第1章

ItsPeople，LanguageandSceneryINTRODUCTORY

WALESisacountryinterestinginmanyrespects，anddeservingofmoreattentionthanithashithertometwith。Thoughnotveryextensive，itisoneofthemostpicturesquecountriesintheworld，acountryinwhichNaturedisplaysherselfinherwildest，boldest，andoccasionallyloveliestforms。Theinhabitants，whospeakanancientandpeculiarlanguage，donotcallthisregionWales，northemselvesWelsh。TheycallthemselvesCymryorCumry，andtheircountryCymru，orthelandoftheCumry。WalesorWallia，however，isthetrue，proper，andwithoutdoubtoriginalname，asitrelatesnottoanyparticularrace，whichatpresentinhabitsit，ormayhavesojournedinitatanylongbygoneperiod，buttothecountryitself。Walessignifiesalandofmountains，ofvales，ofdingles，chasms，andsprings。ItisconnectedwiththeCumbricbal，aprotuberance，aspringingforth；withtheCelticbeulorbeal，amouth；withtheoldEnglishwelle，afountain；withtheoriginalnameofItaly，stillcalledbytheGermansWelschland；

withBalkanandVulcan，bothofwhichsignifyacastingout，aneruption；withWelintorWayland，thenameoftheAnglo—Saxongodoftheforge；withtheChaldeeval，aforest，andtheGermanwald；

withtheEnglishbluff，andtheSanscritpalava—startlingassertions，nodoubt，atleasttosome；whichare，however，quitetrue，andwhichatsomefuturetimewillbeuniversallyacknowledgedsotobe。

ButitisnotforitssceneryalonethatWalesisdeservingofbeingvisited；scenerysoonpallsunlessitisassociatedwithremarkableevents，andthenamesofremarkablemen。PerhapsthereisnocountryinthewholeworldwhichhasbeenthesceneofeventsmorestirringandremarkablethanthoserecordedinthehistoryofWales。Whatothercountryhasbeenthesceneofastrugglesodeadly，soembittered，andprotractedasthatbetweentheCumroandtheSaxon？—AstrugglewhichdidnotterminateatCaernarvon，whenEdwardLongshanksfoistedhisyoungsonupontheWelshchieftainsasPrinceofWales；butwaskeptuptillthebattleofBosworthField，whenaprinceofCumricbloodwonthecrownoffairBritain，verifyingtheoldenwordwhichhadcheeredtheheartsoftheAncientBritonsforatleastathousandyears，evenintimesofthedarkestdistressandgloom：—

"ButafterlongpainReposeweshallobtain，Whenswaybarbarichaspurg’dusclean；

AndBritonsshallregainTheircrownandtheirdomain，Andtheforeignoppressorbenomoreseen。"

OfremarkablemenWaleshasassuredlyproduceditsfullshare。

First，tospeakofmenofaction：—therewasMadoc，thesonofOwainGwynedd，whodiscoveredAmerica，centuriesbeforeColumbuswasborn；thentherewas"theirregularandwildGlendower，"whoturnedrebelattheageofsixty，wascrownedKingofWalesatMachynlleth，andforfourteenyearscontrivedtoholdhisownagainstthewholepowerofEngland；thentherewasRyceApThomas，thebestsoldierofhistime，whosehandsplacedtheBritishcrownonthebrowofHenrytheSeventh，andwhombluffHenrytheEighthdelightedtocallFatherPreece；thentherewas—who？—whyHarryMorgan，wholedthosetremendousfellowstheBuccaneersacrosstheIsthmusofDarientothesackandburningofPanama。

What，abuccaneerinthelist？Ay！andwhynot？Morganwasascourge，itistrue，buthewasascourgeofGodonthecruelSpaniardsoftheNewWorld，themercilesstask—mastersandbutchersoftheIndianrace：onwhichaccountGodfavouredandprosperedhim，permittinghimtoattainthenobleageofninety，andtodiepeacefullyandtranquillyatJamaica，whilstsmokinghispipeinhisshadyarbour，withhissmilingplantationofsugar—canesfullinview。HowunlikethefateofHarryMorgantothatofLolonois，abeingasdaringandenterprisingastheWelshman，butamonsterwithoutruthordiscrimination，terribletofriendandfoe，whoperishedbythehands，notoftheSpaniards，butoftheIndians，whotorehimlimbfromlimb，burninghismembers，yetquivering，inthefire—whichveryIndiansMorgancontrivedtomakehisownfirmfriends，andwhosedifficultlanguagehespokewiththesamefacilityasEnglish，Spanish，andhisownSouthWelsh。

FormenofgeniusWalesduringalongperiodwasparticularlycelebrated。—WhohasnotheardoftheWelshBards？thoughitistruethat，beyondthebordersofWales，onlyaveryfewareacquaintedwiththeirsongs，owingtothelanguage，bynomeansaneasyone，inwhichtheywerecomposed。Honourtothemall！

everlastingglorytothethreegreatest—Taliesin，AbGwilymandGronwyOwen：thefirstaprofessedChristian，butinrealityaDruid，whosepoemsflinggreatlightonthedoctrinesoftheprimitivepriesthoodofEurope，whichcorrespondremarkablywiththephilosophyoftheHindus，beforethetimeofBrahma：thesecondthegrandpoetofNature，thecontemporaryofChaucer，butworthhalfadozenoftheaccomplishedword—master，theingeniousversifierofNormanandItaliantales：thethirdalearnedandirreproachableministeroftheChurchofEngland，andoneofthegreatestpoetsofthelastcentury，whoafterseveralnarrowescapesfromstarvationbothinEnglandandWales，diedmasterofapaltryschoolatNewBrunswick，inNorthAmerica，sometimeabouttheyear1780。

ButWaleshassomethingbesidesitswonderfulscenery，itseventfulhistory，anditsillustriousmenofyoretointerestthevisitor。

Waleshasapopulation，andaremarkableone。Therearecountries，besidesWales，aboundingwithnoblescenery，richineventfulhistories，andwhicharenotsparinglydottedwiththebirthplacesofheroesandpoets，inwhichatthepresentdaythereiseithernopopulationatall，oroneofacharacterwhichisanythingbutattractive。Ofacountryinthefirstpredicament，theScottishHighlandsaffordanexample：WhatacountryisthatHighlandregion！Whatscenery！andwhatassociations！IfWaleshasitsSnowdonandCaderIdris，theHighlandshavetheirHilloftheWaterDogs，andthatoftheSwarthySwine：IfWaleshasahistory，sohavetheHighlands—notindeedsoremarkableasthatofWales，buteventfulenough：IfWaleshashaditsheroes，itsGlendowerandFatherPryce，theHighlandshavehadtheirEvanCameronandRanaldofMoydart；IfWaleshashaditsromanticcharacters，itsGriffithApNicholasandHarryMorgan，theHighlandshavehadRobRoyandthatstrangefellowDonaldMacleod，themanofthebroadsword，theleaderoftheFreacadanDhu，whoatFontenoycaused，theLordonlyknows，howmanyFrenchmen’sheadstoflyofftheirshoulders，wholivedtotheageofonehundredandseven，andatseventy—oneperformedgallantserviceontheHeightsofAbraham：wrappedinwhoseplaidthedyingWolfewascarriedfromthehillofvictory。—

IfWaleshasbeenalandofsong，havenottheHighlandsalso？—IfWalescanboastofAbGwilymandGronwy，theHighlandscanboastofOssianandMacIntyre。Inmanyrespectsthetworegionsareequalsornearlyso；—Inonerespect，however，amatterofthepresentday，andaveryimportantmattertoo，theyareanythingbutequals：

Waleshasapopulation—butwhereisthatoftheHighlands？—

Plentyofnoblescene；Plentyofdelightfulassociations，historical，poetical，andromantic—but，but，whereisthepopulation？

ThepopulationofWaleshasnotdepartedacrosstheAtlantic，likethatoftheHighlands；itremainsathome，andaremarkablepopulationitis—verydifferentfromthepresentinhabitantsofseveralbeautifullandsofoldenfame，whohavestrangelydegeneratedfromtheirforefathers。Waleshasnotonlyapopulation，butahighlyinterestingone—hardyandfrugal，yetkindandhospitable—abitcrazed，itistrue，onthesubjectofreligion，butstillretainingplentyofoldCelticpeculiarities，andstillspeakingDiolchiDuw！—thelanguageofGlendowerandtheBards。

ThepresentisabookaboutWalesandWelshmatters。Hewhodoesmethehonourofperusingitwillbeconductedtomanyaspotnotonlyremarkableforpicturesqueness，butforhavingbeenthesceneofsomeextraordinaryevent，orthebirth—placeorresidenceofaherooramanofgenius；hewilllikewisebenotunfrequentlyintroducedtothegenuineWelsh，andmadeacquaintedwithwhattheyhavetosayaboutCumroandSaxon，buyingandselling，fatteninghogsandpoultry，Methodismandbaptism，andthepoor，persecutedChurchofEngland。

AnaccountofthelanguageofWaleswillbefoundinthelastchapter。IthasmanyfeaturesandwordsincommonwiththeSanscrit，andmanywhichseempeculiartoitself，orrathertothefamilyoflanguages，generallycalledtheCeltic，towhichitbelongs。Thoughnotanoriginaltongue，forindeednooriginaltongue，oranythingapproximatingtoone，atpresentexists，itiscertainlyofimmenseantiquity，indeedalmostentitledinthatrespecttodisputethepalmwiththegrandtongueofIndia，onwhichinsomerespectsitflingsnearlyasmuchelucidationasititselfreceivesinothers。AmongstthewordsquotedinthechapteralludedtoIwishparticularlytodirectthereader’sattentiontogwr，aman，andgwres，heat；towhichmaybeaddedgwreichionen，aspark。DoesnotthestrikingsimilaritybetweenthesewordswarrantthesuppositionthattheancientCumryentertainedtheideathatmanandfirewereoneandthesame，evenliketheancientHindus，whobelievedthatmansprangfromfire，andwhosewordvira，（1）whichsignifiesastrongman，ahero，signifiesalsofire？

Thereareofcoursefaultsandinaccuraciesinthework；butIhavereasontobelievethattheyareneithernumerousnorimportant：I

mayhaveoccasionallygivenawrongnametoahillorabrook；ormayhaveoverstatedorunderstated，byafurlong，thedistancebetweenonehamletandanother；orevencommittedtheblunderofsayingthatMrJonesApJenkinslivedinthisorthathomestead，whereasinrealityMrJenkinsApJoneshonoureditwithhisresidence：Imaybechargeablewithsuchinaccuracies；inwhichcaseIbegtoexpressduesorrowforthem，andatthesametimeahopethatIhaveaffordedinformationaboutmattersrelatingtoWaleswhichmorethanatonesforthem。Itwouldbeaswellifthosewhoexhibiteagernesstoexposethefaultsofabookwouldoccasionallyhavethecandourtosayawordortwoaboutitsmerits；suchawish，however，isnotlikelytobegratified，unlessindeedtheywiselytakeahintfromthefollowinglines，translatedfromacywyddofthelastofthegreatpoetsofWales：

"Allcanperceiveafault，wherethereisone—

Adirtyscampwillfindone，wherethere’snone。"（2）

WILDWALES：ITSPEOPLE，LANGUAGE，ANDSCENERY

CHAPTERI

ProposedExcursion—KnowledgeofWelsh—SingularGroom—

HarmoniousDistich—WelshPronunciation—DafyddAbGwilym。

INthesummeroftheyear1854myself，wife，anddaughterdeterminedupongoingintoWales，topassafewmonthsthere。WearecountrypeopleofacornerofEastAnglia，and，atthetimeofwhichIamspeaking，hadbeenresidingsolongonourownlittleestate，thatwehadbecometiredoftheobjectsaroundus，andconceivedthatweshouldbeallthebetterforchangingthesceneforashortperiod。Wewereundeterminedforsometimewithrespecttowhereweshouldgo。IproposedWalesfromthefirst，butmywifeanddaughter，whohavealwayshadratherahankeringafterwhatisfashionable，saidtheythoughtitwouldbemoreadvisabletogotoHarrowgate，orLeamington。Onmyobservingthatthosewereterribleplacesforexpense，theyrepliedthat，thoughthepriceofcornhadoflatebeenshamefullylow，wehadasparehundredpoundsortwoinourpockets，andcouldaffordtopayforalittleinsightintofashionablelife。ItoldthemthattherewasnothingIsomuchhatedasfashionablelife，butthat，asIwasanythingbutaselfishperson，Iwouldendeavourtostiflemyabhorrenceofitforatime，andattendthemeithertoLeamingtonorHarrowgate。BythisspeechIobtainedmywish，evenasIknewI

should，formywifeanddaughterinstantlyobserved，that，afterall，theythoughtwehadbettergointoWales，which，thoughnotsofashionableaseitherLeamingtonorHarrowgate，wasaverynicepicturesquecountry，where，theyhadnodoubt，theyshouldgetonverywell，moreespeciallyasIwasacquaintedwiththeWelshlanguage。

ItwasmyknowledgeofWelsh，suchasitwas，thatmademedesirousthatweshouldgotoWales，wheretherewasachancethatImightturnittosomelittleaccount。InmyboyhoodIhadbeensomethingofaphilologist；hadpickedupsomeLatinandGreekatschool；

someIrishinIreland，whereIhadbeenwithmyfather，whowasinthearmy；andsubsequentlywhilstanarticledclerktothefirstsolicitorinEastAnglia—indeedImaysaytheprinceofallEnglishsolicitors—forhewasagentleman，hadlearntsomeWelsh，partlyfrombooksandpartlyfromaWelshgroom，whoseacquaintanceImade。Aqueergroomhewas，andwelldeservingofhavinghisportraitdrawn。Hemightbeaboutforty—sevenyearsofage，andaboutfivefeeteightinchesinheight；hisbodywasspareandwiry；hischestratherbroad，andhisarmsremarkablylong；hislegswereofthekindgenerallyknownasspindle—shanks，butvigorouswithal，fortheycarriedhisbodywithgreatagility；neckhehadnone，atleastthatIeverobserved；andhisheadwasanythingbuthigh，notmeasuring，Ishouldthink，morethanfourinchesfromthebottomofthechintothetopoftheforehead；hischeek—boneswerehigh，hiseyesgreyanddeeplysunkeninhisface，withanexpressioninthem，partlysullen，andpartlyirascible；

hiscomplexionwasindescribable；thelittlehairwhichhehad，whichwasalmostentirelyonthesidesandthebackpartofhishead，wasofaniron—greyhue。Heworealeatherhatonordinarydays，lowatthecrown，andwiththesideeavesturnedup。Adirtypepperandsaltcoat，awaistcoatwhichhadoncebeenred，butwhichhadlostitspristinecolour，andlookedbrown；dirtyyellowleatherbreeches，greyworstedstockings，andhigh—lows。SurelyI

wasrightwhenIsaidhewasaverydifferentgroomtothoseofthepresentday，whetherWelshorEnglish？Whatsayyou，SirWatkin？

Whatsayyou，myLordofExeter？Helookedafterthehorses，andoccasionallyassistedinthehouseofapersonwholivedattheendofanalley，inwhichtheofficeofthegentlemantowhomIwasarticledwassituated，andhavingtopassbythedooroftheofficehalf—a—dozentimesintheday，hedidnotfailtoattractthenoticeoftheclerks，who，sometimesindividually，sometimesbytwos，sometimesbythrees，orevenmore，notunfrequentlystoodatthedoor，bareheaded—mis—spendingthetimewhichwasnotlegallytheirown。Sundryobservations，noneofthemveryflattering，didtheclerksand，amongstthem，myself，makeuponthegroom，ashepassedandrepassed，someofthemdirect，otherssomewhatoblique。

Tothesehemadenoreplysavebylooks，whichhadinthemsomethingdangerousandmenacing，andclenchingwithoutraisinghisfists，whichlookedsingularlyhardandhorny。AtlengthawhisperranaboutthealleythatthegroomwasaWelshman；thiswhispermuchincreasedthemaliceofmybrotherclerksagainsthim，whowerenowwheneverhepassedthedoor，andtheyhappenedtobetherebytwosorthrees，inthehabitofsayingsomething，asifbyaccident，againstWalesandWelshmen，and，individuallyortogether，wereinthehabitofshoutingout"Taffy，"whenhewasatsomedistancefromthem，andhisbackwasturned，orregalinghisearswiththeharmoniousandwell—knowndistichof"TaffywasaWelshman，Taffywasathief：Taffycametomyhouseandstoleapieceofbeef。"Ithad，however，averydifferenteffectuponme。

IwastryingtolearnWelsh，andtheideaoccurringtomethatthegroommightbeabletoassistmeinmypursuit，Iinstantlylostalldesiretotormenthim，anddeterminedtodomybesttoscrapeacquaintancewithhim，andpersuadehimtogivemewhatassistancehecouldinWelsh。Isucceeded；howIwillnottroublethereaderwithdescribing：heandIbecamegreatfriends，andhetaughtmewhatWelshhecould。InreturnforhisinstructionsIpersuadedmybrotherclerkstoleaveoffholloingafterhim，andtodonothingfurthertohurthisfeelings，whichhadbeenverydeeplywounded，somuchso，thatafterthefirsttwoorthreelessonshetoldmeinconfidencethatonthemorningoftheverydayIfirstbegantoconciliatehimhehadcometotheresolutionofdoingoneoftwothings，namely，eithertohanghimselffromthebalkofthehayloft，ortogivehismasterwarning，bothofwhichthingshetoldmeheshouldhavebeenveryunwillingtodo，moreparticularlyashehadawifeandfamily。HegavemelessonsonSundayafternoons，atmyfather’shouse，wherehemadehisappearanceveryrespectablydressed，inabeaverhat，bluesurtout，whitishwaistcoat，blacktrowsersandWellingtons，allwithasomewhatancientlook—theWellingtonsIrememberwereslightlypiecedatthesides—butalluponthewholeveryrespectable。Iwishedatfirsttopersuadehimtogivemelessonsintheoffice，butcouldnotsucceed："No，no，lad；"saidhe，"catchmegoinginthere：I

wouldjustassoonventureintoanestofporcupines。"TotranslatefrombooksIhadalready，toacertaindegree，taughtmyself，andathisfirstvisitIdiscovered，andhehimselfacknowledged，thatatbookWelshIwasstrongerthanhimself，butI

learntWelshpronunciationfromhim，andtodiscoursealittleintheWelshtongue。"Hadyoumuchdifficultyinacquiringthesoundofthell？"IthinkIhearthereaderinquire。Nonewhatever：thedoubleloftheWelshisbynomeanstheterriblegutturalwhichEnglishpeoplegenerallysupposeittobe，beinginrealityaprettyliquid，exactlyresemblinginsoundtheSpanishll，thesoundofwhichIhadmasteredbeforecommencingWelsh，andwhichisequivalenttotheEnglishlh；sobeingabletopronouncellanoI

hadofcoursenodifficultyinpronouncingLluyd，whichby—the—byewasthenameofthegroom。

IrememberthatIfoundthepronunciationoftheWelshfarlessdifficultthanIhadfoundthegrammar，themostremarkablefeatureofwhichisthemutation，undercertaincircumstances，ofparticularconsonants，whenformingtheinitialsofwords。ThisfeatureIhadobservedintheIrish，whichIhadthenonlylearntbyear。

Buttoreturntothegroom。Hewasreallyaremarkablecharacter，andtaughtmetwoorthreethingsbesidesWelshpronunciation；andtodiscoursealittleinCumraeg。Hehadbeenasoldierinhisyouth，andhadservedunderMooreandWellingtoninthePeninsularcampaigns，andfromhimIlearntthedetailsofmanyabloodyfieldandbloodierstorm，ofthesufferingsofpoorBritishsoldiers，andthetyrannyofhaughtyBritishofficers；moreespeciallyofthetwocommandersjustmentioned，thefirstofwhomhesworewasshotbyhisownsoldiers，andthesecondmorefrequentlyshotatbyBritishthanFrench。Butitisnotdeemedamatterofgoodtastetowriteaboutsuchlowpeopleasgrooms，IshallthereforedismisshimwithnoobservationfurtherthanthatafterhehadvisitedmeonSundayafternoonsforaboutayearhedepartedforhisowncountrywithhiswife，whowasanEnglishwoman，andhischildren，inconsequenceofhavingbeenleftasmallfreeholdtherebyadistantrelation，andthatIneithersawnorheardofhimagain。

ButthoughIhadlostmyoralinstructorIhadstillmysilentones，namely，theWelshbooks，andoftheseImadesuchusethatbeforetheexpirationofmyclerkshipIwasabletoreadnotonlyWelshprose，but，whatwasinfinitelymoredifficult，Welshpoetryinanyofthefour—and—twentymeasures，andwaswellversedinthecompositionsofvariousoftheoldWelshbards，especiallythoseofDafyddabGwilym，whom，sincethetimewhenIfirstbecameacquaintedwithhisworks，IhavealwaysconsideredasthegreatestpoeticalgeniusthathasappearedinEuropesincetherevivalofliterature。

AfterthisexordiumIthinkImayproceedtonarratethejourneyofmyselfandfamilyintoWales。Asperhaps，however，itwillbethoughtthat，thoughIhavesaidquiteenoughaboutmyselfandacertaingroom，Ihavenotsaidquiteenoughaboutmywifeanddaughter，Iwilladdalittlemoreaboutthem。OfmywifeIwillmerelysaythatsheisaperfectparagonofwives—canmakepuddingsandsweetsandtreacleposset，andisthebestwomanofbusinessinEasternAnglia—ofmystep—daughter—forsuchsheis，thoughIgenerallycallherdaughter，andwithgoodreason，seeingthatshehasalwaysshownherselfadaughtertome—thatshehasallkindsofgoodqualities，andseveralaccomplishments，knowingsomethingofconchology，moreofbotany，drawingcapitallyintheDutchstyle，andplayingremarkablywellontheguitar—notthetrumperyGermanthingso—called—buttherealSpanishguitar。

CHAPTERII

TheStarting—PeterboroughCathedral—Anglo—SaxonNames—KaempeViser—Steam—NormanBarons—ChesterAle—SionTudor—PrettyWelshTongue。

SOourlittlefamily，consistingofmyself，mywifeMary，andmydaughterHenrietta，fordaughterIshallpersistincallingher，startedforWalesintheafternoonofthe27thJuly，1854。WeflewthroughpartofNorfolkandCambridgeshireinatrainwhichweleftatEly，andgettingintoanother，whichdidnotflyquitesofastastheonewehadquieted，reachedthePeterboroughstationataboutsixo’clockofadelightfulevening。Weproceedednofartheronourjourneythatday，inorderthatwemighthaveanopportunityofseeingthecathedral。

SallyingarminarmfromtheStationHotel，wherewehaddeterminedtotakeupourquartersforthenight，wecrossedabridgeoverthedeepquietNen，onthesouthernbankofwhichstandsthestation，andsoonarrivedatthecathedral—unfortunatelyweweretoolatetoprocureadmissionintotheinterior，andhadtocontentourselveswithwalkingrounditandsurveyingitsoutside。

Itisnamedafter，andoccupiesthesite，orpartofthesiteofanimmensemonastery，foundedbytheMercianKingPeda，intheyear665，anddestroyedbyfireintheyear1116，whichmonastery，thoughoriginallytermedMedeshamsted，orthehomesteadonthemeads，wassubsequentlytermedPeterborough，fromthecircumstanceofitshavingbeenrearedbytheoldSaxonmonarchfortheloveofGodandthehonourofSaintPeter，astheSaxonChroniclesays，abookwhichIwentthroughcarefullyinmyyoungerdays，whenI

studiedSaxon，for，asIhavealreadytoldthereader，Iwasinthosedaysabitofaphilologist。Likethefirst，thesecondedificewasoriginallyamonastery，andcontinuedsotillthetimeoftheReformation；bothwereabodesoflearning；foriftheSaxonChroniclewascommencedinthemonkishcellsofthefirst，itwascompletedinthoseofthesecond。WhatisatpresentcalledPeterboroughCathedralisanoblevenerablepile，equaluponthewholeinexternalappearancetothecathedralsofToledo，BurgosandLeon，allofwhichIhaveseen。Nothinginarchitecturecanbeconceivedmorebeautifulthantheprincipalentrance，whichfrontsthewest，andwhich，atthetimewesawit，wasgildedwiththeraysofthesettingsun。

Afterhavingstrolledabouttheedificesurveyingituntilwewereweary，wereturnedtoourinn，andaftertakinganexcellentsupperretiredtorest。

Atteno’clocknextmorningweleftthecapitalofthemeads。Withdragonspeed，anddragonnoise，fire，smoke，andfury，thetraindashedalongitsroadthroughbeautifulmeadows，garnishedhereandtherewithpollardsallows；overprettystreams，whosewatersstolealongimperceptibly；byvenerableoldchurches，whichIvowedI

wouldtakethefirstopportunityofvisiting：stoppingnowandthentorecruititsenergiesatplaces，whoseoldAnglo—Saxonnamesstaredmeintheeyesfromstationboards，asspecimensofwhich，letmeonlydotdownWillyThorpe，Ringsted，andYrthlingBoro。

QuiteforgettingeverythingWelsh，IwasenthusiasticallySaxonthewholewayfromMedeshamstedtoBlissworth，sothoroughlySaxonwasthecountry，withitsrichmeads，itsoldchurchesanditsnames。

AfterleavingBlissworth，athoroughlySaxonplaceby—the—bye，asitsnameshows，signifyingthestrongholdorpossessionofBlighorBlee，IbecamelessSaxon；thecountrywasratherlessSaxon，andI

caughtoccasionallytheword"by"onaboard，theDanishforatown；which"by"wakedinmeaconsiderableportionofDanishenthusiasm，ofwhichIhaveplenty，andwithreason，havingtranslatedthegloriousKaempeViseroverthedeskofmyancientmaster，thegentlemansolicitorofEastAnglia。AtlengthwedrewnearthegreatworkshopofEngland，calledbysome，BrummagemorBromwicham，byothersBirmingham，andIfellintoaphilologicalreverie，wonderingwhichwastherightname。Before，however，wecametothestation，Idecidedthatbothnameswererightenough，butthatBromwichamwastheoriginalname；signifyingthehomeonthebroomiemoor，whichnameitlostinpoliteparlanceforBirmingham，orthehomeofthesonofBiarmer，whenacertainmanofDanishblood，calledBiarming，orthesonofBiarmer，gotpossessionofit，whetherbyforce，fraud，ormarriage—thelatter，by—the—bye，isbyfarthebestwayofgettingpossessionofanestate—thisdeponentneitherknowethnorcareth。AtBirminghamstationIbecameamodernEnglishman，enthusiasticallyproudofmodernEngland’sscienceandenergy；thatstationaloneisenoughtomakeoneproudofbeingamodernEnglishman。Oh，whatanideadoesthatstation，withitsthousandtrainsdashingoffinalldirections，orarrivingfromallquarters，giveofmodernEnglishscienceandenergy。MymodernEnglishprideaccompaniedmeallthewaytoTipton；forallalongtheroutetherewerewonderfulevidencesofEnglishskillandenterprise；inchimneyshighascathedralspires，vomitingforthsmoke，furnacesemittingflameandlava，andinthesoundofgigantichammers，wieldedbysteam，theEnglishman’sslave。