第17章

Ireadseveralbooks，andherearesomeofthethingsIfoundout。One"sshoesmustbestrongandheavy，andhavepointedhobnailsinthem。Thealpenstockmustbeofthebestwood，forifitshouldbreak，lossoflifemightbetheresult。Oneshouldcarryanax，tocutstepsintheicewith，onthegreatheights。

Theremustbealadder，fortherearesteepbitsofrockwhichcanbesurmountedwiththisinstrument——orthisutensil——butcouldnotbesurmountedwithoutit；

suchanobstructionhascompelledthetouristtowastehourshuntinganotherroute，whenaladderwouldhavesavedhimalltrouble。Onemusthavefromonehundredandfiftytofivehundredfeetofstrongrope，tobeusedinloweringthepartydownsteepdeclivitieswhicharetoosteepandsmoothtobetraversedinanyotherway。

Onemusthaveasteelhook，onanotherrope——averyusefulthing；forwhenoneisascendingandcomestoalowbluffwhichisyettoohighfortheladder，heswingsthisropealoftlikealasso，thehookcatchesatthetopofthebluff，andthenthetouristclimbstherope，handoverhand——beingalwaysparticulartotryandforgetthatifthehookgiveswayhewillneverstopfallingtillhearrivesinsomepartofSwitzerlandwheretheyarenotexpectinghim。Anotherimportantthing——theremustbearopetotiethewholepartytogetherwith，sothatifonefallsfromamountainordownabottomlesschasminaglacier，theothersmaybracebackontheropeandsavehim。Onemusthaveasilkveil，toprotecthisfacefromsnow，sleet，hailandgale，andcoloredgogglestoprotecthiseyesfromthatdangerousenemy，snow-blindness。Finally，theremustbesomeporters，tocarryprovisions，wineandscientificinstruments，andalsoblanketbagsforthepartytosleepin。

IclosedmyreadingswithafearfuladventurewhichMr。WhymperoncehadontheMatterhornwhenhewasprowlingaroundalone，fivethousandfeetabovethetownofBreil。

Hewasedginghiswaygingerlyaroundthecornerofaprecipicewheretheupperedgeofasharpdeclivityofice-glazedsnowjoinedit。Thisdeclivitysweptdownacoupleofhundredfeet，intoagullywhichcurvedaroundandendedataprecipiceeighthundredfeethigh，overlookingaglacier。Hisfootslipped，andhefell。

Hesays:

"Myknapsackbroughtmyheaddownfirst，andIpitchedintosomerocksaboutadozenfeetbelow；theycaughtsomething，andtumbledmeofftheedge，headoverheels，intothegully；

thebatonwasdashedfrommyhands，andIwhirleddownwardinaseriesofbounds，eachlongerthanthelast；nowoverice，nowintorocks，strikingmyheadfourorfivetimes，eachtimewithincreasedforce。Thelastboundsentmespinningthroughtheairinaleapoffiftyorsixtyfeet，fromonesideofthegullytotheother，andIstrucktherocks，luckily，withthewholeofmyleftside。

Theycaughtmyclothesforamoment，andIfellbackontothesnowwithmotionarrested。Myheadfortunatelycametherightsideup，andafewfranticcatchesbroughtmetoahalt，intheneckofthegullyandonthevergeoftheprecipice。Baton，hat，andveilskimmedbyanddisappeared，andthecrashoftherocks——whichIhadstarted——astheyfellontotheglacier，toldhownarrowhadbeentheescapefromutterdestruction。Asitwas，Ifellnearlytwohundredfeetinsevenoreightbounds。

Tenfeetmorewouldhavetakenmeinonegiganticleapsofeighthundredfeetontotheglacierbelow。

"Thesituationwassufficientlyserious。Therockscouldnotbeletgoforamoment，andthebloodwasspurtingoutofmorethantwentycuts。Themostseriousoneswereinthehead，andIvainlytriedtoclosethemwithonehand，whileholdingonwiththeother。Itwasuseless；

thebloodgushedoutinblindingjetsateachpulsation。

Atlast，inamomentofinspiration，Ikickedoutabiglumpofsnowandstruckitasplasteronmyhead。

Theideawasahappyone，andtheflowofblooddiminished。

Then，scramblingup，Igot，notamomenttoosoon，toaplaceofsafety，andfaintedaway。Thesunwassettingwhenconsciousnessreturned，anditwaspitch-darkbeforetheGreatStaircasewasdescended；butbyacombinationofluckandcare，thewholefourthousandsevenhundredfeetofdescenttoBreilwasaccomplishedwithoutaslip，oroncemissingtheway。"

Hiswoundskepthimabedsomedays。Thenhegotupandclimbedthatmountainagain。ThatisthewaywithatrueAlp-climber；themorefunhehas，themorehewants。

CHAPTERXXXVII

[OurImposingColumnStartsUpward]

AfterIhadfinishedmyreadings，Iwasnolongermyself；

Iwastranced，uplifted，intoxicated，bythealmostincredibleperilsandadventuresIhadbeenfollowingmyauthorsthrough，andthetriumphsIhadbeensharingwiththem。Isatsilentsometime，thenturnedtoHarrisandsaid:

"Mymindismadeup。"

Somethinginmytonestruckhim:andwhenheglancedatmyeyeandreadwhatwaswrittenthere，hisfacepaledperceptibly。Hehesitatedamoment，thensaid:

"Speak。"

Ianswered，withperfectcalmness:

"IwillascendtheRiffelberg。"

IfIhadshotmypoorfriendhecouldnothavefallenfromhischairmoresuddenly。IfIhadbeenhisfatherhecouldnothavepleadedhardertogetmetogiveupmypurpose。

ButIturnedadeafeartoallhesaid。Whenheperceivedatlastthatnothingcouldaltermydetermination，heceasedtourge，andforawhilethedeepsilencewasbrokenonlybyhissobs。Isatinmarbleresolution，withmyeyesfixeduponvacancy，forinspiritIwasalreadywrestlingwiththeperilsofthemountains，andmyfriendsatgazingatmeinadoringadmirationthroughhistears。

Atlasthethrewhimselfuponmeinalovingembraceandexclaimedinbrokentones:

"YourHarriswillneverdesertyou。Wewilldietogether。"

Icheeredthenoblefellowwithpraises，andsoonhisfearswereforgottenandhewaseagerfortheadventure。

Hewantedtosummontheguidesatonceandleaveattwointhemorning，ashesupposedthecustomwas；

butIexplainedthatnobodywaslookingatthathour；

andthatthestartinthedarkwasnotusuallymadefromthevillagebutfromthefirstnight"sresting-placeonthemountainside。Isaidwewouldleavethevillageat3or4P。M。onthemorrow；meantimehecouldnotifytheguides，andalsoletthepublicknowoftheattemptwhichweproposedtomake。

Iwenttobed，butnottosleep。NomancansleepwhenheisabouttoundertakeoneoftheseAlpineexploits。

Itossedfeverishlyallnightlong，andwasgladenoughwhenIheardtheclockstrikehalfpastelevenandknewitwastimetogetupfordinner。Irose，jadedandrusty，andwenttothenoonmeal，whereIfoundmyselfthecenterofinterestandcuriosity；forthenewswasalreadyabroad。

Itisnoteasytoeatcalmlywhenyouarealion；butitisverypleasant，nevertheless。

Asusual，atZermatt，whenagreatascentisabouttobeundertaken，everybody，nativeandforeign，laidasidehisownprojectsandtookupagoodpositiontoobservethestart。Theexpeditionconsistedof198persons，includingthemules；or205，includingthecows。

Asfollows:

CHIEFSOFSERVICESUBORDINATES

Myself1VeterinarySurgeonMr。Harris1Butler17

Guides12Waiters4Surgeons1Footman1Geologist1

Barber1Botanist1HeadCook3Chaplains9Assistants15Barkeepers1ConfectioneryArtist1LatinistTRANSPORTATION，ETC。

27Porters3CoarseWashersandIroners44Mules1Fineditto44Muleteers7Cows2MilkersTotal，154men，51animals。GrandTotal，205。

RATIONS，ETC。APPARATUS

16CasesHams25SpringMattresses2BarrelsFlour2

Hairditto22BarrelsWhiskeyBeddingforsame1BarrelSugar2Mosquito-nets1KegLemons29Tents2，000CigarsScientificInstruments1BarrelPies97Ice-axes1TonofPemmican5CasesDynamite143PairCrutches7CansNitroglycerin2BarrelsArnica2240-footLadders1BaleofLint2MilesofRope27KegsParegoric154UmbrellasItwasfullfouro"clockintheafternoonbeforemycavalcadewasentirelyready。Atthathouritbegantomove。

Inpointofnumbersandspectaculareffect，itwasthemostimposingexpeditionthathadevermarchedfromZermatt。

Icommandedthechiefguidetoarrangethemenandanimalsinsinglefile，twelvefeetapart，andlashthemalltogetheronastrongrope。Heobjectedthatthefirsttwomileswasadeadlevel，withplentyofroom，andthattheropewasneverusedexceptinverydangerousplaces。

ButIwouldnotlistentothat。MyreadinghadtaughtmethatmanyseriousaccidentshadhappenedintheAlpssimplyfromnothavingthepeopletiedupsoonenough；

Iwasnotgoingtoaddonetothelist。Theguidethenobeyedmyorder。

Whentheprocessionstoodatease，ropedtogether，andreadytomove，Ineversawafinersight。Itwas3，122

feetlong——overhalfamile；everymanandmewasonfoot，andhadonhisgreenveilandhisbluegoggles，andhiswhiteragaroundhishat，andhiscoilofropeoveroneshoulderandundertheother，andhisice-axinhisbelt，andcarriedhisalpenstockinhislefthand，hisumbrella(closed)inhisright，andhiscrutchesslungathisback。

Theburdensofthepack-mulesandthehornsofthecowsweredeckedwiththeEdelweissandtheAlpinerose。

Iandmyagentweretheonlypersonsmounted。Wewereinthepostofdangerintheextremerear，andtiedsecurelytofiveguidesapiece。Ourarmor-bearerscarriedourice-axes，alpenstocks，andotherimplementsforus。

Weweremounteduponverysmalldonkeys，asameasureofsafety；intimeofperilwecouldstraightenourlegsandstandup，andletthedonkeywalkfromunder。

Still，Icannotrecommendthissortofanimal——atleastforexcursionsofmerepleasure——becausehisearsinterrupttheview。Iandmyagentpossessedtheregulationmountaineeringcostumes，butconcludedtoleavethembehind。

Outofrespectforthegreatnumbersoftouristsofbothsexeswhowouldbeassembledinfrontofthehotelstoseeuspass，andalsooutofrespectforthemanytouristswhomweexpectedtoencounteronourexpedition，wedecidedtomaketheascentineveningdress。

Wewateredthecaravanatthecoldstreamwhichrushesdownatroughneartheendofthevillage，andsoonafterwardleftthehauntsofcivilizationbehindus。

Abouthalfpastfiveo"clockwearrivedatabridgewhichspanstheVisp，andafterthrowingoveradetachmenttoseeifitwassafe，thecaravancrossedwithoutaccident。

Thewaynowled，byagentleascent，carpetedwithfreshgreengrass，tothechurchatWinkelmatten。

Withoutstoppingtoexaminethisedifice，IexecutedaflankmovementtotherightandcrossedthebridgeovertheFindelenbach，afterfirsttestingitsstrength。

HereIdeployedtotherightagain，andpresentlyenteredaninvitingstretchofmeadowlandwhichwasunoccupiedsavebyacoupleofdesertedhutstowardthefurthestextremity。

Thesemeadowsofferedanexcellentcamping-place。Wepitchedourtents，supped，establishedapropergrade，recordedtheeventsoftheday，andthenwenttobed。

Weroseattwointhemorninganddressedbycandle-light。Itwasadismalandchillybusiness。Afewstarswereshining，butthegeneralheavenswereovercast，andthegreatshaftoftheMatterhornwasdrapedinacablepallofclouds。

Thechiefguideadvisedadelay；hesaidhefeareditwasgoingtorain。Wewaiteduntilnineo"clock，andthengotawayintolerablyclearweather。

Ourcourseledupsometerrificsteeps，denselywoodedwithlarchesandcedars，andtraversedbypathswhichtherainshadgutteredandwhichwereobstructedbyloosestones。

Toaddtothedangerandinconvenience，wewereconstantlymeetingreturningtouristsonfootandhorseback，andasconstantlybeingcrowdedandbatteredbyascendingtouristswhowereinahurryandwantedtogetby。

Ourtroublesthickened。Aboutthemiddleoftheafternoontheseventeenguidescalledahaltandheldaconsultation。

Afterconsultinganhourtheysaidtheirfirstsuspicionremainedintact——thatistosay，theybelievedtheywerelost。IaskediftheydidnotKNOWit?No，theysaid，theyCOULDN"Tabsolutelyknowwhethertheywerelostornot，becausenoneofthemhadeverbeeninthatpartofthecountrybefore。Theyhadastronginstinctthattheywerelost，buttheyhadnoproofs——exceptthattheydidnotknowwheretheywere。Theyhadmetnotouristsforsometime，andtheyconsideredthatasuspicioussign。

Plainlywewereinanuglyfix。Theguideswerenaturallyunwillingtogoaloneandseekawayoutofthedifficulty；

soweallwenttogether。Forbettersecuritywemovedslowandcautiously，fortheforestwasverydense。

Wedidnotmoveupthemountain，butaroundit，hopingtostrikeacrosstheoldtrail。Towardnightfall，whenwewereabouttiredout，wecameupagainstarockasbigasacottage。Thisbarriertookalltheremainingspiritoutofthemen，andapanicoffearanddespairensued。

Theymoanedandwept，andsaidtheyshouldneverseetheirhomesandtheirdearonesagain。Thentheybegantoupbraidmeforbringingthemuponthisfatalexpedition。

Someevenmutteredthreatsagainstme。

Clearlyitwasnotimetoshowweakness。SoImadeaspeechinwhichIsaidthatotherAlp-climbershadbeeninasperilousapositionasthis，andyetbycourageandperseverancehadescaped。Ipromisedtostandbythem，Ipromisedtorescuethem。Iclosedbysayingwehadplentyofprovisionstomaintainusforquiteasiege——anddidtheysupposeZermattwouldallowhalfamileofmenandmulestomysteriouslydisappearduringanyconsiderabletime，rightabovetheirnoses，andmakenoinquiries?No，Zermattwouldsendoutsearching-expeditionsandweshouldbesaved。

Thisspeechhadagreateffect。Themenpitchedthetentswithsomelittleshowofcheerfulness，andweweresnuglyundercoverwhenthenightshutdown。InowreapedtherewardofmywisdominprovidingonearticlewhichisnotmentionedinanybookofAlpineadventurebutthis。

Irefertotheparegoric。Butforthatbeneficentdrug，wouldhavenotoneofthosemensleptamomentduringthatfearfulnight。Butforthatgentlepersuadertheymusthavetossed，unsoothed，thenightthrough；forthewhiskeywasforme。Yes，theywouldhaveriseninthemorningunfittedfortheirheavytask。Asitwas，everybodysleptbutmyagentandme——onlyweandthebarkeepers。

Iwouldnotpermitmyselftosleepatsuchatime。

Iconsideredmyselfresponsibleforallthoselives。

Imeanttobeonhandandready，incaseofavalanchesupthere，butIdidnotknowitthen。

Wewatchedtheweatherallthroughthatawfulnight，andkeptaneyeonthebarometer，tobepreparedfortheleastchange。Therewasnottheslightestchangerecordedbytheinstrument，duringthewholetime。

Wordscannotdescribethecomfortthatthatfriendly，hopeful，steadfastthingwastomeinthatseasonoftrouble。Itwasadefectivebarometer，andhadnohandbutthestationarybrasspointer，butIdidnotknowthatuntilafterward。IfIshouldbeinsuchasituationagain，Ishouldnotwishforanybarometerbutthatone。

Allhandsroseattwointhemorningandtookbreakfast，andassoonasitwaslightweropedourselvestogetherandwentatthatrock。Forsometimewetriedthehook-ropeandothermeansofscalingit，butwithoutsuccess——thatis，withoutperfectsuccess。Thehookcaughtonce，andHarrisstartedupithandoverhand，buttheholdbrokeandiftherehadnothappenedtobeachaplainsittingunderneathatthetime，Harriswouldcertainlyhavebeencrippled。

Asitwas，itwasthechaplain。Hetooktohiscrutches，andIorderedthehook-ropetobelaidaside。

Itwastoodangerousanimplementwheresomanypeoplearestandingaround。

Wewerepuzzledforawhile；thensomebodythoughtoftheladders。Oneofthesewasleanedagainsttherock，andthemenwentupittiedtogetherincouples。

Anotherladderwassentupforuseindescending。

Attheendofhalfanhoureverybodywasover，andthatrockwasconquered。Wegaveourfirstgrandshoutoftriumph。

Butthejoywasshort-lived，forsomebodyaskedhowweweregoingtogettheanimalsover。

Thiswasaseriousdifficulty；infact，itwasanimpossibility。

Thecourageofthemenbegantowaverimmediately；oncemorewewerethreatenedwithapanic。Butwhenthedangerwasmostimminent，weweresavedinamysteriousway。

Amulewhichhadattractedattentionfromthebeginningbyitsdispositiontoexperiment，triedtoeatafive-poundcanofnitroglycerin。Thishappenedrightalongsidetherock。Theexplosionthrewusalltotheground，andcovereduswithdirtanddebris；itfrightenedusextremely，too，forthecrashitmadewasdeafening，andtheviolenceoftheshockmadethegroundtremble。

However，weweregrateful，fortherockwasgone。

Itsplacewasoccupiedbyanewcellar，aboutthirtyfeetacross，byfifteenfeetdeep。TheexplosionwasheardasfarasZermatt；andanhourandahalfafterward，manycitizensofthattownwereknockeddownandquiteseriouslyinjuredbydescendingportionsofmulemeat，frozensolid。Thisshows，betterthananyestimateinfigures，howhightheexperimenterwent。

Wehadnothingtodo，now，butbridgethecellarandproceedonourway。Withacheerthemenwentattheirwork。

Iattendedtotheengineering，myself。Iappointedastrongdetailtocutdowntreeswithice-axesandtrimthemforpierstosupportthebridge。Thiswasaslowbusiness，forice-axesarenotgoodtocutwoodwith。Icausedmypierstobefirmlysetupinranksinthecellar，anduponthemIlaidsixofmyforty-footladders，sidebyside，andlaidsixmoreontopofthem。

UponthisbridgeIcausedabedofboughstobespread，andontopoftheboughsabedofearthsixinchesdeep。

Istretchedropesuponeithersidetoserveasrailings，andthenmybridgewascomplete。Atrainofelephantscouldhavecrosseditinsafetyandcomfort。Bynightfallthecaravanwasontheothersideandtheladdersweretakenup。

Nextmorningwewentoningoodspiritsforawhile，thoughourwaywasslowanddifficult，byreasonofthesteepandrockynatureofthegroundandthethicknessoftheforest；butatlastadulldespondencycreptintothemen"sfacesanditwasapparentthatnotonlythey，buteventheguides，werenowconvincedthatwewerelost。

Thefactthatwestillmetnotouristswasacircumstancethatwasbuttoosignificant。Anotherthingseemedtosuggestthatwewerenotonlylost，butverybadlylost；

fortheremustsurelybesearching-partiesontheroadbeforethistime，yetwehadseennosignofthem。

Demoralizationwasspreading；somethingmustbedone，anddonequickly，too。Fortunately，Iamnotunfertileinexpedients。Icontrivedonenowwhichcommendeditselftoall，foritpromisedwell。Itookthree-quartersofamileofropeandfastenedoneendofitaroundthewaistofaguide，andtoldhimtogofindtheroad，whilethecaravanwaited。Iinstructedhimtoguidehimselfbackbytherope，incaseoffailure；incaseofsuccess，hewastogivetheropeaseriesofviolentjerks，whereupontheExpeditionwouldgotohimatonce。

Hedeparted，andintwominuteshaddisappearedamongthetrees。Ipayedouttheropemyself，whileeverybodywatchedthecrawlingthingwitheagereyes。Theropecreptawayquiteslowly，attimes，atothertimeswithsomebriskness。Twiceorthriceweseemedtogetthesignal，andashoutwasjustreadytobreakfromthemen"slipswhentheyperceiveditwasafalsealarm。Butatlast，whenoverhalfamileofropehadsliddenaway，itstoppedglidingandstoodabsolutelystill——oneminute——twominutes——three——whileweheldourbreathandwatched。

Wastheguideresting?Washescanningthecountryfromsomehighpoint?Washeinquiringofachancemountaineer?

Stop，——hadhefaintedfromexcessoffatigueandanxiety?

Thisthoughtgaveusashock。IwasintheveryfirstactofdetailinganExpeditiontosuccorhim，whenthecordwasassailedwithaseriesofsuchfranticjerksthatI

couldhardlykeepholdofit。Thehuzzathatwentup，then，wasgoodtohear。"Saved!saved!"wasthewordthatrangout，alldownthelongrankofthecaravan。

Weroseupandstartedatonce。Wefoundtheroutetobegoodenoughforawhile，butitbegantogrowdifficult，byandby，andthisfeaturesteadilyincreased。Whenwejudgedwehadgonehalfamile，wemomentlyexpectedtoseetheguide；butno，hewasnotvisibleanywhere；

neitherwashewaiting，fortheropewasstillmoving，consequentlyhewasdoingthesame。Thisarguedthathehadnotfoundtheroad，yet，butwasmarchingtoitwithsomepeasant。Therewasnothingforustodobutplodalong——andthiswedid。Attheendofthreehourswewerestillplodding。Thiswasnotonlymysterious，butexasperating。Andveryfatiguing，too；forwehadtriedhard，alongatfirst，tocatchupwiththeguide，buthadonlyfaggedourselves，invain；foralthoughhewastravelingslowlyhewasyetabletogofasterthanthehamperedcaravanoversuchground。

Atthreeintheafternoonwewerenearlydeadwithexhaustion——andstilltheropewasslowlyglidingout。

Themurmursagainsttheguidehadbeengrowingsteadily，andatlasttheywerebecomeloudandsavage。

Amutinyensued。Themenrefusedtoproceed。Theydeclaredthatwehadbeentravelingoverandoverthesamegroundallday，inakindofcircle。Theydemandedthatourendoftheropebemadefasttoatree，soastohalttheguideuntilwecouldovertakehimandkillhim。

Thiswasnotanunreasonablerequirement，soIgavetheorder。

Assoonastheropewastied，theExpeditionmovedforwardwiththatalacritywhichthethirstforvengeanceusuallyinspires。Butafteratiresomemarchofalmosthalfamile，wecametoahillcoveredthickwithacrumblyrubbishofstones，andsosteepthatnomanofusallwasnowinaconditiontoclimbit。

Everyattemptfailed，andendedincripplingsomebody。

WithintwentyminutesIhadfivemenoncrutches。

Wheneveraclimbertriedtoassisthimselfbytherope，ityieldedandlethimtumblebackward。Thefrequencyofthisresultsuggestedanideatome。Iorderedthecaravanto"boutfaceandforminmarchingorder；

Ithenmadethetow-ropefasttotherearmule，andgavethecommand:

"Marktime——bytherightflank——forward——march!"

Theprocessionbegantomove，totheimpressivestrainsofabattle-chant，andIsaidtomyself，"Now，iftheropedon"tbreakIjudgeTHISwillfetchthatguideintothecamp。"

Iwatchedtheropeglidingdownthehill，andpresentlywhenIwasallfixedfortriumphIwasconfrontedbyabitterdisappointment；therewasnoguidetiedtotherope，itwasonlyaveryindignantoldblackram。

ThefuryofthebaffledExpeditionexceededallbounds。

Theyevenwantedtowreaktheirunreasoningvengeanceonthisinnocentdumbbrute。ButIstoodbetweenthemandtheirprey，menacedbyabristlingwallofice-axesandalpenstocks，andproclaimedthattherewasbutoneroadtothismurder，anditwasdirectlyovermycorpse。EvenasIspokeI

sawthatmydoomwassealed，exceptamiraclesupervenedtodivertthesemadmenfromtheirfellpurpose。Iseethesickeningwallofweaponsnow；IseethatadvancinghostasIsawitthen，Iseethehateinthosecrueleyes；

IrememberhowIdroopedmyheaduponmybreast，Ifeelagainthesuddenearthquakeshockinmyrear，administeredbytheveryramIwassacrificingmyselftosave；

IhearoncemorethetyphoonoflaughterthatburstfromtheassaultingcolumnasIcloveitfromvantorearlikeaSepoyshotfromaRodmangun。

Iwassaved。Yes，Iwassaved，andbythemercifulinstinctofingratitudewhichnaturehadplantedinthebreastofthattreacherousbeast。Thegracewhicheloquencehadfailedtoworkinthosemen"shearts，hadbeenwroughtbyalaugh。Theramwassetfreeandmylifewasspared。

Welivedtofindoutthatthatguidehaddesertedusassoonashehadplacedahalf-milebetweenhimselfandus。

Toavertsuspicion，hehadjudgeditbestthatthelineshouldcontinuetomove；sohecaughtthatram，andatthetimethathewassittingonitmakingtheropefasttoit，wewereimaginingthathewaslyinginaswoon，overcomebyfatigueanddistress。Whenheallowedtheramtogetupitfelltoplungingaround，tryingtoriditselfoftherope，andthiswasthesignalwhichwehadrisenupwithgladshoutstoobey。Wehadfollowedthisramroundandroundinacircleallday——athingwhichwasprovenbythediscoverythatwehadwateredtheExpeditionseventimesatoneandsamespringinsevenhours。

AsexpertawoodmanasIam，Ihadsomehowfailedtonoticethisuntilmyattentionwascalledtoitbyahog。

Thishogwasalwayswallowingthere，andashewastheonlyhogwesaw，hisfrequentrepetition，togetherwithhisunvaryingsimilaritytohimself，finallycausedmetoreflectthathemustbethesamehog，andthisledmetothedeductionthatthismustbethesamespring，also——whichindeeditwas。

Imadeanoteofthiscuriousthing，asshowinginastrikingmannertherelativedifferencebetweenglacialactionandtheactionofthehog。Itisnowawell-establishedfactthatglaciersmove；Iconsiderthatmyobservationsgotoshow，withequalconclusiveness，thatahoginaspringdoesnotmove。Ishallbegladtoreceivetheopinionsofotherobserversuponthispoint。

Toreturn，foranexplanatorymoment，tothatguide，andthenIshallbedonewithhim。Afterleavingtheramtiedtotherope，hehadwanderedatlargeawhile，andthenhappenedtorunacrossacow。Judgingthatacowwouldnaturallyknowmorethanaguide，hetookherbythetail，andtheresultjustifiedhisjudgment。

Shenibbledherleisurelywaydownhilltillitwasnearmilking-time，thenshestruckforhomeandtowedhimintoZermatt。

CHAPTERXXXVIII

[IConquertheGornerGrat]

Wewentintocamponthatwildspottowhichthatramhadbroughtus。Themenweregreatlyfatigued。

Theirconvictionthatwewerelostwasforgotteninthecheerofagoodsupper，andbeforethereactionhadachancetosetin，Iloadedthemupwithparegoricandputthemtobed。

NextmorningIwasconsideringinmymindourdesperatesituationandtryingtothinkofaremedy，whenHarriscametomewithaBaedekermapwhichshowedconclusivelythatthemountainwewereonwasstillinSwitzerland——yes，everypartofitwasinSwitzerland。Sowewerenotlost，afterall。Thiswasanimmenserelief；itliftedtheweightoftwosuchmountainsfrommybreast。Iimmediatelyhadthenewsdisseminatedandthemapwasexhibited。

Theeffectwaswonderful。Assoonasthemensawwiththeirowneyesthattheyknewwheretheywere，andthatitwasonlythesummitthatwaslostandnotthemselves，theycheeredupinstantlyandsaidwithoneaccord，letthesummittakecareofitself。

Ourdistressesbeingatanend，InowdeterminedtorestthemenincampandgivethescientificdepartmentoftheExpeditionachance。First，Imadeabarometricobservation，togetouraltitude，butIcouldnotperceivethattherewasanyresult。Iknew，bymyscientificreading，thateitherthermometersorbarometersoughttobeboiled，tomakethemaccurate；Ididnotknowwhichitwas，soIboiledthemboth。Therewasstillnoresult；

soIexaminedtheseinstrumentsanddiscoveredthattheypossessedradicalblemishes:thebarometerhadnohandbutthebrasspointerandtheballofthethermometerwasstuffedwithtin-foil。Imighthaveboiledthosethingstorags，andneverfoundoutanything。

Ihuntedupanotherbarometer；itwasnewandperfect。

Iboiledithalfanhourinapotofbeansoupwhichthecooksweremaking。Theresultwasunexpected:theinstrumentwasnotaffectingatall，buttherewassuchastrongbarometertastetothesoupthattheheadcook，whowasamostconscientiousperson，changeditsnameinthebilloffare。Thedishwassogreatlylikedbyall，thatIorderedthecooktohavebarometersoupeveryday。

Itwasbelievedthatthebarometermighteventuallybeinjured，butIdidnotcareforthat。Ihaddemonstratedtomysatisfactionthatitcouldnottellhowhighamountainwas，thereforeIhadnorealuseforit。

ChangesintheweatherIcouldtakecareofwithoutit；

Ididnotwishtoknowwhentheweatherwasgoingtobegood，whatIwantedtoknowwaswhenitwasgoingtobebad，andthisIcouldfindoutfromHarris"scorns。HarrishadhadhiscornstestedandregulatedatthegovernmentobservatoryinHeidelberg，andonecoulddependuponthemwithconfidence。SoItransferredthenewbarometertothecookingdepartment，tobeusedfortheofficialmess。

Itwasfoundthatevenaprettyfairarticleofsoupcouldbemadefromthedefectivebarometer；soIallowedthatonetobetransferredtothesubordinatemess。

Inextboiledthethermometer，andgotamostexcellentresult；

themercurywentuptoabout200degreesFahrenheit。

IntheopinionoftheotherscientistsoftheExpedition，thisseemedtoindicatethatwehadattainedtheextraordinaryaltitudeoftwohundredthousandfeetabovesea-level。

Scienceplacesthelineofeternalsnowatabouttenthousandfeetabovesea-level。Therewasnosnowwherewewere，consequentlyitwasproventhattheeternalsnow-lineceasessomewhereabovetheten-thousand-footlevelanddoesnotbeginanymore。Thiswasaninterestingfact，andonewhichhadnotbeenobservedbyanyobserverbefore。

Itwasasvaluableasinteresting，too，sinceitwouldopenupthedesertedsummitsofthehighestAlpstopopulationandagriculture。Itwasaproudthingtobewherewewere，yetitcausedusapangtoreflectthatbutforthatramwemightjustaswellbeentwohundredthousandfeethigher。

Thesuccessofmylastexperimentinducedmetotryanexperimentwithmyphotographicapparatus。Igotitout，andboiledoneofmycameras，butthethingwasafailure；

itmadethewoodswellupandburst，andIcouldnotseethatthelenseswereanybetterthantheywerebefore。

Inowconcludedtoboilaguide。Itmightimprovehim，itcouldnotimpairhisusefulness。ButIwasnotallowedtoproceed。Guideshavenofeelingforscience，andthisonewouldnotconsenttobemadeuncomfortableinitsinterest。

Inthemidstofmyscientificwork，oneofthoseneedlessaccidentshappenedwhicharealwaysoccurringamongtheignorantandthoughtless。AportershotatachamoisandmisseditandcrippledtheLatinist。

Thiswasnotaseriousmattertome，foraLatinist"sdutiesareaswellperformedoncrutchesasotherwise——

butthefactremainedthatiftheLatinisthadnothappenedtobeinthewayamulewouldhavegotthatload。Thatwouldhavebeenquiteanothermatter，forwhenitcomesdowntoaquestionofvaluethereisapalpabledifferencebetweenaLatinistandamule。

IcouldnotdependonhavingaLatinistintherightplaceeverytime；so，tomakethingssafe，Iorderedthatinthefuturethechamoismustnotbehuntedwithinlimitsofthecampwithanyotherweaponthantheforefinger。

Mynerveshadhardlygrownquietafterthisaffairwhentheygotanothershake-up——onewhichutterlyunmannedmeforamoment:arumorsweptsuddenlythroughthecampthatoneofthebarkeepershadfallenoveraprecipice!

However，itturnedoutthatitwasonlyachaplain。

Ihadlaidinanextraforceofchaplains，purposelytobepreparedforemergencieslikethis，butbysomeunaccountableoversighthadcomeawayrathershort-handedinthematterofbarkeepers。

Onthefollowingmorningwemovedon，wellrefreshedandingoodspirits。Irememberthisdaywithpeculiarpleasure，becauseitsawourroadrestoredtous。Yes，wefoundourroadagain，andinquiteanextraordinaryway。

Wehadploddedalongsometwohoursandahalf，whenwecameupagainstasolidmassofrockabouttwentyfeethigh。

Ididnotneedtobeinstructedbyamulethistime。

IwasalreadybeginningtoknowmorethananymuleintheExpedition。Iatonceputinablastofdynamite，andliftedthatrockoutoftheway。Buttomysurpriseandmortification，Ifoundthattherehadbeenachaletontopofit。

Ipickedupsuchmembersofthefamilyasfellinmyvicinity，andsubordinatesofmycorpscollectedtherest。

Noneofthesepoorpeoplewereinjured，happily，buttheyweremuchannoyed。Iexplainedtotheheadchaleteerjusthowthethinghappened，andthatIwasonlysearchingfortheroad，andwouldcertainlyhavegivenhimtimelynoticeifIhadknownhewasupthere。IsaidIhadmeantnoharm，andhopedIhadnotloweredmyselfinhisestimationbyraisinghimafewrodsintheair。

Isaidmanyotherjudiciousthings，andfinallywhenI

offeredtorebuildhischalet，andpayforthebreakages，andthrowinthecellar，hewasmollifiedandsatisfied。

Hehadn"tanycellaratall，before；hewouldnothaveasgoodaview，now，asformerly，butwhathehadlostinviewhehadgainedincellar，byexactmeasurement。

Hesaidtherewasn"tanotherholelikethatinthemountains——

andhewouldhavebeenrightifthelatemulehadnottriedtoeatupthenitroglycerin。

Iputahundredandsixteenmenatwork，andtheyrebuiltthechaletfromitsowndebrisinfifteenminutes。

Itwasagooddealmorepicturesquethanitwasbefore，too。ThemansaidwewerenowontheFeil-Stutz，abovetheSchwegmatt——informationwhichIwasgladtoget，sinceitgaveusourpositiontoadegreeofparticularitywhichwehadnotbeenaccustomedtoforadayorso。

WealsolearnedthatwewerestandingatthefootoftheRiffelbergproper，andthattheinitialchapterofourworkwascompleted。

Wehadafineview，fromhere，oftheenergeticVisp，asitmakesitsfirstplungeintotheworldfromunderahugearchofsolidice，wornthroughthefoot-wallofthegreatGornerGlacier；andwecouldalsoseetheFurggenbach，whichistheoutletoftheFurggenGlacier。

Themule-roadtothesummitoftheRiffelbergpassedrightinfrontofthechalet，acircumstancewhichwealmostimmediatelynoticed，becauseaprocessionoftouristswasfilingalongitprettymuchallthetime。[1]Thechaleteer"sbusinessconsistedinfurnishingrefreshmentstotourists。

Myblasthadinterruptedthistradeforafewminutes，bybreakingallthebottlesontheplace；butIgavethemanalotofwhiskeytosellforAlpinechampagne，andalotofvinegarwhichwouldanswerforRhinewine，consequentlytradewassoonasbriskasever。

1。"Prettymuch"maynotbeelegantEnglish，butitishightimeitwas。Thereisnoelegantwordorphrasewhichmeansjustwhatitmeans——M。T。

LeavingtheExpeditionoutsidetorest，Iquarteredmyselfinthechalet，withHarris，proposingtocorrectmyjournalsandscientificobservationsbeforecontinuingtheascent。

Ihadhardlybegunmyworkwhenatall，slender，vigorousAmericanyouthofabouttwenty-three，whowasonhiswaydownthemountain，enteredandcametowardmewiththatbreezeself-complacencywhichistheadolescent"sideaofthewell-bredeaseofthemanoftheworld。

Hishairwasshortandpartedaccuratelyinthemiddle，andhehadallthelookofanAmericanpersonwhowouldbelikelytobeginhissignaturewithaninitial，andspellhismiddlenameout。Heintroducedhimself，smilingasmirkysmileborrowedfromthecourtiersofthestage，extendedafair-skinnedtalon，andwhilehegrippedmyhandinithebenthisbodyforwardthreetimesatthehips，asthestagecourtierdoes，andsaidintheairiestandmostcondescendingandpatronizingway——Iquiterememberhisexactlanguage:

"Verygladtomakeyouracquaintance，"msure；verygladindeed，assureyou。I"vereadallyourlittleeffortsandgreatlyadmiredthem，andwhenIheardyouwerehere，I……"

Iindicatedachair，andhesatdown。ThisgrandeewasthegrandsonofanAmericanofconsiderablenoteinhisday，andnotwhollyforgottenyet——amanwhocamesonearbeingagreatmanthathewasquitegenerallyaccountedonewhilehelived。

Islowlypacedthefloor，ponderingscientificproblems，andheardthisconversation:

GRANDSON。FirstvisittoEurope?

HARRIS。Mine?Yes。

G。S。(Withasoftreminiscentsighsuggestiveofbygonejoysthatmaybetastedintheirfreshnessbutonce。)

Ah，Iknowwhatitistoyou。Afirstvisit!——ah，theromanceofit!IwishIcouldfeelitagain。

H。Yes，Ifinditexceedsallmydreams。Itisenchantment。

Igo……

G。S。(Withadaintygestureofthehandsignifying"Sparemeyourcallowenthusiasms，goodfriend。")Yes，_I_know，Iknow；yougotocathedrals，andexclaim；andyoudragthroughleague-longpicture-galleriesandexclaim；andyoustandhere，andthere，andyonder，uponhistoricground，andcontinuetoexclaim；andyouarepermeatedwithyourfirstcrudeconceptionsofArt，andareproudandhappy。Ah，yes，proudandhappy——thatexpressesit。

Yes-yes，enjoyit——itisright——itisaninnocentrevel。

H。Andyou?Don"tyoudothesethingsnow?

G。S。I!Oh，thatisVERYgood!Mydearsir，whenyouareasoldatravelerasIam，youwillnotasksuchaquestionasthat。_I_visittheregulationgallery，moonaroundtheregulationcathedral，dothewornroundoftheregulationsights，YET?——Excuseme!

H。Well，whatDOyoudo，then?

G。S。Do?Iflit——andflit——forIameveronthewing——butI

avoidtheherd。TodayIaminParis，tomorrowinBerlin，anoninRome；butyouwouldlookformeinvaininthegalleriesoftheLouvreorthecommonresortsofthegazersinthoseothercapitals。Ifyouwouldfindme，youmustlookintheunvisitednooksandcornerswhereothersneverthinkofgoing。Onedayyouwillfindmemakingmyselfathomeinsomeobscurepeasant"scabin，anotherdayyouwillfindmeinsomeforgottencastleworshipingsomelittlegemorartwhichthecarelesseyehasoverlookedandwhichtheunexperiencedwoulddespise；

againyouwillfindmeasguestintheinnersanctuariesofpalaceswhiletheherdiscontenttogetahurriedglimpseoftheunusedchambersbyfeeingaservant。