第10章
Weencampedonthe20thofJuneataspotwhereDr。Livingstone，onhisjourneyfromtheWesttotheEastCoast，wasformerlymenacedbyachiefnamedMpende。Nooffencehadbeencommittedagainsthim，buthehadfirearms，and，withtheexpressobjectofshowinghispower，hethreatenedtoattackthestrangers。Mpende"scounsellorshaving，however，foundoutthatDr。Livingstonebelongedtoatribeofwhomtheyhadheardthat"theylovedtheblackmananddidnotmakeslaves，"hisconductatoncechangedfromenmitytokindness，and，astheplacewasonewellselectedfordefence，itwasperhapsquiteaswellforMpendethathedecidedashedid。Threeofhiscounsellorsnowvisitedus，andwegavethemahandsomepresentfortheirchief，whocamehimselfnextmorningandmadeusapresentofagoat，abasketofboiledmaize，andanotherofvetches。Afewmilesabovethistheheadman，ChilondoofNyamasusa，apologizedfornotformerlylendinguscanoes。"Hewasabsent，andhischildrenweretoblamefornottellinghimwhentheDoctorpassed；hedidnotrefusethecanoes。”Thesightofourmen，nowarmedwithmuskets，hadagreateffect。Withoutanybullying，firearmscommandrespect，andleadmentobereasonablewhomightotherwisefeeldisposedtobetroublesome。
Nothing，however，ourfracaswithMpendeexcepted，couldbemorepeacefulthanourpassagethroughthistractofcountryin1856。Wethenhadnothingtoexcitethecupidityofthepeople，andthemenmaintainedthemselves，eitherbysellingelephant"smeat，orbyexhibitingfeatsofforeigndancing。Mostofthepeoplewereverygenerousandfriendly；buttheBanyai，nearertoTettethanthis，stoppedourmarchwithathreateningwar-dance。Oneofourparty，terrifiedatthis，ranaway，aswethought，insane，andcouldnot，afterapainfulsearchofthreedays，befound。TheBanyai，evidentlytouchedbyourdistress，allowedustoproceed。ThroughamanweleftonanislandalittlebelowMpende"s，wesubsequentlylearnedthatpoorMonahenghadfledthither，andhadbeenmurderedbytheheadmanfornoreasonexceptthathewasdefenceless。Thisheadmanhadsincebecomeodioustohiscountrymen，andhadbeenputtodeathbythem。
Onthe23rdofJuneweenteredPangola"sprincipalvillage，whichisupwardsofamilefromtheriver。TheruinsofamudwallshowedthatarudeattempthadbeenmadetoimitatethePortuguesestyleofbuilding。Weestablishedourselvesunderastatelywildfig-tree，roundwhosetrunkwitchcraftmedicinehadbeentied，toprotectfromthievesthehoneyofthewildbees，whichhadtheirhiveinoneofthelimbs。Thisisacommondevice。Thecharm，orthemedicine，ispurchasedofthedicedoctors，andconsistsofastripofpalm-leafsmearedwithsomething，andadornedwithafewbitsofgrass，wood，orroots。Itistiedroundthetree，andisbelievedtohavethepowerofinflictingdiseaseanddeathonthethiefwhoclimbsoverit。Superstitionisthusnotwithoutitsusesincertainstatesofsociety；itpreventsmanycrimesandmisdemeanours，whichwouldoccurbutforthesalutaryfearthatitproduces。
Pangolaarrived，tipsyandtalkative——"Wearefriends，wearegreatfriends；Ihavebroughtyouabasketofgreenmaize——hereitis!"Wethankedhim，andhandedhimtwofathomsofcottoncloth，fourtimesthemarket-valueofhispresent。No，hewouldnottakesosmallapresent；hewantedadouble-barrelledrifle——oneofDixon"sbest。
"Wearefriends，youknow；weareallfriendstogether。”Butalthoughwewerewillingtoadmitthat，wecouldnotgivehimourbestrifle，sohewentoffinhighdudgeon。Earlynextmorning，aswewerecommencingDivineservice，Pangolareturned，sober。WeexplainedtohimthatwewishedtoworshipGod，andinvitedhimtoremain；heseemedfrightened，andretired:butafterserviceheagainimportunedusfortherifle。Itwasofnousetellinghimthatwehadalongjourneybeforeus，andneededittokillgameforourselves——"Hetoomustobtainmeatforhimselfandpeople，fortheysometimessufferedfromhunger。”Hethengotsulky，andhispeoplerefusedtosellfoodexceptatextravagantprices。Knowingthatwehadnothingtoeat，theyfeltsureofstarvingusintocompliance。
Buttwoofouryoungmen，havinggoneoffatsunrise，shotafinewater-buck，anddowncametheprovisionmarkettothelowerfigure；
theyevenbecameeagertosell，butourmenwereangrywiththemfortryingcompulsion，andwouldnotbuy。Blackgreedhadoutwitteditself，ashappensoftenwithwhitecupidity；andnotonlyheredidthetraitsofAfricansremindusofAnglo-Saxonselsewhere:thenotoriouslyreadyworld-widedispositiontotakeanunfairadvantageofaman"snecessitiesshowsthatthesamemeanmotivesareprettywidelydiffusedamongallraces。Itmaynotbegrantedthatthesamebloodflowsinallveins，orthatallhavedescendedfromthesamestock；butthetravellerhasnodoubtthat，practically，thewhiterogueandblackaremenandbrothers。
PangolaisthechildorvassalofMpende。SandiaandMpendearetheonlyindependentchiefsfromKebrabasatoZumbo，andbelongtothetribeManganja。ThecountrynorthofthemountainshereinsightfromtheZambesiiscalledSenga，anditsinhabitantsAsenga，orBasenga，butallappeartobeofthesamefamilyastherestoftheManganjaandMaravi。FormerlyalltheManganjawereunitedunderthegovernmentoftheirgreatchief，Undi，whoseempireextendedfromLakeShirwatotheRiverLoangwa；butafterUndi"sdeathitfelltopieces，andalargeportionofitontheZambesiwasabsorbedbytheirpowerfulsouthernneighbourstheBanyai。ThishasbeentheinevitablefateofeveryAfricanempirefromtimeimmemorial。A
chiefofmorethanordinaryabilityarisesand，subduingallhislesspowerfulneighbours，foundsakingdom，whichhegovernsmoreorlesswiselytillhedies。Hissuccessornothavingthetalentsoftheconquerorcannotretainthedominion，andsomeoftheablerunder-
chiefssetupforthemselves，and，inafewyears，theremembranceonlyoftheempireremains。This，whichmaybeconsideredasthenormalstateofAfricansociety，givesrisetofrequentanddesolatingwars，andthepeoplelonginvainforapowerabletomakealldwellinpeace。Inthislight，aEuropeancolonywouldbeconsideredbythenativesasaninestimableboontointertropicalAfrica。Thousandsofindustriousnativeswouldgladlysettleroundit，andengageinthatpeacefulpursuitofagricultureandtradeofwhichtheyaresofond，and，undistractedbywarsorrumoursofwars，mightlistentothepurifyingandennoblingtruthsofthegospelofJesusChrist。TheManganjaontheZambesi，liketheircountrymenontheShire，arefondofagriculture；and，inadditiontotheusualvarietiesoffood，cultivatetobaccoandcottoninquantitiesmorethanequaltotheirwants。Tothequestion，"WouldtheyworkforEuropeans？"anaffirmativeanswermaybegiven，
iftheEuropeansbelongtotheclasswhichcanpayareasonablepriceforlabour，andnottothatofadventurerswhowantemploymentforthemselves。AllwereparticularlywellclothedfromSandia"stoPangola"s；anditwasnoticedthatalltheclothwasofnativemanufacture，theproductoftheirownlooms。InSengaagreatdealofironisobtainedfromtheoreandmanufacturedverycleverly。
Asiscustomarywhenapartyofarmedstrangersvisitsthevillage，Pangolatooktheprecautionofsleepinginoneoftheoutlyinghamlets。Nooneeverknows，oratanyratewilltell，wherethechiefsleeps。Hecamenotnextmorning，sowewentourway；butinafewmomentswesawtherifle-lovingchiefapproachingwithsomearmedmen。Beforemeetingus，heleftthepathanddrewuphis"following"
underatree，expectingustohalt，andgivehimachanceofbotheringusagain；but，havingalreadyhadenoughofthat，weheldrighton:heseemeddumbfoundered，andcouldhardlybelievehisowneyes。Forafewsecondshewasspeechless，butatlastrecoveredsofarastobeabletosay，"YouarepassingPangola。DoyounotseePangola？"Mbiawasjustgoingbyatthetimewiththedonkey，and，proudofeveryopportunityofairinghissmallstockofEnglish，shoutedinreply，"Allright!thengeton。”"Click，click，click。”
Onthe26thJunewebreakfastedatZumbo，ontheleftbankoftheLoangwa，neartheruinsofsomeancientPortuguesehouses。TheLoangwawastoodeeptobeforded，andtherewerenocanoesonourside。Seeingtwosmallonesontheoppositeshore，nearafewrecentlyerectedhutsoftwohalf-castesfromTette，wehaltedfortheferry-mentocomeover。Fromtheirmovementsitwasevidentthattheywereinastateofrollickingdrunkenness。Havingawaterproofcloak，whichcouldbeinflatedintoatinyboat，wesentMantlanyaneacrossinit。Threehalf-intoxicatedslavesthenbroughtustheshakycanoes，whichwelashedtogetherandmannedwithourowncanoe-
men。Fivemenwereallthatwecouldcarryoveratatime；andafterfourtripshadbeenmadetheslavesbegantoclamourfordrink；notreceivingany，aswehadnonetogive，theygrewmoreinsolent，anddeclaredthatnotanothermanshouldcrossthatday。Sininyanewasremonstratingwiththem，whenaloadedmusketwaspresentedathimbyoneofthetrio。Inaninstantthegunwasoutoftherascal"shands，arattlingshowerofblowsfellonhisback，andhetookaninvoluntaryheaderintotheriver。Hecrawledupthebankasadandsoberman，andallthreeatoncetumbledfromtheheightofsaucyswaggertoalowdepthofslavishabjectness。Themusketwasfoundtohaveanenormouscharge，andmighthaveblownourmantopieces，butforthepromptitudewithwhichhiscompanionsadministeredjusticeinalawlessland。Wewereallferriedsafelyacrossby8
o"clockintheevening。
Inillustrationofwhattakesplacewherenogovernment，orlawexists，thetwohalf-castes，towhomthesemenbelonged，leftTette，withfourhundredslaves，armedwiththeoldSepoyBrownBess，tohuntelephantsandtradeinivory。Onourwayup，weheardfromnativesoftheirlawlessdeeds，andagain，onourwaydown，fromseveral，whohadbeeneyewitnessesoftheprincipalcrime，andallreportssubstantiallyagreed。Thestoryisasadone。AfterthetradersreachedZumbo，oneofthem，calledbythenativesSequasha，enteredintoaplotwiththedisaffectedheadman，Namakusuru，tokillhischief，Mpangwe，inorderthatNamakusurumightseizeuponthechieftainship；andforthemurderofMpangwethetraderagreedtoreceivetenlargetusksofivory。Sequasha，withapickedpartyofarmedslaves，wenttovisitMpangwewhoreceivedhimkindly，andtreatedhimwithallthehonourandhospitalityusuallyshowntodistinguishedstrangers，andthewomenbusiedthemselvesincookingthebestoftheirprovisionsfortherepasttobesetbeforehim。Ofthis，andalsoofthebeer，thehalf-castepartookheartily。MpangwewasthenaskedbySequashatoallowhismentofiretheirgunsinamusement。Innocentofanysuspicionoftreachery，andanxioustohearthereportoffirearms，Mpangweatoncegavehisconsent；andtheslavesroseandpouredamurderousvolleyintothemerrygroupofunsuspectingspectators，instantlykillingthechiefandtwentyofhispeople。Thesurvivorsfledinhorror。Thechildrenandyoungwomenwereseizedasslaves，andthevillagesacked。SequashasentthemessagetoNamakusuru:"Ihavekilledthelionthattroubledyou；comeandletustalkoverthematter。”Hecameandbroughttheivory。"No，"saidthehalf-caste，"letusdividetheland:"andhetookthelargershareforhimself，andcompelledthewould-beusurpertodeliveruphisbracelets，intokenofsubjectiononbecomingthechildorvassalofSequasha。TheseweresentintriumphtotheauthoritiesatTette。ThegovernorofQuillimanehadtoldusthathehadreceivedordersfromLisbontotakeadvantageofourpassingtore-establishZumbo；andaccordinglythesetradershadbuiltasmallstockadeontherichplainoftherightbankofLoangwa，amileabovethesiteoftheancientmissionchurchofZumbo，aspartoftheroyalpolicy。Thebloodshedwasquiteunnecessary，because，thelandatZumbohavingofoldbeenpurchased，thenativeswouldhavealwaysoftheirownaccordacknowledgedtherightthusacquired；theypointeditouttoDr。Livingstonein1856that，thoughtheywerecultivatingit，iswasnottheirs，butwhiteman"sland。Sequashaandhismatehadlefttheirivoryinchargeofsomeoftheirslaves，who，intheabsenceoftheirmasters，werenowhavingagaytimeofit，andgettingdrunkeverydaywiththeproduceofthesackedvillages。Theheadslavecameandbeggedforthemusketofthedelinquentferryman，whichwasreturned。HethoughthismasterdidperfectlyrighttokillMpangwe，whenaskedtodoitforthefeeoftentusks，andheevenjustifieditthus:"Ifamaninvitesyoutoeat，willyounotpartake？"
Wecontinuedourjourneyonthe28thofJune。Gamewasextremelyabundant，andthereweremanylions。Mbiadroveoneofffromhisfeastonawildpig，andappropriatedwhatremainedoftheporktohisownuse。Lionsareparticularlyfondofthefleshofwildpigsandzebras，andcontrivetokillalargenumberoftheseanimals。Intheafternoonwearrivedatthevillageofthefemalechief，Ma-
mburuma，butsheherselfwasnowlivingontheoppositesideoftheriver。Someofherpeoplecalled，andsaidshehadbeenfrightenedbyseeinghersonandotherchildrenkilledbySequasha，andhadfledtotheotherbank；butwhenherheartwashealed，shewouldreturnandliveinherownvillage，andamongherownpeople。Sheconstantlyinquiredoftheblacktraders，whocameuptheriver，iftheyhadanynewsofthewhitemanwhopassedwiththeoxen。"Hehasgonedownintothesea，"wastheirreply，"butwebelongtothesamepeople。”"Ohno；youneednottellmethat；hetakesnoslaves，butwishespeace:youarenotofhistribe。”Thisantislaverycharacterexcitessuchuniversalattention，thatanymissionarywhowinkedatthegiganticevilsinvolvedintheslave-tradewouldcertainlyfailtoproduceanygoodimpressiononthenativemind。
CHAPTERVI。
Illness——TheHoney-guide——Abundanceofgame——TheBaendapezi——TheBatoka。
Welefttheriverhere，andproceededupthevalleywhichleadstotheMburumaorMohangopass。Thenightswerecold，andonthe30thofJunethethermometerwasaslowas39degreesatsunrise。Wepassedthroughavillageoftwentylargehuts，whichSequashahadattackedonhisreturnfromthemurderofthechief，Mpangwe。Hecaughtthewomenandchildrenforslaves，andcarriedoffallthefood，exceptahugebasketofbran，whichthenativesarewonttosaveagainstatimeoffamine。Hisslaveshadbrokenallthewater-
potsandthemillstonesforgrindingmeal。
Thebuaze-treesandbamboosarenowseenonthehills；butthejujubeorzisyphus，whichhasevidentlybeenintroducedfromIndia，extendsnofurtheruptheriver。Wehadbeeneatingthisfruit，which，havingsomewhatthetasteofapples，thePortuguesecallMacaas，allthewayfromTette；andheretheywerelargerthanusual，thoughimmediatelybeyondtheyceasedtobefound。Nomango-treeeitheristobemetwithbeyondthispoint，becausethePortuguesetradersneverestablishedthemselvesanywherebeyondZumbo。Tsetsefliesaremorenumerousandtroublesomethanwehaveeverbeforefoundthem。
Theyaccompanyusonthemarch，oftenbuzzingroundourheadslikeaswarmofbees。Theyareverycunning，andwhenintendingtobite，alightsogentlythattheirpresenceisnotperceivedtilltheythrustintheirlance-likeproboscis。Thebiteisacute，butthepainisoverinamoment；itisfollowedbyalittleofthedisagreeableitchingofthemosquito"sbite。Thisflyinvariablykillsalldomesticanimalsexceptgoatsanddonkeys；manandthewildanimalsescape。Weourselveswereseverelybittenonthispass，andsowereourdonkeys，butneithersufferedfromanyaftereffects。
WaterisscarceintheMburumapass，exceptduringtherainyseason。
Wehoweverhaltedbesidesomefinespringsinthebedofthenowdryrivulet，Podebode，whichiscontinueddowntotheendofthepass，andyieldswateratintervalsinpools。HereweremainedacoupleofdaysinconsequenceofthesevereillnessofDr。Kirk。Hehadseveraltimesbeenattackedbyfever；andobservedthatwhenwewereonthecoolheightshewascomfortable，butwhenwehappenedtodescendfromahightoaloweraltitude，hefeltchilly，thoughthetemperatureinthelattercasewas25degreeshigherthanitwasabove；hehadbeentryingdifferentmedicinesofreputedefficacywithaviewtoascertainwhetherothercombinationsmightnotbesuperiortothepreparationwegenerallyused；inhaltingbythiswaterhesuddenlybecameblind，andunabletostandfromfaintness。
Themen，withgreatalacrity，preparedagrassybed，onwhichwelaidourcompanion，withthesadforebodingswhichonlythosewhohavetendedthesickinawildcountrycanrealize。Wefearedthatinexperimentinghehadover-druggedhimself；butwegavehimadoseofourfeverpills；onthethirddayherodetheoneofthetwodonkeysthatwouldallowitselftobemounted，andonthesixthhemarchedaswellasanyofus。Thiscaseismentionedinordertoillustratewhatwehaveoftenobserved，thatmovingthepatientfromplacetoplaceismostconducivetothecure；andthemorepluckamanhas——
thelesshegivesintothedisease——thelesslikelyheistodie。
SuppliedwithwaterbythepoolsinthePodebode，weagainjoinedtheZambesiattheconfluenceoftherivulet。Whenpassingthroughadrydistrictthenativehunterknowswheretoexpectwaterbytheanimalshesees。Thepresenceofthegemsbuck，duikerordiver，springbucks，orelephants，isnoproofthatwaterisnear；fortheseanimalsroamovervasttractsofcountry，andmaybemetscoresofmilesfromit。
Notso，however，thezebra，pallah，buffalo，andrhinoceros；theirspoorgivesassurancethatwaterisnotfaroff，astheyneverstrayanydistancefromitsneighbourhood。Butwhenamidstthesolemnstillnessofthewoods，thesingingofjoyousbirdsfallsupontheear，itiscertainthatwateriscloseathand。
Ourmeninhuntingcameonanimmenseherdofbuffaloes，quietlyrestinginthelongdrygrass，andbegantoblazeawayfuriouslyattheastonishedanimals。Inthewildexcitementofthehunt，whichheretoforehadbeenconductedwithspears，someforgottoloadwithball，and，firingawayvigorouslywithpowderonly，wonderedforthemomentthatthebuffaloesdidnotfall。Theslayeroftheyoungelephant，havingburiedhisfourbulletsinasmanybuffaloes，firedthreechargesofNo。1shothehadforkillingguinea-fowl。Thequaintremarksandmerrimentaftertheselittleadventuresseemedtothelistenerlikethepleasantprattleofchildren。MbiaandMantlanyane，however，killedonebuffaloeach；boththebeastswereinprimecondition；themeatwaslikereallyexcellentbeef，withasmackofvenison。Atroopofhungry，howlinghyenasalsothoughtthesavourtempting，astheyhungroundthecampatnight，anxioustopartakeofthefeast。Theyare，fortunately，arrantcowards，andneverattackeithermenorbeastsexcepttheycancatchthemasleep，sick，oratsomeotherdisadvantage。Withabrightfireatourfeettheirpresenceexcitesnouneasiness。Apieceofmeathungonatree，highenoughtomakehimjumptoreachit，andashortspear，withitshandlefirmlyplantedinthegroundbeneath，areusedasadevicetoinducethehyenatocommitsuicidebyimpalement。
Thehoney-guideisanextraordinarybird；howisitthateverymemberofitsfamilyhaslearnedthatallmen，whiteorblack，arefondofhoney？Theinstantthelittlefellowgetsaglimpseofaman，hehastenstogreethimwiththeheartyinvitationtocome，asMbiatranslatedit，toabees"hive，andtakesomehoney。Hefliesonintheproperdirection，perchesonatree，andlooksbacktoseeifyouarefollowing；thenontoanotherandanother，untilheguidesyoutothespot。Ifyoudonotaccepthisfirstinvitationhefollowsyouwithpressingimportunities，quiteasanxioustolurethestrangertothebees"hiveasotherbirdsaretodrawhimawayfromtheirownnest。Exceptwhileonthemarch，ourmenweresuretoaccepttheinvitation，andmanifestedthesamebyapeculiarresponsivewhistle，meaning，astheysaid，"Allright，goahead；wearecoming。”Thebirdneverdeceivedthem，butalwaysguidedthemtoahiveofbees，thoughsomehadbutlittlehoneyinstore。Hasthispeculiarhabitofthehoney-guideitsorigin，astheattachmentofdogs，infriendshipforman，orinloveforthesweetpickingsoftheplunderleftontheground？Self-interestaidinginpreservationfromdangerseemstobetheruleinmostcases，as，forinstance，inthebirdthatguardsthebuffaloandrhinoceros。Thegrassisoftensotallanddensethatonecouldgocloseuptotheseanimalsquiteunperceived；buttheguardianbird，sittingonthebeast，seestheapproachofdanger，flapsitswingsandscreams，whichcausesitsbulkychargetorushofffromafoehehasneitherseennorheard；
forhisrewardthevigilantlittlewatcherhasthepickoftheparasitesonhisfatfriend。Inothercasesachanceofescapemustbegivenevenbytheanimalitselftoitsprey；asintherattle-
snake，which，whenexcitedtostrike，cannotavoidusinghisrattle，anymorethanthecatcanresistcurlingitstailwhenexcitedinthechaseofamouse，orthecobracanrefrainfrominflatingthelooseskinoftheneckandextendingitlaterally，beforestrikingitspoisonfangsintoitsvictim。Therearemanysnakesinpartsofthispass；theybaskedinthewarmsunshine，butrustledoffthroughtheleavesasweapproached。Weobservedonemorningasmalloneofadeadlypoisonousspecies，namedKakone，onabushbythewayside，quietlyrestinginahorizontalposition，digestingalizardforbreakfast。Thoughopenlyinview，itscoloursandcurvessocloselyresembledasmallbranchthatsomefailedtoseeit，evenafterbeingaskediftheyperceivedanythingonthebush。Herealsooneofournumberhadaglanceatanotherspecies，rarelyseen，andwhoseswiftlightning-likemotionhasgivenrisetothenativeproverb，thatwhenamanseesthissnakehewillforthwithbecomearichman。
Wesleptneartheruinedvillageofthemurderedchief，Mpangwe，alovelyspot，withtheZambesiinfront，andextensivegardensbehind，backedbyasemicircleofhillsrecedinguptoloftymountains。Ourpathkeptthesemountainsonourright，andcrossedseveralstreamlets，whichseemedtobeperennial，andamongotherstheSelole，whichapparentlyflowspasttheprominentpeakChiarapela。
Theserivuletshaveoftenhumandwellingsontheirbanks；butthelandcanscarcelybesaidtobeoccupied。Thenumberofallsortsofgameincreaseswonderfullyeveryday。Asaspecimenofwhatmaybemetwithwheretherearenohumanhabitations，andwherenofirearmshavebeenintroduced，wemaymentionwhatattimeshasactuallybeenseenbyus。OnthemorningofJuly3rdaherdofelephantspassedwithinfiftyyardsofoursleeping-place，goingdowntotheriveralongthedrybedofarivulet。Startingafewminutesbeforethemainbody，wecomeuponlargeflocksofguinea-fowl，shootwhatmaybewantedfordinner，ornextmorning"sbreakfast，andleavetheminthepathtobepickedupbythecookandhismatesbehind。Asweproceed，francolinsofthreevarietiesrunacrossthepath，andhundredsofturtle-dovesrise，withgreatblatterofwing，andflyofftothetrees。Guinea-fowls，francolins，turtle-doves，ducks，andgeesearethegamebirdsofthisregion。Atsunriseaherdofpallahs，standinglikeaflockofsheep，allowthefirstmanofourlongIndianfiletoapproachwithinaboutfiftyyards；buthavingmeat，weletthemtrotoffleisurelyandunmolested。Soonafterwardswecomeuponaherdofwaterbucks，whichhereareverymuchdarkerincolour，anddrierinflesh，thanthesamespeciesnearthesea。Theylookatusandweatthem；andwepassontoseeaherdofdoekoodoos，withamagnificentlyhornedbuckortwo，hurryingofftothedryhill-sides。Wehaveceasedshootingantelopes，asourmenhavebeensooftengorgedwithmeatthattheyhavebecomefatanddainty。
Theysaythattheydonotwantmorevenison，itissodryandtasteless，andaskwhywedonotgivethemshottoshootthemoresavouryguinea-fowl。
Abouteighto"clockthetsetsecommencetobuzzaboutus，andbiteourhandsandneckssharply。Justaswearethinkingofbreakfast，wemeetsomebuffaloesgrazingbythepath；buttheymakeoffinaheavygallopatthesightofman。Wefire，andtheforemost，badlywounded，separatesfromtheherd，andisseentostopamongstthetrees；but，asitisamatterofgreatdangertofollowawoundedbuffalo，weholdonourway。Itisthislosingofwoundedanimalswhichmakesfirearmssoannihilatingtothesebeastsofthefield，andwillintimesweepthemallaway。ThesmallEnfieldbulletisworsethantheoldroundoneforthis。Itoftengoesthroughananimalwithoutkillinghim，andheafterwardsperishes，whenheisofnovaluetoman。Afterbreakfastwedrawnearapondofwater；acoupleofelephantsstandonitsbank，and，atarespectfuldistancebehindthesemonarchsofthewilderness，isseenaherdofzebras，andanotherofwaterbucks。Ongettingourwindtheroyalbeastsmakeoffatonce；butthezebrasremaintilltheforemostmaniswithineightyyardsofthem，whenoldandyoungcantergracefullyaway。Thezebrahasagreatdealofcuriosity；andthisisoftenfataltohim，forhehasthehabitofstoppingtolookatthehunter。Inthisparticularheistheexactoppositeofthediverantelope，whichrushesofflikethewind，andneverforamomentstopstolookbehind，afterhavingonceseenorsmeltdanger。Thefinestzebraoftheherdissometimesshot，ourmenhavingtakenasuddenfancytotheflesh，whichalldeclaretobethe"kingofgoodmeat。”Ontheplainsofshortgrassbetweenusandtherivermanyantelopesofdifferentspeciesarecalmlygrazing，orreposing。Wildpigsarecommon，andwalkabroadduringtheday；butaresoshyasseldomtoallowacloseapproach。Ontakingalarmtheyerecttheirslendertailsintheair，andtrotoffswiftlyinastraightline，keepingtheirbodiesassteadyasalocomotiveonarailroad。Amilebeyondthepoolthreecowbuffaloeswiththeircalvescomefromthewoods，andmoveoutintotheplain。Atroopofmonkeys，ontheedgeoftheforest，scamperbacktoitsdepthsonhearingtheloudsongofSingeleka，andoldsurlyfellows，catchingsightofthehumanparty，insultitwithaloudandangrybark。Earlyintheafternoonwemayseebuffaloesagain，orotheranimals。Wecamponthedryhigherground，after，ashashappened，drivingoffasolitaryelephant。Thenightsarewarmernow，andpossessnearlyasmuchofinterestandnoveltyasthedays。Anewworldawakesandcomesforth，morenumerous，ifwemayjudgebythenoiseitmakes，thanthatwhichisabroadbysunlight。Lionsandhyenasroararoundus，andsometimescomedisagreeablynear，thoughtheyhaveneverventuredintoourmidst。Strangebirdssingtheiragreeablesongs，whileothersscreamandcallharshlyasifinfearoranger。Marvellousinsect-soundsfallupontheear；one，saidbynativestoproceedfromalargebeetle，resemblesasuccessionofmeasuredmusicalblowsuponananvil，whilemanyothersareperfectlyindescribable。Alittlelemurwasonceseentoleapaboutfrombranchtobranchwiththeagilityofafrog；itchirrupedlikeabird，andisnotlargerthanarobinred-
breast。Reptiles，thoughnumerous，seldomtroubledus；onlytwomensufferedfromstings，andthatveryslightly，duringtheentirejourney，theonesupposedthathewasbittenbyasnake，andtheotherwasstungbyascorpion。
Grass-burninghasbegun，andisproducingthebluehazyatmosphereoftheAmericanIndiansummer，whichinWesternAfricaiscalledthe"smokes。”Milesoffireburnonthemountain-sidesintheevenings，butgooutduringthenight。Fromtheirheighttheyresembleabroadzigzaglineoffireintheheavens。
Wesleptonthenightofthe6thofJulyontheleftbankoftheChongwe，whichcomesthroughagapinthehillsonourright，andistwentyyardswide。AsmalltribeoftheBazizulu，fromthesouth，underDadanga，haverecentlysettledhereandbuiltavillage。Someoftheirhousesaresquare，andtheyseemtobeonfriendlytermswiththeBakoa，whoownthecountry。They，liketheothernatives，cultivatecotton，butofadifferentspeciesfromanywehaveyetseeninAfrica，thestaplebeingverylong，andthebolllargerthanwhatisusuallymetwith；theseedscohereasinthePernambucokind。
Theybroughttheseedwiththemfromtheirowncountry，thedistantmountainsofwhichinthesouth，stillinhabitedbytheirfellow-
countrymen，whopossessmuchcattleanduseshields，canbeseenfromthishighground。Thesepeopleprofesstobechildrenofthegreatparamountchief，Kwanyakarombe，whoissaidtobelordofalltheBazizulu。Thenameofthistribeisknowntogeographers，whoderivetheirinformationfromthePortuguese，astheMorusurus，andthehillsmentionedabovearesaidtohavebeenthecountryofChangamira，thewarrior-chiefofhistory，whomnoPortugueseeverdaredtoapproach。TheBazizuluseem，byreport，tobebravemountaineers；nearertheriver，theSidimainhabittheplains；justasonthenorthside，theBabimpeliveontheheights，abouttwodaysoff，andtheMakoaonorneartheriver。ThechiefoftheBazizuluwewerenowwithwashospitableandfriendly。Aherdofbuffaloescametramplingthroughthegardensandrousedupourmen；afeatthatroaringlionsseldomachieved。
Ourcoursenextdaypassedovertheupperterraceandthroughadensethornjungle。Travellingisalwaysdifficultwherethereisnopath，butitisevenmoreperplexingwheretheforestiscutupbymanygame-tracks。Herewegotseparatedfromoneanother，andarhinoceroswithangrysnortdashedatDr。Livingstoneashestoopedtopickupaspecimenofthewildfruitmorula；butshestrangelystoppedstock-stillwhenlessthanherownlengthdistant，andgavehimtimetoescape；abranchpulledouthiswatchasheran，andturninghalfroundtograspit，hegotadistantglanceofherandhercalfstillstandingontheselfsamespot，asifarrestedinthemiddleofherchargebyanunseenhand。Whenaboutfiftyyardsoff，thinkinghiscompanionsclosebehind，heshouted"Lookoutthere!"
whenoffsherushed，snortingloudly，inanotherdirection。TheDoctorusuallywentunarmedbeforethis，butneverafterwards。
AfineelandwasshotbyDr。Kirkthisafternoon，thefirstwehavekilled。Itwasinfirst-ratecondition，andremarkablyfat；butthemeat，thoughsotemptinginappearance，severelyderangedallwhopartookofitheartily，especiallythosewhoateofthefat。Nativeswholiveingamecountries，andareacquaintedwiththedifferentkindsofwildanimals，haveaprejudiceagainstthefatoftheeland，thepallah，thezebra，hippopotamus，andpig；theyneverrejectit，however，theclimatemakingthedesireforallanimalfoodverystrong；buttheyconsiderthatitcausesulcersandleprosy，whilethefatofsheepandofoxenneverproducesanybadeffects，unlesstheanimalisdiseased。
Onthemorningofthe9th，afterpassingfourvillages，webreakfastedatanoldfriend"s，Tombanyama，wholivesnowonthemainland，havingresignedthereedyisland，wherehewasfirstseen，tothebuffaloes，whichusedtotakehiscropsandshowfighttohismen。Hekeepsalargeflockoftamepigeons，andsomefinefatcapons，oneofwhichhegaveus，withabasketofmeal。Theyhaveplentyofsaltinthispartofthecountry，obtainingitfromtheplainsintheusualway。