第9章
TheremainderoftheKebrabasapath，ontoChicova，wasclosetothecompressedandrockyriver。Rangesofloftytree-coveredmountains，withdeepnarrowvalleys，inwhicharedrywatercourses，orflowingrivulets，stretchfromthenorth-west，andareprolongedontheoppositesideoftheriverinasouth-easterlydirection。Lookingback，themountainsceneryinKebrabasawasmagnificent；conspicuousfromtheirformandsteepsides，arethetwogiganticportalsofthecataract；thevastforestsstillworetheirmanybrilliantautumnal-
colouredtintsofgreen，yellow，red，purple，andbrown，thrownintoreliefbythegreybarkofthetrunksinthebackground。Amongthesevariegatedtreesweresomeconspicuousfortheirnewliveryoffreshlight-greenleaves，asthoughthewinterofotherswastheirspring。
Thebrightsunshineinthesemountainforests，andtheever-changingformsofthecloudshadows，glidingoverportionsofthesurface，addedfreshcharmstoscenesalreadysurpassinglybeautiful。
FromwhatwehaveseenoftheKebrabasarocksandrapids，itappearstooevidentthattheymustalwaysformabarriertonavigationattheordinarylowwateroftheriver；buttheriseofthewaterinthisgorgebeingasmuchaseightyfeetperpendicularly，itisprobablethatasteamermightbetakenupathighflood，whenalltherapidsaresmoothedover，torunontheUpperZambesi。Themostformidablecataractinit，Morumbwa，hasonlyabouttwentyfeetoffall，inadistanceofthirtyyards，anditmustentirelydisappearwhenthewaterstandseightyfeethigher。ThoseoftheMakololowhoworkedonboardtheshipwerenotsorryatthesteamerbeingleftbelow，astheyhadbecomeheartilytiredofcuttingthewoodthattheinsatiablefurnaceofthe"Asthmatic"required。Mbia，whowasabitofawag，laughinglyexclaimedinbrokenEnglish，"Oh，Kebrabasagood，verygood；noletshippeeuptoSekeletu，toomucheework，cutteewoodyee，cutteewoodyee:Kebrabasagood。”Itiscurrentlyreported，andcommonlybelieved，thatonceuponatimeaPortuguesenamedJosePedra，——bythenativescalledNyamatimbira，——chief，orcapitaomor，ofZumbo，amanoflargeenterpriseandsmallhumanity，——
beinganxioustoascertainifKebrabasacouldbenavigated，madetwoslavesfasttoacanoe，andlauncheditfromChicovaintoKebrabasa，inordertoseeifitwouldcomeoutattheotherend。Asneitherslavesnorcanoeeverappearedagain，hisExcellencyconcludedthatKebrabasawasunnavigable。Atraderhadalargecanoesweptawaybyasuddenriseoftheriver，anditwasfoundwithoutdamagebelow；
butthemostsatisfactoryinformationwasthatofoldSandia，whoassertedthatinfloodallKebrabasabecamequitesmooth，andhehadoftenseenitso。
Weemergedfromthethirty-fiveorfortymilesofKebrabasahillsintotheChicovaplainsonthe7thofJune，1860，havingmadeshortmarchesalltheway。Thecoldnightscausedsomeofourmentocoughbadly，andcoldsinthiscountryalmostinvariablybecomefever。TheZambesisuddenlyexpandsatChicova，andassumesthesizeandappearanceithasatTette。Nearthispointwefoundalargeseamofcoalexposedintheleftbank。
Wemetwithnativetravellersoccasionally。Thoseonalongjourneycarrywiththemasleeping-matandwoodenpillow，cooking-potandbagofmeal，pipeandtobacco-pouch，aknife，bow，andarrows，andtwosmallsticks，offromtwotothreefeetinlength，formakingfire，whenobligedtosleepawayfromhumanhabitations。Drywoodisalwaysabundant，andtheygetfirebythefollowingmethod。Anotchiscutinoneofthesticks，which，withaclose-grainedoutside，hasasmallcoreofpith，andthisnotchedstickislaidhorizontallyonaknife-bladeontheground；theoperatorsquatting，placeshisgreattoesoneachendtokeepallsteady，andtakingtheotherwandwhichisofveryhardwoodcuttoabluntpoint，fitsitintothenotchatrightangles；theuprightwandismadetospinrapidlybackwardsandforwardsbetweenthepalmsofthehands，drillfashion，andatthesametimeispresseddownwards；thefriction，inthecourseofaminuteorso，ignitesportionsofthepithofthenotchedstick，which，rollingoverlikelivecharcoalontotheknife-blade，areliftedintoahandfuloffinedrygrass，andcarefullyblown，bywavingbackwardsandforwardsintheair。Itishardworkforthehandstoprocurefirebythisprocess，asthevigorousdrillinganddownwardpressurerequisitesoonblistersoftpalms。
Havingnowenteredacountrywherelionswerenumerous，ourmenbegantopaygreaterattentiontothearrangementsofthecampatnight。
Astheyareaccustomedtodowiththeirchiefs，theyplacethewhitemeninthecentre；Kanyata，hismen，andthetwodonkeys，camponourright；TubaMokoro"spartyofBashubiaareinfront；Masakasa，andSininyane"sbodyofBatoka，ontheleft；andintherearsixTettemenhavetheirfires。Inplacingtheirfirestheyarecarefultoputthemwherethesmokewillnotblowinourfaces。Soonafterwehalt，thespotfortheEnglishisselected，andallregulatetheirplacesaccordingly，anddeposittheirburdens。Thementakeitbyturnstocutsomeofthetalldrygrass，andspreaditforourbedsonaspot，eithernaturallylevel，orsmoothedbythehoe；some，appointedtocarryourbedding，thenbringourrugsandkarosses，andplacethethreerugsinarowonthegrass；Dr。Livingstone"sbeinginthemiddle，Dr。Kirk"sontheright，andCharlesLivingstone"sontheleft。Ourbags，rifles，andrevolversarecarefullyplacedatourheads，andafiremadenearourfeet。Wehavenotentnorcoveringofanykindexceptthebranchesofthetreeunderwhichwemayhappentolie；anditisaprettysighttolookupandseeeverybranch，leaf，andtwigofthetreestandout，reflectedagainsttheclearstar-spangledandmoonlitsky。Thestarsofthefirstmagnitudehavenameswhichconveythesamemeaningoververywidetractsofcountry。
HerewhenVenuscomesoutintheevenings，sheiscalledNtanda，theeldestorfirst-born，andManjika，thefirst-bornofmorning，atothertimes:shehassomuchradiancewhenshiningalone，thatshecastsashadow。SiriusisnamedKuewausiko，"drawerofnight，"
becausesupposedtodrawthewholenightafterit。Themoonhasnoevilinfluenceinthiscountry，sofarasweknow。Wehavelainandlookedupather，tillsweetsleepclosedoureyes，unharmed。Fourorfiveofourmenwereaffectedwithmoon-blindnessatTette；thoughtheyhadnotsleptoutofdoorsthere，theybecamesoblindthattheircomradeshadtoguidetheirhandstothegeneraldishoffood；
theaffectionisunknownintheirowncountry。Whenourposterityshallhavediscoveredwhatitiswhich，distinctfromfoulsmells，causesfever，andwhat，apartfromthemoon，causesmentobemoon-
struck，theywillpityourdulnessofperception。
Themencutaverysmallquantityofgrassforthemselves，andsleepinfumbasorsleeping-bags，whicharedoublematsofpalm-leaf，sixfeetlongbyfourwide，andsewntogetherroundthreepartsofthesquare，andleftopenonlyononeside。Theyareusedasaprotectionfromthecold，wet，andmosquitoes，andareenteredasweshouldgetintoourbeds，weretheblanketsnailedtothetop，bottom，andonesideofthebedstead。
Adozenfiresarenightlykindledinthecamp；andthese，beingreplenishedfromtimetotimebythemenwhoareawakenedbythecold，arekeptburninguntildaylight。Abundanceofdryhardwoodisobtainedwithlittletrouble；andburnsbeautifully。Afterthegreatbusinessofcookingandeatingisover，allsitroundthecamp-fires，andengageintalkingorsinging。EveryeveningoneoftheBatokaplayshis"sansa，"andcontinuesatituntilfarintothenight；heaccompaniesitwithanextemporesong，inwhichherehearsestheirdeedseversincetheylefttheirowncountry。Attimesanimatedpoliticaldiscussionsspringup，andtheamountofeloquenceexpendedontheseoccasionsisamazing。Thewholecampisaroused，andthemenshouttooneanotherfromthedifferentfires；whilstsome，whosetonguesareneverheardonanyothersubject，burstforthintoimpassionedspeech。
Asaspecimenofourmodeofmarching，weriseaboutfive，orassoonasdawnappears，takeacupofteaandabitofbiscuit；theservantsfolduptheblanketsandstowthemawayinthebagstheycarry；theotherstietheirfumbasandcooking-potstoeachendoftheircarrying-sticks，whichareborneontheshoulder；thecooksecuresthedishes，andallareonthepathbysunrise。Ifaconvenientspotcanbefoundwehaltforbreakfastaboutninea。m。Tosavetime，thismealisgenerallycookedthenightbefore，andhasonlytobewarmed。Wecontinuethemarchafterbreakfast，restalittleinthemiddleoftheday，andbreakoffearlyintheafternoon。Weaveragefromtwototwo-and-a-halfmilesanhourinastraightline，orasthecrowflies，andseldomhavemorethanfiveorsixhoursadayofactualtravel。Thisinahotclimateisasmuchasamancanaccomplishwithoutbeingoppressed；andwealwaystriedtomakeourprogressmoreapleasurethanatoil。Tohurryovertheground，abuse，andlookferociousatone"snativecompanions，merelyforthefoolishvanityofboastinghowquicklyadistancewasaccomplished，isacombinationofsillinesswithabsurdityquiteodious；whilekindlyconsiderationforthefeelingsofevenblacks，thepleasureofobservingsceneryandeverythingnewasonemovesonatanordinarypace，andtheparticipationinthemostdeliciousrestwithourfellows，rendertravellingdelightful。Thoughnotgiventooverhaste，wewerealittlesurprisedtofindthatwecouldtireourmenout；andeventheheadman，whocarriedbutlittlemorethanwedid，andnever，asweoftenhadtodo，huntedintheafternoon，wasnobetterthanhiscomrades。OurexperiencetendstoprovethattheEuropeanconstitutionhasapowerofendurance，eveninthetropics，greaterthanthatofthehardiestofthemeat-eatingAfricans。
Afterpitchingourcamp，oneortwoofususuallygoofftohunt，moreasamatterofnecessitythanofpleasure，forthemen，aswellasourselves，musthavemeat。Weprefertotakeamanwithustocarryhomethegame，orleadtheotherstowhereitlies；butastheyfrequentlygrumbleandcomplainofbeingtired，wedonotparticularlyobjecttogoingalone，exceptthatitinvolvestheextralabourofourmakingasecondtriptoshowthemenwheretheanimalthathasbeenshotistobefound。Whenitisacoupleofmilesoffitisratherfatiguingtohavetogotwice；moreespeciallyonthedayswhenitissolelytosupplytheirwantsthat，insteadofrestingourselves，wegoatall。Likethosewhoperformbenevolentdeedsathome，thetiredhunter，thoughtryinghardtoliveincharitywithallmen，isstronglytemptedtogiveitupbybringingonlysufficientmeatforthethreewhitesandleavingtherest；thussendingthe"idleungratefulpoor"supperlesstobed。Andyetitisonlybycontinuanceinwell-doing，eventothelengthofwhattheworldly-wisecallweakness，thattheconvictionisproducedanywhere，thatourmotivesarehighenoughtosecuresincererespect。
Ajungleofmimosa，ebony，and"wait-a-bit"thornliesbetweentheChicovaflatsandthecultivatedplain，onwhichstandthevillagesofthechief，Chitora。Hebroughtusapresentoffoodanddrink，because，ashe，withtheinnatepolitenessofanAfrican，said，he"didnotwishustosleephungry:hehadheardoftheDoctorwhenhepasseddown，andhadagreatdesiretoseeandconversewithhim；buthewasachildthen，andcouldnotspeakinthepresenceofgreatmen。HewasgladthathehadseentheEnglishnow，andwassorrythathispeoplewereaway，orheshouldhavemadethemcookforus。”
Allhissubsequentconductshowedhimtobesincere。
ManyoftheAfricanwomenareparticularaboutthewatertheyusefordrinkingandcooking，andpreferthatwhichisfilteredthroughsand。
Tosecurethis，theyscrapeholesinthesandbanksbesidethestream，andscoopupthewater，whichslowlyfiltersthrough，ratherthantakeitfromtheequallyclearandlimpidriver。ThispracticeiscommonintheZambesi，theRovuma，andLakeNyassa；andsomeofthePortugueseatTettehaveadoptedthenativecustom，andsendcanoestoalowislandinthemiddleoftheriverforwater。Chitora"speoplealsoobtainedtheirsupplyfromshallowwellsinthesandybedofasmallrivuletclosetothevillage。Thehabitmayhavearisenfromobservingtheunhealthinessofthemainstreamatcertainseasons。Duringnearlyninemonthsintheyear，ordureisdepositedaroundcountlessvillagesalongthethousandsofmilesdrainedbytheZambesi。Whentheheavyrainscomedown，andsweepthevastfetidaccumulationintothetorrents，thewaterispollutedwithfilth；
and，butfortheprecautionmentioned，thenativeswouldprovethemselvesaslittlefastidiousasthoseinLondonwhodrinktheabominationpouredintotheThamesbyReadingandOxford。ItisnowonderthatsailorssufferedsomuchfromfeverafterdrinkingAfricanriverwater，beforethepresentadmirablesystemofcondensingitwasadoptedinournavy。
Thescentofmanisexcessivelyterribletogameofallkinds，muchmoreso，probably，thanthesightofhim。Aherdofantelopes，ahundredyardsoff，gazedatusaswemovedalongthewindingpath，andtimidlystoodtheirgrounduntilhalfourlinehadpassed，butdartedofftheinstantthey"gotthewind，"orcaughttheflavourofthosewhohadgoneby。ThesportisallupwiththehunterwhogetstothewindwardoftheAfricanbeast，asitcannotstandeventhedistantaromaofthehumanrace，somuchdreadedbyallwildanimals。
Isthisthefearandthedreadofman，whichtheAlmightysaidtoNoahwastobeuponeverybeastofthefield？Alionmay，whilelyinginwaitforhisprey，leaponahumanbeingashewouldonanyotheranimal，savearhinocerosoranelephant，thathappenedtopass；oralioness，whenshehascubs，mightattackaman，who，passing"upthewindofher，"hadunconsciously，byhisscent，alarmedherforthesafetyofherwhelps；orbuffaloes，amidotheranimals，mightrushatalineoftravellers，inapprehensionofbeingsurroundedbythem；butneitherbeastnorsnakewill，asageneralrule，turnonmanexceptwhenwounded，orbymistake。Ifgorillas，unwounded，advancetodobattlewithhim，andbeattheirbreastsindefiance，theyareanexceptiontoallwildbeastsknowntous。Fromthewayanelephantrunsatthefirstglanceofman，itisinferredthatthishugebrute，thoughreallykingofbeasts，wouldrunevenfromachild。
Ourtwodonkeyscausedasmuchadmirationasthethreewhitemen。
Greatwastheastonishmentwhenoneofthedonkeysbegantobray。
Thetimidjumpedmorethanifalionhadroaredbesidethem。Allwerestartled，andstaredinmuteamazementattheharsh-voicedone，tillthelastbrokennotewasuttered；then，onbeingassuredthatnothinginparticularwasmeant，theylookedateachother，andburstintoaloudlaughattheircommonsurprise。Whenonedonkeystimulatedtheothertotryhisvocalpowers，theinterestfeltbythestartledvisitors，musthaveequalledthatoftheLondoners，whentheyfirstcrowdedtoseethefamoushippopotamus。
Wewerenow，whenwecrossedtheboundaryrivuletNyamatarara，outofChicovaandamongstsandstonerocks，similartothosewhichprevailbetweenLupataandKebrabasa。Inthelattergorge，asalreadymentioned，igneousandsyeniticmasseshavebeenactedonbysomegreatfieryconvulsionofnature；thestrataarethrownintoahuddledheapofconfusion。ThecoalhasofcoursedisappearedinKebrabasa，butisfoundagaininChicova。TettegreysandstoneiscommonaboutSinjere，andwhereveritisseenwithfossilwooduponit，coalliesbeneath；andhere，asatChicova，someseamscropoutonthebanksoftheZambesi。Lookingsouthwards，thecountryisopenplainandwoodland，withdetachedhillsandmountainsinthedistance；butthelatteraretoofaroff，thenativessay，forthemtoknowtheirnames。Theprincipalhillsonourright，aswelookupstream，arefromsixtotwelvemilesaway，andoccasionallytheysenddownspurstotheriver，withbrooksflowingthroughtheirnarrowvalleys。ThebanksoftheZambesishowtwowell-definedterraces；
thefirst，orlowest，beingusuallynarrow，andofgreatfertility，whiletheupperoneisadrygrassyplain，athornyjungle，oramopane(Bauhinia)forest。Oneoftheseplains，neartheKafue，iscoveredwiththelargestumpsandtrunksofapetrifiedforest。WehaltedacoupleofdaysbythefinestreamSinjere，whichcomesfromtheChiroby-robyhills，abouteightmilestothenorth。Manylumpsofcoal，broughtdownbytherapidcurrent，lieinitschannel。Thenativesneverseemtohavediscoveredthatcoalwouldburn，and，wheninformedofthefact，shooktheirheads，smiledincredulously，andsaid"Kodi"(really)，evidentlyregardingitasameretraveller"stale。Theywereastoundedtoseeitburningfreelyonourfireofwood。Theytoldusthatplentyofitwasseenamongthehills；but，beinglongagoawarethatwewerenowinanimmensecoalfield，wedidnotcaretoexamineitfurther。
Adykeofblackbasalticrock，calledKakolole，crossestherivernearthemouthoftheSinjere；butithastwoopengatewaysinitoffromsixtytoeightyyardsinbreadth，andthechannelisverydeep。
Onashallowsandbank，underthedyke，layaherdofhippopotamiinfanciedsecurity。Theyoungoneswereplayingwitheachotherlikeyoungpuppies，climbingonthebacksoftheirdams，tryingtotakeholdofoneanotherbythejawsandtumblingoverintothewater。
Mbia，oneoftheMakololo，wadedacrosstowithinadozenyardsofthedrowsybeasts，andshotthefatheroftheherd；who，beingveryfat，soonfloated，andwassecuredatthevillagebelow。Theheadmanofthevillagevisiteduswhilewewereatbreakfast。Heworeablack"ife"wigandaprintedshirt。AfterashortsilencehesaidtoMasakasa，"Youarewiththewhitepeople，sowhydoyounottellthemtogivemeacloth？""Wearestrangers，"answeredMasakasa，"whydoyounotbringussomefood？"Hetooktheplainhint，andbroughtustwofowls，inorderthatweshouldnotreportthatinpassinghimwegotnothingtoeat；and，asusual，wegaveaclothinreturn。Inreferencetothehippopotamushewouldmakenodemand，butsaidhewouldtakewhatwechosetogivehim。Themengorgedthemselveswithmeatfortwodays，andcutlargequantitiesintolongnarrowstrips，whichtheyhalf-driedandhalf-roastedonwoodenframesoverthefire。Muchgameistakeninthisneighbourhoodinpitfalls。Sharp-pointedstakesaresetinthebottom，onwhichthegametumblesandgetsimpaled。Thenativesarecarefultowarnstrangersofthesetraps，andalsoofthepoisonedbeamssuspendedonthetalltreesforthepurposeofkillingelephantsandhippopotami。
Itisnotdifficulttodetectthepitfallsafterone"sattentionhasbeencalledtothem；butinplaceswheretheyarecarefultocarrytheearthofftoadistance，andapersonisnotthinkingofsuchthings，asuddendescentofninefeetisanexperiencenoteasilyforgottenbythetraveller。Thesensationsofonethusinstantaneouslyswallowedupbytheeartharepeculiar。Amomentarysuspensionofconsciousnessisfollowedbytherustlingsoundofashowerofsandanddrygrass，andthehalf-bewilderedthoughtofwhereheis，andhowhecameintodarkness。Reasonawakestoassurehimthathemusthavecomedownthroughthatsmallopeningofdaylightoverhead，andthatheisnowwhereahippopotamusoughttohavebeen。Thedescentofahippopotamuspitfalliseasy，buttogetoutagainintotheupperairisaworkoflabour。Thesidesaresmoothandtreacherous，andthecrossreeds，whichsupportthecovering，breakintheattempttogetoutbyclutchingthem。Acryfromthedepthsisunheardbythosearound，anditisonlybyrepeatedandmostdesperateeffortsthattheburiedalivecanregaintheupperworld。AtTettewearetoldofawhitehunter，ofunusuallysmallstature，whoplumpedintoapitwhilestalkingaguinea-fowlonatree。Itwasthelabourofanentireforenoontogetout；andhewascongratulatinghimselfonhisescape，andbrushingofftheclayfromhisclothes，whendownhewentintoasecondpit，whichhappened，asisoftenthecase，tobeclosebesidethefirst，anditwaseveningbeforehecouldworkhimselfoutofTHAT。
Elephantsandbuffaloesseldomreturntotheriverbythesamepathontwosuccessivenights，theybecomesoapprehensiveofdangerfromthishumanart。Anoldelephantwillwalkinadvanceoftheherd，anduncoverthepitswithhistrunk，thattheothersmayseetheopeningsandtreadonfirmground。Femaleelephantsaregenerallythevictims:moretimidbynaturethanthemales，andverymotherlyintheiranxietyfortheircalves，theycarrytheirtrunksup，tryingeverybreezeforfancieddanger，whichofteninrealityliesattheirfeet。Thetusker，fearingless，keepshistrunkdown，and，warnedintimebythatexquisitelysensitiveorgan，takesheedtohisways。
OurcampontheSinjerestoodunderawide-spreadingwildfig-tree。
Fromthenumbersofthisfamily，oflargesize，dottedoverthecountry，thefigorbanyanspecieswouldseemtohavebeenheldsacredinAfricafromtheremotesttimes。Thesoilteemedwithwhiteants，whoseclaytunnels，formedtoscreenthemfromtheeyesofbirds，threadovertheground，upthetrunksoftrees，andalongthebranches，fromwhichthelittlearchitectsclearawayallrottenordeadwood。Veryoftentheexactshapeofbranchesisleftintunnelsonthegroundandnotabitofthewoodinside。Thefirstnightwepassedherethesedestructiveinsectsatethroughourgrass-beds，andattackedourblankets，andcertainlargered-headedonesevenbitourflesh。
Onsomedaysnotasinglewhiteantistobeseenabroad；andonothers，andduringcertainhours，theyappearoutofdoorsinmyriads，andworkwithextraordinaryzealandenergyincarryingbitsofdriedgrassdownintotheirnests。Duringthesebusyreaping-fitsthelizardsandbirdshaveagoodtimeofit，andenjoyarichfeastattheexpenseofthousandsofhaplessworkmen；andwhentheyswarmtheyarecaughtincountlessnumbersbythenatives，andtheirroastedbodiesarespokenofinanunctuousmannerasresemblinggrainsofsoftricefriedindeliciousfreshoil。
Astrongmaraudingpartyoflargeblackantsattackedanestofwhiteonesnearthecamp:asthecontesttookplacebeneaththesurface，wecouldnotseetheorderofthebattle；butitsoonbecameapparentthattheblackshadgainedtheday，andsackedthewhitetown，fortheyreturnedintriumph，bearingofftheeggs，andchoicebitsofthebodiesofthevanquished。Agift，analogoustothatoflanguage，hasnotbeenwithheldfromants:ifpartoftheirbuildingisdestroyed，anofficialisseencomingouttoexaminethedamage；and，afteracarefulsurveyoftheruins，hechirrupsafewclearanddistinctnotes，andacrowdofworkersbeginatoncetorepairthebreach。Whentheworkiscompleted，anotherorderisgiven，andtheworkmenretire，aswillappearonremovingthesoftfreshly-builtportion。Wetriedtosleeponerainymightinanativehut，butcouldnotbecauseofattacksbythefightingbattalionsofaverysmallspeciesofformica，notmorethanone-sixteenthofaninchinlength。Itsoonbecameobviousthattheywereunderregulardiscipline，andevenattemptingtocarryouttheskilfulplansandstratagemsofsomeeminentleader。Ourhandsandneckswerethefirstobjectsofattack。Largebodiesoftheselittlepestsweremassedinsilenceroundthepointtobeassaulted。Wecouldhearthesharpshrillwordofcommandtwoorthreetimesrepeated，thoughuntilthenwehadnotbelievedinthevocalpowerofanant；theinstantafterwefeltthestorminghostsrangeoverheadandneck，bitingthetenderskin，clingingwithadeath-griptothehair，andpartingwiththeirjawsratherthanquittheirhold。Onourlyingdownagaininthehopeoftheirhavingbeendrivenoff，nosoonerwasthelightout，andallstill，thanthemanoeuvrewasrepeated。Clearandaudibleorderswereissued，andtheassaultrenewed。ItwasashardtosleepinthathutasinthetrenchesbeforeSebastopol。Thewhiteant，beingavegetablefeeder，devoursarticlesofvegetableoriginonly，andleather，which，bytanning，isimbuedwithavegetableflavour。"Amanmayberichto-dayandpoorto-morrow，fromtheravagesofwhiteants，"saidaPortuguesemerchant。"Ifhegetssick，andunabletolookafterhisgoods，hisslavesneglectthem，andtheyaresoondestroyedbytheseinsects。”Thereddishant，inthewestcalleddrivers，crossedourpathdaily，insolidcolumnsaninchwide，andneverdidthepugnacityofeithermanorbeastexceedtheirs。Itisasufficientcauseofwarifyouonlyapproachthem，evenbyaccident。Someturnoutoftheranksandstandwithopenmandibles，or，chargingwithextendedjaws，bitewithsavageferocity。Whenhunting，welightedamongthemtoooften；
whilewewereintentonthegame，andwithoutathoughtofants，theyquietlycoveredusfromheadtofoot，thenallbegantobiteatthesameinstant；seizingapieceoftheskinwiththeirpowerfulpincers，theytwistedthemselvesroundwithit，asifdeterminedtotearitout。Theirbitesaresoterriblysharpthatthebravestmustrun，andthenstriptopickoffthosethatstillclingwiththeirhookedjaws，aswithsteelforceps。Thiskindaboundsindampplaces，andisusuallymetwithonthebanksofstreams。WehavenotheardoftheiractuallykillinganyanimalexceptthePython，andthatonlywhengorgedandquitelethargic，buttheysoonclearawayanydeadanimalmatter；thisappearstobetheirprincipalfood，andtheiruseintheeconomyofnatureisclearlyinthescavengerline。
WestartedfromtheSinjereonthe12thofJune，ourmencarryingwiththembundlesofhippopotamusmeatforsale，andforfutureuse。
WerestedforbreakfastoppositetheKakololedyke，whichconfinesthechannel，westoftheManyereremountain。Aroguemonkey，thelargestbyfarthatweeversaw，andveryfatandtame，walkedoffleisurelyfromagardenasweapproached。Themonkeyisasacredanimalinthisregion，andisnevermolestedorkilled，becausethepeoplebelievedevoutlythatthesoulsoftheirancestorsnowoccupythesedegradedforms，andanticipatethattheythemselvesmust，soonerorlater，betransformedinlikemanner；afutureascheerlessfortheblackasthespirit-rapper"sheavenisforthewhites。Thegardensareseparatedfromeachotherbyasinglerowofsmallstones，afewhandfulsofgrass，oraslightfurrowmadebythehoe。
Someareenclosedbyareedfenceoftheflimsiestconstruction，yetsufficienttokeepouttheeverwaryhippopotamus，whodreadsatrap。
Hisextremecautionistakenadvantageofbythewomen，whohang，asaminiaturetrap-beam，akigeliafruitwithabitofstickintheend。Thisprotectsthemaize，ofwhichheisexcessivelyfond。
Thequantityofhippopotamusmeateatenbyourmenmadesomeofthemill，andourmarcheswerenecessarilyshort。Afterthreehours"
travelonthe13th，wespenttheremainderofthedayatthevillageofChasiribera，onarivuletflowingthroughabeautifulvalleytothenorth，whichisboundedbymagnificentmountain-ranges。Pinkwe，orMbingwe，otherwiseMoeu，formsthesouth-easternangleoftherange。Onthe16thJunewewereattheflourishingvillageofSenga，undertheheadmanManyame，whichliesatthefootofthemountMotemwa。Nearlyallthemountainsinthiscountryarecoveredwithopenforestandgrass，incolour，accordingtotheseason，greenoryellow。Manyarebetween2000and3000feethigh，withtheskylinefringedwithtrees；therocksshowjustsufficientlyforonetoobservetheirstratification，ortheirgraniticform，andthoughnotcoveredwithdensemassesofclimbingplants，likethoseinmoistereasternclimates，thereisstilltheideaconveyedthatmostofthesteepsidesarefertile，andnonegivetheimpressionofthatbarrennesswhich，innorthernmountains，suggeststheideathatthebonesoftheworldarestickingthroughitsskin。
ThevillagersreportedthatwewereonthefootstepsofaPortuguesehalf-caste，who，atSenga，latelytriedtopurchaseivory，but，inconsequenceofhishavingmurderedachiefnearZumboandtwentyofhismen，thepeopledeclinedtotradewithhim。Hethreatenedtotaketheivorybyforce，iftheywouldnotsellit；butthatsamenighttheivoryandthewomenwerespiritedoutofthevillage，andonlyalargebodyofarmedmenremained。Thetrader，fearingthathemightcomeoffsecondbestifitcametoblows，immediatelydeparted。
Chikwanitsela，orSekuanangila，istheparamountchiefofsomefiftymilesofthenorthernbankoftheZambesiinthislocality。Helivesontheopposite，orsouthernside，andtherehisterritoryisstillmoreextensive。WesenthimapresentfromSenga，andwereinformedbyamessengernextmorningthathehadacoughandcouldnotcomeovertoseeus。"Andhashispresentacoughtoo，"remarkedoneofourparty，"thatitdoesnotcometous？Isthisthewayyourchieftreatsstrangers，receivestheirpresent，andsendsthemnofoodinreturn？"OurmenthoughtChikwanitselaanuncommonlystingyfellow；
but，asitwaspossiblethatsomeofthemmightyetwishtoreturnthisway，theydidnotliketoscoldhimmorethanthis，whichwassufficientlytothepoint。
MenandwomenwerebusilyengagedinpreparingthegroundfortheNovemberplanting。Largegamewasabundant；herdsofelephantsandbuffaloescamedowntotheriverinthenight，butwerealongwayoffbydaylight。Theysoonadoptthishabitinplaceswheretheyarehunted。
Theplainswetraveloverareconstantlyvaryinginbreadth，accordingasthefurrowedandwoodedhillsapproachorrecedefromtheriver。OnthesouthernsideweseethehillBungwe，andthelong，level，woodedridgeNyangombe，thefirstofaseriesbendingfromtheS。E。totheN。W。pasttheZambesi。Weshotanoldpallahonthe16th，andfoundthatthepooranimalhadbeenvisitedwithmorethantheusualshareofanimalafflictions。Hewasstone-blindinbotheyes，hadseveraltumours，andabrokenleg，whichshowednosymptomsofeverhavingbeguntoheal。Wildanimalssometimessufferagreatdealfromdisease，andwearilydragonamiserableexistencebeforerelievedofitbysomeravenousbeast。Oncewedroveoffamanelesslionandlionessfromadeadbuffalo，whichhadbeeninthelaststageofadecline。Theyhadwatchedhimstaggeringtotherivertoquenchhisthirst，andsprangonhimashewascrawlingupthebank。Onehadcaughthimbythethroat，andtheotherbyhishighprojectingbackbone，whichwasbrokenbythelion"spowerfulfangs。Thestruggle，ifany，musthavebeenshort。Theyhadonlyeatentheintestineswhenwefrightenedthemoff。Itiscuriousthatthisisthepartthatwildanimalsalwaysbeginwith，andthatitisalsothefirstchoiceofourmen。Wereitnotawisearrangementthatonlythestrongestmalesshouldcontinuethebreed，onecouldhardlyhelppityingthesolitarybuffaloexpelledfromtheherdforsomephysicalblemish，oronaccountoftheweaknessofapproachingoldage。Banishedfromfemalesociety，henaturallybecomesmoroseandsavage；thenecessarywatchfulnessagainstenemiesisnowneversharedbyothers；disgusted，hepassesintoastateofchronicwarwithallwhoenjoylife，andthesoonerafterhisexpulsionthathefillsthelion"sorthewild-dog"smaw，thebetterforhimselfandforthepeaceofthecountry。