第13章

Whenwehadgoneabouttwohundredyards，andstoppedtorest，IglancedtotheleftwhileIwaslightingmypipe，andinthedistancedetectedalongwormofblacksmokecrawlinglazilyupthesteepmountain。Ofcoursethatwasthelocomotive。Weproppedourselvesonourelbowsatonce，togaze，forwehadneverseenamountainrailwayyet。

Presentlywecouldmakeoutthetrain。Itseemedincrediblethatthatthingshouldcreepstraightupasharpslantliketheroofofahouse——butthereitwas，anditwasdoingthatverymiracle。

Inthecourseofacouplehourswereachedafinebreezyaltitudewherethelittleshepherdhutshadbigstonesallovertheirroofstoholdthemdowntotheearthwhenthegreatstormsrage。Thecountrywaswildandrockyabouthere，buttherewereplentyoftrees，plentyofmoss，andgrass。

Awayoffontheoppositeshoreofthelakewecouldseesomevillages，andnowforthefirsttimewecouldobservetherealdifferencebetweentheirproportionsandthoseofthegiantmountainsatwhosefeettheyslept。

Whenoneisinoneofthosevillagesitseemsspacious，anditshousesseemhighandnotoutofproportiontothemountainthatoverhandsthem——butfromouraltitude，whatachange!Themountainswerebiggerandgranderthanever，astheystoodtherethinkingtheirsolemnthoughtswiththeirheadsinthedriftingclouds，butthevillagesattheirfeet——whenthepainstakingeyecouldtracethemupandfindthem——weresoreduced，almostinvisible，andlaysoflatagainsttheground，thattheexactestsimileIcandeviseistocomparethemtoant-depositsofgranulateddirtovershadowedbythehugebulkofacathedral。Thesteamboatsskimmingalongunderthestupendousprecipiceswerediminishedbydistancetothedaintiestlittletoys，thesailboatsandrowboatstoshallopsproperforfairiesthatkeephouseinthecupsofliliesandridetocourtonthebacksofbumblebees。

Presentlywecameuponhalfadozensheepnibblinggrassinthesprayofastreamofclearwaterthatsprangfromarockwallahundredfeethigh，andallatonceourearswerestartledwithamelodious"Lul……

l……lllllul-lul-LAhee-o-o-o!"pealingjoyouslyfromanearbutinvisiblesource，andrecognizedthatwewerehearingforthefirsttimethefamousAlpineJODEL

initsownnativewilds。Andwerecognized，also，thatitwasthatsortofquaintcomminglingofbaritoneandfalsettowhichathomewecall"Tyrolesewarbling。"

Thejodeling(pronouncedyOdling——emphasisontheO)

continued，andwasverypleasantandinspiritingtohear。

Nowthejodelerappeared——ashepherdboyofsixteen——

andinourgladnessandgratitudewegavehimafranctojodelsomemore。Sohejodeledandwelistened。

Wemovedon，presently，andhegenerouslyjodeledusoutofsight。Afteraboutfifteenminuteswecameacrossanothershepherdboywhowasjodeling，andgavehimhalfafranctokeepitup。Healsojodeledusoutofsight。

Afterthat，wefoundajodelereverytenminutes；

wegavethefirstoneeightcents，thesecondonesixcents，thethirdonefour，thefourthoneapenny，contributednothingtoNos。5，6，and7，andduringtheremainderofthedayhiredtherestofthejodelers，atafrancapiece，nottojodelanymore。ThereissomewhattoomuchofthejodelingintheAlps。

AboutthemiddleoftheafternoonwepassedthroughaprodigiousnaturalgatewaycalledtheFelsenthor，formedbytwoenormousuprightrocks，withathirdlyingacrossthetop。Therewasaveryattractivelittlehotelcloseby，butourenergieswerenotconqueredyet，sowewenton。

Threehoursafterwardwecametotherailway-track。Itwasplantedstraightupthemountainwiththeslantofaladderthatleansagainstahouse，anditseemedtousthatmanwouldneedgoodnerveswhoproposedtotravelupitordowniteither。

Duringthelatterpartoftheafternoonwecooledourroastinginteriorswithice-coldwaterfromclearstreams，theonlyreallysatisfyingwaterwehadtastedsincewelefthome，foratthehotelsonthecontinenttheymerelygiveyouatumbleroficetosoakyourwaterin，andthatonlymodifiesitshotness，doesn"tmakeitcold。

Watercanonlybemadecoldenoughforsummercomfortbybeingpreparedinarefrigeratororaclosedice-pitcher。

Europeanssayice-waterimpairsdigestion。Howdotheyknow?——theyneverdrinkany。

AttenminutespastsixwereachedtheKaltbadstation，wherethereisaspacioushotelwithgreatverandaswhichcommandamajesticexpanseoflakeandmountainscenery。

Wewereprettywellfaggedout，now，butaswedidnotwishtomisstheAlpinesunrise，wegotthroughourdinnerasquicklyaspossibleandhurriedofftobed。

Itwasunspeakablycomfortabletostretchourwearylimbsbetweenthecool，dampsheets。Andhowwedidsleep!——forthereisnoopiatelikeAlpinepedestrianism。

Inthemorningwebothawokeandleapedoutofbedatthesameinstantandranandstrippedasidethewindow-curtains；

butwesufferedabitterdisappointmentagain:itwasalreadyhalfpastthreeintheafternoon。

Wedressedsullenlyandinillspirits，eachaccusingtheotherofoversleeping。Harrissaidifwehadbroughtthecourieralong，asweoughttohavedone，weshouldnothavemissedthesesunrises。Isaidheknewverywellthatoneofuswouldhavetositupandwakethecourier；

andIaddedthatwewerehavingtroubleenoughtotakecareofourselves，onthisclimb，withouthavingtotakecareofacourierbesides。

Duringbreakfastourspiritscameupalittle，sincewefoundbythisguide-bookthatinthehotelsonthesummitthetouristisnotlefttotrusttoluckforhissunrise，butisrousedbetimesbyamanwhogoesthroughthehallswithagreatAlpinehorn，blowingblaststhatwouldraisethedead。Andtherewasanotherconsolingthing:

theguide-booksaidthatupthereonthesummittheguestsdidnotwaittodressmuch，butseizedaredbedblanketandsailedoutarrayedlikeanIndian。Thiswasgood；

thiswouldberomantic；twohundredandfiftypeoplegroupedonthewindysummit，withtheirhairflyingandtheirredblanketsflapping，inthesolemnpresenceofthecomingsun，wouldbeastrikingandmemorablespectacle。

Soitwasgoodluck，notillluck，thatwehadmissedthoseothersunrises。

Wewereinformedbytheguide-bookthatwewerenow3，228feetabovethelevelofthelake——thereforefulltwo-thirdsofourjourneyhadbeenaccomplished。

Wegotawayataquarterpastfour，P。M。；ahundredyardsabovethehoteltherailwaydivided；onetrackwentstraightupthesteephill，theotheroneturnedsquareofftotheright，withaveryslightgrade。Wetookthelatter，andfolloweditmorethanamile，turnedarockycorner，andcameinsightofahandsomenewhotel。

Ifwehadgoneon，weshouldhavearrivedatthesummit，butHarrispreferredtoaskalotofquestions——asusual，ofamanwhodidn"tknowanything——andhetoldustogobackandfollowtheotherroute。Wedidso。Wecouldillaffordthislossoftime。

Weclimbedandclimbed；andwekeptonclimbing；wereachedaboutfortysummits，buttherewasalwaysanotheronejustahead。

Itcameontorain，anditrainedindeadearnest。

Weweresoakedthroughanditwasbittercold。Nextasmokyfogofcloudscoveredthewholeregiondensely，andwetooktotherailway-tiestokeepfromgettinglost。

Sometimeswesloppedalonginanarrowpathontheleft-handsideofthetrack，butbyandbywhenthefogblewasasidealittleandwesawthatweweretreadingtherampartofaprecipiceandthatourleftelbowswereprojectingoveraperfectlyboundlessandbottomlessvacancy，wegasped，andjumpedforthetiesagain。

Thenightshutdown，darkanddrizzlyandcold。

Abouteightintheeveningthefogliftedandshowedusawell-wornpathwhichledupaverysteeprisetotheleft。

Wetookit，andassoonaswehadgotfarenoughfromtherailwaytorenderthefindingitagainanimpossibility，thefogshutdownonusoncemore。

Wewereinableak，unshelteredplace，now，andhadtotrudgerightalong，inordertokeepwarm，thoughweratherexpectedtogooveraprecipice，soonerorlater。

Aboutnineo"clockwemadeanimportantdiscovery——

thatwewerenotinanypath。Wegropedaroundawhileonourhandsandknees，butwecouldnotfindit；

sowesatdowninthemudandthewetscantgrasstowait。

Wewereterrifiedintothisbybeingsuddenlyconfrontedwithavastbodywhichshoweditselfvaguelyforaninstantandinthenextinstantwassmotheredinthefogagain。

Itwasreallythehotelwewereafter，monstrouslymagnifiedbythefog，butwetookitforthefaceofaprecipice，anddecidednottotrytoclawupit。

Wesatthereanhour，withchatteringteethandquiveringbodies，andquarreledoverallsortsoftrifles，butgavemostofourattentiontoabusingeachotherforthestupidityofdesertingtherailway-track。Wesatwithourbackstotheprecipice，becausewhatlittlewindtherewascamefromthatquarter。Atsometimeorotherthefogthinnedalittle；wedidnotknowwhen，forwewerefacingtheemptyuniverseandthethinnesscouldnotshow；

butatlastHarrishappenedtolookaround，andtherestoodahuge，dim，spectralhotelwheretheprecipicehadbeen。

Onecouldfaintlydiscernthewindowsandchimneys，andadullbluroflights。Ourfirstemotionwasdeep，unutterablegratitude，ournextwasafoolishrage，bornofthesuspicionthatpossiblythehotelhadbeenvisiblethree-quartersofanhourwhilewesatthereinthosecoldpuddlesquarreling。

Yes，itwastheRigi-Kulmhotel——theonethatoccupiestheextremesummit，andwhoseremotelittlesparkleoflightswehadoftenseenglintinghighaloftamongthestarsfromourbalconyawaydownyonderinLucerne。

Thecrustyportierandthecrustyclerksgaveusthesurlyreceptionwhichtheirkinddealoutinprosperoustimes，butbymollifyingthemwithanextradisplayofobsequiousnessandservilitywefinallygotthemtoshowustotheroomwhichourboyhadengagedforus。

Wegotintosomedryclothing，andwhileoursupperwaspreparingweloafedforsakenlythroughacoupleofvastcavernousdrawing-rooms，oneofwhichhadastoveinit。

Thisstovewasinacorner，anddenselywalledaroundwithpeople。Wecouldnotgetnearthefire，sowemovedatlargeinthearticspaces，amongamultitudeofpeoplewhosatsilent，smileless，forlorn，andshivering——thinkingwhatfoolstheyweretocome，perhaps。ThereweresomeAmericansandsomeGermans，butonecouldseethatthegreatmajoritywereEnglish。

Weloungedintoanapartmentwheretherewasagreatcrowd，toseewhatwasgoingon。Itwasamemento-magazine。

Thetouristswereeagerlybuyingallsortsandstylesofpaper-cutters，marked"SouveniroftheRigi，"withhandlesmadeofthelittlecurvedhornoftheostensiblechamois；

therewereallmannerofwoodengobletsandsuchthings，similarlymarked。Iwasgoingtobuyapaper-cutter，butI

believedIcouldrememberthecoldcomfortoftheRigi-Kulmwithoutit，soIsmotheredtheimpulse。

Supperwarmedus，andwewentimmediatelytobed——butfirst，asMr。Baedekerrequestsalltouriststocallhisattentiontoanyerrorswhichtheymayfindinhisguide-books，I

droppedhimalinetoinformhimhemisseditbyjustaboutthreedays。IhadpreviouslyinformedhimofhismistakeaboutthedistancefromAllerheiligentoOppenau，andhadalsoinformedtheOrdnanceDepartoftheGermangovernmentofthesameerrorintheimperialmaps。

Iwilladd，here，thatInevergotanyanswertothoseletters，oranythanksfromeitherofthosesources；and，whatisstillmorediscourteous，thesecorrectionshavenotbeenmade，eitherinthemapsortheguide-books。ButIwillwriteagainwhenIgettime，formylettersmayhavemiscarried。

Wecurledupintheclammybeds，andwenttosleepwithoutrocking。

WeweresosoddenwithfatiguethatweneverstirrednorturnedovertillthebloomingblastsoftheAlpinehornarousedus。Itmaywellbeimaginedthatwedidnotloseanytime。Wesnatchedonafewoddsandendsofclothing，cocoonedourselvesintheproperredblankets，andplungedalongthehallsandoutintothewhistlingwindbareheaded。

Wesawatallwoodenscaffoldingontheverypeakofthesummit，ahundredyardsaway，andmadeforit。

Werushedupthestairstothetopofthisscaffolding，andstoodthere，abovethevastoutlyingworld，withhairflyingandruddyblanketswavingandcrackinginthefiercebreeze。

"Fifteenminutestoolate，atlast!"saidHarris，inavexedvoice。"Thesunisclearabovethehorizon。"

"Nomatter，"Isaid，"itisamostmagnificentspectacle，andwewillseeitdotherestofitsrisinganyway。"

Inamomentweweredeeplyabsorbedinthemarvelbeforeus，anddeadtoeverythingelse。Thegreatcloud-barreddiskofthesunstoodjustabovealimitlessexpanseoftossingwhite-caps——sotospeak——abillowychaosofmassymountaindomesandpeaksdrapedinimperishablesnow，andfloodedwithanopalinegloryofchanginganddissolvingsplendors，whilethroughriftsinablackcloud-bankabovethesun，radiatinglancesofdiamonddustshottothezenith。

Theclovenvalleysofthelowerworldswaminatintedmistwhichveiledtheruggednessoftheircragsandribsandraggedforests，andturnedalltheforbiddingregionintoasoftandrichandsensuousparadise。

Wecouldnotspeak。Wecouldhardlybreathe。

Wecouldonlygazeindrunkenecstasyanddrinkinit。

PresentlyHarrisexclaimed:

"Why——nation，it"sgoingDOWN!"

Perfectlytrue。WehadmissedtheMORNINGhornblow，andsleptallday。Thiswasstupefying。

Harrissaid:

"Lookhere，thesunisn"tthespectacle——it"sUS——stackeduphereontopofthisgallows，intheseidioticblankets，andtwohundredandfiftywell-dressedmenandwomendownheregawkingupatusandnotcaringastrawwhetherthesunrisesorsets，aslongasthey"vegotsucharidiculousspectacleasthistosetdownintheirmemorandum-books。

Theyseemtobelaughingtheirribsloose，andthere"sonegirlthereatappearstobegoingalltopieces。

Ineversawsuchamanasyoubefore。Ithinkyouaretheverylastpossibilityinthewayofanass。"

"Whathave_I_done?"Ianswered，withheat。

"Whathaveyoudone?"You"vegotupathalfpastseveno"clockintheeveningtoseethesunrise，that"swhatyou"vedone。"

"Andhaveyoudoneanybetter，I"dliketoknow?I"vealwaysusedtogetupwiththelark，tillIcameunderthepetrifyinginfluenceofyourturgidintellect。"

"YOUusedtogetupwiththelark——Oh，nodoubt——

you"llgetupwiththehangmanoneofthesedays。

Butyououghttobeashamedtobejawingherelikethis，inaredblanket，onaforty-footscaffoldontopoftheAlps。Andnoendofpeopledownheretoboot；

thisisn"tanyplaceforanexhibitionoftemper。"

Andsothecustomaryquarrelwenton。Whenthesunwasfairlydown，weslippedbacktothehotelinthecharitablegloaming，andwenttobedagain。Wehadencounteredthehorn-blowerontheway，andhehadtriedtocollectcompensation，notonlyforannouncingthesunset，whichwedidsee，butforthesunrise，whichwehadtotallymissed；butwesaidno，weonlytookoursolarrationsonthe"Europeanplan"——payforwhatyouget。

Hepromisedtomakeushearhishorninthemorning，ifwewerealive。

CHAPTERXXIX

[LookingWestforSunrise]

Hekepthisword。Weheardhishornandinstantlygotup。

Itwasdarkandcoldandwretched。AsIfumbledaroundforthematches，knockingthingsdownwithmyquakinghands，Iwishedthesunwouldriseinthemiddleoftheday，whenitwaswarmandbrightandcheerful，andonewasn"tsleepy。Weproceededtodressbythegloomofacouplesicklycandles，butwecouldhardlybuttonanything，ourhandsshookso。IthoughtofhowmanyhappypeopletherewereinEurope，Asia，andAmerica，andeverywhere，whoweresleepingpeacefullyintheirbeds，anddidnothavetogetupandseetheRigisunrise——peoplewhodidnotappreciatetheiradvantage，aslikeasnot，butwouldgetupinthemorningwantingmoreboonsofProvidence。

WhilethinkingthesethoughtsIyawned，inaratherampleway，andmyupperteethgothitchedonanailoverthedoor，andwhileIwasmountingachairtofreemyself，Harrisdrewthewindow-curtain，andsaid:

"Oh，thisisluck!Weshan"thavetogooutatall——

yonderarethemountains，infullview。"

Thatwasgladnews，indeed。Itmadeuscheerfulrightaway。

OnecouldseethegrandAlpinemassesdimlyoutlinedagainsttheblackfirmament，andoneortwofaintstarsblinkingthroughriftsinthenight。Fullyclothed，andwrappedinblankets，andhuddledourselvesup，bythewindow，withlightedpipes，andfellintochat，whilewewaitedinexceedingcomforttoseehowanAlpinesunrisewasgoingtolookbycandlelight。Byandbyadelicate，spiritualsortofeffulgencespreaditselfbyimperceptibledegreesovertheloftiestaltitudesofthesnowywastes——buttheretheeffortseemedtostop。

Isaid，presently:

"Thereisahitchaboutthissunrisesomewhere。

Itdoesn"tseemtogo。Whatdoyoureckonisthematterwithit?"

"Idon"tknow。Itappearstohangfiresomewhere。

Ineversawasunriseactlikethatbefore。Canitbethatthehotelisplayinganythingonus?"

"Ofcoursenot。Thehotelmerelyhasapropertyinterestinthesun，ithasnothingtodowiththemanagementofit。

Itisaprecariouskindofproperty，too；asuccessionoftotaleclipseswouldprobablyruinthistavern。

Nowwhatcanbethematterwiththissunrise?"

Harrisjumpedupandsaid:

"I"vegotit!Iknowwhat"sthematterwithit!We"vebeenlookingattheplacewherethesunSETlastnight!"

"Itisperfectlytrue!Whycouldn"tyouhavethoughtofthatsooner?Nowwe"velostanotherone!Andallthroughyourblundering。Itwasexactlylikeyoutolightapipeandsitdowntowaitforthesuntoriseinthewest。"

"Itwasexactlylikemetofindoutthemistake，too。

Youneverwouldhavefounditout。Ifindoutallthemistakes。"

"Youmakethemall，too，elseyourmostvaluablefacultywouldbewastedonyou。Butdon"tstoptoquarrel，now——maybewearenottoolateyet。"

Butwewere。Thesunwaswellupwhenwegottotheexhibition-ground。

Onourwayupwemetthecrowdreturning——menandwomendressedinallsortsofqueercostumes，andexhibitingalldegreesofcoldandwretchednessintheirgaitsandcountenances。Adozenstillremainedonthegroundwhenwereachedthere，huddledtogetheraboutthescaffoldwiththeirbackstothebitterwind。Theyhadtheirredguide-booksopenatthediagramoftheview，andwerepainfullypickingouttheseveralmountainsandtryingtoimpresstheirnamesandpositionsontheirmemories。

ItwasoneofthesaddestsightsIeversaw。

Twosidesofthisplacewereguardedbyrailings，tokeeppeoplefrombeingblownovertheprecipices。

Theview，lookingsheerdownintothebroadvalley，eastward，fromthisgreatelevation——almostaperpendicularmile——wasveryquaintandcurious。Counties，towns，hillyribsandridges，widestretchesofgreenmeadow，greatforesttracts，windingstreams，adozenbluelakes，ablockofbusysteamboats——wesawallthislittleworldinuniquecircumstantialityofdetail——sawitjustasthebirdsseeit——andallreducedtothesmallestofscalesandassharplyworkedoutandfinishedasasteelengraving。Thenumeroustoyvillages，withtinyspiresprojectingoutofthem，werejustasthechildrenmighthaveleftthemwhendonewithplaythedaybefore；

theforesttractswerediminishedtocushionsofmoss；

oneortwobiglakesweredwarfedtoponds，thesmalleronestopuddles——thoughtheydidnotlooklikepuddles，butlikeblueeardropswhichhadfallenandlodgedinslightdepressions，conformabletotheirshapes，amongthemoss-bedsandthesmoothlevelsofdaintygreenfarm-land；themicroscopicsteamboatsglidedalong，asinacityreservoir，takingamightytimetocoverthedistancebetweenportswhichseemedonlyayardapart；

andtheisthmuswhichseparatedtwolakeslookedasifonemightstretchoutonitandliewithbothelbowsinthewater，yetweknewinvisiblewagonsweretoilingacrossitandfindingthedistanceatediousone。

Thisbeautifulminiatureworldhadexactlytheappearanceofthose"reliefmaps"whichreproducenatureprecisely，withtheheightsanddepressionsandotherdetailsgraduatedtoareducedscale，andwiththerocks，trees，lakes，etc。，coloredafternature。

IbelievedwecouldwalkdowntoWa"ggisorVitznauinaday，butIknewwecouldgodownbyrailinaboutanhour，soIchosethelattermethod。Iwantedtoseewhatitwaslike，anyway。Thetraincamealongaboutthemiddleoftheafternoon，andanoddthingitwas。

Thelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotive-boilerstoodonend，anditandthewholelocomotiveweretiledsharplybackward。Thereweretwopassenger-cars，roofed，butwideopenallaround。

Thesecarswerenottiltedback，buttheseatswere；

thisenablesthepassengertositlevelwhilegoingdownasteepincline。

Therearethreerailway-tracks；thecentraloneiscogged；

the"lanternwheel"oftheenginegripsitswayalongthesecogs，andpullsthetrainupthehillorretardsitsmotiononthedowntrip。Aboutthesamespeed——threemilesanhour——ismaintainedbothways。Whethergoingupordown，thelocomotiveisalwaysatthelowerendofthetrain。

Itpushesintheonecase，bracesbackintheother。

Thepassengerridesbackwardgoingup，andfacesforwardgoingdown。

Wegotfrontseats，andwhilethetrainmovedalongaboutfiftyyardsonlevelground，Iwasnottheleastfrightened；butnowitstartedabruptlydownstairs，andIcaughtmybreath。AndI，likemyneighbors，unconsciouslyheldbackallIcould，andthrewmyweighttotherear，but，ofcourse，thatdidnoparticulargood。

IhadsliddendownthebalusterswhenIwasaboy，andthoughtnothingofit，buttoslidedownthebalustersinarailway-trainisathingtomakeone"sfleshcreep。

Sometimeswehadasmuchastenyardsofalmostlevelground，andthisgaveusafewfullbreathsincomfort；

butstraightwaywewouldturnacornerandseealongsteeplineofrailsstretchingdownbelowus，andthecomfortwasatanend。Oneexpectedtoseethelocomotivepause，orslackupalittle，andapproachthisplungecautiously，butitdidnothingofthekind；itwentcalmlyon，andwentitreachedthejumping-offplaceitmadeasuddenbow，andwentglidingsmoothlydownstairs，untroubledbythecircumstances。

Itwaswildlyexhilaratingtoslidealongtheedgeoftheprecipices，afterthisgrislyfashion，andlookstraightdownuponthatfar-offvalleywhichIwasdescribingawhileago。

TherewasnolevelgroundattheKaltbadstation；

therailbedwasassteepasaroof；Iwascurioustoseehowthestopwasgoingtobemanaged。

Butitwasverysimple；thetraincameslidingdown，andwhenitreachedtherightspotitjuststopped——thatwasalltherewas"toit"——stoppedonthesteepincline，andwhentheexchangeofpassengersandbaggagehadbeenmade，itmovedoffandwentslidingdownagain。

Thetraincanbestoppedanywhere，atamoment"snotice。

Therewasonecuriouseffect，whichIneednottakethetroubletodescribe——becauseIcanscissoradescriptionofitoutoftherailwaycompany"sadvertisingpamphlet，andsaymyink:

"Onthewholetour，particularlyattheDescent，weundergoanopticalillusionwhichoftenseemstobeincredible。

Alltheshrubs，firtrees，stables，houses，etc。，seemtobebentinaslantingdirection，asbyanimmensepressureofair。

Theyareallstandingawry，somuchawrythatthechaletsandcottagesofthepeasantsseemtobetumblingdown。

Itistheconsequenceofthesteepinclinationoftheline。

Thosewhoareseatedinthecarriagedonotobservethattheyaredoingdownadeclivityoftwentytotwenty-fivedegrees(theirseatsbeingadaptedtothiscourseofproceedingandbeingbentdownattheirbacks)。Theymistaketheircarriageanditshorizontallinesforapropermeasureofthenormalplain，andthereforealltheobjectsoutsidewhichreallyareinahorizontalpositionmustshowadisproportionoftwentytotwenty-fivedegreesdeclivity，inregardtothemountain。"

BythetimeonereachesKaltbad，hehasacquiredconfidenceintherailway，andhenowceasestotrytoeasethelocomotivebyholdingback。Thenceforthhesmokeshispipeinserenity，andgazesoutuponthemagnificentpicturebelowandabouthimwithunfetteredenjoyment。

Thereisnothingtointerruptthevieworthebreeze；

itislikeinspectingtheworldonthewing。However——tobeexact——thereisoneplacewheretheserenitylapsesforawhile；

thisiswhileoneiscrossingtheSchnurrtobelBridge，afrailstructurewhichswingsitsgossamerframedownthroughthedizzyair，overagorge，likeavagrantspider-strand。

Onehasnodifficultyinrememberinghissinswhilethetrainiscreepingdownthisbridge；andherepentsofthem，too；thoughhesees，whenhegetstoVitznau，thatheneednothavedoneit，thebridgewasperfectlysafe。

SoendstheeventualtripwhichwemadetotheRigi-KulmtoseeanAlpinesunrise。

CHAPTERXXX

[HarrisClimbsMountainsforMe]

Anhour"ssailbroughtustoLucerneagain。Ijudgeditbesttogotobedandrestseveraldays，forIknewthatthemanwhoundertakestomakethetourofEuropeonfootmusttakecareofhimself。

Thinkingovermyplans，asmappedout，IperceivedthattheydidnottakeintheFurkaPass，theRhoneGlacier，theFinsteraarhorn，theWetterhorn，etc。Iimmediatelyexaminedtheguide-booktoseeifthesewereimportant，andfoundtheywere；infact，apedestriantourofEuropecouldnotbecompletewithoutthem。Ofcoursethatdecidedmeatoncetoseethem，forIneverallowmyselftodothingsbyhalves，orinaslurring，slipshodway。

Icalledinmyagentandinstructedhimtogowithoutdelayandmakeacarefulexaminationofthesenotedplaces，onfoot，andbringmebackawrittenreportoftheresult，forinsertioninmybook。IinstructedhimtogotoHospenthalasquicklyaspossible，andmakehisgrandstartfromthere；

toextendhisfootexpeditionasfarastheGiesbachfall，andreturntomefromthencebydiligenceormule。

Itoldhimtotakethecourierwithhim。

Heobjectedtothecourier，andwithsomeshowofreason，sincehewasabouttoventureuponnewanduntriedground；

butIthoughthemightaswelllearnhowtotakecareofthecouriernowaslater，thereforeIenforcedmypoint。

Isaidthatthetrouble，delay，andinconvenienceoftravelingwithacourierwerebalancedbythedeeprespectwhichacourier"spresencecommands，andImustinsistthatasmuchstylebethrownintomyjourneysaspossible。

Sothetwoassumedcompletemountaineeringcostumesanddeparted。Aweeklatertheyreturned，prettywellusedup，andmyagenthandedmethefollowingOfficialReportOFAVISITTOTHEFURKAREGION。BYH。HARRIS，AGENT

Aboutseveno"clockinthemorning，withperfectlyfineweather，westartedfromHospenthal，andarrivedattheMAISONontheFurkainalittleunderQUATREhours。

ThewantofvarietyinthesceneryfromHospenthalmadetheKAHKAHPONEEKAwearisome；butletnonebediscouraged；

noonecanfailtobecompletelyR"ECOMPENS"EEforhisfatigue，whenhesees，forthefirsttime，themonarchoftheOberland，thetremendousFinsteraarhorn。Amomentbeforeallwasdullness，butaPASfurtherhasplacedusonthesummitoftheFurka；andexactlyinfrontofus，ataHOPOWofonlyfifteenmiles，thismagnificentmountainliftsitssnow-wreathedprecipicesintothedeepbluesky。

Theinferiormountainsoneachsideofthepassformasortofframeforthepictureoftheirdreadlord，andcloseintheviewsocompletelythatnootherprominentfeatureintheOberlandisvisiblefromthisBONG-A-BONG；

nothingwithdrawstheattentionfromthesolitarygrandeuroftheFinsteraarhornandthedependentspurswhichformtheabutmentsofthecentralpeak。

Withtheadditionofsomeothers，whowerealsoboundfortheGrimsel，weformedalargeXHVLOJaswedescendedtheSTEGwhichwindsroundtheshoulderofamountaintowardtheRhoneGlacier。Wesoonleftthepathandtooktotheice；andafterwanderingamongstthecrevicesUNPEU，toadmirethewondersofthesedeepbluecaverns，andheartherushingofwatersthroughtheirsubglacialchannels，westruckoutacoursetowardL"AUTRECO^T"Eandcrossedtheglaciersuccessfully，alittleabovethecavefromwhichtheinfantRhonetakesitsfirstboundfromunderthegrandprecipiceofice。HalfamilebelowthiswebegantoclimbtheflowerysideoftheMeienwand。

Oneofourpartystartedbeforetherest，buttheHITZE

wassogreat，thatwefoundIHMquiteexhausted，andlyingatfulllengthintheshadeofalargeGESTEIN。

Wesatdownwithhimforatime，forallfelttheheatexceedinglyintheclimbupthisverysteepBOLWOGGOLY，andthenwesetoutagaintogether，andarrivedatlastneartheDeadMan"sLake，atthefootoftheSidelhorn。

Thislonelyspot，onceusedforanextemporeburying-place，afterasanguinaryBATTUEbetweentheFrenchandAustrians，istheperfectionofdesolation；thereisnothinginsighttomarkthehandofman，exceptthelineofweather-beatenwhitenedposts，setuptoindicatethedirectionofthepassintheOWDAWAKKofwinter。Nearthispointthefootpathjoinsthewidertrack，whichconnectstheGrimselwiththeheadoftheRhoneSCHNAWP；thishasbeencarefullyconstructed，andleadswithatortuouscourseamongandoverLESPIERRES，downtothebankofthegloomylittleSWOSH-SWOSH，whichalmostwashesagainstthewallsoftheGrimselHospice。

Wearrivedalittlebeforefouro"clockattheendofourday"sjourney，hotenoughtojustifythestep，takingbymostofthePARTIE，ofplungingintothecrystalwaterofthesnow-fedlake。

ThenextafternoonwestartedforawalkuptheUnteraarglacier，withtheintentionof，atallevents，gettingasfarastheHU"TTEwhichisusedasasleeping-placebymostofthosewhocrosstheStrahleckPasstoGrindelwald。

WegotoverthetediouscollectionofstonesandDE"BRIS

whichcoversthePIEDoftheGLETCHER，andhadwalkednearlythreehoursfromtheGrimsel，when，justaswewerethinkingofcrossingovertotheright，toclimbthecliffsatthefootofthehut，theclouds，whichhadforsometimeassumedathreateningappearance，suddenlydropped，andahugemassofthem，drivingtowardusfromtheFinsteraarhorn，poureddownadelugeofHABOOLONGandhail。Fortunately，wewerenotfarfromaverylargeglacier-table；itwasahugerockbalancedonapedestaloficehighenoughtoadmitofourallcreepingunderitforGOWKARAK。AstreamofPUCKITTYPUKK

hadfurrowedacourseforitselfintheiceatitsbase，andwewereobligedtostandwithoneFUSSoneachsideofthis，andendeavortokeepourselvesCHAUDbycuttingstepsinthesteepbankofthepedestal，soastogetahigherplaceforstandingon，astheWASSERroserapidlyinitstrench。AverycoldBZZZZZZZZEEEaccompaniedthestorm，andmadeourpositionfarfrompleasant；

andpresentlycameaflashofBLITZEN，apparentlyinthemiddleofourlittleparty，withaninstantaneousclapofYOKKY，soundinglikealargegunfiredclosetoourears；

theeffectwasstartling；butinafewsecondsourattentionwasfixedbytheroaringechoesofthethunderagainstthetremendousmountainswhichcompletelysurroundedus。

Thiswasfollowedbymanymorebursts，noneofWELCHE，however，wassodangerouslynear；andafterwaitingalongDEMI-hourinouricyprison，wesalliedouttotalkthroughaHABOOLONGwhich，thoughnotsoheavyasbefore，wasquiteenoughtogiveusathoroughsoakingbeforeourarrivalattheHospice。

TheGrimselisCERTAINEMENTawonderfulplace；situatedatthebottomofasortofhugecrater，thesidesofwhichareutterlysavageGEBIRGE，composedofbarrenrockswhichcannotevensupportasinglepineARBRE，andaffordonlyscantyfoodforaherdofGMWKWLLOLP，itlooksasifitmustbecompletelyBEGRABENinthewintersnows。

Enormousavalanchesfallagainstiteveryspring，sometimescoveringeverythingtothedepthofthirtyorfortyfeet；and，inspiteofwallsfourfeetthick，andfurnishedwithoutsideshutters，thetwomenwhostayherewhentheVOYAGEURSaresnuglyquarteredintheirdistanthomescantellyouthatthesnowsometimesshakesthehousetoitsfoundations。

NextmorningtheHOGGLEBUMGULLUPstillcontinuedbad，butwemadeupourmindstogoon，andmakethebestofit。

Halfanhourafterwestarted，theREGENthickenedunpleasantly，andweattemptedtogetshelterunderaprojectingrock，butbeingfartoNASSalreadytomakestandingatallAGRE"ABLE，wepushedonfortheHandeck，consolingourselveswiththereflectionthatfromthefuriousrushingoftheriverAaratourside，weshouldatalleventsseethecelebratedWASSERFALLinGRANDEPERFECTION。

NorwereweNAPPERSOCKETinourexpectation；thewaterwasroaringdownitsleapoftwohundredandfiftyfeetinamostmagnificentfrenzy，whilethetreeswhichclingtoitsrockysidesswayedtoandfrointheviolenceofthehurricanewhichitbroughtdownwithit；eventhestream，whichfallsintothemaincascadeatrightangles，andTOUTEFOISformsabeautifulfeatureinthescene，wasnowswollenintoaragingtorrent；andtheviolenceofthis"meetingofthewaters，"aboutfiftyfeetbelowthefrailbridgewherewestood，wasfearfullygrand。

Whilewewerelookingatit，GLU"CKLICHEWEISEagleamofsunshinecameout，andinstantlyabeautifulrainbowwasformedbythespray，andhunginmid-airsuspendedovertheawfulgorge。

OngoingintotheCHALETabovethefall，wewereinformedthataBRU"CKEhadbrokendownnearGuttanen，andthatitwouldbeimpossibletoproceedforsometime；

accordinglywewerekeptinourdrenchedconditionforEINSTUNDE，whensomeVOYAGEURSarrivedfromMeiringen，andtoldusthattherehadbeenatriflingaccident，ABERthatwecouldnowcross。Onarrivingatthespot，IwasmuchinclinedtosuspectthatthewholestorywasarusetomakeusSLOWWKanddrinkthemoreattheHandeckInn，foronlyafewplankshadbeencarriedaway，andthoughtheremightperhapshavebeensomedifficultywithmules，thegapwascertainlynotlargerthanaMMBGLXmightcrosswithaveryslightleap。NearGuttanentheHABOOLONG

happilyceased，andwehadtimetowalkourselvestolerablydrybeforearrivingatReichenback，WOweenjoyedagoodDINE"

attheHoteldesAlps。

NextmorningwewalkedtoRosenlaui，theBEAUID"EAL

ofSwissscenery，wherewespentthemiddleofthedayinanexcursiontotheglacier。Thiswasmorebeautifulthanwordscandescribe，forintheconstantprogressoftheiceithaschangedtheformofitsextremityandformedavastcavern，asblueastheskyabove，andrippledlikeafrozenocean。AfewstepscutintheWHOOPJAMBOREEHOOenabledustowalkcompletelyunderthis，andfeastoureyesupononeoftheloveliestobjectsincreation。Theglacierwasallarounddividedbynumberlessfissuresofthesameexquisitecolor，andthefinestwood-ERDBEERENweregrowinginabundancebutafewyardsfromtheice。TheinnstandsinaCHARMANT

spotclosetotheC^OTEDELARIVIE`RE，which，lowerdown，formstheReichenbachfall，andembosomedintherichestofpinewoods，whilethefineformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。

IntheafternoonwewalkedovertheGreatScheidecktoGrindelwald，stoppingtopayavisittotheUpperglacierbytheway；butwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUPandarrivedatthehotelinaSOLCHE

astatethatthelandlord"swardrobewasingreatrequest。

Thecloudsbythistimeseemedtohavedonetheirworst，foralovelydaysucceeded，whichwedeterminedtodevotetoanascentoftheFaulhorn。WeleftGrindelwaldjustasathunder-stormwasdyingaway，andwehopedtofindGUTEN

WETTERupabove；buttherain，whichhadnearlyceased，beganagain，andwewerestruckbytherapidlyincreasingFROIDasweascended。Two-thirdsofthewayupwerecompletedwhentherainwasexchangedforGNILLIC，withwhichtheBODENwasthicklycovered，andbeforewearrivedatthetoptheGNILLICandmistbecamesothickthatwecouldnotseeoneanotheratmorethantwentyPOOPOOdistance，anditbecamedifficulttopickourwayovertheroughandthicklycoveredground。Shiveringwithcold，weturnedintobedwithadoubleallowanceofclothes，andsleptcomfortablywhilethewindhowledAUTOURDE

LAMAISON；whenIawoke，thewallandthewindowlookedequallydark，butinanotherhourIfoundIcouldjustseetheformofthelatter；soIjumpedoutofbed，andforceditopen，thoughwithgreatdifficultyfromthefrostandthequantitiesofGNILLICheapedupagainstit。

Arowofhugeicicleshungdownfromtheedgeoftheroof，andanythingmorewintrythanthewholeANBLICKcouldnotwellbeimagined；butthesuddenappearanceofthegreatmountainsinfrontwassostartlingthatIfeltnoinclinationtomovetowardbedagain。ThesnowwhichhadcollecteduponLAFENE^TREhadincreasedtheFINSTERNISS

ODERDERDUNKELHEIT，sothatwhenIlookedoutIwassurprisedtofindthatthedaylightwasconsiderable，andthattheBALRAGOOMAHwouldevidentlyrisebeforelong。

OnlythebrightestofLESE"TOILESwerestillshining；

theskywascloudlessoverhead，thoughsmallcurlingmistslaythousandsoffeetbelowusinthevalleys，wreathedaroundthefeetofthemountains，andaddingtothesplendoroftheirloftysummits。Weweresoondressedandoutofthehouse，watchingthegradualapproachofdawn，thoroughlyabsorbedinthefirstnearviewoftheOberlandgiants，whichbrokeuponusunexpectedlyaftertheintenseobscurityoftheeveningbefore。

"KABAUGWAKKOSONGWASHEEKUMWETTERHORNSNAWPO!"criedsomeone，asthatgrandsummitgleamedwiththefirstroseofdawn；

andinafewmomentsthedoublecrestoftheSchreckhornfolloweditsexample；peakafterpeakseemedwarmedwithlife，theJungfraublushedevenmorebeautifullythanherneighbors，andsoon，fromtheWetterhornintheeasttotheWildstrubelinthewest，alongrowoffiresgloweduponmightyaltars，trulyworthyofthegods。

TheWLGWwasverysevere；oursleeping-placecouldhardlybeDISTINGUEE"fromthesnowaroundit，whichhadfallentoadepthofaFLIRKduringthepastevening，andweheartilyenjoyedaroughscrambleENBAStotheGiesbachfalls，wherewesoonfoundawarmclimate。

AtnoonthedaybeforeGrindelwaldthethermometercouldnothavestoodatlessthan100degreesFahr。inthesun；

andintheevening，judgingfromtheiciclesformed，andthestateofthewindows，theremusthavebeenatleasttwelveDINGBLATTERoffrost，thusgivingachangeof80

degreesduringafewhours。

Isaid:

"Youhavedonewell，Harris；thisreportisconcise，compact，wellexpressed；thelanguageiscrisp，thedescriptionsarevividandnotneedlesslyelaborated；

yourreportgoesstraighttothepoint，attendsstrictlytobusiness，anddoesn"tfoolaround。Itisinmanywaysanexcellentdocument。Butithasafault——itistoolearned，itismuchtoolearned。Whatis"DINGBLATTER"?

""DINGBLATTER"isaFijiwordmeaning"degrees。""

"YouknewtheEnglishofit，then?"

"Oh，yes。"

"Whatis"GNILLIC"?

"ThatistheEskimotermfor"snow。""

"SoyouknewtheEnglishforthat，too?"

"Why，certainly。"

"Whatdoes"MMBGLX"standfor?"

"ThatisZulufor"pedestrian。""

""WhiletheformoftheWellhornlookingdownuponitcompletestheenchantingBOPPLE。"Whatis"BOPPLE"?"

""Picture。"It"sChoctaw。"

"Whatis"SCHNAWP"?"

""Valley。"ThatisChoctaw，also。"

"Whatis"BOLWOGGOLY"?"

"ThatisChinesefor"hill。""

""KAHKAHPONEEKA"?"

""Ascent。"Choctaw。"

""ButwewereagainovertakenbybadHOGGLEBUMGULLUP。"

Whatdoes"HOGGLEBUMGULLUP"mean?"

"ThatisChinesefor"weather。""

"Is"HOGGLEBUMGULLUP"betterthantheEnglishword?Isitanymoredescriptive?"

"No，itmeansjustthesame。"

"And"DINGBLATTER"and"GNILLIC，"and"BOPPLE，"

and"SCHNAWP"——aretheybetterthantheEnglishwords?"

"No，theymeanjustwhattheEnglishonesdo。"

"Thenwhydoyouusethem?WhyhaveyouusedallthisChineseandChoctawandZulurubbish?"

"BecauseIdidn"tknowanyFrenchbuttwoorthreewords，andIdidn"tknowanyLatinorGreekatall。"

"Thatisnothing。Whyshouldyouwanttouseforeignwords，anyhow?"

"Theyadornmypage。Theyalldoit。"

"Whois"all"?"

"Everybody。Everybodythatwriteselegantly。Anybodyhasarighttothatwantsto。"

"Ithinkyouaremistaken。"Ithenproceededinthefollowingscathingmanner。"Whenreallylearnedmenwritebooksforotherlearnedmentoread，theyarejustifiedinusingasmanylearnedwordsastheyplease——theiraudiencewillunderstandthem；butamanwhowritesabookforthegeneralpublictoreadisnotjustifiedindisfiguringhispageswithuntranslatedforeignexpressions。