第17章

Theroguesleftonthebeach，closetoourbeds，theAneroidBarometerandapairofboots，thinkingpossiblythattheymightbeofusetous，or，atleast，thattheycouldbeofnonetothem。Theyshovedbacksomedriedplantsandfishesintoonebag，butcarriedoffmanyotherspecimenswehadcollected；someofournotesalso，andnearlyallourclothing。

Wecouldnotsuspectthepeopleofthevillagenearwhichwelay。Wehadprobablybeenfollowedfordaysbythethieveswatchingforanopportunity。AndoursuspicionsfellonsomepersonswhohadcomefromtheEastCoast；buthavingnoevidence，andexpectingtohearifourgoodswereexposedforsaleinthevicinity，wemadenofussaboutit，andbegantomakenewclothing。Thatourriflesandrevolverswereleftuntouchedwasgreatlytoouradvantage:yetwefeltitwasmosthumiliatingforarmedmentohavebeensothoroughlyfleecedbyafewblackrascals。

Someofthebestfisheriesappeartobeprivateproperty。Wefoundshelterfromastormonemorninginaspaciouslagoon，whichcommunicatedwiththelakebyanarrowpassage。Acrossthisstraitstakesweredrivenin，leavingonlyspacesforthebasketfish-traps。

Ascoreofmenwerebusilyengagedintakingoutthefish。Wetriedtopurchasesome，buttheyrefusedtosell。Thefishdidnotbelongtothem，theywouldsendfortheproprietoroftheplace。Theproprietorarrivedinashorttime，andreadilysoldwhatwewanted。

Someoftheburying-groundsareverywellarranged，andwellcaredfor；thiswasnoticedatChitanda，andmoreparticularlyatavillageonthesouthernshoreofthefineharbouratCapeMaclear。Wideandneatpathsweremadeintheburying-groundonitseasternandsouthernsides。Agrandoldfig-treestoodatthenorth-eastcorner，anditswide-spreadingbranchesthrewtheirkindlyshadeoverthelastresting-placeofthedead。Severalothermagnificenttreesgrewaroundthehallowedspot。Moundswereraisedastheyareathome，butalllaynorthandsouth，theheadsapparentlynorth。Thegravesofthesexesweredistinguishedbythevariousimplementswhichtheburieddeadhadusedintheirdifferentemploymentsduringlife；buttheywereallbroken，asiftobeemployednomore。Apieceoffishing-netandabrokenpaddletoldwhereafishermanlay。Thegravesofthewomenhadthewoodenmortar，andtheheavypestleusedinpoundingthecorn，andthebasketinwhichthemealissifted，whileallhadnumerousbrokencalabashesandpotsarrangedaroundthem。Theideathatthefuturelifeislikethepresentdoesnotappeartoprevail；yetabanana-treehadbeencarefullyplantedattheheadofseveralofthegraves；thefruitmightbeconsideredanofferingtothosewhostillpossesshumantastes。Thepeopleoftheneighbouringvillageswerefriendlyandobliging，andwillinglybroughtusfoodforsale。

Pursuingourexploration，wefoundthatthenorthernpartofthelakewastheabodeoflawlessnessandbloodshed。TheMazite，orMazitu，liveonthehighlands，andmakesuddenswoopsonthevillagesoftheplains。TheyareZuluswhocameoriginallyfromthesouth，inlandofSofallaandInhambane；andareofthesamefamilyasthosewholevyannualtributefromthePortugueseontheZambesi。AllthevillagesnorthofMankambira"s(lat。11degrees44minutessouth)hadbeenrecentlydestroyedbytheseterriblemarauders，buttheywerefoiledintheirattacksuponthatchiefandMarenga。ThethicketsandstockadesroundtheirvillagesenabledthebowmentopickofftheMazituinsecurity，whiletheywereafraidtoventurenearanyplacewheretheycouldnotusetheirshields。BeyondMankambira"swesawburnedvillages，andtheputridbodiesofmanywhohadfallenbyMazituspearsonlyafewdaysbefore。Ourlandpartywereafraidtogofurther。Thisreluctancetoproceedwithoutthepresenceofawhitemanwasverynatural，becausebandsoftheenemywhohadravagedthecountryweresupposedtobestillroamingabout；andifthesemarauderssawnonebutmenoftheirowncolour，ourpartymightforthwithbeattacked。Compliancewiththeirrequestledtoaneventwhichmighthavebeenattendedbyveryseriousconsequences。Dr。

Livingstonegotseparatedfromthepartyintheboatforfourdays。

Havingtakenthefirstmorning"sjourneyalongwiththem，anddirectingtheboattocallforhiminabayinsight，bothpartiesproceedednorth。InanhourDr。Livingstoneandhispartystruckinland，onapproachingthefootofthemountainswhichriseabruptlyfromthelake。Supposingthattheyhadheardofapathbehindthehighrangewhichthereformstheshore，thoseintheboatheldontheircourse；butitsoonbegantoblowsofreshthattheyhadtorunashoreforsafety。Whiledelayedacoupleofhours，twomenweresentupthehillstolookforthelandparty，buttheycouldseenothingofthem，andtheboatpartysailedassoonasitwassafetoputtosea，withtheconvictionthatthemissingoneswouldregainthelakeinfront。

Inashorttimeasmallislandormassofrockswaspassed，onwhichwereanumberofarmedMazituwithsomeyoungwomen，apparentlytheirwives。TheheadmansaidthathehadbeenwoundedinthefootbyMankambira，andthattheywerestayingtheretillhecouldwalktohischief，wholivedoverthehills。Theyhadseverallargecanoes，anditwasevidentthatthiswasanestoflakepirates，whosalliedoutbynighttokillandplunder。Theyreportedapathbehindthehills，and，thecrewbeingreassured，theboatsailedon。Afewmilesfurther，anotherandstilllargerbandofpirateswerefalleninwith，andhundredsofcrowsandkiteshoveredoverandroundtherocksonwhichtheylived。Dr。KirkandCharlesLivingstone，thoughorderedinavoiceofauthoritytocomeashore，keptontheircourse。

Anumberofcanoesthenshotoutfromtherocksandchasedthem。Onewithninestrongpaddlersperseveredforsometimeafteralltheothersgaveupthechase。Agoodbreeze，however，enabledthegigtogetawayfromthemwithease。Aftersailingtwelveorfifteenmiles，northofthepointwhereDr。Livingstonehadleftthem，itwasdecidedthathemustbebehind；butnosoonerhadtheboat"sheadbeenturnedsouth，thananothergalecompelledhertoseekshelterinabay。Hereanumberofwretchedfugitivesfromtheslave-tradeontheoppositeshoreofthelakewerefound；theoriginalinhabitantsoftheplacehadallbeensweptofftheyearbeforebytheMazitu。

Inthedesertedgardensbeautifulcottonwasseengrowing，muchofithadthestapleaninchandahalflong，andofveryfinequality。

Someoftheplantswereuncommonlylarge，deservingtoberankedwithtrees。

Ontheirtryingtopurchasefood，thenativeshadnothingtosellexceptalittledriedcassava-root，andafewfish:andtheydemandedtwoyardsofcalicofortheheadonlyofalargefish。Whenthegaleadmittedoftheirreturn，theirformerpursuerstriedtodrawthemashorebyassertingthattheyhadquantitiesofivoryforsale。Owingtoasuccessionofgales，itwasthefourthdayfrompartingthattheboatwasfoundbyDr。Livingstone，whowascomingoninsearchofitwithonlytwoofhiscompanions。

Afterproceedingashortdistanceupthepathinwhichtheyhadbeenlostsightof，theylearnedthatitwouldtakeseveraldaystogoroundthemountains，andrejointhelake；andtheythereforeturneddowntothebay，expectingtofindtheboat，butonlysawitdisappearingawaytothenorth。Theypushedonasbrisklyaspossibleafterit，butthemountainflankwhichformsthecoastprovedexcessivelytediousandfatiguing；travellingallday，thedistancemade，inastraightline，wasunderfivemiles。Assoonasdaydawned，themarchwasresumed；and，afterhearingatthefirstinhabitedrockthattheircompanionshadpasseditthedaybefore，agoatwasslaughteredoutofthefourwhichtheyhadwiththem，whensuddenly，totheevidentconsternationofthemen，sevenMazituappearedarmedwithspearsandshields，withtheirheadsdressedfantasticallywithfeathers。Toholdaparley，Dr。LivingstoneandMoloka，aMakololomanwhospokeZulu，wentunarmedtomeetthem。OnDr。Livingstoneapproachingthem，theyorderedhimtostop，andsitdowninthesun，whiletheysatintheshade。No，no!"wasthereply，"ifyousitintheshade，sowillwe。”Theythenrattledtheirshieldswiththeirclubs，aproceedingwhichusuallyinspiresterror；butMolokaremarked，"Itisnotthefirsttimewehaveheardshieldsrattled。”Andallsatdowntogether。Theyaskedforapresent，toshowtheirchiefthattheyhadactuallymetstrangers——

somethingasevidenceofhavingseenmenwhowerenotArabs。Andtheywererequestedinturntotakethesestrangerstotheboat，ortotheirchief。Allthegoodswereintheboat，andtoshowthatnopresentsuchastheywantedwasinhispockets，Dr。Livingstoneemptiedthem，turningout，amongotherthings，anote-book:thinkingitwasapistoltheystartedup，andsaid，"Putthatinagain。”Theyoungermenthenbecameboisterous，anddemandedagoat。Thatcouldnotbespared，astheywerethesoleprovisions。Whentheyinsisted，theywereaskedhowmanyofthepartytheyhadkilled，thattheythusbegantodividethespoil；thisevidentlymadethemashamed。Theeldersweremorereasonable；theydreadedtreachery，andwereasmuchafraidofDr。Livingstoneandhispartyashismenwereofthem；foronleavingtheyspedawayupthehillslikefrighteneddeer。Oneofthem，andprobablytheleader，wasmarried，asseenbyportionsofhishairsewnintoaring；allwereobservedbytheirteethtobepeopleofthecountry，whohadbeenincorporatedintotheZulutribe。

Thewaystillledoverasuccessionofsteepridgeswithravinesoffrom500to1000feetindepth；someofthesideshadtobescaledonhandsandknees，andnosoonerwasthetopreachedthanthedescentbeganagain。Eachravinehadarunningstream；andthewholecountry，thoughsoveryrugged，hadallbeencultivated，anddenselypeopled。Manybanana-trees，uncaredforpatchesofcorn，andCongo-

beanbushesattestedformercultivation。Thepopulationhadallbeensweptaway；ruinedvillages，brokenutensils，andhumanskeletons，metwithateveryturn，toldasadtale。Sonumerousweretheslain，thatitwasthoughttheinhabitantshadbeenslaughteredinconsequenceofhavingmaderaidsontheZulusforcattle。

Continuingthejourneythatnightaslongaslightserved，theysleptunconsciouslyontheedgeofadeepprecipice，withoutfire，lesttheMazitushouldseeit。Nextmorningmostofthemenweretiredout，thedreadoftheapparitionofthedaybeforetendingprobablytoincreasethelamenessofwhichtheycomplained。Whentold，however，thatallmightreturntoMankambira"ssavetwo，MolokaandCharlie，theywouldnot，tillassuredthattheactwouldnotbeconsideredoneofcowardice。Givingthemoneofthegoatsasprovision，anotherwasslaughteredfortheremainderofthepartywho，havingfoundontherocksacanoewhichhadbelongedtooneofthedesertedvillages，determinedtoputtoseaagain；butthecraftwasverysmall，andtheremaininggoat，spiteofmanyathreatofhavingitsthroatcut，jumpedandrolledaboutso，asnearlytocapsizeit；soDr。

Livingstonetooktotheshoreagain，andafteranothernightspentwithoutfire，exceptjustforcooking，wasdelightedtoseetheboatcomingback。

WepulledthatdaytoMankambira"s，adistancethatonshore，withthemostheartbreakingtoil，hadtakenthreedaystotravel。Thiswasthelastlatitudetaken，11degrees44minutesS。Theboathadgoneabout24minutesfurthertothenorth，thelandpartyprobablyhalfthatdistance，butfeverpreventedtheinstrumentsbeingused。

Dr。KirkandCharlesLivingstonewerethereforefurthestupthelake，andtheysawabout20minutesbeyondtheirturning-point，sayintothetenthdegreeofsouthlatitude。Fromtheheightsofatleastathousandfeet，overwhichthelandpartytoiled，thedarkmountainmassesonbothsidesofthelakewereseenclosingin。Atthiselevationtheviewextendedatleastasfarasthatfromtheboats，anditisbelievedtheendofthelakeliesonthesouthernbordersof10degrees，orthenorthernlimitsof11degreessouthlatitude。

Elephantsarenumerousonthebordersofthelake，andsurprisinglytame，beingoftenfoundclosetothevillages。Hippopotamiswarmverymuchattheireaseinthecreeksandlagoons，andherdsaresometimesseeninthelakeitself。Theirtamenessarisesfromthefactthatpoisonedarrowshavenoeffectoneitherelephantorhippopotamus。Fiveofeachwereshotforfoodduringourjourney。

Twooftheelephantswerefemales，andhadonlyasingletuskapiece，andwereeachkilledbythefirstshot。Itisalwaysacaseoffamineorsatietywhendependingontherifleforfood——aglutofmeatornoneatall。Mostfrequentlyitisscantyfare，exceptwhengameisabundant，asitisfaruptheZambesi。Wehadonemorningtwohippopotamiandanelephant，perhapsinallsomeeighttonsofmeat，andtwodaysafterthelastofafewsardinesonlyfordinner。

Onemorningwhensailingpastaprettythickly-inhabitedpart，weweresurprisedatseeingninelargebull-elephantsstandingnearthebeachquietlyflappingtheirgiganticears。Gladofanopportunityofgettingsomefreshmeat，welandedandfiredintoone。Theyallretreatedintoamarshypieceofgroundbetweentwovillages。Ourmengavechase，andfiredintotheherd。Standingonasandhummock，wecouldseethebleedinganimalsthrowingshowersofwaterwiththeirtrunksovertheirbacks。Theherdwassoondrivenbackuponus，andawoundedoneturnedtobay。Yetneitherthisone，noranyoftheothers，everattemptedtocharge。Havingbrokenhislegswitharifle-ball，wefiredintohimatfortyyardsasrapidlyaswecouldloadanddischargetherifles。Hesimplyshookhisheadateachshot，andreceivedatleastsixtyEnfieldballsbeforehefell。OurexcellentsailorfromthenorthofIrelandhappenedtofirethelast，and，assoonashesawtheanimalfall，heturnedwithanairoftriumphtotheDoctorandexclaimed，"ItwasMYshotthatdoneit，sir!"

Inafewminutesupwardsofathousandnativeswereroundtheprostratekingofbeasts；and，afterourmenhadtakenalltheywanted，aninvitationwasgiventothevillagerstotaketheremainder。Theyrushedatitlikehungryhyenas，andinanincrediblyshorttimeeveryinchofitwascarriedoff。Itwasonlybyknowingthatthemeatwouldallbeusedthatwefeltjustifiedintheslaughterofthisnoblecreature。Thetusksweighed62lbs。

each。AlargeamountofivorymightbeobtainedfromthepeopleofNyassa，andwewerefrequentlytoldoftheirhavingitintheirhuts。

Whiledetainedbyastormonthe17thOctoberatthemouthoftheKaombe，wewerevisitedbyseveralmenbelongingtoanArabwhohadbeenforfourteenyearsintheinterioratKatanga"s，southofCazembe"s。Theyhadjustbroughtdownivory，malachite，copperrings，andslavestoexchangeforclothatthelake。ThemalachitewassaidtobedugoutofalargeveinonthesideofahillnearKatanga"s。TheyknewLakeTanganyikawell，buthadnotheardoftheZambesi。Theyspokequitepositively，sayingthatthewaterofLakeTanganyikaflowedoutbytheoppositeendtothatofNyassa。Astheyhadseenneitheroftheoverflows，wetookitsimplyasapieceofArabgeography。Wepassedtheirestablishmentoflongshedsnextday，andweresatisfiedthattheArabsmustbedrivingagoodtrade。

TheLakeslave-tradewasgoingonataterriblerate。TwoenterprisingArabshadbuiltadhow，andwererunningher，crowdedwithslaves，regularlyacrosstheLake。Weweretoldshesailedthedaybeforewereachedtheirhead-quarters。ThisestablishmentisinthelatitudeofthePortugueseslave-exportingtownofIboe，andpartlysuppliesthatvilemarket；butthegreaternumberoftheslavesgotoKilwa。Wedidnotseemuchevidenceofawishtobarter。Someivorywasofferedforsale；butthechieftrafficwasinhumanchattels。Wouldthatwecouldgiveacomprehensiveaccountofthehorrorsoftheslave-trade，withanapproximationtothenumberoflivesityearlydestroys!forwefeelsurethatwereevenhalfthetruthtoldandrecognized，thefeelingsofmenwouldbesothoroughlyroused，thatthisdevilishtrafficinhumanfleshwouldbeputdownatallrisks；butneitherwe，noranyoneelse，havethestatisticsnecessaryforaworkofthiskind。LetusstatewhatwedoknowofoneportionofAfrica，andtheneveryreaderwhobelievesourtalecanapplytheratiooftheknownmiserytofindouttheunknown。WewereinformedbyColonelRigby，lateH。M。PoliticalAgent，andConsulatZanzibar，that19，000slavesfromthisNyassacountryalonepassannuallythroughtheCustom-houseofthatisland。

ThisisexclusiveofcourseofthosesenttoPortugueseslave-ports。

Letitnotbesupposedforaninstantthatthisnumber，19，000，representsallthevictims。Thosetakenoutofthecountryarebutaverysmallsectionofthesufferers。Weneverrealizedtheatrociousnatureofthetraffic，untilwesawitatthefountain-head。Theretruly"Satanhashisseat。”Besidesthoseactuallycaptured，thousandsarekilledanddieoftheirwoundsandfamine，drivenfromtheirvillagesbytheslaveraidproper。Thousandsperishininternecinewarwagedforslaveswiththeirownclansmenandneighbours，slainbythelustofgain，whichisstimulated，beitrememberedalways，bytheslavepurchasersofCubaandelsewhere。

Themanyskeletonswehaveseen，amongstrocksandwoods，bythelittlepools，andalongthepathsofthewilderness，attesttheawfulsacrificeofhumanlife，whichmustbeattributed，directlyorindirectly，tothistradeofhell。Wewouldaskourcountrymentobelieveuswhenwesay，asweconscientiouslycan，thatitisourdeliberateopinion，fromwhatweknowandhaveseen，thatnotone-

fifthofthevictimsoftheslave-tradeeverbecomeslaves。TakingtheShireValleyasanaverage，weshouldsaynotevenone-tentharriveattheirdestination。Asthesystem，therefore，involvessuchanawfulwasteofhumanlife，——orshallwesayofhumanlabour？——andmoreovertendsdirectlytoperpetuatethebarbarismofthosewhoremaininthecountry，theargumentforthecontinuanceofthiswastefulcoursebecause，forsooth，afractionoftheenslavedmayfindgoodmasters，seemsofnogreatvalue。Thisreasoning，ifnottheresultofignorance，maybeofmaudlinphilanthropy。AsmallarmedsteameronLakeNyassacouldeasily，byexercisingacontrol，andfurnishinggoodsinexchangeforivoryandotherproducts，breaktheneckofthisinfamoustrafficinthatquarter；fornearlyallmustcrosstheLakeortheUpperShire。

OurexplorationoftheLakeextendedfromthe2ndSeptembertothe27thOctober，1861；and，havingexpendedorlostmostofthegoodswehadbrought，itwasnecessarytogobacktotheship。Whennearthesouthernend，onourreturn，weweretoldthataverylargeslave-

partyhadjustcrossedtotheeasternside。Weheardthefireofthreegunsintheevening，andjudgedbythereportthattheymustbeatleastsix-pounders。TheyweresaidtobelongtoanAjawachiefnamedMukata。

IndescendingtheShire，wefoundconcealedinthebroadbeltofpapyrusroundthelakeletPamalombe，intowhichtheriverexpands，anumberofManganjafamilieswhohadbeendrivenfromtheirhomesbytheAjawaraids。Sothicklydidthepapyrusgrow，thatwhenbeatdownitsupportedtheirsmalltemporaryhuts，thoughwhentheywalkedfromonehuttoanother，itheavedandbentbeneaththeirfeetasthinicedoesathome。

Adenseandimpenetrableforestofthepapyruswasleftstandingbetweenthemandtheland，andnoonepassingbyonthesamesidewouldeverhavesuspectedthathumanbeingslivedthere。Theycametothisspotfromthesouthbymeansoftheircanoes，whichenabledthemtoobtainalivingfromthefinefishwhichaboundinthelakelet。Theyhadalargequantityofexcellentsaltsewedupinbark，someofwhichwebought，ourownhavingrunout。Weanchoredforthenightofftheirfloatingcamp，andwerevisitedbymyriadsofmosquitoes。Someofthenativesshowaloveofcountryquitesurprising。Wesawfugitivesonthemountains，inthenorthofthelake，whowerepersistinginclingingtothehauntsoftheirboyhoodandyouth，inspiteofstarvationandthecontinualdangerofbeingputtodeathbytheMazitu。

Afewmilesbelowthelakeletisthelastofthegreatslave-

crossings。SincetheAjawainvasionthevillagesontheleftbankhadbeenabandoned，andthepeople，aswesawinourascent，werelivingontherightorwesternbank。

AswewererestingforafewminutesoppositethevaluablefisheryatMovunguti，ayoungeffeminate-lookingmanfromsomesea-coasttribecameingreatstatetohavealookatus。Hewalkedunderalargeumbrella，andwasfollowedbyfivehandsomedamselsgailydressedandadornedwithaviewtoattractpurchasers。Onewascarryinghispipeforsmokingbang，herecalled"chamba；"anotherhisbowandarrows；athirdhisbattle-axe；afourthoneofhisrobes；whilethelastwasreadytotakehisumbrellawhenhefelttired。Thisshowofhismerchandisewastoexcitethecupidityofanychiefwhohadivory，andmaybecalledthelawfulwayofcarryingontheslave-trade。

Whatproportionitbearstotheotherwaysinwhichwehaveseenthistrafficpursued，weneverfoundmeansofformingajudgment。Hesatandlookedatusforafewminutes，theyoungladieskneelingbehindhim；andhavingsatisfiedhimselfthatwewerenotlikelytobecustomers，hedeparted。

Onourfirsttripwemet，atthelandingoppositethisplace，amiddle-agedwomanofconsiderableintelligence，andpossessingmoreknowledgeofthecountrythananyofthemen。OurfirstdefiniteinformationaboutLakeNyassawasobtainedfromher。Seeingustakingnotes，sheremarkedthatshehadbeentothesea，andhadthereseenwhitemenwriting。Shehadseencamelsalso，probablyamongtheArabs。ShewastheonlyManganjawomanweevermetwhowasashamedofwearingthe"pelele，"orlip-ring。Sheretiredtoherhut，tookitout，andkeptherhandbeforehermouthtohidethehideousholeinthelipwhileconversingwithus。Allthevillagersrespectedher，andeventheheadmentookasecondaryplaceinherpresence。Oninquiringforhernow，wefoundthatshewasdead。Weneverobtainedsufficientmaterialstoestimatetherelativemortalityofthehighlandsandlowlands；but，frommanyveryoldwhite-headedblackshavingbeenseenonthehighlands，wethinkitprobablethatevennativeracesarelongerlivedthehighertheirdwelling-placesare。

WelandedbelowatMikena"sandtookobservationsforlongitude，toverifythosetakentwoyearsbefore。Thevillagewasdeserted，Mikenaandhispeoplehavingfledtotheothersideoftheriver。A

fewhadcomeacrossthismorningtoworkintheiroldgardens。Aftercompletingtheobservationswehadbreakfast；and，asthelastofthethingswerebeingcarriedintotheboat，aManganjamancamerunningdowntohiscanoe，cryingout，"TheAjawahavejustkilledmycomrade!"Weshovedoff，andintwominutestheadvancedguardofalargemaraudingpartywerestandingwiththeirmusketsonthespotwherewehadtakenbreakfast。Theywereevidentlysurprisedatseeingusthere，andhalted；asdidalsothemainbodyofperhapsathousandmen。"Killthem，"criedtheManganja；"theyaregoinguptothehillstokilltheEnglish，"meaningthemissionarieswehadleftatMagomero。Buthavingnoprospectoffriendlycommunicationwiththem，norconfidenceinManganja"stestimony，weproceededdowntheriver；leavingtheAjawasittingunderalargebaobab，andtheManganjacursingthemmostenergeticallyacrosstheriver。

Onourwayup，wehadseenthatthepeopleofZimikahadtakenrefugeonalongislandintheShire，wheretheyhadplacedstoresofgraintopreventitfallingintothehandsoftheAjawa；supposingafterwardsthattheinvasionandwarwerepast，theyhadremovedbackagaintothemainlandontheeast，andwerelivinginfanciedsecurity。Onapproachingthechief"svillage，whichwasbuiltinthemidstofabeautifulgroveofloftywild-figandpalmtrees，soundsofrevelryfelluponourears。Thepeoplewerehavingamerrytime——

drumming，dancing，anddrinkingbeer——whileapowerfulenemywascloseathand，bringingdeathorslaverytoeveryoneinthevillage。

Oneofourmencalledouttoseveralwhocametothebanktolookatus，thattheAjawawerecomingandwereevennowatMikena"svillage；

buttheyweredazedwithdrinking，andtooknonoticeofthewarning。

Crowdsofcarriersofferedtheirservicesafterwelefttheriver。

Severalsetsofthemplacedsomuchconfidenceinus，astodeclinereceivingpaymentattheendofthefirstday；theywishedtoworkanotherday，andsoreceivebothdays"wagesinonepiece。Theyoungheadmanofanewvillagehimselfcameonwithhismen。Themarchwasaprettylongone，andoneofthemenproposedtolaytheburdensdownbesideahutamileormorefromthenextvillage。Theheadmanscoldedthefellowforhismeannessinwishingtogetridofourgoodswherewecouldnotprocurecarriers，andmadehimcarrythemon。Thevillage，atthefootofthecataracts，hadincreasedverymuchinsizeandwealthsincewepasseditonourwayup。Anumberoflargenewhutshadbeenbuilt；andthepeoplehadagoodstockofclothandbeads。Wecouldnotaccountforthissuddenprosperity，untilwesawsomefinelargecanoes，insteadofthetwoold，leakythingswhichlaytherebefore。Thishadbecomeacrossing-placefortheslavesthatthePortugueseagentswerecarryingtoTette，becausetheywereafraidtotakethemacrossnearertowheretheshiplay，aboutsevenmilesoff。NothingwasmoredishearteningthanthisconductoftheManganja，inprofitingbytheentirebreakingupoftheirnation。

Wereachedtheshiponthe8thofNovember，1861，inaveryweakcondition，havingsufferedmorefromhungerthanonanyprevioustrip。Heavyrainscommencedonthe9th，andcontinuedseveraldays；

theriverroserapidly，andbecamehighlydiscoloured。BishopMackenziecamedowntotheshiponthe14th，withsomeofthe"Pioneer"s"men，whohadbeenatMagomeroforthebenefitoftheirhealth，andalsoforthepurposeofassistingtheMission。TheBishopappearedtobeinexcellentspirits，andthoughtthatthefuturepromisedfairforpeaceandusefulness。TheAjawahavingbeendefeatedanddrivenoffwhilewewereontheLake，hadsentwordthattheydesiredtoliveatpeacewiththeEnglish。ManyoftheManganjahadsettledroundMagomero，inordertobeundertheprotectionoftheBishop；anditwashopedthattheslave-tradewouldsoonceaseinthehighlands，andthepeoplebeleftinthesecureenjoymentoftheirindustry。TheMission，itwasalsoanticipated，mightsoonbecome，toaconsiderabledegree，self-supporting，andraisecertainkindsoffood，likethePortugueseofSennaandQuillimane。Mr。

Burrup，anenergeticyoungman，hadarrivedatChibisa"sthedaybeforetheBishop，havingcomeuptheShireinacanoe。Asurgeonandalaybrotherfollowedbehindinanothercanoe。The"Pioneer"s"

draughtbeingtoomuchfortheupperpartoftheShire，itwasnotdeemedadvisabletobringherup，onthenexttrip，furtherthantheRuo；theBishop，therefore，resolvedtoexplorethecountryfromMagomerotothemouthofthatriver，andtomeettheshipwithhissistersandMrs。Burrup，inJanuary。Thiswasarrangedbeforeparting，andthenthegoodBishopandBurrup，whomwewerenevertomeetagain，leftus；theygaveandreceivedthreeheartyEnglishcheersastheywenttotheshore，andwesteamedoff。

Therainsceasedonthe14th，andthewatersoftheShirefell，evenmorerapidlythantheyhadrisen。Ashoal，twentymilesbelowChibisa"s，checkedourfurtherprogress，andwelaytherefivewearyweeks，tillthepermanentriseoftherivertookplace。Duringthisdetention，withalargemarshoneachside，thefirstdeathoccurredintheExpeditionwhichhadnowbeenthree-and-a-halfyearsinthecountry。Thecarpenter"smate，afinehealthyyoungman，wasseizedwithfever。Theusualremedieshadnoeffect；hediedsuddenlywhilewewereateveningprayers，andwasburiedonshore。Hecameoutinthe"Pioneer，"and，withtheexceptionofaslighttouchoffeveratthemouthoftheRovuma，hadenjoyedperfecthealthallthetimehehadbeenwithus。ThePortugueseareofopinionthattheEuropeanwhohasimmunityfromthisdiseaseforanylengthoftimeafterheentersthecountryismorelikelytobecutoffbyitwhenitdoescome，thanthemanwhohasitfrequentlyatfirst。

TherainsbecameprettygeneraltowardsthecloseofDecember，andtheShirewasinfloodinthebeginningofJanuary，1862。Atourwooding-place，amileabovetheRuo，thewaterwasthreefeethigherthanitwaswhenwewerehereinJune；andonthenightofthe6thitroseeighteeninchesmore，andsweptdownanimmenseamountofbrushwoodandlogswhichswarmedwithbeetlesandthetwokindsofshellswhicharecommonallovertheAfricancontinent。Nativesincanoeswerebusyspearingfishinthemeadowsandcreeks，andappearedtobetakingthemingreatnumbers。Spur-wingedgeese，andothersoftheknob-nosedspecies，tookadvantageofthelowgardensbeingflooded，andcametopilferthebeans。AswepassedtheRuo，onthe7th，andsawnothingoftheBishop，weconcludedthathehadheardfromhissurgeonofourdetention，andhaddeferredhisjourney。Hearrivedtherefivedaysafter，onthe12th。

AfterpayingourSennamen，astheywishedtogohome，welandedthemhere。Allwerekeentraders，andhadinvestedlargelyinnativeiron-hoes，axes，andornaments。Manyofthehoesandspearshadbeentakenfromtheslavingpartieswhosecaptivesweliberated；forontheseoccasionsourSennafriendswerealwaysuncommonlyzealousandactive。Theremainderhadbeenpurchasedwiththeoldclotheswehadgiventhemandtheirstoreofhippopotamusmeat:theyhadnofearoflosingthem，orofbeingpunishedforaidingus。Thesystem，inwhichtheyhadbeentrained，haderadicatedtheideaofpersonalresponsibilityfromtheirminds。ThePortugueseslaveholderswouldblametheEnglishalone，theysaid；theywereourservantsatthetime。Nowhitemanonboardcouldpurchasesocheaplyasthesemencould。Manyatimehadtheireloquencepersuadedanativetradertosellforabitofdirtyworncloththingsforwhichhehad，butalittlebefore，refusedtwicetheamountofcleannewcalico。

"Scissors"beingtroubledwithacoughatnight，receivedapresentofaquiltedcoverlet，whichhadseenagooddealofservice。Afewdaysafterwards，agoodchanceofinvestinginhoesofferingitself，herippedoffbothsides，torethemintoadozenpieces，andpurchasedaboutadozenhoeswiththem。

WeenteredtheZambesionthe11thofJanuary，andsteameddowntowardsthecoast，takingthesideonwhichwehadcomeup；butthechannelhadchangedtotheothersideduringthesummer，asitsometimesdoes，andwesoongrounded。APortuguesegentleman，formerlyalieutenantinthearmy，andnowlivingonSangwisa，oneoftheislandsoftheZambesi，cameoverwithhisslaves，toaidusingettingtheshipoff。Hesaidfrankly，thathispeoplewereallgreatthieves，andwemustbeonourguardnottoleaveanythingabout。Henextmadeashortspeechtohismen，toldthemheknewwhatthievestheywere，butimploredthemnottostealfromus，aswewouldgivethemapresentofclothwhentheworkwasdone。"Thenativesofthiscountry，"heremarkedtous，"thinkonlyofthreethings，whattheyshalleatanddrink，howmanywivestheycanhave，andwhattheymaystealfromtheirmaster，ifnothowtheymaymurderhim。”Healwayssleptwithaloadedmusketbyhisside。Thisopinionmayapplytoslaves，butdecidedlydoesnotinourexperienceapplytofreemen。Wepaidhismenforhelpingus，andbelievethateventhey，beingpaid，stolenothingfromus。OurfriendfarmsprettyextensivelythelargeislandcalledSangwisa，——lenthimfornothingbySenhorFerrao，——andraiseslargequantitiesofmapiraandbeans，andalsobeautifulwhiterice，grownfromseedbroughtafewyearsagofromSouthCarolina。Hefurnisheduswithsome，whichwasveryacceptable；forthoughnotinabsolutewant，wewerelivingonbeans，saltpork，andfowls，allthebiscuitandflouronboardhavingbeenexpended。

Wefullyexpectedthattheownersofthecaptiveswehadliberatedwouldshowtheirdispleasure，atleastbytheirtongues；buttheyseemedashamed；onlyoneventuredaremark，andhe，inthecourseofcommonconversation，said，withasmile，"YoutooktheGovernor"sslaves，didn"tyou？""Yes，wedidfreeseveralgangsthatwemetintheManganjacountry。”ThePortugueseofTette，fromtheGovernordownwards，wereextensivelyengagedinslaving。Thetradeispartlyinternalandpartlyexternal:theysendsomeofthecaptives，andthosebought，intotheinterior，uptheZambesi:someoftheseweactuallymetontheirwayuptheriver。Theyoungwomenweresoldthereforivory:anordinary-lookingonebroughttwoarrobas，sixty-

fourpoundsweight，andanextrabeautybroughttwicethatamount。

Themenandboyswerekeptascarriers，totaketheivorydownfromtheinteriortoTette，orwereretainedonfarmsontheZambesi，readyforexportifaslavershouldcall:ofthislastmodeofslavingwewerewitnessesalso。Theslavesweresentdowntheriverchained，andinlargecanoes。ThiswentonopenlyatTette，andmoreespeciallysowhiletheFrench"FreeEmigration"systemwasinfulloperation。Thisdoublemodeofdisposingofthecaptivespaysbetterthanthesinglesystemofsendingthemdowntothecoastforexportation。OnemerchantatTette，withwhomwewerewellacquainted，sentintotheinteriorthreehundredManganjawomentobesoldforivory，andanothersentahundredandfifty。

CHAPTERXI。

ArrivalofH。M。S。"Gorgon"——Dr。Livingstone"snewsteamerandMrs。

Livingstone——DeathofMrs。Livingstone——VoyagetoJohannaandtheRovuma——Anattackuponthe"Pioneer"s"boats。

WeanchoredontheGreatLuabomouthoftheZambesi，becausewoodwasmuchmoreeasilyobtainedtherethanattheKongone。

Onthe30th，H。M。S。"Gorgon"arrived，towingthebrigwhichbroughtMrs。Livingstone，someladiesabouttojointheirrelativesintheUniversities"Mission，andthetwenty-foursectionsofanewironsteamerintendedforthenavigationofLakeNyassa。The"Pioneer"

steamedout，andtowedthebrigintotheKongoneharbour。Thenewsteamerwascalledthe"LadyoftheLake，"orthe"LadyNyassa，"andasmuchascouldbecarriedofherinonetripwasplaced，bythehelpoftheofficersandmenofthe"Gorgon，"onboardthe"Pioneer，"

andthetwolargepaddle-boxboatsofH。M。"sship。WesteamedoffforRuoonthe10thofFebruary，havingonboardCaptainWilson，withanumberofhisofficersandmentohelpustodischargethecargo。