwereflectedthatmanyyearshadelapsedsinceanyvisitorhadseensuchasplendiddisplay——sinceanyvisitorhadseenanythingmorethanthenowsnubbedandinsignificant“North“and“South“lakesinaction。WehadbeenreadingoldfilesofHawaiiannewspapersandthe“RecordBook“attheVolcanoHouse,andwereposted。

IcouldseetheNorthLakelyingoutontheblackfloorawayoffintheouteredgeofourpanorama,andknittedtoitbyaweb-workoflavastreams。Initsindividualcapacityitlookedverylittlemorerespectablethanaschoolhouseonfire。True,itwasaboutninehundredfeetlongandtwoorthreehundredwide,butthen,underthepresentcircumstances,itnecessarilyappearedratherinsignificant,andbesidesitwassodistantfromus。

Iforgottosaythatthenoisemadebythebubblinglavaisnotgreat,heardaswehearditfromourloftyperch。Itmakesthreedistinctsounds——arushing,ahissing,andacoughingorpuffingsound;andifyoustandonthebrinkandcloseyoureyesitisnotrickatalltoimaginethatyouaresweepingdownariveronalargelow-pressuresteamer,andthatyouhearthehissingofthesteamaboutherboilers,thepuffingfromherescape-pipesandthechurningrushofthewaterabaftherwheels。Thesmellofsulphurisstrong,butnotunpleasanttoasinner。

Weleftthelookouthouseatteno"clockinahalfcookedcondition,becauseoftheheatfromPele"sfurnaces,andwrappingupinblankets,forthenightwascold,wereturnedtoourHotel。

CHAPTERLXXV。

Thenextnightwasappointedforavisittothebottomofthecrater,forwedesiredtotraverseitsfloorandseethe“NorthLake“(offire)whichlaytwomilesaway,towardthefurtherwall。Afterdarkhalfadozenofussetout,withlanternsandnativeguides,andclimbeddownacrazy,thousand-footpathwayinacrevicefracturedinthecraterwall,andreachedthebottominsafety。

Theirruptionofthepreviouseveninghadspentitsforceandthefloorlookedblackandcold;butwhenweranoutuponitwefoundithotyet,tothefeet,anditwaslikewiserivenwithcreviceswhichrevealedtheunderlyingfiresgleamingvindictively。Aneighboringcauldronwasthreateningtooverflow,andthisaddedtothedubiousnessofthesituation。Sothenativeguidesrefusedtocontinuetheventure,andtheneverybodydesertedexceptastrangernamedMarlette。Hesaidhehadbeeninthecrateradozentimesindaylightandbelievedhecouldfindhiswaythroughitatnight。Hethoughtthatarunofthreehundredyardswouldcarryusoverthehottestpartofthefloorandleaveusourshoe-soles。Hispluckgavemeback-bone。Wetookonelanternandinstructedtheguidestohangtheothertotheroofofthelook-outhousetoserveasabeaconforusincasewegotlost,andthenthepartystartedbackuptheprecipiceandMarletteandImadeourrun。

Weskippedoverthehotfloorandovertheredcreviceswithbriskdispatchandreachedthecoldlavasafebutwithprettywarmfeet。Thenwetookthingsleisurelyandcomfortably,jumpingtolerablywideandprobablybottomlesschasms,andthreadingourwaythroughpicturesquelavaupheavalswithconsiderableconfidence。Whenwegotfairlyawayfromthecauldronsofboilingfire,weseemedtobeinagloomydesert,andasuffocatinglydarkone,surroundedbydimwallsthatseemedtotowertothesky。Theonlycheerfulobjectsweretheglintingstarshighoverhead。

ByandbyMarletteshouted“Stop!“Ineverstoppedquickerinmylife。

Iaskedwhatthematterwas。Hesaidwewereoutofthepath。Hesaidwemustnottrytogoontillwefounditagain,forweweresurroundedwithbedsofrottenlavathroughwhichwecouldeasilybreakandplungedownathousandfeet。Ithoughteighthundredwouldanswerforme,andwasabouttosaysowhenMarlettepartlyprovedhisstatementbyaccidentallycrushingthroughanddisappearingtohisarm-pits。

Hegotoutandwehuntedforthepathwiththelantern。Hesaidtherewasonlyonepathandthatitwasbutvaguelydefined。Wecouldnotfindit。Thelavasurfacewasallalikeinthelanternlight。Buthewasaningeniousman。Hesaiditwasnotthelanternthathadinformedhimthatwewereoutofthepath,buthisfeet。Hehadnoticedacrispgrindingoffinelava-needlesunderhisfeet,andsomeinstinctremindedhimthatinthepaththesewereallwornaway。Soheputthelanternbehindhim,andbegantosearchwithhisbootsinsteadofhiseyes。Itwasgoodsagacity。Thefirsttimehisfoottouchedasurfacethatdidnotgrindunderitheannouncedthatthetrailwasfoundagain;andafterthatwekeptupasharplisteningfortheraspingsoundanditalwayswarnedusintime。

Itwasalongtramp,butanexcitingone。WereachedtheNorthLakebetweentenandeleveno"clock,andsatdownonahugeoverhanginglava-

shelf,tiredbutsatisfied。Thespectaclepresentedwasworthcomingdoublethedistancetosee。Underus,andstretchingawaybeforeus,wasaheavingseaofmoltenfireofseeminglylimitlessextent。Theglarefromitwassoblindingthatitwassometimebeforewecouldbeartolookuponitsteadily。

Itwaslikegazingatthesunatnoon-day,exceptthattheglarewasnotquitesowhite。Atunequaldistancesallaroundtheshoresofthelakewerenearlywhite-hotchimneysorhollowdrumsoflava,fourorfivefeethigh,andupthroughthemwereburstinggorgeousspraysoflava-goutsandgemspangles,somewhite,someredandsomegolden——aceaselessbombardment,andonethatfascinatedtheeyewithitsunapproachablesplendor。Themeredistantjets,sparklingupthroughaninterveninggossamerveilofvapor,seemedmilesaway;andthefurtherthecurvingranksoffieryfountainsreceded,themorefairy-likeandbeautifultheyappeared。

Nowandthenthesurgingbosomofthelakeunderournoseswouldcalmdownominouslyandseemtobegatheringstrengthforanenterprise;andthenallofasuddenareddomeoflavaofthebulkofanordinarydwellingwouldheaveitselfaloftlikeanescapingballoon,thenburstasunder,andoutofitsheartwouldflitapale-greenfilmofvapor,andfloatupwardandvanishinthedarkness——areleasedsoulsoaringhomewardfromcaptivitywiththedamned,nodoubt。Thecrashingplungeoftheruineddomeintothelakeagainwouldsendaworldofseethingbillowslashingagainsttheshoresandshakingthefoundationsofourperch。Byandby,aloosenedmassofthehangingshelfwesatontumbledintothelake,jarringthesurroundingslikeanearthquakeanddeliveringasuggestionthatmayhavebeenintendedforahint,andmaynot。Wedidnotwaittosee。

Wegotlostagainonourwayback,andweremorethananhourhuntingforthepath。Wewerewherewecouldseethebeaconlanternatthelook-outhouseatthetime,butthoughtitwasastarandpaidnoattentiontoit。

Wereachedthehotelattwoo"clockinthemorningprettywellfaggedout。

Kilaueaneveroverflowsitsvastcrater,butburstsapassageforitslavathroughthemountainsidewhenreliefisnecessary,andthenthedestructionisfearful。About1840itrentitsoverburdenedstomachandsentabroadriveroffirecareeringdowntothesea,whichsweptawayforests,huts,plantationsandeverythingelsethatlayinitspath。

Thestreamwasfivemilesbroad,inplaces,andtwohundredfeetdeep,andthedistanceittraveledwasfortymiles。Ittoreupandboreawayacre-patchesoflandonitsbosomlikerafts——rocks,treesandallintact。Atnighttheredglarewasvisibleahundredmilesatsea;andatadistanceoffortymilesfineprintcouldbereadatmidnight。Theatmospherewaspoisonedwithsulphurousvaporsandchokedwithfallingashes,pumicestonesandcinders;countlesscolumnsofsmokeroseupandblendedtogetherinatumbledcanopythathidtheheavensandglowedwitharuddyflushreflectedfromthefiresbelow;hereandtherejetsoflavasprunghundredsoffeetintotheairandburstintorocket-spraysthatreturnedtoearthinacrimsonrain;andallthewhilethelaboringmountainshookwithNature"sgreatpalsyandvoiceditsdistressinmoaningsandthemuffledboomingofsubterraneanthunders。

Fisheswerekilledfortwentymilesalongtheshore,wherethelavaenteredthesea。Theearthquakescausedsomelossofhumanlife,andaprodigioustidalwavesweptinland,carryingeverythingbeforeitanddrowninganumberofnatives。Thedevastationconsummatedalongtheroutetraversedbytheriveroflavawascompleteandincalculable。OnlyaPompeiiandaHerculaneumwereneededatthefootofKilaueatomakethestoryoftheirruptionimmortal。

CHAPTERLXXVI。

WerodehorsebackallaroundtheislandofHawaii(thecrookedroadmakingthedistancetwohundredmiles),andenjoyedthejourneyverymuch。Weweremorethanaweekmakingthetrip,becauseourKanakahorseswouldnotgobyahouseorahutwithoutstopping——whipandspurcouldnotaltertheirmindsaboutit,andsowefinallyfoundthatiteconomizedtimetoletthemhavetheirway。Uponinquirythemysterywasexplained:thenativesaresuchthorough-goinggossipsthattheyneverpassahousewithoutstoppingtoswapnews,andconsequentlytheirhorseslearntoregardthatsortofthingasanessentialpartofthewholedutyofman,andhissalvationnottobecompassedwithoutit。However,ataformercrisisofmylifeIhadoncetakenanaristocraticyoungladyoutdriving,behindahorsethathadjustretiredfromalongandhonorablecareerasthemovingimpulseofamilkwagon,andsothispresentexperienceawokeareminiscentsadnessinmeinplaceoftheexasperationmorenaturaltotheoccasion。IrememberedhowhelplessIwasthatday,andhowhumiliated;howashamedIwasofhavingintimatedtothegirlthatIhadalwaysownedthehorseandwasaccustomedtograndeur;howhardItriedtoappeareasy,andevenvivacious,undersufferingthatwasconsumingmyvitals;howplacidlyandmaliciouslythegirlsmiled,andkeptonsmiling,whilemyhotblushesbakedthemselvesintoapermanentblood-puddinginmyface;howthehorseambledfromonesideofthestreettotheotherandwaitedcomplacentlybeforeeverythirdhousetwominutesandaquarterwhileIbelaboredhisbackandreviledhiminmyheart;howItriedtokeephimfromturningcornersandfailed;howI

movedheavenandearthtogethimoutoftown,anddidnotsucceed;howhetraversedtheentiresettlementanddeliveredimaginarymilkatahundredandsixty-twodifferentdomiciles,andhowhefinallybroughtupatadairydepotandrefusedtobudgefurther,thusroundingandcompletingtherevealmentofwhattheplebeianserviceofhislifehadbeen;how,ineloquentsilence,Iwalkedthegirlhome,andhow,whenI

tookleaveofher,herpartingremarkscorchedmysoulandappearedtoblistermeallover:shesaidthatmyhorsewasafine,capableanimal,andImusthavetakengreatcomfortinhiminmytime——butthatifI

wouldtakealongsomemilk-ticketsnexttime,andappeartodeliverthematthevarioushaltingplaces,itmightexpeditehismovementsalittle。

Therewasacoolnessbetweenusafterthat。

InoneplaceintheislandofHawaii,wesawalacedandruffledcataractoflimpidwaterleapingfromasheerprecipicefifteenhundredfeethigh;

butthatsortofsceneryfindsitsstanchestallyinthearithmeticratherthaninspectaculareffect。IfonedesirestobesostirredbyapoemofNaturewroughtinthehappilycommingledgracesofpicturesquerocks,glimpseddistances,foliage,color,shiftinglightsandshadows,andfailingwater,thatthetearsalmostcomeintohiseyessopotentisthecharmexerted,heneednotgoawayfromAmericatoenjoysuchanexperience。TheRainbowFall,inWatkinsGlen(N。Y。),ontheErierailway,isanexample。Itwouldrecedeintopitiableinsignificanceifthecalloustouristdrewonarithmeticonit;butlefttocompeteforthehonorssimplyonscenicgraceandbeauty——thegrand,theaugustandthesublimebeingbarredthecontest——itcouldchallengetheoldworldandthenewtoproduceitspeer。

Inonelocality,onourjourney,wesawsomehorsesthathadbeenbornandrearedontopofthemountains,abovetherangeofrunningwater,andconsequentlytheyhadneverdrankthatfluidintheirlives,buthadbeenalwaysaccustomedtoquenchingtheirthirstbyeatingdew-ladenorshower-wettedleaves。Andnowitwasdestructivelyfunnytoseethemsniffsuspiciouslyatapailofwater,andthenputintheirnosesandtrytotakeabiteoutofthefluid,asifitwereasolid。Findingitliquid,theywouldsnatchawaytheirheadsandfalltotrembling,snortingandshowingotherevidencesoffright。Whentheybecameconvincedatlastthatthewaterwasfriendlyandharmless,theythrustintheirnosesuptotheireyes,broughtoutamouthfulofwater,andproceededtochewitcomplacently。Wesawamancoax,kickandspuroneofthemfiveortenminutesbeforehecouldmakeitcrossarunningstream。Itspreaditsnostrils,distendeditseyesandtrembledallover,justashorsescustomarilydointhepresenceofaserpent——andforaughtIknowitthoughtthecrawlingstreamwasaserpent。

InduecourseoftimeourjourneycametoanendatKawaehae(usuallypronouncedTo-a-hi——andbeforewefindfaultwiththiselaborateorthographicalmethodofarrivingatsuchanunostentatiousresult,letuslopofftheughfromourword“though“)。Imadethishorsebacktriponamule。IpaidtendollarsforhimatKau(Kah-oo),addedfourtogethimshod,rodehimtwohundredmiles,andthensoldhimforfifteendollars。Imarkthecircumstancewithawhitestone(intheabsenceofchalk——forIneversawawhitestonethatabodycouldmarkanythingwith,thoughoutofrespectfortheancientsIhavetrieditoftenenough);foruptothatdayanddateitwasthefirststrictlycommercialtransactionIhadeverenteredinto,andcomeoutwinner。WereturnedtoHonolulu,andfromthencesailedtotheislandofMaui,andspentseveralweeksthereverypleasantly。Istillremember,withasenseofindolentluxury,apicnicingexcursionuparomanticgorgethere,calledtheIaoValley。Thetraillayalongtheedgeofabrawlingstreaminthebottomofthegorge——ashadyroute,foritwaswellroofedwiththeverdantdomesofforesttrees。Throughopeningsinthefoliageweglimpsedpicturesquescenerythatrevealedceaselesschangesandnewcharmswitheverystepofourprogress。Perpendicularwallsfromonetothreethousandfeethighguardedtheway,andweresumptuouslyplumedwithvariedfoliage,inplaces,andinplacesswathedinwavingferns。

Passingshredsofcloudtrailedtheirshadowsacrosstheseshiningfronts,mottlingthemwithblots;billowymassesofwhitevaporhidtheturretedsummits,andfarabovethevaporswelledabackgroundofgleaminggreencragsandconesthatcameandwent,throughtheveilingmists,likeislandsdriftinginafog;sometimesthecloudycurtaindescendedtillhalfthecanonwallwashidden,thenshreddedgraduallyawaytillonlyairyglimpsesofthefernyfrontappearedthroughit——thensweptaloftandleftitglorifiedinthesunagain。Nowandthen,asourpositionchanged,rockybastionsswungoutfromthewall,amimicruinofcastellatedrampartsandcrumblingtowersclothedwithmossesandhungwithgarlandsofswayingvines,andaswemovedontheyswungbackagainandhidthemselvesoncemoreinthefoliage。Presentlyaverdure-cladneedleofstone,athousandfeethigh,steppedoutfrombehindacorner,andmountedguardoverthemysteriesofthevalley。ItseemedtomethatifCaptainCookneededamonument,herewasonereadymade——therefore,whynotputuphissignhere,andselloutthevenerablecocoanutstump?

ButthechiefprideofMauiisherdeadvolcanoofHaleakala——whichmeans,translated,“thehouseofthesun。”Weclimbedathousandfeetupthesideofthisisolatedcolossusoneafternoon;thencamped,andnextdayclimbedtheremainingninethousandfeet,andanchoredonthesummit,wherewebuiltafireandfrozeandroastedbyturns,allnight。Withthefirstpallorofdawnwegotupandsawthingsthatwerenewtous。

Mountedonacommandingpinnacle,wewatchedNatureworkhersilentwonders。Theseawasspreadabroadoneveryhand,itstumbledsurfaceseemingonlywrinkledanddimpledinthedistance。Abroadvalleybelowappearedlikeanamplechecker-board,itsvelvetygreensugarplantationsalternatingwithdunsquaresofbarrennessandgrovesoftreesdiminishedtomossytufts。Beyondthevalleyweremountainspicturesquelygroupedtogether;butbearinmind,wefanciedthatwewerelookingupatthesethings——notdown。Weseemedtositinthebottomofasymmetricalbowltenthousandfeetdeep,withthevalleyandtheskirtingsealiftedawayintotheskyaboveus!Itwascurious;andnotonlycurious,butaggravating;foritwashavingourtroubleallfornothing,toclimbtenthousandfeettowardheavenandthenhavetolookupatourscenery。

However,wehadtobecontentwithitandmakethebestofit;for,allwecoulddowecouldnotcoaxourlandscapedownoutoftheclouds。

Formerly,whenIhadreadanarticleinwhichPoetreatedofthissingularfraudperpetratedupontheeyebyisolatedgreataltitudes,Ihadlookeduponthematterasaninventionofhisownfancy。

Ihavespokenoftheoutsideview——butwehadaninsideone,too。Thatwastheyawningdeadcrater,intowhichwenowandthentumbledrocks,halfaslargeasabarrel,fromourperch,andsawthemgocareeringdownthealmostperpendicularsides,boundingthreehundredfeetatajump;

kickingupcast-cloudswherevertheystruck;diminishingtoourviewastheyspedfartherintodistance;growinginvisible,finally,andonlybetrayingtheircoursebyfaintlittlepuffsofdust;andcomingtoahaltatlastinthebottomoftheabyss,twothousandfivehundredfeetdownfromwheretheystarted!Itwasmagnificentsport。Weworeourselvesoutatit。

ThecraterofVesuvius,asIhavebeforeremarked,isamodestpitaboutathousandfeetdeepandthreethousandincircumference;thatofKilaueaissomewhatdeeper,andtenmilesincircumference。ButwhatareeitherofthemcomparedtothevacantstomachofHaleakala?Iwillnotofferanyfiguresofmyown,butgiveofficialones——thoseofCommanderWilkes,U。S。N。,whosurveyeditandtestifiesthatitistwenty-sevenmilesincircumference!IfithadalevelbottomitwouldmakeafinesiteforacitylikeLondon。Itmusthaveaffordedaspectacleworthcontemplatingintheolddayswhenitsfurnacesgavefullreintotheiranger。

Presentlyvagrantwhitecloudscamedriftingalong,highovertheseaandthevalley;thentheycameincouplesandgroups;theninimposingsquadrons;graduallyjoiningtheirforces,theybankedthemselvessolidlytogether,athousandfeetunderus,andtotallyshutoutlandandocean——

notavestigeofanythingwasleftinviewbutjustalittleoftherimofthecrater,circlingawayfromthepinnaclewhereonwesat(foraghostlyprocessionofwanderersfromthefilmyhostswithouthaddriftedthroughachasminthecraterwallandfiledroundandround,andgatheredandsunkandblendedtogethertilltheabysswasstoredtothebrimwithafleecyfog)。Thusbanked,motionceased,andsilencereigned。Cleartothehorizon,leagueonleague,thesnowyfloorstretchedwithoutabreak——notlevel,butinroundedfolds,withshallowcreasesbetween,andwithhereandtherestatelypilesofvaporyarchitectureliftingthemselvesaloftoutofthecommonplain——somenearathand,someinthemiddledistances,andothersrelievingthemonotonyoftheremotesolitudes。Therewaslittleconversation,fortheimpressivesceneoverawedspeech。IfeltliketheLastMan,neglectedofthejudgment,andleftpinnacledinmid-heaven,aforgottenrelicofavanishedworld。

Whilethehushyetbrooded,themessengersofthecomingresurrectionappearedintheEast。Agrowingwarmthsuffusedthehorizon,andsoonthesunemergedandlookedoutoverthecloud-waste,flingingbarsofruddylightacrossit,stainingitsfoldsandbillow-capswithblushes,purplingtheshadedtroughsbetween,andglorifyingthemassyvapor-

palacesandcathedralswithawastefulsplendorofallblendingsandcombinationsofrichcoloring。

ItwasthesublimestspectacleIeverwitnessed,andIthinkthememoryofitwillremainwithmealways。

CHAPTERLXXVII。

IstumbledupononecuriouscharacterintheIslandofMani。Hebecameasoreannoyancetomeinthecourseoftime。MyfirstglimpseofhimwasinasortofpublicroominthetownofLahaina。Heoccupiedachairattheoppositesideoftheapartment,andsateyeingourpartywithinterestforsomeminutes,andlisteningascriticallytowhatweweresayingasifhefanciedweweretalkingtohimandexpectinghimtoreply。Ithoughtitverysociableinastranger。Presently,inthecourseofconversation,Imadeastatementbearinguponthesubjectunderdiscussion——andImadeitwithduemodesty,fortherewasnothingextraordinaryaboutit,anditwasonlyputforthinillustrationofapointatissue。Ihadbarelyfinishedwhenthispersonspokeoutwithrapidutteranceandfeverishanxiety:

“Oh,thatwascertainlyremarkable,afterafashion,butyououghttohaveseenmychimney——yououghttohaveseenmychimney,sir!Smoke!

IwishImayhangif——Mr。Jones,yourememberthatchimney——youmustrememberthatchimney!No,no——Irecollect,now,youwarn"tlivingonthissideoftheislandthen。ButIamtellingyounothingbutthetruth,andIwishImayneverdrawanotherbreathifthatchimneydidn"tsmokesothatthesmokeactuallygotcakedinitandIhadtodigitoutwithapickaxe!Youmaysmile,gentlemen,buttheHighSheriff"sgotahunkofitwhichIdugoutbeforehiseyes,andsoit"sperfectlyeasyforyoutogoandexamineforyourselves。”

Theinterruptionbrokeuptheconversation,whichhadalreadybeguntolag,andwepresentlyhiredsomenativesandanout-riggercanoeortwo,andwentouttooverlookagrandsurf-bathingcontest。

Twoweeksafterthis,whiletalkinginacompany,Ilookedupanddetectedthissamemanboringthroughandthroughmewithhisintenseeye,andnotedagainhistwitchingmusclesandhisfeverishanxietytospeak。ThemomentIpaused,hesaid:

“Begyourpardon,sir,begyourpardon,butitcanonlybeconsideredremarkablewhenbroughtintostrongoutlinebyisolation。Sir,contrastedwithacircumstancewhichoccurredinmyownexperience,itinstantlybecomescommonplace。No,notthat——forIwillnotspeaksodiscourteouslyofanyexperienceinthecareerofastrangerandagentleman——butIamobligedtosaythatyoucouldnot,andyouwouldnoteveragainrefertothistreeasalargeone,ifyoucouldbehold,asI

have,thegreatYakmatacktree,intheislandofOunaska,seaofKamtchatka——atree,sir,notoneinchlessthanfourhundredandfifteenfeetinsoliddiameter!——andIwishImaydieinaminuteifitisn"tso!

Oh,youneedn"tlooksoquestioning,gentlemen;here"soldCapSaltmarshcansaywhetherIknowwhatI"mtalkingaboutornot。Ishowedhimthetree。”

CaptainSaltmarsh——“Come,now,catyouranchor,lad——you"reheavingtootaut。Youpromisedtoshowmethatstunner,andIwalkedmorethanelevenmilewithyouthroughthecussedestjungleIeversee,ahuntingforit;butthetreeyoushowedmefinallywarn"tasbigaroundasabeercask,andyouknowthatyourownself,Markiss。”

“Hearthemantalk!Ofcoursethetreewasreducedthatway,butdidn"tIexplainit?Answerme,didn"tI?Didn"tIsayIwishedyoucouldhaveseenitwhenIfirstsawit?Whenyougotuponyourearandcalledmenames,andsaidIhadbroughtyouelevenmilestolookatasapling,didn"tIexplaintoyouthatallthewhale-shipsintheNorthSeashadbeenwoodingoffofitformorethantwenty-sevenyears?Anddidyous"posethetreecouldlastfor-ever,con-foundit?Idon"tseewhyyouwanttokeepbackthingsthatway,andtrytoinjureapersonthat"sneverdoneyouanyharm。”

Somehowthisman"spresencemademeuncomfortable,andIwasgladwhenanativearrivedatthatmomenttosaythatMuckawow,themostcompanionableandluxuriousamongtherudewar-chiefsoftheIslands,desiredustocomeoverandhelphimenjoyamissionarywhomhehadfoundtrespassingonhisgrounds。

Ithinkitwasabouttendaysafterwardthat,asIfinishedastatementI

wasmakingfortheinstructionofagroupoffriendsandacquaintances,andwhichmadenopretenceofbeingextraordinary,afamiliarvoicechimedinstantlyinontheheelsofmylastword,andsaid:

“But,mydearsir,therewasnothingremarkableaboutthathorse,orthecircumstanceeither——nothingintheworld!ImeannosortofoffencewhenIsayit,sir,butyoureallydonotknowanythingwhateveraboutspeed。Blessyourheart,ifyoucouldonlyhaveseenmymareMargaretta;

therewasabeast!——therewaslightningforyou!Trot!Trotisnonameforit——sheflew!Howshecouldwhirlabuggyalong!Istartedheroutonce,sir——ColonelBilgewater,yourecollectthatanimalperfectlywell——

Istartedheroutaboutthirtyorthirty-fiveyardsaheadoftheawfulleststormIeversawinmylife,anditchasedusupwardsofeighteenmiles!Itdid,bytheeverlastinghills!AndI"mtellingyounothingbuttheunvarnishedtruthwhenIsaythatnotonesingledropofrainfellonme——notasingledrop,sir!AndIsweartoit!Butmydogwasa-swimmingbehindthewagonalltheway!“

ForaweekortwoIstayedmostlywithindoors,forIseemedtomeetthispersoneverywhere,andhehadbecomeutterlyhatefultome。ButoneeveningIdroppedinonCaptainPerkinsandhisfriends,andwehadasociabletime。Aboutteno"clockIchancedtobetalkingaboutamerchantfriendofmine,andwithoutreallyintendingit,theremarkslippedoutthathewasalittlemeanandparsimoniousaboutpayinghisworkmen。Instantly,throughthesteamofahotwhiskeypunchontheoppositesideoftheroom,arememberedvoiceshot——andforamomentI

trembledontheimminentvergeofprofanity:

“Oh,mydearsir,reallyyouexposeyourselfwhenyouparadethatasasurprisingcircumstance。Blessyourheartandhide,youareignorantoftheveryABCofmeanness!ignorantastheunbornbabe!ignorantasunborntwins!Youdon"tknowanythingaboutit!Itispitiabletoseeyou,sir,awell-spokenandprepossessingstranger,makingsuchanenormouspow-wowhereaboutasubjectconcerningwhichyourignoranceisperfectlyhumiliating!Lookmeintheeye,ifyouplease;lookmeintheeye。JohnJamesGodfreywasthesonofpoorbuthonestparentsintheStateofMississippi——boyhoodfriendofmine——bosomcomradeinlateryears。Heavenresthisnoblespirit,heisgonefromusnow。JohnJamesGodfreywashiredbytheHayblossomMiningCompanyinCaliforniatodosomeblastingforthem——the“IncorporatedCompanyofMeanMen,“theboysusedtocallit。

Well,onedayhedrilledaholeaboutfourfeetdeepandputinanawfulblastofpowder,andwasstandingoveritrammingitdownwithanironcrowbaraboutninefootlong,whenthecussedthingstruckasparkandfiredthepowder,andscat!awayJohnGodfreywhizzedlikeaskyrocket,himandhiscrowbar!Well,sir,hekeptongoingupintheairhigherandhigher,tillhedidn"tlookanybiggerthanaboy——andhekeptgoingonuphigherandhigher,tillhedidn"tlookanybiggerthanadoll——andhekeptongoinguphigherandhigher,tillhedidn"tlookanybiggerthanalittlesmallbee——andthenhewentoutofsight!Presentlyhecameinsightagain,lookinglikealittlesmallbee——andhecamealongdownfurtherandfurther,tillhelookedasbigasadollagain——anddownfurtherandfurther,tillhewasasbigasaboyagain——andfurtherandfurther,tillhewasafull-sizedmanoncemore;andthenhimandhiscrowbarcameawh-izzingdownandlitrightexactlyinthesameoldtracksandwenttor-rammingdown,andr-rammingdown,andr-rammingdownagain,justthesameasifnothinghadhappened!Nowdoyouknow,thatpoorcusswarn"tgoneonlysixteenminutes,andyetthatIncorporatedCompanyofMeanMenDOCKEDHIMFORTHELOSTTIME!“

IsaidIhadtheheadache,andsoexcusedmyselfandwenthome。AndonmydiaryIentered“anothernightspoiled“bythisoffensiveloafer。

Andaferventcursewassetdownwithittokeeptheitemcompany。AndtheverynextdayIpackedup,outofallpatience,andlefttheIsland。

Almostfromtheverybeginning,Iregardedthatmanasaliar。

Thelineofpointsrepresentsanintervalofyears。Attheendofwhichtimetheopinionhazardedinthatlastsentencecametobegratifyinglyandremarkablyendorsed,andbywhollydisinterestedpersons。ThemanMarkisswasfoundonemorninghangingtoabeamofhisownbedroom(thedoorsandwindowssecurelyfastenedontheinside),dead;andonhisbreastwaspinnedapaperinhisownhandwritingbegginghisfriendstosuspectnoinnocentpersonofhavinganythingtodowithhisdeath,forthatitwastheworkofhisownhandsentirely。Yetthejurybroughtintheastoundingverdictthatdeceasedcametohisdeath“bythehandsofsomepersonorpersonsunknown!“TheyexplainedthattheperfectlyundeviatingconsistencyofMarkiss"scharacterforthirtyyearstoweredaloftascolossalandindestructibletestimony,thatwhateverstatementhechosetomakewasentitledtoinstantandunquestioningacceptanceasalie。Andtheyfurthermorestatedtheirbeliefthathewasnotdead,andinstancedthestrongcircumstantialevidenceofhisownwordthathewasdead——andbeseechedthecoronertodelaythefuneralaslongaspossible,whichwasdone。AndsointhetropicalclimateofLahainathecoffinstoodopenforsevendays,andtheneventheloyaljurygavehimup。Buttheysatonhimagain,andchangedtheirverdictto“suicideinducedbymentalaberration“——because,saidthey,withpenetration,“hesaidhewasdead,andhewasdead;andwouldhehavetoldthetruthifhehadbeeninhisrightmind?No,sir。”

CHAPTERLXXVIII。

Afterhalfayear"sluxuriousvagrancyintheislands,Itookshippinginasailingvessel,andregretfullyreturnedtoSanFrancisco——avoyageineverywaydelightful,butwithoutanincident:unlesslyingtwolongweeksinadeadcalm,eighteenhundredmilesfromthenearestland,mayrankasanincident。Schoolsofwhalesgrewsotamethatdayafterdaytheyplayedabouttheshipamongtheporpoisesandthesharkswithouttheleastapparentfearofus,andwepeltedthemwithemptybottlesforlackofbettersport。Twenty-fourhoursafterwardthesebottleswouldbestilllyingontheglassywaterunderournoses,showingthattheshiphadnotmovedoutofherplaceinallthattime。Thecalmwasabsolutelybreathless,andthesurfaceoftheseaabsolutelywithoutawrinkle。

Forawholedayandpartofanightwelaysoclosetoanothershipthathaddriftedtoourvicinity,thatwecarriedonconversationswithherpassengers,introducedeachotherbyname,andbecameprettyintimatelyacquaintedwithpeoplewehadneverheardofbefore,andhaveneverheardofsince。Thiswastheonlyvesselwesawduringthewholelonelyvoyage。Wehadfifteenpassengers,andtoshowhowhardpressedtheywereatlastforoccupationandamusement,Iwillmentionthatthegentlemengaveagoodpartoftheirtimeeveryday,duringthecalm,totryingtositonanemptychampagnebottle(lyingonitsside),andthreadaneedlewithouttouchingtheirheelstothedeck,orfallingover;andtheladiessatintheshadeofthemainsail,andwatchedtheenterprisewithabsorbinginterest。WewereatseafiveSundays;andyet,butforthealmanac,weneverwouldhaveknownbutthatalltheotherdayswereSundaystoo。

Iwashomeagain,inSanFrancisco,withoutmeansandwithoutemployment。

Itorturedmybrainforasavingschemeofsomekind,andatlastapubliclectureoccurredtome!Isatdownandwroteone,inafeverofhopefulanticipation。Ishowedittoseveralfriends,buttheyallshooktheirheads。Theysaidnobodywouldcometohearme,andIwouldmakeahumiliatingfailureofit。

TheysaidthatasIhadneverspokeninpublic,Iwouldbreakdowninthedelivery,anyhow。Iwasdisconsolatenow。Butatlastaneditorslappedmeonthebackandtoldmeto“goahead。”Hesaid,“Takethelargesthouseintown,andchargeadollaraticket。”Theaudacityofthepropositionwascharming;itseemedfraughtwithpracticalworldlywisdom,however。Theproprietoroftheseveraltheatresendorsedtheadvice,andsaidImighthavehishandsomenewopera-houseathalfprice——fiftydollars。InsheerdesperationItookit——oncredit,forsufficientreasons。InthreedaysIdidahundredandfiftydollars"

worthofprintingandadvertising,andwasthemostdistressedandfrightenedcreatureonthePacificcoast。Icouldnotsleep——whocould,undersuchcircumstances?Forotherpeopletherewasfacetiousnessinthelastlineofmyposters,buttomeitwasplaintivewithapangwhenIwroteit:

“Doorsopenat71/2。Thetroublewillbeginat8。”

Thatlinehasdonegoodservicesince。Showmenhaveborroweditfrequently。Ihaveevenseenitappendedtoanewspaperadvertisementremindingschoolpupilsinvacationwhattimenexttermwouldbegin。Asthosethreedaysofsuspensedraggedby,Igrewmoreandmoreunhappy。

Ihadsoldtwohundredticketsamongmypersonalfriends,butIfearedtheymightnotcome。Mylecture,whichhadseemed“humorous“tome,atfirst,grewsteadilymoreandmoredreary,tillnotavestigeoffunseemedleft,andIgrievedthatIcouldnotbringacoffinonthestageandturnthethingintoafuneral。Iwassopanic-stricken,atlast,thatIwenttothreeoldfriends,giantsinstature,cordialbynature,andstormy-voiced,andsaid:

“Thisthingisgoingtobeafailure;thejokesinitaresodimthatnobodywilleverseethem;Iwouldliketohaveyousitintheparquette,andhelpmethrough。”

Theysaidtheywould。ThenIwenttothewifeofapopularcitizen,andsaidthatifshewaswillingtodomeaverygreatkindness,Iwouldbegladifsheandherhusbandwouldsitprominentlyintheleft-handstage-

box,wherethewholehousecouldseethem。IexplainedthatIshouldneedhelp,andwouldturntowardherandsmile,asasignal,whenIhadbeendeliveredofanobscurejoke——“andthen,“Iadded,“don"twaittoinvestigate,butrespond!“

Shepromised。DownthestreetImetamanIneverhadseenbefore。Hehadbeendrinking,andwasbeamingwithsmilesandgoodnature。Hesaid:

“Myname"sSawyer。Youdon"tknowme,butthatdon"tmatter。Ihaven"tgotacent,butifyouknewhowbadIwantedtolaugh,you"dgivemeaticket。Come,now,whatdoyousay?“

“Isyourlaughhungonahair-trigger?——thatis,isitcritical,orcanyougetitoffeasy?“

MydrawlinginfirmityofspeechsoaffectedhimthathelaughedaspecimenortwothatstruckmeasbeingaboutthearticleIwanted,andI

gavehimaticket,andappointedhimtositinthesecondcircle,inthecentre,andberesponsibleforthatdivisionofthehouse。Igavehimminuteinstructionsabouthowtodetectindistinctjokes,andthenwentaway,andlefthimchucklingplacidlyoverthenoveltyoftheidea。

Iatenothingonthelastofthethreeeventfuldays——Ionlysuffered。

Ihadadvertisedthatonthisthirddaythebox-officewouldbeopenedforthesaleofreservedseats。Icreptdowntothetheateratfourintheafternoontoseeifanysaleshadbeenmade。Theticketsellerwasgone,thebox-officewaslockedup。Ihadtoswallowsuddenly,ormyheartwouldhavegotout。“Nosales,“Isaidtomyself;“Imighthaveknownit。”Ithoughtofsuicide,pretendedillness,flight。Ithoughtofthesethingsinearnest,forIwasverymiserableandscared。ButofcourseIhadtodrivethemaway,andpreparetomeetmyfate。Icouldnotwaitforhalf-pastseven——Iwantedtofacethehorror,andendit——

thefeelingofmanyamandoomedtohang,nodoubt。Iwentdownbackstreetsatsixo"clock,andenteredthetheatrebythebackdoor。

Istumbledmywayinthedarkamongtheranksofcanvasscenery,andstoodonthestage。Thehousewasgloomyandsilent,anditsemptinessdepressing。Iwentintothedarkamongthescenesagain,andforanhourandahalfgavemyselfuptothehorrors,whollyunconsciousofeverythingelse。ThenIheardamurmur;itrosehigherandhigher,andendedinacrash,mingledwithcheers。Itmademyhairraise,itwassoclosetome,andsoloud。

Therewasapause,andthenanother;presentlycameathird,andbeforeI

wellknewwhatIwasabout,Iwasinthemiddleofthestage,staringataseaoffaces,bewilderedbythefierceglareofthelights,andquakingineverylimbwithaterrorthatseemedliketotakemylifeaway。Thehousewasfull,aislesandall!

ThetummultinmyheartandbrainandlegscontinuedafullminutebeforeIcouldgainanycommandovermyself。ThenIrecognizedthecharityandthefriendlinessinthefacesbeforeme,andlittlebylittlemyfrightmeltedaway,andIbegantotalkWithinthreeorfourminutesIwascomfortable,andevencontent。Mythreechiefallies,withthreeauxiliaries,wereonhand,intheparquette,allsittingtogether,allarmedwithbludgeons,andallreadytomakeanonslaughtuponthefeeblestjokethatmightshowitshead。Andwheneverajokedidfall,theirbludgeonscamedownandtheirfacesseemedtosplitfromeartoear。

Sawyer,whoseheartycountenancewasseenloomingredlyinthecentreofthesecondcircle,tookitup,andthehousewascarriedhandsomely。

Inferiorjokesneverfaredsoroyallybefore。PresentlyIdeliveredabitofseriousmatterwithimpressiveunction(itwasmypet),andtheaudiencelistenedwithanabsorbedhushthatgratifiedmemorethananyapplause;andasIdroppedthelastwordoftheclause,IhappenedtoturnandcatchMrs——"sintentandwaitingeye;myconversationwithherflasheduponme,andinspiteofallIcoulddoIsmiled。Shetookitforthesignal,andpromptlydeliveredamellowlaughthattouchedoffthewholeaudience;andtheexplosionthatfollowedwasthetriumphoftheevening。IthoughtthatthathonestmanSawyerwouldchokehimself;

andasforthebludgeons,theyperformedlikepile-drivers。Butmypoorlittlemorselofpathoswasruined。Itwastakeningoodfaithasanintentionaljoke,andtheprizeoneoftheentertainment,andIwiselyletitgoatthat。

Allthepaperswerekindinthemorning;myappetitereturned;Ihadaabundanceofmoney。All"swellthatendswell。

CHAPTERLXXIX。

Ilaunchedoutasalecturer,now,withgreatboldness。Ihadthefieldalltomyself,forpubliclectureswerealmostanunknowncommodityinthePacificmarket。Theyarenotsorare,now,Isuppose。Itookanoldpersonalfriendalongtoplayagentforme,andfortwoorthreeweeksweroamedthroughNevadaandCaliforniaandhadaverycheerfultimeofit。

TwodaysbeforeIlecturedinVirginiaCity,twostagecoacheswererobbedwithintwomilesofthetown。Thedaringactwascommittedjustatdawn,bysixmaskedmen,whosprangupalongsidethecoaches,presentedrevolversattheheadsofthedriversandpassengers,andcommandedageneraldismount。Everybodyclimbeddown,andtherobberstooktheirwatchesandeverycenttheyhad。Thentheytookgunpowderandblewuptheexpressspecieboxesandgottheircontents。Theleaderoftherobberswasasmall,quick-spokenman,andthefameofhisvigorousmannerandhisintrepiditywasineverybody"smouthwhenwearrived。

ThenightafterinstructingVirginia,Iwalkedoverthedesolate“divide“

anddowntoGoldHill,andlecturedthere。Thelecturedone,Istoppedtotalkwithafriend,anddidnotstartbacktilleleven。The“divide“

washigh,unoccupiedground,betweenthetowns,thesceneoftwentymidnightmurdersandahundredrobberies。Asweclimbedupandsteppedoutonthiseminence,theGoldHilllightsdroppedoutofsightatourbacks,andthenightcloseddowngloomyanddismal。Asharpwindswepttheplace,too,andchilledourperspiringbodiesthrough。

“ItellyouIdon"tlikethisplaceatnight,“saidMiketheagent。

“Well,don"tspeaksoloud,“Isaid。“Youneedn"tremindanybodythatwearehere。”

JustthenadimfigureapproachedmefromthedirectionofVirginia——aman,evidently。Hecamestraightatme,andIsteppedasidetolethimpass;hesteppedinthewayandconfrontedmeagain。ThenIsawthathehadamaskonandwasholdingsomethinginmyface——Iheardaclick-clickandrecognizedarevolverindimoutline。Ipushedthebarrelasidewithmyhandandsaid:

“Don"t!“

Heejaculatedsharply:

“Yourwatch!Yourmoney!“

Isaid:

“Youcanhavethemwithpleasure——buttakethepistolawayfrommyface,please。Itmakesmeshiver。”

“Noremarks!Handoutyourmoney!“

“Certainly——I——“

“Putupyourhands!Don"tyougoforaweapon!Put"emup!Higher!“

Iheldthemabovemyhead。

Apause。Then:

“Areyougoingtohandoutyourmoneyornot?“

Idroppedmyhandstomypocketsandsaid:

Certainly!I——“

“Putupyourhands!Doyouwantyourheadblownoff?Higher!“

Iputthemabovemyheadagain。

Anotherpause。

Areyougoingtohandoutyourmoneyornot?Ah-ah——again?Putupyourhands!ByGeorge,youwanttheheadshotoffyouawfulbad!“

“Well,friend,I"mtryingmybesttopleaseyou。Youtellmetogiveupmymoney,andwhenIreachforityoutellmetoputupmyhands。Ifyouwouldonly。Oh,now——don"t!Allsixofyouatme!Thatothermanwillgetawaywhile——Nowpleasetakesomeofthoserevolversoutofmyface——do,ifyouplease!Everytimeoneofthemclicks,mylivercomesupintomythroat!Ifyouhaveamother——anyofyou——orifanyofyouhaveeverhadamother——ora——grandmother——ora——“

“Cheeseit!Willyougiveupyourmoney,orhavewegotto。There——

there——noneofthat!Putupyourhands!“

“Gentlemen——Iknowyouaregentlemenbyyour——“

“Silence!Ifyouwanttobefacetious,youngman,therearetimesandplacesmorefitting。Thisisaseriousbusiness。”

“Youprickthemarrowofmyopinion。ThefuneralsIhaveattendedinmytimewerecomediescomparedtoit。NowIthink——“

“Curseyourpalaver!Yourmoney!——yourmoney!——yourmoney!Hold!——putupyourhands!“

“Gentlemen,listentoreason。YouseehowIamsituated——nowdon"tputthosepistolssoclose——Ismellthepowder。

YouseehowIamsituated。IfIhadfourhands——sothatIcouldholduptwoand——“

“Throttlehim!Gaghim!Killhim!“

“Gentlemen,don"t!Nobody"swatchingtheotherfellow。Whydon"tsomeofyou。Ouch!Takeitaway,please!

Gentlemen,youseethatI"vegottoholdupmyhands;andsoIcan"ttakeoutmymoney——butifyou"llbesokindastotakeitoutforme,Iwilldoasmuchforyousome——“

“SearchhimBeauregard——andstophisjawwithabullet,quick,ifhewagsitagain。HelpBeauregard,Stonewall。”

Thenthreeofthem,withthesmall,spryleader,adjournedtoMikeandfelltosearchinghim。Iwassoexcitedthatmylawlessfancytorturedmetoaskmytwomenallmanneroffacetiousquestionsabouttheirrebelbrother-generalsoftheSouth,but,consideringtheordertheyhadreceived,itwasbutcommonprudencetokeepstill。Wheneverythinghadbeentakenfromme,——watch,money,andamultitudeoftriflesofsmallvalue,——IsupposedIwasfree,andforthwithputmycoldhandsintomyemptypocketsandbegananinoffensivejigtowarmmyfeetandstirupsomelatentcourage——butinstantlyallpistolswereatmyhead,andtheordercameagain:

TheystoodMikeupalongsideofme,withstrictorderstokeephishandsabovehishead,too,andthenthechiefhighwaymansaid:

“Beauregard,hidebehindthatboulder;PhilSheridan,youhidebehindthatotherone;StonewallJackson,putyourselfbehindthatsage-bushthere。Keepyourpistolsbearingonthesefellows,andiftheytakedowntheirhandswithintenminutes,ormoveasinglepeg,letthemhaveit!“

Thenthreedisappearedinthegloomtowardtheseveralambushes,andtheotherthreedisappeareddowntheroadtowardVirginia。

Itwasdepressinglystill,andmiserablycold。Nowthiswholethingwasapracticaljoke,andtherobberswerepersonalfriendsofoursindisguise,andtwentymorelayhiddenwithintenfeetofusduringthewholeoperation,listening。Mikeknewallthis,andwasinthejoke,butIsuspectednothingofit。Tomeitwasmostuncomfortablygenuine。

Whenwehadstoodthereinthemiddleoftheroadfiveminutes,likeacoupleofidiots,withourhandsaloft,freezingtodeathbyinches,Mike"sinterestinthejokebegantowane。Hesaid:

“Thetime"sup,now,aintit?“

“No,youkeepstill。Doyouwanttotakeanychanceswiththesebloodysavages?“

PresentlyMikesaid:

“Nowthetime"sup,anyway。I"mfreezing。”

“Wellfreeze。Betterfreezethancarryyourbrainshomeinabasket。

Maybethetimeisup,buthowdoweknow?——gotnowatchtotellby。

Imeantogivethemgoodmeasure。Icalculatetostandherefifteenminutesordie。Don"tyoumove。”

So,withoutknowingit,Iwasmakingonejokerverysickofhiscontract。

Whenwetookourarmsdownatlast,theywereachingwithcoldandfatigue,andwhenwewentsneakingoff,thedreadIwasinthatthetimemightnotyetbeupandthatwewouldfeelbulletsinamoment,wasnotsufficienttodrawallmyattentionfromthemiserythatrackedmystiffenedbody。

Thejokeofthesehighwaymanfriendsofourswasmainlyajokeuponthemselves;fortheyhadwaitedformeonthecoldhill-toptwofullhoursbeforeIcame,andtherewasverylittlefuninthat;theyweresochilledthatittookthemacoupleofweekstogetwarmagain。Moreover,Ineverhadathoughtthattheywouldkillmetogetmoneywhichitwassoperfectlyeasytogetwithoutanysuchfolly,andsotheydidnotreallyfrightenmebadenoughtomaketheirenjoymentworththetroubletheyhadtaken。Iwasonlyafraidthattheirweaponswouldgooffaccidentally。Theirverynumbersinspiredmewithconfidencethatnobloodwouldbeintentionallyspilled。Theywerenotsmart;theyoughttohavesentonlyonehighwayman,withadouble-barrelledshotgun,iftheydesiredtoseetheauthorofthisvolumeclimbatree。

However,IsupposethatinthelongrunIgotthelargestshareofthejokeatlast;andinashapenotforeseenbythehighwaymen;forthechillyexposureonthe“divide“whileIwasinaperspirationgavemeacoldwhichdevelopeditselfintoatroublesomediseaseandkeptmyhandsidlesomethreemonths,besidescostingmequiteasumindoctor"sbills。

SincethenIplaynopracticaljokesonpeopleandgenerallylosemytemperwhenoneisplayeduponme。

WhenIreturnedtoSanFranciscoIprojectedapleasurejourneytoJapanandthencewestwardaroundtheworld;butadesiretoseehomeagainchangedmymind,andItookaberthinthesteamship,badegood-byetothefriendliestlandandlivest,heartiestcommunityonourcontinent,andcamebythewayoftheIsthmustoNewYork——atripthatwasnotmuchofapic-nicexcursion,forthecholerabrokeoutamongusonthepassageandweburiedtwoorthreebodiesatseaeveryday。Ifoundhomeadrearyplaceaftermylongabsence;forhalfthechildrenIhadknownwerenowwearingwhiskersorwaterfalls,andfewofthegrownpeopleI

hadbeenacquaintedwithremainedattheirhearthstonesprosperousandhappy——someofthemhadwanderedtootherscenes,somewereinjail,andtheresthadbeenhanged。Thesechangestouchedmedeeply,andIwentawayandjoinedthefamousQuakerCityEuropeanExcursionandcarriedmytearstoforeignlands。

Thus,aftersevenyearsofvicissitudes,endeda“pleasuretrip“tothesilverminesofNevadawhichhadoriginallybeenintendedtooccupyonlythreemonths。However,Iusuallymissmycalculationsfurtherthanthat。

MORAL。

Ifthereaderthinksheisdone,now,andthatthisbookhasnomoraltoit,heisinerror。Themoralofitisthis:Ifyouareofanyaccount,stayathomeandmakeyourwaybyfaithfuldiligence;butifyouare“noaccount,“goawayfromhome,andthenyouwillhavetowork,whetheryouwanttoornot。Thusyoubecomeablessingtoyourfriendsbyceasingtobeanuisancetothem——ifthepeopleyougoamongsufferbytheoperation。

APPENDIX。A。

BRIEFSKETCHOFMORMONHISTORY。

Mormonismisonlyaboutfortyyearsold,butitscareerhasbeenfullofstirandadventurefromthebeginning,andislikelytoremainsototheend。Itsadherentshavebeenhuntedandhoundedfromoneendofthecountrytotheother,andtheresultisthatforyearstheyhavehatedall“Gentiles“indiscriminatelyandwithalltheirmight。JosephSmith,thefinderoftheBookofMormonandfounderofthereligion,wasdrivenfromStatetoStatewithhismysteriouscopperplatesandthemiraculousstoneshereadtheirinscriptionswith。Finallyheinstitutedhis“church“inOhioandBrighamYoungjoinedit。Theneighborsbegantopersecute,andapostasycommenced。Brighamheldtothefaithandworkedhard。Hearresteddesertion。Hedidmore——headdedconvertsinthemidstofthetrouble。Heroseinfavorandimportancewiththebrethren。

HewasmadeoneoftheTwelveApostlesoftheChurch。Heshortlyfoughthiswaytoahigherpostandamorepowerful——PresidentoftheTwelve。

TheneighborsroseupanddrovetheMormonsoutofOhio,andtheysettledinMissouri。Brighamwentwiththem。TheMissouriansdrovethemoutandtheyretreatedtoNauvoo,Illinois。Theyprosperedthere,andbuiltatemplewhichmadesomepretensionstoarchitecturalgraceandachievedsomecelebrityinasectionofcountrywhereabrickcourt-housewithatindomeandacupolaonitwascontemplatedwithreverentialawe。

ButtheMormonswerebadgeredandharriedagainbytheirneighbors。

AlltheproclamationsJosephSmithcouldissuedenouncingpolygamyandrepudiatingitasutterlyanti-Mormonwereofnoavail;thepeopleoftheneighborhood,onbothsidesoftheMississippi,claimedthatpolygamywaspractisedbytheMormons,andnotonlypolygamybutalittleofeverythingthatwasbad。BrighamreturnedfromamissiontoEngland,wherehehadestablishedaMormonnewspaper,andhebroughtbackwithhimseveralhundredconvertstohispreaching。Hisinfluenceamongthebrethrenaugmentedwitheverymovehemade。FinallyNauvoowasinvadedbytheMissouriandIllinoisGentiles,andJosephSmithkilled。AMormonnamedRigdonassumedthePresidencyoftheMormonchurchandgovernment,inSmith"splace,andeventriedhishandataprophecyortwo。Butagreaterthanhewasathand。Brighamseizedtheadvantageofthehourandwithoutotherauthoritythansuperiorbrainandnerveandwill,hurledRigdonfromhishighplaceandoccupiedithimself。Hedidmore。

HelaunchedanelaboratecurseatRigdonandhisdisciples;andhepronouncedRigdon"s“prophecies“emanationsfromthedevil,andendedby“handingthefalseprophetovertothebuffetingsofSatanforathousandyears“——probablythelongesttermeverinflictedinIllinois。Thepeoplerecognizedtheirmaster。TheystraightwayelectedBrighamYoungPresident,byaprodigiousmajority,andhaveneverfalteredintheirdevotiontohimfromthatdaytothis。Brighamhadforecast——aqualitywhichnootherprominentMormonhasprobablyeverpossessed。

Herecognizedthatitwasbettertomovetothewildernessthanbemoved。

Byhiscommandthepeoplegatheredtogethertheirmeagreeffects,turnedtheirbacksupontheirhomes,andtheirfacestowardthewilderness,andonabitternightinFebruaryfiledinsorrowfulprocessionacrossthefrozenMississippi,lightedontheirwaybytheglarefromtheirburningtemple,whosesacredfurnituretheirownhandshadfired!Theycamped,severaldaysafterward,onthewesternvergeofIowa,andpoverty,want,hunger,cold,sickness,griefandpersecutiondidtheirwork,andmanysuccumbedanddied——martyrs,fairandtrue,whateverelsetheymighthavebeen。Twoyearstheremnantremainedthere,whileBrighamandasmallpartycrossedthecountryandfoundedGreatSaltLakeCity,purposelychoosingalandwhichwasoutsidetheownershipandjurisdictionofthehatedAmericannation。Notethat。Thiswasin1847。Brighammovedhispeoplethereandgotthemsettledjustintimetoseedisasterfallagain。ForthewarclosedandMexicocededBrigham"srefugetotheenemy——theUnitedStates!In1849theMormonsorganizeda“freeandindependent“governmentanderectedthe“StateofDeseret,“withBrighamYoungasitshead。ButtheverynextyearCongressdeliberatelysnubbeditandcreatedthe“TerritoryofUtah“outofthesameaccumulationofmountains,sage-brush,alkaliandgeneraldesolation,——butmadeBrighamGovernorofit。ThenforyearstheenormousmigrationacrosstheplainstoCaliforniapouredthroughthelandoftheMormonsandyetthechurchremainedstaunchandtruetoitslordandmaster。Neitherhunger,thirst,poverty,grief,hatred,contempt,norpersecutioncoulddrivetheMormonsfromtheirfaithortheirallegiance;andeventhethirstforgold,whichgleanedthefloweroftheyouthandstrengthofmanynationswasnotabletoenticethem!Thatwasthefinaltest。Anexperimentthatcouldsurvivethatwasanexperimentwithsomesubstancetoitsomewhere。

GreatSaltLakeCitythrovefinely,andsodidUtah。OneofthelastthingswhichBrighamYounghaddonebeforeleavingIowa,wastoappearinthepulpitdressedtopersonatetheworshippedandlamentedprophetSmith,andconferthepropheticsuccession,withallitsdignities,emolumentsandauthorities,upon“PresidentBrighamYoung!“Thepeopleacceptedthepiousfraudwiththemaddestenthusiasm,andBrigham"spowerwassealedandsecuredforalltime。Withinfiveyearsafterwardheopenlyaddedpolygamytothetenetsofthechurchbyauthorityofa“revelation“whichhepretendedhadbeenreceivednineyearsbeforebyJosephSmith,albeitJosephisamplyonrecordasdenouncingpolygamytothedayofhisdeath。

NowwasBrighambecomeasecondAndrewJohnsoninthesmallbeginningandsteadyprogressofhisofficialgrandeur。Hehadservedsuccessivelyasadiscipleintheranks;homemissionary;foreignmissionary;editorandpublisher;Apostle;PresidentoftheBoardofApostles;PresidentofallMormondom,civilandecclesiastical;successortothegreatJosephbythewillofheaven;“prophet,““seer,““revelator。”Therewasbutonedignityhigherwhichhecouldaspireto,andhereachedoutmodestlyandtookthat——heproclaimedhimselfaGod!

Heclaimsthatheistohaveaheavenofhisownhereafter,andthathewillbeitsGod,andhiswivesandchildrenitsgoddesses,princesandprincesses。IntoitallfaithfulMormonswillbeadmitted,withtheirfamilies,andwilltakerankandconsequenceaccordingtothenumberoftheirwivesandchildren。Ifadisciplediesbeforehehashadtimetoaccumulateenoughwivesandchildrentoenablehimtoberespectableinthenextworldanyfriendcanmarryafewwivesandraiseafewchildrenforhimafterheisdead,andtheyaredulycreditedtohisaccountandhisheavenlystatusadvancedaccordingly。

LetitbeborneinmindthatthemajorityoftheMormonshavealwaysbeenignorant,simple,ofaninferiororderofintellect,unacquaintedwiththeworldanditsways;andletitbeborneinmindthatthewivesoftheseMormonsarenecessarilyafterthesamepatternandtheirchildrenlikelytobefitrepresentativesofsuchaconjunction;andthenletitberememberedthatforfortyyearsthesecreatureshavebeendriven,driven,driven,relentlessly!andmobbed,beaten,andshotdown;cursed,despised,expatriated;banishedtoaremotedesert,whithertheyjourneyedgauntwithfamineanddisease,disturbingtheancientsolitudeswiththeirlamentationsandmarkingthelongwaywithgravesoftheirdead——andallbecausetheyweresimplytryingtoliveandworshipGodinthewaywhichtheybelievedwithalltheirheartsandsoulstobethetrueone。Letallthesethingsbeborneinmind,andthenitwillnotbehardtoaccountforthedeathlesshatredwhichtheMormonsbearourpeopleandourgovernment。

Thathatredhas“fedfatitsancientgrudge“eversinceMormonUtahdevelopedintoaself-supportingrealmandthechurchwaxedrichandstrong。BrighamasTerritorialGovernormadeitplainthatMormondomwasfortheMormons。TheUnitedStatestriedtorectifyallthatbyappointingterritorialofficersfromNewEnglandandotheranti-Mormonlocalities,butBrighampreparedtomaketheirentranceintohisdominionsdifficult。ThreethousandUnitedStatestroopshadtogoacrosstheplainsandputthesegentlemeninoffice。Andaftertheywereinofficetheywereashelplessassomanystoneimages。Theymadelawswhichnobodymindedandwhichcouldnotbeexecuted。Thefederaljudgesopenedcourtinalandfilledwithcrimeandviolenceandsatasholidayspectaclesforinsolentcrowdstogapeat——fortherewasnothingtotry,nothingtodonothingonthedockets!AndifaGentilebroughtasuit,theMormonjurywoulddojustasitpleasedaboutbringinginaverdict,andwhenthejudgmentofthecourtwasrenderednoMormoncaredforitandnoofficercouldexecuteit。OurPresidentsshippedonecargoofofficialsafteranothertoUtah,buttheresultwasalwaysthesame——theysatinablightforawhiletheyfairlyfeastedonscowlsandinsultsdaybyday,theysaweveryattempttodotheirofficialdutiesfinditsrewardindarkeranddarkerlooks,andinsecretthreatsandwarningsofamoreandmoredismalnature——andatlasttheyeithersuccumbedandbecamedespisedtoolsandtoysoftheMormons,orgotscaredanddiscomfortedbeyondallenduranceandlefttheTerritory。Ifabraveofficerkeptoncourageouslytillhispluckwasproven,somepliantBuchananorPiercewouldremovehimandappointastickinhisplace。

In1857GeneralHarneycameverynearbeingappointedGovernorofUtah。

AndsoitcameverynearbeingHarneygovernorandCradlebaughjudge!——

twomenwhoneverhadanyideaoffearfurtherthanthesortofmurkycomprehensionofitwhichtheywereenabledtogatherfromthedictionary。Simply(iffornothingelse)forthevarietytheywouldhavemadeinarathermonotonoushistoryofFederalservilityandhelplessness,itisapitytheywerenotfatedtoholdofficetogetherinUtah。

UptothedateofourvisittoUtah,suchhadbeentheTerritorialrecord。TheTerritorialgovernmentestablishedtherehadbeenahopelessfailure,andBrighamYoungwastheonlyrealpowerintheland。Hewasanabsolutemonarch——amonarchwhodefiedourPresident——amonarchwholaughedatourarmieswhentheycampedabouthiscapital——amonarchwhoreceivedwithoutemotionthenewsthattheaugustCongressoftheUnitedStateshadenactedasolemnlawagainstpolygamy,andthenwentforthcalmlyandmarriedtwenty-fiveorthirtymorewives。

B。

THEMOUNTAINMEADOWSMASSACRE。

ThepersecutionswhichtheMormonssufferedsolong——andwhichtheyconsidertheystillsufferinnotbeingallowedtogovernthemselves——

theyhaveendeavoredandarestillendeavoringtorepay。Thenowalmostforgotten“MountainMeadowsmassacre“wastheirwork。Itwasveryfamousinitsday。ThewholeUnitedStatesrangwithitshorrors。Afewitemswillrefreshthereader"smemory。AgreatemigranttrainfromMissouriandArkansaspassedthroughSaltLakeCityandafewdisaffectedMormonsjoineditforthesakeofthestrongprotectionitaffordedfortheirescape。InthatmatterlaysufficientcauseforhotretaliationbytheMormonchiefs。Besides,theseonehundredandforty-fiveoronehundredandfiftyunsuspectingemigrantsbeinginpartfromArkansas,whereanotedMormonmissionaryhadlatelybeenkilled,andinpartfromMissouri,aStaterememberedwithexecrationsasabitterpersecutorofthesaintswhentheywerefewandpoorandfriendless,hereweresubstantialadditionalgroundsforlackofloveforthesewayfarers。

Andfinally,thistrainwasrich,veryrichincattle,horses,mulesandotherproperty——andhowcouldtheMormonsconsistentlykeepuptheircovetedresemblancetotheIsraelitishtribesandnotseizethe“spoil“

ofanenemywhentheLordhadsomanifestly“delivereditintotheirhand?“

Wherefore,accordingtoMrs。C。V。Waite"sentertainingbook,“TheMormonProphet,“ittranspiredthat——

“A"revelation"fromBrighamYoung,asGreatGrandArcheeorGod,wasdispatchedtoPresidentJ。C。Haight,BishopHigbeeandJ。D。Lee(adoptedsonofBrigham),commandingthemtoraisealltheforcestheycouldmusterandtrust,followthosecursedGentiles(soreadtherevelation),attackthemdisguisedasIndians,andwiththearrowsoftheAlmightymakeacleansweepofthem,andleavenonetotellthetale;andiftheyneededanyassistancetheywerecommandedtohiretheIndiansastheirallies,promisingthemashareofthebooty。Theyweretobeneitherslothfulnornegligentintheirduty,andtobepunctualinsendingtheteamsbacktohimbeforewintersetin,forthiswasthemandateofAlmightyGod。”

Thecommandofthe“revelation“wasfaithfullyobeyed。AlargepartyofMormons,paintedandtrickedoutasIndians,overtookthetrainofemigrantwagonssomethreehundredmilessouthofSaltLakeCity,andmadeanattack。Buttheemigrantsthrewupearthworks,madefortressesoftheirwagonsanddefendedthemselvesgallantlyandsuccessfullyforfivedays!YourMissouriorArkansasgentlemanisnotmuchafraidofthesortofscurvyapologiesfor“Indians“whichthesouthernpartofUtahaffords。Hewouldstandupandfightfivehundredofthem。

AttheendofthefivedaystheMormonstriedmilitarystrategy。Theyretiredtotheupperendofthe“Meadows,“resumedcivilizedapparel,washedofftheirpaint,andthen,heavilyarmed,drovedowninwagonstothebeleagueredemigrants,bearingaflagoftruce!Whentheemigrantssawwhitemencomingtheythrewdowntheirgunsandwelcomedthemwithcheeraftercheer!And,allunconsciousofthepoetryofit,nodoubt,theyliftedalittlechildaloft,dressedinwhite,inanswertotheflagoftruce!

Theleadersofthetimelywhite“deliverers“werePresidentHaightandBishopJohnD。Lee,oftheMormonChurch。Mr。Cradlebaugh,whoservedatermasaFederalJudgeinUtahandafterwardwassenttoCongressfromNevada,tellsinaspeechdeliveredinCongresshowtheseleadersnextproceeded:

“TheyprofessedtobeongoodtermswiththeIndians,andrepresentedthemasbeingverymad。TheyalsoproposedtointercedeandsettlethematterwiththeIndians。Afterseveralhoursparleythey,having(apparently)visitedtheIndians,gavetheultimatumofthesavages;

whichwas,thattheemigrantsshouldmarchoutoftheircamp,leavingeverythingbehindthem,eventheirguns。ItwaspromisedbytheMormonbishopsthattheywouldbringaforceandguardtheemigrantsbacktothesettlements。Thetermswereagreedto,theemigrantsbeingdesirousofsavingthelivesoftheirfamilies。TheMormonsretired,andsubsequentlyappearedwiththirtyorfortyarmedmen。Theemigrantsweremarchedout,thewomenandchildreninfrontandthemenbehind,theMormonguardbeingintherear。Whentheyhadmarchedinthiswayaboutamile,atagivensignaltheslaughtercommenced。Themenwerealmostallshotdownatthefirstfirefromtheguard。Twoonlyescaped,whofledtothedesert,andwerefollowedonehundredandfiftymilesbeforetheywereovertakenandslaughtered。Thewomenandchildrenranon,twoorthreehundredyardsfurther,whentheywereovertakenandwiththeaidoftheIndianstheywereslaughtered。Seventeenindividualsonly,ofalltheemigrantparty,werespared,andtheywerelittlechildren,theeldestofthembeingonlysevenyearsold。Thus,onthe10thdayofSeptember,1857,wasconsummatedoneofthemostcruel,cowardlyandbloodymurdersknowninourhistory。”

ThenumberofpersonsbutcheredbytheMormonsonthisoccasionwasonehundredandtwenty。

Withunheard-oftemerityJudgeCradlebaughopenedhiscourtandproceededtomakeMormondomanswerforthemassacre。Andwhataspectacleitmusthavebeentoseethisgrimveteran,solitaryandaloneinhisprideandhispluck,gloweringdownonhisMormonjuryandMormonauditory,deridingthembyturns,andbyturns“breathingthreateningsandslaughter!“

AneditorialintheTerritorialEnterpriseofthatdaysaysofhimandoftheoccasion:

“HespokeandactedwiththefearlessnessandresolutionofaJackson;

butthejuryfailedtoindict,orevenreportonthecharges,whilethreatsofviolencewereheardineveryquarter,andanattackontheU。S。troopsintimated,ifhepersistedinhiscourse。

“Findingthatnothingcouldbedonewiththejuries,theyweredischargedwithascathingrebukefromthejudge。Andthen,sittingasacommittingmagistrate,hecommencedhistaskalone。Heexaminedwitnesses,madearrestsineveryquarter,andcreatedaconsternationinthecampsofthesaintsgreaterthananytheyhadeverwitnessedbefore,sinceMormondomwasborn。Atlastaccountsterrifiedeldersandbishopsweredecampingtosavetheirnecks;anddevelopmentsofthemoststarlingcharacterwerebeingmade,implicatingthehighestChurchdignitariesinthemanymurdersandrobberiescommittedupontheGentilesduringthepasteightyears。”

HadHarneybeenGovernor,Cradlebaughwouldhavebeensupportedinhiswork,andtheabsoluteproofsadducedbyhimofMormonguiltinthismassacreandinanumberofpreviousmurders,wouldhaveconferredgratuitouscoffinsuponcertaincitizens,togetherwithoccasiontousethem。ButCummingwastheFederalGovernor,andhe,underacuriouspretenseofimpartiality,soughttoscreentheMormonsfromthedemandsofjustice。OnoneoccasionheevenwentsofarastopublishhisprotestagainsttheuseoftheU。S。troopsinaidofCradlebaugh"sproceedings。

Mrs。C。V。Waiteclosesherinterestingdetailofthegreatmassacrewiththefollowingremarkandaccompanyingsummaryofthetestimony——andthesummaryisconcise,accurateandreliable:

“ForthebenefitofthosewhomaystillbedisposedtodoubttheguiltofYoungandhisMormonsinthistransaction,thetestimonyisherecollatedandcircumstancesgivenwhichgonotmerelytoimplicatebuttofastenconvictionuponthemby"confirmationsstrongasproofsofHolyWrit:"

“1。TheevidenceofMormonsthemselves,engagedintheaffair,asshownbythestatementsofJudgeCradlebaughandDeputyU。S。MarshallRodgers。

“2。ThefailureofBrighamYoungtoembodyanyaccountofitinhisReportasSuperintendentofIndianAffairs。Alsohisfailuretomakeanyallusiontoitwhateverfromthepulpit,untilseveralyearsaftertheoccurrence“3。TheflighttothemountainsofmenhighinauthorityintheMormonChurchandState,whenthisaffairwasbroughttotheordealofajudicialinvestigation。

“4。ThefailureoftheDeseretNews,theChurchorgan,andtheonlypaperthenpublishedintheTerritory,tonoticethemassacreuntilseveralmonthsafterward,andthenonlytodenythatMormonswereengagedinit。

“5。Thetestimonyofthechildrensavedfromthemassacre。

“6。ThechildrenandthepropertyoftheemigrantsfoundinpossessionoftheMormons,andthatpossessiontracedbacktotheverydayafterthemassacre。

“7。ThestatementsofIndiansintheneighborhoodofthesceneofthemassacre:thesestatementsareshown,notonlybyCradlebaughandRodgers,butbyanumberofmilitaryofficers,andbyJ。Forney,whowas,in1859,SuperintendentofIndianAffairsfortheTerritory。ToalltheseweresuchstatementsfreelyandfrequentlymadebytheIndians。

“8。ThetestimonyofR。P。Campbell,Capt。2dDragoons,whowassentintheSpringof1859toSantaClara,toprotecttravelersontheroadtoCaliforniaandtoinquireintoIndiandepredations。”

C。

CONCERNINGAFRIGHTFULASSASSINATIONTHATWASNEVERCONSUMMATED

Ifevertherewasaharmlessman,itisConradWiegand,ofGoldHill,Nevada。Ifevertherewasagentlespiritthatthoughtitselfunfiredgunpowderandlatentruin,itisConradWiegand。Ifevertherewasanoysterthatfancieditselfawhale;orajack-o"lantern,confinedtoaswamp,thatfancieditselfaplanetwithabillion-mileorbit;orasummerzephyrthatdeemeditselfahurricane,itisConradWiegand。

Therefore,whatwonderisitthatwhenhesaysathing,hethinkstheworldlistens;thatwhenhedoesathingtheworldstandsstilltolook;

andthatwhenhesuffers,thereisaconvulsionofnature?WhenImetConrad,hewas“SuperintendentoftheGoldHillAssayOffice“——andhewasnotonlyitsSuperintendent,butitsentireforce。Andhewasastreetpreacher,too,withamongrelreligionofhisowninvention,wherebyheexpectedtoregeneratetheuniverse。Thiswasyearsago。Herelatterlyhehasenteredjournalism;andhisjournalismiswhatitmightbeexpectedtobe:colossaltoear,butpigmytotheeye。Itisextravagantgrandiloquenceconfinedtoanewspaperaboutthesizeofadoublelettersheet。Hedoubtlessedits,setsthetype,andprintshispaper,allalone;buthedelightstospeakoftheconcernasifitoccupiesablockandemploysathousandmen。

[Somethinglessthantwoyearsago,Conradassailedseveralpeoplemercilesslyinhislittle“People"sTribune,“andgothimselfintotrouble。Straightwayheairstheaffairinthe“TerritorialEnterprise,“

inacommunicationoverhisownsignature,andIproposetoreproduceithere,inallitsnativesimplicityandmorethanhumancandor。Longasitis,itiswellworthreading,foritistherichestspecimenofjournalisticliteraturethehistoryofAmericacanfurnish,perhaps:]

FromtheTerritorialEnterprise,Jan。20,1870。

SEEMINGPLOTFORASSASSINATIONMISCARRIED。

TOTHEEDITOROFTHEENTERPRISE:Monthsago,whenMr。SutroincidentallyexposedminingmanagementontheComstock,andamongothersrousedmetoprotestagainstitscontinuance,ingreatkindnessyouwarnedmethatanyattemptbypublications,bypublicmeetingsandbylegislativeaction,aimedatthecorrectionofchronicminingevilsinStoreyCounty,mustentailuponme(a)businessruin,(b)theburdenofallitscosts,(c)

personalviolence,andifmypurposewerepersistedin,then(d)

assassination,andafterallnothingwouldbeeffected。

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