第1章

APPENDIX

INTRODUCTION。

IdonotintendtowriteahistoryofCyprus，asauthoritiesalreadyexistthatarewellknown，butweregenerallyneglecteduntiltheBritishoccupationrescuedthemfromsecludedbookshelves。EvenhadI

presumedtowriteasahistorian，thetaskwouldhavebeenimpossible，asIamatthismomentexcludedfromtheworldintheprecinctsofthemonasteryofTrooditissaamongtheheightsofancientOlympusormodernTroodos，wherebooksofreferenceareunknown，andthenecessarydatawouldbewanting。Ishallrecountmypersonalexperienceofthisislandasanindependenttraveller，unprejudicedbypoliticalconsiderations，andunfetteredbytheresponsiblepositionofanofficial。HavingexaminedCyprusineverydistrict，andpassednotonlyafewdays，butwinter，spring，andsummerintestingtheclimaticandgeographicalpeculiaritiesofthecountry，Ishalldescribe“CyprusasIsawitin1879，“expressingtheopinionswhichIformeduponthespotwiththeresultsofmyexperience。

AlthoughIhavereadmanyworksuponthisisland，IhavenobookswithmeexceptthatinterestingrecordofthediscoveryofantiquitiesbyGeneraldiCesnola，andtheinvaluablecompilationfortheIntelligenceBranch，Quartermaster-General"sDepartment，HorseGuards，byCaptainSavile，18thRoyalIrishRegiment。Itisimpossibletopraisethelatterworktoohighly，aseveryauthority，whetherancientormodern，hasbeenstudied，andtheinformationthuscarefullycollectedhasbeenclassedunderspecialheadingsandofferedtothereaderinaconciseandgraphicformwhichrendersitperfectasabookofreference。ImustexpressmydeepappreciationoftheassistancethatIhavederivedfromCaptainSavile"swork，asithasdirectedmyattentiontomanysubjectsthatmighthaveescapedmyobservation，andithasfurnishedmewithdates，consularreports，andotherstatisticalinformationthatwouldotherwisehavebeendifficulttoobtain。ThestudyofM。Gaudrey"sablereporttotheFrenchgovernmentupontheagriculturalresourcesandthegeologicalfeaturesofCyprus，beforeIcommencedmyjourney，guidedmemateriallyintheinterestingobservationsofthevariousformationsandterrestrialphenomena。TheexperiencesofthelateBritishConsul，Mr。

HamiltonLang，describedinhisattractivevolume，togetherwiththoseofVonLoher，DoctorsUngerandKotschy，haveaffordedmeanadvantageinfollowinguponfootstepsthroughawell-examinedfieldofdiscovery。

BeforeIenteruponadescriptionofmypersonalexaminationoftheisland，itwillbeadvisabletotraceabriefoutlineofthegeographicalpositionofCyprus，whichcauseditsearlyimportanceinthehistoryofthehumanrace，andwhichhasbeenacceptedbytheBritishgovernmentassufficientlyunchangedtowarrantamilitaryoccupationin1878，asastrategicalpointthatdominatestheeasternportionoftheMediterranean，andsuppliesthemissinglinkinthechainoffortifiedportsfromEnglandtotheshoresofEgypt。

Intheworld"sinfancyoceanswereunknownseasuponwhichthevesselsoftheancientsrarelyventuredbeyondthesightofland；withoutthecompasstheinterminablebluewaterwasaterriblewildernessfullofaweandwonder。ThePhoenicians，whofirstcircumnavigatedAfricabypassingthroughthethenexistingcanalbetweenSuezandtheNile，coastedthewholevoyage，asdidinlateryearsthefamousPortuguese，VascodiGama，andstationswereformedalongtheshoresatconvenientintervals。HannotheCarthaginiancoastedtoanuncertainandcontestedpointuponthewesternshoresofAfrica，butnooceancommercialportwasknowntohaveexistedintheearlydaysofmaritimeadventure。TheMediterraneanofferedpeculiaradvantagesofphysicalgeography；itsgreatlengthandcomparativelynarrowwidthembracedavastarea，atthesametimethatitaffordedspecialfacilitiesforcommerceinthenumerousportsandislandsthatwouldformarefugeinstressofweather。

Thecountrieswhichsurroundedthisgreatinlandseawererich；theclimatethroughoutitscoursecombinedthetemperatewithalmosttropical，accordingtothechangesofseasons；accordingly，theproductionsoftheearthvaryinguponthenorthernandsoutherncoasts，wereallthatcouldberequiredforthenecessitiesofthehumanrace。

Inthishappilysituatedpositioncommercewasfirstcradled，andbytheinterchangeofideasandnaturalproductions，artificialwantsweremutuallycreatedamongthevariouscountriesaroundthegreatseamargin；thesupplyofthesenewrequirementsandexchangeofcommoditiesestablishedtrade。Withthedevelopmentofcommerce，wealthandprosperityincreased；nationsbecameimportantthroughthepossessionofsuperiorharboursandgeographicalpositions，andtheentiremaritimestrengthandcommercialactivityoftheancientworldwasrepresentedbytheMediterranean。ThePhoeniciansofTyreandSidonweretheEnglishofto-day；theEgyptiansandtheGreekswerefollowedastheworldgrewolderbytheVenetiansandGenoese，andthroughouttheworld"shistorynopointpossessedamoreconstantandunchangeableattractionfromitsgeographicalpositionandnaturaladvantagesthantheislandofCyprus，whichinturnwasoccupiedbyPhoenicians，Greeks，Egyptians，Persians，Romans，Byzantinerulers，Saracens，Byzantinerulersagain，English，Lusignans，Venetians，Turks，andoncemoreEnglishin1878。

Theadvantageswhichhadthuspossessedamagneticinfluenceinattractingtowardsthisislandtheleadingnationsoftheworldwereinancientdaysundeniable。Whenvesselsdirectedtheircourseonlybywell-knownlandmarks，orbythepositionofcertainstars，itwashighlynecessaryforamaritimepowertooccupyacontinuouschainofstations，where，incaseofdangerfromasuperiorforce，aplaceofrefugewouldbenear。CyprusfromitspeculiargeographicalpositioncommandedtheeasternportionoftheMediterranean。TheharbourofFamagoustawasonlyafewhours"sail，withafavourablewind，tothecoastofAsiaMinor。

ThebaysofLarnacaandLimasolwereroadsteadswithasafeanchorage，andPaphos(Baffo)wasaconvenientharbouruponthesouth-westernportionoftheisland，capableofprotectingaconsiderablenumberofthesmallvesselsoftheperiod。ThusCypruspossessedtwoharboursuponthesouthcoastinadditiontogoodroadsteads；whileuponthenorth，Cerinea(Kyrenia)andSoli，althoughneverlarge，wereserviceableportsofrefuge，exactlyfacingthecoastofCaramania，plainlyvisible。TheloftymountainsoftheCarpasrangewhichoverhangtheseharbourscommandtheseaviewatanelevationofbetweenthreeandfourthousandfeet，fromwhichtheapproachofanenemycouldbequicklysignalled，whiletheunmistakablepeaksoftheruggedsky-lineformedlandmarksbywhichvesselscouldsteerdirecttothedesiredports。ThesameadvantageofdescryinganenemyatadistancefromtheshoreexistsinmanypartsofCyprus，owingtothepositionoftheheights；andtherockynatureofthecoast(withtheexceptionofafewpointssuchasLimasol，MorphuBay，&c。)，renderedthelandingofalargeforceextremelydifficult。Asastrategicalpoint，therewasnomoreformidablepositionthanCyprus；itformedacommoncentrewithinimmediatereachofAlexandriaandallthecoastsofSyriaandAsiaMinor。Itwasnotonlyamilitaryplaced"armes，suchasMaltaandGibraltarnoware，dependentuponmaritimesuperiorityforthenecessaryprovisions，butitwasacountryoflargearea，comprisingabout3500

squaremiles，withasoilofunboundedfertilityinahighstateofcultivation，apopulationsufficientlynumerousforallrequirementsoftheisland，andforestsoftimberthatwasingreatrequestforthearchitectandship-builder。Inadditiontothesenaturalsourcesofwealth，themineralproductionswerecelebratedfromtheearliesthistory，andthecopperofCypruswasusedbythePhoeniciansinthemanufactureoftheircelebratedbronze。

TheChittimwoodofScripture，importedtoSyriafromCyprus(theancientChittim)，wasprobablyaspeciesofcypressatthattimecomposingtheforestswhichornamentedaconsiderableportionofthesurface。Therearetwovarietiesofcypressintheisland：thatwhichwouldhavebeencelebratedgrowsuponthehighmountains，andattainsagirthoffromseventoninefeet，thewoodbeinghighlyaromatic，emittingaperfumeresemblingamixtureofsandal-woodandcedar；theothercypressisadwarfvarietythatseldomexceedstwentyfeetinheight，withamaximumcircumferenceoftwofeet；thisisatotallydifferentwood，andisintenselyhard，whiletheformeriseasilyworked，butdurable。ThederivationofthenameCyprushasbeensoughtforfrommanysources；andtheopinionsoftheauthoritiesdiffer。

Englishpeoplemayreflectthattheyalonespellandpronouncethewordas“Cyprus。“Thenameofthecypress-tree，whichatonetimeclothedthemountainsofthisformerlyverdantisland，ispronouncedbytheinhabitants“Kypresses，“whichapproximatescloselytothevariousappellationsofCyprusindifferentlanguages。TheGreeknameisKypros，anditisprobablethatasinancientdaysthe“chittim-wood“wassocalledfromthefactofitsexportfromChittim，thesamelinkmayremainunbrokenbetweenKyprosandthetreeKypresses。

ThegeographicaladvantageswhichIhaveenumeratedaresufficienttoexplaintheseriesofstrugglesforpossessiontowhichtheislandhasbeenexposedthroughoutitshistory；thetombsthathavebeenexamined，haverevealedthesecretsofthedead，andintherelicsofPhoenicians，Persians，Assyrians，Egyptians，andthelonglistofforeignvictors，wediscoverproofsoftheimportantpast，untilweatlengthtreaduponpre-historicalvestiges，andbecomelostinalabyrinthoflegends。Fromtheresearchesofundoubtedauthorities，weknowthatCypruspossessedawrittencharacterpeculiarlyoriginal，andthatitwasoccupiedbyapeoplehighlycivilisedaccordingtothestandardoftheearlyworldatsoprimitiveanera，thatallrecordshavedisappeared，andweareleftinthedarknessofconjecture。

Thechangesintheimportanceofcertaingeographicalpositions，owingtothedeclineandfallofempires，whichatonetimegovernedthedestiniesoftheEasternworld，havebeenstrikinglyexhibitedontheshoresoftheMediterranean；Tyre，Sidon，Carthage，Cyprus，hadlosttheirsignificanceuponmoderncharts，evenbeforetheNewWorldsappeared，whenAmerica，Australia，andtheEasternArchipelagowereintroducedupontheglobe。TheprogressofWesternEuropeeclipsedtheOrientalPowerswhichhithertorepresentedthecivilisationofmankind，andtwopointsaloneremained，which，shornoftheirancientglory，stillmaintainedtheiroriginalimportanceasgeographicalcentres，thatwillrenewthosestrugglesfortheirpossessionwhichfillthebloodypagesoftheirhistory——EgyptandConstantinople。

NocountryhadbeenmorecompletelyexcludedfromthebeatenpathsofBritishtravellersthantheislandofCyprus，andEnglandwasstartledbythesuddenrevelationofamysteryconnectedwiththeTreatyofBerlin，thatitwastobecomeastrategicalpointforaBritishmilitaryoccupation！

Onthe4thJune，1878，a“ConventionofDefensiveAlliancebetweenGreatBritainandTurkey“wassigned，whichagreeduponthefollowingarticles：-

ARTICLEI。

“IfBatoum，Ardahan，Kars，oranyofthem，shallberetainedbyRussia，orifanyattemptshallbemadeatanyfuturetimebyRussiatotakepossessionofanyfurtherterritoriesofHisImperialMajestytheSultaninAsia，asfixedbythedefinitivetreatyofpeace，EnglandengagestojoinHisImperialMajestytheSultanindefendingthembyforceofArms。

“Inreturn，HisImperialMajestytheSultanpromisestoEnglandtointroducenecessaryreforms，tobeagreeduponlaterbetweenthetwoPowers，intothegovernment，andfortheprotectionoftheChristianandothersubjectsofthePorteinthoseterritories；andinordertoenableEnglandtomakenecessaryprovisionforexecutingherengagement，HisImperialMajestytheSultanfurtherconsentstoassigntheislandofCyprustobeoccupiedandadministeredbyEngland。

ARTICLEII。

“ThepresentConventionshallberatified，andtheratificationsthereofshallbeexchanged，withinthespaceofonemonth，orsoonerifpossible。

“InwitnesswhereoftherespectivePlenipotentiarieshavesignedthesame，andhaveaffixedtheretothesealoftheirarms。

“DoneatConstantinople，thefourthdayofJune，intheyearonethousandeighthundredandseventy-eight。

“A。H。LAYARD。

“SAFVET。“

ItwaseventuallyagreedbetweenthecontractingPowers：-

“ThatEnglandwillpaytothePortewhateveristhepresentexcessofrevenueoverexpenditureintheisland；thisexcesstobecalculatedanddeterminedbytheaverageofthelastfiveyears。“

and：——

“ThatifRussiarestorestoTurkeyKarsandtheotherconquestsmadebyherinArmeniaduringthelastwar，theislandofCypruswillbeevacuatedbyEngland，andtheConventionofthefourthJune，1878，willbeatanend。“

IknewnothingofCyprus，butIfeltsurethattheTurkshadthebestofthebargain，astheywouldreceivetheusualsurplusrevenuefromourhands，andbesavedthetroubleandonusofthecollection；theywouldalsobecertainofafixedannualsum，withoutanyofthoserisksofdroughts，famine，andlocusts，towhichtheislandisexposed，andwhichseriouslyaffecttheincome。

AlthoughtherewouldonlybeawildlyremotechanceofRussiaeverrelinquishingherAsiaticprey，thebarementionofthewords“willbeevacuatedbyEngland“wasapossiblecontingencyandrisk，thatwouldeffectuallyexcludeallBritishcapitalfrominvestmentintheisland。I

couldnotdiscoveranypossiblegoodthatcouldaccruetoEnglandbythetermsoftheConvention。IfCyprushadbeenpresentedasa“bonus“bythePortetocounterbalancetheriskweshouldincurinadefensivealliancefortheprotectionofAsiaMinor，IcouldhaveseenanadditiontoourColonialEmpireofavaluableisland，thatwouldnotonlyhavebeenofstrategicalvalue，butsuchthatinafewyears，moneyandBritishsettlerswouldhaveentirelychangeditspresentaspect，andhavecreatedforitaneweraofprosperity。

IfEnglandhadpurchasedCyprus，Icouldhaveunderstoodtheplain，straightforward，business-liketransaction，whichwouldhaveatonceestablishedconfidence，bothamongtheinhabitants，whowouldhavebecomeBritishsubjects；andthroughtheouterworld，thatwouldhaveacknowledgedthecommencementofagreatfuture。

But，ifwewereactuallyboundindefensivealliancewithTurkeyincaseofawarwithRussia，whyshouldweoccupyCyprusuponsuchone-sidedandanomalousconditions，thatwouldfrustrateallhopesofcommercialdevelopment，forthesakeofobtainingastrategicalpositionthatwouldhavebeenopenedtoouroccupationASANALLYatanymoment？Ontheotherhand，ifwedistrustedTurkey，andfearedthatshemightcoquetwithRussiaatsomefutureperiod，IcouldseeaparamountnecessityfortheoccupationofCyprus，andevenEgypt；butweweresupposedtobe，andIbelievewere，actinginabsoluteandmutualgoodfaithastheprotectorofAsiaticTurkey，indefensivealliancewiththeSultan。Inthatposition，shouldwehaveenteredintoawarwithRussia，therewasnonecessityfortheoccupationandresponsibilityofanynewposition，aseveryportoftheOttomandominions，eventotheGoldenHornofConstantinople，wouldhavewelcomedourtroopsandboatswithenthusiasm。

TurkeyisasuspiciousPower，andtheBritishgovernmentmayhavehadtocontendwithdifficultiesthatareunknowntothecriticisingpublic；itmayhavebeenimpossibletohaveobtainedhersanctionfortheoccupationunderotherconditions。Thepossibilityoffuturecomplicationsthatmightterminateinaclosealliancebetweentheconqueredandthevictor，mayhavesuggestedthenecessityforsecuringthismostimportantstrategicalpositionwithoutdelay，uponfirstconditionsthatmightsubsequentlyreceivemodifications。Atfirstsightthepoliticalsituationappearedvague，butIdeterminedtoexaminethephysicalgeographyofCyprus，andtoformmyownopinionofitscapabilities。

CYPRUSASISAWITIN1879。

CHAPTER1。

ARRIVALATLARNACA。

Onthemorningofthe4thJanuarywesightedCyprusataboutfiftymilesdistance，afterasmoothvoyageoftwenty-sixhoursfromAlexandria。Thedaywasfavourableforanarrival，astheatmosphericalconditionaffordedbothintenselightsandshadows。Theskywasacobaltblue，butuponallpointsofthecompasslocalrain-cloudshoveredindarkpatchesnearthesurface，andemptiedthemselvesinheavyshowers。Theairwasextremelyclear，andaswesteamedattenknotseachhourbroughtoutinprominentreliefthemountainpeaksofCyprus；Olympuswascappedwithclouds。Passingthrougharain-cloudwhichforatimeobscuredtheview，weatlengthemergedintobrightsunshine；themistshadclearedfromthemountainrange，andTroodos，6，400feetabovethesea-level，toweredaboveallcompetitors。

Wewerenowabouttenmilesfromtheshore，andthegeneralappearanceoftheislandsuggestedarecentsnowfall。Asthesunshoneuponabarewhitesurface，thesterileslopesandmountainsideswereutterlydevoidofvegetation，andpresentedasadaspectofdesolation，whichremindedmeofthebarrenrangeontheshoresoftheRedSea。

Firstimpressionsareseldomcorrect，buttheviewofCyprusonarrivalfromthesouthwasdepressing，andextinguishedallhopesthathadbeenformedconcerningournewly-acquiredpossession。Thiswasthetreasureacquiredbyastutediplomacy！

Forabouttwentymilesweskirtedthismiserablecoast，uponwhichnotagreenspeckrelievedtheeye；atlengthwesightedtheminaretwhichmarkedthepositionofLarnaca，theportorroadsteadtowhichthemailwasbound；andinthetownwedistinguishedthreeorfourgreentrees。

Wecastanchorabouthalfamilefromtheshore。Nineortenvessels，includingseveralsteamers，wereintheroadstead，andanumberoflighterswereemployedinlandingcargoes。

Disappointmentanddisgustwerequicklybanishedbythereflectionthatatthisseason(January)therewasnothinggreeninEngland：thethermometerinthatdrearylandwouldbebelowfreezing-point，whileonthedeckwherewestooditwas64degreesFahr。Wewerequicklyinaboatsteeringforthelanding-place。

Alltownslooktolerablywellfromthesea，especiallyifsituatedactuallyuponthemarginofthewater。Thetownrepresentedafrontofaboutamile，lessthanfivefeetabovethelevelofthesea，borderedbyamasonryquayperpendiculartothesurface，fromwhichseveralwoodenjettiesofinferiorandveryrecentconstructionservedaslanding-places。

TheleftflankofLarnacawasboundedbyasmallTurkishfort，absolutelyuselessagainstmodernartilleryuponthewallstheBritishflagwasfloating。Welandeduponthequay。Thisformedastreet，theseaupononeside，facedbyarowofhouses。AswithallTurkishpossessions，decayhadstampedthetown：themasonryofthequaywasinmanyplacesbrokendown，thewaveshadunderminedcertainhouses，andintheholesthuswashedoutbytheactionofwaterwereaccumulationsofrecentfilth。Nevertheless，enormousimprovementshadtakenplacesincetheEnglishoccupation。Anengineerwasalreadyemployedinrepairingthequay，andlargeblocksofcarefullyfacedstone(asedimentarylimestonerockofveryrecentformation)werebeinglaiduponabedofconcretetoformapermanentsea-wall。Thehouseswhichlinedthequaywereforthemostpartstores，warehouses，andliquor-shops。AmongthesetheCustomHouse，theClub，PostOffice，andChiefCommissioner"swereprominentassuperiorbuildings。TherewasapeculiarcharacterintheinterioreconomyofnearlyallhousesinLarnaca；itappearedthatheavytimbermusthavebeenscarcebeforethetownwasbuilt，astheupperfloorwasinvariablysupportedbystonearchesofconsiderablemagnitude，whichsprangfromtheground-floorlevel。Thesearcheswereuniformthroughoutthetown，andthebaseofthearchwastheactualground，withoutanypillarorcolumnarsupport；sothatintheabsenceofapowerfulbeamoftimber，thetopoftheone-spanarchformedasupportforthejoistsofthefloorabove。Inlargehousesnumerousarchesgaveanimposingappearancetothearchitectureofthegroundfloors，whichweregenerallyusedaswarehouses。Eventhewoodenjoistswereimportedpolesoffir，thusprovingthescarcityofnaturalforests。Theroofsofthehouseswereforthemostpartflat，andcoveredwithtemperedclayandchoppedstrawforthethicknessofaboutteninches。Somebuildingsofgreaterpretensionsweregaudyinbrightredtiles，butallwerealikeinthegeneralwasteofrain-water，whichwassimplyallowedtopourintothenarrowstreetsthroughinnumerablewoodenshootsprojectingaboutsixfeetbeyondtheeaves。Thesegutterswouldbeaseriousobstacletowheeledconveyances，suchasloftywaggons，whichwouldbeunableinmanycasestopassbeneath。Thestreetsarepaved，butbeingdevoidofsubterraneandrains，aheavyshowerwouldconvertthemintopools。Footpassengersareprotectedfromsuchaccidentsbyastonefootwayaboutsixteenincheshighuponeithersideofthenarrowstreet。BeforetheEnglishoccupationthesehollowlanesweremerelyheapsoffilth，whichcausedgreatunhealthiness；theywerenowtolerablyclean；butinmostcasesthepavementwasfullofholesthatwouldhavetestedthespringsandwheelsofmodernvehicles。

Ihadheard，priortoleavingEngland，thathotels，inns，&c。，wereunknowninLarnaca；Iwas，therefore，agreeablysurprisedonlanding，tofindanewhotel(Craddock"s)whichwasscrupulouslyclean，theroomsneatlywhitewashed，andeverythingsimpleandinaccordancewiththerequirementsofthecountry。

ThemiserablereportsinEnglandrespectingthewantofaccommodation，andtheunhealthinessofCyprus，haddeterminedmetorendermyselfindependent；Ihadthereforearrangedagipsytravelling-vanwhileinLondon，whichwould，asahutuponwheels，enableustoselectadesirableresting-placeinanyportionoftheisland，wheretherouteshouldbepracticableforwheeledconveyances。Thisvanwasfurnishedwithapermanentbed；shelvesorwardrobebeneath；achestofdrawers；

tabletofallagainstthewallwhennotinuse，lockersforglassandcrockery，stoveandchimney，andinfactitresembledaship"scabin，ninefeetsixincheslong，byfivefeeteightincheswide。

Ihadanotherexcellentlightfour-wheeledvanconstructedbyMessrs。

GloverBrothers，ofDeanStreet，Soho：boththesevehicleshadbroadandthickirontirestothewheels，whichprojected5/8inchuponeithersidebeyondthefelloes，inordertoaffordawidesurfacetodeepsoilorsandygroundwithoutnecessitatingatoomassivewheel。

ThevanswithallmyeffectshadleftLondonbysteamerdirectforCyprus，Ithereforefoundthem，uponmyarrivalfromEgypt，inthechargeofMr。Z。Z。Williamson，amostactiveagentandperfectpolyglot；thelattergiftbeinganextremeadvantageinthiscountryofBabel-likeconfusionoftongues。

IwasnowpreparedtoinvestigateCyprusthoroughly，andtoformmyownopinionofitspresentandfuturevalue。

ThedayaftermyarrivalIstrolledoutsidethetownandexercisedmythreespanielswhichhadcomeoutdirectfromEngland。Thedogssearchedforgamewhichtheydidnotfind，whileIexaminedthegeneralfeaturesofthecountry。Aboutthree-quartersofamilefromthepresenttownorportaretheremainsofoldLarnaca。Thisisamerevillage，butpossessesalargeGreekchurch。ThetombofLazarus，whoisbelievedtohavesettledinCyprustoavoidpersecutionafterhismiraculousresurrectionfromthegrave，istobeseeninthechurchofSt。Georgewithintheprincipaltown。

Fromthispointanexcellentviewisobtainedoftheadjacentcountry。A

plainofmostfertilesoilextendsalongthesea-coasttowardstheeastforsixmiles，andinbreadthaboutfourmiles。ThepresenttownofLarnacastandsonthesea-boardofthisplain，whichtothewestoftheportcontinuesforaboutfourmiles，thusgivinganareaofsometenmilesinlength，formingalmostahalfcircleoffourmilesinitssemi-diameter；thewholeiscircumscribedbyhillsoflowbutincreasingaltitudes，allutterlybarren。Throughtheplainaretwounmistakableevidencesofriver-actionwhichatsomeremoteperiodhadwasheddownfromthehighergroundthefertiledepositwhichhasformedthealluviumofthevalley。Withinthisapparentlylevelplainisavestigeofaoncehigherlevel，thebordersofwhichhavebeendenudedbythecontinualactionofrunningwaterduringtherushesfromthemountainsintherainyseason。Thiswateractionhaslongceasedtoexist。Therecanbelittledoubtthatintheancientdaysofforest-coveredmountains，therainfallofCypruswasfargreaterthanatpresent，andthatimportanttorrentssweptdownfromthehill-sides。Weseeevidencesofthisintheroundedblocks，allwater-worn，ofsyeniteandgneiss，whichareintermingledwiththebitsofbrokenpotteryinthevale，alikerelicsofthepastandprovingthechangesbothinnatureandinmansinceCypruswasinthezenithofprosperity。

Alevelplateauabouteighteenfeetabovethelowestleveloftheplainshowstheoriginalsurface。Thesoiloftheentirevalleyiscalcareous，andiseminentlyadaptedforthecultivationofthevineandcereals。Astherainhaspercolatedthroughtheground，ithasbecomesothoroughlyimpregnatedwithsulphateoflimethatithasdepositedaseriesofstratasomesixorsevenfeetbelowthesurface，whichformaflakysubterraneanpavement。Theancientsselectedthisshallowsoilofahigherlevelforaburial-ground，andtheyburrowedbeneaththestratumofstonydeposittoformtheirtombs。OneofthechiefoccupationsofmodernCypriotesappearstobethedespoilingofthedead；thustheentiresidesoftheplateau-faceforadistanceofabouttwomilesareburrowedintothousandsofholestoadepthoftenandtwelvefeetinsearchofhiddentreasures。Ifthesameamountoflabourhadbeenexpendedinthetillageofthesurface，theresultwouldhavebeenfarmoreprofitable。Asmallproportionofthelandupontheoutskirtsofthetownwascultivated，somehadbeenrecentlyploughed，whileinotherplotsthewheathadappearedabovethesurface。Waterisgenerallyfoundateightorninefeetbelowthelevel，butthisisofaninferiordescription，andthetownandenvironsarewellsuppliedbyanaqueductwhichconveysthewaterfrompowerfulspringsaboutsevenmilestothewestofLarnaca，nearArpera。Thisusefulworkwasconstructedaccordingtothewillofaformerpacha，whobequeathedthesumrequired，forapublicbenefit。

Largeflocksofsheepweregrazinginvariousportionsoftheuncultivatedplain。Atfirstsighttheyappearedtobeonlysearchingforfoodamongthestonesanddust，butuponcloseexaminationIfoundapeculiarfleshyherbsomethinglikethestone-cropwhichgrowsupontheoldwallsandrocksofEngland。Thisplantwasexceedinglysalt，andthesheepdevoureditwithavidity，andwereinfaircondition。Thewoolwaslong，butofacoarsewirytexture，andmuchimpairedbytheadherenceofthistlesandotherpricklyplants。Themusicalsoundofdistantbellsdenotedthearrivalofalongstringofcamels，ladenwithimmensebalesofunpressedcottonontheirwaytotheportofLarnaca。Eachanimalcarriedtwobales，andIobservedthatthesaddlesandpadswereinexcellentorder，thecamelswellfed，andstronglycontrastingwiththecruelcarelessnessofthecamelownersofEgypt，whosebeastsaregalledintoterriblesoresfromthewantofpaddingintheirpacks。Thecottonhadbeencleanedupontheplantation，butitwouldbesubjectedtohydraulicpressureandpackedintheusualiron-boundbalesforshipment，uponarrivalinthestoresofLarnaca。

Itwasimpossibletoresistafeelingofdepressionuponstrollingaroundtheenvironsofthetownandregardingthebarrenaspectofthedistantcountry。Everyinchofthisfertileplainshouldbecultivated，andnumerousvillagesshouldbedottedupontheextensivesurface。

“Thornsalsoandthistlesshallitbringforth“wasacursethatappearedtohaveadheredtoCyprus。

Itwasunnecessarytoseekforthechiefcauseofunhealthiness；thiswasatonceapparentinthelowswampsontheimmediateoutskirtsofthetown。InancientdaystheshallowharbourofCittiumexistedontheeastsideofmodernLarnaca；whetherfromasiltingoftheport，orfromthegradualalterationintheleveloftheMediterranean，theoldharbournolongerexists，butisconvertedintoamiserableswamp，borderedbyaraisedbeachofshinglesupontheseaboard。Theearthhasbeensweptdownbytherains，andthesanddriveninbythesea，whilemanstoodidlyby，allowingNaturetodestroyaformerindustry。Alltheoriginalharboursofthecountryhavesufferedfromthesameneglect。

Therewaslittletobeseenintheneighbourhood。ThesitewaspointedoutwherethetroopswereencampedinthetremendousheatofJulyintheclosevicinityoftheswampyground，uponpestiferoussoil，andtheusualtalesofcommissariatblunderswererecounted。Closetothebordersofthisunhealthyspot，butabouttwentyfeetabovethelevelofthelowestmorass，standstheconventbelongingtotheSistersofCharity，whichincludesaschool，inadditiontoahospital。GreatkindnesswasshownbytheseexcellentladiestomanyEnglishsufferers，andtheirestablishmentdeservesaliberalsupportfrompubliccontributions。

IwalkedthroughthebazaarofLarnaca；thisissituatedatthewestendofthetownnearthefort，closetowhichthereisapublicfountainsuppliedbytheaqueducttowhichIhavealreadyalluded。Brasstapswerearrangedaroundthecoveredstonereservoir，butIremarkedadistressingwasteofwater，asacontinualflowescapedfromanuncontrolledshootwhichpouredinalargevolumeuselesslyintothestreet。Withinafewyardsofthereservoirwasasolitaryoldbaniantree(ficusreligiosa)，aroundwhichacrowdofdonkeyswaited，ladenwithpannierscontaininglargeearthenjars，whichintheirturnweretobefilledwiththepurewateroftheArperasprings。

Althoughthecrowdwaslarge，andallwerebusiedinfillingtheirjarsandloadingtheirrespectiveanimals，therewasnojostlingorquarrellingforprecedence，buteveryindividualwasapatternofpatienceandgoodhumour。MohammedansandCypriotesthrongedtogetherinthesameemployment，andtheorderlybehaviourintheabsenceofpolicesupervisionformedastrongcontrasttothecrowdsinEngland。

TheMosquebeingwithinafewfeetofthem，theMussulmanscouldperformtheirablutionsatthethreshold。Aroundthefont，womenwereintermingledwithacrowdofmenandboys。Thegirlsandladswereregularinfeaturesandgood-looking，thoughdirtandtornclothingofvariousgaudycoloursgaveapicturesque，buthardlyanattractive，appearancetothegroup。Thebazaarwasenteredatrightangleswiththequay；thestreetswerepavedwithstonesofirregularsize，slopingfrombothsidestowardsthecentre，whichformedthegutter。Camels，mules，bullock-carts，andtheomnipresentdonkeysthrongedthenarrowstreets，eitherladenwithproduceforthequay，orreturningafterhavingdeliveredtheirheavyloads。Thedonkeyswereverylargeandweremostlydarkbrown，withconsiderablelengthofhair。Inlikemannerwiththecamels，theywerecarefullyprotectedbythickandwellstuffedpacks，orsaddles，andwereaccordinglyfreefromsores。Theyappearedtobeexceedinglydocileandintelligent，anddidnotrequiretheincessantbelabouringtowhichtheassofothercountriesisthevictim。Largedrovesoftheseanimals，eachladenwiththreeheavysquaredstonesforbuilding，pickedtheirwaythroughthenarrowstreets，andseemedtoknowexactlythespacerequiredfortheirpanniers，astheynevercollidedwitheithercartsorpassengers。

Theshopsofthebazaarwereallopen，andcontainedthesuppliesusuallyseeninTurkishmarkets——vegetables，meat，andapredominanceofnativesweetsandconfectionery，inadditiontostoresofgroceries，andofcopperandbrassutensils。Anabsenceoffishprovedthegeneralindolenceofthepeople；thereisabundanceinthesea，buttherearefewfishermen。

Anhour"sstrollwasquitesufficientforonetoformanopinionofLarnaca。Agoodroadsteadandsafeanchorageoffergreatadvantages，butuntilsomeprotectionshallbeaffordedthatwillenableboatstolandinallweathersLarnacacanneverbeacceptedasaport。Thereisshoalwaterforadistanceofabouttwohundredyardsfromtheshore，whichcausesaviolentsurfeveninamoderatebreeze，andfrequentlypreventsallcommunicationwiththeshipping。Thequaywasinmanyplacesunderminedbytheactionofthewaves，anditwouldbenecessarytocreateanentirelynewfrontbysinkingafoundationforasea-wallsomeyardsinadvanceofthepresentface。Therewouldbenoengineeringdifficultyintheformationofaboat-harbour，tocombinebyextensivepile-jettiesthefacilityoflandinginallweathers。AverycursoryviewofLarnacaexhibitedatruepictureofitsmiserablefinancialposition。ThenumerousstoreskeptbyEuropeansweretheresultofaspasmodicimpulse。Therewasnowholesometrade；thosewhorepresentedthecommercialelementwereforthemostpartunfortunateswhohadrushedtoCyprusatthefirstintelligenceoftheBritishoccupation，stronginexpectationsofagoldenharvest。ThesuddenwithdrawalofthelargemilitaryforceleftLarnacaintheconditionofstreetsfullofsellers，butdenudedofbuyers。Thestoresweresuppliedwiththeusualamountofliquors，andtinsofpreservedprovisions；noneoftheimportedarticleswereadaptedfornativerequirements；anutterstagnationoftradewastheconsequence，andpricesfellbelowthecostofhomeproduction。Theprecedingyearhadbeenexceptionallysickly；

manyofthestorekeepersweresufferingfromtheeffectsoffever，which，combinedwiththedepressionofspiritscausedbyruinedprospects，producedaconditionoftotalcollapse，fromwhichtherewasonlyonerelief——thatofwritingtothenewspapersandabusingtheGovernmentandtheislandgenerally。

Theremustalwaysbemartyrs——somebodymustbesacrificed——whetherburntatthestakeforreligiousprinciples，orputinabell-tentinthesunwiththethermometerat110degreesFahr。simplybecausetheyareBritishsoldiers——itdoesnotmuchmatter——butthemomentyourmerchantsareslainuponthealtar，theboiling-pointisreached。

Thestore-keeperssatdespondinglybehindtheircounterswhilethehingesoftheirdoorsrustedfromtheabsenceofin-comers。Itwasimpossibletorousethemfromtheirstateofmercantilecoma，exceptbyoneword，whichhadamagneticeffectupontheirnervoussystem——“CustomHouse。“

“IsupposeyouhavenodifficultyattheCustomHouse，Mr——inthissimpleisland？”Thiswasinvariablytheredragtothebull。

“Nodifficulty，Sir！——nodifficulty？——itisTHEdifficulty——weareabsolutelyparalysedbytheCustomHouse。Everyboxisbrokenopenandthecontentsstrewedupontheground。Thedutyisadvaloremuponallarticles，andanignorantTurkisthevaluer。Thismandoesnotknowthedifferencebetweenabootjackandalemon-squeezer：onlytheotherdayhevaluedwiredish-coversas`articlesofhead-dress，"(probablyhehadseenwirefencing-masks)。Ifheisperplexed，heisobligedtoreferthequestionablearticletotheChiefOffice，——thisistwohundredyardsfromthelandingplace：——thushepasseshalfthedayinrunningbackwardsandforwardswithtriflesofcontestedvaluetohissuperior，whilecrowdsarekeptwaiting，andthestoreispiledwithgoodsmosturgentlyrequired。“……

IimmediatelywenttoseethiseccentricrepresentativeofAnglo-Turkishpolitical-and-mercantile-combination，andfoundverylittleexaggerationinthedescription，exceptthatthedistancewas187pacesinsteadof200whichhehadtoperform，wheneverthecharacterofthearticlewasbeyondthesphereofhisexperience。Asthishappenedabouteveryquarterofanhour，hecouldnotcomplainofasedentaryemployment。Afewdaysafterthis，migratorybirdsarrivedinCyprusupontheinhospitableshoreoppositetheCustomHouseintheshapeoftwoLiberalM。P"s。fromEngland，——whovisitedtheislandspeciallytoformanhonestopinionfreefromallpoliticalbias。WhetherthesegentlemenwereundervaluedbytheeccentricofficialtowhomIhavealluded，orwhetherhesuspectedLiberalsasopponentstoberegardedandtreatedasspies，wenevercoulddetermine；bututterlydisregardingtheirinnocentexterior，hesubjectedthemtotheextremetortureoftheCustomHouse，anddivedandplungedintotheverybowelsandbottomsoftheirnumeroussmallpackages，rumplingcleanlinen，andproducingatoiletticchaos。TothehonourofthesemembersoftheOppositiontheyneverbroughtthequestionbeforetheHouseupontheirreturntoEngland，neitherdidtheymakeitthefoundationofanattackupontheGovernment。

Anexcessofzealisnotuncommonamongignorantofficialsnewlyraisedtoapositionofauthority：thusLarnacawasoutdonebytheCustomHouserepresentativeatLimasolinvigilanceandstrictattentiontotheadministrativetorturesofhisoffice。Ihaveheardofcasesofcrockerybeingunpackeduponthebeachandspreadouttobecountedandvaluedupontheloosestonesofshingle！

TheunfortunateEuropeantradersofLarnacawereshortlyrelievedoftheirCustomHousetroublesbythetotalabsenceofimports。ThenativeCypriotedoesnotpurchaseatEuropeanshops；hiswantsarefew；thesmallestpieceofsoapwilllastanindefiniteperiod；heisfrugaltoanextremedegree；andifhehasdesires，hecurbssuchtemptationsandhoardshiscoin。Thus，asthenativesdidnotpurchase，andallEuropeansweresellerswithoutbuyers，therewasnoalternativebuttoshuttheshutters。ThiswasaspeciesofcommercialsuicidewhichmadeLarnacaaplaceofdepartedspirits；inwhichunhappystateitremainstothepresenthour。Eventheclubwasclosed。

CHAPTERII。

THEGIPSY-VANSENCOUNTERDIFFICULTIES。

Mygipsy-vanwasnotofdoubtfulcharacter。IhadpurchaseditdirectfromthegipsiesinEngland，andithadbeenspeciallyarrangedfortheCyprusjourneybyMessrs。GloverBros。ofDeanStreet，Soho，London。Ithadbeenpaintedandvarnishedwithmanycoatsbothinsideandout，andnobody，unlessanexperiencedgipsy，wouldhaveknownthatitwasnotnewlybornfromthemaker"syard。Originallyithadbeenconstructedforshafts，asonehorsewasconsideredsufficientupontheroadsofEngland，butwhenitarrivedinCyprusitappearedtohavegrownduringthevoyageabouttwosizeslargerthanwhenitwaslastseen。AsthesmallanimalsofLarnacapassedby，wheremylovelyvanblockeduptheentirestreet，andforcedthelittlecreaturesuponthefootpath，theylookedincomparisonasthoughtheyhadjustbeendisembarkeduponMountAraratfromtheoriginalNoah"sark，representedbythegipsy-van！TheCypriotesarepolite，thereforeIheardnoruderemarks。TheCyprioteboysarelikeallotherboys，thereforetheyclimbedtothetopofthevan，andendeavouredbyescaladetoenterthewindows。OnoneoccasionI

capturedHALFABOY(theposteriorhalf)whowashangingwithlegsdanglingoutofthewindow，his“forlorn-hope“oradvancehalfvainlyendeavouringtoobtainaresting-placeuponvacuitywithin(asthefallslab-tablewasdown)。Ihadnostick；butthetoesofhisbootshadimprintedfirstimpressionsuponthefaultlessvarnish。WhatbecameofthatyoungCypriotewasneverknown。

EveninCyprustherearemunicipallaws，andnowthattheEnglisharetheretheyareenforced；thereforemyhugevancouldnotremainlikeawadinagun-barrel，andentirelyblockthestreet。ALondonpolicemanwouldhavedesireditto“moveon“but——thiswastherealgrievancethatIhadagainstLarnaca——thevanCOULDNOT“MOVEON，“owingtoitsextremeheight，whichinterferedwiththewoodenwater-spoutsfromthelowroofsoftheflat-toppedhouses。Thiswasacaseof“realdistress。“

Myvanrepresentedcivilisation：thewater-spoutsrepresentedbarbarism。

IfaLondonomnibuscrowdedwithoutsidepassengershadattemptedtodrivethroughLarnaca，bothdriverandpassengerswouldhavebeensweptintoIhavenottheslightestnotionwhere；andmyvanwastwofeethigherthananomnibus！

IdeterminedthatIwouldavoidallinferiorthoroughfares，andthatthevanshouldpassdownWolseleyStreet，drawnbyanumberofmenwhowouldbesuperiorinintelligencetotheCypriotemulesandbecarefulinturningthecorners。

Ididnotseethestart，asapersonwithan“excessofzeal“hadstarteditwithacrowdofmadmenwithoutorders，andIwasonlyalatespectatorsomehoursafteritsarrivaloppositeCraddock"sHotel。Itratherresembledashipthathadbeeninbadweatherandincollisionwithafewsteamers。Howmanywater-spoutsithadcarriedawayIneverheard。Thefore-axlewasbroken，asitappearedthatinroundingacornerithadbeendraggedbymainforceuponthecurbstoneaboutsixteenincheshigh，fromwhichithadbumpedviolentlydown。Ithadthenbeenbackedagainstawater-spout，whichhadgonecompletelythroughwhatsailorswouldtermthe“stern。“Oneshutterwassplitintwopieces，andonewindowsmashed。Altogether，whatwithbruises，scratches，brokenaxle，andotherdamages，myvanlookedtenyearsoldersincethemorning。

FortunatelyamongtheEuropeanswhohadflockedtoCyprussincetheBritishoccupationwasaFrenchblacksmith，whoseforgewasonlyafewyardsfromCraddock"sHotel，wheremywreckedvesselblockedtheway。I

hadanewforeaxle-treemade，andstrengthenedthehinderaxle。Ialsofittedabullock-pole，insteadofshafts，forapairofoxen；thespringsIboundupwithironwireshrunkonwhilered-hot。Itookoutthestove，asitwasnotnecessary，anditsabsenceincreasedthespace；

andIinsertedaventilatorintheroofinplaceofthechimney。Whenrepaired，thevanlookedasgoodasnew，andwasmuchstronger，andwelladaptedforroughtravel。TheonlythingitnowwantedwasaROAD！

ThehighwaysofCyprusweremeremule-tracks。Theonlylegitimateroadinexistencewasofmostrecentconstruction，whichrepresentedthenewbirthofBritishenterprise，fromLarnacatothecapital，Nicosia(orLefkosia)，abouttwenty-eightmiles。Theregrettablepaucityofstone-hammersrendereditimpossibletopreparethemetal，thereforehugeroundedblocks，biggerthanaman"shead，hadbeenthrowndownforafoundation，uponwhichsomeroughlybrokenandaquantityofunbrokensmallerstoneshadbeenspread。

Ofcoursetherewasonlyonemethodoftravellinguponthisroutewiththegipsy-van：thiswastoavoiditaltogether，buttokeepuponthenaturalsoilonthesideofthenewly-madelevel。

Mysecondvanwasmostsatisfactory，andwaslightinproportiontoitsstrengthandcapacity。Thiswasarrangedspeciallyforluggage，andwasentirelyclosedbydoorsateitherend，whichweresecuredbyboltsandlocks。Abovetheluggage，andabouttwofeetsixinchesbelowtheroof，aslidingdeckformedofmovableplanksaffordedacomfortablesleeping-berthforaservant。Inthefrontaprojectingroofshelteredthedrivingseat，whichwaswideenoughtoaccommodatefourpersons。I

hadfittedapoleinsteadofshafts，aspublicopiniondecidedagainstmules，anditwasagreedthatoxenweresteadierandmorepowerfulfordraughtpurposes。Afteracarefulselection，Iobtainedtwopairsofverybeautifulanimals，quiteequalinsizetoordinaryEnglishoxen，forwhichIpaidtwelveshillingsperdiem，includingthedriversandallexpensesoffodder。Ialsoengagedthenecessaryridingmules，asthevanswerenotintendedforpersonaltravelling，butmerelyforluggageandforahomeatnight。OurservantsconsistedofAmarn(myAbyssinian，whohadbeenwithmeeightyears，sincehewasaaboyofnineyearsoldinAfrica)，aGreekcooknamedChristo，whohadservedinasimilarcapacityuponnumeroussteamers，andayoungmannamedGeorgi，ofabouttwenty-one，whowastobemadeintoaservant。Thisyoungfellowhadappearedonedaysuddenly，andsolicitedemployment，whilewewerestayingatCraddock"sHotel；hewasshort，thickset，andpossessedaheadofhairthatwouldhaveraisedtheenvyofAbsalom：indensetangleitwouldhavedefiedamane-comb。Georgihadapleasantexpressionofcountenancewhichdidnotharmonisewithhisexterior，ashisclotheswereinaraggedandfilthycondition，hisshoeswereintatters，andtroddendownattheheeltoadegreethatresembledboatsintheactofcapsizing；theseexposedtheremnantsofsocks，throughthegapsofwhichtheskinofhisfeetwasexhibitedinanythingbutflesh-colour。Itisdangeroustopickupa“waifandstray，“assuchobjectsofphilanthropyfrequentlydisappearatthesametimeastheforksandspoons。Inreplytomyquestions，IdiscoveredthatGeorgiwasinfactthe“prodigalson；“hehadnotbeenleadingthefastlifeofthathistoricalcharacter，buthehadlefthishomeinMersine(onthecoastofAsiaMinor)owingtoanunfortunatedisagreementwithhisfather。Insuchdomesticestrangements，rightlyorwrongly，thefathersgenerallyhavethebestofthesituation，andGeorgi，havingleftacomfortablehome(hisfatherbeingwhatiscalled“welltodo“)，hadtakenship，and，likemanyothers，hadsteeredforCyprus，wherehearrivedunknown，andquicklyexperiencedthedesolationofanutterstrangerinaforeigntown。Georgibecamehungry；whetherhehadsoldhisgoodclothestoprovideforthecoatsofhisstomachIcannotsay，buttheragsinwhichhefirstappearedtomewereutterlyunsaleable，andfewpeoplewouldhaveventureduponanengagementwithsodisreputableaperson。However，Ilikedhisface；hecouldspeakTurkishandArabicfluently：Greekwashismother-tongue，andhehadasmatteringofFrench。Isentforthetailor，andhadhimmeasuredforasuitofclothestomatchthoseofAmarn——atunic，waistcoat，knickerbockers，andgaitersofnavy-blueserge。InafewdaysGeorgiwastransformedintoarespectable-lookingservant，withhishaircut。

WeleftLarnacaonthe29thofJanuary。Anativetwo-wheeledcartconveyedthetentsandsuperabundantbaggage。Theoxenmadenodifficulty，andthegipsy-vanrolledeasilyalong。Anenterprisingphotographer，havingpostedhimselfinacertainpositionnearthehighway，suddenlystoppedourparty，andsubsequentlyproducedafacsimile，althoughmydogs，whowereinmovement，cameoutwithphantom-likeshadows。Theseusefulcompanionswerethreespaniels——“Merry，““Wise，“and“Shot；“thelatterhadabrokenforelegthroughanaccidentinthepreviousyear，buthewasanexcellentretriever，andcouldworkslowly。Theotherswereyoungerdogs，whosecharacterswerewellrepresentedbytheirnames；thefirstwasanuntiring，determinedanimal，andWisewasasteadyhunterthatwouldfacetheworstthorns，andwasagoodretriever。

Thispartywasnowinmovement，andIintendedtomakeapreliminarydetourfromtheNicosiaroutetovisitthespringsofArpera，abouteightmilesdistant，whichsupplythetownofLarnaca。

IneverycountrywhereIhavetravelledIhaveobservedahumanweaknessamongthepopulationonthequestionof“game；“thereisauniversaltendencytoexaggeration；butthelocalityofsuperabundanceisalwaysdistantfromthenarrator。Asyouproceedthegamerecedes；andyouareinformedthat“atabouttwodays"marchyouwillfindevenmorethanyourequire。“Uponarrivalatthewished-forspotyouaretoldthat“formerlytherewasalargequantity，butthattimesandseasonshavechanged；thataboutthreemarchesinyourfrontwillbringyoutoahunter"sparadise，“&c。AsCypruswasanislandofonly140milesinlength，therewouldbealimittotheseboundlessdescriptions；butI

hadalreadyheardenoughtoassuremethattheusualwantofveracityuponthissubjectwaspresentintheaccountsIhadreceived。Thenewspapercorrespondentshadjustcontributedridiculousreportstotheirseveralemployers。BecausethemarketofLarnacawaswellsuppliedwithwoodcocks，red-leggedpartridges，andhares，atlowprices，theseoverworkedgentlemenofthepenrushedtoaconclusionthattheislandteemedwithgame：forgetfulofthefactthateveryCypriotehasagun，andthatnumberswereshootingfortheconsumptionofthefew。Larnacawasthecommoncentretowardswhichallgravitated。Astherateofwageswasonlyoneshillingaday，itmaybeimaginedthatsportaffordedanequallyremunerativeemployment，andgamewasforwardedfromalldistancestobehawkedaboutthepublicthoroughfares。Thefactis，thatgameisveryscarcethroughoutCyprus，andthebooksthathavebeenwrittenuponthiscountryarecertainlynottheproductionsofsportsmen。

Ihadreadinnomeanauthoritythat“thesurfaceofthegroundwascoveredwithheather“——positivelythereisnosuchplantinCyprusasheathorheather。AswepassedtheoutskirtsofLarnaca，wewereintroducedtothemiseryoftheplainofMessaria；theso-calledheatherisalowthornybushabouttwelveincheshigh，whichatadistancehassomeresemblancetotheplantinquestion。Brownistheprevailingcolourinthisportionoftheisland，andtheaspectwasnotcheerfulasweslowlymarchedalongthenativetrackorhighwaytowardsArpera，carefullyavoidingthenewgovernmentmacadamisedroad。

Itisamelancholyneighbourhood。Afewgravesthathadbeenrobbedwereopen，formingpitfallsfortheunwary；otheryawningholeshaddiscoveredancienttombsbythesoakageofarecentheavyshower，whichhadwashedintheroofandexposedthecavity。Wepassedasmallmosquewherethereisthetombofasaintmanyfeetbelowthelevelofthesurface，andweshortlycameinviewofthesaltlakeaboutamileandthree-quartersfromthetownofLarnaca。WehaltedabouttwomilesfromthetownuponthehighgroundtoadmiretheaqueductwhichcrossesthevalleyfromthevillageofCheflikPacha。Thisisaveryimportantwork。

Themasonryisaboutthirty-sixfeetabovethelowestportionofthevalley，whichitspansinthirty-twoarches，coveringadistanceofaboutfourhundredandtwentyyardsfromheighttoheight。Thewaterflowsinanopencanalofcementalongthesurface，butuponthegroundlevelitisprotectedbyacoveringofstoneandlime，untilitreachesthetownofLarnaca。Astreamoffreshwaterflowsthroughthevalleybeneaththearchesoftheaqueduct，atarightangle，andisartificiallyseparatedfromthesaltlakebelowbymeansofadykeofearthwhichconductsitdirecttothesea。Thiswasrenderednecessarybythefloodsoftherainyseasons，whichcarriedsolargeavolumeoffreshwaterintothelakeastoresistthepowerofevaporationduringthesummermonths。ThesaltlakesofLarnacaareseveralmilesinextent，andarecomputedbythelateBritishconsul，Mr。Watkins，topossessaproductivepowerof20，000，000okes(23/4lbs。)perannum。M。

Gaudry，inhiscleverworkuponCyprus，attributestheformationofsalttothefactofthesea-waterpercolatingthroughthesand，andthusfillingthelake；——thistheoryisdisputed，andIinclinetothenativebelief，“thatthesaltlieswithinthesoil，andistakenintosolutionbythewater，whichdepositsthesameamountuponthedrysurfacewhenexhaustedbyevaporation。“Insupportofthisopinion，Iadduceaproofinthefactofthesmallfreshwaterstreamwhichflowsfromthehighergroundthroughthearchesoftheaqueduct，depositingsaltasitssurfacecontractsduringthedryseason。

Astrongefflorescenceoftruechlorideofsodiumisleftuponthesidesofitsbedanduponthebottomasthewaterbecomesexhausted；thismustbethesaltwhichthefreshwaterhasrobbedfromthesoilofthevalleythroughwhichitflows。InmanyportionsofCyprusIhaveobserved，afewdaysafteraheavyshower，aconsiderableamountofsaltuponthesurface。Iknowmanyinstancesoffresh-waterlakesbeingdividedfromtheseabyonlyafewyardsofsandybeach，andIdonotacceptasfactthatsaltwaterpercolatesthroughthesandandformsthesaltofLarnacalake。ThesaltlakesofCeylon，inthesouthdistrictofHambantotte，areimmenselyproductive，andtheyhavenocommunicationwiththesea，butareinasimilarpositiontothoseofCyprusatLarnacaandLimasol——nearthesea，butdependingfortheirwater-supplyuponnaturalspringsandrain。Therecanbenodoubtthatthespringsaresalt，andtherain-waterdissolvesthesaltthatisnaturallycontainedwithinthesoil。M。GaudryobservedaportionoftheplainnearTrichomocoveredwithanefflorescenceofsoda，whichbyanalysisyieldedabouttwo-thirdsofsulphateofsoda，withalargeproportionofsulphateofmagnesiaandothersalts。ManywellsinCyprusaresalt，orbrackish。ThelowestgroundofthemarshyplainnearFamagoustacontainssalttoadegreesufficienttodestroytheyoungcereals，shouldrainnotbeabundant；andduringthedroughtofthisyear(1879)，theywerethefirsttoperish，althoughinadamplocality。

SaltisagovernmentmonopolyinCyprus，andisoneofthemostimportantsourcesofrevenue。InthereignoftheLusignandynasty，andfromamuchearlierdate，theproduceofthesaltlakesformedoneofthechiefarticlesofexport，andarrangementsweremadeforregulatingtheamountofwatertoensuretherequisiteevaporation。Atthepresenttimeconsiderableuncertaintyattendsthecollectionofsalt，asaviolentrainfallfloodsthelakesandweakensthesolution。Therecanbenodoubtthatafewyears"experienceandattentionwillenabletheauthoritiestoimproveuponthepresentarrangement，andthatnotonlywilltheannualsupplybeassured，buttheforeigndemandwillbeextended。

Wepassedthevalleybeyondtheaqueductand，ascendingthesteepinclineupontheoppositeside，followedtheruttynativetrackparallelwiththewater-course；wehaltedforthefirstnightoppositethevillageofCheflikPacha。Thisisanunhealthyplace，asitliesinavalleywhereamillisturnedbyastreamfromtheaqueductandthesurpluswaterformsamarshafterirrigatinginacarelessmannersomefieldsandgardens。Lemonandorange-treesofthelargestsizewerecrowdedwithfruit，andexhibitedinthemidstofatreelessanddesolatecountrythegreatnecessity，WATER，andtheproductivepowersofthesoilwhenregularlysupplied。

Iwascarefulnottodescendintotheirrigatedbottom，thereforewehadhaltedonthehighestpoint，aquarterofamiledistant。Itisimpossibletobetoocarefulintheselectionofacamping-ground；theeffectoffever-germsmaybetheresultofonenight"sbivouacinanunhealthylocality；andanewcountryisfrequentlystampedaspestilentialfromtheuttercarelessnessofthetravellerorofficerincommandoftroops。

Asageneralruletheimmediateneighbourhoodofwatershouldbeavoided。Aclearstreamisatemptingobject，andthedifficultyofcarryingwaterforthesupplyoftroopsisimportant；butitislessthanthenecessityofcarryingthesick。Ifoncethefeverofmalariaattacksanindividualhebecomesunfittedforhiswork；thebloodispoisoned，andheisthevictimofrenewedattackswhichbafflemedicalskillandleadtootherseriouscomplications。Avoidthefirstattack。

Thismaygenerallybeeffectedbythecarefulselectionofthecamping-ground。Neverhaltinabottom，butalwaysonaheight。

ThroughoutmyjourneyinCyprusneitherourselvesnorservantssufferedfromanyailment，althoughwevisitedeveryportionofthecountry，andIattributethisimmunityfromfevermainlytothecareinourselectionofhalting-places。

Thefirstnecessityintheeveninghaltwasfire。ThisisoneofthetroublesofcentralCyprus——thereisnofuel。Thetwovansandthenativecartwereinaline——thebell-tentwasquicklypitchedfortheservants，whonowforthefirsttimeexperiencedthecomfortofanarrangementIhadmadewheninEngland。Ihadsevendealbattens，eachsevenfeetlong，fourinchesdeep，bytwoandahalfinchesbroad。Thesewerelaiduponthegroundtwelveinchesapart；sevenplanks，eachonefootwide，wereplacedacrossthebattenstoformanimpromptufloor。

Uponthisplatformwaslaidanon-conductorofsimplydoubledhair-felt，sewedintoathinmattressoflightcanvas。Therewasverylittletroubleinthisarrangement；themenwerekeptwellofftheground，andthehair-feltnotonlypreservedtheirbodilyheatfromescaping，butitpreventedthedampoftheearthfromascending。Thismattresswastenfeetlong，thereforeitcouldberolleduptoformabolsteratoneend；

and，duringahotsun，itwasintendedforacovertotheroofofthegipsyvan。

Thefirstday"sstartisalwaysintheafternoon，andthemarchisshort。Wehadonlymadethreemiles，anditwasnearlydarkwhenwehalted。Theabsenceoffuelnecessitatesthegreattroubleofcarryingasupplyofcharcoal，anditdestroysthepleasureofthecheerfulnight-firesthatusuallyenliventhebivouacinwildcountries。TheplantsandherbsthatgrowinCyprusareallprickly；thusgropinginthedarkforthefirstinflammablematerialtoproducethefire-foundationisunpleasant。Thereisahighlyaromaticbutverypricklyspeciesofwildthyme：thisisalwayssoughtfor，andatalltimesrespondstothematch。

Thefirstnightisalwaysnovel，inspiteofoldexperiences。Weprickedourhandsinrakingupthornyplants，butausefulimplement，whichcombinedthebroadhoeononesidewithalightpickontheother，lessenedourlabour，andweproducedablaze；thiswasbrightbuttransient，asthefuelwasunsubstantial。Thedinnerwasquicklywarmed，asitconsistedoftinsofpreservedmeats；and，climbinguptheladder，thegipsyvanpresentedsuchapictureofluxurythatiftheworldweregirdedbyagoodroadinsteadofauselessequatorIshouldliketobeperpetuallycircum-vanningit。

Onthefollowingmorningthethermometermarked40degrees。Thenativeswereearlyatwork，ploughinglandthatwastoremainfallowuntilthefollowingseason。Theoxenweresleekandingoodcondition，andnotinferiorinweighttothewell-knownredanimalsofNorthDevon。

AlthoughthenativeploughisoftheunchangedandprimitivepatternthatisillustratedonthewallsofEgyptiantemples，itiswelladaptedfortheworkrequiredintheroughandstonygroundofCyprus。Iwassurprisedtoseethedepthwhichtheseexceedinglylightimplementsattained，withapparenteasetothepairofoxen；thiswasnotlessthaneightinches，andthefurrowswereregular，butnotturnedcompletelyover。Theploughshareisnotadaptedforcuttingtherootsofweedsbymeansofaflatsurfaceandasharpedge，buttheroundedtopofthenativeironpassesbeneaththesoilandbreaksituplikethewaveproducedbytheram-bowofavessel。Theplough，whencomplete，doesnotexceedfortypoundsinweight，anditisconvenientlycarried，togetherwiththelabourer，uponthesamedonkey，whentravellingfromadistancetothemorning"swork。EuropeansettlersinCyprusshouldbecautiousbeforesupersedingthenativeploughbythemassiveEuropeanpattern；

therearecertainsoilswherethepowerfulironplough，oreventhedoubleimplement，mightbeworkedwithadvantage，butasageneralruleIshouldadviseanagriculturisttowaitpatientlyatthecommencementofhisoperations，andtogainpracticalexperienceofthecountrybeforeheexpendscapitalinthepurchaseofEuropeaninventions。TherecanbenodoubtthatbydegreesimportantimprovementsmaybeintroducedthatwillbenefittheCypriotefarmer，althoughitwillbelongbeforehisprimitivemethodwillbeabandoned。ThegreatdifficultyinCyprusconsistsinreducingthesoiltoafinesurface；hugelumpsoftenaciousearthareturnedupbytheplough，which，underthebakinginfluenceofthesun，becomeashardassun-driedbricks。Thenativemethodofcrushingisexceedinglyrudeandineffective。Aheavyplankaboutsixteenfeetlongandthreeinchesthick，furnishedwithtworings，isdraggedbyoxenoverthesurface；whichgenerallyremainsinsoroughastatethatwalkingoverthefieldismostlaborious。TherearemanystonecolumnslyinguselessamongtheheapsofruinssocommoninCyprus，thatwouldformexcellentrollers，buttheideaofsuchanimplementhasneverenteredtheCypriotehead。Theplough，smoothing-plank，andtheancientthreshing-harrow，composedoftwobroadplanksinlaidwithsharpflintstones，aretheonlyfarmmachineryofthecultivator。AsinthedaysofAbrahamtheoxendrewthissamepatternofharrowoverthecorn，andreducedthestrawtoacoarsechaffmingledwiththegrain，soalsothetreatmentinCyprusremainstothepresentday。Theresultisamixtureofdirtandsandwhichisonlypartiallyrejectedbytheequallyprimitivemethodofwinnowing。

Mr。HamiltonLanggivesanamusingdescriptionofthestrictlyconservativeprinciplesoftheCyprianoxen，whichhavealwaysbeenfeduponthestrawbrokenbytheprocessdescribedinthreshingbytheharrowofsharpflints。Thiscoarsechaff，mixedwithcotton-seed，lentils，orbarley，iseatenbyallanimalswithavidity，andthebullockspositivelyrefusedMr。Lang"snewfood，whichwasthesamestrawpassedthroughanEnglishthreshing-machineandcutfinebyamodernchaff-cutter。Thisfactisawarningtothosewhowouldintroducetoosuddenreformsamongmenandanimalsinanewly-acquiredcountry；

butifMr。HamiltonLanghadsprinkledsaltoverhischaffIthinktherefractoryappetitesoftheoxenmighthavebeenovercome。Apairofoxenaresupposedtoploughone“donum“dailyoffiftypacessquare，orabouthalfanacre。

Havingwatchedthevariousteams，andconversedwiththeploughmenbythemediumofthecookChristo，whospokeEnglishandwasanintelligentinterpreter，IorderedthevanstomoveonwhileIwalkedoverthecountrywiththedogs。Therewasnogameexceptawild-duckwhichIshotinthethickweedsofaneighbouringswamp。Larkswereingreatquantities，andforwantoflargerbirdsIshotenoughforapilaff，andsecuredabreakfast。Theroute，whichcouldbehardlycalledaroad，hadbeenwornbythewheelsofnativecarts。Thesewerenarrowerthanourvans，andoneofourwheelswasgenerallyuponahigherlevel，threateningonsomeoccasionstooverturn。Thecountryarounduswasdesolateinitsaridity。Wepassedthroughtheruinsofanancientcityoverwhichtheploughhadtriumphed，andliterallynotonestonewasleftuponanother。Afewstonecolumnsofaroughdescription，someofwhichwerebroken，werelyinginvariousdirections，andInoticedalowermillstoneformedofanexceedinglyhardconglomeraterock；thesepiecesweretooheavytomovewithoutgreatexertions，thereforetheyhadremainedinsitu。

AfterashortmarchofthreemileswearrivedatthesteepbanksoftheriveramileabovethevillageofArpera。Thebedofthisriverwasaboutfortyfeetbelowthelevelofthecountry，andhereourfirstrealdifficultycommencedindescendingaruggedandprecipitoustrack，whichatfirstsightappeareddestructivetoanysprings。Thegipsy-vanwasconductedbytheownerofthefinepairofbullocks；butthisfellow(Theodoris)wasanobstinateandutterlyrecklesscharacter，andinsteadofobeyingorderstogosteadilywiththedragonthewheels，heputhisanimalsintoagallopdownthesteepdescent，withtheintentionofgainingsufficientmomentumtocrossthesandybottomandtoascendtheotherside。Iftheoriginalgipsyproprietorcouldhaveseenhisvanleapingandtossinglikeashipinaheavysea，withthefranticdrivershoutingandyellingathisbullockswhileheacceleratedtheirgallopbyasharpapplicationoftheneedle-pointeddrivingprick，hewouldhaveconsidereditthelastmomentofhismovablehome。Ididthesame；

but，tomyastonishment，thevehicle，afterboundingmadlyabout，simplyturnedtheinsanedriverheadoverheelsintotheriver"sbed，andthebullocksfoundthemselvesanchoredinthesandontheoppositeside。

GloverBrothers"bluevanwasdrivenbyafinefellow，Georgi，whowasofasteadydisposition；andthisveryhandyandwellconstructedcarriagemadenothingofthedifficulty。Georgiwasahandsomeandexceedinglypowerfulman，upwardsofsixfeethigh，ofamostamiabledisposition，whoalwaystriedtodohisbest；butthetruthmustbetold，hewasstupid：hebecameaslavetothesuperiorintellectofthebare-brainedrascalofthegipsy-van。WhyamiablepeopleshouldsofrequentlybestupidIcannotconceive：perhapsafewaresharp；butGeorgi，poorfellow，hadallinboneandmuscle，andnotinbrain。

Thereisgreatadvantageintravellingwithmorethanonevehicle，asinanydifficultythenumerousanimalscanbeharnessedtogetherandtheircombinedpowerwilldragasinglecartorcarriagethroughanyobstacle。

Thusonebyonethevansweretuggedupthesteepbankontheoppositeside，andafteradragacrossploughedfieldsfornearlyamilewehaltedontheedgeofacliffandcampedexactlyabovetheriver。

Althoughthebedwasdrybelowthispoint，wefoundafaintstreamofclearwateraboveourposition，whichwassubsequentlyabsorbedbythesand。Thecliffswerenotperpendicular，butwerebrokenintosteepdeclivitiesfromsuccessivelandslips：thesideswerecoveredwiththeusualpricklyplants，buttheedgesofthestreamwerethicklybushedwitholeanderswhichaffordedexcellentcovertforgame。

IntravellingthroughCyprusthereisadepressingaspectinthegeneraldecayandruinofformerworks。Istrolledwithmydogsforsomemilesalongtheriverbanks，andexaminedthestrongmasonryremainsofmanyoldwater-mills。Ifoundawell-constructedaqueductofwonderfullyhardcementatthebottomofacliffclosetothepresentbedoftheriver：

thismustataformerperiodhavepassedbelowthebed，andthedeepeningofthestreamhasexposedandwashedawaytheancientwork。

Therewasnogamebeyondafewwildred-leggedpartridges，althoughtheappearanceofthecountryhadraisedmyexpectations。

OnthefollowingmorningIrambledwiththedogsformanyhoursovertherangeofhillswhichboundstheplainuponthenorth，andfromwhichtheriverissues。Thesearecompletelydenudedofsoil，andpresentaglaringsurfaceofhardenedchalk，inthecrevicesofwhichtheusualpricklyplantscanaloneexist。Someofthehill-topsexposedasmoothnaturalpavementwheretherainhadwashedawayallsolubleportionsandleftthebarefoundationcrackedinsmalldivisionsasthoughartificiallyinlaid。NowandthenawretchedspecimenofthePinusMaritima，aboutsixfeethigh，wastobeseenvainlyendeavouringtofindnourishmentinthecleftsofthebarrenrocks。IdonotbelievethetalesofforestshavingformerlyexisteduponthegreaterportionofCyprus：itwouldcertainlybeimpossibleforanyspeciesoftreetothriveupontheextensiverangeofhillsnearArpera，whichareabsolutelyvalueless。

Inmanyplacesthesurfaceglistenedwithice-likesheetsofgypsum，whichcroppedoutofthecoldwhitemarlsandproducedawintryappearancethatincreasedthedesolation。Iwalkedforsomehoursoversuccessiverangesofthesamehopelesscharacter。Greatnumbersofhawksandseveralvarietiesofeagleswerehuntingabovethehill-tops，andsufficientlyexplainedthescarcityofgame。Thered-leggedpartridgesfoundlittleprotectioninthescantcoveraffordedbythewitheredplants，andIsawonecapturedandcarriedoffbyaneagle，whowasimmediatelychasedbytwoothersofthesamespecies，inthevainhopethathewouldgiveuphisprize；hesoaredhighinairwiththepartridgehangingfromhisclaws。OnthesamedayIsawanothercapture，andtherecanbelittledoubtthatthepartridgeformstheusualfoodoftheselargebirdsofprey。TheBritishgovernmenthasalreadyprotectedthegamebyestablishingacloseseasonandbyataxuponallguns；buttherewillbelittlebenefitfromthenewlawunlessarewardshallbeofferedforthedestructionofthebirdsofpreywhichswarmineveryportionoftheisland——eagles，falcons，kites，hawks，ravens，crows，andlast，butincunninganddestructivepropensitynottheleast，the“magpies。“Thesebirdsexistinsuchnumbersthatunlessstepsaretakentodestroythemitwillbehopelesstoexpectanyincreaseofgame。Whenamagpiewakesintheearlymorninghisfirstthoughtismischief，andduringthebreedingseasonthereisnobirdwhomakesegg-huntingsoespeciallyhisoccupation。UponthetreelessplainsofCypruseverynestisathismercy。

Fromthebaseofthebarrenhill-rangeafertileplainslopestowardstheseaforawidthofaboutfourmiles，havingreceivedthesoilthathasbeenwashedfromthedenudedheights。Thisrichsurfaceiscultivatedwithcereals，butthereareconsiderableportionswhicharecoveredwithadensemassofthistles，asthelandisallowedtorestforacoupleofyearsafterhavingbeenexhaustedbyseveralcropswithoutmanuring。OnthelowlandsofCyprusnearlyeveryplantorbushisarmedwiththorns。Ihavegenerallyobservedthatathornyvegetationisaproofofaburningclimatewithaslightrainfall。InthescorchingdistrictsoftheSoudanthereishardlyatreewithoutthornstothetenthdegreeofnorthlatitude，atwhichlimittherainfallisgreatandthevegetationchangesitscharacter。TheCypriotesofbothsexeswearhighbootstothekneesasaprotectionfromthecountlessthistles，andnotasanarmouragainstsnakes，assomewritershaveassumed。Thesebootsarepeculiarintheirconstruction；thesolesareaboutaninchinthickness，formedofseverallayersofleather，whicharefastenedtogetherbylarge-headednailsfrombeneath；thesearedirectedinanobliqueline，soastopassthroughtheedgeoftheupperleatherandsecureittothesoleexactlyastheshoeofahorseisfittedtothehoof。Thenailsarelongandthin，andarerivetedbyturningthepointsroundandhammeringthemlikeacoilupontheleather；theheadsofthesenailsarenearlyaslargeasashilling，andthebootsareexceedinglyclumsy；buttheyincreasetheheightofthewearerbyafullinch。

Myamiabledriverofthebluevan，Georgi，accompaniedmeinmywalk，andfiredseveraluselessshotsatwildpartridges。WenowarrivedatthespotwherethewaterisledbyasubterraneanaqueducttoLarnaca。

Thisprincipleissooriginal，andhasfromsuchremotetimesbeenadoptedinthisaridisland，thatitmeritsadetaileddescription。TheancientvestigesofsimilarworksineveryportionofCyprusprovethatinallagestherainfallmusthavebeenuncertain，andthatnoimportantchangehastakenplaceinthemeteorologicalconditionofthecountry。

Inasearchforwater-springstheCyprioteismostintelligent，andthetalentappearstobehereditary。Ifawellissuccessfulatanelevationthatwillenablethewatertocommandlowerlevelsatadistance，itmaybeeasilyunderstoodthatthesupplyofonewellrepresentingaunitmustbelimited。TheCypriotewell-sinkerworksuponaprincipleofsimplemultiplication。Ifonewellproducesacertainflow，tenwellswillmultiplythevolume，ifconnectedbyasubterraneantunnel，andprovidedthesupplyofwaterinthespringisunlimited。

ItappearsthatCyprusexhibitsananomalyinthepeculiarityofasmallrainfallbutgreatsubterraneanwater-power；somestratumthatisimperviousretainsthewateratdepthsvaryingaccordingtolocalconditions。Thewell-sinkercommencesbyboring，orratherdigging，acircularholetwofeetsixinchesindiameter。ThesoilofCyprusissotenaciousthatthewallsoftheshaftrequirenoartificialsupport；

thismuchfacilitatesthework，andthelabourer，armedwithaveryshort-handledpick，patientlyhackshisverticalway，andsendsuptheearthbymeansofabasketandrope，drawnbyaprimitivebuteffectivewindlassabove，formedofacradleofhorizontalwoodenbars。Themaninchargesimplyturnsthewindlasswithoutahandle，byclutchingeachsuccessivebar，which，actingasarevolvinglever，windsuptheropewiththeweightattached。

Therapidityofthewell-sinkingnaturallydependsuponthequalityofthesoil；ifrockistobecutthrough，itisworkedwithamason"saxeandthecoldchisel。Fortunatelythegeologicalformationisprincipallysedimentarylimestone，whichoffersnogreatresistance。Atlengththewaterisreached。Thewellisnowleftopenforafewdaysthatanopinionmaybeformedofthepower；iffavourable，anotherpreciselysimilarwellissunkatadistanceoffifteenorsixteenyardsinthedirectiontowardsthepointrequiredbythefutureaqueduct。Thespringbeingsatisfactory，theworkproceedswithvigour。Wewillacceptthefirstwellasfortyfeetindepth；ifthesurfaceoftheearthwereanexactlevel，thenextwellwouldbeanequaldepth；butasthewaterretainsitsnaturallevel，theverticalmeasurementofeachshaftwilldependupontheformationoftheupperground。Theobjectofthewell-sinkeristocreateachainofwellsunitedbyasubterraneantunnel，inordertomultiplythepowerofaunitandtoobtaintheentiresupplyofwater；hethereforesinksperhapstenortwentywellstothesamelevel，andhecutsanarrowtunnelfromonetotheother，thusconnectinghisshaftsatthewater-line，soastoformacanaloraqueduct。Preciselyasthemoleupheavesatcertainintervalstheearththatithasscrapedfromitsgallery，thewell-sinkerclearshistunnelbysendingupthecontentsthroughtheverticalshaftsfifteenyardsapart，aroundthemouthofwhichafunnel-shapedmoundisformedbythedebris。

Thesepreliminarywallsbeingcompletedandthewater-volumetested，theneighbourhoodisexaminedwiththehopeofdiscoveringotherspringsthatmayuponthesameprinciplebeconductedtowardsthemainlineoftheproposedaqueduct。Itisnotuncommontofindseveralchainsofwellsconvergingfromdifferentlocalitiestothedesiredwater-head，andastheseareathigherlevels，aconsiderablehydraulicpowerisobtained，sufficientinmanyinstancesnotonlytofillthetunnels，buttoforcethewatertoagreaterelevationifrequired。

Thewater-headbeingthoroughlyestablished，thesinkingofachainofwellsproceeds，andthetunnelsarearrangedatagiveninclinationtoconductthewatertothedestinedspot。Thismaybemanymilesdistant，necessitatingmanyhundredwells，whichmaycomprisegreatsuperficialchanges；hillsthatareboredthroughnecessitatedeepshafts，andvalleysmustbespannedbyaqueductsofmasonry。InthismannerthewaterisconductedfromthespringsofArperanearthespotwheretheriverissuesfromthenarrowvalleyamongthehills，andsuppliesLarnaca，abouteightmilesdistantfromthefirsthead。TheBritishauthoritiesproposetosubstituteironpipesforthepresentaqueduct；

butitistobehopedthatthenewschemewillbeanindependentandadditionalwork，thatwillinnowayinterferewiththeimportantgiftofCheflikPacha，whichhasexistedfornearlytwocenturies，andwhich，ifkeptinrepair，willsupplythenecessaryvolume。