第7章

CHAPTERIV。

TheUpperShire——DiscoveryofLakeNyassa——Distressingexploration——

ReturntoZambesi——Unpleasantvisitors——StartforSekeletu"sCountryintheinterior。

OurpathfollowedtheShireabovethecataracts，whichisnowabroaddeepriver，withbutlittlecurrent。Itexpandsinoneplaceintoalakelet，calledPamalombe，fulloffinefish，andtenortwelvemileslongbyfiveorsixinbreadth。Itsbanksarelow，andadensewallofpapyrusencirclesit。Onitswesternshorerisesarangeofhillsrunningnorth。OnreachingthevillageofthechiefMuana-Moesi，andaboutaday"smarchdistantfromNyassa，weweretoldthatnolakehadeverbeenheardofthere；thattheRiverShirestretchedonaswesawitnowtoadistanceof"twomonths，"andthencameoutfrombetweenperpendicularrocks，whichtoweredalmosttotheskies。Ourmenlookedblankatthispieceofnews，andsaid，"Letusgobacktotheship，itisofnousetryingtofindthelake。”"Weshallgoandseethosewonderfulrocksatanyrate，"saidtheDoctor。"Andwhenyouseethem，"repliedMasakasa，"youwilljustwanttoseesomethingelse。ButthereISalake，"rejoinedMasakasa，"foralltheirdenyingit，foritisdowninabook。”Masakasa，havingunboundedfaithinwhateverwasinabook，wentandscoldedthenativesfortellinghimanuntruth。"Thereisalake，"saidhe，"forhowcouldthewhitemenknowaboutitinabookifitdidnotexist？"Theythenadmittedthattherewasalakeafewmilesoff。Subsequentinquiriesmakeitprobablethatthestoryofthe"perpendicularrocks"mayhavehadreferencetoafissure，knowntobothnativesandArabs，inthenorth-easternportionofthelake。Thewallsrisesohighthatthepathalongthebottomissaidtobeunderground。ItisprobablyacracksimilartothatwhichmadetheVictoriaFalls，andformedtheShireValley。

Thechiefbroughtasmallpresentofmealintheevening，andsatwithusforafewminutes。Onleavingushesaidthathewishedwemightsleepwell。Scarcehadhegone，whenawildsadcryarosefromtheriver，followedbytheshriekingofwomen。Acrocodilehadcarriedoffhisprincipalwife，asshewasbathing。TheMakololosnatcheduptheirarms，andrushedtothebank，butitwastoolate，shewasgone。Thewailingofthewomencontinuedallnight，andnextmorningwemetotherscomingtothevillagetojoininthegeneralmourning。Theirgriefwasevidentlyheartfelt，aswesawthetearscoursingdowntheircheeks。Inreportingthismisfortunetohisneighbours，Muana-Moesisaid，"thatwhitemencametohisvillage；

washedthemselvesattheplacewherehiswifedrewwaterandbathed；

rubbedthemselveswithawhitemedicine(soap)；andhiswife，havinggonetobatheafterwards，wastakenbyacrocodile；hedidnotknowwhetherinconsequenceofthemedicineusedornot。”Thiswecouldnotfindfaultwith。Onourreturnwewereviewedwithawe，andallthemenfledatourapproach；thewomenremained；andthiselicitedtheremarkfromourmen，"Thewomenhavetheadvantageofmen，innotneedingtodreadthespear。”Thepracticeofbathing，whichourfirstcontactwithChinsunse"speopleledustobelievewasunknowntothenatives，weafterwardsfoundtobecommoninotherpartsoftheManganjacountry。

WediscoveredLakeNyassaalittlebeforenoonofthe16thSeptember，1859。Itssouthernendisin14degrees25minutesS。Lat。，and35

degrees30minutesE。Long。Atthispointthevalleyisabouttwelvemileswide。Therearehillsonbothsidesofthelake，butthehazefromburninggrasspreventedusatthetimefromseeingfar。AlongtimeafterourreturnfromNyassa，wereceivedaletterfromCaptainR。B。Oldfield，R。N。，thencommandingH。M。S。"Lyra，"withtheinformationthatDr。Roscher，anenterprisingGermanwhounfortunatelylosthislifeinhiszealforexploration，hadalsoreachedtheLake，butonthe19thNovemberfollowingourdiscovery；

andonhisarrivalhadbeeninformedbythenativesthatapartyofwhitemenwereatthesouthernextremity。Oncomparingdates(16thSeptemberand19thNovember)wewereabouttwomonthsbeforeDr。

Roscher。

ItisnotknownwhereDr。Roscherfirstsawitswaters；astheexactpositionofNusseewaonthebordersoftheLake，wherehelivedsometime，isunknown。Hewasthreedaysnorth-eastofNusseewa，andontheArabroadbacktotheusualcrossing-placeoftheRovuma，whenhewasmurdered。Themurdererswereseizedbyoneofthechiefs，senttoZanzibar，andexecuted。Heissaidtohavekepthisdiscoveriestohimself，withtheintentionofpublishinginEuropethewholeatonce，inasplendidbookoftravels。

ThechiefofthevillageneartheconfluenceoftheLakeandRiverShire，anoldman，calledMosauka，hearingthatweweresittingunderatree，cameandkindlyinvitedustohisvillage。Hetookustoamagnificentbanyan-tree，ofwhichheseemedproud。Therootshadbeentraineddowntothegroundintotheformofagiganticarm-

chair，withouttheseat。Fourofussleptinthespacebetwixtitsarms。Mosaukabroughtusapresentofagoatandbasketofmeal"tocomfortourhearts。”Hetoldusthatalargeslaveparty，ledbyArabs，wereencampedcloseby。TheyhadbeenuptoCazembe"scountrythepastyear，andwereontheirwayback，withplentyofslaves，ivory，andmalachite。Inafewminuteshalfadozenoftheleaderscameovertoseeus。Theywerearmedwithlongmuskets，and，toourmind，wereavillanous-lookinglot。Theyevidentlythoughtthesameofus，fortheyofferedseveralyoungchildrenforsale，but，whentoldthatwewereEnglish，showedsignsoffear，anddecampedduringthenight。OnourreturntotheKongone，wefoundthatH。M。S。"Lynx"

hadcaughtsomeoftheseveryslavesinadhow；forawomantoldusshefirstsawusatMosauka"s，andthattheArabshadfledforfearofanUNCANNYsortofBasungu。

Thisisoneofthegreatslave-pathsfromtheinterior，otherscrosstheShirealittlebelow，andsomeonthelakeitself。Wemighthavereleasedtheseslavesbutdidnotknowwhattodowiththemafterwards。Onmeetingmen，ledinslave-sticks，theDoctorhadtobearthereproachesoftheMakololo，whoneverslave，"Ay，youcallusbad，butareweyellow-hearted，likethesefellows——whywon"tyouletuschokethem？"Toliberateandleavethem，wouldhavedonebutlittlegood，asthepeopleofthesurroundingvillageswouldsoonhaveseizedthem，andhavesoldthemagainintoslavery。TheManganjachiefsselltheirownpeople，forwemetAjawaandslave-

dealersinseveralhighlandvillages，whohadcertainlybeenencouragedtocomeamongthemforslaves。Thechiefsalwaysseemedashamedofthetraffic，andtriedtoexcusethemselves。"Wedonotsellmany，andonlythosewhohavecommittedcrimes。”Asaruletheregulartradeissuppliedbythelowandcriminalclasses，andhencetheuglinessofslaves。Othersareprobablysoldbesidescriminals，asontheaccusationofwitchcraft。Friendlessorphansalsosometimesdisappearsuddenly，andnooneinquireswhathasbecomeofthem。Thetemptationtoselltheirpeopleispeculiarlygreat，asthereisbutlittleivoryonthehills，andoftenthechiefhasnothingbuthumanfleshwithwhichtobuyforeigngoods。TheAjawaoffercloth，brassrings，pottery，andsometimeshandsomeyoungwomen，andagreetotakethetroubleofcarryingoffbynightallthosewhomthechiefmaypointouttothem。Theygivefouryardsofcottonclothforaman，threeforawoman，andtwoforaboyorgirl，tobetakentothePortugueseatMozambique，Iboe，andQuillimane。

TheManganjaweremoresuspiciousandlesshospitablethanthetribesontheZambesi。Theywereslowtobelievethatourobjectincomingintotheircountrywasreallywhatweprofessedittobe。Theynaturallyjudgeusbythemotiveswhichgovernthemselves。AchiefintheUpperShireValley，whosescaredlooksledourmentochristenhimKitlabolawa(Ishallbekilled)，remarkedthatpartieshadcomebefore，withasplausibleastoryasours，and，afterafewdays，hadjumpedupandcarriedoffanumberofhispeopleasslaves。Wewerenotallowedtoentersomeofthevillagesinthevalley，norwouldtheinhabitantsevensellusfood；Zimika"smen，forinstance，stoodattheentranceoftheeuphorbiahedge，anddeclaredweshouldnotpassin。Wesatdownunderatreecloseby。Ayoungfellowmadeanangryoration，dancingfromsidetosidewithhisbowandpoisonedarrows，andgesticulatingfiercelyinourfaces。Hewasstoppedinthemiddleofhisharanguebyanoldman，whoorderedhimtositdown，andnottalktostrangersinthatway；heobeyedreluctantly，scowlingdefiance，andthrustingouthislargelipsverysignificantly。Thewomenwereobservedleavingthevillage；and，suspectingthatmischiefmightensue，weproceededonourjourney，tothegreatdisgustofourmen。Theywereveryangrywiththenativesfortheirwantofhospitalitytostrangers，andwithus，becausewewouldnotallowthemtogive"thethingsathrashing。”"Thisiswhatcomesofgoingwithwhitemen，"theygrowledout；"hadwebeenwithourownchief，weshouldhaveeatentheirgoatsto-night，andhadsomeofthemselvestocarrythebundlesforusto-morrow。”Onourreturnbyapathwhichlefthisvillageonourright，Zimikasenttoapologize，sayingthat"hewasill，andinanothervillageatthetime；itwasnotbyhisordersweweresentaway；hismendidnotknowthatwewereapartywishingthelandtodwellinpeace。”

Wewerenotable，whenhasteningbacktothemenleftintheship，toremaininthevillagesbelongingtothischief；butthepeoplecameafteruswiththingsforsale，andinvitedustostop，andspendthenightwiththem，urging，"Arewetohaveitsaidthatwhitepeoplepassedthroughourcountryandwedidnotseethem？"Werestedbyarivulettogratifythesesight-seers。Weappeartothemtoberedratherthanwhite；and，thoughlightcolourisadmiredamongthemselves，ourclothingrendersusuncouthinaspect。Blueeyesappearsavage，andaredbeardhideous。Fromthenumbersofagedpersonswesawonthehighlands，andtheincreaseofmentalandphysicalvigourweexperiencedonourascentfromthelowlands，weinferredthattheclimatewassalubrious，andthatourcountrymenmightthereenjoygoodhealth，andalsobeofsignalbenefit，byleadingthemultitudeofindustriousinhabitantstocultivatecotton，buaze，sugar，andothervaluableproduce，toexchangeforgoodsofEuropeanmanufacture；atthesametimeteachingthem，bypreceptandexample，thegreattruthsofourHolyReligion。

OurstayattheLakewasnecessarilyshort。Wehadfoundthatthebestplanforallayinganysuspicions，thatmightariseinthemindsofapeopleaccustomedonlytoslave-traders，wastopayahastyvisit，andthenleaveforawhile，andallowtheconvictiontoformamongthepeoplethat，thoughourcourseofactionwassodifferentfromthatofothers，wewerenotdangerous，butratherdisposedtobefriendly。Wehadalsoapartyatthevessel，andanyindiscretionontheirpartmighthaveprovedfataltothecharacteroftheExpedition。

ThetradeofCazembeandKatanga"scountry，andofotherpartsoftheinterior，crossesNyassaandtheShire，onitswaytotheArabport，Kilwa，andthePortugueseportsofIboeandMozambique。Atpresent，slaves，ivory，malachite，andcopperornaments，aretheonlyarticlesofcommerce。AccordingtoinformationcollectedbyColonelRigbyatZanzibar，andfromothersources，nearlyalltheslavesshippedfromtheabove-mentionedportscomefromtheNyassadistrict。Bymeansofasmallsteamer，purchasingtheivoryoftheLakeandRiverabovethecataracts，whichtogetherhaveashore-lineofatleast600miles，theslave-tradeinthisquarterwouldberenderedunprofitable，——foritisonlybytheivorybeingcarriedbytheslaves，thatthelatterdonoteatupalltheprofitsofatrip。Aninfluencewouldbeexertedoveranenormousareaofcountry，fortheMazituaboutthenorthendoftheLakewillnotallowslave-traderstopassroundthatwaythroughtheircountry。TheywouldbemostefficientalliestotheEnglish，andmightthemselvesbebenefitedbymoreintercourse。

Asthingsarenow，thenativetradersinivoryandmalachitehavetosubmittoheavyexactions；andifwecouldgivethemthesamepriceswhichtheyatpresentgetaftercarryingtheirmerchandise300milesbeyondthistotheCoast，itmightinducethemtoreturnwithoutgoingfurther。Itisonlybycuttingoffthesuppliesintheinterior，thatwecancrushtheslave-tradeontheCoast。Theplanproposedwouldstoptheslave-tradefromtheZambesiononesideandKilwaontheother；andwouldleave，beyondthistract，onlythePortugueseportofInhambaneonthesouth，andaportionoftheSultanofZanzibar"sdominiononthenorth，forourcruiserstolookafter。TheLakepeoplegrowabundanceofcottonfortheirownconsumption，andcansellitforapennyapoundorevenless。

Water-carriageexistsbytheShireandZambesiallthewaytoEngland，withthesingleexceptionofaportageofaboutthirty-fivemilespasttheMurchisonCataracts，alongwhicharoadoflessthanfortymilescouldbemadeatatriflingexpense；anditseemsfeasiblethatalegitimateandthrivingtrademight，inashorttime，taketheplaceofthepresentunlawfultraffic。

ColonelRigby，CaptainsWilson，Oldfield，andChapman，andallthemostintelligentofficersontheCoast，wereunanimousinthebelief，thatonesmallvesselontheLakewouldhavedecidedlymoreinfluence，anddomoregoodinsuppressingtheslave-trade，thanhalfadozenmen-of-warontheocean。Byjudiciousoperations，therefore，onasmallscaleinland，littleexpensewouldbeincurred，andtheEnglishslave-tradepolicyontheEastwouldhavethesamefairchanceofsuccess，asontheWestCoast。

Afteraland-journeyoffortydays，wereturnedtotheshiponthe6thofOctober，1859，inasomewhatexhaustedcondition，arisingmorefromasortofpoisoning，thanfromtheusualfatigueoftravel。Wehadtakenalittlemulligatawneypaste，formakingsoup，incaseofwantoftimetocookotherfood。Lateoneafternoon，attheendofanunusuallylongmarch，wereachedMikena，nearthebaseofMountNjongonetothenorthofZomba，andthecookwasdirectedtouseacoupleofspoonfulsofthepaste；but，insteadofdoingso，heputinthewholepotful。Thesouptastedratherhot，butweaddedboiledricetoit，and，beingveryhungry，partookfreelyofit；and，inconsequenceoftheoverdose，weweredelayedseveraldaysinseveresuffering，andsomeofthepartydidnotrecovertillafterourreturntotheship。Ourillnessmaypartlyhavearisenfromanothercause。Onekindofcassava(Jatrophamaligna)isknowntobe，initsrawstate，poisonous，butbyboilingitcarefullyintwowaters，whichmustbethrownoff，thepoisonisextractedandthecassavarenderedfitforfood。Thepoisonoussortiseasilyknownbyraisingabitofthebarkoftheroot，andputtingthetonguetoit。A

bittertasteshowspoison，butitisprobablethateventhesweetkindcontainsaninjuriousprinciple。Thesap，which，likethatofourpotatoes，isinjuriousasanarticleoffood，isusedinthe"Pepper-pot"oftheWestIndies，underthenameof"Cassereep，"asaperfectpreservativeofmeat。ThisjuiceputintoanearthenvesselwithalittlewaterandChilipepperissaidtokeepmeat，thatisimmersedinit，goodforagreatlengthoftime；evenforyears。Noironorsteelmusttouchthemixture，oritwillbecomesour。This"Pepper-pot，"ofwhichwefirstheardfromthelateArchbishopWhately，isamosteconomicalmeat-safeinahotclimate；anybeef，mutton，pork，orfowlthatmaybeleftatdinner，ifputintothemixtureandalittlefreshcassereepadded，keepsperfectly，thoughotherwisetheheatoftheclimateorflieswouldspoilit。Ourcook，however，boiledthecassavarootashewasinthehabitofcookingmeat，namely，byfillingthepotwithit，andthenpouringinwater，whichheallowedtostandonthefireuntilithadbecomeabsorbedandboiledaway。Thismethoddidnotexpelthepoisonouspropertiesoftheroot，orrenderitwholesome；for，notwithstandingoursystematiccautioninpurchasingonlytheharmlesssort，wesuffereddailyfromitseffects，anditwasonlyjustbeforetheendofourtripthatthisperniciousmodeofboilingitwasdiscoveredbyus。

Inascending3000feetfromthelowlandstothehighlands，oronreachingthelowvalleyoftheShirefromthehighergrounds，thechangeofclimatewasverymarked。Theheatwasoppressivebelow，thethermometerstandingatfrom84degreesto103degreesintheshade；andourspiritswereasdullandlanguidastheyhadbeenexhilaratedontheheightsinatemperaturecoolerbysome20

degrees。Thewateroftheriverwassometimes84degreesorhigher，whilstthatwehadbeendrinkinginthehillstreamswasonly65

degrees。

ItwasfoundnecessarytosendtwoofournumberacrossfromtheShiretoTette；andDr。Kirk，withguidesfromChibisa，andaccompaniedbyMr。Rae，theengineer，accomplishedthejourney。Wehadfoundthecountrytothenorthandeastsoverywellwatered，thatnodifficultywasanticipatedinthisrespectinamarchoflessthanahundredmiles；butonthisoccasionourfriendssufferedseverely。Thelittlewatertobehadatthistimeoftheyear，bydigginginthebedsofdrywatercourses，wassobrackishastoincreasethirst——someofthenativesindeedweremakingsaltfromit；

andwhenatlongintervalsalessbrackishsupplywasfound，itwasnauseousandmuddyfromthefrequentvisitsoflargegame。Thetsetseabounded。Thecountrywaslevel，andlargetractsofitcoveredwithmopaneforest，theleavesofwhichaffordbutscantyshadetothebakedearth，sothatscarcelyanygrassgrowsuponit。

Thesunwassohot，thatthemenfrequentlyjumpedfromthepath，inthevainhopeofcooling，foramoment，theirscorchedfeetunderthealmostshadelessbushes；andthenativewhocarriedtheprovisionofsaltporkgotlost，andcameintoTettetwodaysaftertherestoftheparty，withnothingbutthefibreofthemeatleft，thefat，meltedbytheblazingsun，havingallrundownhisback。ThispathwassoonmadeahighwayforslavingpartiesbyCaptainRaposo，theCommandant。Thejourneynearlykilledourtwoactiveyoungfriends；

andwhattheslavesmusthavesincesufferedonitnoonecanconceive；butslavingprobablycanneverbeconductedwithoutenormoussufferingandlossoflife。

Mankokwenowsentamessagetosaythathewishedustostopathisvillageonourwaydown。Hecameonboardonourarrivaltherewithahandsomepresent，andsaidthathisyoungpeoplehaddissuadedhimfromvisitingusbefore；butnowhewasdeterminedtoseewhateveryoneelsewasseeing。Abaldsquare-headedman，whohadbeenhisPrimeMinisterwhenwecameup，wasnowoutofoffice，andanotheroldman，whohadtakenhisplaceaccompaniedthechief。InpassingtheElephantMarsh，wesawninelargeherdsofelephants；theysometimesformedalinetwomileslong。

Onthe2ndofNovemberweanchoredoffShamoara，andsenttheboattoSennaforbiscuitandotherprovisions。SenhorFerrao，withhiswontedgenerosity，gaveusapresentofabullock，whichhesenttousinacanoe。Wishingtoknowifasecondbullockwouldbeacceptabletous，heconsultedhisPortugueseandEnglishdictionary，andaskedthesailorinchargeifhewouldtakeANOTHER；butJack，mistakingthePortuguesepronunciationoftheletterh，replied，"Ohno，sir，thankyou，Idon"twantanOTTERintheboat，theyaresuchterriblebiters!"

Wehadtogroundthevesselonashallowsandbankeverynight；sheleakedsofast，thatindeepwatershewouldhavesunk，andthepumphadtobeworkedalldaytokeepherafloat。Heavyrainsfelldaily，producingtheusualinjuriouseffectsinthecabin；and，unabletowaitanylongerforourassociates，whohadgoneoverlandfromtheShiretoTette，werandowntheKongoneandbeachedherforrepairs。

HerMajesty"sship"Lynx，"Lieut。Berkeleycommanding，calledshortlyafterwardswithsupplies；thebar，whichhadbeenperfectlysmoothforsometimebefore，becameratherroughjustbeforeherarrival，sothatitwastwoorthreedaysbeforeshecouldcommunicatewithus。

Twoofherboatstriedtocomeinonthesecondday，andoneofthem，mistakingthepassage，capsizedintheheavybreakersabreastoftheisland。Mr。Hunt，gunner，theofficerinchargeofthesecondboat，behavednobly，andbyhisskilfulandgallantconductsucceededinrescuingeveryoneofthefirstboat"screw。Ofcoursethethingsthattheywerebringingtouswerelost，butwewerethankfulthatallthemenweresaved。Thelossofthemail-bags，containingGovernmentdespatchesandourfriends"lettersforthepastyear，wasfeltseverely，aswewereonthepointofstartingonanexpeditionintotheinterior，whichmightrequireeightorninemonths；andtwentymonthsisawearytimetobewithoutnewsoffriendsandfamily。Intherepairingofourcrazycraft，wereceivedkindandefficientaidfromLieutenantBerkeley，andwewereenabledtoleaveforTetteonDecember16th。

Wehadnowfrequentrains，andtheriverroseconsiderably；ourprogressupthestreamwasdistressinglyslow，anditwasnotuntilthe2ndofFebruary，1860，thatwereachedTette。Mr。Thorntonreturnedonthesamedayfromageologicaltour，bywhichsomePortugueseexpectedthatafabuloussilver-minewouldberediscovered。Thetraditioninthecountryis，thattheJesuitsformerlyknewandworkedapreciouslodeatChicova。Mr。ThorntonhadgonebeyondZumbo，incompanywithatraderofcolour；hesoonafterthislefttheZambesiand，joiningtheexpeditionoftheBaronvanderDecken，exploredthesnowmountainKilimanjaro，north-westofZanzibar。Mr。Thornton"scompanion，thetrader，broughtbackmuchivory，havingfounditbothabundantandcheap。Hewasobliged，however，topayheavyfinestotheBanyaiandothertribes，inthecountrywhichiscoollyclaimedinEuropeasPortuguese。Duringthistripofsixmouths200piecesofcottonclothofsixteenyardseach，besidesbeadsandbrasswire，werepaidtothedifferentchiefs，forleavetopassthroughtheircountry。Inadditiontothesesufficientlyweightyexactions，thenativesofTHISDOMINIONhavegotintothehabitofimposingfinesforallegedmilandos，orcrimes，whichthetraders"menmayhaveunwittinglycommitted。Themerchants，however，submitratherthanruntheriskoffighting。

ThegeneralmonotonyofexistenceatTetteissometimesrelievedbyanoccasionaldeathorwedding。Whenthedeceasedisapersonofconsequence，thequantityofgunpowderhisslavesareallowedtoexpendisenormous。Theexpensemay，inproportiontotheirmeans，resemblethatincurredbyfoolishlygaudyfuneralsinEngland。WhenatTette，wealwaysjoinedwithsympathizingheartsinaiding，byourpresenceatthelastrites，tosoothethesorrowsofthesurvivingrelatives。Wearesurethattheywouldhavedonethesametoushadwebeenthemourners。Weneverhadtocomplainofwantofhospitality。Indeed，thegreatkindnessshownbymanyofwhomwehaveoftenspoken，willneverbeeffacedfromourmemorytillourdyingday。Whenwespeakoftheirfailingsitisinsorrow，notinanger。Theirtradinginslavesisanenormousmistake。TheirGovernmentplacestheminafalsepositionbycuttingthemofffromtherestoftheworld；andofthistheyalwaysspeakwithabitternesswhich，wereitheard，mightalterthetoneofthestatesmenofLisbon。Butherethereisnopress，nobooksellers"

shops，andscarcelyaschoolmaster。Hadwebeenborninsimilaruntowardcircumstances——wetrembletothinkofit!

Theweddingsarecelebratedwithasmuchjollityasweddingsareanywhere。WewitnessedoneinthehouseofourfriendthePadre。Itbeingthemarriageofhisgoddaughter，hekindlyinvitedustobepartakersinhisjoy；andwetherebecameacquaintedwitholdDonnaEngenia，whowasamarriedwifeandhadchildren，whentheslavescamefromCassange，beforeanyofuswereborn。Thewholemerry-

makingwasmarkedbygoodtasteamidpropriety。

AbouttheonlyinterestingobjectinthevicinityofTetteisthecoalafewmilestothenorth。There，inthefeedersofthestreamRevubue，itcropsoutincliffsections。Theseamsarefromfourtosevenfeetinthickness；onemeasuredwasfoundtobetwenty-fivefeetthick。

LearningthatitwouldbedifficultforourpartytoobtainfoodbeyondKebrabasabeforethenewcropcameinandknowingthedifficultyofhuntingforsomanymeninthewetseason，wedecidedondeferringourdeparturefortheinterioruntilMay，andinthemeantimetorundownoncemoretotheKongone，inthehopesofreceivinglettersanddespatchesfromtheman-of-warthatwastocallinMarch。WeleftTetteonthe10th，andatSennaheardthatourlostmailhadbeenpickeduponthebeachbynatives，westoftheMilambe；carriedtoQuillimane，sentthencetoSenna，and，passingussomewhereontheriver，ontoTette。AtShupangathegovernorinformedusthatitwasaverylargemail；nogreatcomfort，seeingitwasawayuptheriver。

Mosquitoeswereexcessivelytroublesomeattheharbour，andespeciallywhenalightbreezeblewfromthenorthoverthemangroves。Welivedforseveralweeksinsmallhuts，builtbyourmen。Thosewhodidthehuntingforthepartyalwaysgotwet，andwereattackedbyfever，butgenerallyrecoveredintimetobeoutagainbeforethemeatwasallconsumed。Noshipappearing，westartedoffonthe15thofMarch，andstoppedtowoodontheLuabo，nearanencampmentofhippopotamushunters；ourmenheardagain，throughthem，ofthecanoepathfromthisplacetoQuillimane，buttheydeclinedtopointitout。

WefoundourfriendMajorSicardatMazarowithpicks，shovels，hurdles，andslaves，havingcometobuildafortandcustom-houseattheKongone。Aswehadnogoodreasontohidetheharbour，butmanyforitsbeingmadeknown，wesuppliedhimwithachartofthetortuousbranches，which，runningamongthemangroves，perplexthesearch；andwithsuchdirectionsaswouldenablehimtofindhiswaydowntotheriver。Hehadbroughttherelicsofourfugitivemail，anditwasadisappointmenttofindthatallhadbeenlost，withtheexceptionofabundleofoldnewspapers，twophotographs，andthreeletters，whichhadbeenwrittenbeforeweleftEngland。

ThedistancefromMazaro，ontheZambesiside，totheKwakwaatNterra，isaboutsixmiles，overasurprisinglyrichdarksoil。Wepassedthenightinthelongshed，erectedatNterra，onthebanksofthisriver，fortheuseoftravellers，whohaveoftentowaitseveraldaysforcanoes；wetriedtosleep，butthemosquitoesandratsweresotroublesomeastorendersleepimpossible。Therats，orratherlargemice，closelyresemblingMuspumilio(Smith)，ofthisregion，arequitefacetious，and，havingagreatdealoffuninthem，oftenlaughheartily。Againandagaintheywokeusupbyscamperingoverourfaces，andthenburstingintoaloudlaughofHe!he!he!athavingperformedthefeat。Theirsenseoftheludicrousappearstobeexquisite；theyscreamedwithlaughterattheattemptswhichdisturbedandangryhumannaturemadeinthedarktobringtheirill-