第11章

Thehalf-castepartnerofSequashaandanumberofhismenwerestayingnear。Thefellowwasverymunchfrightenedwhenhesawus，andtrembledsomuchwhenhespoke，thattheMakololoandothernativesnoticedandremarkedonit。Hisfearsarosefromasenseofguilt，aswesaidnothingtofrightenhim，anddidnotalludetothemurdertillafewminutesbeforestarting；whenitwasremarkedthatDr。Livingstonehavingbeenaccreditedtothemurderedchief，itwouldbehisdutytoreportonit；andthatnoteventhePortugueseGovernmentwouldapproveofthedeed。Hedefendeditbysayingthattheyhadputintherightman，theotherwasausurper。Hewasevidentlygreatlyrelievedwhenwedeparted。IntheafternoonwecametoanoutlyinghamletofKambadzo，whoseownvillageisonanisland，Nyampungo，orNyangalule，attheconfluenceoftheKafue。

Thechiefwasonavisithere，andtheyhadbeenenjoyingaregularjollification。Therehadbeenmuchmirth，music，drinking，anddancing。Themen，andwomentoo，hadtaken"aweedraptoomuch，"

buthadnotpassedthecomplimentarystage。Thewifeoftheheadman，afterlookingatusafewmoments，calledouttotheothers，"Blacktradershavecomebefore，callingthemselvesBazungu，orwhitemen，butnow，forthefirsttime，haveweseentherealBazungu。”

Kambadzoalsosoonappeared；hewassorrythatwehadnotcomebeforethebeerwasalldone，buthewasgoingbacktoseeifitwasallreallyandentirelyfinished，andnotonelittlepotfulleftsomewhere。

Thiswas，ofcourse，merecharacteristicpoliteness，ashewasperfectlyawarethateverydrophadbeenswallowed；soweproceededontotheKafue，orKafuje，accompaniedbythemostintelligentofhisheadmen。Ahighridge，justbeforewereachedtheconfluence，commandsasplendidviewofthetwogreatrivers，andtherichcountrybeyond。Behind，onthenorthandeast，isthehighmountain-

range，alongwhosebasewehavebeentravelling；thewholerangeiscoveredwithtrees，whichappearevenontheprominentpeaks，Chiarapela，Morindi，andChiava；atthislastthechainbendsawaytotheN。W。，andwecouldseethedistantmountainswherethechief，Semalembue，gainedallourheartsin1856。

Onthe9thofJulywetriedtosendSemalembueapresent，butthepeoplehererefusedtoincurtheresponsibilityofcarryingit。We，whohavetheartofwriting，cannotrealizethedangeroneincursofbeingaccusedofpurloiningaportionofgoodssentfromonepersontoanother，whenthecarriercannotprovethathedeliveredallcommittedtohischarge。Rumoursofaforayhavingbeenmade，eitherbyMakololoorBatoka，asfarastheforkoftheKafue，werereceivedherebyourmenwithgreatindignation，asitlookedasifthemarauderswereshuttingupthecountry，whichtheyhadbeentryingsomuchtoopen。Belowthejunctionoftherivers，onashallowsandbank，layalargeherdofhippopotami，theirbodiesoutofthewater，likemassesofblackrock。Kambadzo"sisland，calledNyangalule，anamewhichoccursagainatthemouthoftheZambesi，hasmanychoiceMotsikiri(Trachelia)treesonit；andfourveryconspicuousstatelypalmsgrowingoutofasinglestem。TheKafueremindsusalittleoftheShire，flowingbetweensteepbanks，withfertilelandonbothsides。Itisasmallerriver，andhaslesscurrent。Hereitseemstocomefromthewest。Theheadmanofthevillage，nearwhichweencamped，broughtapresentofmeal，fowls，andsweetpotatoes。Theyhaveboththeredandwhitevarietiesofthispotato。Wehave，onseveraloccasionsduringthisjourney，feltthewantofvegetables，inadisagreeablecravingwhichourdietofmeatandnativemealcouldnotsatisfy。Itbecameworseandworsetillwegotamealofpotatoes，whichallayeditatonce。AgreatscarcityofvegetablesprevailsinthesepartsofAfrica。Thenativescollectseveralkindsofwildplantsinthewoods，whichtheyusenodoubtforthepurposeofdrivingoffcravingssimilartothoseweexperienced。

Owingtothestrengthofthewind，andthecrankystateofthecanoes，itwaslateintheafternoonofthe11thbeforeourpartywasferriedovertheKafue。Aftercrossing，wewereintheBawecountry。

Fishhookshere，ofnativeworkmanship，wereobservedtohavebarbsliketheEuropeanhooks:elsewherethepointofthehookismerelybentintowardstheshank，tohavethesameeffectinkeepingonthefishasthebarb。Wesleptnearavillageashortdistanceabovetheford。ThepeoplehereareofBatokaorigin，thesameasmanyofourmen，andcallthemselvesBatonga(independents)，orBalengi，andtheirlanguageonlydiffersslightlyfromthatoftheBakoa，wholivebetweenthetworiversKafueandLoangwa。Theparamountchiefofthedistrictlivestothewestofthisplace，andiscalledNchomokela——

anhereditarytitle:thefamilyburying-placeisonasmallhillnearthisvillage。Thewomensaluteusbyclappingtheirhandsandlullilooingasweenterandleaveavillage，andthemen，astheythink，respectfullyclaptheirhandsontheirhips。Immensecropsofmapira(holcussorghum)areraised；onespeciesofitformsanaturalbendontheseed-stalk，sothatthemassiveearhangsdown。Thegrainwasheapeduponwoodenstages，andsowasavarietyofotherproducts。Themenareskilfulhunters，andkillelephantsandbuffaloeswithlongheavyspears。Wehaltedafewminutesonthemorningofthe12thJuly，oppositethenarrowislandofSikakoa，whichhasavillageonitslowerend。WewereheretoldthatMoselekatse"schieftownisamonth"sdistancefromthisplace。Theyhadheard，moreover，thattheEnglishhadcometoMoselekatse，andtoldhimitwaswrongtokillmen；andhehadrepliedthathewasborntokillpeople，butwoulddropthehabit；and，sincetheEnglishcame，hehadsentouthismen，nottokillasofyore，buttocollecttributeofclothandivory。ThisreportreferredtothearrivaloftheRev。R。Moffat，ofKuruman，who，weafterwardsfound，hadestablishedamission。Thestatementisinterestingasshowingthat，thoughimperfectlyexpressed，thepurportofthemissionaries"

teachinghadtravelled，inashorttime，over300miles，andweknownothowfartheknowledgeoftheEnglishoperationsonthecoastspreadinland。

WhenabreastofthehighwoodedislandKalabiwecameincontactwithoneofthegame-lawsofthecountry，whichhascomedownfromthemostancienttimes。Anoldbuffalocrossedthepathafewyardsinfrontofus；ourguidethrewhissmallspearatitship，anditwasgoingoffscarcelyhurt，whenthreerifleballsknockeditover。"Itismine，"saidtheguide。Hehadwoundeditfirst，andtheestablishednativegame-lawisthattheanimalbelongstothemanwhofirstdrawsblood；thetwolegsononeside，bythesamelaw，belongedtousforkillingit。Thisbeastwasveryold，blindofoneeye，andscabby；thehorns，merestumps，notafootlong，musthaveatrophied，whenbyagehelostthestrengthdistinctiveofhissex；

someeighteenortwentyinchesofhorncouldnotwellbeworndownbymererubbingagainstthetrees。Wesawmanybuffaloesnextday，standingquietlyamidstathickthorn-jungle，throughwhichwewerepassing。Theyoftenstooduntilwewerewithinfiftyorahundredyardsofthem。

Onthe14thJulywelefttheriveratthemountain-range，which，lyingnorth-eastandsouth-westacrosstheriver，formstheKaribagorge。NeartheupperendoftheKaribarapids，thestreamSanyatientersfromthesouth，andisreportedtohaveMoselekatse"sprincipalcattle-postsatitssources；ourroutewentroundtheendofthemountains，andweencampedbesidethevillageofthegenerouschiefMoloi，whobroughtusthreeimmensebasketsoffinemapirameal，tenfowls，andtwopotsofbeer。Onreceivingapresentinreturn，herose，and，withafewdancinggestures，saidorsang，"Motota，Motota，Motota，"whichourmentranslatedinto"thanks。”HehadvisitedMoselekatseafewmonthsbeforeourarrival，andsawtheEnglishmissionaries，livingintheirwagons。"TheytoldMoselekatse，"saidhe，"theywereofhisfamily，orfriends，andwouldploughthelandandliveattheirownexpense；"andhehadreplied，"Thelandisbeforeyou，andIshallcomeandseeyouplough。”Thisagainwassubstantiallywhattookplace，whenMr。

Moffatintroducedthemissionariestohisoldfriend，andshowsstillfurtherthatthenotionoflosingtheircountrybyadmittingforeignersdoesnotcomeasthefirstideatothenativemind。Onemightimaginethat，asmechanicalpowersareunknowntotheheathen，thealmostmagicoperationsofmachinery，thediscoveriesofmodernscienceandart，orthepresenceoftheprodigiousforcewhich，forinstance，isassociatedwiththesightofaman-of-war，wouldhavetheeffectwhichmiraclesoncehadofarrestingtheattentionandinspiringawe。But，thoughwehaveheardthenativesexclaiminadmirationatthesightofevensmallillustrationsofwhatscienceenablesustodo——"Yearegods，andnotmen"——theheartisunaffected。Inattemptingtheirmoralelevation，itisalwaysmoreconducivetotheenddesired，thattheteachershouldcomeunaccompaniedbyanypowertocauseeitherjealousyorfear。Theheathen，whohavenotbecomeawareofthegreedandhatewhichtoooftencharacterizetheadvancingtideofemigration，listenwithmostattentiontothemessageofDivinelovewhendeliveredbymenwhoevidentlypossessthesamehumansympathieswiththemselves。Achiefisratherenviedhisgoodfortuneinfirstsecuringforeignersinhistown。JealousyofstrangersbelongsmoretotheArabthantotheAfricancharacter；andifthewomenareletalonebythetraveller，nodangerneedbeapprehendedfromanysavetheslave-tradingtribes，andnotoftenevenfromthem。

Wepassedthroughafertilecountry，coveredwithopenforest，accompaniedbythefriendlyBawe。Theyareveryhospitable；manyofthemwerenamed，amongthemselves，"theBaendapezi，"or"Go-nakeds，"

theironlyclothingbeingacoatofredochre。Occasionallystoppingattheirvillagesweweredulylullilooed，andregaledwithsweetnew-madebeer，which，beingyetunfermented，wasnotintoxicating。

ItisinthisstatecalledLitingorMakonde。Someofthemencarrylargeshieldsofbuffalo-hide，andallarewellsuppliedwithheavyspears。Thevicinityofthevillagesisusuallyclearedandcultivatedinlargepatches；butnowherecanthecountrybesaidtobestockedwithpeople。Ateveryvillagestandswereerected，andpilesofthenativecorn，stillunthrashed，placeduponthem；somehadbeenbeatenout，putintooblongparcelsmadeofgrass，andstackedinwoodenframes。

Wecrossedseveralrivuletsinourcourse，astheMandora，theLofia，theManzaia(withbrackishwater)，theRimbe，theChibue，theChezia，theChilola(containingfragmentsofcoal)，whichdidlittlemorethanmarkourprogress。TheislandandrapidofNakansalo，ofwhichwehadformerlyheard，wereofnoimportance，therapidbeingbuthalfamilelong，andonlyononesideoftheisland。TheislandKaluzimarksoneofthenumerousplaceswhereastronomicalobservationsweremade；Mozia，astationwhereavolunteerpoetleftus；theislandMochenya，andMpandeisland，atthemouthoftheZungwerivulet，wherewelefttheZambesi。

Whenfavouredwiththehospitalityandcompanyofthe"Go-nakeds，"wetriedtodiscoverifnuditywerethebadgeofaparticularorderamongtheBawe，buttheycouldonlyrefertocustom。Someamongthemhadalwayslikeditfornoreasoninparticular:shameseemedtoliedormant，andthesensecouldnotbearousedbyourlaughingandjokingthemontheirappearance。Theyevidentlyfeltnolessdecentthanwedidwithourclotheson；but，whatevermaybesaidinfavourofnudestatues，itstruckusthatman，inastateofnature，isamostungainlyanimal。Couldweseeanumberofthedegradedofourownlowerclassesinlikeguise，itisprobablethat，withouttheblackcolourwhichactssomehowasadress，theywouldlookworsestill。

IndomesticcontentionstheBawearecarefulnottokilleachother；

but，whenonevillagegoestowarwithanother，theyarenotsoparticular。Thevictoriouspartyaresaidtoquarteroneofthebodiesoftheenemiestheymayhavekilled，andtoperformcertainceremoniesoverthefragments。Thevanquishedcallupontheirconquerorstogivethemaportionalso；and，whenthisrequestiscompliedwith，theytooperformthesameceremonies，andlamentovertheirdeadcomrade，afterwhichthelatecombatantsmayvisiteachotherinpeace。Sometimestheheadoftheslainistakenandburiedinanant-hill，tillallthefleshisgone；andthelowerjawisthenwornasatrophybytheslayer；butthisweneversaw，andtheforegoinginformationwasobtainedonlythroughaninterpreter。

WelefttheZambesiatthemouthoftheZungweorMozamaorDelarivulet，upwhichweproceeded，firstinawesterlyandtheninanorth-westerlydirection。TheZungweatthistimehadnowaterinitssandychannelforthefirsteightortenmiles。Willows，however，growonthebanks，andwatersoonbegantoappearinthehollows；andafewmilesfurtherupitwasafineflowingstreamdeliciouslycold。AsinmanyotherstreamsfromChicovatonearSinamaneshaleandcoalcropoutinthebank；andherethelargerootsofstigmariaoritsalliedplantswerefound。WefollowedthecourseoftheZungwetothefootoftheBatokahighlands，upwhosesteepandruggedsidesofredandwhitequartzweclimbedtillweattainedanaltitudeofupwardsof3000feet。Here，onthecoolandbracingheights，theexhilarationofmindandbodywasdelightful，aswelookedbackatthehollowbeneathcoveredwithahotsultryglare，notunpleasantnowthatwewereinthemildradianceabove。WehadanobleviewofthegreatvalleyinwhichtheZambesiflows。Thecultivatedportionsaresosmallincomparisontotherestofthelandscapethatthevalleyappearsnearlyallforest，withafewgrassyglades。Wespentthenightofthe28thJulyhighabovethelevelofthesea，bytherivuletTyotyo，nearTabacheuorChirebuechina，namesbothsignifyingwhitemountain；inthemorninghoarfrostcoveredtheground，andthinicewasonthepools。

SkirtingthesouthernflankofTabacheu，wesoonpassedfromthehillsontotheportionofthevasttable-landcalledMataba，andlookingbacksawallthewayacrosstheZambesivalleytotheloftyridgesomethirtymilesoff，which，comingfromtheMashona，acountryintheS。E。，runstotheN。W。tojointheridgeattheangleofwhicharetheVictoriaFalls，andthenbendsfartotheN。E。fromthesamepoint。OnlyafewyearssincetheseextensivehighlandswerepeopledbytheBatoka；numerousherdsofcattlefurnishedabundanceofmilk，andtherichsoilamplyrepaidthelabourofthehusbandman；nowlargeherdsofbuffaloes，zebras，andantelopesfattenontheexcellentpasture；andonthatland，whichformerlysupportedmultitudes，notamanistobeenseen。IntravellingfromMondaymorningtilllateonSaturdayafternoon，allthewayfromTabacheutoMoachemba，whichisonlytwenty-onemilesoflatitudefromtheVictoriaFalls，andconstantlypassingtheruinedsitesofutterlydesertedBotokavillages，wedidnotfallinwithasingleperson。TheBatokaweredrivenoutoftheirnoblecountrybytheinvasionsofMoselekatseandSebetuane。SeveraltribesofBechuanaandBasutu，fleeingfromtheZuluorMatebelechiefMoselekatsereachedtheZambesiabovetheFalls。Comingfromalandwithoutrivers，noneofthemknewhowtoswim；andonetribe，calledtheBamangwato，wishingtocrosstheZambesi，wasferriedover，menandwomenseparately，todifferentislands，byoneoftheBatokachiefs；

themenwerethenlefttostarveandthewomenappropriatedbytheferrymanandhispeople。Sekomi，thepresentchiefoftheBamangwato，thenaninfantinhismother"sarms，wasenabled，throughthekindnessofaprivateBatoka，toescape。ThisactseemstohavemadeanindelibleimpressiononSekomi"sheart，forthoughotherwisecallous，hestillneverfailstoinquireafterthewelfareofhisbenefactor。

Sebetuane，withhiswontedability，outwittedthetreacherousBatoka，byinsistinginthepolitestmannerontheirchiefremainingathisownsideuntilthepeopleandcattlewereallcarriedsafeacross；

thechiefwasthenhandsomelyrewarded，bothwithcattleandbrassringsoffSebetuane"sownwives。NosoonerweretheMakololo，thencalledBasuto，safelyover，thantheywereconfrontedbythewholeBatokanation；andtothisdaytheMakololopointwithpridetothespotontheLekone，neartowhichtheywereencamped，whereSebetuane，withamerehandfulofwarriorsincomparisontothevasthordethatsurroundedhim，stoodwaitingtheonslaught，thewarriorsinonesmallbody，thewomenandchildrenguardingthecattlebehindthem。TheBatoka，ofcourse，meltedawaybeforethosewhohadbeenmadeveteransbyyearsofcontinualfighting，andSebetuanealwaysjustifiedhissubsequentconquestsinthatcountrybyallegingthattheBatokahadcomeouttofightwithamanfleeingforhislife，whohadneverdonethemanywrong。Theyseemnevertohavebeenawarlikerace；passingthroughtheircountry，weonceobservedalargestonecairn，andourguidefavoureduswiththefollowingaccountofit:-"Onceuponatime，ourforefathersweregoingtofightanothertribe，andheretheyhaltedandsatdown。Afteralongconsultation，theycametotheunanimousconclusionthat，insteadofproceedingtofightandkilltheirneighbours，andperhapsbekilledthemselves，itwouldbemorelikementoraisethisheapofstones，astheirprotestagainstthewrongtheothertribehaddonethem，which，havingaccomplished，theyreturnedquietlyhome。”SuchmenofpeacecouldnotstandbeforetheMakololo，nor，ofcourse，themorewarlikeMatebele，whocomingafterwards，droveeventheirconquerors，theMakololo，outofthecountry。Sebetuane，however，profitingbythetacticswhichhehadlearnedoftheBatoka，inveigledalargebodyofthisnewenemyontoanotherisland，andafterduestarvationthereovercamethewhole。Amuchgreaterarmyof"Moselekatse"sown"

followedwithcanoes，butwerenowbaffledbySebetuane"splacingallhispeopleandcattleonanislandandsoguardingitthatnonecouldapproach。Dispirited，famished，bornedownbyfever，theyreturnedtotheFalls，andallexceptfivewerecutoff。

ButthoughtheBatokaappearnevertohavehadmuchinclinationtofightwithmen，theyaredecidedlybravehuntersofbuffaloesandelephants。Theygofearlesslycloseuptotheseformidableanimals，andkillthemwithlargespears。TheBanyai，whohavelongbulliedallPortuguesetraders，wereamazedatthedaringandbraveryoftheBatokaincomingatoncetoclosequarterswiththeelephant；andChisaka，aPortugueserebel，havingformerlyinducedabodyofthistribetosettlewithhim，ravagedallthePortuguesevillasaroundTette。TheybearthenameofBasimilongwe，andsomeofourmenfoundrelationsamongthem。SininyaneandMatengaalso，twoofourparty，wereonceinveigledintoaPortugueseexpeditionagainstMariano，bytheassertionthattheDoctorhadarrivedandhadsentforthemtocomedowntoSenna。Onfindingthattheywereentrappedtofight，theyleft，afterseeinganofficerwithalargenumberofTetteslaveskilled。

TheBatokahadattainedsomewhatcivilizedideas，inplantingandprotectingvariousfruitandoil-seedyieldingtreesofthecountry。

Noothertribeeitherplantsorabstainsfromcuttingdownfruittrees，butherewesawsomewhichhadbeenplantedinregularrows，andthetrunksofwhichwerequitetwofeetindiameter。ThegrandoldMosibe，atreeyieldingabeanwithathinredpellicle，saidtobeveryfattening，hadprobablyseentwohundredsummers。Dr。KirkfoundthattheMosibeispeculiar，inbeingalliedtoaspeciesmetwithonlyintheWestIndies。TheMotsikiri，sometimescalledMafuta，yieldsahardfat，andanoilwhichisexportedfromInhambane。ItissaidthattwoancientBatokatravellerswentdownasfarastheLoangwa，andfindingtheMacaatree(jujubeorzisyphus)infruit，carriedtheseedallthewaybacktothegreatFalls，inordertoplantthem。Twoofthesetreesarestilltobeseenthere，theonlyspecimensofthekindinthatregion。

TheBatokahadmadeanearapproachtothecustomofmorerefinednationsandhadpermanentgraveyards，eitheronthesidesofhills，thusrenderedsacred，orunderlargeoldshadytrees；theyreverencethetombsoftheirancestors，andplantthelargestelephants"tusks，asmonumentsattheheadofthegrave，orentirelyencloseitwiththechoicestivory。Someoftheothertribesthrowthedeadbodyintotherivertobedevouredbycrocodiles，or，sewingitupinamat，placeitonthebranchofabaobab，orcastitinsomelonelygloomyspot，surroundedbydensetropicalvegetation，whereitaffordsamealtothefoulhyenas；buttheBatokareverentlyburytheirdead，andregardthespothenceforthassacred。TheordealbythepoisonofthemuaveisresortedtobytheBatoka，aswellasbytheothertribes；butacockisoftenmadetostandproxyforthesupposedwitch。NeartheconfluenceoftheKafuetheMambo，orchief，withsomeofhisheadmen，cametooursleeping-placewithapresent；theirforeheadsweresmearedwithwhiteflour，andanunusualseriousnessmarkedtheirdemeanour。Shortlybeforeourarrivaltheyhadbeenaccusedofwitchcraft；consciousofinnocence，theyacceptedtheordeal，andundertooktodrinkthepoisonedmuave。

ForthispurposetheymadeajourneytothesacredhillofNchomokela，onwhichreposethebodiesoftheirancestors；and，afterasolemnappealtotheunseenspiritstoattesttheinnocenceoftheirchildren，theyswallowedthemuave，vomited，andwerethereforedeclarednotguilty。Itisevidentthattheybelievethatthesoulhasacontinuedexistence；andthatthespiritsofthedepartedknowwhatthosetheyhaveleftbehindthemaredoing，andarepleasedornotaccordingastheirdeedsaregoodorevil；thisbeliefisuniversal。Theownerofalargecanoerefusedtosellit，becauseitbelongedtothespiritofhisfather，whohelpedhimwhenhekilledthehippopotamus。Another，whenthebargainforhiscanoewasnearlycompleted，seeingalargeserpentonabranchofthetreeoverhead，refusedtocompletethesale，allegingthatthiswasthespiritofhisfathercometoprotestagainstit。

SomeoftheBatokachiefsmusthavebeenmenofconsiderableenterprise；thelandofone，inthewesternpartofthiscountry，wasprotectedbytheZambesiontheS。，andontheN。andE。layanimpassablereedymarsh，filledwithwateralltheyearround，leavingonlyhiswesternborderopentoinvasion:heconceivedtheideaofdiggingabroadanddeepcanalnearlyamileinlength，fromthereedymarshtotheZambesi，and，havingactuallycarriedtheschemeintoexecution，heformedalargeisland，onwhichhiscattlegrazedinsafety，andhiscornripenedfromyeartoyearsecurefromallmarauders。

Anotherchief，whodiedanumberofyearsago，believedthathehaddiscoveredaremedyfortsetse-bittencattle；hissonMoyarashowedusaplant，whichwasnewtoourbotanist，andlikewisetoldushowthemedicinewasprepared；thebarkoftheroot，and，whatmightpleaseourhomoeopathicfriends，adozenofthetsetsearedried，andgroundtogetherintoafinepowder。Thismixtureisadministeredinternally；andthecattlearefumigatedbyburningunderthemtherestoftheplantcollected。Thetreatmentmustbecontinuedforweeks，wheneverthesymptomsofpoisonappear。Thismedicine，hefranklyadmitted，wouldnotcureallthebittencattle。"For，"saidhe，"cattle，andmentoo，dieinspiteofmedicine；butshouldaherdbyaccidentstrayintoatsetsedistrictandbebitten，bythismedicineofmyfather，Kampa-kampa，someofthemcouldbesaved，while，withoutit，allwouldinevitablydie。”Hestipulatedthatwewerenottoshowthemedicinetootherpeople，andifeverweneededitinthisregionwemustemployhim；butifwewerefaroffwemightmakeitourselves；andwhenwesawitcurethecattlethinkofhim，andsendhimapresent。

Ourmenmadeitknowneverywherethatwewishedthetribestoliveinpeace，andwoulduseourinfluencetoinduceSekeletutopreventtheBatokaofMoshobotwaneandtheMakololounder-chiefsmakingforaysintotheircountry:theyhadalreadysufferedseverely，andtheirremonstranceswiththeircountryman，Moshobotwane，evokedonlytheanswer，"TheMakololohavegivenmeaspear；whyshouldInotuseit？"He，indeed，itwaswho，beingremarkablyswiftoffoot，firstguidedtheMakololointheirconquestofthecountry。Inthecharacterofpeacemakers，therefore，weexperiencedabundanthospitality；and，fromtheKafuetotheFalls，noneofourpartywasallowedtosufferhunger。Thenativessenttooursleeping-placesgenerouspresentsofthefinestwhitemeal，andfatcaponstogiveitarelish，greatpotsofbeertocomfortourhearts，togetherwithpumpkins，beans，andtobacco，sothatwe"shouldsleepneitherhungrynorthirsty。”

IntravellingfromtheKafuetotheZungwewefrequentlypassedseveralvillagesinthecourseofaday"smarch。Intheeveningcamedeputiesfromthevillages，atwhichwecouldnotstaytosleep，withliberalpresentsoffood。Itwouldhavepainedthemtohaveallowedstrangerstopasswithoutpartakingoftheirhospitality；repeatedlywerewehailedfromhuts，andaskedtowaitamomentanddrinkalittleofthebeer，whichwasbroughtwithalacrity。Ourmarchresembledatriumphantprocession。Weenteredandlefteveryvillageamidstthecheersofitsinhabitants；themenclappingtheirhands，andthewomenlullilooing，withtheshrillcall，"Letussleep，"or"Peace。”Passingthroughahamletoneday，ourguidecalledtothepeople，"Whydoyounotclapyourhandsandsalutewhenyouseemenwhoarewishingtobringpeacetotheland？"Whenwehaltedforthenightitwasnouncommonthingforthepeopletoprepareourcampentirelyoftheirownaccord；somewithhoesquicklysmoothedthegroundforourbeds，othersbroughtdriedgrassandspreaditcarefullyoverthespot；somewiththeirsmallaxesspeedilymadeabushfencetoshieldusfromthewind；andif，asoccasionallyhappened，

thewaterwasalittledistanceoff，othershastenedandbroughtitwithfirewoodtocookourfoodwith。Theyareanindustriouspeople，andveryfondofagriculture。Forhourstogetherwemarchedthroughunbrokenfieldsofmapira，ornativecorn，ofagreatwidth；butonecangivenoideaoftheextentoflandunderthehoeascomparedwithanyEuropeancountry。Theextentofsurfaceissogreatthatthelargestfieldsunderculture，whenviewedonawidelandscape，dwindletomerespots。Whentakeninconnectionwiththewantsofthepeople，thecultivationonthewholeismostcreditabletotheirindustry。Theyerectnumerousgranarieswhichgivetheirvillagestheappearanceofbeinglarge；and，whenthewateroftheZambesihassubsided，theyplacelargequantitiesofgrain，tiedupinbundlesofgrass，andwellplasteredoverwithclay，onlowsandislandsforprotectionfromtheattacksofmaraudingmiceandmen。

Owingtotheravagesoftheweevil，thenativecorncanhardlybepreserveduntilthefollowingcropcomesin。Howeverlargelytheymaycultivate，andhoweverabundanttheharvest，itmustallbeconsumedinayear。Thismayaccountfortheirmakingsomuchofitintobeer。ThebeertheseBatokaorBawebrewisnotthesourandintoxicatingboalaorpombefoundamongsomeothertribes，butsweet，andhighlynutritive，withonlyaslightdegreeofacidity，sufficienttorenderitapleasantdrink。Thepeoplewereallplump，andingoodcondition；andweneversawasinglecaseofintoxicationamongthem，thoughalldrankabundanceofthisliting，orsweetbeer。

Bothmenandboyswereeagertoworkforverysmallpay。Ourmencouldhireanynumberofthemtocarrytheirburdensforafewbeadsaday。Ourmiserlyanddirtyex-cookhadanoldpairoftrousersthatsomeonehadgiventohim；afterhehadlongwornthemhimself，withoneofthesorelydecayedlegshehiredamantocarryhisheavyloadawholeday；asecondmancarrieditthenextdayfortheotherleg，andwhatremainedoftheoldgarment，withoutthebuttons，procuredthelabourofanothermanforthethirdday。

MenofremarkableabilityhaverisenupamongtheAfricansfromtimetotime，asamongstotherportionsofthehumanfamily。Somehaveattractedtheattention，andexcitedtheadmirationoflargedistrictsbytheirwisdom。Others，apparentlybythepowersofventriloquism，orbypeculiardexterityinthrowingthespear，orshootingwiththebow，havebeenthewonderoftheirgeneration；butthetotalabsenceofliteratureleadstothelossofallformerexperience，andthewisdomofthewisehasnotbeenhandeddown。

Theyhavehadtheirminstrelstoo，butmeretraditionpreservesnottheireffusions。Oneofthese，andapparentlyagenuinepoet，attachedhimselftoourpartyforseveraldays，andwheneverwehalted，sangourpraisestothevillagers，insmoothandharmoniousnumbers。Itwasasortofblankverse，andeachlineconsistedoffivesyllables。Thesongwasshortwhenitfirstbegan，buteachdayhepickedupmoreinformationaboutus，andaddedtothepoemuntilourpraisesbecameanodeofrespectablelength。Whendistancefromhomecompelledhisreturnheexpressedhisregretatleavingus，andwas，ofcourse，paidforhisusefulandpleasantflatteries。

Another，thoughalessgiftedsonofsong，belongedtotheBatokaofourownparty。Everyevening，whiletheotherswerecooking，talking，orsleeping，herehearsedhissongs，containingahistoryofeverythinghehadseeninthelandofthewhitemen，andonthewayback。Incomposing，extempore，anynewpiece，hewasneverataloss；foriftherightworddidnotcomehehaltednot，butekedoutthemeasurewithapeculiarmusicalsoundmeaningnothingatall。Heaccompaniedhisrecitationsonthesansa，aninstrumentfiguredinthewoodcut，thenineironkeysofwhichareplayedwiththethumbs，whilethefingerspassbehindtoholdit。Thehollowendandornamentsfacethebreastoftheplayer。Personsofamusicalturn，iftoopoortobuyasansa，maybeseenplayingvigorouslyonaninstrumentmadewithanumberofthickcorn-stalkssewntogether，asasansaframe，andkeysofsplitbamboo，which，thoughmakingbutlittlesound，seemstosoothetheplayerhimself。Whentheinstrumentisplayedwithacalabashasasoundingboard，itemitsagreatervolumeofsound。Piecesofshellsandtinareaddedtomakeajinglingaccompaniment，andthecalabashisalsoornamented。

Afterwehadpassedup，apartyofslaves，belongingtothetwonativePortuguesewhoassassinatedthechief，Mpangwe，andtookpossessionofhislandsatZumbo，followedonourfootsteps，andrepresentingthemselvestobeour"children，"boughtgreatquantitiesofivoryfromtheBawe，forafewcoarsebeadsatusk。Theyalsopurchasedtenlargenewcanoestocarryit，attherateofsixstringsofredorwhitebeads，ortwofathomsofgreycalico，foreachcanoe，and，atthesamecheaprate，anumberofgood-lookinggirls。

CHAPTERVII。

TheVictoriaFallsoftheZambesi——MarvellousgrandeuroftheCataracts——TheMakololo"stown——TheChiefSekeletu。

DuringthetimeweremainedatMotuntaasplendidmeteorwasobservedtolightenthewholeheavens。Theobserver"sbackwasturnedtoit，butonlookingroundthestreakoflightwasseentoremainonitspathsomeseconds。Thisstreakisusuallyexplainedtobeonlythecontinuanceoftheimpressionmadebytheshiningbodyontheretina。

Thiscannotbe，asinthiscasethemeteorwasnotactuallyseenandyetthestreakwasclearlyperceived。Theraysofplanetsandstarsalsorequireanotherexplanationthanthatusuallygiven。

Fruit-treesandgiganticwildfig-trees，andcirclesofstonesonwhichcornsafeswereplaced，withworngrindstones，pointoutwherethevillagesoncestood。TheonlyreasonnowassignedforthisfinecountryremainingdesolateisthefearoffreshvisitationsbytheMatebele。ThecountrynowslopesgraduallytothewestintotheMakololoValley。Twodays"marchfromtheBatokavillagenearestthehighlands，wemetwithsomehunterswhowereburningthedrygrass，inordertoattractthegamebythefreshvegetationwhichspeedilyspringsupafterwards。Thegrass，asalreadyremarked，isexcellentforcattle。Onespecies，withleaveshavingfinelyserratededges，andofareddish-browncolour，wenoticedourmeneating:ittastesexactlylikeliquorice-root，andisnamedkezu-kezu。Thetsetse，knowntotheBatokabythename"ndoka，"doesnotexisthere，thoughbuffaloesandelephantsabound。

Asmalltrapinthepath，baitedwithamouse，tocatchspottedcats(F。Genetta)，isusuallythefirstindicationthatwearedrawingneartoavillage；butwhenwegetwithinthesoundsofpoundingcorn，cockcrowing，orthemerryshoutsofchildrenatplay，weknowthatthehutsarebutafewyardsoff，thoughthetreesconcealthemfromview。Wereached，onthe4thofAugust，Moachemba，thefirstoftheBatokavillageswhichnowoweallegiancetoSekeletu，andcouldseedistinctlywiththenakedeye，inthegreatvalleyspreadoutbeforeus，thecolumnsofvapourrisingfromtheVictoriaFalls，thoughupwardsof20milesdistant。Wewereinformedthat，therainshavingfailedthisyear，thecorncropshadbeenlost，andgreatscarcityandmuchhungerprevailedfromSesheketoLinyanti。SomeofthereportswhichthemenhadheardfromtheBatokaofthehillsconcerningtheirfamilies，werehereconfirmed。Takelang"swifehadbeenkilledbyMashotlane，theheadmanattheFalls，onacharge，asusual，ofwitchcraft。Inchikola"stwowives，believinghimtobedead，hadmarriedagain；andMasakasawasintenselydisgustedtohearthattwoyearsagohisfriends，uponareportofhisdeath，threwhisshieldovertheFalls，slaughteredallhisoxen，andheldaspeciesofwildIrishwake，inhonourofhismemory:hesaidhemeanttodisownthem，andtosay，whentheycometosalutehim，"Iamdead。I

amnothere。Ibelongtoanotherworld，andshouldstinkifIcameamongyou。”

Allthesadnewswehadpreviouslyheard，ofthedisastrousresultswhichfollowedtheattemptofapartyofmissionaries，undertheRev。