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THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE
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第12章

Wehavenowonlytomentiontheturkey-buzzard(Vulturaura),andtheGallinazo。Theformerisfoundwhereverthecountryismoderatelydamp,fromCapeHorntoNorthAmerica。DifferentlyfromthePolyborusBrasiliensisandChimango,ithasfounditswaytotheFalklandIslands。Theturkey-buzzardisasolitarybird,oratmostgoesinpairs。Itmayatonceberecognisedfromalongdistance,byitslofty,soaring,andmostelegantflight。ltiswellknowntobeatruecarrion-feeder。OnthewestcoastofPatagonia,amongthethickly-woodedisletsandbrokenland,itlivesexclusivelyonwhattheseathrowsup,andonthecarcassesofdeadseals。Wherevertheseanimalsarecongregatedontherocks,therethevulturesmaybeseen。TheGallinazo(Cathartesatratus)hasadifferentrangefromthelastspecies,asitneveroccurssouthwardoflat。41degs。Azarastatesthatthereexistsatraditionthatthesebirds,atthetimeoftheconquest,werenotfoundnearMonteVideo,butthattheysubsequentlyfollowedtheinhabitantsfrommorenortherndistricts。AtthepresentdaytheyarenumerousinthevalleyoftheColorado,whichisthreehundredmilesduesouthofMonteVideo。

ItseemsprobablethatthisadditionalmigrationhashappenedsincethetimeofAzara。TheGallinazogenerallyprefersahumidclimate,orrathertheneighbourhoodoffreshwater;henceitisextremelyabundantinBrazilandLaPlata,whileitisneverfoundonthedesertandaridplainsofNorthernPatagonia,exceptingnearsomestream。ThesebirdsfrequentthewholePampastothefootoftheCordillera,butIneversaworheardofoneinChile;inPerutheyarepreservedasscavengers。Thesevulturescertainlymaybecalledgregarious,fortheyseemtohavepleasureinsociety,andarenotsolelybroughttogetherbytheattractionofacommonprey。

Onafinedayaflockmayoftenbeobservedatagreatheight,eachbirdwheelingroundandroundwithoutclosingitswings,inthemostgracefulevolutions。Thisisclearlyperformedforthemerepleasureoftheexercise,orperhapsisconnectedwiththeirmatrimonialalliances。

Ihavenowmentionedallthecarrion-feeders,exceptingthecondor,anaccountofwhichwillbemoreappropriatelyintroducedwhenwevisitacountrymorecongenialtoitshabitsthantheplainsofLaPlata。

Inabroadbandofsand-hillockswhichseparatetheLagunadelPotrerofromtheshoresofthePlata,atthedistanceofafewmilesfromMaldonado,Ifoundagroupofthosevitrified,siliceoustubes,whichareformedbylightningenteringloosesand。ThesetubesresembleineveryparticularthosefromDrigginCumberland,describedintheGeologicalTransactions。[10]Thesand-hillocksofMaldonadonotbeingprotectedbyvegetation,areconstantlychangingtheirposition。Fromthiscausethetubesprojectedabovethesurface,andnumerousfragmentslyingnear,showedthattheyhadformerlybeenburiedtoagreaterdepth。Foursetsenteredthesandperpendicularly:byworkingwithmyhandsItracedoneofthemtwofeetdeep;andsomefragmentswhichevidentlyhadbelongedtothesametube,whenaddedtotheotherpart,measuredfivefeetthreeinches。Thediameterofthewholetubewasnearlyequal,andthereforewemustsupposethatoriginallyitextendedtoamuchgreaterdepth。Thesedimensionsarehoweversmall,comparedtothoseofthetubesfromDrigg,oneofwhichwastracedtoadepthofnotlessthanthirtyfeet。

Theinternalsurfaceiscompletelyvitrified,glossy,andsmooth。A

smallfragmentexaminedunderthemicroscopeappeared,fromthenumberofminuteentangledairorperhapssteambubbles,likeanassayfusedbeforetheblowpipe。Thesandisentirely,oringreaterpart,siliceous;butsomepointsareofablackcolour,andfromtheirglossysurfacepossessametalliclustre。Thethicknessofthewallofthetubevariesfromathirtiethtoatwentiethofaninch,andoccasionallyevenequalsatenth。

Ontheoutsidethegrainsofsandarerounded,andhaveaslightlyglazedappearance:Icouldnotdistinguishanysignsofcrystallization。InasimilarmannertothatdescribedintheGeologicalTransactions,thetubesaregenerallycompressed,andhavedeeplongitudinalfurrows,soascloselytoresembleashrivelledvegetablestalk,orthebarkoftheelmorcorktree。Theircircumferenceisabouttwoinches,butinsomefragments,whicharecylindricalandwithoutanyfurrows,itisasmuchasfourinches。

Thecompressionfromthesurroundingloosesand,actingwhilethetubewasstillsoftenedfromtheeffectsoftheintenseheat,hasevidentlycausedthecreasesorfurrows。Judgingfromtheuncompressedfragments,themeasureorboreofthelightning(ifsuchatermmaybeused)musthavebeenaboutoneinchandaquarter。AtParis,M。HachetteandM。Beudant[11]succeededinmakingtubes,inmostrespectssimilartothesefulgurites,bypassingverystrongshocksofgalvanismthroughfinely-powderedglass:whensaltwasadded,soastoincreaseitsfusibility,thetubeswerelargerineverydimension,Theyfailedbothwithpowderedfelsparandquartz。Onetube,formedwithpoundedglass,wasverynearlyaninchlong,namely。982,andhadaninternaldiameterof。019ofaninch。WhenwehearthatthestrongestbatteryinPariswasused,andthatitspoweronasubstanceofsucheasyfusibilityasglasswastoformtubessodiminutive,wemustfeelgreatlyastonishedattheforceofashockoflightning,which,strikingthesandinseveralplaces,hasformedcylinders,inoneinstanceofatleastthirtyfeetlong,andhavinganinternalbore,wherenotcompressed,offullaninchandahalf;

andthisinamaterialsoextraordinarilyrefractoryasquartz!

Thetubes,asIhavealreadyremarked,enterthesandnearlyinaverticaldirection。One,however,whichwaslessregularthantheothers,deviatedfromarightline,atthemostconsiderablebend,totheamountofthirty-threedegrees。Fromthissametube,twosmallbranches,aboutafootapart,weresentoff;onepointeddownwards,andtheotherupwards。Thislattercaseisremarkable,astheelectricfluidmusthaveturnedbackattheacuteangleof26degs。,tothelineofitsmaincourse。BesidesthefourtubeswhichIfoundvertical,andtracedbeneaththesurface,therewereseveralothergroupsoffragments,theoriginalsitesofwhichwithoutdoubtwerenear。Alloccurredinalevelareaofshiftingsand,sixtyyardsbytwenty,situatedamongsomehighsand-hillocks,andatthedistanceofabouthalfamilefromachainofhillsfourorfivehundredfeetinheight。Themostremarkablecircumstance,asitappearstome,inthiscaseaswellasinthatofDrigg,andinonedescribedbyM。RibbentropinGermany,isthenumberoftubesfoundwithinsuchlimitedspaces。AtDrigg,withinanareaoffifteenyards,threewereobserved,andthesamenumberoccurredinGermany。InthecasewhichIhavedescribed,certainlymorethanfourexistedwithinthespaceofthesixtybytwentyyards。Asitdoesnotappearprobablethatthetubesareproducedbysuccessivedistinctshocks,wemustbelievethatthelightning,shortlybeforeenteringtheground,dividesitselfintoseparatebranches。

TheneighbourhoodoftheRioPlataseemspeculiarlysubjecttoelectricphenomena。Intheyear1793,[12]oneofthemostdestructivethunderstormsperhapsonrecordhappenedatBuenosAyres:thirty-sevenplaceswithinthecitywerestruckbylightning,andnineteenpeoplekilled。

Fromfactsstatedinseveralbooksoftravels,Iaminclinedtosuspectthatthunderstormsareverycommonnearthemouthsofgreatrivers。Isitnotpossiblethatthemixtureoflargebodiesoffreshandsaltwatermaydisturbtheelectricalequilibrium?EvenduringouroccasionalvisitstothispartofSouthAmerica,weheardofaship,twochurches,andahousehavingbeenstruck。BoththechurchandthehouseIsawshortlyafterwards:

thehousebelongedtoMr。Hood,theconsul-generalatMonteVideo。Someoftheeffectswerecurious:thepaper,fornearlyafootoneachsideofthelinewherethebell-wireshadrun,wasblackened。Themetalhadbeenfused,andalthoughtheroomwasaboutfifteenfeethigh,theglobules,droppingonthechairsandfurniture,haddrilledinthemachainofminuteholes。Apartofthewallwasshattered,asifbygunpowder,andthefragmentshadbeenblownoffwithforcesufficienttodentthewallontheoppositesideoftheroom。Theframeofalooking-glasswasblackened,andthegildingmusthavebeenvolatilized,forasmelling-bottle,whichstoodonthechimney-piece,wascoatedwithbrightmetallicparticles,whichadheredasfirmlyasiftheyhadbeenenamelled。[1]Hearne’sJourney,p。383。

[2]Maclaren,art。“America。”Encyclop。Brittann。

[3]Azarasays,“Jecroisquelaquantiteannuelledespluiesest,danstoutescescontrees,plusconsiderablequ’enEspagne。”

[4]InSouthAmericaIcollectedaltogethertwenty-sevenspeciesofmice,andthirteenmoreareknownfromtheworksofAzaraandotherauthors。ThosecollectedbymyselfhavebeennamedanddescribedbyMr。WaterhouseatthemeetingsoftheZoologicalSociety。ImustbeallowedtotakethisopportunityofreturningmycordialthankstoMr。

Waterhouse,andtotheothergentlemanattachedtothatSociety,fortheirkindandmostliberalassistanceonalloccasions。

[5]InthestomachandduodenumofacapybarawhichIopenedIfoundaverylargequantityofathinyellowishfluid,inwhichscarcelyafibrecouldbedistinguished。Mr。Oweninformsmethatapartoftheoesophagusissoconstructedthatnothingmuchlargerthanacrowquillcanbepasseddown。Certainlythebroadteethandstrongjawsofthisanimalarewellfittedtogrindintopulptheaquaticplantsonwhichitfeeds。

AttheR。Negro,inNorthernPatagonia,thereisananimalofthesamehabits,andprobablyacloselyalliedspecies,butwhichIneversaw。ItsnoiseisdifferentfromthatoftheMaldonadokind;itisrepeatedonlytwiceinsteadofthreeorfourtimes,andismoredistinctandsonorous;whenheardfromadistanceitsocloselyresemblesthesoundmadeincuttingdownasmalltreewithanaxe,thatIhavesometimesremainedindoubtconcerningit。

Geolog。Transact。vol。ii。p。528。InthePhilosoph。Transact。(1790,p。294)Dr。Priestlyhasdescribedsomeimperfectsiliceoustubesandameltedpebbleofquartz,foundindiggingintotheground,underatree,whereamanhadbeenkilledbylightning。

[Azara’sVoyage,vol。i。p。36。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter4TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter4-RioNegrotoBahiaBlancaJULY24th,1833——TheBeaglesailedfromMaldonado,andonAugustthe3rdshearrivedoffthemouthoftheRioNegro。ThisistheprincipalriveronthewholelineofcoastbetweentheStraitofMagellanandthePlata。ItenterstheseaaboutthreehundredmilessouthoftheestuaryofthePlata。Aboutfiftyyearsago,undertheoldSpanishgovernment,asmallcolonywasestablishedhere;anditisstillthemostsouthernposition(lat。41degs。)onthiseasterncoastofAmericainhabitedbycivilizedman。

Thecountrynearthemouthoftheriveriswretchedintheextreme:

onthesouthsidealonglineofperpendicularcliffscommences,whichexposesasectionofthegeologicalnatureofthecountry。Thestrataareofsandstone,andonelayerwasremarkablefrombeingcomposedofafirmly-

cementedconglomerateofpumicepebbles,whichmusthavetravelledmorethanfourhundredmiles,fromtheAndes。Thesurfaceiseverywherecoveredupbyathickbedofgravel,whichextendsfarandwideovertheopenplain。

Waterisextremelyscarce,and,wherefound,isalmostinvariablybrackish。

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