第19章

FlocksofgreenpigeonscomeinApriltofeedontheyoungfruitofthewildfig-trees，whichisalsoeatenbyalargespeciesofbatintheevenings。Theprettylittleblackweaver，withyellowshoulders，appearstoenjoylifeintenselyafterassuminghiswooingdress。A

heartybreakfastiseateninthemorningsandthencomethehoursformakingmerry。Aselectpartyofthreeorfourperchonthebusheswhichskirtasmallgrassyplain，andcheerthemselveswiththemusicoftheirownquietandself-complacentsong。Aplayfulperformanceonthewindsucceeds。Expandinghissoftvelvet-likeplumage，oneglideswithquiveringpinionstothecentreoftheopenspace，singingasheflies，thenturnswitharapidwhirringsoundfromhiswings——somewhatlikeachild"srattle——andreturnstohisplaceagain。Onebyonetheothersperformthesamefeat，andcontinuethesportforhours，strivingwhichcanproducetheloudestbrattlewhileturning。Thesegamesareonlyplayedduringtheseasonofcourtingandofthegayfeathers；themerrimentseemsnevertobethoughtofwhilethebirdwearshiswintersuitofsoberbrown。

WereceivedtwomulesfromtheCapetoaidusintransportingthepiecesofthe"LadyNyassa"pastthecataractsandlandedthematShupanga，buttheysoonperished。APortuguesegentlemankindlyinformedus，AFTERboththemulesweredead，thatheknewtheywoulddie；forthelandtherehadbeenoftentried，andnothingwouldliveonit——notevenapig。Hesaidhehadnottoldussobefore，becausehedidnotliketoappearofficious!

Bythetimeeverythinghadbeenplacedonboardthe"LadyNyassa，"

thewatersoftheZambesiandtheShirehadfallensolowthatitwasuselesstoattempttakingheruptothecataractsbeforetherainsinDecember。Draughtoxenandprovisionsalsowererequired，andcouldnotbeobtainednearerthantheIslandofJohanna。ThePortuguese，withoutrefusingpositivelytolettradeentertheZambesi，threwimpedimentsintheway；theyonlywantedasmallduty!Theywereabouttoestablishariverpolice，andrearrangetheCrownlands，whichhavelongsincebecomeZululands；meanwhiletheyweremakingtheZambesi，byslaving，ofnovaluetoanyone。

TheRovuma，whichwasreportedtocomefromLakeNyassa，beingoutoftheirclaimsandafreeriver，wedeterminedtoexploreitinourboatsimmediatelyonourreturnfromJohanna，forwhichplace，aftersomedelayattheKongone，inrepairingengines，paddle-wheel，andrudder，wesailedonthe6thofAugust。AstoreofnavalprovisionshadbeenformedonahulkinPomoneBayofthatislandforthesupplyofthecruisers，andwasinchargeofMr。Sunley，theConsul，fromwhomwealwaysreceivedthekindestattentionsandassistance。Henowobligedusbypartingwithsixoxen，trainedforhisownuseinsugar-making。Thoughsadlyhamperedinhisundertakingbybeingobligedtoemployslavelabour，hehasbyindomitableenergyovercomeobstaclesunderwhichmostpersonswouldhavesunk。Hehasdoneallthatunderthecircumstancescouldbedonetoinfuseadesireforfreedom，bypayingregularwages；andhasestablishedalargefactory，andbrought300acresofrichsoilundercultivationwithsugar-cane。Wetrusthewillrealizethefortunewhichhesowelldeservestoearn。HadMr。Sunleyperformedthesameexperimentonthemainland，wherepeoplewouldhaveflockedtohimforthewageshenowgives，hewouldcertainlyhaveinauguratedaneweraontheEastCoastofAfrica。Onasmallislandwheretheslaveholdershavecompletepowerovertheslaves，andwherethereisnofreesoilsuchasiseverywheremetwithinAfrica，theexperimentoughtnottoberepeated。WereMr。Sunleycommencingagain，itshouldneitherbeinZanzibarnorJohanna，butonAfricansoil，where，ifevenaslaveisill-treated，hecaneasilybyflightbecomefree。OnanislandundernativeruleajointmanufacturebyArabsandEnglishmenmightonlymeanthatthelatterweretoescapetheodiumoffloggingtheslaves。

OnleavingJohannaandouroxenforatime，H。M。S。"Orestes"towedusthencetothemouthoftheRovumaatthebeginningofSeptember。

CaptainGardner，hercommander，andseveralofhisofficers，accompaniedusuptheriverfortwodaysinthegigandcutter。Thewaterwasunusuallylow，anditwasratherdullworkforafewhoursinthemorning；butthescenebecamelivelierandmoreanimatedwhenthebreezebegantoblow。Ourfourboatstheysweptonunderfullsail，themenonthelookoutinthegigandcuttercalling，"Port，sir!""Starboard，sir!""Asyougo，sir!"whiletheblackmeninthebowsoftheothersshoutedthepracticalequivalents，"Pagombe!

Pagombe!""Endaquete!""Berane!Berane!"Presentlytheleading-

boattouchesonasandbank；downcomestheflutteringsail；themenjumpouttoshoveheroff，andtheotherboats，shunningtheobstruction，shootonaheadtobebroughtupeachinitsturnbymistakingasandbankforthechannel，whichhadoftenbutaverylittledepthofwater。

Adrowsyherdofhippopotamiweresuddenlystartledbyascoreofrifle-shots，andstaredinamazementatthestrangeobjectswhichhadinvadedtheirpeacefuldomains，untilafewmorebulletscompelledthemtoseekrefugeatthebottomofthedeeppool，nearwhichtheyhadbeenquietlyreposing。Onourreturn，oneoftheherdretaliated。Hefollowedtheboat，cameupunderit，andtwicetriedtotearthebottomoutofit；butfortunatelyitwastooflatforhisjawstogetagoodgrip，sohemerelydamagedoneoftheplankswithhistusks，thoughheliftedtheboatrightup，withtenmenandatonofebonyinit。

Weslept，oneofthetwonightsCaptainGardnerwaswithus，oppositethelakeletChidia，whichisconnectedwiththeriverinfloodtime，andisnearlysurroundedbyhillssome500or600feethigh，dottedoverwithtrees。Afewsmallgroupsofhutsstoodonthehill-sides，withgardensoffwhichtheusualnativeproducehadbeenreaped。Thepeopledidnotseemmuchalarmedbythepresenceofthelargepartywhichhaddrawnuponthesandbanksbelowtheirdwellings。Thereisabundanceoflargeebonyintheneighbourhood。Theprettylittleantelope(Cephalophuscaeruleus)，aboutthesizeofahare，seemedtoabound，asmanyoftheirskinswereofferedforsale。Neatfigureddate-leafmatsofvariouscoloursarewovenhere，thedifferentdyesbeingobtainedfromthebarksoftrees。CattlecouldnotliveonthebanksoftheRovumaonaccountofthetsetse，whicharefoundfromnearthemouth，upasfaraswecouldtaketheboats。Thenavigationdidnotimproveasweascended；snags，broughtdownbythefloods，werecommon，andleftinthechannelonthesuddensubsidenceofthewater。Inmanyplaces，wheretheriverdividedintotwoorthreechannels，therewasnotwaterenoughinanyofthemforaboatdrawingthreefeet，sowehadtodragoursovertheshoals；butwesawtheriveratitsverylowest，anditmaybeyearsbeforeitissodriedupagain。

ThevalleyoftheRovuma，boundedoneachsidebyarangeofhighlands，isfromtwotofourmilesinwidth，andcomesinaprettystraightcoursefromtheW。S。W。；butthechanneloftheriveriswinding，andnowatitslowestzigzaggedsoperversely，thatfrequentlytheboatshadtopassoverthreemilestomakeoneinastraightline。Withafullstreamitmustofcoursebemucheasierwork。Fewnativeswereseenduringthefirstweek。Theirvillagesareconcealedinthethickjungleonthehill-sides，forprotectionfrommaraudingslave-parties。Notmuchofinterestwasobservedonthispartofthesilentandshallowriver。Thoughfeelingconvincedthatitwasunfitfornavigation，exceptforeightmonthsoftheyear，wepushedon，resolvedtoseeif，furtherinland，theaccountswehadreceivedfromdifferentnavalofficersofitsgreatcapabilitieswouldprovecorrect；orif，bycommunicationwithLakeNyassa，eventheupperpartcouldbeturnedtoaccount。Ourexplorationshowedusthatthegreatestprecautionisrequiredinthosewhovisitnewcountries。

Thereportswereceivedfromgentlemen，whohadenteredtheriverandwerewellqualifiedtojudge，werethattheRovumawasinfinitelysuperiortotheZambesi，intheabsenceofanybaratitsmouth，initsgreatervolumeofwater，andinthebeautyoftheadjacentlands。

Weprobablycameatadifferentseasonfromthatinwhichtheyvisitedit，andouraccountoughttobetakenwiththeirstoarriveatthetruth。Itmightbeavailableasahighwayforcommerceduringthreequartersofeachyear；butcasualvisitors，likeourselvesandothers，areallillabletodecide。Theabsenceofanimallifewasremarkable。Occasionallywesawpairsofthestatelyjabirus，oradjutant-lookingmarabouts，wadingamongtheshoals，andspur-wingedgeese，andotherwater-fowl，buttherewasscarcelyacrocodileorahippopotamustobeseen。

Attheendofthefirstweek，anoldmancalledatourcamp，andsaidhewouldsendapresentfromhisvillage，whichwasupamongthehills。Heappearednextmorningwithanumberofhispeople，bringingmeal，cassava-root，andyams。ThelanguagediffersconsiderablyfromthatontheZambesi，butitisofthesamefamily。

ThepeopleareMakonde，andareonfriendlytermswiththeMabiha，andtheMakoa，wholivesouthoftheRovuma。Whentakingawalkuptheslopesofthenorthbank，wefoundagreatvarietyoftreeswehadseennowhereelse。Thoseusuallymetwithfarinlandseemheretoapproachthecoast。Africanebony，generallynamedmpingu，isabundantwithineightmilesofthesea；itattainsalargersize，andhasmoreoftheinteriorblackwoodthanusual。Agoodtimbertreecalledmosokoisalsofound；andwesawhalf-casteArabsnearthecoastcuttingupalargelogofitintoplanks。Beforereachingthetopoftherisewewereinaforestofbamboos。Ontheplateauabove，largepatcheswereclearedandcultivated。Amaninvitedustotakeacupofbeer；onourcomplyingwithhisrequest，thefearpreviouslyshownbythebystandersvanished。OurMazaromencouldhardlyunderstandwhattheysaid。Someofthemwadedintheriverandcaughtacuriousfishinholesintheclaybank。Itsventralfinispeculiar，beingunusuallylarge，andofacircularshape，likeboys"playthingscalled"suckers。”WeweretoldthatthisfishisfoundalsointheZambesi，andiscalledChirire。Thoughallitsfinsarelarge，itisassertedthatitrarelyventuresoutintothestream，butremainsnearitshole，whereitisreadilycaughtbythehand。

TheZambesimenthoroughlyunderstoodthecharacteristicmarksofdeeporshallowwater，andshowedgreatskillinfindingouttheproperchannel。TheMolimoisthesteersmanatthehelm，theMokadamoistheheadcanoe-man，andhestandserectonthebowswithalongpoleinhishands，anddirectsthesteersmanwheretogo，aidingtherudder，ifnecessary，withhispole。Theotherspreferredtostandandpuntourboat，ratherthanrowwithourlongoars，beingabletoshoveheraheadfasterthantheycouldpullher。Theyareaccustomedtoshortpaddles。OurMokadamowasaffectedwithmoon-

blindness，andcouldnotseeatallatnight。Hiscomradesthenledhimabout，andhandedhimhisfood。Theythoughtthatitwasonlybecausehiseyesrestedallnight，thathecouldseethechannelsowellbyday。AtdifficultplacestheMokadamosometimes，however，mademistakes，andranusaground；andtheothers，evidentlyimbuedwiththespiritofresistancetoconstitutedauthority，andledbyJoaoanaspirantfortheoffice，jeeredhimforhisstupidity。"Washeasleep？Whydidheallowtheboattocomethere？Couldhenotseethechannelwassomewhereelse？"AtlasttheMokadamothrewdownthepoleindisgust，andtoldJoaohemightbeaMokadamohimself。

Theofficewasacceptedwithalacrity；butinafewminuteshetooranusintoaworsedifficultythanhispredecessoreverdid，andwasatoncedisratedamidstthederisionofhiscomrades。

Onthe16thSeptember，wearrivedattheinhabitedislandofKichokomane。Theusualwayofapproachinganunknownpeopleistocalloutinacheerfultone"Malonda!"Thingsforsale，ordoyouwanttosellanything？Ifwecanobtainamanfromthelastvillage，heisemployed，thoughonlyusefulinexplainingtothenextthatwecomeinafriendlyway。Thepeopleherewereshyofusatfirst，andcouldnotbeinducedtosellanyfood；untilawoman，moreadventurousthantherest，soldusafowl。Thisopenedthemarket，andcrowdscamewithfowlsandmeal，farbeyondourwants。ThewomenareasuglyasthoseonLakeNyassa，forwhocanbehandsomewearingthepelele，orupper-lipring，oflargedimensions？Wewereoncesurprisedtoseeyoungmenwearingthepelele，andweretoldthatinthetribeoftheMabiha，onthesouthbank，menaswellaswomenworethem。

Alongtheleftbank，aboveKichokomane，isanexceedinglyfertileplain，nearlytwomilesbroad，andstuddedwithanumberofdesertedvillages。Theinhabitantswerelivingintemporaryhutsonlownakedsandbanks；andwefoundthistobethecaseasfaraswewent。Theyleavemostoftheirpropertyandfoodbehind，becausetheyarenotafraidofthesebeingstolen，butonlyfearbeingstolenthemselves。

Thegreatslave-routefromNyassatoKilwapassestoN。E。fromS。W。，justbeyondthem；anditisdangeroustoremainintheirvillagesatthistimeofyear，whenthekidnappersareabroad。Inoneofthetemporaryvillages，wesaw，inpassing，twohumanheadslyingontheground。Wesleptacoupleofmilesabovethisvillage。

Beforesunrisenextmorning，alargepartyarmedwithbowsandarrowsandmusketscametothecamp，twoorthreeofthemhavingafowleach，whichwerefusedtopurchase，havingboughtenoughthedaybefore。Theyfollowedusallthemorning，andafterbreakfastthoseontheleftbankswamacrossandjoinedthemainpartyontheotherside。Itwasevidentlytheirintentiontoattackusatachosenspot，wherewehadtopassclosetoahighbank，buttheirplanwasfrustratedbyastiffbreezesweepingtheboatpast，beforethemajoritycouldgettotheplace。Theydisappearedthen，butcameoutagainaheadofus，onahighwoodedbank，walkingrapidlytothebend，nearwhichwewereobligedtosail。Anarrowwasshotattheforemostboat；andseeingtheforceatthebend，wepushedoutfromtheside，asfarastheshoalwaterwouldpermit，andtriedtobringthemtoaparley，bydeclaringthatwehadnotcometofight，buttoseetheriver。"Whydidyoufireagun，alittlewhileago？"theyasked。"Weshotalargepuff-adder，topreventitfromkillingmen；

youmayseeitlyingdeadonthebeach。”Withgreatcourage，ourMokadamowadedtowithinthirtyyardsofthebank，andspokewithmuchearnestness，assuringthemthatwewereapeaceableparty，andhadnotcomeforwar，buttoseetheriver。Wewerefriends，andourcountrymenboughtcottonandivory，andwishedtocomeandtradewiththem。Allwewantedwastogoupquietlytolookattheriver，andthenreturntothesea。Whilehewastalkingwiththoseontheshore，theoldrogue，whoappearedtobetheringleader，stoleupthebank，andwithadozenothers，wadedacrosstotheisland，nearwhichtheboatslay，andcamedownbehindus。Wildwithexcitement，theyrushedintothewater，anddancedinourrear，withdrawnbows，takingaim，andmakingvarioussavagegesticulations。Theirleaderurgedthemtogetbehindsomesnags，andthenshootatus。Thepartyonthebankinfronthadmanymuskets——andthoseofthem，whohadbows，heldthemwitharrowsreadysetinthebowstrings。Theyhadamassofthickbushandtreesbehindthem，intowhichtheycouldinamomentdart，afterdischargingtheirmusketsandarrows，andbecompletelyhiddenfromoursight；acircumstancethatalwaysgivespeoplewhousebowsandarrowsthegreatestconfidence。

Notwithstandingthesedemonstrations，wewereexceedinglyloathtocometoblows。Wespentafullhalf-hourexposedatanymomenttobestruckbyabulletorpoisonedarrow。Weexplainedthatwewerebetterarmedthantheywere，andhadplentyofammunition，thesuspectedwantofwhichofteninspiresthemwithcourage，butthatwedidnotwishtoshedthebloodofthechildrenofthesameGreatFatherwithourselves；thatifwemustfight，theguiltwouldbealltheirs。

Thisbeingacommonmodeofexpostulationamongthemselves，wesofarsucceeded，thatwithgreatpersuasiontheleaderandotherslaiddowntheirarms，andwadedoverfromthebanktotheboatstotalkthematterover。"Thiswastheirriver；theydidnotallowwhitementouseit。Wemustpaytollforleavetopass。”Itwassomewhathumiliatingtodoso，butitwaspayorfight；and，ratherthanfight，wesubmittedtothehumiliationofpayingfortheirfriendship，andgavethemthirtyyardsofcloth。Theypledgedthemselvestobeourfriendseverafterwards，andsaidtheywouldhavefoodcookedforusonourreturn。Wethenhoistedsail，andproceeded，gladthattheaffairhadbeenamicablysettled。Thoseonshorewalkeduptothebendabovetolookattheboat，aswesupposed；butthemomentshewasabreastofthem，theygaveusavolleyofmusket-ballsandpoisonedarrows，withoutawordofwarning。Fortunatelyweweresonear，thatallthearrowspassedclearoverus，butfourmusket-ballswentthroughthesailjustaboveourheads。Allourassailantsboltedintothebushesandlonggrasstheinstantafterfiring，savetwo，oneofwhomwasabouttodischargeamusketandtheotheranarrow，whenarrestedbythefireofthesecondboat。Notoneofthemshowedtheirfacesagain，tillwewereathousandyardsaway。Afewshotswerethenfiredovertheirheads，togivethemanideaoftherangeofourrifles，andtheyallfledintothewoods。Thoseonthesandbankrushedofftoo，withtheutmostspeed；butastheyhadnotshotatus，wedidnotmolestthem，andtheywentoffsafelywiththeircloth。Theyprobablyexpectedtokilloneofournumber，andintheconfusionrobtheboats。ItisonlywherethepeopleareslaversthatthenativesofthispartofAfricaarebloodthirsty。

Thesepeoplehaveabadnameinthecountryinfront，evenamongtheirowntribe。Aslave-tradingArabwemetabove，thinkingwewerethenonourwaydowntheriver，advisedusnottolandatthevillages，buttostayintheboats，astheinhabitantsweretreacherous，andattackedatonce，withoutanywarningorprovocation。Ourexperienceoftheirconductfullyconfirmedthetruthofwhathesaid。Therewasnotradeontheriverwheretheylived，butbeyondthatparttherewasabriskcanoe-tradeinriceandsalt；thosefurtherintheinteriorcultivatingrice，andsendingitdowntherivertobeexchangedforsalt，whichisextractedfromtheearthincertainplacesonthebanks。Ourassailantshardlyanticipatedresistance，andtoldaneighbouringchiefthat，iftheyhadknownwhowewere，theywouldnothaveattackedEnglish，whocan"bitehard。”Theyofferednomolestationsonourwaydown，thoughwewereanhourinpassingtheirvillage。Ourcanoe-menpluckedupcourageonfindingthatwehadcomeoffunhurt。Oneofthem，namedChiku，acknowledgingthathehadbeenterriblyfrightened，said。

"Hisfearwasnotthekindwhichmakesamanjumpoverboardandrunaway；butthatwhichbringstheheartuptothemouth，andrendersthemanpowerless，andnomoreabletofightthanawoman。”

InthecountryofChongaMichi，about80or90milesuptheriver，wefounddecentpeople，thoughofthesametribe，whotreatedstrangerswithcivility。AbodyofMakoahadcomefromtheirowncountryinthesouth，andsettledhere。TheMakoaareknownbyacicatriceintheforeheadshapedlikethenewmoonwiththehornsturneddownwards。ThetribepossessesallthecountrywestofMosambique；

andtheywillnotallowanyofthePortuguesetopassintotheircountrymorethantwohours"distancefromthefort。Ahillsometenortwelvemilesdistant，calledPau，hasbeenvisitedduringthepresentgenerationonlybyonePortugueseandoneEnglishofficer，andthisvisitwasaccomplishedonlybytheinfluenceoftheprivatefriendshipofachiefforthisPortuguesegentleman。OurallieshaveoccupiedtheFortofMosambiqueforthreehundredyears，butinthis，asinallothercases，havenopowerfurtherthantheycanseefromagun-carriage。

TheMakoachief，Matingula，washospitableandcommunicative，tellingusallheknewoftheriverandcountrybeyond。HehadbeenoncetoIboeandonceatMosambiquewithslaves。Ourmenunderstoodhislanguageeasily。Auselessmuskethehadboughtatoneoftheaboveplaceswasofferedusforalittlecloth。Havingreceivedapresentoffoodfromhim，arailwayrugwashandedtohim:helookedatit——

hadneverseenclothlikethatbefore——didnotapproveofit，andwouldratherhavecottoncloth。"Butthiswillkeepyouwarmatnight。”——"Oh，Idonotwishtobekeptwarmatnight。”——Wegavehimabitofcottoncloth，notone-thirdthevalueoftherug，butitwasmorehighlyprized。Hispeoplerefusedtoselltheirfowlsforoursplendidprintsanddrabcloths。Theyhadprobablybeentakeninwithgaudy-patternedshamprintsbefore。Theypreferredaverycheap，plain，bluestuffofwhichtheyhadexperience。Agreatquantityofexcellenthoneyiscollectedallalongtheriver，bybarkhivesbeingplacedforthebeesonthehightreesonbothbanks。

Largepotsofit，verygoodandclear，wereofferedinexchangeforaverylittlecloth。Nowaxwasbroughtforsale；therebeingnomarketforthiscommodity，itisprobablythrownawayasuseless。

AtMichiwelosethetablelandwhich，uptothispoint，boundstheviewonbothsidesoftheriver，asitwere，withrangesofflat-

toppedhills，600or800feethigh；andtothisplateaualevelfertileplainsucceeds，onwhichstanddetachedgranitehills。Thatportionofthetablelandontherightbankseemstobendawaytothesouth，stillpreservingtheappearanceofahillrange。Theheightoppositeextendsafewmilesfurtherwest，andthenbranchesoffinanortherlydirection。Afewsmallpiecesofcoalwerepickeduponthesandbanks，showingthatthisusefulmineralexistsontheRovuma，oronsomeofitstributaries:thenativesknowthatitwillburn。

AtthelakeletChidia，wenoticedthesamesandstonerock，withfossilwoodonit，whichwehaveontheZambesi，andknewtobeasureevidenceofcoalbeneath。WementionedthisatthetimetoCaptainGardner，andourfindingcoalnowseemedaverificationofwhatwethensaid；thecoal-fieldprobablyextendsfromtheZambesitotheRovuma，ifnotbeyondit。Someoftherockslowerdownhavethepermanentwater-linethreefeetabovethepresentheightofthewater。

AfewmileswestoftheMakoaofMatingula，wecameagainamongtheMakonde，butnowofgoodrepute。Warandslaveryhavedriventhemtoseekrefugeonthesand-banks。Avenerable-lookingoldmanhailedusaswepassed，andaskedusifweweregoingbywithoutspeaking。Welanded，andhelaiddownhisgunandcametous；hewasaccompaniedbyhisbrother，whoshookhandswitheveryoneintheboat，ashehadseenpeopledoatKilwa。"Thenyouhaveseenwhitemenbefore？"wesaid。"Yes，"repliedthepoliteAfrican，"butneverpeopleofyourquality。”Thesemenwereveryblack，andworebutlittleclothing。

Ayoungwoman，dressedinthehigheststyleofMakondefashion，puntingasdexterouslyasamancould，broughtacanoefullofgirlstoseeus。Sheworeanornamentalhead-dressofredbeadstiedtoherhairononesideofherhead，anecklaceoffinebeadsofvariouscolours，twobrightfiguredbrassbraceletsonherleftarm，andscarcelyafarthing"sworthofcloth，thoughitwasatitscheapest。

Aswepushedonwestwards，wefoundthattherivermakesalittlesouthing，andsomereachesweredeeperthananynearthesea；butwhenwehadascendedabout140milesbytheriver"scoursefromthesea，softtufarocksbegantoappear；tenmilesbeyond，theriverbecamemorenarrowandrocky，andwhen，accordingtoourmeasurement，wehadascended156miles，ourfurtherprogresswasarrested。WewereratherlessthantwodegreesinastraightlinefromtheCoast。

Theincidentsworthnoticingwerebutfew:sevencanoeswithloadsofsaltandricekeptcompanywithusforsomedays，andthefurtherwewentinland，themorecivilthepeoplebecame。

Whenwecametoastand，justbelowtheislandofNyamatolo，Long。38

degrees36minutesE。，andLat。11degrees53minutes，theriverwasnarrow，andfullofrocks。Neartheislandthereisarockyrapidwithnarrowpassagesfitonlyfornativecanoes；thefallissmall，andthebanksquitelow；buttheserockswereaneffectualbarriertoallfurtherprogressinboats。Previousreportsrepresentedthenavigablepartofthisriverasextendingtothedistanceofamonth"ssailfromitsmouth；wefoundthat，attheordinaryheightsofthewater，aboatmightreachtheobstructionswhichseempeculiartoallAfricanriversinsixoreightdays。TheRovumaisremarkableforthehighlandsthatflankitforsomeeightymilesfromtheocean。Thecataractsofotherriversoccurinmountains，thoseoftheRovumaarefoundinalevelpart，withhillsonlyinthedistance。Farawayinthewestandnorthwecouldseehighblueheights，probablyofigneousoriginfromtheirforms，risingoutofaplain。

ThedistancefromNgomano，aspotthirtymilesfurtherup，totheArabcrossing-placesofLakeNyassaTsengaorKotakotawassaidtobetwelvedays。ThewaywehaddiscoveredtoLakeNyassabyMurchison"sCataractshadsomuchlesslandcarriage，thatweconsidereditbesttotakeoursteamerthither，bytherouteinwhichwewerewellknown，insteadofworkingwherewewerestrangers；andaccordinglywemadeupourmindstoreturn。

Thenativesreportedaworseplaceaboveourturning-point——thepassagebeingstillnarrowerthanthis。AnArab，theysaid，oncebuiltaboatabovetherapids，andsentitdownfullofslaves；butitwasbrokentopiecesintheseuppernarrows。ManystillmaintainedthattheRovumacamefromNyassa，andthatitisverynarrowasitissuesoutofthelake。Onemandeclaredthathehadseenitwithhisowneyesasitleftthelake，andseemeddispleasedatbeingcross-questioned，asifwedoubtedhisveracity。

Moresatisfactoryinformation，asitappearedtous，wasobtainedfromothers。Twodays，orthirtymiles，beyondwhereweturnedback，theRovumaisjoinedbytheLiende，which，comingfromthesouth-

west，risesinthemountainsontheeastsideofNyassa。ThegreatslaveroutetoKilwarunsupthebanksofthisriver，whichisonlyankle-deepatthedryseasonoftheyear。TheRovumaitselfcomesfromtheW。N。W。，andafterthetravellerpassestheconfluenceoftheLiendeatNgomanoor"meeting-place，"thechiefofwhichpartisnamedNdonde，hefindstherivernarrow，andthepeopleAjawa。

CrocodilesintheRovumahaveasorrytimeofit。Neverbeforewerereptilessopersecutedandsnubbed。Theyarehuntedwithspears，andspringtrapsaresetforthem。Ifoneofthementersaninvitingpoolafterfish，hesoonfindsafencethrownroundit，andaspringtrapsetintheonlypathoutoftheenclosure。Theirfleshiseaten，andrelished。Thebanks，onwhichthefemalelayshereggsbynight，arecarefullysearchedbyday，andalltheeggsdugoutanddevoured。Thefish-hawkmakeshavocamongthefewyoungonesthatescapetheirotherenemies。Ourmenwereconstantlyonthelook-outforcrocodiles"nests。Onewasfoundcontainingthirty-fivenewly-

laideggs，andtheydeclaredthatthecrocodilewouldlayasmanymorethesecondnightinanotherplace。Theeggswereafootdeepinthesandonthetopofabanktenfeethigh。Theanimaldigsaholewithitsfoot，coverstheeggs，andleavesthemtilltheriverrisesoverthenestinaboutthreemonthsafterwards，whenshecomesback，andassiststheyoungonesout。WeoncesawoppositeTetteyoungcrocodilesinDecember，swimmingbesideanislandincompanywithanoldone。Theyolkoftheeggisnearlyaswhiteastherealwhite。

Intastetheyresemblehen"seggswithperhapsasmackofcustard，andwouldbeashighlyrelishedbywhitesasbyblacks，wereitnotfortheirunsavouryorigininmen-eaters。

HuntingtheSenze(AulacodusSwindernianus)，ananimalthesizeofalargecat，butinshapemorelikeapig，wasthechiefbusinessofmenandboysaswepassedthereedybanksandlowislands。Theysetfiretoamassofreeds，and，armedwithsticks，spears，bowsandarrows，standingroupsguardingtheoutletsthroughwhichthesearedSenzemayrunfromtheapproachingflames。Darkdensevolumesofimpenetrablesmokenowrolloverontheleesideoftheislet，andshroudthehunters。Attimesvastsheetsofluridflamesburstingforth，roaring，cracklingandexploding，leapwildlyfarabovethetallreeds。Outrushtheterrifiedanimals，andamidthesmokeareseentheexcitedhuntersdancingaboutwithfranticgesticulations，andhurlingstick，spear，andarrowattheirburnedoutvictims。

Kiteshoveroverthesmoke，readytopounceonthemantisandlocustsastheyspringfromthefire。Smallcrowsandhundredsofswallowsareoneagerwing，dartingintothesmokeandoutagain，seizingfugitiveflies。Scoresofinsects，intheirhastetoescapefromthefire，jumpintotheriver，andtheactivefishenjoyararefeast。

Wereturnedtothe"Pioneer"onthe9thofOctober，havingbeenawayonemonth。Theship"scompanyhaduseddistilledwater，acondenserhavingbeensentoutfromEngland；andtherehadnotbeenasinglecaseofsicknessonboardsinceweleft，thoughthereweresomanycasesoffeverthefewdaysshelayinthesamespotlastyear。Ourboatpartydrankthewateroftheriver，andthethreewhitesailors，whohadneverbeeninanAfricanriverbefore，hadsomeslightattacksoffever。

CHAPTERXII。

ReturntotheZambesi——BishopMackenzie"sgrave——Frightfulsceneswithcrocodiles——DeathofMr。Thornton——Africanpoisons——RecalloftheExpedition。

Weputtoseaonthe18thofOctober，and，againtouchingatJohanna，obtainedacrewofJohannamenandsomeoxen，andsailedfortheZambesi；butourfuelfailingbeforewereachedit，andthewindbeingcontrary，weranintoQuillimaneforwood。

Quillimanemusthavebeenbuiltsolelyforthesakeofcarryingontheslave-trade，fornomaninhissenseswouldeverhavedreamedofplacingavillageonsuchalow，muddy，fever-haunted，andmosquito-

swarmingsite，haditnotbeenforthefacilitiesitaffordedforslaving。Thebarmayatspringsandfloodsbeeasilycrossedbysailing-vessels，but，beingfarfromtheland，itisalwaysdangerousforboats。Slaves，underthenameof"freeemigrants，"havegonebythousandsfromQuillimane，duringthelastsixyears，totheportsalittletothesouth，particularlytoMassangano。Someexcellentbrick-housesstillstandintheplace，andtheownersaregenerousandhospitable:amongthemourgoodfriend，ColonelNunez。Hisdisinterestedkindnesstousandtoallourcountrymencanneverbeforgotten。Heisanobleexampleofwhatenergyanduprightnessmayaccomplishevenhere。Hecameoutasacabin-boy，and，withoutasinglefriendtohelphim，hehasperseveredinanhonourablecourseuntilheistherichestmanontheEastCoast。WhenDr。LivingstonecamedowntheZambesiin1856，ColonelNunezwasthechiefoftheonlyfourhonourable，trustworthymeninthecountry。Butwhilehehasrisenawholeherdhassunk，makingloudlamentations，throughpuffsofcigar-smoke，overnegrolaziness；theymightadd，theirown。

AllagriculturalenterpriseisvirtuallydiscouragedbyQuillimaneGovernment。AmanmustpurchaseapermitfromtheGovernor，whenhewishestovisithiscountryfarm；andthistax，inacountrywherelabourisunpopular，causesthefarmstobealmostentirelyleftinthehandsofaheadslave，whomakesreturnstohismasterasinterestorhonestypromptshim。ApassportmustalsobeboughtwheneveramanwishestogouptherivertoMazaro，Senna，orTette，oreventoresideforamonthatQuillimane。Withasoilandaclimatewellsuitedforthegrowthofthecane，abundanceofslavelabour，andwatercommunicationtoanymarketintheworld，theyhavenevermadetheirownsugar。AlltheyuseisimportedfromBombay。

"ThepeopleofQuillimanehavenoenterprise，"saidayoungEuropeanPortuguese，"theydonothing，andarealwayswastingtheirtimeinsuffering，orinrecoveringfromfever。”