第6章
Beyondthemarshthecountryishigher，andhasamuchlargerpopulation。Wepassedalonglineoftemporaryhuts，onaplainontherightbank，withcrowdsofmenandwomenhardatworkmakingsalt。Theyobtainitbymixingtheearth，whichisherehighlysaline，withwater，inapotwithasmallholeinit，andthenevaporatingtheliquid，whichrunsthrough，inthesun。Fromthenumberofwomenwesawcarryingitoffinbags，weconcludedthatvastquantitiesmustbemadeattheseworks。Itisworthobservingthatonsoilslikethis，containingsalt，thecottonisoflargerandfinerstaplethanelsewhere。WesawlargetractsofthisrichbrackishsoilbothintheShireandZambesivalleys，andhence，probably，sea-islandcottonwoulddowell；asingleplantofit，rearedbyMajorSicard，flourishedandproducedthelongstapleandpeculiartingeofthiscelebratedvariety，thoughplantedonlyinthestreetatTette；andtherealsoasaltefflorescenceappears，probablyfromdecompositionoftherock，offwhichthepeoplescrapeitforuse。
Thelargevillageofthechief，Mankokwe，occupiesasiteontherightbank；heownsanumberoffertileislands，andissaidtobetheRundo，orparamountchief，ofalargedistrict。Beingofanunhappysuspiciousdisposition，hewouldnotseeus；sowethoughtitbesttomoveon，ratherthanspendtimeinseekinghisfavour。
Onthe25thAugustwereachedDakanamoioisland，oppositetheperpendicularbluffonwhichChibisa"svillagestands；hehadgone，withmostofhispeople，toliveneartheZambesi，buthisheadmanwascivil，andpromisedusguidesandwhateverelseweneeded。Afewofthemenwerebusycleaning，sorting，spinning，andweavingcotton。
Thisisacommonsightinnearlyeveryvillage，andeachfamilyappearstohaveitspatchofcotton，asourownancestorsinScotlandhadeachhispatchofflax。Nearsunsetanimmenseflockofthelargespeciesofhorn-bill(Buceroscristatus)cameheretoroostonthegreattreeswhichskirttheedgeofthecliff。Theyleaveearlyinthemorning，oftenbeforesunrise，fortheirfeeding-places，comingandgoinginpairs。Theyareevidentlyofalovingdisposition，andstronglyattachedtoeachother，themalealwaysnestlingclosebesidehismate。Afinemalefelltotheground，fromfear，atthereportofDr。Kirk"sgun；itwascaughtandkeptonboard；thefemaledidnotgooffinthemorningstofeedwiththeothers，butflewroundtheship，anxiouslytrying，byherplaintivecalls，toinduceherbelovedonetofollowher:shecameagainintheeveningstorepeattheinvitations。Thepoordisconsolatecaptivesoonrefusedtoeat，andinfivedaysdiedofgrief，becausehecouldnothavehercompany。Nointernalinjurycouldbedetectedafterdeath。
Chibisaandhiswife，withanaturalshowofparentalfeeling，hadtoldtheDoctor，onhispreviousvisit，thatafewyearsbeforesomeofChisaka"smenhadkidnappedandsoldtheirlittledaughter，andthatshewasnowaslavetothepadreatTette。OnhisreturntoTette，theDoctortriedhardtoransomandrestorethegirltoherparents，andofferedtwicethevalueofaslave；thepadreseemedwilling，butshecouldnotbefound。Thispadrewasbetterthantheaveragemenofthecountry；and，beingalwayscivilandobliging，wouldprobablyhaverestoredhergratuitously，butshehadbeensold，itmightbetothedistanttribeBazizulu，orhecouldnottellwhere。Customhadrenderedhisfeelingscallous，andChibisahadtobetoldthathischildwouldneverreturn。ItisthiscallousstateofmindwhichleadssomeofourownbloodtoquoteScriptureinsupportofslavery。Ifwecouldaffordtotakeabackwardstepincivilization，wemightfindmenamongourselveswhowouldinlikemannerproveMormonismoranyotherenormitytobedivine。
Welefttheshiponthe28thofAugust，1859，forthediscoveryofLakeNyassa。Ourpartynumberedforty-twoinall——fourwhites，thirty-sixMakololo，andtwoguides。Wedidnotactuallyneedsomany，eitherforcarriageordefence；buttookthembecausewebelievedthat，humannaturebeingeverywherethesame，blacksareasreadyaswhitestotakeadvantageoftheweak，andareascivilandrespectfultothepowerful。Wearmedourmenwithmuskets，whichgaveusinfluence，althoughitdidnotaddmuchtoourstrength，asmostofthemenhadneverdrawnatrigger，andinanyconflictwouldinallprobabilityhavebeenmoredangeroustousthantheenemy。
Ourpathcrossedthevalley，inanorth-easterlydirection，upthecourseofabeautifulflowingstream。Manyofthegardenshadexcellentcottongrowinginthem。Anhour"smarchbroughtustothefootoftheManganjahills，upwhichlaythetoilsomeroad。Thevegetationsoonchanged；aswerosebamboosappeared，andnewtreesandplantsweremetwith，whichgavesuchincessantemploymenttoDr。
Kirk，thathetravelledthedistancethreetimesover。Remarkablyfinetrees，oneofwhichhasoil-yieldingseeds，andbelongstothemahoganyfamily，growwellinthehollowsalongtherivuletcourses。
Theascentbecameveryfatiguing，andweweregladofarest。
Lookingbackfromanelevationofathousandfeet，webeheldalovelyprospect。Theeyetakesinataglancethevalleybeneath，andthemanywindingsofitssilverstreamMakubula，orKubvula，fromtheshadyhill-side，whereitemergesinfoaminghaste，towhereitslowlyglidesintothetranquilShire；thentheShireitselfisseenformanyamileaboveandbelowChibisa"s，andthegreatlevelcountrybeyond，withitsnumerousgreenwoods；untiltheprospect，westandnorth-west，isboundedfarawaybymassesofpeakedanddome-shapedbluemountains，thatfringethehighlandsoftheMaravicountry。
AfterawearymarchwehaltedatMakolongwi，thevillageofChitimba。
ItstandsinawoodyhollowonthefirstofthethreeterracesoftheManganjahills，and，likeallotherManganjavillages，issurroundedbyanimpenetrablehedgeofpoisonouseuphorbia。Thistreecastsadeepshade，whichwouldrenderitdifficultforbowmentotakeaimatthevillagersinside。Thegrassdoesnotgrowbeneathit，andthismaybethereasonwhyitissouniversallyused，forwhendrythegrasswouldreadilyconveyfiretothehutsinside；moreover，thehedgeactsasafendertoallflyingsparks。Asstrangersarewonttodo，wesatdownundersomefinetreesneartheentranceofthevillage。Acoupleofmats，madeofsplitreeds，werespreadforthewhitementositon；andtheheadmanbroughtaseguati，orpresent，ofasmallgoatandabasketofmeal。Thefullvalueinbeadsandcottonclothwashandedtohiminreturn。Hemeasuredthecloth，doubledit，andthenmeasuredthatagain。Thebeadswerescrutinized；hehadneverseenbeadsofthatcolourbefore，andshouldliketoconsultwithhiscomradesbeforeacceptingthem，andthis，afterrepeatedexaminationsandmuchanxioustalk，heconcludedtodo。Mealandpeaswerethenbroughtforsale。Afathomofbluecottoncloth，afulldressformanorwoman，wasproduced。OurMakololoheadman，Sininyane，thinkingapartofitwasenoughforthemeal，wasproceedingtotearit，whenChitimbaremarkedthatitwasapitytocutsuchanicedressforhiswife，hewouldratherbringmoremeal。"Allright，"saidSininyane；"butlook，theclothisverywide，soseethatthebasketwhichcarriesthemealbewidetoo，andaddacocktomakethemealtastenicely。”Abrisktradesprangupatonce，eachbeingeagertoobtainasfinethingsashisneighbour，——
andallwereingoodhumour。Womenandgirlsbegantopoundandgrindmeal，andmenandboyschasedthescreamingfowlsoverthevillage，untiltheyranthemdown。Inafewhoursthemarketwascompletelygluttedwitheverysortofnativefood；theprices，however，rarelyfell，astheycouldeasilyeatwhatwasnotsold。
Wesleptunderthetrees，theairbeingpheasant，andnomosquitoesonthehills。Accordingtoourusualplanofmarching，byearlydawnourcampwasinmotion。Afteracupofcoffeeandabitofbiscuitwewereontheway。Theairwasdeliciouslycool，andthepathalittleeasierthanthatofyesterday。Wepassedanumberofvillages，occupyingverypicturesquespotsamongthehills，andinafewhoursgainedtheupperterrace，3000feetabovethelevelofthesea。TheplateaulieswestoftheMilanjemountains，anditsnorth-
easternborderslopesdowntoLakeShirwa。Wewereallcharmedwiththesplendidcountry，andlookedwithnever-failingdelightonitsfertileplains，itsnumeroushills，andmajesticmountains。Insomeofthepasseswesawbramble-berriesgrowing；andthemanyotherflowers，thoughofgreatbeauty，didnotremindusofyouthandofhomeliketheungainlythornybramble-bushes。Wewereaweekincrossingthehigh-landsinanortherlydirection；thenwedescendedintotheUpperShireValley，whichisnearly1200feetabovethelevelofthesea。Thisvalleyiswonderfullyfertile，andsupportsalargepopulation。Afterleavingthesomewhatflat-toppedsouthernportion，themostprominentmountainoftheZombarangeisNjongone，whichhasafinestreamrunningpastitsnorthernbase。Weweredetainedattheendofthechainsomedaysbyoneofourcompanionsbeinglaidupwithfever。Onenightweweresuddenlyarousedbybuffaloesrushingclosebythesick-bed。Wewereencampedbyawoodontheborderofamarsh，butourpatientsoonrecovered，notwithstandingtheunfavourablesituation，andthepooraccommodation。
TheManganjacountryisdelightfullywellwatered。Theclear，cool，gushingstreamsareverynumerous。Oncewepassedsevenfinebrooksandaspringinasinglehour，andthis，too，nearthecloseofthedryseason。MountZomba，whichistwentymileslong，andfrom7000
to8000feethigh，hasabeautifulstreamflowingthroughaverdantvalleyonitssummit，andrunningawaydownintoLakeShirwa。Thehighlandsarewellwooded，andmanytrees，admirablefortheirheightandtimber，growonthevariouswatercourses。"Isthiscountrygoodforcattle？"weinquiredofaMakololoherdsman，whoseoccupationhadgivenhimskillinpasturage。"Truly，"hereplied，"doyounotseeabundanceofthosegrasseswhichthecattlelove，andgetfatupon？"
Yetthepeoplehavebutfewgoats，andfewersheep。Withtheexceptionofanoccasionalleopard，therearenobeastsofpreytodisturbdomesticanimals。Wool-sheepwould，withoutdoubt，thriveonthesehighlands。PartoftheUpperShirevalleyhasaladyparamount，namedNyango；andinherdominionswomenrankhigherandreceivemorerespectfultreatmentthantheirsistersonthehills。
Thehillchief，Mongazi，calledhiswifetotakechargeofapresentwehadgivenhim。Shedroppeddownonherknees，clappingherhandsinreverence，beforeandafterreceivingourpresentsfromhislordlyhands。Itwaspainfultoseetheabjectmannerinwhichthewomenofthehilltribeskneltbesidethepathaswepassed；butagreatdifferencetookplacewhenwegotintoNyango"scountry。
Onenteringavillage，weproceeded，asallstrangersdo，atoncetotheBoalo:matsofsplitreedsorbamboowereusuallyspreadforustositon。Ourguidesthentoldthemenwhomightbethere，whowewere，whencewehadcome，whitherwewantedtogo，andwhatwereourobjects。Thisinformationwasdulycarriedtothechief，who，ifasensibleman，cameatonce；but，ifhehappenedtobetimidandsuspicious，waiteduntilhehaduseddivination，andhiswarriorshadtimetocomeinfromoutlyinghamlets。Whenhemakeshisappearance，allthepeoplebegintoclaptheirhandsinunison，andcontinuedoingsotillhesitsdownoppositetous。Hiscounsellorstaketheirplacesbesidehim。Hemakesaremarkortwo，andisthensilentforafewseconds。Ourguidesthensitdowninfrontofthechiefandhiscounsellors，andbothpartiesleanforward，lookingearnestlyateachother；thechiefrepeatsaword，suchas"Ambuiatu"
(ourFather，ormaster)——or"moio"(life)，andallclaptheirhands。
Anotherwordisfollowedbytwoclaps，athirdbystillmoreclapping，wheneachtouchesthegroundwithbothhandsplacedtogether。Thenallriseandleanforwardwithmeasuredclap，andsitdownagainwithclap，clap，clap，fainter，andstillfainter，tillthelastdiesaway，orisbroughttoanendbyasmartloudclapfromthechief。Theykeepperfecttimeinthisspeciesofcourtetiquette。Ourguidesnowtellthechief，ofteninblankverse，alltheyhavealreadytoldhispeople，withtheadditionperhapsoftheirownsuspicionsofthevisitors。Heaskssomequestions，andthenconverseswithusthroughtheguides。Directcommunicationbetweenthechiefandtheheadofthestrangerpartyisnotcustomary。Inapproachingtheyoftenaskwhoisthespokesman，andthespokesmanofthechiefaddressesthepersonindicatedexclusively。Thereisnolackofpunctiliousgoodmanners。Theaccustomedpresentsareexchangedwithcivilceremoniousness；untilourmen，weariedandhungry，callout，"Englishdonotbuyslaves，theybuyfood，"andthenthepeoplebringmeal，maize，fowls，batatas，yams，beans，beer，forsale。
TheManganjaareanindustriousrace；andinadditiontoworkinginiron，cotton，andbasket-making，theycultivatethesoilextensively。
Allthepeopleofavillageturnouttolabourinthefields。Itisnouncommonthingtoseemen，women，andchildrenhardatwork，withthebabylyingclosebybeneathashadybush。Whenanewpieceofwoodlandistobecleared，theyproceedexactlyasfarmersdoinAmerica。Thetreesarecutdownwiththeirlittleaxesofsoftnativeiron；trunksandbranchesarepiledupandburnt，andtheashesspreadonthesoil。Thecornisplantedamongthestandingstumpswhicharelefttorot。Ifgrasslandistobebroughtundercultivation，asmuchtallgrassasthelabourercanconvenientlylayholdofiscollectedtogetherandtiedintoaknot。Hethenstrikeshishoeroundthetuftstosevertheroots，andleavingallstanding，proceedsuntilthewholegroundassumestheappearanceofafieldcoveredwithlittleshocksofcorninharvest。Ashorttimebeforetherainsbegin，thesegrassshocksarecollectedinsmallheaps，coveredwithearth，andburnt，theashesandburntsoilbeingusedtofertilizetheground。Largecropsofthemapira，orEgyptiandura(Holcussorghum)，areraised，withmillet，beans，andground-nuts；
alsopatchesofyams，rice，pumpkins，cucumbers，cassava，sweetpotatoes，tobacco，andhemp，orbang(Cannabissetiva)。Maizeisgrownalltheyearround。Cottoniscultivatedatalmosteveryvillage。Threevarietiesofcottonhavebeenfoundinthecountry，namely，twoforeignandonenative。The"tonjemanga，"orforeigncotton，thenameshowingthatithasbeenintroduced，isofexcellentquality，andconsideredatManchestertobenearlyequaltothebestNewOrleans。Itisperennial，butrequiresreplantingonceinthreeyears。AconsiderableamountofthisvarietyisgrownintheUpperandLowerShirevalleys。Everyfamilyofanyimportanceownsacottonpatchwhich，fromtheentireabsenceofweeds，seemedtobecarefullycultivated。Mostweresmall，noneseenonthisjourneyexceedinghalfanacre；butontheformertripsomewereobservedofmorethantwicethatsize。
The"tonjecadja，"orindigenouscotton，isofshorterstaple，andfeelsinthehandlikewool。Thiskindhastobeplantedeveryseasoninthehighlands；yet，becauseitmakesstrongercloth，manyofthepeoplepreferittotheforeigncotton；thethirdvarietyisnotfoundhere。ItwasremarkedtoanumberofmenneartheShireLakelet，alittlefurtherontowardsNyassa，"Youshouldplantplentyofcotton，andprobablytheEnglishwillcomeandbuyit。”"Truly，"
repliedafar-travelledBabisatradertohisfellows，"thecountryisfullofcotton，andifthesepeoplecometobuytheywillenrichus。”
Ourownobservationonthecottoncultivatedconvincedusthatthiswasnoemptyflourish，butafact。Everywherewemetwithit，andscarcelyeverenteredavillagewithoutfindinganumberofmencleaning，spinning，andweaving。Itisfirstcarefullyseparatedfromtheseedbythefingers，orbyanironroller，onalittleblockofwood，androveoutintolongsoftbandswithouttwist。Thenitreceivesitsfirsttwistonthespindle，andbecomesaboutthethicknessofcoarsecandlewick；afterbeingtakenoffandwoundintoalargeball，itisgiventhefinalhardtwist，andspunintoafirmcoponthespindleagain:alltheprocessesbeingpainfullyslow。
Ironoreisdugoutofthehills，anditsmanufactureisthestapletradeofthesouthernhighlands。Eachvillagehasitssmelting-
house，itscharcoal-burners，andblacksmiths。Theymakegoodaxes，spears，needles，arrowheads，braceletsandanklets，which，consideringtheentireabsenceofmachinery，aresoldatsurprisinglylowrates；ahoeovertwopoundsinweightisexchangedforcalicoofaboutthevalueoffourpence。InvillagesnearLakeShirwaandelsewhere，theinhabitantsenterprettylargelyintothemanufactureofcrockery，orpottery，makingbyhandallsortsofcooking，water，andgrainpots，whichtheyornamentwithplumbagofoundinthehills。
Somefindemploymentinweavingneatbasketsfromsplitbamboos，andotherscollectthefibreofthebuaze，whichgrowsabundantlyonthehills，andmakeitintofish-nets。Thesetheyeitherusethemselves，orexchangewiththefishermenontheriverorlakesfordriedfishandsalt。Agreatdealofnativetradeiscarriedonbetweenthevillages，bymeansofbarterintobacco，salt，driedfish，skins，andiron。Manyofthemenareintelligent-looking，withwell-shapedheads，agreeablefaces，andhighforeheads。Wesoonlearnedtoforgetcolour，andwefrequentlysawcountenancesresemblingthoseofwhitepeoplewehadknowninEngland，whichbroughtbackthelooksofforgottenonesvividlybeforethemind。Thementakeagooddealofprideinthearrangementoftheirhair；thevarietiesofstyleareendless。Onetrainshislonglockstilltheytaketheadmiredformofthebuffalo"shorns；othersprefertolettheirhairhanginathickcoildowntheirbacks，likethatanimal"stail；whileanotherwearsitintwistedcords，which，stiffenedbyfilletsoftheinnerbarkofatreewoundspirallyroundeachcurl，radiatefromtheheadinalldirections。Somehaveithangingallroundtheshouldersinlargemasses；othersshaveitoffaltogether。Manyshavepartofitintoornamentalfigures，inwhichthefancyofthebarbercropsoutconspicuously。Aboutasmanydandiesruntoseedamongtheblacksasamongthewhites。TheManganjaadorntheirbodiesextravagantly，wearingringsontheirfingersandthumbs，besidesthroatlets，bracelets，andankletsofbrass，copper，oriron。Butthemostwonderfulofornaments，ifsuchitmaybecalled，isthepelele，orupper-lipringofthewomen。Themiddleoftheupperlipofthegirlsispiercedclosetotheseptumofthenose，andasmallpininsertedtopreventthepunctureclosingup。Afterithashealed，thepinistakenoutandalargeroneispressedintoitsplace，andsoonsuccessivelyforweeks，andmonths，andyears。Theprocessofincreasingthesizeofthelipgoesontillitscapacitybecomessogreatthataringoftwoinchesdiametercanbeintroducedwithease。
Allthehighlandwomenwearthepelele，anditiscommonontheUpperandLowerShire。Thepoorerclassesmakethemofholloworofsolidbamboo，butthewealthierofivoryortin。Thetinpeleleisoftenmadeintheformofasmalldish。Theivoryoneisnotunlikeanapkin-ring。Nowomaneverappearsinpublicwithoutthepelele，exceptintimesofmourningforthedead。Itisfrightfullyuglytoseetheupperlipprojectingtwoinchesbeyondthetipofthenose。
Whenanoldwearerofahollowbambooringsmiles，bytheactionofthemusclesofthecheeks，theringandlipoutsideitaredraggedbackandthrownabovetheeyebrows。Thenoseisseenthroughthemiddleofthering，amidtheexposedteethshowhowcarefullytheyhavebeenchippedtolooklikethoseofacatorcrocodile。Thepeleleofanoldlady，ChikandaKadze，achieftainess，abouttwentymilesnorthofMorambala，hungdownbelowherchin，with，ofcourse，apieceoftheupperliparounditsborder。Thelabialletterscannotbeproperlypronounced，buttheunderliphastodoitsbestforthem，againsttheupperteethandgum。Tellthemitmakesthemugly；theyhadbetterthrowitaway；theyreply，"Kodi!Really!itisthefashion。”Howthishideousfashionoriginatedisanenigma。
Canthicklipseverhavebeenthoughtbeautiful，andthismodeofartificialenlargementresortedtoinconsequence？Theconstanttwiddlingofthepelelewiththetonguebytheyoungerwomensuggestedtheirreverentideathatitmighthavebeeninventedtogivesafeemploymenttothatlittlemember。"Whydothewomenwearthesethings？"weinquiredoftheoldchief，Chinsunse。Evidentlysurprisedatsuchastupidquestion，hereplied，"Forbeauty，tobesure!Menhavebeardsandwhiskers；womenhavenone；andwhatkindofcreaturewouldawomanbewithoutwhiskers，andwithoutthepelele？Shewouldhaveamouthlikeaman，andnobeard；ha!ha!
ha!"AfterwardsontheRovuma，wefoundmenwearingthepelele，aswellaswomen。Anideasuggesteditselfonseeingtheeffectsoftheslightbutconstantpressureexertedontheuppergumandfrontteeth，ofwhichourmedicalbrethrenwilljudgethevalue。Inmanycasestheupperfrontteeth，insteadofthenaturalcurveoutwards，whichtherowpresents，hadbeenpressedsoastoappearasifthelineofalveoliinwhichtheywereplantedhadaninwardcurve。Asthiswasproducedbytheslightpressureofthepelelebackwards，personswithtooprominentteethmightbyslight，butlong-continuedpressure，bysomeapplianceonlyaselasticasthelip，havetheuppergumandteethdepressed，especiallyinyouth，moreeasilythanisusuallyimagined。Thepressureshouldbeappliedtotheuppergummorethantotheteeth。
TheManganjaarenotasoberpeople:theybrewlargequantitiesofbeer，andlikeitwell。Havingnohops，orothermeansofcheckingfermentation，theyareobligedtodrinkthewholebrewinafewdays，oritbecomesunfitforuse。Greatmerry-makingstakeplaceontheseoccasions，anddrinking，drumming，anddancingcontinuedayandnight，tillthebeerisgone。Incrossingthehillswesometimesfoundwholevillagesenjoyingthiskindofmirth。Theveterantravellerofthepartyremarked，thathehadnotseensomuchdrunkennessduringallthesixteenyearshehadspentinAfrica。Asweenteredavillageoneafternoon，notamanwastobeseen；butsomewomenweredrinkingbeerunderatree。Inafewmomentsthenativedoctor，oneoftheinnocents，"nobody"senemybuthisown，"
staggeredoutofahut，withhiscupping-horndanglingfromhisneck，andbegantoscoldusforabreachofetiquette。"Isthisthewaytocomeintoaman"svillage，withoutsendinghimwordthatyouarecoming？"Ourmensoonpacifiedthefuddledbutgood-humouredmedico，who，enteringhisbeer-cellar，calledontwoofthemtohelphimtocarryoutahugepotofbeer，whichhegenerouslypresentedtous。
Whilethe"medicalpractitioner"wasthushospitablyemployed，thechiefawokeinafright，andshoutedtothewomentorunaway，ortheywouldallbekilled。Theladieslaughedattheideaoftheirbeingabletorunaway，andremainedbesidethebeer-pots。Weselectedaspotforourcamp，ourmencookedthedinnerasusual，andwewerequietlyeatingit，whenscoresofarmedmen，streamingwithperspiration，camepouringintothevillage。Theylookedatus，thenateachother，andturningtothechiefupbraidedhimforsoneedlesslysendingforthem。"Thesepeoplearepeaceable；theydonothurtyou；youarekilledwithbeer:"sosaying，theyreturnedtotheirhomes。
Nativebeerhasapinkishcolour，andtheconsistencyofgruel。Thegrainismadetovegetate，driedinthesun，poundedintomeal，andgentlyboiled。Whenonlyadayortwoold，thebeerissweet，withaslightdegreeofacidity，whichrendersitamostgratefulbeverageinahotclimate，orwhenfeverbegetsasorecravingforaciddrinks。Asingledraughtofitsatisfiesthiscravingatonce。Onlybydeepandlong-continuedpotationscanintoxicationbeproduced:
thegrainbeinginaminutelydividedstate，itisagoodwayofconsumingit，andthedecoctionisverynutritious。AtTetteameasureofbeerisexchangedforanequal-sizedpotfullofgrain。A
presentofthisbeer，sorefreshingtoourdarkcomrades，wasbroughttousinnearlyeveryvillage。Beer-drinkingdoesnotappeartoproduceanydisease，ortoshortenlifeonthehills。Neverbeforedidweseesomanyold，grey-headedmenandwomen；leaningontheirstavestheycamewiththeotherstoseethewhitemen。Theagedchief，MuataManga，couldhardlyhavebeenlessthanninetyyearsofage；hisvenerableappearancestrucktheMakololo。"Heisanoldman，"saidthey，"averyoldman；hisskinhangsinwrinkles，justlikethatonelephants"hips。”"Didyounever，"hewasasked，"haveafitoftravellingcomeoveryou；adesiretoseeotherlandsandpeople？"No，hehadneverfeltthat，andhadneverbeenfarfromhomeinhislife。Forlonglifetheyarenotindebtedtofrequentablutions。Anoldmantoldusthatherememberedtohavewashedonceinhislife，butitwassolongsincethathehadforgottenhowitfelt。"Whydoyouwash？"askedChinsunse"swomenoftheMakololo；
"ourmenneverdo。”
Thesuperstitiousordeal，bydrinkingthepoisonousmuave，obtainscredithere；andwhenapersonissuspectedofcrime，thisordealisresortedto。Ifthestomachrejectsthepoison，theaccusedispronouncedinnocent；butifitisretained，guiltisbelievedtobedemonstrated。Theirfaithissofirminitsdiscriminatingpower，thatthesupposedcriminaloffersofhisownaccordtodrinkit，andevenchiefsarenotexempted。Chibisa，relyingonitsefficacy，drankitseveraltimes，inordertovindicatehischaracter。Whenassertingthatallhiswarshadbeenjust，itwashintedthat，aseverychiefhadthesametaleofinnocencetotell，weoughttosuspendourjudgment。"Ifyoudoubtmyword，"saidhe，"givemethemuavetodrink。”AchiefatthefootofMountZombasuccessfullywentthroughtheordealthedaywereachedhisvillage；andhispeoplemanifestedtheirjoyathisdeliverancebydrinkingbeer，dancing，anddrummingfortwodaysandnights。Itispossiblethatthenativedoctor，whomixestheingredientsofthepoisonedbowl，maybeabletosavethosewhomheconsidersinnocent；butitisdifficulttogetthenativestospeakaboutthematter，andnooneiswillingtotellwhatthemuavepoisonconsistsof。Wehavebeenshowntreessaidtobeused，buthadalwaysreasontodoubttheaccuracyofourinformants。Weoncefoundatreeinavillage，withmanypiecesofthebarkchippedoff，closelyalliedtotheTangenaorTanghina，theordealpoisontreeofMadagascar；butwecouldnotascertainanyparticularsaboutit。Deathisinflictedonthosefoundguiltyofwitchcraft，bythemuave。
Thewomenwailforthedeadtwodays。Seatedonthegroundtheychantafewplaintivewords，andendeachversewiththeprolongedsoundofa-a，oro-o，orea-ea-ea——a。Whateverbeerisinthehouseofthedeceased，ispouredoutonthegroundwiththemeal，andallcookingandwaterpotsarebroken，asbeingofnofurtheruse。Bothmenandwomenwearsignsofmourningfortheirdeadrelatives。Theseconsistofnarrowstripsofthepalm-leafwoundroundthehead，thearms，legs，neck，andbreasts，andworntilltheydropofffromdecay。Theybelieveintheexistenceofasupremebeing，calledMpambe，andalsoMorungo，andinafuturestate。"Weliveonlyafewdayshere，"saidoldChinsunse，"butweliveagainafterdeath:wedonotknowwhere，orinwhatcondition，orwithwhatcompanions，forthedeadneverreturntotellus。Sometimesthedeaddocomeback，andappeartousindreams；buttheyneverspeaknortelluswheretheyhavegone，norhowtheyfare。”