第16章

wanted：IrepeatedwhatIhadsaid，whereuponhisfacebecameanimated。

"LlanfairMathafarneithaf！"saidhe。"Yes，Icantellyouaboutit，andwithgoodreason，foritliesnotfarfromtheplacewhereIwasborn。"

Theabovewasthesubstanceofwhathesaid，andnothingmore，forhespokeinEnglishsomewhatbroken。

"AndhowfarisLlanfairfromhere？"saidI。

"Abouttenmiles，"hereplied。

"That’snothing，"saidI："Iwasafraiditwasmuchfarther。"

"Doyoucalltenmilesnothing，"saidhe，"inaburningdaylikethis？IthinkyouwillbebothtiredandthirstybeforeyougettoLlanfair，supposingyougothereonfoot。ButwhatmayyourbusinessbeatLlanfair？"saidhe，lookingatmeinquisitively。

"Itisastrangeplacetogoto，unlessyougotobuyhogsorcattle。"

"Igotobuyneitherhogsnorcattle，"saidI，"thoughIamsomewhatofajudgeofboth；Igoonamoreimportanterrand，namelytoseethebirth—placeofthegreatGronwyOwen。"

"AreyouanyrelationofGronwyOwen？"saidtheoldman，lookingatmemoreinquisitivelythanbefore，throughalargepairofspectacleswhichhewore。

"Nonewhatever，"saidI。

"Thenwhydoyougotoseehisparish，itisaverypoorone。"

"Fromrespecttohisgenius，"saidI；"Ireadhisworkslongago，andwasdelightedwiththem。"

"AreyouaWelshman？"saidtheoldman。

"No，"saidI，"IamnoWelshman。"

"CanyouspeakWelsh？"saidhe，addressingmeinthatlanguage。

"Alittle，"saidI；"butnotsowellasIcanreadit。"

"Well，"saidtheoldman，"Ihavelivedhereagreatmanyyears，butneverbeforedidaSaxoncalluponme，askingquestionsaboutGronwyOwen，orhisbirth—place。Immortalitytohismemory！Iowemuchtohim，forreadinghiswritingstaughtmetobeapoet！"

"Dearme！"saidI，"areyouapoet？"

"ItrustIam，"saidhe；"thoughthehumblestofYnysFon。"

Aflashofproudfire，methought，illuminedhisfeaturesashepronouncedtheselastwords。

"Iammosthappytohavemetyou，"saidI；"buttellmehowamItogettoLlanfair？"

"Youmustgofirst，"saidhe，"toTraethCochwhichinSaxoniscalledthe’RedSand。’InthevillagecalledthePentraethwhichliesabovethatsand，Iwasborn；throughthevillageandoverthebridgeyoumustpass，andafterwalkingfourmilesduenorthyouwillfindyourselfinLlanfaireithaf，atthenorthernextremityofMon。Farewell！ThateverSaxonshouldaskmeaboutGronwyOwen，andhisbirth—place！IscarcelybelieveyoutobeaSaxon，butwhetheryoubeornot，Irepeatfarewell。"

ComingtotheMenaiBridgeIaskedthemanwhotookthepennytollattheentrance，thewaytoPentraethCoch。

"Youseethatwhitehousebythewood，"saidhe，pointingsomedistanceintoAnglesey；"youmustmaketowardsittillyoucometoaplacewheretherearefourcrossroadsandthenyoumusttaketheroadtotheright。"

PassingoverthebridgeImademywaytowardsthehousebythewoodwhichstoodonthehilltillIcamewherethefourroadsmet，whenIturnedtotherightasdirected。

ThecountrythroughwhichIpassedseemedtolerablywellcultivated，thehedge—rowswereveryhigh，seemingtospringoutoflowstonewalls。Imettwoorthreegangsofreapersproceedingtotheirworkwithscythesintheirhands。

Inabouthalf—an—hourIpassedbyafarm—housepartlysurroundedwithwalnuttrees。Stillthesamehighhedgesonbothsidesoftheroad：arethesehedgesrelicsofthesacrificialgrovesofMona？

thoughtItomyself。ThenIcametoawretchedvillagethroughwhichIhurriedattherateofsixmilesanhour。Ithensawalong，lofty，craggyhillonmyrighthandtowardstheeast。

"Whatmountainisthat？"saidItoanurchinplayinginthehotdustoftheroad。

"MynyddLydiart！"saidtheurchin，tossingupahandfulofthehotdustintotheair，partofwhichindescendingfellintomyeyes。

Ishortlyafterwardspassedbyahandsomelodge。Ithensawgroves，mountainLydiartforminganoblebackground。

"Whoownsthiswood？"saidIinWelshtotwomenwhowerelimbingafelledtreebytheroad—side。

"LordVivian，"answeredone，touchinghishat。

"Thegentlemanisourcountryman，"saidhetotheotherafterIhadpassed。

Iwasnowdescendingthesideofaprettyvalley，andsoonfoundmyselfatPentraethCoch。ThepartofthePentraethwhereInowwasconsistedofafewhousesandachurch，orsomethingwhichI

judgedtobeachurch，fortherewasnosteeple；thehousesandchurchstoodaboutalittleopenspotorsquare，thechurchontheeast，andonthewestaneatlittleinnorpublic—houseoverthedoorofwhichwaswritten"TheWhiteHorse。HughPritchard。"BythistimeIhadverifiedinpartthepredictionoftheoldWelshpoetofthepost—office。ThoughIwasnotyetarrivedatLlanfair，Iwas，ifnottired，verythirsty，owingtotheburningheatoftheweather，soIdeterminedtogoinandhavesomeale。OnenteringthehouseIwasgreetedinEnglishbyMrHughPritchardhimself，atallbulkymanwithaweather—beatencountenance，dressedinabrownjerkinandcorduroytrowsers，withabroadlow—crownedbuff—

colouredhatonhishead，andwhatmighthecalledhalfshoesandhalfhigh—lowsonhisfeet。Hehadashortpipeinhismouth，whichwhenhegreetedmehetookout，butreplacedassoonasthegreetingwasover，whichconsistedof"Good—day，sir，"deliveredinafrank，heartytone。IlookedMrHughPritchardinthefaceandthoughtIhadneverseenamorehonestcountenance。OnmytellingMrPritchardthatIwantedapintofale，abuxomdamselcameforwardandledmeintoanicecoolparlourontheright—handsideofthedoor，andthenwenttofetchtheale。

MrPritchardmeanwhilewentintoakindoftap—room，frontingtheparlour，whereIheardhimtalkinginWelshaboutpigsandcattletosomeofhiscustomers。Iobservedthathespokewithsomehesitation；whichcircumstanceImentionasrathercurious，hebeingtheonlyWelshmanIhaveeverknownwho，whenspeakinghisnativelanguage，appearedtobeatalossforwords。Thedamselpresentlybroughtmetheale，whichItastedandfoundexcellent；

shewasgoingawaywhenIaskedherwhetherMrPritchardwasherfather；onherreplyingintheaffirmativeIinquiredwhethershewasborninthathouse。

"No！"saidshe；"IwasborninLiverpool；myfatherwasborninthishouse，whichbelongedtohisfathersbeforehim，butheleftitatanearlyageandmarriedmymotherinLiverpool，whowasanAngleseywoman，andsoIwasborninLiverpool。"

"AndwhatdidyoudoinLiverpool？"saidI。

"Mymotherkeptalittleshop，"saidthegirl，"whilstmyfatherfollowedvariousoccupations。"

"Andhowlonghaveyoubeenhere？"saidI。

"Sincethedeathofmygrandfather，"saidthegirl，"whichhappenedaboutayearago。Whenhediedmyfathercamehereandtookpossessionofhisbirth—right。"

"YouspeakverygoodEnglish，"saidI；"haveyouanyWelsh？"

"Ohyes，plenty，"saidthegirl；"wealwaysspeakWelshtogether，butbeingbornatLiverpool，IofcoursehaveplentyofEnglish。"

"Andwhichlanguagedoyouprefer？"saidI。

"IthinkIlikeEnglishbest，"saidthegirl，"itisthemostusefullanguage。"

"NotinAnglesey，"saidI。

"Well，"saidthegirl，"itisthemostgenteel。"

"Gentility，"saidI，"willbetheruinofWelsh，asithasbeenofmanyotherthings—whathaveItopayfortheale？"

"Threepence，"saidshe。

Ipaidthemoneyandthegirlwentout。Ifinishedmyale，andgettingupmadeforthedoor；atthedoorIwasmetbyMrHughPritchard，whocameoutofthetap—roomtothankmeformycustom，andtobidmefarewell。IaskedhimwhetherIshouldhaveanydifficultyinfindingthewaytoLlanfair。

"Nonewhatever，"saidhe，"youhaveonlytopassoverthebridgeoftheTraeth，andtogoduenorthforaboutfourmiles，andyouwillfindyourselfinLlanfair。"

"Whatkindofplaceisit？"saidI。

"Apoorstragglingvillage，"saidMrPritchard。

"ShallIbeabletoobtainalodgingthereforthenight？"saidI。

"Scarcelyonesuchasyouwouldlike，"saidHugh。

"AndwherehadIbestpassthenight？"Idemanded。

"Wecanaccommodateyoucomfortablyhere，"saidMrPritchard，"providedyouhavenoobjectiontocomeback。"

ItoldhimthatIshouldbeonlytoohappy，andforthwithdeparted，gladatheartthatIhadsecuredacomfortablelodgingforthenight。

CHAPTERXXXII

LeavePentraeth—TranquilScene—TheKnoll—TheMillerandhisWife—PoetryofGronwy—KindOffer—ChurchofLlanfair—NoEnglish—ConfusionofIdeas—TheGronwy—NotableLittleGirl—

TheSycamoreLeaf—HomefromCalifornia。

THEvillageofPentraethGochoccupiestwosidesofaromanticdell—thatpartofitwhichstandsonthesouthernside，andwhichcomprisesthechurchandthelittleinn，isbyfartheprettiest，thatwhichoccupiesthenorthernisapoorassemblageofhuts，abrookrollsatthebottomofthedell，overwhichthereisalittlebridge：comingtothebridgeIstopped，andlookedoverthesideintothewaterrunningbrisklybelow。Anagedmanwholookedlikeabeggar，butwhodidnotbegofme，stoodby。

"Towhatplacedoesthiswaterrun？"saidIinEnglish。

"IknownoSaxon，"saidheintremblingaccents。

IrepeatedmyquestioninWelsh。

"Tothesea，"hesaid，"whichisnotfaroff，indeeditissonear，thatwhentherearehightides，thesaltwatercomesuptothisbridge。"

"Youseemfeeble？"saidI。

"Iamso，"saidhe，"forIamold。"

"Howoldareyou？"saidI。

"Sixteenaftersixty，"saidtheoldmanwithasigh；"andIhavenearlylostmysightandmyhearing。"

"Areyoupoor？"saidI。

"Very，"saidtheoldman。

Igavehimatriflewhichheacceptedwiththanks。

"Whyisthissandcalledtheredsand？"saidI。

"Icannottellyou，"saidtheoldman，"IwishIcould，foryouhavebeenkindtome。"

BiddinghimfarewellIpassedthroughthenorthernpartofthevillagetothetopofthehill。Iwalkedalittlewayforwardandthenstopped，asIhaddoneatthebridgeinthedale，andlookedtotheeast，overalowstonewall。

BeforemelaytheseaorratherthenorthernentranceoftheMenaiStraits。TomyrightwasmountainLidiartprojectingsomewayintothesea；tomyleft，thatistothenorth，wasahighhill，withafewwhitehousesnearitsbase，formingasmallvillage，whichawomanwhopassedbyknittingtoldmewascalledLlanPederGochortheChurchofRedSaintPeter。MountainLidiartandtheNorthernHillformedtheheadlandsofabeautifulbayintowhichthewatersoftheTraethdell，fromwhichIhadcome，weredischarged。A

sandbank，probablycoveredwiththeseaathightide，seemedtostretchfrommountainLidiartaconsiderablewaytowardsthenorthernhill。Mountain，bayandsandbankwerebathedinsunshine；

thewaterwasperfectlycalm；nothingwasmovinguponit，norupontheshore，andIthoughtIhadneverbeheldamorebeautifulandtranquilscene。

Iwenton。Thecountrywhichhadhithertobeenverybeautiful，aboundingwithyellowcorn—fields，becamesterileandrocky；therewerestonewalls，butnohedges。Ipassedbyamooronmyleft，thenamooryhillockonmyright；thewaywasbrokenandstony；alltracesofthegoodroadsofWaleshaddisappeared；thehabitationswhichIsawbythewayweremiserablehovelsintoandoutofwhichlargesowswerestalking，attendedbytheirfarrows。

"AmIfarfromLlanfair？"saidItoachild。

"YouareinLlanfair，gentleman，"saidthechild。

AdesolateplacewasLlanfair。Theseaintheneighbourhoodtothesouth，limekilnswiththeirstiflingsmokenotfarfromme。Isatdownonalittlegreenknollontheright—handsideoftheroad；asmallhousewasnearme，andadesolate—lookingmillataboutafurlong’sdistance，tothesouth。Hogscameaboutmegruntingandsniffing。Ifeltquitemelancholy。

"Isthistheneighbourhoodofthebirth—placeofGronwyOwen？"saidItomyself。"Nowonderthathewasunfortunatethroughlife，springingfromsucharegionofwretchedness。"

Wretchedastheregionseemed，however，Isoonfoundtherewerekindlyheartsclosebyme。

AsIsatontheknollIheardsomeoneslightlycoughverynearme，andlookingtotheleftsawamandressedlikeamillerlookingatmefromthegardenofthelittlehouse，whichIhavealreadymentioned。

IgotupandgavehimtheseleofthedayinEnglish。Hewasamanaboutthirty，rathertallthanotherwise，withaveryprepossessingcountenance。HeshookhisheadatmyEnglish。

"What，"saidI，addressinghiminthelanguageofthecountry，"haveyounoEnglish？PerhapsyouhaveWelsh？"

"Plenty，"saidhe，laughing"thereisnolackofWelshamongstanyofushere。AreyouaWelshman？"

"No，"saidI，"anEnglishmanfromthefareastofLloegr。"

"Andwhatbringsyouhere？"saidtheman。

"Astrangeerrand，"Ireplied，"tolookatthebirth—placeofamanwhohaslongbeendead。"

"Doyoucometoseekforaninheritance？"saidtheman。

"No，"saidI。"Besidesthemanwhosebirth—placeIcametosee，diedpoor，leavingnothingbehindhimbutimmortality。"

"Whowashe？"saidthemiller。

"DidyoueverhearasoundofGronwyOwen？"saidI。

"Frequently，"saidthemiller；"Ihavefrequentlyheardasoundofhim。Hewasbornclosebyinahouseyonder，"pointingtothesouth。

"Ohyes，gentleman，"saidanice—lookingwoman，whoholdingalittlechildbythehandwascometothehouse—door，andwaseagerlylistening，"wehavefrequentlyheardspeakofGronwyOwen；

thereismuchtalkofhimintheseparts。"

"Iamgladtohearit，"saidI，"forIhavefearedthathisnamewouldnotbeknownhere。"

"Pray，gentleman，walkin！"saidthemiller；"wearegoingtohaveourafternoon’smeal，andshallberejoicedifyouwilljoinus。"

"Yes，do，gentleman，"saidthemiller’swife，forsuchthegoodwomanwas；"andmanyawelcomeshallyouhave。"

Ihesitated，andwasabouttoexcusemyself。

"Don’trefuse，gentleman！"saidboth，"surelyyouarenottooproudtositdownwithus？"

"IamafraidIshallonlycauseyoutrouble，"saidI。

"Dimblinder，notrouble，"exclaimedbothatonce；"praydowalkin！"

Ienteredthehouse，andthekitchen，parlour，orwhateveritwas，anicelittleroomwithaslatefloor。Theymademesitdownatatablebythewindow，whichwasalreadylaidforameal。Therewasacleanclothuponit，atea—pot，cupsandsaucers，alargeplateofbread—and—butter，andaplate，onwhichwereafewverythinslicesofbrown，waterycheese。

Mygoodfriendstooktheirseats，thewifepouredoutteaforthestrangerandherhusband，helpedusbothtobread—and—butterandthewaterycheese，thentookcareofherself。Before，however，I

couldtastethetea，thewife，seemingtorecollectherself，startedup，andhurryingtoacupboard，producedabasinfullofsnow—whitelumpsugar，andtakingthespoonoutofmyhand，placedtwoofthelargestlumpsinmycup，thoughshehelpedneitherherhusbandnorherself；thesugar—basinbeingprobablyonlykeptforgrandoccasions。

Myeyesfilledwithtears；forinthewholecourseofmylifeIhadneverexperiencedsomuchgenuinehospitality。HonourtothemillerofMonaandhiswife；andhonourtothekindhospitableCeltsingeneral！Howdifferentisthereceptionofthisdespisedraceofthewanderingstrangerfromthatof—。However，IamaSaxonmyself，andtheSaxonshavenodoubttheirvirtues；apitythattheyshouldbealluncouthandungraciousones！

Iaskedmykindhosthisname。

"JohnJones，"hereplied，"MelinyddofLlanfair。"

"Isthemillwhichyouworkyourownproperty？"Iinquired。

"No，"heanswered，"Irentitofapersonwholivescloseby。"

"Andhowhappensit，"saidI，"thatyouspeaknoEnglish？"

"Howshouldithappen，"saidhe，"thatIshouldspeakany？Ihaveneverbeenfarfromhere；mywifewhohaslivedatserviceatLiverpoolcanspeaksome。"

"Canyoureadpoetry？"saidI。

"Icanreadthepsalmsandhymnsthattheysingatourchapel，"hereplied。

"ThenyouarenotoftheChurch？"saidI。

"Iamnot，"saidthemiller；"IamaMethodist。"

"CanyoureadthepoetryofGronwyOwen？"saidI。

"Icannot，"saidthemiller，"thatiswithanycomfort；hispoetryisintheancientWelshmeasures，whichmakepoetrysodifficultthatfewcanunderstandit。"

"Icanunderstandpoetryinthosemeasures，"saidI。

"Andhowmuchtimedidyouspend，"saidthemiller，"beforeyoucouldunderstandthepoetryofthemeasures？"

"Threeyears，"saidI。

Themillerlaughed。

"Icouldnothaveaffordedallthattime，"saidhe，"tostudythesongsofGronwy。However，itiswellthatsomepeopleshouldhavetimetostudythem。HewasagreatpoetasIhavebeentold，andisthegloryofourland—buthewasunfortunate；IhavereadhislifeinWelshandpartofhisletters；andindoingsohaveshedtears。"

"Hashishouseanyparticularname？"saidI。

"ItiscalledsometimesTyGronwy，"saidthemiller；"butmorefrequentlyTafarnGoch。"

"TheRedTavern？"saidI。"HowisitthatsomanyofyourplacesarecalledGoch？thereisPentraethGoch；thereisSaintPedairGoch，andhereatLlanfairisTafarnGoch。"

Themillerlaughed。

"ItwilltakeawisermanthanI，"saidhe，"toanswerthatquestion。"

TherepastoverIroseup，gavemyhostthanks，andsaid，"Iwillnowleaveyou，andhuntupthingsconnectedwithGronwy。"

"Andwherewillyoufindallettyfornight，gentleman？"saidthemiller’swife。"Thisisapoorplace，butifyouwillmakeuseofourhomeyouarewelcome。"

"Ineednottroubleyou，"saidI，"IreturnthisnighttoPentraethGochwhereIshallsleep。"

"Well，"saidthemiller，"whilstyouareatLlanfairIwillaccompanyyouabout。Whereshallwegotofirst？"

"Whereisthechurch？"saidI。"IshouldliketoseethechurchwhereGronwyworshippedGodasaboy。"

"Thechurchisatsomedistance，"saidtheman；"itispastmymill，andasIwanttogotothemillforamoment，itwillbeperhapswelltogoandseethechurch，beforewegotothehouseofGronwy。"

Ishookthemiller’swifebythehand，pattedalittleyellow—

hairedgirlofabouttwoyearsoldonthehead，whoduringthewholetimeofthemealhadsatontheslatefloorlookingupintomyface，andleftthehousewithhonestJones。

Wedirectedourcoursetothemill，whichlaysomewaydownadeclivity，towardsthesea。Nearthemillwasacomfortable—

lookinghouse，whichmyfriendtoldmebelongedtotheproprietorofthemill。Arustic—lookingmanstoodinthemill—yard，whohesaidwastheproprietor。Thehonestmillerwentintothemill，andtherustic—lookingproprietorgreetedmeinWelsh，andaskedmeifIwascometobuyhogs。

"No，"saidI；"Iamcometoseethebirth—placeofGronwyOwen；"hestaredatmeforamoment，thenseemedtomuse，andatlastwalkedawaysaying，"Ah！agreatman。"

Themillerpresentlyjoinedme，andweproceededfartherdownthehill。Ourwaylaybetweenstonewalls，andsometimesoverthem。

Thelandwasmooryandrocky，withnothinggrandaboutit，andthemillerdescribeditwellwhenhesaiditwastirgwael—meanland。

Inaboutaquarterofanhourwecametothechurchyardintowhichwegot，thegatebeinglocked，byclamberingoverthewall。

Thechurchstandslowdownthedescent，notfardistantfromthesea。Alittlebrook，calledinthelanguageofthecountryafrwd，washesitsyard—wallonthesouth。Itisasmalledificewithnospire，buttothesouth—westthereisalittlestoneerectionrisingfromtheroof，inwhichhangsabell—thereisasmallporchlookingtothesouth。WithrespecttoitsinteriorIcansaynothing，thedoorbeinglocked。Itisprobablyliketheoutside，simpleenough。Itseemedtobeabouttwohundredandfiftyyearsold，andtobekeptintolerablerepair。Simpleastheedificewas，Ilookedwithgreatemotionuponit；andcouldIdoelse，whenIreflectedthatthegreatestBritishpoetofthelastcenturyhadworshippedGodwithinit，withhispoorfatherandmother，whenaboy？

Iaskedthemillerwhetherhecouldpointouttomeanytombsorgrave—stonesofGronwy’sfamily，buthetoldmethathewasnotawareofany。OnlookingaboutIfoundthenameofOwenintheinscriptionontheslateslabofarespectable—lookingmoderntomb，onthenorth—eastsideofthechurch。Theinscriptionwasasfollows：

ErcofamJANEOWEN

GwraigEdwardOwen，MonachlogLlanfairMathafameithaf，AfufarwChwefror281842

Yn51Oed。

I。E。"TothememoryofJANEOWENWifeofEdwardOwen，ofthemonasteryofStMaryoffartherMathafarn，whodiedFebruary28，1842，agedfifty—one。"

WhethertheEdwardOwenmentionedherewasanyrelationtothegreatGronwy，Ihadnoopportunityoflearning。Iaskedthemillerwhatwasmeantbythemonastery，andhetoldthatitwasthenameofabuildingtothenorth—eastnearthesea，whichhadoncebeenamonasterybuthadbeenconvertedintoafarm—house，thoughitstillretaineditsoriginalname。"Mayallmonasteriesbeconvertedintofarm—houses，"saidI，"andmaytheystillretaintheiroriginalnamesinmockeryofpopery！"

HavingseenallIcouldwellseeofthechurchanditsprecinctsI

departedwithmykindguide。Afterwehadretracedourstepssomeway，wecametosomestepping—stonesonthesideofawall，andthemillerpointingtothemsaid：

"ThenearestwaytothehouseofGronwywillbeoverthellamfa。"

Iwasnowbecomeashamedofkeepingtheworthyfellowfromhisbusiness，andbeggedhimtoreturntohismill。Herefusedtoleaveme，atfirst，butonmypressinghimtodoso，andonmytellinghimthatIcouldfindthewaytothehouseofGronwyverywellbymyself，heconsented。Weshookhands，themillerwishedmeluck，andbetookhimselftohismill，whilstIcrossedthellamfa。

Isoon，however，repentedhavingleftthepathbywhichIhadcome。

IwaspresentlyinamazeoflittlefieldswithstonewallsoverwhichIhadtoclamber。AtlastIgotintoalanewithastonewalloneachside。Amancametowardsmeandwasabouttopassme—hislookwasaverted，andhewasevidentlyoneofthosewhohave"noEnglish。"AWelshmanofhisdescriptionalwaysavertinghislookwhenheseesastrangerwhohethinkshas"noWelsh，"lestthestrangershouldaskhimaquestionandhebeobligedtoconfessthathehas"noEnglish。"

"IsthisthewaytoLlanfair？"saidItotheman。Themanmadeakindofrushinordertogetpastme。