第14章

Itwascoveredbylowsucculentplants，ofthesamekindwiththosegrowingonthesea-shore。TheColorado，atthepasswherewecrossedit，isonlyaboutsixtyyardswide；generallyitmustbenearlydoublethatwidth。

Itscourseisverytortuous，beingmarkedbywillow-treesandbedsofreeds：

inadirectlinethedistancetothemouthoftheriverissaidtobenineleagues，butbywatertwenty-five。Weweredelayedcrossinginthecanoebysomeimmensetroopsofmares，whichwereswimmingtheriverinordertofollowadivisionoftroopsintotheinterior。AmoreludicrousspectacleIneverbeheldthanthehundredsandhundredsofheads，alldirectedoneway，withpointedearsanddistendedsnortingnostrils，appearingjustabovethewaterlikeagreatshoalofsomeamphibiousanimal。Mare’sfleshistheonlyfoodwhichthesoldiershavewhenonanexpedition。Thisgivesthemagreatfacilityofmovement；forthedistancetowhichhorsescanbedrivenovertheseplainsisquitesurprising：Ihavebeenassuredthatanunloadedhorsecantravelahundredmilesadayformanydayssuccessively。

TheencampmentofGeneralRosaswasclosetotheriver。Itconsistedofasquareformedbywaggons，artillery，strawhuts，etc。Thesoldierswerenearlyallcavalry；andIshouldthinksuchavillainous，banditti-likearmywasneverbeforecollectedtogether。Thegreaternumberofmenwereofamixedbreed，betweenNegro，Indian，andSpaniard。Iknownotthereason，butmenofsuchoriginseldomhaveagoodexpressionofcountenance。I

calledontheSecretarytoshowmypassport。Hebegantocross-questionmeinthemostdignifiedandmysteriousmanner。BygoodluckIhadaletterofrecommendationfromthegovernmentofBuenosAyres[5]tothecommandantofPatagones。ThiswastakentoGeneralRosas，whosentmeaveryobligingmessage；andtheSecretaryreturnedallsmilesandgraciousness。

Wetookupourresidenceinthe_rancho_，orhovel，ofacuriousoldSpaniard，whohadservedwithNapoleonintheexpeditionagainstRussia。

WestayedtwodaysattheColorado；Ihadlittletodo，forthesurroundingcountrywasaswamp，whichinsummer(December)，whenthesnowmeltsontheCordillera，isover-flowedbytheriver。MychiefamusementwaswatchingtheIndianfamiliesastheycametobuylittlearticlesattheranchowherewestayed。ItwassupposedthatGeneralRosashadaboutsixhundredIndianallies。Themenwereatall，finerace，yetitwasafterwardseasytoseeintheFuegiansavagethesamecountenancerenderedhideousbycold，wantoffood，andlesscivilization。Someauthors，indefiningtheprimaryracesofmankind，haveseparatedtheseIndiansintotwoclasses；butthisiscertainlyincorrect。Amongtheyoungwomenorchinas，somedeservetobecalledevenbeautiful。Theirhairwascoarse，butbrightandblack；andtheyworeitintwoplaitshangingdowntothewaist。Theyhadahighcolour，andeyesthatglistenedwithbrilliancy；theirlegs，feet，andarmsweresmallandelegantlyformed；theirankles，andsometimestheirwrists，wereornamentedbybroadbraceletsofbluebeads。Nothingcouldbemoreinterestingthansomeofthefamilygroups。Amotherwithoneortwodaughterswouldoftencometoourrancho，mountedonthesamehorse。Theyridelikemen，butwiththeirkneestuckedupmuchhigher。Thishabit，perhaps，arisesfromtheirbeingaccustomed，whentravelling，toridetheloadedhorses。

Thedutyofthewomenistoloadandunloadthehorses；tomakethetentsforthenight；inshorttobe，likethewivesofallsavages，usefulslaves。

Themenfight，hunt，takecareofthehorses，andmaketheridinggear。

Oneoftheirchiefindooroccupationsistoknocktwostonestogethertilltheybecomeround，inordertomakethebolas。WiththisimportantweapontheIndiancatcheshisgame，andalsohishorse，whichroamsfreeovertheplain。Infighting，hisfirstattemptistothrowdownthehorseofhisadversarywiththebolas，andwhenentangledbythefalltokillhimwiththechuzo。Iftheballsonlycatchtheneckorbodyofananimal，theyareoftencarriedawayandlost。Asthemakingthestonesroundisthelabouroftwodays，themanufactureoftheballsisaverycommonemployment。

Severalofthemenandwomenhadtheirfacespaintedred，butIneversawthehorizontalbandswhicharesocommonamongtheFuegians。Theirchiefprideconsistsinhavingeverythingmadeofsilver；Ihaveseenacaciquewithhisspurs，stirrups，handleofhisknife，andbridlemadeofthismetal：thehead-stallandreinsbeingofwire，werenotthickerthanwhipcord；

andtoseeafierysteedwheelingaboutunderthecommandofsolightachain，gavetothehorsemanshiparemarkablecharacterofelegance。

GeneralRosasintimatedawishtoseeme；acircumstancewhichIwasafterwardsverygladof。Heisamanofanextraordinarycharacter，andhasamostpredominantinfluenceinthecountry，whichitseemshewillusetoitsprosperityandadvancement。[6]Heissaidtobetheownerofseventy-foursquareleaguesofland，andtohaveaboutthreehundredthousandheadofcattle。Hisestatesareadmirablymanaged，andarefarmoreproductiveofcornthanthoseofothers。Hefirstgainedhiscelebritybyhislawsforhisownestancias，andbydiscipliningseveralhundredmen，soastoresistwithsuccesstheattacksoftheIndians。Therearemanystoriescurrentabouttherigidmannerinwhichhislawswereenforced。Oneofthesewas，thatnoman，onpenaltyofbeingputintothestocks，shouldcarryhisknifeonaSunday：thisbeingtheprincipaldayforgamblinganddrinking，manyquarrelsarose，whichfromthegeneralmanneroffightingwiththeknifeoftenprovedfatal。OneSundaytheGovernorcameingreatformtopaytheestanciaavisit，andGeneralRosas，inhishurry，walkedouttoreceivehimwithhisknife，asusual，stuckinhisbelt。Thestewardtouchedhisarm，andremindedhimofthelaw；uponwhichturningtotheGovernor，hesaidhewasextremelysorry，butthathemustgointothestocks，andthattillletout，hepossessednopowereveninhisownhouse。Afteralittletimethestewardwaspersuadedtoopenthestocks，andtolethimout，butnosoonerwasthisdone，thanheturnedtothestewardandsaid，“Younowhavebrokenthelaws，soyoumusttakemyplaceinthestocks。”SuchactionsasthesedelightedtheGauchos，whoallpossesshighnotionsoftheirownequalityanddignity。

GeneralRosasisalsoaperfecthorseman——anaccomplishmentofnosmallconsequenceInacountrywhereanassembledarmyelecteditsgeneralbythefollowingtrial：Atroopofunbrokenhorsesbeingdrivenintoacorral，wereletoutthroughagateway，abovewhichwasacross-bar：itwasagreedwhoevershoulddropfromthebarononeofthesewildanimals，asitrushedout，andshouldbeable，withoutsaddleorbridle，notonlytorideit，butalsotobringitbacktothedoorofthecorral，shouldbetheirgeneral。Thepersonwhosucceededwasaccordinglyelected；anddoubtlessmadeafitgeneralforsuchanarmy。ThisextraordinaryfeathasalsobeenperformedbyRosas。

Bythesemeans，andbyconformingtothedressandhabitsoftheGauchos，hehasobtainedanunboundedpopularityinthecountry，andinconsequenceadespoticpower。IwasassuredbyanEnglishmerchant，thatamanwhohadmurderedanother，whenarrestedandquestionedconcerninghismotive，answered，“HespokedisrespectfullyofGeneralRosas，soIkilledhim。”

Attheendofaweekthemurdererwasatliberty。Thisdoubtlesswastheactofthegeneral’sparty，andnotofthegeneralhimself。

Inconversationheisenthusiastic，sensible，andverygrave。Hisgravityiscarriedtoahighpitch：Iheardoneofhismadbuffoons(forhekeepstwo，likethebaronsofold)relatethefollowinganecdote。“Iwantedverymuchtohearacertainpieceofmusic，soIwenttothegeneraltwoorthreetimestoaskhim；hesaidtome，’Goaboutyourbusiness，forIamengaged。’Iwentasecondtime；hesaid，’IfyoucomeagainIwillpunishyou。’AthirdtimeIasked，andhelaughed。Irushedoutofthetent，butitwastoolate——heorderedtwosoldierstocatchandstakeme。Ibeggedbyallthesaintsinheavenhewouldletmeoff；butitwouldnotdo，——

whenthegenerallaughshesparesneithermadmannorsound。”Thepoorflightygentlemanlookedquitedolorous，attheveryrecollectionofthestaking。Thisisaveryseverepunishment；fourpostsaredrivenintotheground，andthemanisextendedbyhisarmsandlegshorizontally，andtherelefttostretchforseveralhours。Theideaisevidentlytakenfromtheusualmethodofdryinghides。Myinterviewpassedaway，withoutasmile，andIobtainedapassportandorderforthegovernmentpost-horses，andthishegavemeinthemostobligingandreadymanner。

InthemorningwestartedforBahiaBlanca，whichwereachedintwodays。Leavingtheregularencampment，wepassedbythetoldosoftheIndians。

Theseareroundlikeovens，andcoveredwithhides；bythemouthofeach，ataperingchuzowasstuckintheground。Thetoldosweredividedintoseparategroups，whichbelongtothedifferentcaciques’tribes，andthegroupswereagaindividedintosmallerones，accordingtotherelationshipoftheowners。ForseveralmileswetravelledalongthevalleyoftheColorado。

Thealluvialplainsonthesideappearedfertile，anditissupposedthattheyarewelladaptedtothegrowthofcorn。Turningnorthwardfromtheriver，wesoonenteredonacountry，differingfromtheplainssouthoftheriver。Thelandstillcontinueddryandsterile：butitsupportedmanydifferentkindsofplants，andthegrass，thoughbrownandwithered，wasmoreabundant，asthethornybusheswerelessso。Theselatterinashortspaceentirelydisappeared，andtheplainswereleftwithoutathickettocovertheirnakedness。Thischangeinthevegetationmarksthecommencementofthegrandcalcareoargillaceousdeposit，whichformsthewideextentofthePampas，andcoversthegraniticrocksofBandaOriental。FromtheStraitofMagellantotheColorado，adistanceofabouteighthundredmiles，thefaceofthecountryiseverywherecomposedofshingle：thepebblesarechieflyofporphyry，andprobablyowetheirorigintotherocksoftheCordillera。NorthoftheColoradothisbedthinsout，andthepebblesbecomeexceedinglysmall，andherethecharacteristicvegetationofPatagoniaceases。

Havingriddenabouttwenty-fivemiles，wecametoabroadbeltofsand-dunes，whichstretches，asfarastheeyecanreach，totheeastandwest。Thesand-hillocksrestingontheclay，allowsmallpoolsofwatertocollect，andthusaffordinthisdrycountryaninvaluablesupplyoffreshwater。

Thegreatadvantagearisingfromdepressionsandelevationsofthesoil，isnotoftenbroughthometothemind。ThetwomiserablespringsinthelongpassagebetweentheRioNegroandColoradowerecausedbytriflinginequalitiesintheplain，withoutthemnotadropofwaterwouldhavebeenfound。Thebeltofsand-dunesisabouteightmileswide；atsomeformerperiod，itprobablyformedthemarginofagrandestuary，wheretheColoradonowflows。Inthisdistrict，whereabsoluteproofsoftherecentelevationofthelandoccur，suchspeculationscanhardlybeneglectedbyanyone，althoughmerelyconsideringthephysicalgeographyofthecountry。Havingcrossedthesandytract，wearrivedintheeveningatoneofthepost-houses；

and，asthefreshhorsesweregrazingatadistancewedeterminedtopassthenightthere。

Thehousewassituatedatthebaseofaridgebetweenoneandtwohundredfeethigh——amostremarkablefeatureinthiscountry。Thispostawascommandedbyanegrolieutenant，borninAfrica：tohiscreditbeitsaid，therewasnotaranchebetweentheColoradoandBuenosAyresinnearlysuchneatorderashis。Hehadalittleroomforstrangers，andasmallcorralforthehorses，allmadeofsticksandreeds；hehadalsodugaditchroundhishouseasadefenceincaseofbeingattacked。Thiswould，however，havebeenoflittleavail，iftheIndianshadcome；buthischiefcomfortseemedtorestinthethoughtofsellinghislifedearly。Ashorttimebefore，abodyofIndianshadtravelledpastinthenight；iftheyhadbeenawareoftheposta，ourblackfriendandhisfoursoldierswouldassuredlyhavebeenslaughtered。Ididnotanywheremeetamorecivilandobligingmanthanthisnegro；itwasthereforethemorepainfultoseethathewouldnotsitdownandeatwithus。

Inthemorningwesentforthehorsesveryearly，andstartedforanotherexhilaratinggallop。WepassedtheCabezadelBuey，anoldnamegiventotheheadofalargemarsh，whichextendsfromBahiaBlanca。Herewechangedhorses，andpassedthroughsomeleaguesofswampsandsalinemarshes。Changinghorsesforthelasttime，weagainbeganwadingthroughthemud。MyanimalfellandIwaswellsousedinblackmire——averydisagreeableaccidentwhenonedoesnotpossessachangeofclothes。Somemilesfromthefortwemetaman，whotoldusthatagreatgunhadbeenfired，whichisasignalthatIndiansarenear。Weimmediatelylefttheroad，andfollowedtheedgeofamarsh，whichwhenchasedoffersthebestmodeofescape。Weweregladtoarrivewithinthewalls，whenwefoundallthealarmwasaboutnothing，fortheIndiansturnedouttobefriendlyones，whowishedtojoinGeneralRosas。

BahiaBlancascarcelydeservesthenameofavillage。Afewhousesandthebarracksforthetroopsareenclosedbyadeepditchandfortifiedwall。Thesettlementisonlyofrecentstanding(since1828)；anditsgrowthhasbeenoneoftrouble。ThegovernmentofBuenosAyresunjustlyoccupieditbyforce，insteadoffollowingthewiseexampleoftheSpanishViceroys，whopurchasedthelandneartheoldersettlementoftheRioNegro，fromtheIndians。Hencetheneedofthefortifications；hencethefewhousesandlittlecultivatedlandwithoutthelimitsofthewalls；eventhecattlearenotsafefromtheattacksoftheIndiansbeyondtheboundariesoftheplain，onwhichthefortressstands。

ThepartoftheharbourwheretheBeagleintendedtoanchorbeingdistanttwenty-fivemiles，IobtainedfromtheCommandantaguideandhorses，totakemetoseewhethershehadarrived。Leavingtheplainofgreenturf，whichextendedalongthecourseofalittlebrook，wesoonenteredonawidelevelwasteconsistingeitherofsand，salinemarshes，orbaremud。