第12章
H。Helmore，toplantthegospelatLinyanti，wereherefullyconfirmed。Severalofthemissionariesandtheirnativeattendants，fromKuruman，hadsuccumbedtothefever，andthesurvivorshadretiredsomeweeksbeforeourarrival。Weremainedthewholeofthe7thbesidethevillageoftheoldBatokachief，Moshobotwane，thestoutestmanwehaveseeninAfrica。ThecauseofourdelayherewasasevereattackoffeverinCharlesLivingstone。Hetookadoseofourfeverpills；wasbetteronthe8th，andmarchedthreehours；thenonthe9thmarchedeightmilestotheGreatFalls，andspenttherestofthedayinthefatiguingexerciseofsight-seeing。WewereintheverysamevalleyasLinyanti，andthiswasthesamefeverwhichtreated，orrathermaltreated，withonlyalittleDover"spowder，provedsofataltopoorHelmore；thesymptoms，too，wereidenticalwiththoseafterwardsdescribedbynon-medicalpersonsasthoseofpoison。
WegaveMoshobotwaneapresent，andaprettyplainexpositionofwhatwethoughtofhisbloodyforaysamonghisBatokabrethren。A
scoldingdoesmostgoodtotherecipient，whenputalongsidesomeobligingact。Hecertainlydidnottakeitill，aswasevidentfromwhathegaveusinreturn；whichconsistedofaliberalsupplyofmeal，milk，andanox。Hehasalargeherdofcattle，andatractoffinepasture-landonthebeautifulstreamLekone。Ahome-feelingcomesoverone，evenintheinteriorofAfrica，atseeingoncemorecattlegrazingpeacefullyinthemeadows。Thetsetseinhabitsthetreeswhichboundthepasture-landonthewest；so，shouldtheherdsmanforgethisduty，thecattlestrayingmightbeentirelylost。
Thewomenofthisvillageweremorenumerousthanthemen，theresultofthechief"smarauding。TheBatokowifeofSimacameupfromtheFalls，towelcomeherhusbandback，bringingapresentofthebestfruitsofthecountry。HerhusbandwastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadbroughtawifefromTette，namely，thegirlwhomheobtainedfromChisakaforhisfeatsofdancing。Accordingtoourideas，hisfirstwifecouldhardlyhavebeenpleasedatseeingthesecondandyoungerone；butshetookherawayhomewithher，whilethehusbandremainedwithus。IngoingdowntotheFallvillagewemetseveraloftherealMakololo。Theyarelighterincolourthantheothertribes，beingofarichwarmbrown；andtheyspeakinaslowdeliberatemanner，distinctlypronouncingeveryword。OnreachingthevillageoppositeKalai，wehadaninterviewwiththeMakololoheadman，Mashotlane:hecametotheshedinwhichwewereseated，alittleboycarryinghislowthree-leggedstoolbeforehim:onthishesatdownwithbecomingdignity，lookedroundhimforafewseconds，thenatus，and，salutinguswith"Rumela"(goodmorning，orhail)，hegaveussomeboiledhippopotamusmeat，tookapiecehimself，andthenhandedtheresttohisattendants，whosoonateitup。Hedefendedhisforaysonthegroundthat，whenhewenttocollecttribute，theBatokaattackedhim，andkilledsomeofhisattendants。TheexcusesmadefortheirlittlewarsareoftentheverysameasthosemadebyCaesarinhis"Commentaries。”Fewadmit，likeoldMoshobotwane，thattheyfoughtbecausetheyhadthepower，andafairprospectofconquering。WefoundherePitsane，whohadaccompaniedtheDoctortoSt。PauldeLoanda。HehadbeensentbySekeletutopurchasethreehorsesfromatradingpartyofGriquasfromKuruman，whochargedninelargetusksapieceforverywretchedanimals。
Intheevening，whenallwasstill，oneofourmen，Takelang，firedhismusket，andcriedout，"Iamweepingformywife:mycourtisdesolate:Ihavenohome；"andthenutteredaloudwailofanguish。
Weproceedednextmorning，9thAugust，1860，toseetheVictoriaFalls。Mosi-oa-tunyaistheMakololonameandmeanssmokesounding；
SeongoorChongwe，meaningtheRainbow，ortheplaceoftheRainbow，wasthemoreancienttermtheybore。Weembarkedincanoes，belongingtoTubaMokoro，"smasherofcanoes，"anominousname；buthealone，itseems，knewthemedicinewhichinsuresoneagainstshipwreckintherapidsabovetheFalls。Forsomemilestheriverwassmoothandtranquil，andweglidedpleasantlyoverwaterclearascrystal，andpastlovelyislandsdenselycoveredwithatropicalvegetation。NoticeableamongthemanytreesweretheloftyHyphaeneandBorassuspalms；thegracefulwilddate-palm，withitsfruitingoldenclusters，andtheumbrageousmokononga，ofcypressform，withitsdark-greenleavesandscarletfruit。Manyflowerspeepedoutnearthewater"sedge，someentirelynewtous，andothers，astheconvolvulus，oldacquaintances。
Butourattentionwasquicklycalledfromthecharmingislandstothedangerousrapids，downwhichTubamightunintentionallyshootus。Toconfessthetruth，theveryuglyaspectoftheseroaringrapidscouldscarcelyfailtocausesomeuneasinessinthemindsofnew-comers。
Itisonlywhentheriverisverylow，asitwasnow，thatanyonedurstventuretotheislandtowhichwewerebound。Ifonewentduringtheperiodofflood，andfortunatelyhittheisland，hewouldbeobligedtoremaintheretillthewatersubsidedagain，ifhelivedsolong。BothhippopotamiandelephantshavebeenknowntobesweptovertheFalls，andofcoursesmashedtopulp。
Beforeenteringtheraceofwaters，wewererequestednottospeak，asourtalkingmightdiminishthevirtueofthemedicine；andnoonewithsuchboilingeddyingrapidsbeforehiseyes，wouldthinkofdisobeyingtheordersofa"canoe-smasher。”ItsoonbecameevidentthattherewassoundsenseinthisrequestofTuba"s，althoughthereasonassignedwasnotunlikethatofthecanoe-manfromSesheke，whobeggedoneofourpartynottowhistle，becausewhistlingmadethewindcome。Itwasthedutyofthemanatthebowtolookoutaheadforthepropercourse，andwhenhesawarockorsnag，tocallouttothesteersman。Tubadoubtlessthoughtthattalkingonboardmightdiverttheattentionofhissteersman，atatimewhentheneglectofanorder，oraslightmistake，wouldbesuretospillusallintothechafingriver。Therewereplaceswheretheutmostexertionsofbothmenhadtobeputforthinordertoforcethecanoetotheonlysafepartoftherapid，andtopreventitfromsweepingdownbroadsideon，whereinatwinklingweshouldhavefoundourselvesflounderingamongtheplotusesandcormorants，whichwereengagedindivingfortheirbreakfastofsmallfish。Attimesitseemedasifnothingcouldsaveusfromdashinginourheadlongraceagainsttherockswhich，nowthattheriverwaslow，juttedoutofthewater；butjustattheverynickoftime，Tubapassedthewordtothesteersman，andthenwithreadypoleturnedthecanoealittleaside，andweglidedswiftlypastthethreateneddanger。Neverwascanoemoreadmirablymanaged:onceonlydidthemedicineseemtohavelostsomethingofitsefficacy。Weweredrivingswiftlydown，ablackrockoverwhichthewhitefoamflew，laydirectlyinourpath，thepolewasplantedagainstitasreadilyasever，butitslipped，justasTubaputforthhisstrengthtoturnthebowoff。Westruckhard，andwerehalf-fullofwaterinamoment；Tubarecoveredhimselfasspeedily，shovedoffthebow，andshotthecanoeintoastillshallowplace，tobaleoutthewater。Hereweweregiventounderstandthatitwasnotthemedicinewhichwasatfault；thathadlostnoneofitsvirtue；theaccidentwasowingentirelytoTubahavingstartedwithouthisbreakfast。NeeditbesaidweneverletTubagowithoutthatmealagain？
WelandedattheheadofGardenIsland，whichissituatednearthemiddleoftheriverandonthelipoftheFalls。Onreachingthatlip，andpeeringoverthegiddyheight，thewondrousanduniquecharacterofthemagnificentcascadeatonceburstuponus。
Itisratherahopelesstasktoendeavourtoconveyanideaofitinwords，since，aswasremarkedonthespot，anaccomplishedpainter，evenbyanumberofviews，couldbutimpartafaintimpressionofthegloriousscene。Theprobablemodeofitsformationmayperhapshelptotheconceptionofitspeculiarshape。Niagarahasbeenformedbyawearingbackoftherockoverwhichtheriverfalls；andduringalongcourseofages，ithasgraduallyreceded，andleftabroad，deep，andprettystraighttroughinfront。Itgoesonwearingbackdaily，andmayyetdischargethelakesfromwhichitsriver——theSt。
Lawrence——flows。ButtheVictoriaFallshavebeenformedbyacrackrightacrosstheriver，inthehard，black，basalticrockwhichthereformedthebedoftheZambesi。Thelipsofthecrackarestillquitesharp，saveaboutthreefeetoftheedgeoverwhichtheriverrolls。
Thewallsgosheerdownfromthelipswithoutanyprojectingcrag，orsymptomsofstratificationordislocation。Whenthemightyriftoccurred，nochangeofleveltookplaceinthetwopartsofthebedoftheriverthusrentasunder，consequently，incomingdowntherivertoGardenIsland，thewatersuddenlydisappears，andweseetheoppositesideofthecleft，withgrassandtreesgrowingwhereoncetheriverran，onthesamelevelasthatpartofitsbedonwhichwesail。Thefirstcrackis，inlength，afewyardsmorethanthebreadthoftheZambesi，whichbymeasurementwefoundtobealittleover1860yards，butthisnumberweresolvedtoretainasindicatingtheyearinwhichtheFallwasforthefirsttimecarefullyexamined。
Themainstreamhererunsnearlynorthandsouth，andthecleftacrossitisnearlyeastandwest。Thedepthoftheriftwasmeasuredbyloweringaline，totheendofwhichafewbulletsandafootofwhitecottonclothweretied。Oneofuslaywithhisheadoveraprojectingcrag，andwatchedthedescendingcalico，till，afterhiscompanionshadpaidout310feet，theweightrestedonaslopingprojection，probably50feetfromthewaterbelow，theactualbottombeingstillfurtherdown。Thewhiteclothnowappearedthesizeofacrown-piece。Onmeasuringthewidthofthisdeepcleftbysextant，itwasfoundatGardenIsland，itsnarrowestpart，tobeeightyyards，andatitsbroadestsomewhatmore。Intothischasm，oftwicethedepthofNiagara-fall，theriver，afullmilewide，rollswithadeafeningroar；andthisisMosi-oa-tunya，ortheVictoriaFalls。
LookingfromGardenIsland，downtothebottomoftheabyss，nearlyhalfamileofwater，whichhasfallenoverthatportionoftheFallstoourright，orwestofourpointofview，isseencollectedinanarrowchanneltwentyorthirtyyardswide，andflowingatexactlyrightanglestoitspreviouscourse，toourleft；whiletheotherhalf，orthatwhichfellovertheeasternportionoftheFalls，isseenintheleftofthenarrowchannelbelow，comingtowardsourright。Bothwatersunitemidway，inafearfulboilingwhirlpool，andfindanoutletbyacracksituatedatrightanglestothefissureoftheFalls。Thisoutletisabout1170yardsfromthewesternendofthechasm，andsome600fromitseasternend；thewhirlpoolisatitscommencement。TheZambesi，nowapparentlynotmorethantwentyorthirtyyardswide，rushesandsurgessouth，throughthenarrowescape-channelfor130yards；thenentersasecondchasmsomewhatdeeper，andnearlyparallelwiththefirst。Abandoningthebottomoftheeasternhalfofthissecondchasmtothegrowthoflargetrees，itturnssharplyofftothewest，andformsapromontory，withtheescape-channelatitspoint，of1170yardslong，and416yardsbroadatthebase。Afterreachingthisbase，theriverrunsabruptlyroundtheheadofanotherpromontory，andflowsawaytotheeast，inathirdchasm；thenglidesroundathirdpromontory，muchnarrowerthantherest，andawaybacktothewest，inafourthchasm；andwecouldseeinthedistancethatitappearedtoroundstillanotherpromontory，andbendoncemoreinanotherchasmtowardstheeast。Inthisgigantic，zigzag，yetnarrowtrough，therocksareallsosharplycutandangular，thattheideaatoncearisesthatthehardbasaltictrapmusthavebeenrivenintoitspresentshapebyaforceactingfrombeneath，andthatthisprobablytookplacewhentheancientinlandseaswereletoffbysimilarfissuresnearertheocean。
Thelandbeyond，oronthesouthoftheFalls，retains，asalreadyremarked，thesamelevelasbeforetherentwasmade。ItisasifthetroughbelowNiagarawerebentrightandleft，severaltimesbeforeitreachedtherailwaybridge。ThelandinthesupposedbendsbeingofthesameheightasthatabovetheFall，wouldgivestanding-
places，orpointsofview，ofthesamenatureasthatfromtherailway-bridge，butthenearestwouldbeonlyeightyyards，insteadoftwomiles(thedistancetothebridge)fromthefaceofthecascade。Thetopsofthepromontoriesareingeneralflat，smooth，andstuddedwithtrees。Thefirst，withitsbaseontheeast，isatoneplacesonarrow，thatitwouldbedangeroustowalktoitsextremity。Onthesecond，however，wefoundabroadrhinocerospathandahut；but，unlessthebuilderwereahermit，withapetrhinoceros，wecannotconceivewhatbeastormaneverwenttherefor。
Onreachingtheapexofthissecondeasternpromontorywesawthegreatriver，ofadeepsea-greencolour，nowsorelycompressed，glidingaway，atleast400feetbelowus。
GardenIsland，whentheriverislow，commandsthebestviewoftheGreatFallchasm，asalsoofthepromontoryopposite，withitsgroveoflargeevergreentrees，andbrilliantrainbowsofthree-quartersofacircle，two，three，andsometimesevenfourinnumber，restingonthefaceofthevastperpendicularrock，downwhichtinystreamsarealwaysrunningtobesweptagainbackbytheupwardrushingvapour。
Butas，atNiagara，onehastogoovertotheCanadianshoretoseethechiefwonder——theGreatHorse-shoeFall——soherewehavetocrossovertoMoselekatse"ssidetothepromontoryofevergreens，forthebestviewoftheprincipalFallsofMosi-oa-tunya。Beginning，therefore，atthebaseofthispromontory，andfacingtheCataract，atthewestendofthechasm，thereis，first，afallofthirty-sixyardsinbreadth，andofcourse，astheyallare，upwardsof310feetindepth。ThenBoaruka，asmallisland，intervenes，andnextcomesagreatfall，withabreadthof573yards；aprojectingrockseparatesthisfromasecondgrandfallof325yardsbroad；inall，upwardsof900yardsofperennialFalls。FurthereaststandsGardenIsland；
then，astheriverwasatitslowest，cameagooddealofthebarerockofitsbed，withascoreofnarrowfalls，which，atthetimeofflood，constituteoneenormouscascadeofnearlyanotherhalf-mile。
Neartheeastendofthechasmaretwolargerfalls，buttheyarenothingatlowwatercomparedtothosebetweentheislands。
Thewholebodyofwaterrollsclearover，quiteunbroken；but，afteradescentoftenormorefeet，theentiremasssuddenlybecomeslikeahugesheetofdrivensnow。Piecesofwaterleapoffitintheformofcometswithtailsstreamingbehind，tillthewholesnowysheetbecomesmyriadsofrushing，leaping，aqueouscomets。ThispeculiaritywasnotobservedbyCharlesLivingstoneatNiagara，andhereithappens，possiblyfromthedrynessoftheatmosphere，orwhateverthecausemaybewhichmakeseverydropofZambesiwaterappeartopossessasortofindividuality。Itrunsofftheendsofthepaddles，andglidesinbeadsalongthesmoothsurface，likedropsofquicksilveronatable。Hereweseetheminaconglomeration，eachwithatrainofpurewhitevapour，racingdowntilllostincloudsofspray。Astonedroppedinbecamelessandlesstotheeye，andatlastdisappearedinthedensemistbelow。
CharlesLivingstonehadseenNiagara，andgaveMosi-oa-tunyathepalm，thoughnowattheendofadrought，andtheriveratitsverylowest。ManyfeeladisappointmentonfirstseeingthegreatAmericanFalls，butMosi-oa-tunyaissostrange，itmustevercausewonder。Intheamountofwater，Niagaraprobablyexcels，thoughnotduringthemonthswhentheZambesiisinflood。Thevastbodyofwater，separatinginthecomet-likeformsdescribed，necessarilyenclosesinitsdescentalargevolumeofair，which，forcedintothecleft，toanunknowndepth，rebounds，andrushesuploadedwithvapourtoformthethreeorevensixcolumns，asifofsteam，visibleattheBatokavillageMoachemba，twenty-onemilesdistant。Onattainingaheightof200，oratmost300feetfromtheleveloftheriverabovethecascade，thisvapourbecomescondensedintoaperpetualshoweroffinerain。Muchofthespray，risingtothewestofGardenIsland，fallsonthegroveofevergreentreesopposite；andfromtheirleaves，heavydropsareforeverfalling，toformsundrylittlerills，which，inrunningdownthesteepfaceofrock，areblownoffandturnedback，orlickedofftheirperpendicularbed，upintothecolumnfromwhichtheyhavejustdescended。
Themorningsungildsthesecolumnsofwaterysmokewithalltheglowingcoloursofdoubleortreblerainbows。Theeveningsun，fromahotyellowsky，impartsasulphureoushue，andgivesonetheimpressionthattheyawninggulfmightresemblethemouthofthebottomlesspit。Nobirdsitsandsingsonthebranchesofthegroveofperpetualshowers，oreverbuildsitsnestthere。Wesawhornbillsandflocksoflittleblackweaversflyingacrossfromthemainlandtotheislands，andfromtheislandstothepointsofthepromontoriesandbackagain，buttheyuniformlyshunnedtheregionofperpetualrain，occupiedbytheevergreengrove。Thesunshine，elsewhereinthislandsooverpowering，neverpenetratesthedeepgloomofthatshade。InthepresenceofthestrangeMosi-oa-tunya，wecansympathizewiththosewho，whentheworldwasyoung，peopledearth，air，andriver，withbeingsnotofmortalform。Sacredtowhatdeitywouldbethisawfulchasmandthatdarkgrove，overwhichhoversanever-abiding"pillarofcloud"？
TheancientBatokachieftainsusedKazeruka，nowGardenIsland，andBoaruka，theislandfurtherwest，alsoonthelipoftheFalls，assacredspotsforworshippingtheDeity。Itisnowonderthatunderthecloudycolumns，andnearthebrilliantrainbows，withtheceaselessroarofthecataract，withtheperpetualflow，asifpouringforthfromthehandoftheAlmighty，theirsoulsshouldbefilledwithreverentialawe。Itinspiredwonderinthenativemindthroughouttheinterior。AmongthefirstquestionsaskedbySebituaneofMr。OswellandDr。Livingstone，in1851，was，"Haveyouanysmokesoundingsinyourcountry，"and"whatcausesthesmoketoriseforeversohighoutofwater？"Inthatyearitsfamewasheard200milesoff，anditwasapproachedwithintwodays；butitwasseenbynoEuropeantill1855，whenDr。LivingstonevisiteditonhiswaytotheEastCoast。BeingthenaccompaniedasfarasthisFallbySekeletuand200followers，hisstaywasnecessarilyshort；andthetwodaystherewereemployedinobservationsforfixingthegeographicalpositionoftheplace，andturningtheshowers，thatattimessweepfromthecolumnsofvapouracrosstheisland，toaccount，inteachingtheMakololoarboriculture，andmakingthatgardenfromwhichthenativesnamedtheisland；sothathedidnotvisittheoppositesidesofthecleft，norseethewonderfulcourseoftheriverbeyondtheFalls。Thehippopotamihaddestroyedthetreeswhichwerethenplanted；and，thoughastrongstockadedhedgewasmadeagain，andlivingorange-trees，cashew-nuts，andcoffeeseedsputinafresh，wefearthattheperseveranceofthehippopotamiwillovercometheobstacleofthehedge。ItwouldrequirearesidentmissionarytorearEuropeanfruit-trees。Theperiodatwhichthepeachandapricotcomeintoblossomisabouttheendofthedryseason，andartificialirrigationisnecessary。TheBatoka，theonlyarboriculturistsinthecountry，rearnativefruit-treesalone——themosibe，themotsikiri，theboma，andothers。Whenatribetakesaninterestintrees，itbecomesmoreattachedtothespotonwhichtheyareplanted，andtheyproveoneofthecivilizinginfluences。
WhereoneEnglishmangoes，othersaresuretofollow。Mr。Baldwin，agentlemanfromNatal，succeededinreachingtheFallsguidedbyhispocket-compassalone。OnmeetingthesecondsubjectofHerMajesty，whohadeverbeheldthegreatestofAfricanwonders，wefoundhimasortofprisoneratlarge。HehadcalledonMashotlanetoferryhimovertothenorthsideoftheriver，and，whennearlyover，hetookabath，byjumpinginandswimmingashore。"If，"saidMashotlane，"hehadbeendevouredbyoneofthecrocodileswhichaboundthere，theEnglishwouldhaveblamedusforhisdeath。Henearlyinflictedagreatinjuryuponus，therefore，wesaid，hemustpayafine。”AsMr。Baldwinhadnothingwithhimwherewithtopay，theyweretakingcareofhimtillheshouldreceivebeadsfromhiswagon，twodaysdistant。
Mashotlane"seducationhadbeenreceivedinthecampofSebituane，wherebutlittleregardwaspaidtohumanlife。Hewasnotyetinhisprime，andhisfineopencountenancepresentedtousnoindicationoftheevilinfluenceswhichunhappily，frominfancy，hadbeenatworkonhismind。Thenativeeyewasmorepenetratingthanours；fortheexpressionofourmenwas，"Hehasdrunkthebloodofmen——youmayseeitinhiseyes。”HemadenofurtherdifficultyaboutMr。Baldwin；buttheweekafterweleftheinflictedaseverewoundontheheadofoneofhiswiveswithhisrhinoceros-hornclub。
She，beingofagoodfamily，lefthim，andwesubsequentlymetherandanotherofhiswivesproceedingupthecountry。
ThegroundisstrewnwithagatesforanumberofmilesabovetheFalls；butthefires，whichburnoffthegrassyearly，haveinjuredmostofthoseonthesurface。Ourmenweredelightedtohearthattheydoaswellasflintsformuskets；andthiswiththenewideasofthevalueofgold(dalama)andmalachite，thattheyhadacquiredatTette，madethemconceivethatwewerenotaltogethersillyinpickingupandlookingatstones。
Marchinguptheriver，wecrossedtheLekoneatitsconfluence，abouteightmilesabovetheislandKalai，andwentontoavillageoppositetheIslandChundu。Nambowe，theheadman，isoneoftheMatebeleorZulus，whohavehadtofleefromtheangerofMoselekatse，totakerefugewiththeMakololo。
WespentSunday，the12th，atthevillageofMolele，atalloldBatoka，whowasproudofhavingformerlybeenagreatfavouritewithSebituane。Incominghitherwepassedthroughpatchesofforestaboundinginallsortsofgame。Theelephants"tusks，placedovergraves，arenowallowedtodecay，andtheskulls，whichtheformerBatokastuckonpolestoornamenttheirvillages，notbeingrenewed，nowcrumbleintodust。Herethefamine，ofwhichwehadheard，becameapparent，Molele"speoplebeingemployedindiggingupthetsitlarootoutofthemarshes，andcuttingoutthesoftcoreoftheyoungpalm-trees，forfood。
Thevillage，situatedonthesideofawoodedridge，commandsanextensiveviewofagreatexpanseofmeadowandmarshlyingalongthebankoftheriver。Ontheseholmesherdsofbuffaloesandwaterbucksdailygrazeinsecurity，astheyhaveinthereedymarshesarefugeintowhichtheycanrunontheapproachofdanger。Theprettylittletianyaneorourebiisabundantfurtheron，andherdsofblueweldebeestsorbrindledgnus(KatoblepasGorgon)amusedusbytheirfantasticcapers。Theypresentamuchmoreferociousaspectthanthelionhimself，butarequitetimid。Wenevercould，bywavingaredhandkerchief，accordingtotheprescription，inducethemtoventureneartous。Itmaythereforebethattheredcolourexcitestheirfuryonlywhenwoundedorhotlypursued。Herdsoflecheeorlechwenowenliventhemeadows；andtheyandtheiryoungerbrother，thegracefulpoku，smaller，andofaroundercontour，racetogethertowardsthegrassyfens。WeventuretocallthepokuafterthelateMajorVardon，anoble-heartedAfricantraveller；butfullyanticipatethatsomeaspiringNimrodwillpreferthathisownnameshouldgodowntoposterityonthebackofthisbuck。
MidwaybetweenTabacheuandtheGreatFallsthestreamsbegintoflowwestward。Ontheothersidetheybegintofloweast。Largeroundmassesofgranite，somewhatlikeoldcastles，toweraloftabouttheKalomo。Thecountryisanelevatedplateau，andourmenknewandnamedthedifferentplainsaswepassedthemby。
Onthe13thwemetapartyfromSekeletu，whowasnowatSesheke。
Ourapproachhadbeenreported，andtheyhadbeensenttoasktheDoctorwhatthepriceofahorseoughttobe；andwhathesaid，thattheyweretogiveandnomore。InreplytheyweretoldthatbytheirhavinggivenninelargetusksforonehorsebeforetheDoctorcame，theGriquaswouldnaturallyimaginethatthepricewasalreadysettled。Itwasexceedinglyamusingtowitnesstheexactimitationtheygaveoftheswaggerofacertainwhitewithwhomtheyhadbeendealing，andwhohad，astheyhadperceived，evidentlywishedtoassumeanairofindifference。Holdinguptheheadandscratchingthebearditwashintedmightindicatenotindifference，butvermin。
Itiswellthatwedonotalwaysknowwhattheysayaboutus。Theremarksareoftennotquitecomplimentary，andresemblecloselywhatcertainwhitetravellerssayabouttheblacks。
WemadeourcampintheafternoonabreastofthelargeislandcalledMparira，oppositethemouthoftheChobe。Francolins，quails，andguinea-fowls，aswellaslargergame，wereabundant。TheMakololoheadman，Mokompa，broughtusaliberalpresent；andintheusualway，whichisconsideredpoliteness，regrettedhehadnomilk，ashiscowswerealldry。Wegotsomehoneyherefromtheverysmallstinglessbee，called，bytheBatoka，moandi，andbyothers，thekokomatsane。
Thishoneyisslightlyacid，andhasanaromaticflavour。Thebeesareeasilyknownfromtheirhabitofbuzzingabouttheeyes，andticklingtheskinbysuckingitascommonfliesdo。Thehivehasatubeofwaxlikeaquill，foritsentrance，andisusuallyinthehollowsoftrees。
Mokompafearedthatthetribewasbreakingup，andlamentedtheconditionintowhichtheyhadfalleninconsequenceofSekeletu"sleprosy；hedidnotknowwhatwastobecomeofthem。HesenttwocanoestotakeusuptoSesheke；hisbestcanoehadtakenivoryuptothechief，topurchasegoodsofsomenativetradersfromBenguela。
AbovetheFallsthepaddlersalwaysstandinthecanoes，usinglongpaddles，tenfeetinlength，andchangingfromsidetosidewithoutlosingthestroke。
Mochokotsa，amessengerfromSekeletu，metusonthe17th，withanotherrequestfortheDoctortotakeivoryandpurchaseahorse。
Heagaindeclinedtointerfere。NoneweretocomeuptoSekeletubuttheDoctor；andallthemenwhohadhadsmallpoxatTette，threeyearsago，weretogobacktoMoshobotwane，andhewouldsprinklemedicineoverthem，todriveawaytheinfection，andpreventitspreadinginthetribe。MochokotsawastoldtosaytoSekeletuthatthediseasewasknownofoldtowhitemen，andweevenknewthemedicinetopreventit；and，werethereanydangernow，weshouldbethefirsttowarnhimofit。WhydidnothegohimselftohaveMoshobotwanesprinklemedicinetodriveawayhisleprosy。Wewerenotafraidofhisdisease，norofthefeverthathadkilledtheteachersandmanyMakololoatLinyanti。Asthisattemptatquarantinewasevidentlythesuggestionofnativedoctorstoincreasetheirownimportance，weaddedthatwehadnofood，andwouldhuntnextdayforgame，andthedayafter；and，shouldwebestillorderedpurificationbytheirmedicine，weshouldthenreturntoourowncountry。
Themessagewasnotallofourdictation，ourcompanionsinterlardeditwiththeirownindignantprotests，andsaidsomestrongthingsintheTettedialectaboutthese"doctorthings"keepingthembackfromseeingtheirfather；whentotheirsurpriseMochokotsatoldthemhekneweverywordtheyweresaying，ashewasofthetribeBazizulu，anddefiedthemtodeceivehimbyanydialect，eitheroftheMashonaontheeast，oroftheMambarionthewest。Mochokotsathenrepeatedourmessagetwice，tobesurethathehaditeveryword，andwentbackagain。Thesechiefs"messengershavemostretentivememories；
theycarrymessagesofconsiderablelengthgreatdistances，anddeliverthemalmostwordforword。Twoorthreeusuallygotogether，andwhenonthewaythemessageisrehearsedeverynight，inorderthattheexactwordsmaybekeptto。Oneofthenativeobjectionstolearningtowriteis，thatthesemenanswerthepurposeoftransmittingintelligencetoadistanceaswellasaletterwould；
and，ifapersonwishestocommunicatewithanyoneinthetown，thebestwaytodosoiseithertogotoorsendforhim。Andasforcorrespondingwithfriendsveryfaroff，thatisallverywellforwhitepeople，buttheblackshavenofriendstowhomtowrite。Theonlyeffectiveargumentforthelearningtoreadis，thatitistheirdutytoknowtherevelationfromtheirFatherinHeaven，asitstandsintheBook。
Ourmessengerreturnedontheeveningofthefollowingdaywith"Youspeaktruly，"saysSekeletu，"thediseaseisold，comeonatonce，donotsleepinthepath；forIamgreatlydesirous(tlologelecoe)toseetheDoctor。”
AfterMochokotsaleftus，wemetsomeofMokompa"smenbringingbacktheivory，ashorseswerepreferredtotheWest-Coastgoods。TheywerethebearersofinstructionstoMokompa，andastheseinstructionsillustratethegovernmentofpeoplewhohavelearnedscarcelyanythingfromEuropeans，theyareinserted，thoughotherwiseofnoimportance。MashotlanehadnotbehavedsocivillytoMr。
BaldwinasSekeletuhadorderedhimtodotoallEnglishmen。HehadbeenveryunciviltothemessengerssentbyMoselekatsewithlettersfromMr。Moffat，treatedthemasspies，andwouldnotlandtotakethebaguntiltheymovedoff。Onourspeakingtohimaboutthis，hejustifiedhisconductonthepleathathewassetattheFallsfortheverypurposeofwatchingthese，theirnaturalenemies；andhowwashetoknowthattheyhadbeensentbyMr。Moffat？Ourmenthereuponreportedathead-quartersthatMashotlanehadcursedtheDoctor。TheinstructionstoMokompa，fromSekeletu，wereto"goandtellMashotlanethathehadoffendedgreatly。HehadnotcursedMonare(Dr。Livingstone)butSebituane，asMonarewasnowintheplaceofSebituane，andhereverencedhimashehaddonehisfather。
AnyfinetakenfromMr。Baldwinwastobereturnedatonce，ashewasnotaBoerbutanEnglishman。Sekeletuwasveryangry，andMokompamustnotconcealthemessage。”
OnfindingafterwardsthatMashotlane"sconducthadbeenmostoutrageoustotheBatoka，SekeletusentforhimtocometoSesheke，inorderthathemighthavehimmoreunderhisowneye；butMashotlane，fearingthatthismeantthepunishmentofdeath，sentapoliteanswer，allegingthathewasillandunabletotravel。
SekeletutriedagaintoremoveMashotlanefromtheFalls，butwithoutsuccess。Intheorythechiefisabsoluteandquitedespotic；inpracticehisauthorityislimited，andhecannot，withoutoccasionallyputtingrefractoryheadmentodeath，forcehissubordinatestodohiswill。
ExceptthesmallrapidsbyMpariraisland，nearthemouthoftheChobe，therestofthewaytoSeshekebywaterissmooth。Herdsofcattleoftwoorthreevarietiesgrazeontheislandsintheriver:
theBatokapossessedaverysmallbreedofbeautifulshape，andremarkablytame，andmanymaystillbeseen；alargerkind，manyofwhichhavehornspendent，andlooseattheroots；andastilllargersort，withhornsofextraordinarydimensions，——apparentlyaburdenforthebeasttocarry。ThisbreedwasfoundinabundanceatLakeNgami。Westoppedatnoonatoneofthecattle-postsofMokompa，andhadarefreshingdrinkofmilk。Menofhisstandinghaveusuallyseveralherdsplacedatdifferentspots，andtheownervisitseachinturn，whilehishead-quartersareathisvillage。Hisson，aboyoften，hadchargeoftheestablishmentduringhisfather"sabsence。
AccordingtoMakololoideas，thecattle-postistheproperschoolinwhichsonsshouldbebroughtup。Heretheyreceivetherightsortofeducation——theknowledgeofpastureandhowtomanagecattle。
Strongeasterlywindsblowdailyfromnoontillmidnight，andcontinuetilltheOctoberorNovemberrainssetin。Whirlwinds，raisinghugepillarsofsmokefromburninggrassandweeds，arecommonintheforenoon。Wewerenearlycaughtinanimmenseone。Itcrossedabouttwentyyardsinfrontofus，thewindapparentlyrushingintoitfromallpointsofthecompass。Whirlingroundandroundingreateddies，itsweptuphundredsoffeetintotheairacontinuousdensedarkcloudoftheblackpulverizedsoil，mixedwithdriedgrass，offtheplain。Herdsofthenewantelopes，lechwe，andpoku，withthekokong，orgnus，andzebrasstoodgazingatusaswepassed。Themirageliftedthemattimeshalfwaytotheclouds，andtwistedthemandtheclumpsofpalmsintostrangeunearthlyforms。
Theextensiveandrichlevelplainsbythebanks，alongthesidesofwhichwepaddled，wouldsupportavastpopulation，andmightbeeasilyirrigatedfromtheZambesi。Ifwatered，theywouldyieldcropsalltheyearround，andneversufferlossbydrought。Thehippopotamusiskilledherewithlonglance-likespears。Wesawtwomen，inalightcanoe，stealingnoiselesslydownononeoftheseanimalsthoughttobeasleep；butitwasonthealert，andtheyhadquicklytoretreat。ComparativelyfewoftheseanimalsnowremainbetweenSeshekeandtheFalls，andtheyareuncommonlywary，asitiscertaindeathforonetobecaughtnappinginthedaytime。