第18章

H。YouareaGUESTinsuchplaces?

G。S。Andawelcomingone。

H。Itissurprising。Howdoesitcome?

G。S。Mygrandfather"snameisapassporttoallthecourtsinEurope。Ihaveonlytoutterthatnameandeverydoorisopentome。Iflitfromcourttocourtatmyownfreewillandpleasure，andamalwayswelcome。

IamasmuchathomeinthepalacesofEuropeasyouareamongyourrelatives。IknoweverytitledpersoninEurope，Ithink。Ihavemypocketsfullofinvitationsallthetime。

IamunderpromisetogotoItaly，whereIamtobetheguestofasuccessionofthenoblesthousesintheland。

InBerlinmylifeisacontinuedroundofgaietyintheimperialpalace。Itisthesame，whereverIgo。

H。Itmustbeverypleasant。ButitmustmakeBostonseemalittleslowwhenyouareathome。

G。S。Yes，ofcourseitdoes。ButIdon"tgohomemuch。

There"snolifethere——littletofeedaman"shighernature。

Boston"sverynarrow，youknow。Shedoesn"tknowit，andyoucouldn"tconvinceherofit——soIsaynothingwhenI"mthere:where"stheuse?Yes，Bostonisverynarrow，butshehassuchagoodopinionofherselfthatshecan"tseeit。

AmanwhohastraveledasmuchasIhave，andseenasmuchoftheworld，seesitplainenough，buthecan"tcureit，youknow，sothebestistoleaveitandseekaspherewhichismoreinharmonywithhistastesandculture。

Irunacrossthere，oneayear，perhaps，whenIhavenothingimportantonhand，butI"mverysoonbackagain。

IspendmytimeinEurope。

H。Isee。Youmapoutyourplansand……

G。S。No，excuseme。Idon"tmapoutanyplans。Isimplyfollowtheinclinationoftheday。Iamlimitedbynoties，norequirements，Iamnotboundinanyway。Iamtoooldatravelertohampermyselfwithdeliberatepurposes。

Iamsimplyatraveler——aninveteratetraveler——amanoftheworld，inaword——Icancallmyselfbynoothername。

Idonotsay，"Iamgoinghere，orIamgoingthere"——I

saynothingatall，Ionlyact。Forinstance，nextweekyoumayfindmetheguestofagrandeeofSpain，oryoumayfindmeoffforVenice，orflittingtowardDresden。

IshallprobablygotoEgyptpresently；friendswillsaytofriends，"HeisattheNilecataracts"——andatthatverymomenttheywillbesurprisedtolearnthatI"mawayoffyonderinIndiasomewhere。Iamaconstantsurprisetopeople。Theyarealwayssaying，"Yes，hewasinJerusalemwhenweheardofhimlast，butgoodnessknowswhereheisnow。"

PresentlytheGrandsonrosetoleave——discoveredhehadanappointmentwithsomeEmperor，perhaps。Hedidhisgracesoveragain:grippedmewithonetalon，atarm"s-length，pressedhishatagainsthisstomachwiththeother，benthisbodyinthemiddlethreetimes，murmuring:

"Pleasure，"msure；greatpleasure，"msure。Wishyoumuchsuccess。"

Thenheremovedhisgraciouspresence。Itisagreatandsolemnthingtohaveagrandfather。

Ihavenotpurposedtomisrepresentthisboyinanyway，forwhatlittleindignationheexcitedinmesoonpassedandleftnothingbehinditbutcompassion。

Onecannotkeepupagrudgeagainstavacuum。

Ihavetriedtorepeatthislad"sverywords；

ifIhavefailedanywhereIhaveatleastnotfailedtoreproducethemarrowandmeaningofwhathesaid。

HeandtheinnocentchatterboxwhomImetontheSwisslakearethemostuniqueandinterestingspecimensofYoungAmericaIcameacrossduringmyforeigntramping。

Ihavemadehonestportraitsofthem，notcaricatures。

TheGrandsonoftwenty-threereferredtohimselffiveorsixtimesasan"oldtraveler，"andasmanyasthreetimes(withaserenecomplacencywhichwasmaddening)

asa"manoftheworld。"TherewassomethingverydeliciousabouthisleavingBostontoher"narrowness，"unreprovedanduninstructed。

Iformedthecaravaninmarchingorder，presently，andafterridingdownthelinetoseethatitwasproperlyropedtogether，gavethecommandtoproceed。

Inalittlewhiletheroadcarriedustoopen，grassyland。

Wewereabovethetroublesomeforest，now，andhadanuninterruptedview，straightbeforeus，ofoursummit——

thesummitoftheRiffelberg。

Wefollowedthemule-road，azigzagcourse，nowtotheright，nowtotheleft，butalwaysup，andalwayscrowdedandincommodedbygoingandcomingfilesofrecklesstouristswhowerenever，inasingleinstance，tiedtogether。

Iwasobligedtoexerttheutmostcareandcaution，forinmanyplacestheroadwasnottwoyardswide，andoftenthelowersideofitslopedawayinslantingprecipiceseightandevenninefeetdeep。Ihadtoencouragethemenconstantly，tokeepthemfromgivingwaytotheirunmanlyfears。

Wemighthavemadethesummitbeforenight，butforadelaycausedbythelossofanumbrella。Iwasallowingtheumbrellatoremainlost，butthemenmurmured，andwithreason，forinthisexposedregionwestoodinpeculiarneedofprotectionagainstavalanches；

soIwentintocampanddetachedastrongpartytogoafterthemissingarticle。

Thedifficultiesofthenextmorningweresevere，butourcouragewashigh，forourgoalwasnear。

Atnoonweconqueredthelastimpediment——westoodatlastuponthesummit，andwithoutthelossofasinglemanexceptthemulethatatetheglycerin。

Ourgreatachievementwasachieved——thepossibilityoftheimpossiblewasdemonstrated，andHarrisandIwalkedproudlyintothegreatdining-roomoftheRiffelbergHotelandstoodouralpenstocksupinthecorner。

Yes，Ihadmadethegrandascent；butitwasamistaketodoitineveningdress。Theplughatswerebattered，theswallow-tailswereflutteringrags，mudaddednograce，thegeneraleffectwasunpleasantandevendisreputable。

Therewereaboutseventy-fivetouristsatthehotel——

mainlyladiesandlittlechildren——andtheygaveusanadmiringwelcomewhichpaidusforallourprivationsandsufferings。Theascenthadbeenmade，andthenamesanddatesnowstandrecordedonastonemonumenttheretoproveittoallfuturetourists。

Iboiledathermometerandtookanaltitude，withamostcuriousresult:THESUMMITWASNOTASHIGHASTHEPOINTON

THEMOUNTAINSIDEWHEREIHADTAKENTHEFIRSTALTITUDE。

SuspectingthatIhadmadeanimportantdiscovery，Ipreparedtoverifyit。Therehappenedtobeastillhighersummit(calledtheGornerGrat)，abovethehotel，andnotwithstandingthefactthatitoverlooksaglacierfromadizzyheight，andthattheascentisdifficultanddangerous，Iresolvedtoventureupthereandboilathermometer。SoIsentastrongparty，withsomeborrowedhoes，inchargeoftwochiefsofservice，todigastairwayinthesoilallthewayup，andthisIascended，ropedtotheguides。Thisbreezyheightwasthesummitproper——soIaccomplishedevenmorethanIhadoriginallypurposedtodo。Thisfoolhardyexploitisrecordedonanotherstonemonument。

Iboiledmythermometer，andsureenough，thisspot，whichpurportedtobetwothousandfeethigherthanthelocalityofthehotel，turnedouttobeninethousandfeetLOWER。Thusthefactwasclearlydemonstratedthat，ABOVEACERTAINPOINT，THEHIGHERAPOINTSEEMSTOBE，THELOWERITACTUALLYIS。Ourascentitselfwasagreatachievement，butthiscontributiontosciencewasaninconceivablygreatermatter。

Cavilersobjectthatwaterboilsatalowerandlowertemperaturethehigherandhigheryougo，andhencetheapparentanomaly。IanswerthatIdonotbasemytheoryuponwhattheboilingwaterdoes，butuponwhataboiledthermometersays。Youcan"tgobehindthethermometer。

IhadamagnificentviewofMonteRosa，andapparentlyalltherestoftheAlpineworld，fromthathighplace。

Allthecirclinghorizonwaspiledhighwithamightytumultofsnowycrests。OnemighthaveimaginedhesawbeforehimthetentedcampsofabeleagueringhostofBrobdingnagians。

Butlonely，conspicuous，andsuperb，rosethatwonderfuluprightwedge，theMatterhorn。Itsprecipitoussideswerepowderedoverwithsnow，andtheupperhalfhiddeninthickcloudswhichnowandthendissolvedtocobwebfilmsandgavebriefglimpsesoftheimposingtowerasthroughaveil。

[2]AlittlelatertheMatterhorntooktohimselfthesemblanceofavolcano；hewasstrippednakedtohisapex——

aroundthiscircledvastwreathsofwhitecloudwhichstrungslowlyoutandstreamedawayslantwisetowardthesun，atwenty-milestretchofrollingandtumblingvapor，andlookingjustasifitwerepouringoutofacrater。

Lateragain，oneofthemountain"ssideswascleanandclear，andanothersidedenselyclothedfrombasetosummitinthicksmokelikecloudwhichfeatheredoffandflewaroundtheshaft"ssharpedgelikethesmokearoundthecornersofaburningbuilding。TheMatterhornisalwaysexperimenting，andalwaysgetsupfineeffects，too。Inthesunset，whenallthelowerworldispalledingloom，itpointstowardheavenoutofthepervadingblacknesslikeafingeroffire。Inthesunrise——well，theysayitisveryfineinthesunrise。

2。NOTE——IhadtheveryunusuallucktocatchonelittlemomentaryglimpseoftheMatterhornwhollyunencumberedbyclouds。Ileveledmyphotographicapparatusatitwithoutthelossofaninstant，andshouldhavegotanelegantpictureifmydonkeyhadnotinterfered。

Itwasmypurposetodrawthisphotographallbymyselfformybook，butwasobligedtoputthemountainpartofitintothehandsoftheprofessionalartistbecauseIfoundIcouldnotdolandscapewell。

Authoritiesagreethatthereisnosuchtremendous"layout"

ofsnowyAlpinemagnitude，grandeur，andsublimitytobeseenfromanyotheraccessiblepointasthetouristmayseefromthesummitoftheRiffelberg。Therefore，letthetouristropehimselfupandgothere；forIhaveshownthatwithnerve，caution，andjudgment，thethingcanbedone。

Iwishtoaddoneremark，here——inparentheses，sotospeak——suggestedbytheword"snowy，"whichIhavejustused。

Wehaveallseenhillsandmountainsandlevelswithsnowonthem，andsowethinkweknowalltheaspectsandeffectsproducedbysnow。ButindeedwedonotuntilwehaveseentheAlps。Possiblymassanddistanceaddsomething——atanyrate，somethingISadded。Amongothernoticeablethings，thereisadazzling，intensewhitenessaboutthedistantAlpinesnow，whenthesunisonit，whichonerecognizesaspeculiar，andnotfamiliartotheeye。Thesnowwhichoneisaccustomedtohasatinttoit——paintersusuallygiveitabluishcast——butthereisnoperceptibletinttothedistantAlpinesnowwhenitistryingtolookitswhitest。Astotheunimaginablesplendorofitwhenthesunisblazingdownonit——well，itsimplyISunimaginable。

CHAPTERXXXIX

[WeTravelbyGlacier]

Aguide-bookisaqueerthing。ThereaderhasjustseenwhatamanwhoundertakesthegreatascentfromZermatttotheRiffelbergHotelmustexperience。YetBaedekermakesthesestrangestatementsconcerningthismatter:

1。Distance——3hours。

2。Theroadcannotbemistaken。

3。Guideunnecessary。

4。DistancefromRiffelbergHoteltotheGornerGrat，onehourandahalf。

5。Ascentsimpleandeasy。Guideunnecessary。

6。ElevationofZermattabovesea-level，5，315feet。

7。ElevationofRiffelbergHotelabovesea-level，8，429feet。

8。ElevationoftheGornerGratabovesea-level，10，289feet。

Ihaveprettyeffectuallythrottledtheseerrorsbysendinghimthefollowingdemonstratedfacts:

1。DistancefromZermatttoRiffelbergHotel，7days。

2。TheroadCANbemistaken。IfIamthefirstthatdidit，Iwantthecreditofit，too。

3。GuidesAREnecessary，fornonebutanativecanreadthosefinger-boards。

4。Theestimateoftheelevationoftheseverallocalitiesabovesea-levelisprettycorrect——forBaedeker。

Heonlymissesitaboutahundredandeightyorninetythousandfeet。

Ifoundmyarnicainvaluable。Mymenweresufferingexcruciatingly，fromthefrictionofsittingdownsomuch。

Duringtwoorthreedays，notoneofthemwasabletodomorethanliedownorwalkabout；yetsoeffectivewasthearnica，thatonthefourthallwereabletositup。

Iconsiderthat，morethantoanythingelse，Iowethesuccessofourgreatundertakingtoarnicaandparegoric。

Mymenarebeingrestoredtohealthandstrength，mymainperplexity，now，washowtogetthemdownthemountainagain。Iwasnotwillingtoexposethebravefellowstotheperils，fatigues，andhardshipsofthatfearfulrouteagainifitcouldbehelped。

FirstIthoughtofballoons；but，ofcourse，Ihadtogivethatideaup，forballoonswerenotprocurable。

Ithoughtofseveralotherexpedients，butuponconsiderationdiscardedthem，forcause。ButatlastIhitit。Iwasawarethatthemovementofglaciersisanestablishedfact，forIhadreaditinBaedeker；

soIresolvedtotakepassageforZermattonthegreatGornerGlacier。

Verygood。Thenextthingwas，howtogetdowntheglaciercomfortably——forthemule-roadtoitwaslong，andwinding，andwearisome。Isetmymindatwork，andsoonthoughtoutaplan。OnelooksstraightdownuponthevastfrozenrivercalledtheGornerGlacier，fromtheGornerGrat，asheerprecipicetwelvehundredfeethigh。Wehadonehundredandfifty-fourumbrellas——

andwhatisanumbrellabutaparachute?

ImentionedthisnobleideatoHarris，withenthusiasm，andwasabouttoordertheExpeditiontoformontheGornerGrat，withtheirumbrellas，andprepareforflightbyplatoons，eachplatoonincommandofaguide，whenHarrisstoppedmeandurgedmenottobetoohasty。

HeaskedmeifthismethodofdescendingtheAlpshadeverbeentriedbefore。Isaidno，Ihadnotheardofaninstance。Then，inhisopinion，itwasamatterofconsiderablegravity；inhisopinionitwouldnotbewelltosendthewholecommandoverthecliffatonce；

abetterwaywouldbetosenddownasingleindividual，first，andseehowhefared。

Isawthewisdominthisideainstantly。Isaidasmuch，andthankedmyagentcordially，andtoldhimtotakehisumbrellaandtrythethingrightaway，andwavehishatwhenhegotdown，ifhestruckinasoftplace，andthenIwouldshiptherestrightalong。

Harriswasgreatlytouchedwiththismarkofconfidence，andsaidso，inavoicethathadaperceptibletrembleinit；

butatthesametimehesaidhedidnotfeelhimselfworthyofsoconspicuousafavor；thatitmightcausejealousyinthecommand，fortherewereplentywhowouldnothesitatetosayhehadusedunderhandedmeanstogettheappointment，whereashisconsciencewouldbearhimwitnessthathehadnotsoughtitatall，noreven，inhissecretheart，desiredit。

Isaidthesewordsdidhimextremecredit，butthathemustnotthrowawaytheimperishabledistinctionofbeingthefirstmantodescendanAlpperparachute，simplytosavethefeelingsofsomeenviousunderlings。No，Isaid，heMUSTaccepttheappointment——itwasnolongeraninvitation，itwasacommand。

Hethankedmewitheffusion，andsaidthatputtingthethinginthisformremovedeveryobjection。

Heretired，andsoonreturnedwithhisumbrella，hiseyeflamingwithgratitudeandhischeekspallidwithjoy。

Justthentheheadguidepassedalong。Harris"sexpressionchangedtooneofinfinitetenderness，andhesaid:

"Thatmandidmeacruelinjuryfourdaysago，andI

saidinmyheartheshouldlivetoperceiveandconfessthattheonlynoblerevengeamancantakeuponhisenemyistoreturngoodforevil。Iresigninhisfavor。

Appointhim。"

Ithrewmyarmsaroundthegenerousfellowandsaid:

"Harris，youarethenoblestsoulthatlives。Youshallnotregretthissublimeact，neithershalltheworldfailtoknowofit。Youshallhaveopportunityfartranscendingthisone，too，ifIlive——rememberthat。"

Icalledtheheadguidetomeandappointedhimonthespot。Butthethingarousednoenthusiasminhim。

Hedidnottaketotheideaatall。

Hesaid:

"TiemyselftoanumbrellaandjumpovertheGornerGrat!Excuseme，thereareagreatmanypleasanterroadstothedevilthanthat。"

Uponadiscussionofthesubjectwithhim，itappearedthatheconsideredtheprojectdistinctlyanddecidedlydangerous。

Iwasnotconvinced，yetIwasnotwillingtotrytheexperimentinanyriskyway——thatis，inawaythatmightcripplethestrengthandefficiencyoftheExpedition。

Iwasaboutatmywits"endwhenitoccurredtometotryitontheLatinist。

Hewascalledin。Buthedeclined，onthepleaofinexperience，diffidenceinpublic，lackofcuriosity，andIdidn"tknowwhatall。Anothermandeclinedonaccountofacoldinthehead；thoughtheoughttoavoidexposure。Anothercouldnotjumpwell——neverCOULDjumpwell——didnotbelievehecouldjumpsofarwithoutlongandpatientpractice。Anotherwasafraiditwasgoingtorain，andhisumbrellahadaholeinit。

Everybodyhadanexcuse。Theresultwaswhatthereaderhasbythistimeguessed:themostmagnificentideathatwaseverconceivedhadtobeabandoned，fromsheerlackofapersonwithenterpriseenoughtocarryitout。

Yes，Iactuallyhadtogivethatthingup——whiledoubtlessIshouldlivetoseesomebodyuseitandtakeallthecreditfromme。

Well，Ihadtogooverland——therewasnootherway。

ImarchedtheExpeditiondownthesteepandtediousmule-pathandtookupasgoodapositionasIcoulduponthemiddleoftheglacier——becauseBaedekersaidthemiddleparttravelsthefastest。Asameasureofeconomy，however，Iputsomeoftheheavierbaggageontheshorewardparts，togoasslowfreight。

Iwaitedandwaited，buttheglacierdidnotmove。

Nightwascomingon，thedarknessbegantogather——stillwedidnotbudge。Itoccurredtomethen，thattheremightbeatime-tableinBaedeker；itwouldbewelltofindoutthehoursofstarting。Icalledforthebook——itcouldnotbefound。Bradshawwouldcertainlycontainatime-table；

butnoBradshawcouldbefound。

Verywell，Imustmakethebestofthesituation。SoI

pitchedthetents，picketedtheanimals，milkedthecows，hadsupper，paregorickedthemen，establishedthewatch，andwenttobed——withorderstocallmeassoonaswecameinsightofZermatt。

Iawokeabouthalfpasttennextmorning，andlookedaround。

Wehadn"tbudgedapeg!AtfirstIcouldnotunderstandit；

thenitoccurredtomethattheoldthingmustbeaground。

SoIcutdownsometreesandriggedasparonthestarboardandanotherontheportside，andfooledawayupwardofthreehourstryingtosparheroff。Butitwasnouse。

Shewashalfamilewideandfifteenortwentymileslong，andtherewasnotellingjustwhereaboutssheWASaground。

Themenbegantoshowuneasiness，too，andpresentlytheycameflyingtomewithashyfaces，sayingshehadsprungaleak。

Nothingbutmycoolbehavioratthiscriticaltimesavedusfromanotherpanic。Iorderthemtoshowmetheplace。

Theyledmetoaspotwhereahugeboulderlayinadeeppoolofclearandbrilliantwater。Itdidlooklikeaprettybadleak，butIkeptthattomyself。Imadeapumpandsetthementoworktopumpouttheglacier。

Wemadeasuccessofit。Iperceived，then，thatitwasnotaleakatall。Thisboulderhaddescendedfromaprecipiceandstoppedontheiceinthemiddleoftheglacier，andthesunhadwarmeditup，everyday，andconsequentlyithadmelteditswaydeeperanddeeperintotheice，untilatlastitreposed，aswehadfoundit，inadeeppooloftheclearestandcoldestwater。

PresentlyBaedekerwasfoundagain，andIhuntedeagerlyforthetime-table。Therewasnone。Thebooksimplysaidtheglacierwasmovingallthetime。Thiswassatisfactory，soIshutupthebookandchoseagoodpositiontoviewthesceneryaswepassedalong。Istoodtheresometimeenjoyingthetrip，butatlastitoccurredtomethatwedidnotseemtobegaininganyonthescenery。Isaidtomyself，"Thisconfoundedoldthing"sagroundagain，sure，"——andopenedBaedekertoseeifIcouldrunacrossanyremedyfortheseannoyinginterruptions。Isoonfoundasentencewhichthrewadazzlinglightuponthematter。Itsaid，"TheGornerGlaciertravelsatanaveragerateofalittlelessthananinchaday。"Ihaveseldomfeltsooutraged。

Ihaveseldomhadmyconfidencesowantonlybetrayed。

Imadeasmallcalculation:Oneinchaday，saythirtyfeetayear；estimateddistancetoZermatt，threeandone-eighteenthmiles。Timerequiredtogobyglacier，ALITTLEOVERFIVEHUNDREDYEARS!Isaidtomyself，"IcanWALKitquicker——andbeforeIwillpatronizesuchafraudasthis，Iwilldoit。"

WhenIrevealedtoHarristhefactthatthepassengerpartofthisglacier——thecentralpart——thelightning-expresspart，sotospeak——wasnotdueinZermatttillthesummerof2378，andthatthebaggage，comingalongtheslowedge，wouldnotarriveuntilsomegenerationslater，heburstoutwith:

"ThatisEuropeanmanagement，allover!Aninchaday——thinkofthat!Fivehundredyearstogoatrifleoverthreemiles!

ButIamnotabitsurprised。It"saCatholicglacier。

Youcantellbythelookofit。Andthemanagement。"

Isaid，no，IbelievednothingbuttheextremeendofitwasinaCatholiccanton。

"Well，then，it"sagovernmentglacier，"saidHarris。

"It"sallthesame。Overherethegovernmentrunseverything——soeverything"sslow；slow，andill-managed。Butwithus，everything"sdonebyprivateenterprise——andthenthereain"tmuchlollingaround，youcandependonit。

IwishTomScottcouldgethishandsonthistorpidoldslabonce——you"dseeittakeadifferentgaitfromthis。"

IsaidIwassurehewouldincreasethespeed，iftherewastradeenoughtojustifyit。

"He"dMAKEtrade，"saidHarris。"That"sthedifferencebetweengovernmentsandindividuals。Governmentsdon"tcare，individualsdo。TomScottwouldtakeallthetrade；

intwoyearsGornerstockwouldgototwohundred，andinsideoftwomoreyouwouldseealltheotherglaciersunderthehammerfortaxes。"Afterareflectivepause，Harrisadded，"Alittlelessthananinchaday；alittlelessthananINCH，mindyou。Well，I"mlosingmyreverenceforglaciers。"

Iwasfeelingmuchthesamewaymyself。Ihavetraveledbycanal-boat，ox-wagon，raft，andbytheEphesusandSmyrnarailway；butwhenitcomesdowntogoodsolidhonestslowmotion，Ibetmymoneyontheglacier。

Asameansofpassengertransportation，Iconsidertheglacierafailure；butasavehicleofslowfreight，Ithinkshefillsthebill。Inthematterofputtingthefineshadesonthatlineofbusiness，IjudgeshecouldteachtheGermanssomething。

IorderedthementobreakcampandprepareforthelandjourneytoZermatt。Atthismomentamostinterestingfindwasmade；adarkobject，beddedintheglacialice，wascutoutwiththeice-axes，anditprovedtobeapieceoftheundressedskinofsomeanimal——ahairtrunk，perhaps；

butacloseinspectiondisabledthehair-trunktheory，andfurtherdiscussionandexaminationexplodeditentirely——thatis，intheopinionofallthescientistsexcepttheonewhohadadvancedit。Thisoneclungtohistheorywithaffectionatefidelitycharacteristicoforiginatorsofscientifictheories，andafterwardwonmanyofthefirstscientistsoftheagetohisview，byaveryablepamphletwhichhewrote，entitled，"Evidencesgoingtoshowthatthehairtrunk，inawildstate，belongedtotheearlyglacialperiod，androamedthewastesofchaosinthecompanywiththecave-bear，primevalman，andtheotherOo"liticsoftheOldSilurianfamily。"

Eachofourscientistshadatheoryofhisown，andputforwardananimalofhisownasacandidatefortheskin。

IsidedwiththegeologistoftheExpeditioninthebeliefthatthispatchofskinhadoncehelpedtocoveraSiberianelephant，insomeoldforgottenage——butwedividedthere，thegeologistbelievingthatthisdiscoveryprovedthatSiberiahadformerlybeenlocatedwhereSwitzerlandisnow，whereasIheldtheopinionthatitmerelyprovedthattheprimevalSwisswasnotthedullsavageheisrepresentedtohavebeen，butwasabeingofhighintellectualdevelopment，wholikedtogotothemenagerie。

Wearrivedthatevening，aftermanyhardshipsandadventures，insomefieldsclosetothegreatice-archwherethemadVispboilsandsurgesoutfromunderthefootofthegreatGornerGlacier，andherewecamped，ourperilsoverandourmagnificentundertakingsuccessfullycompleted。

WemarchedintoZermattthenextday，andwerereceivedwiththemostlavishhonorsandapplause。Adocument，signedandsealedbytheauthorities，wasgiventomewhichestablishedandendorsedthefactthatIhadmadetheascentoftheRiffelberg。ThisIweararoundmyneck，anditwillbeburiedwithmewhenIamnomore。

CHAPTERXL

[PiteousRelicsatChamonix]

Iamnotsoignorantaboutglacialmovement，now，asI

waswhenItookpassageontheGornerGlacier。

Ihave"readup"since。Iamawarethatthesevastbodiesoficedonottravelatthesamerateofspeed；

whiletheGornerGlaciermakeslessthananinchaday，theUnter-AarGlaciermakesasmuchaseight；andstillotherglaciersaresaidtogotwelve，sixteen，andeventwentyinchesaday。Onewritersaysthattheslowestglaciertravelstwenty-givefeetayear，andthefastestfourhundred。

Whatisaglacier?Itiseasytosayitlookslikeafrozenriverwhichoccupiesthebedofawindinggorgeorgullybetweenmountains。Butthatgivesnonotionofitsvastness。Foritissometimessixhundredfeetthick，andwearenotaccustomedtoriverssixhundredfeetdeep；no，ourriversaresixfeet，twentyfeet，andsometimesfiftyfeetdeep；wearenotquiteabletograspsolargeafactasanice-riversixhundredfeetdeep。

Theglacier"ssurfaceisnotsmoothandlevel，buthasdeepswalesandswellingelevations，andsometimeshasthelookofatossingseawhoseturbulentbillowswerefrozenhardintheinstantoftheirmostviolentmotion；

theglacier"ssurfaceisnotaflawlessmass，butisariverwithcracksorcrevices，somenarrow，somegapingwide。

Manyaman，thevictimofasliporamisstep，hasplungeddownonoftheseandmethisdeath。Menhavebeenfishedoutofthemalive；butitwaswhentheydidnotgotoagreatdepth；thecoldofthegreatdepthswouldquicklystupefyaman，whetherhewashurtorunhurt。

Thesecracksdonotgostraightdown；onecanseldomseemorethantwentytofortyfeetdownthem；consequentlymenwhohavedisappearedinthemhavebeensoughtfor，inthehopethattheyhadstoppedwithinhelpingdistance，whereastheircase，inmostinstances，hadreallybeenhopelessfromthebeginning。

In1864apartyoftouristswasdescendingMontBlanc，andwhilepickingtheirwayoveroneofthemightyglaciersofthatloftyregion，ropedtogether，aswasproper，ayoungporterdisengagedhimselffromthelineandstartedacrossanice-bridgewhichspannedacrevice。

Itbrokeunderhimwithacrash，andhedisappeared。

Theotherscouldnotseehowdeephehadgone，soitmightbeworthwhiletotryandrescuehim。AbraveyoungguidenamedMichelPayotvolunteered。

Tworopesweremadefasttohisleatherbeltandheboretheendofathirdoneinhishandtotietothevictimincasehefoundhim。Hewasloweredintothecrevice，hedescendeddeeperanddeeperbetweentheclearbluewallsofsolidice，heapproachedabendinthecrackanddisappearedunderit。Down，andstilldown，hewent，intothisprofoundgrave；whenhehadreachedadepthofeightyfeethepassedunderanotherbendinthecrack，andthencedescendedeightyfeetlower，asbetweenperpendicularprecipices。Arrivedatthisstageofonehundredandsixtyfeetbelowthesurfaceoftheglacier，hepeeredthroughthetwilightdimnessandperceivedthatthechasmtookanotherturnandstretchedawayatasteepslanttounknowndeeps，foritscoursewaslostindarkness。Whataplacethatwastobein——especiallyifthatleatherbeltshouldbreak!Thecompressionofthebeltthreatenedtosuffocatetheintrepidfellow；

hecalledtohisfriendstodrawhimup，butcouldnotmakethemhear。Theystillloweredhim，deeperanddeeper。

Thenhejerkedhisthirdcordasvigorouslyashecould；

hisfriendsunderstood，anddraggedhimoutofthoseicyjawsofdeath。

Thentheyattachedabottletoacordandsentitdowntwohundredfeet，butitfoundnobottom。Itcameupcoveredwithcongelations——evidenceenoughthatevenifthepoorporterreachedthebottomwithunbrokenbones，aswiftdeathfromcoldwassure，anyway。

Aglacierisastupendous，ever-progressing，resistlessplow。

Itpushesaheadofitsmassesofboulderswhicharepackedtogether，andtheystretchacrossthegorge，rightinfrontofit，likealonggraveoralong，sharproof。Thisiscalledamoraine。Italsoshovesoutamorainealongeachsideofitscourse。

Imposingasthemodernglaciersare，theyarenotsohugeasweresomethatonceexisted。Forinstance，Mr。Whympersays:

"AtsomeveryremoteperiodtheValleyofAostawasoccupiedbyavastglacier，whichfloweddownitsentirelengthfromMontBlanctotheplainofPiedmont，remainedstationary，ornearlyso，atitsmouthformanycenturies，anddepositedthereenormousmassesofdebris。ThelengthofthisglacierexceededEIGHTYMILES，anditdrainedabasintwenty-fivetothirty-fivemilesacross，boundedbythehighestmountainsintheAlps。Thegreatpeaksroseseveralthousandfeetabovetheglaciers，andthen，asnow，shatteredbysunandfrost，poureddowntheirshowersofrocksandstones，inwitnessofwhichtherearetheimmensepilesofangularfragmentsthatconstitutethemorainesofIvrea。

"ThemorainesaroundIvreaareofextraordinarydimensions。

ThatwhichwasontheleftbankoftheglacierisaboutTHIRTEENMILESlong，andinsomeplacesrisestoaheightofTWOTHOUSANDONEHUNDREDANDTHIRTYFEET

abovethefloorofthevalley!Theterminalmoraines(thosewhicharepushedinfrontoftheglaciers)

coversomethingliketwentysquaremilesofcountry。

AtthemouthoftheValleyofAosta，thethicknessoftheglaciermusthavebeenatleastTWOTHOUSANDfeet，anditswidth，atthatpart，FIVEMILESANDAQUARTER。"

Itisnoteasytogetatacomprehensionofamassoficelikethat。Ifonecouldcleaveoffthebuttendofsuchaglacier——anoblongblocktwoorthreemileswidebyfiveandaquarterlongandtwothousandfeetthick——

hecouldcompletelyhidethecityofNewYorkunderit，andTrinitysteeplewouldonlystickupintoitrelativelyasfarasashingle-nailwouldstickupintothebottomofaSaratogatrunk。

"ThebouldersfromMontBlanc，upontheplainbelowIvrea，assureusthattheglacierwhichtransportedthemexistedforaprodigiouslengthoftime。Theirpresentdistancefromthecliffsfromwhichtheywerederivedisabout420，000feet，andifweassumethattheytraveledattherateof400feetperannum，theirjourneymusthaveoccupiedthemnolessthan1，055years!Inallprobabilitytheydidnottravelsofast。"

Glaciersaresometimeshurriedoutoftheircharacteristicsnail-pace。Amarvelousspectacleispresentedthen。

Mr。WhymperreferstoacasewhichoccurredinIcelandin1721:

"ItseemsthatintheneighborhoodofthemountainKotlugja，largebodiesofwaterformedunderneath，orwithintheglaciers(eitheronaccountoftheinteriorheatoftheearth，orfromothercauses)，andatlengthacquiredirresistiblepower，toretheglaciersfromtheirmooringontheland，andsweptthemovereveryobstacleintothesea。

Prodigiousmassesoficewerethusborneforadistanceofabouttenmilesoverlandinthespaceofafewhours；

andtheirbulkwassoenormousthattheycoveredtheseaforsevenmilesfromtheshore，andremainedagroundinsixhundredfeetofwater!Thedenudationofthelandwasuponagrandscale。Allsuperficialaccumulationsweresweptaway，andthebedrockwasexposed。Itwasdescribed，ingraphiclanguage，howallirregularitiesanddepressionswereobliterated，andasmoothsurfaceofseveralmiles"

arealaidbare，andthatthisareahadtheappearanceofhavingbeenPLANEDBYAPLANE。"

TheaccounttranslatedfromtheIcelandicsaysthatthemountainlikeruinsofthismajesticglaciersocoveredtheseathatasfarastheeyecouldreachnoopenwaterwasdiscoverable，evenfromthehighestpeaks。Amonsterwallorbarrieroficewasbuiltacrossaconsiderablestretchofland，too，bythisstrangeirruption:

"OnecanformsomeideaofthealtitudeofthisbarrieroficewhenitismentionedthatfromHofdabrekkafarm，whichlieshighuponafjeld，onecouldnotseeHjorleifshofdiopposite，whichisafellsixhundredandfortyfeetinheight；butinordertodosohadtoclamberupamountainslopeeastofHofdabrekkatwelvehundredfeethigh。"

Thesethingswillhelpthereadertounderstandwhyitisthatamanwhokeepscompanywithglacierscomestofeeltolerablyinsignificantbyandby。TheAlpsandtheglacierstogetherareabletotakeeverybitofconceitoutofamanandreducehisself-importancetozeroifhewillonlyremainwithintheinfluenceoftheirsublimepresencelongenoughtogiveitafairandreasonablechancetodoitswork。

TheAlpineglaciersmove——thatisgranted，now，byeverybody。

Buttherewasatimewhenpeoplescoffedattheidea；

theysaidyoumightaswellexpectleaguesofsolidrocktocrawlalongthegroundasexpectleaguesoficetodoit。

Butproofafterproofasfurnished，andthefinallytheworldhadtobelieve。

Thewisemennotonlysaidtheglaciermoved，buttheytimeditsmovement。Theycipheredoutaglacier"sgait，andthensaidconfidentlythatitwouldtraveljustsofarinsomanyyears。Thereisrecordofastrikingandcuriousexampleoftheaccuracywhichmaybeattainedinthesereckonings。

In1820theascentofMontBlancwasattemptedbyaRussianandtwoEnglishmen，withsevenguides。Theyhadreachedaprodigiousaltitude，andwereapproachingthesummit，whenanavalanchesweptseveralofthepartydownasharpslopeoftwohundredfeetandhurledfiveofthem(allguides)intooneofthecrevicesofaglacier。

Thelifeofoneofthefivewassavedbyalongbarometerwhichwasstrappedtohisback——itbridgedthecreviceandsuspendedhimuntilhelpcame。Thealpenstockorbatonofanothersaveditsownerinasimilarway。

Threemenwerelost——PierreBalmat，PierreCarrier，andAugusteTairraz。Theyhadbeenhurleddownintothefathomlessgreatdeepsofthecrevice。

Dr。Forbes，theEnglishgeologist，hadmadefrequentvisitstotheMontBlancregion，andhadgivenmuchattentiontothedisputedquestionofthemovementofglaciers。

Duringoneofthesevisitshecompletedhisestimatesoftherateofmovementoftheglacierwhichhadswallowedupthethreeguides，andutteredthepredictionthattheglacierwoulddeliverupitsdeadatthefootofthemountainthirty-fiveyearsfromthetimeoftheaccident，orpossiblyforty。

Adull，slowjourney——amovementimperceptibletoanyeye——

butitwasproceeding，nevertheless，andwithoutcessation。