第3章

The17thFebruarywasadayofconsiderablebodilyexercise，aswearrivedataseriesofwatercoursesasdeepandbroadasmilitarytrenchesforsappinguptoafortress。Wehadnosoonerlevelledanembankment，andwithgreatdifficultydraggedthevansacross，thanweencounteredanewandsimilarobstruction。AtlengthwearrivedwithinhalfamileofthelargevillageArshia，which，beingwellirrigated，opposedaperfectnetworkofbarriersintheshapeofartificialwater-channels。Theoxenbecamedisheartened，andthepairwhichdrewthebluevandrivenbyourfavouriteGeorgideterminedtostrikeworkjustashewasapplyingthesharpdrivingpricktotheirposteriorsinascendingasteepbank，throughwhichwehadcutapassagefromthedeepwater-coursebeneath。Insteadofkeepingastraightcourse，thesepig-headedbullocksmadeasharpturntotherightuptheincline。Downwentoneuponitskneesinrageanddespair！whileroundwenttheotherinanoppositedirection：crashwentthepoleintwopieces！andthebluevan，havingvainlyendeavouredtorightitselflikealadyabouttofaintwhennooneisathandtosaveher，totteredforamoment，andturnedoverwithacrashthatbetokenedgeneraldestruction。MyAbyssinianlad，Amarn，wasonlyjustintimetoescape，ashehadbeenendeavouringtosupportthevanontheimpendingsidewhenitsuddenlycapsised，andhewouldhavebeenflattenedlikeablack-edgedmourningenvelopehadhenotactivelysprungoutoftheway。

Allhandssetaboutrightingtheship——whichwasuponherbeam-ends，andthewheelsuppermost。Thefirstthingnecessarywastodischargecargo；

thiswequicklyeffected，asthereweredoorsinfrontandbehind，andthenumerouspackagesweresoonpileduponthewayside。Nosoonerwasthevanempty，thanmydogs，whohadbeenwatchingtheoperationinbewilderment，jumpedin，andnoinducementwouldpersuadethemtoquitthecomfortablevehicle，whichtheysupposedhadbeenspeciallyclearedfortheirconvenience；thedoorswereaccordinglyshut，andtheywerelockedup。Wenowpassedropesbeneaththevan，andsecuredtheendstothebottomofthewheels，whichrestedupontheground；theotherendswerethrownoverthecap-roofandmanned，whiletherestofthepartyendeavouredtoraisethevanbodily。Allworkingtogether，werighteditimmediately，theastonisheddogswereliberated，andwesoonreplacedthecontents。IsentamessengertoArshiatopurchaseifpossibleapieceofwoodsufficientlylongtoformapole，andinthemeantimeI

employedmytoolsandmyselfinsplicingthebrokenpolesufficientlytoenableustocreepalittlenearertothevillage，aswewerefarfromwater。

ItwasnearlydarkbythetimeIhadcompletedmywork，andthebullockswereoncemorefastenedtothevan。Inthiswayweapproachedwithinaquarterofamileofthevillageandhaltedforthenight。Imadeacapitalpolefromthestemofayoungfir-treewhichIprocuredfromthenatives，andlasheditsecurelytotheroughbutstrongsplinter-barofdwarf-cypress。

OnthefollowingmorningatdaybreakImadeafewalterationsintheworkoftheprecedingnight，andhavingthoroughlysecuredthenewpole，westartedforKuklia，aboutthirteenmilesdistant。Afterpassingafewmorewatercourses，wearrivedatthebestgroundwehadseeninCyprus，andthevanstravelledwitheaseatupwardsofthreemilesanhour。

ThroughoutthismarchIobservedthatthewaterinthevariouswellsandopenpitswashardlyfivefeetfromthesurface，althoughthecountrywassufferingfromanabsenceofrain。Notwithstandingthisnaturaladvantage，therewereonlytwofarmsuponwhichthecattle-wheelswereusedforpurposesofirrigation，whichprovesthelackofenterpriseandcapitalthroughoutthismiserabledistrict。

Thereweremanyimportantvillagesuponthehigherground，whichoverlookedthelowerplainthroughwhichtheriverPediaswassupposedtoflow。Theseheightswereaboutahundredandfiftyfeetabovethelowerlevel，andcontinuedtoincreasetheirelevationformanymiles，untiltheyformedthehorizononthesouth-westandwest。Thesoilwasextremelyfertile，butasusualcoveredwithstones，thedebrisofdecayedlimestoneofthepost-tertiaryperiod，suchasisfoundthroughouttheMessaria。Theflatvalleybelowwasaboutthirteenmilesacrossduenorth，andwasboundedbytheCarpasrange，whichextendedtotheeastbeyondtelescopicview。Inourfrontwasacheeringscene，towardswhichwehastenedwithallspeed；assailorsrushondeckatthefirstcryof“Landahead！”wehurriedforwardattheunusualsight，“Greentrees！”Grovesoftallcypress，poplars，andothervarieties，springingfromabaseofexquisiteverdure，formedarareandunmistakablelandmark。ThiswasKuklia，ourhalting-place，thepropertyofMonsieurRichardMattei。

Uponarrivalatthevillageweselectedaprettyspotuponelevatedgroundwhichoverlookedtheentirecountry，andfromwhichwecouldfaintlydistinguishFamagousta，twelvemilesdistant。Uponourright，withinahundredandtwentyyards，wasanaqueductofmasonrysupporteduponarches，whichconveyedapowerfulstreamtoturnalargeovershotwater-wheelinthevalleyimmediatelybelow。Thesurpluswater，afterhavingworkedthemill，wasusedfortheirrigationofextensivecotton-grounds，beyondwhichitflowedintothemarshesandformedaswamp。Ontheoppositesideofthisnarrowvalleywereheightsandundulatingground，correspondingtothoseuponwhichwestood——alltreelessandcold；whileuponourright，closetotheaqueduct，wasthebrightgreenofhighcultivation，andgrovesoftalltreeswhichtoweredabovegardensoforangesandlemonsnowbendingbeneaththeburdenofyellowfruit。Thevillagewasdisappointing，asthehouseswereofaloworderandmuchneglected；thelaneswereoccupiedbytheusualfilthandnoisydogs；buttheagreeableviewofbrightgreenfieldsandrealthrivingtreeswasadelightfulchange，andexhibitedapictureofwhatCyprusmightbecomewhendevelopedbycapitalandenterprise。WhilethecampwasbeingarrangedItookmygunandstrolledwiththedogsintothenarrowvalleybelowthemill。Thewaterwheelwasatwork，andthepeoplewereengagedincleaningcotton，asthemachinerywasadaptedforbothpurposesofgrindingcornorofginningcottonwhenrequired。Therewereplentyofsnipeinthemarshesbelowthecotton-fields，forwhichrushes，lowbushesoftamariskandothershrubs，affordedexcellentcover。IquicklybaggedtwocoupleandmyfirstFrancolinpartridge，andwasjustintime，beforedark，toassistthedinner。

Atsunriseonthefollowingmorningtheviewwasinteresting，astheseaglitteredbrightlytothesouth，whiletheboldrocksandwall-likesidesoftheCarpasmountainsstoodoutinsharply-definededgesandvaryingcoloursonthenorth。TotheeastwelookedoverthebroadestportionofadeadflatcreatedbythedepositfrominundationsoftheeccentricriverPedias，which，althoughdryatthepresenttime，periodicallyfloodsthecountryandconvertsthevalleyintoanextensivelake。ItwasabouttwentymilesacrossthisbroadflattotheimportanttownofTrichomo，andtheruinsofSalamiswerediscerniblewiththetelescopeaboutmidway，closetotheseashore。

TherewasanextentofseveralmilesofmarsharoundtheheightsofKuklia，insomeportionsofwhichcottonwascultivatedinconsiderablequantities，butIwassurprisedattheinferiorityofthequality，andattheapparentweaknessoftheplantswherethewater-supplywasplentiful。OncloserexaminationIobservedgreatcarelessnessintheabsenceofdrainage；theplantswereallowedtoperishinstagnantwater，whichsouredtheland。UponalongeracquaintancewithM。

Mattei"sfarm，Ifoundthesamefaultgenerally。Manyportionsofvaluablelandwerechilledandrenderedfruitlessbytoomuchwater，whichremainedinthegroundforwantofthemostsimpledrains。Ishotplentyofsnipeinthefieldsofbarley，althoughtheywerenotsupposedtobeunderirrigation。M。MatteiiswellknownasthelargestlandedproprietorinCyprus，andtherepresentativeofagriculturalprogress；

buthisbailiffatKukliacouldhardlyhaveexpectedaprizeatanexhibition，althougheveryfacilityexistsforcreatingaperfectmodel-farm。Thespringswhichsupplythewater-powerwerediscoveredinthreedifferentpositionsaboutthreemilesdistant。Theusualchainsofwells(alreadydescribed)weresunk，andataconvenientspottheyconvergedintoasingleline，untilalowerlevelintroducedthechanneltothesurface。Thewaterwasthenreceivedintoastoneaqueduct，andledwithgreatjudgmentinahalfcirclebeneaththehighergroundwhichwasoccupiedbythevillage，atalevelwhichnotonlyenabledittocommandtheextensiveflatsbeneath，buteventuallypassedbeyondthevillage，andturnedanovershotwheelofmorethantwentyfeetdiameter。

Thisgreatworkwasatthesoleexpenseoftheproprietor。Afteraconsiderableoutlayandperfectsuccessintheengineering，itistoberegrettedthatgreatercareisnotbestowedupontheland；althoughthegardenscontainamassoffruit-trees，largegrovesoffigs，andrelievetheeyebytheircheerfulaspect，onlyenoughhasbeenattainedtoexhibitthegreatpowerthatexistsforproducingastillgreaterabundanceunderproperadministration。

Havingexaminedtheneighbourhoodthoroughly，Ichangedthepositionofourcampandhaltedamileandahalfuptheaqueductonthehighersideofthevillage，atapointwherethewaterfirstissuedfromitssubterraneanchannelintotheconduitofmasonryandcement。Wethussecuredasupplyinitsoriginalpurity，beforeitshouldbecontaminatedbyanywashingofclothesinpassingthroughthevillageinanopenchannel，whichfromitsconvenienceofferedanirresistibleinvitation。Suchatemptingstream，runningthroughacanaluponabroadwallofmasonryopentoallcomerswould，inanyEuropeancountry，havebeenthenaturalresortofboys，whowouldhaverevelledinthefreedomofnakednessandthedelightofbathinginforbiddenwaters；butinCyprusIhaveneveronceseenapersonwashinghimselfinpublic。Thisisnotfromanysenseofindecentexposure，butfromtheirabsolutedisliketotheoperation。Ihadsubsequentlyinmyservicearemarkablyfinemanwhowasalwayscarefullydressed，andinfactwasquiteadandyinexterior，butduringthehotweatherwhenheononeoccasionsawmyAbyssinianAmarnswimminginthesea，hedeclaredthat，“ratherthanbathe，hewouldprefertocuthisthroat。“

Ihadarrangedthecampclosetoahawthorn-tree，whichwasalreadygreeninitsfirstspringleaves，andhadformedblossom-budsthatwouldopeninafewdays。Therewereaconsiderablenumberofthesamespeciesscatteredinthevicinity，buttheyhadbeendefacedbythemutilationsusualthroughoutCyprus。Ifamanrequiresastickorapieceofwoodforanypurpose，hehacksunsparinglyatthefirsttree；whetheritbelongstohimortoanotherproprietor。Thegroundslopedgraduallytothelowestlevelofthehollowaboutfourhundredyardsdistant，allofwhichwasincultivation；thebroad-beanswereinblossom，andaspeciesoftrefoilwasalreadyeightornineincheshigh(22ndFebruary)；thiswasinanticipationofalackofnaturalpasturage。

Itwaspitiabletoseethewretchedconditionofthecattlethroughoutthisdistrict；theabsenceofrainhadpreventedthegrowthoftheusualherbaceousplants，andtheanimalswereforcedtoseekunnaturalfoodproducedinthestagnantswamps；thesewerefullofskeletonsandcarcassesofoxen，thataffordedbonesofcontentionforthenumerousvillagedogswhoactedasscavengers。Whenthedrovesofoxenreturnedfrompastureeveryevening，manywereinastateofweaknessthatscarcelyallowedthemstepbysteptoascendtherisingground；allwerereducedtomereskinandbones，anditwouldhavebeenamercytohaveputthemoutoftheirmisery。Iwasassuredthat，“thefewwhoseconstitutioncouldholdoutforanothersixweekswouldrecoverwhenthetrefoilshouldbefittocut。“

Idailywalkedovertheadjoiningcountry，andtherewaslittledifficultyindiscoveringtheoriginofM。Mattei"swatersources。Upontheheightsbehindourcamp，aplateauofmanymilesinextent，withanalmostimperceptibleinclinationtowardsthesouth-east，receivedtherainfall，inadditiontothesubterraneandrainageofthehillsinthefardistance。Agreatportionofthisareawasuncultivated，asthesedimentarylimestonewasgenerallyclosetothesurface；thiswascoveredwiththeusualpricklyshrubsthatsomewritershavemisnamed“heath，“togetherwiththehighlyaromaticherbsthatseemtodelightinathirstysoil；amongtheseisathornyspeciesofwildthyme，thatisafavouritefoodforhares。Insomeplacesthesoilwasred，formingastrongcontrasttothewhitesurfacearound，andinsuchspotstheearthhadbeenalreadyploughedinpreparationfortheforthcomingseason。Thelargeareaatahigheraltitudeformedanexampleofaprinciplethatmaybeacceptedastherulethroughouttheisland。Inwalkingoverthisextensivesurface，therewasoccasionallyahollow，drum-likesoundbeneaththefeet，denotingsubterraneancavitiesintheporousandsolublestratabeneaththeharderupperstratum。Itwasanaturalconsequencethatasubstratumimpervioustowatershouldformabedatacertainleveltoretainthedrainage：bytappingthisbedatanypoint，thewaterwouldbediscovered；butbypiercingthesurfacebelowthislevel，thehydraulicpressurewouldforcethewaterintoarunningstream。

ThisM。Matteihasaccomplished，notasanewinvention，butastheapplicationofarulewellknowntotheCypriotesfromancienttimes；

andIrepeatmyargument，that，“thehereditaryabilityofthesepeopleindiscoveringandutilisingspringsisaproofthatascarcityofwaterhasbeenachronicdifficultyinthisislandfromremoteperiods，andthatnoimportantchangehasbeenoccasionedbythesensationaldestructionofforestsinfluencingtherainfall，“&c。，&c。，&c。Inmyopinion，thewholeofthenowdesolateMessariadistrictmayberenderedfruitfulandpermanentlyabundantbythescientificemploymentofawater-powerwhichalreadyexists，althoughunseenandundeveloped。

ItwasquiteimpossibletoproceedtoFamagoustawiththevans，andtherewasnoobjectincourtingtheirdestructionbyadesperateadvanceatallhazards，asweshouldhaveinanycasebeenobligedeventuallytorenewthedifficultywhenretracingourroute。Ithereforecanteredinuponmymule，withtheguidewhoalwayslosthisway，HadjiChristo。

Thismanwasagreatruffian，andhadlawsexistedforthepreventionofcrueltytoanimals，Iwouldhaveprosecutedhim；nominallyhehadthechargeofthemuleandtwoponies，butheilltreatedthesepooranimals，andthedonkeysalso，inadisgracefulmanner。However，Ihadnootherguide，andalthoughIknewhimtobeinpartnershipwithsomeWill-o"-the-wisp，Iwasobligedtofollowhim。Itwasaneasycourseforsaddle-animals，asthecathedralofFamagoustaformedtheprominentpoint；thereforeasteeple-chasemighthavebeenthedirectcross-countryway。Therewasnochangeintheusualfeaturesofthebarrenlandscape。Wekeptuponthehighgroundontheright，lookingdownuponthedrearyflatfortwentymilestoourleft。Occasionallywepassedvillages，allofwhichweremerecopiesofeachotherinfilthandsqualor。Thedogsbarkedandsnappedineffectuallyatourheelsaswecanteredthrough；thecivilandever-courteouspeopleturnedoutandsalaamed；andwequicklyaccomplishedthetwelvemilesandapproachedthewallsofFamagousta。NothingthatIsawinCyprushasimpressedmesomuchasthesiteofthispowerfulfortressandonceimportantcity。I

lunchedwithCaptainInglis，whoaschiefcommissionerofthedistrict，mostkindlyreceivedme，andIrodehomeafterwards；myguide，HadjiChristo，inspiteofmyassurancesthathehadmistakentheroute，persistedthatthereweremany，andnotone；andafterplungingintomuddymarshesinsteadofkeepingtothehighground，wewerecompletelylostnearsundown，whenIhappilyextricatedmyselffromthedifficultybyinsistinguponhisridingbehindandleavingmealonetofindthetrack。Wearrivedatnightfall，aftermakingeighteenmilesoutoftwelve——aprofitableenterprisehardlyappreciatedbyourtiredanimals。

Famagoustaistooimportantforacursorydescription；Ishallthereforereserveitforafuturechapter，whenonourreturnfromtheCarpasdistrictwepasssomedaysinitsimmediateneighbourhood。

CHAPTERV。

STARTFORTHECARPAS。

Ideterminedtoleavemytwovansinchargeofthehead-manofKuklia，asthedriversdeclareditwouldbeimpossibletoproceedintotheroadlessCarpaswithanywheeledconveyanceheavierthanthenativetwo-wheeledcart。TheyhadaccordinglyenteredintoacontracttosupplymewithvehicleswhichthemanofabilityTheodoriassuredmecouldtraveltotheextremeeasternlimitoftheisland，CapeSt。Andrea，“ashehadbeentherehimself，andknewtheway。“Georgi，whoknewnothingofthisportionofthecountry，believedallthatTheodorisaid，anddidhisbidding。Havinglightenedtheloadsbyleavingallthatwasnotabsolutelynecessarysafelylockedwithinthevans，westartedon1stMarchwithcamels，inadditiontotwonativecarts，takingtheroutedirecteast，acrosstheextensiveflatwhichatthistimewasdryandhard。Therewasnothingofinterestintheday"smarch；thetravellingwaseasyalongthehardenedlevelsurface；wehadaclearviewofthecathedralandhigherfortsofFamagousta，andwepassedneartheruinsofSalamis，easilydistinguishingthesolitarypillarsthathadsupportedtheancientaqueductwhichledthewaterfromdistantKythrea。

Althougheverythingwasthoroughlydriedup，itwaseasytoimaginetheeffectofaninundationofthePediasriver，whichhadformedthisdeltaofalluvium，preciselyastheNileonamoreextensivescalehasproducedtheDeltaofEgypt。Therewereafewwretchedvillagesupontheflat，whichwerenecessarilyonthepoorestscale，astheyexistedatthemercyofasuddeninundation。Theunhealthinessofthislocalitymustbeextremeduringwetweather，asitisonlysuitabletotheconstitutionsoffrogsandducks。UponarrivalathighergroundontheoppositesideoftheplainIlookedbackupontheagueishareaoverwhichwehadpassed，andIhadlittledoubtofthegreatengineeringnecessitythatmustbethefirststeptoasanitaryreforminthispestilentialneighbourhood。

AstheriverPediasisamerewaywardtorrentthatNEVERflowsasapermanentstream，butonlycomesdowninimpulsiverushesfromthemountainsduringheavyrains，ithasnopowertocleanseitsoriginalbed，suchaswouldresultfromaconstantandclearcurrent；but，onthecontrary，theheavyfloodsfromtheuppercountry，beingtheresultofasuddenrainfall，aresurchargedwithearthwasheddownfromthehighergroundandthicklyheldinsolution。Thisvastmassofsoil，whichaddsacorrespondingweighttoeachgallonofwater，iscarriedforwardaccordingtothevelocityofthestream，andisreadytodepositupontheinstantthatthepropellingpowershallbewithdrawn。Solongastheriverisconfinedbetweennarrowbanks，thehighrateofthecurrentissufficienttoforceforwardthethickenedandheavyfluid；buttheinstantthatthebanksareover-toppedandtheriverexpandsoveranincreasedarea，therapidityisreduced，andthewater，nolongerabletocontaintheearthinsolution，depositsalluvium，andproducesadelta，whichmustnecessarilyincreaseuponeveryfutureinundation。Theresultmustendeitherinformingabaratthemouthoftheriver，or(asinthePedias)inTHETOTALSILTINGOFTHEEMBOUCHURE，whichextinguishesalltracesofabroadchannel，butleavesaseriesofdeepmarshesscoredbyinnumerableditches，tobeintheirturnfilledwithmudwhenthenextfloodshallextendoverthewidesurfaceandincreasethedeposit。

ThisisthepositionofthePedias，anduntilimprovedIcannotforeseeagoodsanitaryprospectforFamagousta，whichissituatedonthebordersoftheswamp。Therecanbeonlyoneengineeringmethodofpreventingthesilt，byconfiningtheriverbetweenartificialbanks，withinachannelsufficientlynarrowtoensureacurrentwhosevelocitywouldcarrytheheavyfluiddirectlyintothesea。Evenshouldthisbeaccomplished，andtheriverbesecurelybanked，thedepositofmudwillthentakeplacewithinthesea，andwillassuredlyformabar；whichwillprobablyaffectbysilttheneighbouringharbourofFamagoustainthesamemannerthattheancientportofSalamishasbeencompletelyobliterated。Inanycasetheengineeringdifficultywillbecostlyanduncertain；butifFamagoustaistoberestoredtoitsformerimportanceasafirst-rateharbour，arsenal，andmilitarystation，themanagementofthePediasrivermustbeseriouslyconsidered。

WearrivedatTrichomoatabout3P。M。Thetownisbuiltuponthesidesandsummitofhighgroundwithinamileofthesea。Thesightofanarrowironchimneyemittingpuffsofsteamshowedthatsomeprogresswasexhibitedbythepresenceofanengine——thiswasemployedinworkingcotton-gins。

Thehousesweretheusualsun-bakedbricksofclayandchoppedstraw，andalthoughthetownwaslarge，therewasnobuildingofsufficientimportancetoattractattention。Werodethroughthestreetsdeterminedasusualtoavoidthesmellsofacloseproximityandtoseekacamping-placesomedistanceupontheoppositeside。Afterpassingthroughthetownanddescendingahill，wethenascendedasteepslopewhichopeneduponawildcountryofrockygroundcoveredwiththeusualpricklyplantsandscrubcypress，whichhadevidentlybeencutforfueluntilithadbecomemerebrushwood。Therewasasquaremudhutonthelefthandstandinginanextensiveorchardoffruit-treeswateredbyacattle-wheel，andasthiswasthelasthabitationwithinview，wehalted，andawaitedthearrivalofthecartsandcamels。Fromthesummitofthehill，abouttwohundredyardsbeyondthisspot，theviewwasexceedinglygood；thesealayabouthalfamiledistant，withseveralhousesandgardensneartheshore。Thetownwasinourrear，andtotheeastwasafineextentofwildcountrycoveredwithbushanddwarf-cypress，whichformedamarkedcontrasttothenakedsurfacewehadleftbehind。TheruggedwalloftheCarpasrangewasnowonlytenmilesdistantonourleft，andcontinuedparalleltoourroute……

Itwaslatewhenthecartsarrived，andwenowmissedtheusualluxuryofthegipsy-van。Ideterminedtosavetheservantsthetroubleoferectingourtent，thereforeforthefirsttimeinCyprusweoccupiedthenativedwelling。Thiswasasquarehutbuiltofstoneandmud，withtheusualhardmudroof。Fromitslargesizeitwasevidentthatanimalssharedtheroomwiththeproprietors。Anoldmanandacorrespondingoldwomangaveusawelcome，andimmediatelycommencedsweepingoutthefloorforouraccommodation；thismighthavebeenthirtyfeetbyeighteeninwidth。Afteracloudofdusthadrisen，andbydegreessubsided，wetookpossession；thecartsandcamelsarrived；bedshadtobeunpackedandsetup，andtheservantsbegantoreflectupontheadvantagesofthevanwhichsavedthemthepresenttrouble。Itwasalreadydusk，butthebedsweremade，andChristothecook(whowasacapitalfellowforspeedinpreparingadinner)wasenvelopedinsavourysteam，whentheusualinmatesofthehutquietlyinvadedus。Cocksandhensmarchedin，andwenttoroostuponsomestickswithinacorner；twoorthreedogsarrived，evidentlywiththeintentionofstayingthroughthenight；adonkeyatlengthwalkedcomposedlythroughtheentrancedoorandsteeredforhisaccustomedcorner。Wehadcausedseriousinconveniencetoanunknownquantityofanimals，allofwhomhadtobeturnedout，exceptthepoultry。Whatagoodthingisdinner！Theneattinytablewasspreadandthecandleslighted；thedishesweresimplebutexcellent；wewerethoroughlycomfortableinthisrudedwelling；

but——itmighthavebeenfancy——Ithoughtsomethingtickledmylegs。

Therewasnomistake，somethingdidactuallynotonlytickle，butbite。

Something？Itwaseverythingandeverybodyintheshapeoffleas！Thehutwashoppingwithcountlessswarmsofthesedetestablevermin，fromwhichinourimpregnablevanwehadhithertobeenfree，owingtoitsgreatheightfromtheground。Whethertheunusualsweepingofthefloorhadcreatedatemporaryaberrationofintellectorstupefactionamongthesecrowds，Icannotdetermine，butwhateverthenervousshockmighthavebeenthathadcausedashortsuspensionofactivity，theyhadnowcompletelyrecovered，andIshallneverforgetthenightpassedinTrichomo。ItwasthefirstandthelastventureuponnativehospitalitythroughoutoursojourninCyprus，andweinfutureadheredeithertothetentorthegipsy-van。

Onthefollowingmorningwestartedat8。30。Theskywasovercast，andinanycountrybutthisweshouldhaveexpectedrain。WehadnowfairlyemergeduponadistrictentirelydifferentfromthehatefulMessaria，whichhasgivenCyprusanunfortunatereputation。Wewerequicklyamongthicketsofscrubandlowbrushwoodwhichshouldhaveteemedwithgame。

Myspanielsdelightedinthechange，andworkedthebushthoroughlyasweproceededalongtheroute，occasionallyflushingtwoorthreered-leggedpartridges。Passingoverthehighergroundwiththeseainviewuponourright，wedescendedafteramarchofaboutthreemilestotheshore，wherethepathskirtedtheseaalongbrokenrocks，againstwhichinbadweatherthewaveswoulddashwithsufficientviolencetobartheroad。Thewhitecliffsandhill-topstoourleftwerecoveredwithdwarf-cypress，andformedalovelyforegroundabovethesea，perfectlycalmbeneath。Theridewasapparentlyshort，althoughwehadbeeninthesaddlethreehours，astheeyehadbeengratifiedbyaconstantchangeofscenery；——fromrockswashedbythebluewatertohillscoveredwithadensefoliageofevergreens，anddeepsequesteredvalleys，withoccasionalgapsintherangeofheightsthroughwhichglimpsesoftheseainrockycovesburstsuddenlyintoview。Someoftheseinletswereexceedinglypicturesque，asreefsextendedfromtheshore，overhangingcliffshavingfromtimetotimefalleninhugecragsandformednaturalbreakwaterstothebeach。Thesenarrowgapsbetweenthehillsweregenerallyoccupiedbyastreamletinthecentre，whichhadcutitswayfarbelowtheleveloftheground，thesteepbanksofwhichwerefringedwitholeanders，myrtles，mastic，andotherevergreens，downtowithinafewyardsofthebreakingwaves。Nothingcouldbeprettier，anduponarrivalwithinsightofVolokalida，aboutamileandahalfdistantintheextremeendofanarrowvalley，I

directedmywifetoacamping-placenearthevillage，beneathsomelargeandprominentcaroub-trees，whileIdismounted，andwithmydelighteddogscommencedarambleoverthelowwoodswhichcoveredthesidesandhill-topstoourrightandleft。Thewalkwasenjoyable；wehadmadefourteenmilesfromTrichomo，anduponreachingtheperfectlyflattablelandwhichformedthesummitofthehillsIhadasplendidsea-viewextendingformanymilesalongthecoast。Thefirstobjectthatattractedmyattentionwasalargesteamerstrandedinacoveaboutamiledistant。Shelookedperfectlysnug，butasonlyherlowermastswerestanding，andfunnelgone，therecouldbenodoubtofhermisadventure。Mybinocularglassquicklyshowedthataportionofherbulwarkswascarriedaway，andasnochainwasvisibletoananchor，shewasinfactawreck。AsImademywaythroughthethickbushesMerrypresentlyopeneduponascent，andWiserunninginamongtherocks，flushedafinefrancolinpartridge，whichIshot。Ithengotaquailandahare，andhadnootherchances，althoughtheappearanceofthecountrywouldhavesuggestedanabundanceofgame。UponnearingtheseashoreI

sawthatextensivesand-duneshadinvadedtheheightsformanyhundredyards，completelychokingthevegetationandformingclumpsormoundsofsand，toppedbytuftsoftheshrubsthatlayburieddeepbeneath。I

walkedalongthefatiguinggrounduntilIreachedtheshoreexactlyoppositetheabandonedwreck，whichlaywithinacove，intowhichshehadevidentlybeenrunforsecurity。

Mydogsfoundseveralharesamongtheclumpsuponthesand-dunes，whichgavethemsomeexerciseandamusement，butIdidnotobtainashot。

Uponmyarrivalatthecamping-placeIfoundmywifesurroundedbyalargecrowdofwomenandchildrenbeneathashadytree，allofwhomhadbroughtpresentsofeggsandbouquetsofwildflowers。Itwasdifficulttopersuadethesegoodsimplepeoplethatwedidnotrequirepresentsasanetiquetteofintroduction；theywouldinsistuponplacingtheirlittleofferingsupontheground，andleavingthemifwedeclinedtoacceptthem。Theprincipalwildflowerswerecyclamen，narcissus，andanemone。Thecyclamencompletelycoveredthegroundthroughoutallthelowwoodsandthickets。Icouldonlyfindtwovarieties，thesnow-white，withclaret-colouredcentre，andtherose-colour；buttheblossomswerequiteequalinsizetothoseusuallygrowninourglass-housesinEngland。WehadpassedthroughseveralhundredacresofopengroundthatwereaswhitefromtheabundanceofnarcissusasanEnglishmeadowmightbeyellowfromthepresenceofbuttercups。

Ourcampwaspitcheduponasmalllevelplateauofrock，inthecentreofwhichwasawell，cutcompletelythroughthestonefromtoptobottom。Itappearedtobeabouttwenty-fivefeetdeep，butwasdevoidofwaterandcontainedaconsiderableamountofrubbish。ThepeopleassuredmethatadeadGreeklaybeneath，asafewyearsagosomeTurkshadkilledoneoftheirpeopleandthrownhimintothewell；theyhadconcealedthebodybystonesandrubbish，andnofurtherstepshadbeentakeninthematter。Asalargecrowdofchildrenofbothsexesweresittingroundusdoingnothingbutstare，Isetthemtoworktoclearthesurfacegroundfromloosestonesandtosweeptheplateaucleanwithboughsfromthewildcypress。WhenthiswasfinishedIgavethemascrambleforseveralhandfulsofcoppercoinsupontheclearedarea，toimpressthempleasantlyupontheirworkofcleanliness；thisnewgamebecameverypopular，andmightbeintroducedbytheBritishgovernmentwithacertaintyofgainingtheadmirationoftheCypriotes，especiallyduringthecollectionoftaxes；thelatterbeinganAnglo-Turkishgamewhichisnotyetsufficientlyappreciated。

Thewomenwereofthesametypethatwehadseeninotherdistricts，buttheyappearedsickly，andmanyofthechildrenwereextremelydelicate。

TherewastheusualprotuberanceoftheabdomentowhichIhavebeforealluded；andIfounduponexaminationofthechildrenthatanenlargementofthespleenwasachroniccomplaint。Thisisduetorepeatedattacksofague。Idrewtheattentionofthepeopletothesogeneralmistakeinthisislandofselectingasitefortheirvillagesinthemostunhealthylocalities。Wewerenowcampeduponaheightabouteightyfeetabovethevalley，whichresembledabasinbeneathourfeet；

thevillagewasonthelowerlevelofthisbasin，andasneartheleveloftheseaaspossible。Inheavyrainsthevalleybecameatemporaryswamp，anditseemedunaccountablethathumanbeingsendowedwithcommonsenseshouldhaveselectedthelowgroundinsteadoftheimmediateheights。Theexplanationwas“thatasthevillagewasbuiltofmud-bricks，thehouseshadbeenerectedasnearaspossibletothesourceofthematerial，MUD！”toavoidthedifficultyofcarriageintheabsenceofcarts。

Thepeoplewereasusualdressedincottonstuffsofhomemanufacture，andwereignorantofsuchamaterialasflannel；thechildrenwereonlyhalf-clad，andshivering；theirfoodwasgenerallyraw，comprisingolives，oil，onions，andwildvegetables，suchasartichokes，wildmustard，andavarietyoftrashthatinEnglandwouldonlyberegardedas“weeds。“Thereweresomeprettyintelligentlittlegirlsandboys；

someofthesewerechewingmasticgum，awhiteleatherysubstancewhichtheygatheredfromincisionsinthebarkofthiscommonshrub。Mywifefoundfaultwiththeneglectofcleanliness，astheirteeth，althougheven，weretotallyuncaredfor。Onthefollowingmorningtheyallassembledandexhibitedashowofnicewhiteteeth，astheyhadfollowedheradviceandcleanedthemwithwood-ashesandtheirforefingers，inlieuofatoothbrush。Wesawthesechildrenagainamonthafterwardsuponourreturn，andtheyranacrossthefieldstomeetus，atonceopeningtheirmouthstoshowthattheyhadnotforgottenthelesson，andthattheirteethwereproperlyattendedto。Ipitiedallthesepoorpeople：theyaredowntroddenandmiserableinmindandbody。Insteadofsqueezingthemfortaxestheyshouldbesupportedandencouragedbygovernmentassistanceineverymannerpossible。Centuriesofoppressionandneglectinadditiontoadeceptiveclimatehaverenderedthemthemereslavesofcircumstances，buttheyexhibitapatienceandstolidendurancewhichisbeyondallpraise；andwhenCyprusshallbelongabsolutelytoGreatBritain，sothattheCypriotesshallfeelthattheyareBritishsubjects，theywillbecomethemostamenableandcontentedpeopleintheEmpire。

TheusualdifficultyexistsinpassingthroughthisislandwhichisfeltbymostEnglishtravellersinwildcountries。Thesickinvariablyassemble，believingthatyourmedicalknowledgewillproducemiraculouscures；andthelame，halt，andblindbesiegeyouevencripplesfromtheirbirtharebroughtbytheirhopefulmotherstoreceivesomethingfromyourmedicine-chestthatwillrestorethemtostrength。ItwasinvainthatIexplainedtotheseafflictedpeoplethatspleen-diseaserequiredalongcourseofmedicine，andcouldnotbecuredinaday。ItwasequallyinvainthatIassuredthemthatrawvegetableswereunwholesomeforchildren，andthatsea-bathingwasinvigoratingtothesystem：theyhatedbathing；sodidthechildren；andtheylikedrawvegetables。Iwasobligedtogivethemsometriflewhichcouldneitherdoharmnorgood；andtheywentawaycontented。

Inowdiscoveredfromthehead-menofthevillagethecauseofthewreckwhichwaslyinginthebay。AnAustriansteamerwasconveying1200

CircassiansfromConstantinopletosomeportonthecoastofAsiaMinor，whenthewildhordeofemigrantsmutiniedandthreatenedtomurderthechiefofficers。Thecaptainaccordinglyranthevesselashoreuponthiscoast，havingorderedtheengineertoblowuptheboilers。

Agreatnumberofthemutineersperishedintheattempttoland，butthecaptainandofficerswerehospitablyreceivedbythepeopleofVolokalidaandforwardedtoFamagousta。Thevesselwaspiercedamidshipsbyarockthathadcompletelyimpaledher，otherwiseshemighthavebeensavedandrepaired。

WeleftthisvillageonMarch4th，aheavybutwelcomeshowerontheprecedingdayhavinglaidthedustandfreshenedthevegetation。Theroutelaythroughahillyandrockycountrycoveredwiththeusualevergreens。Wequicklylostourwayandarrivedatacompletecul-de-sacinthecornerofanarrowswampyvalley。Retracingourstepswemettwomenmountedondonkeys，whowithextremecivilityturnedfromtheirowndirectionandbecameourguides。Wepassedoverahillofsolidcrystallisedgypsum，whichsparkledinthesunlikeglass，andafteramarchofabouttenmilesthroughalovelycountryweascendedtotheplateauofLithrankomiandhaltedatthemonastery。Thepriestwasanagreeable，well-manneredman，andasrainhadbeguntofallheinsisteduponouracceptinghisinvitationtoawaitthearrivalofourluggageunderhisroof。Wevisitedhiscuriousoldchurch，whichissadlyoutofrepair，andthemosaic，ofacoarsedescription，whichcoveredanarchedceiling，hasmostlydisappeared。

ThiswasthemostagreeablepositionthatIhadseeninCyprus。Averyextensiveplateauabout400feetabovetheseaformedanaturalterraceforsevenoreightmiles，backedbytheequallyflathill-topswhichroseonlyhalfamilebehindthemonastery。ThesewerecoveredwiththePinusMaritima，noneofwhichexceededtwentyfeetinheight，andresembledathrivingyoungplantationinEngland。Fromtheflatpine-coveredtablelandIhadaverybeautifulviewoftheseaoneithersidethisnarrowportionoftheisland，andoftherichly-woodedslopesbothnorthandsouth，cutbydeepanddarkwater-rivengorges，withwhitecliffswhichdescendedtotheshore。Villagesandsnow-whitechurcheslaybeneathinalldirections，andthecropshadafarmorefavourableappearancethanthoseoftheMessaria，asthisportionofthecountryhadexperiencedasuperiorrainfall。

Itismuchtoberegrettedthatthetotalabsenceofroadsexcludesthisdistrictfromgeneralcommunication。Wewerestruckbythefantasticsceneryofdeepravines，rockscoveredwithevergreensofvaryingcolours，andhandsomecaroub-treeswhichwouldhaveornamentedanEnglishpark；mulberry-treeswereverynumerous，butatthisseasontheywerebarrenofleaves；theonlywantlayintheabsenceoforangesandlemons，whichthepriestassuredmewouldnotthriveinthislocality。

ForthelasttwomonthsIhadcordiallydetestedCyprus，butIwasnowconvertedtoabeliefthatsomeportionsofthecountrywerethoroughlyenjoyable，providedthatatravellercouldbecontentedwithroughfareandbeaccustomedtothehappyindependenceofacamp-lifewithagoodtentandhardyservants。Thetemperaturewasalittletoolowforout-doorexistence，asitaveraged48degreesat7A。M。and54degreesat3P。M。，whichisthehottesthouroftheday；butwewereallwell，andfreefromcolds；theservantshadplentyofwarmblankets，andthefalsefloorthatIhadarrangedaddedgreatlytotheircomfortwhencampinguponthesoddenground。

Ihadbecomeconvincedthat“themanofability“Theodorihaddeceivedme，andthatitwouldbeimpossibleforthetwo-wheeledcarts，oranyotherconveyance，totravelthroughthiscountry。Ourlasttwomarcheshadprovedthatnotonlywouldthedelaybeserious，buttheluggagewouldbedestroyedbytheextremejoltingoverrocksandruts，whichhadalreadyinjuredseveralofourboxesandbrokensomeusefularticles。

Everypackageseemedtoassumeanindividualvitalityandtoattackitsneighbour；thesharp-corneredmetalboxesendeavouredtotunnelthroughthecasesofwineandliquors，whichinretaliationbumpedagainstandbruisedtheirantagonists，andafewmarcheshadalreadycausedmoremischiefthanatwelvemonth"sjourneybycamels。ThepriestassuredmethatitwouldbemadnesstoattemptamarchbeyondGallibornu，aboutelevenmilesinadvance，andthathedoubtedthepossibilityofthecartsreachingthatpoint，whichcertainlyhadneverbeenvisitedbyanywheeledconveyances。Thehonest，strong，butunintelligentdriverGeorgiwasinnocent，andhewasatthetimeasignorantasmyselfthatthetrueobjectofthe“manofability“Theodoriwastodealincattle，whichwashisreasonforpersistinginaccompanyingmeintotheCarpascountryanddeclaringthattheroutewaspracticableforcarts。WeleftLithrankomion5thMarchafterashowerwhichmadetheearthslipperyandthedangerousportionsoftherouteratherexcitingforthecarts。Thefirsttwoorthreemileslayalongthelevelterracecommandingasplendidviewoftheseaaboutfourmilesdistant。Wepassedthroughseveralvillages，andthecropslookedwell。Atlengthweemergeduponawildportionoftheplateauwhichresembledapark，thesurfacebeinggreenanddiversifiedbyornamentalclumpsofevergreens；uponourleftwasthecliff-likehigherterracewhichformedthetable-topfromwhichtheusualhugeblockshadbeendetachedandfallenlikeinvertedcottagestothelowerlevel。Theviewonourrightwasexceedinglyinteresting，aswehadnowarrivedupontheextremevergeoftheterrace，whichbrokedownsuddenlyintoahorseshoe-shapedamphitheatre，thesteepsidescoveredwithbushesandtrees，tothebottomofavalleysome300feetbelow，whichdrainedthroughanarrowandrichly-woodedgorgeintotheneighbouringsea。

Thisscooping-outofthecountrywasduetotheactionofwater，andthesameprocesswasgraduallywearingawaytheupperplateaux，whichbyabsorbingrainbecameunderminedasitpercolatedthroughanddissolvedthemarlysubstratum。Thefoundationoftherocksurfacebeingsoftenedbythewater，oozedintheformofmud，andwaswasheddownthesteepdeclivities，followedbythebreaking-downoftheunsupportedupperstratum。ThisdistrictwasanadmirableillustrationofthedecayanddenudationofsurfacewhichhasproducedtheplainofMessaria，towhichIhavealreadyalluded，butasnosufficientareaexistsatalowerlevelthedepositofsoiliscarriedtothesea。Wenowarrivedatadangerouspassthatdefiedallattemptstodescendbycarts。A

successionofzigzagsataninclinationofaboutonefootintwoandahalfleddownthesoilofacliffintoasuccessionofexceedinglynarrowvalleysaboutthreehundredfeetbelow。Inmanyplacesthisnarrowpathhadbeenwashedawaybythesamenaturalprocessthatwasgraduallyreducingtheupperlevel，andinthesharpanglesofthezigzagstherewereawkwardgapswithonlyafewinchesofslipperysoilrenderedsoapybythemorning"srain，aslipoftheoriginalpathhavingcrumbleddowntheprecipicebelow。Theanimalswerewonderfullycareful，andalthoughanervouspersonmighthaveshudderedatsomeawkwardpoints，bothmuleandponieswerethoroughlyself-confidentandsafelycarriedustothebottom。Butthecarts？Theseweremakingacircuitofsomemilesacrosscountryintheendeavourtodiscoverapracticableroute。

Althoughthewaywasdifficult，itwasthemoreagreeableasthescenerywasextremelypicturesque。Thenarrowvalleyswerewithoutexceptioncultivated，whichformedastrikingcontrasttotheexceedinglywildheightsbywhichtheyweresurrounded，andIremarkedthatnotayardofavailablelandwasneglected，butthatsmallandprecipitoushollowswerebankedbyroughstonewalls，toretainthesoilthatwouldotherwisebewashedaway，andtoformterracesofinsignificantextentforthesakeofcultivation。Ouranimalscouldambleatfiveorsixmilesanhouralongthesenarrowbottoms，whichmadeupforthedelayindescendingthebadplaces。Mydogswereinthebestspirits，astheyhadmovedaconsiderablenumberofpartridgesduringthismorning"smarch，andtheyheardthepeculiarloud“chuck-a-chuck，chuck-a-chuck，“ofthered-legsinalldirections。Asweadvancedthehillsincreasedinheight，andwepassedthroughavalley，borderedontherightbyabruptcliffs，formingawall-likesummittotheexceedinglysteepslopebeneath，whichhadbeencreatedbythedebrisfromthewastingfaceofrock。Thisflat-toppedheightmayhavebeenabout500feetabovethevalley，andthewhitecliff，whichwasquiteperpendicularfromthesummitforaboutonehundredfeettothecommencementofthesteepgreenslopebeneath，wasinoneplaceartificiallyscarped，andhadbeencutperfectlysmoothlikethewallofastonebuilding。Inthecentreofthissmoothfacewecouldplainlydistinguishasquare-cutentrance，towhichanexceedinglynarrowledgecutintherockformedamostdangerousapproach，moreadaptedforwildcatsthanforhumanoccupants。

Ihaltedtoexaminethiswithagoodglass，andIcouldperceivethatthegreatestcarehadbeentakenintheformationofasmoothperpendicularfront，andthatthenarrowledgewhichformedtheapproachwasanaturalfeaturethathadbeenartificiallyimproved。Therewereseveralsimilarlinesobservableatunequaldistancesnearlyparallelwitheachother：thesewerethenaturallimitsofoverlyingstratainthesedimentaryrock，which，asthegeneralsurfacehadfallenthroughdecay，stillpreservedtheircharacter，andformedledges。Myguideassuredusthattheentirecliffwashoney-combedbyinternalgalleries，whichhadbeenconstructedbytheancientsasaplaceofrefugethatwouldcontainseveralthousandpersons，andthatawellexistedintheinterior，whichfromagreatdepthsuppliedthewater。I

haveneverseenanoticeofthisworkinanybookuponCyprus，andI

regretthatIhadnoopportunityofmakingacloseexaminationoftheartificialcave，which，fromtheaccountsIreceived，remainsinaperfectstatetothepresentmoment。

ItwasawildroutetoGallibornu，throughasuccessionofsmallvalleysseparatedbywoodedheights，andboundedbyhills，eitherbareinwhitecliffs，orwithsteepslopesthicklycoveredwithevergreens。Wepassedafewmiserablevillages，oneofwhichwassolelyinhabitedbygipsies，whocameouttomeetuscladinragsandextremelyfilthy，butthefacesofthewomenweregood-looking。Wecrossednumerouswatercoursesinthenarrowbottomsbetweenthehills；theirsteepbankswerefringedwithbusheswhichformedlikelyspotsforwoodcocks，butmydogsfoundnothingupontherouteexceptafewpartridgesandfrancolin，although，asusual，theyhuntedthroughoutthemarch。Aftercrossingaseriesofsteephills，andobservingamarkedcontrastinthehabitsofthepeople，whoconstructedtheirdwellingsupontheheightsinsteadofintheunhealthyglens，wearrivedinthecloselypent-invalleythatformstheapproachtoGallibornu。Thisvillageisofconsiderableextent，andisinhabitedexclusivelybyTurks。Weenteredthevalleythroughanarrowgapbetweenthehills，whichonourleftformedperpendicularcliffs，withtheusualsteepslopesofdebrisnearthebase。Theuppercliffs，about400feetabovethelowerlevel，weremarkedwithnumerousparallelledgesandwerefullofblue-rockpigeons，whichbuilttheirnestsinthecleftsandcrevices；thesummitsoftheseheightswerethetable-topswhichcharacterisethisformation。

Itwasdifficulttoselectacamping-place，asthevalleywouldbecomemudintheeventofheavyrains。WehadexperienceddailyshowerssinceweleftVolokalida，andthelowergroundsweredamp；Idislikedtheimmediateneighbourhoodofavillage，andtheonlyavailablespotwasratherdangerous，asitwassituateduponaflattishknoll，sonearthebaseofthecliffthatenormousblocksofstonemanytonsinweightlayinalldirections，whichhadfallenfromtheimpendingheights。I

examinedthese，andfoundsomethatwerecomparativelyrecent；Ihadalsoobserveduponourentrancetothevalleythatagreatportionoftheclifffacehadlatelyfallen，forminganavalancheofrocksthatwouldhavedestroyedavillage：thismyguideinformedmewastheresultoflastyear"sexcessiverain。Iexaminedtheheightsaboveuswithmyglass，andobservedsomecragsthatPolyphemuswouldhavedelightedtohurluponAciswhencourtinghisGalatea；butasnoCyclopsexistedinthisclassicalislandIdeterminedtoriskthechancesofarock-displacementandtopitchthetentuponaflatsurfaceamongthefallenblocks。Asarulesuchlocalitiesshouldbeavoided。Itisimpossibletocalculatetheprobabledownfallofacrag，which，havingformedaportionofthecliff，hasbeenunderminedbythebreakingawayoflowerrocks，and，overhangingtheperpendicular，maybesecureduringdryweather，butmaybecomedislodgedinheavyrain，whenthecement-likesurroundingsaredissolved：theseriousvibrationcausedbythundermightinsuchconditionsproduceanavalanche。Wedugadeeptrenchroundthetents，astheweatherlookedovercastandstormy。

ThevillageofGallibornuwasabouthalfamilebeyondourcampattheextremeendofthevalley，butsituatedontheheights。Thepeoplewereextremelycivil，anditwouldbedifficulttodeterminethemaximumdegreeofcourtesybetweentheTurksandGreeksofCyprus。Istrolledwithmydogsupthesteephill-sides，andtheTurks，seeingthatIwasfondofshooting，promisedtoaccompanymeonthefollowingmorningtosomehappyhunting-ground，which，frommyCyprianexperience，Ibelievedwasmythical。

OnwakingthenextdayIfoundtheTurks，truetotheirpromise，alreadyassembledbytheservants"tent，andeightmenwereawaitingmewiththeirguns。Theyhadasportingdogtoassistthem，whichtheydescribedas“veryusefulforfollowingawoundedhare；onlyitwasnecessarytobequickinsecuringit，otherwisethedogwouldeatitbeforeyourarrival。“

Iadvisedthemtoleavethis“usefuldog“behind，ashostilitiesmightbedeclaredbymythreeEnglishspanielsintheeventofhisswallowingawoundedhare。Thisbeingagreedto，weallstarted，and，crossingthevalley，enteredagorgeupontheotherside。Wenowascendednakedhillsofpurecrystallisedgypsum；thestratawerevertical，andtheperfectlytransparentlaminaewerepackedtogetherlikesmallsheetsofglassonlyafewinchesinwidth。Itwaseasytowalkupthesteepslopesofthismaterialwithoutslipping，astheexterioredges，havingbeenexposedtotheweather，hadbecomerough，andwereexactlylikecoarseglassplacededgeways。Wespreadoutintoalineofskirmishersextendingupthehillsuponbothsidesofthegorge，andquicklyarrivedinverylikelygroundcoveredwithdwarf-cypress。Herethedogsimmediatelyflushedpartridges，andaTurkhavingwoundedone，aconsiderabledelaytookplaceinsearchingforitatthebottomofadeepwoodedhollow，buttonopurpose。Wenowarrivedatlovelygroundwithinamileofthesea，formingalongsuccessionofundulations，covered，moreorless，withtheusualevergreenbrushwoodasfarastheeyecouldreach。Thisunevensurface，brokenbymanywatercourses，wasabouteightyfeetabovethewater-level，anddescendedinsteeprockyledgestowithinafewhundredyardsofthesea，wherethelowergroundwasflatandalternatedinopengladesandthickmassesofmasticscrub；thebeachbeingedgedbydriftsand-dunescoveredbythedensejungleofvariousmattedbushes。

Therewasafairamountofgameinthislocality，andhadtheTurksshotwellweshouldhavemadeatolerablebag；buttheydidnotkeepagoodline，andmanybirdswentbackwithoutbeingshotat，whileothersweremissed，andaltogethertheshootingwasextremelywild。Thesunwashotbythetimewehadconcludedourbeat；Ihadshotfivebraceandonehare，includingsomefrancolins；andtherestofthepartyhadcollectivelybaggedthreebrace。Itwaslateintheseasonforshooting，butthebirdswerenotallpaired，andIhavenodoubtthatinthemonthofSeptemberthisportionoftheislandwouldaffordfairsport，althoughnogreatbagscouldbeexpected。Iwassurprisedattheabsenceofwoodcocks；throughoutmyramblesinCyprusIhadonlyseenone，althoughtheywerecheapinthemarketofLarnaca。Thefactisthateverybirdshotbythenativesissentstraightforsale；thereforeanimmenseareaishuntedforthesmallsupplyrequiredbytheEuropeansintheprincipaltowns。Uponourreturnhomewardswepassedthroughaconsiderablespaceoccupiedbyancientruins。Amongthemassesofstonesandbrokenpotteryweretwostonesarcophagi，whichappearedtohavebeenconvertedintodrinking-troughsforcattle。AswithalltheruinsofCyprus，nothingofinterestexistsuponthesurface，andthetombshavingbeenformanycenturiesexcavatedanddespoiled，itisprobablethatthesarcophagihadbeenbroughttolightbytreasure-seekersmanyyearsago。

AsweapproachedGallibornubyamountainpaththeTurksassuredmethatweshouldfindgooddrinking-water；wewereallthirsty，includingthedogs，whohaddrunknothingforsomehours。Atlength，ataconsiderableelevationbetweentwohills，wereachedaspring，andIwasshownawellwherethewaterwasonlyafewfeetfromthesurface。TheTurksnowpointedtotheperpendicularfaceofacliffanddesiredmetofollowthem；atthesametimeIcouldnotunderstandtheirattemptedexplanationseitherbywordorpantomime。Wekeptonanextremelynarrowpathwhichskirtedthesteepsideoftheslope，andpresentlyarrivedataledgeaboutsixteenincheswideupontheperpendicularfaceofthecliff，whichdescendedsheerforaconsiderabledepthbeneath。Iwasrequestedtoleavemygunagainstarockandtofollow。Itwasallverywellforthesepeople，whoknewexactlywheretheyweregoing，butIhadnottheslightestideaofmydestination，unlessitshouldbethebottomofthecliff，whichappearedtomemostprobable，ifI，whowasmanyinchesbroaderintheshouldersthanmyguides，shouldbeexpectedtojoininthegameof“followtheleader“uponanarrowledgeagainstthefaceoftherockwhichaffordednoholdwhatever。IwasnotsofondofclimbingasIhadbeenthirtyyearsago，andtomyinfinitedisgusttheledge，whichwasalreadyhorriblysmall，becamenarrowerasweproceeded。Therewasanastyprojectingcornertoturn，andatthispointIsawmyguideslookdownbelow，andIfanciedtheywerespeculatinguponthedepth。Insteadofthis，theleaderbegantodescendtheperpendicularfacebysmallladder-likestepshewnintherock，andinthismannergainedanotherledgenotquitesixfeetbelow。Weallreachedthisprecariousshelf，andtheguide，havingturned，continuedforsometwentyorthirtyyardsinanexactlycontrarydirectiontotheledgeaboveus，bywhichwehadjustarrived；wewerethusretracingourstepsuponasimilarledgeatalowerlevel。Suddenlytheleaderstopped，andstoopinglow，creptintoasquareaperturethathadbeencarefullycutoutoftherockfacetoformanentrance。Thispassageinclinedslightlyinwards，andafterafewpacesforward，withthebodycurvedintheuncomfortableformofacapitalC，wearrivedinaspaciousgallerycutintoasuccessionofarches，thecentreofwhichwassixfeethigh。Asmallwindow，aboutthreefeetbytwo，wascutthroughtherocktoadmitlightandair，fromwhichIcouldwithariflehavecompletelycommandedtheglenbelowandtheapproachtotheleft。

Therewasnoledgebeneaththewindow，butsimplythesheerprecipiceofthesmoothcliff，andtherewasnootherapproachtothisextraordinaryplaceofrefugeexceptthatbywhichwehadarrived。Thegallerywasneatlycut，andextendedforanunknowndistance：severalothergalleries，archedinthesamemannerandofthesamesize，branchedoffatrightangleswiththatwehadentered。Iwasledtoawell，whichwasrepresentedasbeingdeep，andIwasinformedthatthehillwasperforatedwithsimilargalleries，allofwhichcommunicatedwitheachother。Imuchregrettedthatwewereunprovidedwithcandles；oneoftheTurkslightedamatch，butitonlyservedtoincreasetheuncertaintyofthesurroundingdarkness。

Thismustbeasimilarcave-refugetothatwehadpassedaboutfourmilesdistantwhenonourwayfromLithrankomitoGallibornu，anditdeservesaminuteinvestigation。AsIcouldseenothingbeyondaboutthirtyfeetfromthewindow，owingtothedarkness，Icannotgiveanyaccountoftheactualdimensions，whichmaybemuchinferiortotheunlimiteddescriptionsofmyinformants。UponmyreturntocampIhadthebenefitofmyinterpreter，andthestorywasrepeatedthatnooneknewtheextentoftheexcavations，eitherofthesegalleriesorthosewehadpassedduringourjourney。IhaveneverseenaverylargenaturalcaveinCyprus，althoughthecavernsbeneaththesuperficialstratumofsedimentaryrockaresogeneral。Thepresenceofthesehollows，andthesoftnatureofthecalcareousstone，hassuggestedartificialcavestotheancients，bothfortombsandforplacesofrefuge。BeforetheinventionofgunpowderitwouldhavebeenimpossibletoreduceafortsuchasIhavedescribed，exceptbystarvation。Aminesunkverticallyfromabovewouldinthepresentdaydestroythesubterraneanstrongholdatthefirstexplosion。

ItrainedmoreorlesseverydayduringourstayatGallibornu，andthunderrolledheavilyintheneighbourhood；butinthenarrowvalleybetweenloftyhillstheskyviewwassolimitedthatitwasimpossibletojudgeoftheimpendingweather。Theearthwastooslipperyforcamels，whichIhadengagedwithanexcellentTurk，whoforsomeyearshadbeenazaphtieh，thereforeitwasnecessarytowaitpatientlyuntilthesurfaceshouldbecomedry。Iamusedmyselfwithwanderingoverthehillswithmydogs，examiningtherocks，andshootingsufficientgameforourownuse。Icouldgenerallybagenoughformyladtocarryhomeconvenientlyoverthisruggedcountry，andahareortwoinadditiontopartridgesweremoreappreciatedwhenstewedthanwhencarrieduptheprecipitoushills。InevertastedanygamesodeliciousastheCyprianhares；theyarenotquitesoredorcurlyastheEuropeanspecies，butthefleshisexceedinglyrich，andpossessesapeculiarlygameyflavour，owingtothearomaticfooduponwhichtheylive。Itisdifficulttoobtainashotinthethickcovertsofmasticbush，andwithoutdogsIdonotthinkIshouldhaveshotone，astheyweregenerallyindensethicketsuponthemountainsides，throughwhichbeaterscouldhavehardlymoved。

Thehighcliffsaboveusformedanexcellentexampleofanoldsea-bottom，showing——thevariousstrataofsedimentarydepositsatdifferentperiods。Imadeacollectionoffossilshells，whichwereingreatnumbersbutinlimitedvariety，andchieflybivalves。

AlthoughthevillageofGallibornuwasmoreimportantinsizethanmanywehadpassed，therewasatotallackofsupplies。Itwasimpossibletopurchasebread，andwewereobligedtosendmessengerstoconsiderabledistancestoprocureflour，whichwesubsequentlyemployedawomantobake。Thepeoplegenerallywereverypoorthroughoutthecountry，andthecultivatedareaappearedinsufficientforthesupportofthepopulation。Everyyardoflandwasploughed，buttheentirevalleyofGallibornuwasfallowed，anddidnotpossessonebladeofcorn，asthesoilrequiredrestaftertheyieldofthepreviousseason。Noneofthesepeoplehaveanidearespectingasuccessionofcropsinscientificrotation，thereforealossissustainedbytheimpoverishmentoftheground，whichmustoccasionallylieinactivetorecoveritsfertility。

Thereisabsolutelynoprovisionwhateverforthecattleintheshapeofroot-cropsorhay，buttheytrustentirelytothebruisedbarley-strawandsuchseedsasthecottonandlentil。AtthisseasontheCarpasdistrictpossessedanimportantadvantageinthevarietyofwildvegetableswhichaffordednourishmentformanandbeast；thevalleysteemedwithwildartichokesandwithavarietyofthistles，whosesucculentstemswereafavouritefoodforbothoxenandcamels。

Theleaf-stemsoftheartichokeswerepeeledandeatenrawbytheinhabitants，butasthesepeopleareaccustomedtoconsumeallkindsofuncookedvegetablesandunripefruitsfewcivilisedpersonswouldindulgeintheCypriotetastes。Wefoundtheartichokestemsuneatableinarawstate，butremarkablygoodwhenpeeledandstewed，withasauceofyolkofeggbeatenupwithoil，salt，pepper，andlemon-juice；theywerethenquiteequaltosea-kale。ThereisageneralneglectinthecultivationofvegetableswhichIcannotunderstand，asagricultureistheCypriote"svocation；itcanhardlybecalledlaziness，astheyaremostindustriousintheirfields，andexpendanimmenseamountoflabourinerectingstonewallstoretainasmallamountofsoilwhereverthewater-washfromahigherelevationbringswithitadeposit。Theinsignificantterracesthusformedbyearthcaughtinitsdescentwhileinsolutionappeardisproportionedtothelabouroftheirconstruction，andthelaborioussystemwouldsuggestanextremescarcityoflandsuitableforagriculturaloperations。Ibelievethistobethecase，andthataseriousmistakehasbeenmadeinassumingthattheCrownpossesseslargeareasoflandthatmayeventuallybecomeofgreatvalue。

Therearegovernmentlands，doubtless，ofconsiderableextent，butI

questiontheiragriculturalimportance，andwhenevertheordnance-mapoftheislandshallbecompletedawildconfusionwillbediscoveredinthediscrepancyoftitle-deedswiththeamountoflandinpossessionoftheowners。Ihave，whilstshootinginthewildtractsofscrub-coveredhillsandmountains，frequentlyemergeduponclearingsofconsiderableextent，wherethenativeshavecapturedafertileplotandcleareditforcultivation，farawayfromtheeyesofallauthorities。

Ibelievethatsquattinghasbeencarriedonformanyyears，asduringtheTurkishadministrationatriflingannualpresentwouldhaveclosedtheeyesofthenever-too-zealousofficialwhobysuchanoversightcouldannuallyimprovehispay。Landsuitableforcultivationcannotpossiblybeinexcessofthedemand，whenplotsofonlyafewyardssquarearecarefullyformedbytheerectionofstonewallstoretainthetorrent-collectedsoil。

Wewerepesteredwithbeggarsthroughoutthisdistrict，andeventheblindsawtheiropportunity；theirnumberwasdistressing，andtheycouldnotaccountinanywayfortheprevalenceofophthalmia。Someendeavouredtoexplainthecausebyreferringittothebrightreflectionfromthesea，towhichtheyweresofrequentlyexposed；I

assuredthemthatsailorswereseldomblind，andtheyprovedtherule。

Dirtyhabits，dwellingsunwashed，heapsoffilthlyingaroundtheirhousesandrottingintheirstreets，allofwhichduringthehotdrysummerisconvertedintopoisonousdust，and，drivenbythewind，fillstheeyes，whichareseldomcleansed——thesearethenaturalcauseswhichresultinophthalmia。

Thenewcamelswereready，andwithsixoftheseanimalsweleftGallibornuandfeltrelievedtohavepartedwiththecarts，asforseveralmarchestheyhadcausedgreatdelayandinconvenience。AlthoughTheodorihaddeceivedmebyagreeingtoconductusdirecttoCapeSt。

AndreaIdidnotliketodischargethethick-headedbutinnocentGeorgi，thereforeIofferedtopaythemacertainsumwhichtheythemselvesnamed，perday，forthekeepoftheiroxen，providedtheyshouldreturnwiththeiremptycartstoLithrankomi(onemarch)andawaitmyreturnthere；afterwhich，wewouldresumetheoriginalcontract，andtheiroxenwouldoncemoredrawthevansfromtheirstationatKuklia。

Thiswasanextraexpense，asthecamelswerenowengagedinlieuofcarts，notwithstandingthatIshouldhavetopayfortheoxen；ontheotherhand，theseanimalswerebeautifulspecimensoftheirkind，andwerethoroughlyaccustomedtothegipsy-van，thereforeitwasadvisabletoretainthem。Thetwoownersweredelightedwiththearrangement，andwestartedforCapeSt。Andrea，whiletheyweretoreturntoLithrankomi。

Thecountrywasnowthoroughlyenjoyable；therecentdailyshowershadfreshenedallvegetation，andtheearthwasacarpetofwildflowers，includingscarletranunculus，poppies，averyprettydwarfyellowcistusresemblingbunchesofprimroses，cyclamen，narcissus，anemones——purple，white，andapeculiarlybrightyellowvariety。

TheroutefromGallibornuwasextremelywildandpicturesque，combininghills，glens，andoccasionalshortglimpsesoftheseabetweenthegorgeswhichclefttheprecipitousrangeuponourright。Theroundedandsparklingtopsofgypsumhillswerecommonforthefirstfewmiles；

emergingfromthese，wethreadedaravine，andarrivedupontheseabeach，andcontinuedforaconsiderabledistanceuponthemarginoftheshore；theanimalsscramblingoverfallenrocksandalternatelystrugglingthroughthedeepsandandbanksofsea-weedpiledbyarecentgale。WenowentereduponthefirstpuresandstonethatIhadseen；thiswasacoffee-brown，andformedthesubstratumoftheusualsedimentarylimestonewhichcappedthesurfaceofthehill-tops。Theappearancewaspeculiar，asthecliffsofbrownsandstonewerecrustedforadepthofabouteightortenfeetbythewhiterockaboundingwithfossilshells，whilethesubstratumofhardsandwasperfectlydevoidofalltracesoforganicmatter。Theupheavalofasea-bottomwasclearlydemonstrated。Asthesandstonehaddecayed，vastfragmentsofthesurfacerockhadbrokendownwhenunderminedandhadfallentothebaseofthesteepinclines，fromtheintersticesofwhichadensegrowthofevergreensproducedanagreeableharmonyofcolouring，combiningvariousshadesofgreenwithbrowncliffsandwhitemassesofdisjointedlimestone。Thedeepblueoftheseawasabeautifuladditiontothiswildscenery，andafterthreadingourwaysometimesbetweennarrowgorges，atotherplacesalongsequesteredglenswhichexhibitedyoungcropsofcerealsandcultivatedolive-trees，weatlengtharrivedatahalting-placeupontheseashore，whereawellofexcellentwaterabouttenfeetfromthesurfacehadbeensunkuponthesea-beachwithinfiftyyardsofthewaves。

Thiswasthebestcamping-groundwehadhadinCyprus；forthefirsttimewestooduponrealturf，greenwithrecentshowers，andfirmlyrooteduponarichsandyloam。Acultivatedvalleylayafewhundredyardsbeyondus，completelywalledinbyhighhillscoveredwithwildolives，arbutus，anddwarf-cypress，andfrontedbythesea。Somefinespecimensofthebroad-headedandshadycaroub-treesgaveapark-likeappearancetothevalley，throughwhicharunningstreamenteredfromaravineamongthehills，and，windingthroughdeepbankscoveredwithmyrtlesandoleanders，expendeditselfupontheshinglybeachinthecentreofthebay。Thisshelteredcove，about300yardsacrossthechordofthearc，formedrathermorethanasemicirclebythenaturalformationofthecoast，andwasfurtherimprovedbyalongreefofhardsandstone，whichextendedfromeitherpointlikeanartificialbreakwater。

Atfirstsightthelittlebaywasatemptingrefuge，butuponcloserexaminationIobservedominousdarkpatchesintheclearwater，whichbetokeneddangerousreefs，andotherlightgreenportionsthatdenotedsandyshallows。Thecoveisusefulforthenativesmallcraft，butwouldbeunsuitabletovesselsofmorethansevenfeetdraughtofwater。Ihadobservedthatfrancolinsweremorenumeroussincewehadarriveduponthesandstoneformation，andthecockbirdswerecallinginalldirections；thelocalitywassoinvitingthatwefeltinclinedtoremainforafewdaysinsuchadelightfulspot；buttheseasonwastoofaradvancedforshooting，andIthereforeconfinedmyselftokillingonlywhatwasabsolutelynecessaryforourfood，andIinvariablyselectedthecock-birdsoffrancolins。Idonotthinkthesebirdspairlikethepartridge，butIbelievethecockispolygamous，likethepheasant，asI

generallyfoundthatseveralhenswereinhisneighbourhood。Itisabeautifulgamebird，themalepossessingastrikingplumageofdeepblackandrichbrown，withadarkringroundtheneck。Itisquiteadifferentvarietytothemottle-breastedspeciesthatIhavemetwithinMauritius，Ceylon，andthedouble-spurfrancolinthatIhaveshotinAfrica。Itisconsiderablylargerthanthecommonpartridge，butnotquitesoheavyasthered-leggedbirdsofCyprus，althoughwhenflyingitappearssuperior。Thefleshiswhiteandexceedinglydelicate，anditistoberegrettedthatsovaluableagamebirdisnotintroducedintoEngland。Igenerallyfoundthefrancolininthelowscrub，althoughI

haveoftenshotiteitherinthecultivatedfieldsorinthewildpricklylowplantsupontheopengroundwhichhavebeenmisnamedheather。Thehabitsofthisbirdhavenothingincommonwiththoseofthered-leggedpartridge，asitisneverfounduponthebarerockyhill-sides，whicharethegeneralresortofthelatterannoyingspecies，andalthoughthescrubbushmaycontainboth，thereisamarkeddifferenceintheircharacter。Thered-legisadeterminedrunner，andthereforeabadgamebirdfortheshooter，asitwillrunaheadwhenfirstdisturbedandrisefarbeyondshotrange，insteadofsquattinglikethegreypartridgeandpermittingasportingshot。Thefrancolinisneverfounduponthebarehill-sides，neitherisitarunnerintheopen，althoughitwilloccasionallytroublethedogsinthebushbyrefusingtoriseuntiltheyhavefolloweditforsomedistance，preciselyaspheasantswillrunincovertuntilhaltedbythe“stops“orbyanet。Iamnotsureofthepowerofresistancetocoldpossessedbythefrancolins，astheyareseldommetwithuponthehighermountainsinCyprus，butaregenerallyfoundupontheinferioraltitudesandlowgrounds：stillthehazel-huhnofAustriaisaspeciesoffrancolinwhichresiststheintensecoldofacentral-Europeanwinter。

OnlyonemarchremainedtotheextremeeasternlimitofCyprus，CapeSt。

Andrea，distantfourteenmiles。Thecountrywasexactlysimilartothatwhichwehadrecentlypassedthrough，andalthoughalike，itcouldhardlybecalledmonotonous，astheeyewasneverfatigued。Thefewinhabitantswerepoortothelastdegree；thedwellingsweremerehovels。Wepasseddeepholesintheground，thesidesofwhichwerebakedbyfire，soastoresembleearthenjarsabouttenfeetdeepandsevenindiameter，withasmallaperture；theseweresubterraneangranaries，thesuresignofinsecuritybeforetheBritishoccupation。

Theflat-toppedhovelshadtheusualroofsofclayandchoppedstraw，andprojectedtwoorthreefeetaseavesbeyondthewalls，whichwereofstoneandmud，exhibitingthecrudestexamplesofmasonry。Theprojectingeaveswerecuriouslyarrangedbyhooksofcypress，likesingle-flukedanchorslaidhorizontally，whichretainedbeams，uponwhichthemudandstrawwerelaid；theheavyweightoftheearthenroofuponthelongshanksoftheseanchorspreventedtheeavesfromoverbalancing。Enormousheapsofmanureandfilthweredepositedoppositetheentranceofeachdwelling，andintheChristianvillagesthemostabsurdpigsraninandoutofthehovels，orsleptbythefrontdoor，asthoughtheyweretheactualproprietors。Thesecreatureswereallheadsandlegs，andcloselyresembledtheblackandwhiterepresentativeoftheracewellknowntoeverychildintheNoah"sArk。

Itwasratherdishearteningtoapproachtheextremityoftheisland，anduponenteringalongnarrowvalleyourguideassuredusthatalthoughnoapparentexitexisted，weshouldascendaprecipitouspathandimmediatelyseethepointofCapeSt。Andrea。Thevalleynarrowedtoapointwithoutanyvisiblepath。Afewlowhillscoveredwithbushwerebackedbycliff-likeheightsofabout300feetalsoclothedbyevergreens。Uponourright，justbelowthesteepascent，weresand-dunesandthesea。Wenowobservedthenarrowstreakofwhiteuponthehillside，amidstthegreenwhichmarkedthepath。Wehadleftthebrownsandstone，andonceagainwereuponthewhitecalcareousrock。Ouranimalscouldbarelyascendthesteepincline，andseveraltimeswehaltedthemtorest；atlengthwereachedthesummit，theflatrockytableabovethevalley。Theviewwasindeedlovely；welookeddownuponthewhitemonasteryofCapeSt。Andrea，twomilesdistant，anduponthethineasternpointofCyprusaboutthesamedistancebeyond，stretchinglikeafingerfromahandintothebluesea：theelevationfromthehighpointuponwhichwestoodgraduallyincliningdownwardstotheendofallthings。Ashortdistancefromthecapeweretwoorthreesmallrockyislandsandreefsprotrudingfromthesea，asthoughtheforceoftheoriginalupheavalhadoriginatedfromthewest，andhadexpendeditselfattheextremeeast，wheretheheightsabovethesea-levelhadgraduallydiminisheduntilthecontinuationbecamedisjointed，andtheislandterminatedinasharppoint，brokenintodislocatedvertebraewhichformedisletsandreefs，thelasthardlyappearingabovethewaves。ThisendedCyprusontheeast。TheloftycoastofAsiaMinorwasdistinctlyvisible。

CHAPTERVI。

CAPEST。ANDREA。

ThepromontoryofCapeSt。Andreaatthebroadestportionisaboutfivemiles，andfromthisbasetotheextremeendisnearlythesamedistance。Thewholesurfaceisrocky，buttheintersticescontainarichsoil，andatonetimeitwascoveredwithvaluabletimber。Thereisnoportionoftheislandthatpresentsamoredeplorablepictureofwholesaledestructionofforests，aseverytreehasbeenruthlesslycutdown，andthepresentsurfaceisadensemassofshrubsandyoungcypress，whichifsparedforfifteenyearswillagainrestorethisextremityofCyprustoprosperity。Iexaminedtheentirepromontory，andascendedtherockyheights，about500feetabovetheseauponthenorthside。ItwaswithextremedifficultythatIcouldbreakmywaythroughthedenseunderwood，whichwasaboutsevenoreightfeethigh，asitwasinmanyplacesmorethanknee-deepinrefuseboughs，whichhadbeenloppedandabandonedwhenthelargertreeshadbeenfelled。Thelargeststumpsofthesedepartedstemswerenotmorethanfromninetotwelveinchesindiameter：thesewerethedwarf-cypress，whichwouldseldomattainagreaterheightthantwentyfeetatmaturity。

Finecaroubshadsharedthefateofallothers，andmanyoftheoldstumpsprovedthelargesizeofthisvaluabletree，which，asbothfruit-producingandshade-giving，shouldbesacredintheusuallyparchedislandofCyprus。Atanelevationofabout350feetabovetheseaaspringofwaterissuesfromthegroundandnourishesasmallvalleyofredsoil，whichslopesdownwardstowardsthemonastery，twomilesdistant。Theshrubswerevividlygreen，andformedsodenseacrestthatseveralpartridgeswhichIshotremainedstickinginthebushesastheyfell。Ineversawsuchmyrtlesasthosewhichoccupiedtheravines，throughwhichitwasquiteimpossibletoforceaway。TheprincipalyoungtreeswerePinusmaritima，dwarf-cypress，mastic，caroub，arbutus，myrtle，andwildolive。ThenameCupressushorizontalishasbeengiventothedwarf-cypress，butinmyopinionitisnotdescriptiveofthetree：acypressofthisspecies，ifuninjured，willgrowperfectlystraightinthecentralstemforaheightoftwentyfeetwithoutspreadinghorizontally。Itisprobablethatthemisnomerhasbeenbestowedinignoranceofthefactthatanuninjuredtreeisseldommetwith，andthatnearlyeverycypresshasbeenmutilatedforthesakeofthestrongtoughleader，which，withonebranchattached，willformtheone-flukedanchorrequiredfortheroofsofnativedwellingsalreadydescribed。Intheabsenceofitsleaderthetreeextendslaterally，andbecomesaCupressushorizontalis。Thewoodofthisspeciesisextremelydenseandhard，andwhencutitemitsaresinousandaromaticscent；itisofanoilynature，andextremelyinflammable。Thegrainissoclosethat，whendry，itsomewhatresembleslignumvitae(thoughoflightercolour)，andwouldformavaluablematerialfortheturner。Therearetwovarietiesofcypressinthisisland；thesecondhasbeenerroneouslycalleda“cedar“bysometravellers，andbyothers“juniper。“Thistreeisgenerallymetwith，ataltitudesvaryingfromthreetosixthousandfeet，upontheTroodosrange；itseldomexceedsaheightofthirtyfeet，butattainsagirthofsixorevenseven。Thewoodisbynomeanshard，andpossessesapowerfulfragrance，closelyresemblingthatofcedar(orofcedarandsandal-woodcombined)，whichmayhavegivenrisetotheerrornamed。Itsplitswithfacility，andthepeculiargrainandbrownish-redcolour，combinedwiththearoma，wouldrenderitvaluableforthecabinet-makerinconstructingtheinsidesofdrawers，asinsectsarebelievedtodislikethesmell。ThefoliageofthisspeciesexactlyresemblesthatoftheCupressushorizontalis。Thecedarmaypossiblyhaveexistedataformerperiodandhavebeendestroyed，butIshouldbeinclinedtodoubtthetheory，asitwouldsurelyhavebeensucceededbyayoungergrowthfromthecones，thatmusthaverootedinthegroundlikeallthoseconiferswhichstillwouldflourishweretheysparedbytheCypriote"saxe。ThenativenameforthecypressisKypreses，whichcloselyresemblesthenameoftheislandaccordingtotheirpronunciationKypris。Thechittim-woodofScripture，whichwassomuchesteemed，mayhavebeenthehighlyaromaticcypresstowhichIhavealluded。

Afterarambleofmanyhoursdowntothemonasteryupontherockyshore，alongthepoint，andthenreturningthroughthewoodsoverthehighestportionsofthepromontory，Ireachedourcamp，whichcommandedaviewoftheentiresoutherncoastwithitsinnumerablerockycovesfarbeyondtelescopicdistance。FromthiselevationIcoulddistinguishwithmyglassthewreckofthestrandedsteamerinthebayatVolokalida。Wewerecampedonthevergeoftheheightthatwehadascendedbytheprecipitouspathfromthelowervalley。Asthecountrywasamassofdryfire-woodwecollectedalargequantity，andpiledtwoheaps，oneforthecamel-ownersandtheservants，andanotherbeforethedoorofourowntenttomakeacheerfulblazeatnight，whichisaluxuryofthebivouacseldomtobeenjoyedinotherportionsofthisisland。Whilewewerethusengagedanarrivaltookplace，andseveralpeoplesuddenlyappeareduponthesummitofthepasswithinafewyardsofourtent。Anoldwomanformedoneoftheparty，andahandsomebutratherdirty-lookingpriestledthewayonaremarkablypowerfulmule。Uponseeingusheverycourteouslydismounted，andIatonceinvitedhimtothetent。Itappearedthatthiswastheactualheadofthemonasteryandthelordofallthepromontorywhowasthusunexpectedlyintroduced。

Cigarettes，coffee，andalittlegoodcognacquicklycheeredthegoodanddustypriest(whohadtravelledthatdayfromsomeplacebeyondRizo-Carpas)，andweestablishedamutualconfidencethatinducedhimtogivemealltheinformationofhisneighbourhood。

Ihadobservedhundredsofcattle，goats，sheep，andmanyhorses，donkeys，&c。，wanderingabouttheshrub-coveredsurfaceduringmywalk，andIwasnowinformedthatalltheseanimalswerethepropertyofthemonastery。ThesetamecreaturesaretheobjectsdescribedinsomebooksuponCyprusas“thewildoxenandhorsesoftheCarpasdistrict，thedescendantsoforiginaldomesticanimals“！ThemonasteryofCapeSt。

Andreaformsanexceptiontoallothersinbeingperfectlyindependent，andbeyondallcontrolofbishops。Thiswildcountry，farfromallroads，andformingthestorm-washedextremelimitoftheisland，wasconsideratelyoutofthewayofnews，andthemonkwasabsolutelyignorantofeverythingthatwastakingplaceinthegreatouterworld。

Hehadheardthatsuchmischievousthingsasnewspapersexisted，buthehadneverseenone，neitherhadthatubiquitousanimalthenewspaper-correspondenteverbeenmetwithintheevergreenjunglesofCapeSt。Andrea。Hismonasterywashisworld，andthepoorinhabitantswhooccupiedthefewmiserablehutswithinsightofhischurchwerehisvassals。Althoughthebellofthemonasterytolledandtinkledattherequiredhours，heinformedmethat“nobodyeverattendedtheservice，asthepeoplewerealwaysengagedinlookingaftertheiranimals。“

Duringtheconversationasuddenideaappearedtohaveflasheduponhim，andstartingfromhisseat，hewentquicklytohismule，andmakingadiveintothelargeandwell-filledsaddle-bags，heextractedanenormouswine-bottlethatcontainedaboutagallon；thishetriumphantlybroughttousandinsisteduponouracceptance。Itwasinvainthatwedeclinedtheoffering；thepriestwasobdurate，andheplacedthebottleagainsttheentranceofthetent，which，ifanyoneshouldhaveunexpectedlyarrived，wouldhavepresentedamostconvivialappearance。

Uponquestioningthegoodmonkrespectingthedestructionofforestsuponhisdomain，heinformedmethat“duringtheTurkishadministrationhehadbeenannuallypillagedbyhundredsofvesselswhicharrivedfromtheneighbouringcoastsofAsiaMinorandofEgyptfortheexpresspurposeofcuttingtimbertobesoldbyweightasfire-woodattheirvariousports。Hehadprotestedinvain，therewerenopolice，noranymeansofresistanceatCapeSt。Andrea，thereforethenumerouscrewshaddefiedhim；andsmallpresentsfromtheownersofthevesselstothePachaatheadquartersweresufficienttoensureimmunity。“Iaskedhim“whytheywastedsomuchexcellentfire-wood，andlefttheboughstohamperthesurface？”Hereplied，“thatasthewoodwassoldbyweight，thedealerspreferredtocutthethickstems，astheypackedcloselyonboardthevessels，and，beinggreen，theyweighedheavy；thereforetheyrejectedthesmallerwoodandleftittorotupontheground。“Hedeclared“thatonseveraloccasionsthecrewshadquarrelled，andthatfrompurespitetheyhadsetfiretothethickmassofdriedboughsandlighterwoodwhichhadspreadoverthesurface，anddestroyedimmensenumbersofyoungtrees。“Ihadobservedthatlargetractshadbeenburntduringtheprecedingyear。HewasdelightedattheEnglishoccupation，ashispropertywouldnowbeprotected，andinafewyearsthetreeswouldattainaconsiderablesize。

Havingpassedaninterestingafternoonwiththenewecclesiasticalacquaintance，andtasted，immediatelyafterhisdeparture，thecontentsofhisenormousbottle(whichwasasinstantlypresented，asa“greattreat，“totheservants)，welightedourbigbonfires，andenjoyedtheblazelikechildren，althoughtheshowersofredsparksthreatenedthedestructionofthetentintheabsenceofCaptainShawandtheLondonFireBrigade。Afterthistemporaryexcitementinthisutter-lack-of-incident-and-everyday-monotonous-island，thefiresgraduallysubsided，andweallwenttosleep。ThereisnonecessityinCyprusforsentriesornight-watchers，thepeoplearepainfullygood，andyouareagreatdealtoosecurewhentravelling。Asto“revolvers！”