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Roughing It
投诉 阅读记录

第9章

CHAPTERLII。

SinceIdesire,inthischapter,tosayaninstructivewordortwoaboutthesilvermines,thereadermaytakethisfairwarningandskip,ifhechooses。Theyear1863wasperhapstheverytopblossomandculminationofthe“flushtimes。”Virginiaswarmedwithmenandvehiclestothatdegreethattheplacelookedlikeaveryhive——thatiswhenone"svisioncouldpiercethroughthethickfogofalkalidustthatwasgenerallyblowinginsummer。Iwillsay,concerningthisdust,thatifyoudrovetenmilesthroughit,youandyourhorseswouldbecoatedwithitasixteenthofaninchthickandpresentanoutsideappearancethatwasauniformpaleyellowcolor,andyourbuggywouldhavethreeinchesofdustinit,throwntherebythewheels。Thedelicatescalesusedbytheassayerswereinclosedinglasscasesintendedtobeair-tight,andyetsomeofthisdustwassoimpalpableandsoinvisiblyfinethatitwouldgetin,somehow,andimpairtheaccuracyofthosescales。

Speculationranriot,andyettherewasaworldofsubstantialbusinessgoingon,too。AllfreightswerebroughtoverthemountainsfromCalifornia(150miles)bypack-trainpartly,andpartlyinhugewagonsdrawnbysuchlongmuleteamsthateachteamamountedtoaprocession,anditdidseem,sometimes,thatthegrandcombinedprocessionofanimalsstretchedunbrokenfromVirginiatoCalifornia。ItslongroutewastraceableclearacrossthedesertsfotheTerritorybythewrithingserpentofdustitliftedup。Bythesewagons,freightsoverthathundredandfiftymileswere$200atonforsmalllots(samepriceforallexpressmatterbroughtbystage),and$100atonforfullloads。

OneVirginiafirmreceivedonehundredtonsoffreightamonth,andpaid$10,000amonthfreightage。Inthewinterthefreightsweremuchhigher。

AllthebullionwasshippedinbarsbystagetoSanFrancisco(abarwasusuallyabouttwicethesizeofapigofleadandcontainedfrom$1,500

to$3,000accordingtotheamountofgoldmixedwiththesilver),andthefreightonit(whentheshipmentwaslarge)wasoneandaquarterpercent。ofitsintrinsicvalue。

So,thefreightonthesebarsprobablyaveragedsomethingmorethan$25

each。Smallshipperspaidtwopercent。Therewerethreestagesaday,eachway,andIhaveseentheout-goingstagescarryawayathirdofatonofbullioneach,andmorethanonceIsawthemdivideatwo-tonlotandtakeitoff。However,thesewereextraordinaryevents。

[Mr。Valentine,WellsFargo"sagent,hashandledallthebullionshippedthroughtheVirginiaofficeformanyamonth。Tohismemory——whichisexcellent——weareindebtedforthefollowingexhibitofthecompany"sbusinessintheVirginiaofficesincethefirstofJanuary,1862:FromJanuary1sttoApril1st,about$270,000worthofbullionpassedthroughthatoffice,duringthenextquarter,$570,000;nextquarter,$800,000;

nextquarter,$956,000;nextquarter,$1,275,000;andforthequarterendingonthe30thoflastJune,about$1,600,000。Thusinayearandahalf,theVirginiaofficeonlyshipped$5,330,000inbullion。Duringtheyear1862theyshipped$2,615,000,soweperceivetheaverageshipmentshavemorethandoubledinthelastsixmonths。ThisgivesusroomtopromisefortheVirginiaoffice$500,000amonthfortheyear1863

(thoughperhaps,judgingbythesteadyincreaseinthebusiness,weareunderestimating,somewhat)。Thisgivesus$6,000,000fortheyear。

GoldHillandSilverCitytogethercanbeatus——wewillgivethem$10,000,000。ToDayton,EmpireCity,OphirandCarsonCity,wewillallowanaggregateof$8,000,000,whichisnotoverthemark,perhaps,andmaypossiblybealittleunderit。ToEsmeraldawegive$4,000,000。

ToReeseRiverandHumboldt$2,000,000,whichisliberalnow,butmaynotbebeforetheyearisout。Soweprognosticatethattheyieldofbullionthisyearwillbeabout$30,000,000。PlacingthenumberofmillsintheTerritoryatonehundred,thisgivestoeachthelaborofproducing$300,000inbullionduringthetwelvemonths。Allowingthemtorunthreehundreddaysintheyear(whichnoneofthemmorethando),thismakestheirworkaverage$1,000aday。Saythemillsaveragetwentytonsofrockadayandthisrockworth$50asageneralthing,andyouhavetheactualworkofouronehundredmillsfigureddown“toaspot“——$1,000adayeach,and$30,000,000ayearintheaggregate——Enterprise。

[Aconsiderableoverestimate——M。T。]]

Twotonsofsilverbullionwouldbeintheneighborhoodoffortybars,andthefreightonitover$1,000。Eachcoachalwayscarriedadealofordinaryexpressmatterbeside,andalsofromfifteentotwentypassengersatfrom$25to$30ahead。Withsixstagesgoingallthetime,Wells,FargoandCo。"sVirginiaCitybusinesswasimportantandlucrative。

AllalongunderthecentreofVirginiaandGoldHill,foracoupleofmiles,ranthegreatComstocksilverlode——aveinoforefromfiftytoeightyfeetthickbetweenitssolidwallsofrock——aveinaswideassomeofNewYork"sstreets。IwillremindthereaderthatinPennsylvaniaacoalveinonlyeightfeetwideisconsideredample。

Virginiawasabusycityofstreetsandhousesaboveground。Underitwasanotherbusycity,downinthebowelsoftheearth,whereagreatpopulationofmenthrongedinandoutamonganintricatemazeoftunnelsanddrifts,flittinghitherandthitherunderawinkingsparkleoflights,andovertheirheadstoweredavastwebofinterlockingtimbersthatheldthewallsoftheguttedComstockapart。Thesetimberswereaslargeasaman"sbody,andtheframeworkstretchedupwardsofarthatnoeyecouldpiercetoitstopthroughtheclosinggloom。Itwaslikepeeringupthroughtheclean-pickedribsandbonesofsomecolossalskeleton。Imaginesuchaframeworktwomileslong,sixtyfeetwide,andhigherthananychurchspireinAmerica。Imaginethisstatelylattice-

workstretchingdownBroadway,fromtheSt。NicholastoWallstreet,andaFourthofJulyprocession,reducedtopigmies,paradingontopofitandflauntingtheirflags,highabovethepinnacleofTrinitysteeple。

Onecanimaginethat,buthecannotwellimaginewhatthatforestoftimberscost,fromthetimetheywerefelledinthepineriesbeyondWashoeLake,hauledupandaroundMountDavidsonatatrociousratesoffreightage,thensquared,letdownintothedeepmawofthemineandbuiltupthere。Twentyamplefortuneswouldnottimberoneofthegreatestofthosesilvermines。TheSpanishproverbsaysitrequiresagoldmineto“run“asilverone,anditistrue。Abeggarwithasilvermineisapitiablepauperindeedifhecannotsell。

IspokeoftheundergroundVirginiaasacity。TheGouldandCurryisonlyonesinglemineunderthere,amongagreatmanyothers;yettheGouldandCurry"sstreetsofdismaldriftsandtunnelswerefivemilesinextent,altogether,anditspopulationfivehundredminers。Takenasawhole,theundergroundcityhadsomethirtymilesofstreetsandapopulationoffiveorsixthousand。InthispresentdaysomeofthosepopulationsareatworkfromtwelvetosixteenhundredfeetunderVirginiaandGoldHill,andthesignal-bellsthattellthemwhatthesuperintendentabovegrounddesiresthemtodoarestruckbytelegraphaswestrikeafirealarm。Sometimesmenfalldownashaft,there,athousandfeetdeep。Insuchcases,theusualplanistoholdaninquest。

Ifyouwishtovisitoneofthosemines,youmaywalkthroughatunnelabouthalfamilelongifyoupreferit,oryoumaytakethequickerplanofshootinglikeadartdownashaft,onasmallplatform。Itisliketumblingdownthroughanemptysteeple,feetfirst。Whenyoureachthebottom,youtakeacandleandtrampthroughdriftsandtunnelswherethrongsofmenarediggingandblasting;youwatchthemsenduptubsfullofgreatlumpsofstone——silverore;youselectchoicespecimensfromthemass,assouvenirs;youadmiretheworldofskeletontimbering;youreflectfrequentlythatyouareburiedunderamountain,athousandfeetbelowdaylight;beinginthebottomofthemineyouclimbfrom“gallery“

to“gallery,“upendlessladdersthatstandstraightupanddown;whenyourlegsfailyouatlast,youliedowninasmallbox-carinacramped“incline“likeahalf-up-endedsewerandaredraggeduptodaylightfeelingasifyouarecrawlingthroughacoffinthathasnoendtoit。

Arrivedatthetop,youfindabusycrowdofmenreceivingtheascendingcarsandtubsanddumpingtheorefromanelevationintolongrowsofbinscapableofholdinghalfadozentonseach;underthebinsarerowsofwagonsloadingfromchutesandtrap-doorsinthebins,anddownthelongstreetisaprocessionofthesewagonswendingtowardthesilvermillswiththeirrichfreight。Itisall“done,“now,andthereyouare。

Youneednevergodownagain,foryouhaveseenitall。Ifyouhaveforgottentheprocessofreducingtheoreinthemillandmakingthesilverbars,youcangobackandfinditagaininmyEsmeraldachaptersifsodisposed。

Ofcoursetheseminescavein,inplaces,occasionally,andthenitisworthone"swhiletotaketheriskofdescendingintothemandobservingthecrushingpowerexertedbythepressingweightofasettlingmountain。

IpublishedsuchanexperienceintheEnterprise,once,andfromitI

willtakeanextract:

ANHOURINTHECAVEDMINES——WejourneyeddownintotheOphirmine,yesterday,toseetheearthquake。Wecouldnotgodownthedeepincline,becauseitstillhasapropensitytocaveinplaces。

ThereforewetraveledthroughthelongtunnelwhichentersthehillabovetheOphiroffice,andthenbymeansofaseriesoflongladders,climbedawaydownfromthefirsttothefourthgallery。

Traversingadrift,wecametotheSpanishline,passedfivesetsoftimbersstilluninjured,andfoundtheearthquake。Herewasascompleteachaosaseverwasseen——vastmassesofearthandsplinteredandbrokentimberspiledconfusedlytogether,withscarcelyanapertureleftlargeenoughforacattocreepthrough。

Rubbishwasstillfallingatintervalsfromabove,andonetimberwhichhadbracedothersearlierintheday,wasnowcrusheddownoutofitsformerposition,showingthatthecavingandsettlingofthetremendousmasswasstillgoingon。WewereinthatportionoftheOphirknownasthe“northmines。”Returningtothesurface,weenteredatunnelleadingintotheCentral,forthepurposeofgettingintothemainOphir。Descendingalonginclineinthistunnel,wetraversedadriftorso,andthenwentdownadeepshaftfromwhenceweproceededintothefifthgalleryoftheOphir。Fromaside-driftwecrawledthroughasmallholeandgotintothemidstoftheearthquakeagain——earthandbrokentimbersmingledtogetherwithoutregardtograceorsymmetry。Alargeportionofthesecond,thirdandfourthgallerieshadcavedinandgonetodestruction——thetwolatteratseveno"clockonthepreviousevening。

Attheturn-table,nearthenorthernextremityofthefifthgallery,twobigpilesofrubbishhadforcedtheirwaythroughfromthefifthgallery,andfromthelooksofthetimbers,morewasabouttocome。

Thesebeamsaresolid——eighteeninchessquare;first,agreatbeamislaidonthefloor,thenuprightones,fivefeethigh,standonit,supportinganotherhorizontalbeam,andsoon,squareabovesquare,liketheframeworkofawindow。Thesuperincumbentweightwassufficienttomashtheendsofthosegreatuprightbeamsfairlyintothesolidwoodofthehorizontalonesthreeinches,compressingandbendingtheuprightbeamtillitcurvedlikeabow。BeforetheSpanishcavedin,someoftheirtwelve-inchhorizontaltimberswerecompressedinthiswayuntiltheywereonlyfiveinchesthick!

Imaginethepoweritmusttaketosqueezeasolidlogtogetherinthatway。Here,also,wasarangeoftimbers,foradistanceoftwentyfeet,tiltedsixinchesoutoftheperpendicularbytheweightrestinguponthemfromthecavedgalleriesabove。Youcouldhearthingscrackingandgivingway,anditwasnotpleasanttoknowthattheworldoverheadwasslowlyandsilentlysinkingdownuponyou。Themendownintheminedonotmindit,however。

Returningalongthefifthgallery,westruckthesafepartoftheOphirincline,andwentdownittothesixth;butwefoundteninchesofwaterthere,andhadtocomeback。Inrepairingthedamagedonetotheincline,thepumphadtobestoppedfortwohours,andinthemeantimethewatergainedaboutafoot。However,thepumpwasatworkagain,andtheflood-waterwasdecreasing。

Weclimbeduptothefifthgalleryagainandsoughtadeepshaft,wherebywemightdescendtoanotherpartofthesixth,outofreachofthewater,butsuffereddisappointment,asthemenhadgonetodinner,andtherewasnoonetomanthewindlass。So,havingseentheearthquake,weclimbedoutattheUnioninclineandtunnel,andadjourned,alldrippingwithcandlegreaseandperspiration,tolunchattheOphiroffice。

Duringthegreatflushyearof1863,Nevada[claimstohave]

produced$25,000,000inbullion——almost,ifnotquite,aroundmilliontoeachthousandinhabitants,whichisverywell,consideringthatshewaswithoutagricultureandmanufactures。

Silverminingwashersoleproductiveindustry。[Sincetheabovewasintype,Ilearnfromanofficialsourcethattheabovefigureistoohigh,andthattheyieldfor1863didnotexceed$20,000,000。

However,thedayforlargefiguresisapproaching;theSutroTunnelistoplowthroughtheComstocklodefromendtoend,atadepthoftwothousandfeet,andthenminingwillbeeasyandcomparativelyinexpensive;andthemomentousmattersofdrainage,andhoistingandhaulingoforewillceasetobeburdensome。Thisvastworkwillabsorbmanyyears,andmillionsofdollars,initscompletion;butitwillearlyyieldmoney,forthatdesirableepochwillbeginassoonasitstrikesthefirstendofthevein。Thetunnelwillbesomeeightmileslong,andwilldevelopastonishingriches。Carswillcarrytheorethroughthetunnelanddumpitinthemillsandthusdoawaywiththepresentcostlysystemofdoublehandlingandtransportationbymuleteams。Thewaterfromthetunnelwillfurnishthemotivepowerforthemills。Mr。Sutro,theoriginatorofthisprodigiousenterprise,isoneofthefewmenintheworldwhoisgiftedwiththepluckandperseverancenecessarytofollowupandhoundsuchanundertakingtoitscompletion。HehasconvertedseveralobstinateCongressestoadeservedfriendlinesstowardhisimportantwork,andhasgoneupanddownandtoandfroinEuropeuntilhehasenlistedagreatmoneyedinterestinitthere。

CHAPTERLIII。

Everynowandthen,inthesedays,theboysusedtotellmeIoughttogetoneJimBlainetotellmethestirringstoryofhisgrandfather"soldram——buttheyalwaysaddedthatImustnotmentionthematterunlessJimwasdrunkatthetime——justcomfortablyandsociablydrunk。Theykeptthisupuntilmycuriositywasontheracktohearthestory。IgottohauntingBlaine;butitwasofnouse,theboysalwaysfoundfaultwithhiscondition;hewasoftenmoderatelybutneversatisfactorilydrunk。

Ineverwatchedaman"sconditionwithsuchabsorbinginterest,suchanxioussolicitude;Ineversopinedtoseeamanuncompromisinglydrunkbefore。Atlast,oneeveningIhurriedtohiscabin,forIlearnedthatthistimehissituationwassuchthateventhemostfastidiouscouldfindnofaultwithit——hewastranquilly,serenely,symmetricallydrunk——notahiccuptomarhisvoice,notaclouduponhisbrainthickenoughtoobscurehismemory。AsIentered,hewassittinguponanemptypowder-

keg,withaclaypipeinonehandandtheotherraisedtocommandsilence。Hisfacewasround,red,andveryserious;histhroatwasbareandhishairtumbled;ingeneralappearanceandcostumehewasastalwartmineroftheperiod。Onthepinetablestoodacandle,anditsdimlightrevealed“theboys“sittinghereandthereonbunks,candle-boxes,powder-kegs,etc。Theysaid:

“Sh——!Don"tspeak——he"sgoingtocommence。”

THESTORYOFTHEOLDRAM。

Ifoundaseatatonce,andBlainesaid:

"Idon"treckonthemtimeswillevercomeagain。Thereneverwasamorebullieroldramthanwhathewas。GrandfatherfetchedhimfromIllinois——gothimofamanbythenameofYates——BillYates——maybeyoumighthaveheardofhim;hisfatherwasadeacon——Baptist——andhewasarustler,too;amanhadtogetuprutherearlytogetthestartofoldThankfulYates;itwashimthatputtheGreensuptojiningteamswithmygrandfatherwhenhemovedwest。

SethGreenwasprob"lythepickoftheflock;hemarriedaWilkerson——

SarahWilkerson——goodcretur,shewas——oneofthelikeliestheifersthatwaseverraisedinoldStoddard,everybodysaidthatknowedher。Shecouldheftabar"lofflouraseasyasIcanflirtaflapjack。Andspin?

Don"tmentionit!Independent?Humph!WhenSileHawkinscomeabrowsingaroundher,shelethimknowthatforallhistinhecouldn"ttrotinharnessalongsideofher。Yousee,SileHawkinswas——no,itwarn"tSileHawkins,afterall——itwasagalootbythenameofFilkins——

Idisrememberhisfirstname;buthewasastump——comeintopra"rmeetingdrunk,onenight,hoorayingforNixon,becuzhethoughtitwasaprimary;

andolddeaconFergusonupandscootedhimthroughthewindowandhelitonoldMissJefferson"shead,pooroldfilly。Shewasagoodsoul——hadaglasseyeandusedtolendittooldMissWagner,thathadn"tany,toreceivecompanyin;itwarn"tbigenough,andwhenMissWagnerwarn"tnoticing,itwouldgettwistedaroundinthesocket,andlookup,maybe,orouttooneside,andeverywhichway,whilet"otheronewaslookingasstraightaheadasaspy-glass。

Grownpeopledidn"tmindit,butitmostalwaysmadethechildrencry,itwassosortofscary。Shetriedpackingitinrawcotton,butitwouldn"twork,somehow——thecottonwouldgetlooseandstickoutandlooksokindofawfulthatthechildrencouldn"tstanditnoway。Shewasalwaysdroppingitout,andturningupherolddead-lightonthecompanyempty,andmakingthemoncomfortable,becuzshenevercouldtellwhenithoppedout,beingblindonthatside,yousee。Sosomebodywouldhavetohunchherandsay,“Yourgameeyehasfetchedloose。MissWagnerdear“——

andthenallofthemwouldhavetositandwaittillshejammeditinagain——wrongsidebefore,asageneralthing,andgreenasabird"segg,beingabashfulcreturandeasysotbackbeforecompany。Butbeingwrongsidebeforewarn"tmuchdifference,anyway;becuzherowneyewassky-

blueandtheglassonewasyalleronthefrontside,sowhicheverwaysheturnedititdidn"tmatchnohow。

OldMissWagnerwasconsiderableontheborrow,shewas。Whenshehadaquilting,orDorcasS"ietyatherhouseshegen"allyborrowedMissHiggins"swoodenlegtostumparoundon;itwasconsiderableshorterthanherotherpin,butmuchshemindedthat。Shesaidshecouldn"tabidecrutcheswhenshehadcompany,becuztheyweresoslow;saidwhenshehadcompanyandthingshadtobedone,shewantedtogetupandhumpherself。

Shewasasbaldasajug,andsosheusedtoborrowMissJacops"swig——

MissJacopswasthecoffin-peddler"swife——arattyoldbuzzard,hewas,thatusedtogoroostingaroundwherepeoplewassick,waitingfor"em;

andtherethatoldripwouldsitallday,intheshade,onacoffinthathejudgedwouldfitthecan"idate;andifitwasaslowcustomerandkindofuncertain,he"dfetchhisrationsandablanketalongandsleepinthecoffinnights。Hewasanchoredoutthatway,infrostyweather,foraboutthreeweeks,once,beforeoldRobbins"splace,waitingforhim;andafterthat,forasmuchastwoyears,Jacopswasnotonspeakingtermswiththeoldman,onaccountofhisdisapp"intinghim。Hegotoneofhisfeetfroze,andlostmoney,too,becuzoldRobbinstookafavorableturnandgotwell。ThenexttimeRobbinsgotsick,Jacopstriedtomakeupwithhim,andvarnishedupthesameoldcoffinandfetcheditalong;butoldRobbinswastoomanyforhim;hehadhimin,and"pearedtobepowerfulweak;heboughtthecoffinfortendollarsandJacopswastopayitbackandtwenty-fivemorebesidesifRobbinsdidn"tlikethecoffinafterhe"dtriedit。AndthenRobbinsdied,andatthefuneralheburstedoffthelidandrizupinhisshroudandtoldtheparsontoletupontheperformances,becuzhecouldnotstandsuchacoffinasthat。

Youseehehadbeeninatranceoncebefore,whenhewasyoung,andhetookthechancesonanother,cal"latingthatifhemadethetripitwasmoneyinhispocket,andifhemissedfirehecouldn"tloseacent。AndbyGeorgehesuedJacopsfortherhinoandgotjedgment;andhesetupthecoffininhisbackparlorandsaidhe"lowedtotakehistime,now。

ItwasalwaysanaggravationtoJacops,thewaythatmiserableoldthingacted。HemovedbacktoIndianyprettysoon——wenttoWellsville——

WellsvillewastheplacetheHogadornswasfrom。Mightyfinefamily。

OldMarylandstock。OldSquireHogadorncouldcarryaroundmoremixedlicker,andcussbetterthanmostanymanIeversee。HissecondwifewasthewidderBillings——shethatwasBeckyMartin;herdamwasdeaconDunlap"sfirstwife。Heroldestchild,Maria,marriedamissionaryanddiedingrace——etupbythesavages。Theyethim,too,poorfeller——

biledhim。Itwarn"tthecustom,sotheysay,buttheyexplainedtofriendsofhis"nthatwentdowntheretobringawayhisthings,thatthey"dtriedmissionarieseveryotherwayandnevercouldgetanygoodoutof"em——andsoitannoyedallhisrelationstofindoutthatthatman"slifewasfooledawayjustoutofadern"dexperiment,sotospeak。

Butmindyou,thereain"tanythingeverreelylost;everythingthatpeoplecan"tunderstandanddon"tseethereasonofdoesgoodifyouonlyholdonandgiveitafairshake;Prov"dencedon"tfirenoblankca"tridges,boys。Thattheremissionary"ssubstance,unbeknownstohimself,actu"lyconvertedeverylastoneofthemheathensthattookachanceatthebarbacue。Nothingeverfetchedthembutthat。Don"ttellmeitwasanaccidentthathewasbiled。Thereain"tnosuchathingasanaccident。

WhenmyuncleLemwasleaningupaginascaffoldingonce,sick,ordrunk,orsuthin,anIrishmanwithahodfullofbricksfellonhimoutofthethirdstoryandbroketheoldman"sbackintwoplaces。Peoplesaiditwasanaccident。Muchaccidenttherewasaboutthat。Hedidn"tknowwhathewastherefor,buthewasthereforagoodobject。Ifhehadn"tbeentheretheIrishmanwouldhavebeenkilled。Nobodycanevermakemebelieveanythingdifferentfromthat。UncleLem"sdogwasthere。Whydidn"ttheIrishmanfallonthedog?Becuzthedogwouldaseenhimacomingandstoodfromunder。That"sthereasonthedogwarn"tappinted。

Adogcan"tbedependedontocarryoutaspecialprovidence。Markmywordsitwasaput-upthing。Accidentsdon"thappen,boys。UncleLem"sdog——Iwishyoucouldaseenthatdog。Hewasareglarshepherd——orrutherhewaspartbullandpartshepherd——splendidanimal;belongedtoparsonHagarbeforeUncleLemgothim。ParsonHagarbelongedtotheWesternReserveHagars;primefamily;hismotherwasaWatson;oneofhissistersmarriedaWheeler;theysettledinMorgancounty,andhegotnippedbythemachineryinacarpetfactoryandwentthroughinlessthanaquarterofaminute;hiswidderboughtthepieceofcarpetthathadhisremainswovein,andpeoplecomeahundredmileto"tendthefuneral。

Therewasfourteenyardsinthepiece。

Shewouldn"tletthemrollhimup,butplantedhimjustso——fulllength。

Thechurchwasmiddlingsmallwheretheypreachedthefuneral,andtheyhadtoletoneendofthecoffinstickoutofthewindow。Theydidn"tburyhim——theyplantedoneend,andlethimstandup,sameasamonument。

Andtheynailedasignonitandput——puton——putonit——sacredto——them-e-m-o-r-y——offourteeny-a-r-d-s——ofthree-ply——car——pet——containingallthatwas——m-o-r-t-a-l——of——of——W-i-l-l-i-a-m——W-h-e——“

JimBlainehadbeengrowinggraduallydrowsyanddrowsier——hisheadnodded,once,twice,threetimes——droppedpeacefullyuponhisbreast,andhefelltranquillyasleep。Thetearswererunningdowntheboys"cheeks——theyweresuffocatingwithsuppressedlaughter——andhadbeenfromthestart,thoughIhadnevernoticedit。IperceivedthatIwas“sold。”

IlearnedthenthatJimBlaine"speculiaritywasthatwheneverhereachedacertainstageofintoxication,nohumanpowercouldkeephimfromsettingout,withimpressiveunction,totellaboutawonderfuladventurewhichhehadoncehadwithhisgrandfather"soldram——andthementionoftheraminthefirstsentencewasasfarasanymanhadeverheardhimget,concerningit。Healwaysmaunderedoff,interminably,fromonethingtoanother,tillhiswhiskygotthebestofhimandhefellasleep。

Whatthethingwasthathappenedtohimandhisgrandfather"soldramisadarkmysterytothisday,fornobodyhaseveryetfoundout。

CHAPTERLIV。

OfcoursetherewasalargeChinesepopulationinVirginia——itisthecasewitheverytownandcityonthePacificcoast。Theyareaharmlessracewhenwhitemeneitherletthemaloneortreatthemnoworsethandogs;infacttheyarealmostentirelyharmlessanyhow,fortheyseldomthinkofresentingthevilestinsultsorthecruelestinjuries。Theyarequiet,peaceable,tractable,freefromdrunkenness,andtheyareasindustriousasthedayislong。AdisorderlyChinamanisrare,andalazyonedoesnotexist。SolongasaChinamanhasstrengthtousehishandsheneedsnosupportfromanybody;whitemenoftencomplainofwantofwork,butaChinamanoffersnosuchcomplaint;healwaysmanagestofindsomethingtodo。Heisagreatconveniencetoeverybody——eventotheworstclassofwhitemen,forhebearsthemostoftheirsins,sufferingfinesfortheirpettythefts,imprisonmentfortheirrobberies,anddeathfortheirmurders。AnywhitemancanswearaChinaman"slifeawayinthecourts,butnoChinamancantestifyagainstawhiteman。

Oursisthe“landofthefree“——nobodydeniesthat——nobodychallengesit。

[Maybeitisbecausewewon"tletotherpeopletestify。]AsIwrite,newscomesthatinbroaddaylightinSanFrancisco,someboyshavestonedaninoffensiveChinamantodeath,andthatalthoughalargecrowdwitnessedtheshamefuldeed,nooneinterfered。

Thereareseventythousand(andpossiblyonehundredthousand)ChinamenonthePacificcoast。TherewereaboutathousandinVirginia。Theywerepennedintoa“Chinesequarter“——athingwhichtheydonotparticularlyobjectto,astheyarefondofherdingtogether。Theirbuildingswereofwood;usuallyonlyonestoryhigh,andsetthicklytogetheralongstreetsscarcelywideenoughforawagontopassthrough。

Theirquarterwasalittleremovedfromtherestofthetown。ThechiefemploymentofChinamenintownsistowashclothing。Theyalwayssendabill,likethisbelow,pinnedtotheclothes。Itismereceremony,foritdoesnotenlightenthecustomermuch。Theirpriceforwashingwas$2。50perdozen——rathercheaperthanwhitepeoplecouldaffordtowashforatthattime。AverycommonsignontheChinesehouseswas:“SeeYup,WasherandIroner“;“HongWo,Washer“;“SamSing&AhHop,Washing。”

Thehouseservants,cooks,etc。,inCaliforniaandNevada,werechieflyChinamen。TherewerefewwhiteservantsandnoChinawomensoemployed。

Chinamenmakegoodhouseservants,beingquick,obedient,patient,quicktolearnandtirelesslyindustrious。Theydonotneedtobetaughtathingtwice,asageneralthing。Theyareimitative。IfaChinamanweretoseehismasterbreakupacentretable,inapassion,andkindleafirewithit,thatChinamanwouldbelikelytoresorttothefurnitureforfuelforeverafterward。

AllChinamencanread,writeandcipherwitheasyfacility——pitybutallourpettedvoterscould。InCaliforniatheyrentlittlepatchesofgroundanddoadealofgardening。Theywillraisesurprisingcropsofvegetablesonasandpile。Theywastenothing。WhatisrubbishtoaChristian,aChinamancarefullypreservesandmakesusefulinonewayoranother。Hegathersupalltheoldoysterandsardinecansthatwhitepeoplethrowaway,andprocuresmarketabletinandsolderfromthembymelting。Hegathersupoldbonesandturnsthemintomanure。

InCaliforniahegetsalivingoutofoldminingclaimsthatwhitemenhaveabandonedasexhaustedandworthless——andthentheofficerscomedownonhimonceamonthwithanexorbitantswindletowhichthelegislaturehasgiventhebroad,generalnameof“foreign“miningtax,butitisusuallyinflictedonnoforeignersbutChinamen。Thisswindlehasinsomecasesbeenrepeatedonceortwiceonthesamevictiminthecourseofthesamemonth——butthepublictreasurywasnoadditionallyenrichedbyit,probably。

Chinamenholdtheirdeadingreatreverence——theyworshiptheirdepartedancestors,infact。Hence,inChina,aman"sfrontyard,backyard,oranyotherpartofhispremises,ismadehisfamilyburyingground,inorderthathemayvisitthegravesatanyandalltimes。Thereforethathugeempireisonemightycemetery;itisridgedandwringledfromitscentretoitscircumferencewithgraves——andinasmuchaseveryfootofgroundmustbemadetodoitsutmost,inChina,lesttheswarmingpopulationsufferforfood,theverygravesarecultivatedandyieldaharvest,customholdingthistobenodishonortothedead。Sincethedepartedareheldinsuchworshipfulreverence,aChinamancannotbearthatanyindignitybeofferedtheplaceswheretheysleep。

Mr。BurlingamesaidthathereinlayChina"sbitteroppositiontorailroads;aroadcouldnotbebuiltanywhereintheempirewithoutdisturbingthegravesoftheirancestorsorfriends。

AChinamanhardlybelieveshecouldenjoythehereafterexcepthisbodylayinhisbelovedChina;also,hedesirestoreceive,himself,afterdeath,thatworshipwithwhichhehashonoredhisdeadthatprecededhim。

Therefore,ifhevisitsaforeigncountry,hemakesarrangementstohavehisbonesreturnedtoChinaincasehedies;ifhehirestogotoaforeigncountryonalaborcontract,thereisalwaysastipulationthathisbodyshallbetakenbacktoChinaifhedies;ifthegovernmentsellsagangofCooliestoaforeignerfortheusualfive-yearterm,itisspecifiedinthecontractthattheirbodiesshallberestoredtoChinaincaseofdeath。OnthePacificcoasttheChinamenallbelongtooneoranotherofseveralgreatcompaniesororganizations,andthesecompanieskeeptrackoftheirmembers,registertheirnames,andshiptheirbodieshomewhentheydie。TheSeeYupCompanyisheldtobethelargestofthese。TheNingYeongCompanyisnext,andnumberseighteenthousandmembersonthecoast。ItsheadquartersareatSanFrancisco,whereithasacostlytemple,severalgreatofficers(oneofwhomkeepsregalstateinseclusionandcannotbeapproachedbycommonhumanity),andanumerouspriesthood。InitIwasshownaregisterofitsmembers,withthedeadandthedateoftheirshipmenttoChinadulymarked。EveryshipthatsailsfromSanFranciscocarriesawayaheavyfreightofChinesecorpses——ordid,atleast,untilthelegislature,withaningeniousrefinementofChristiancruelty,forbadetheshipments,asaneatunderhandedwayofdeterringChineseimmigration。Thebillwasoffered,whetheritpassedornot。Itismyimpressionthatitpassed。Therewasanotherbill——itbecamealaw——compellingeveryincomingChinamantobevaccinatedonthewharfandpayadulyappointedquack(nodecentdoctorwoulddefilehimselfwithsuchlegalizedrobbery)tendollarsforit。

AsfewimportersofChinesewouldwanttogotoanexpenselikethat,thelaw-makersthoughtthiswouldbeanotherheavyblowtoChineseimmigration。

WhattheChinesequarterofVirginiawaslike——or,indeed,whattheChinesequarterofanyPacificcoasttownwasandislike——maybegatheredfromthisitemwhichIprintedintheEnterprisewhilereportingforthatpaper:

CHINATOWN——Accompaniedbyafellowreporter,wemadeatripthroughourChinesequartertheothernight。TheChinesehavebuilttheirportionofthecitytosuitthemselves;andastheykeepneithercarriagesnorwagons,theirstreetsarenotwideenough,asageneralthing,toadmitofthepassageofvehicles。Atteno"clockatnighttheChinamanmaybeseeninallhisglory。Ineverylittlecooped-up,dingycavernofahut,faintwiththeodorofburningJosh-lightsandwithnothingtoseethegloombysavethesickly,gutteringtallowcandle,weretwoorthreeyellow,long-tailedvagabonds,coileduponasortofshorttruckle-bed,smokingopium,motionlessandwiththeirlustrelesseyesturnedinwardfromexcessofsatisfaction——orrathertherecentsmokerlooksthus,immediatelyafterhavingpassedthepipetohisneighbor——foropium-smokingisacomfortlessoperation,andrequiresconstantattention。Alampsitsonthebed,thelengthofthelongpipe-stemfromthesmoker"smouth;heputsapelletofopiumontheendofawire,setsitonfire,andplastersitintothepipemuchasaChristianwouldfillaholewithputty;thenheappliesthebowltothelampandproceedstosmoke——andthestewingandfryingofthedrugandthegurglingofthejuicesinthestemwouldwell-nighturnthestomachofastatue。

Johnlikesit,though;itsootheshim,hetakesabouttwodozenwhiffs,andthenrollsovertodream,Heavenonlyknowswhat,forwecouldnotimaginebylookingatthesoggycreature。Possiblyinhisvisionshetravelsfarawayfromthegrossworldandhisregularwashing,andfeastonsucculentratsandbirds"-nestsinParadise。

Mr。AhSingkeepsageneralgroceryandprovisionstoreatNo。13Wangstreet。Helavishedhishospitalityuponourpartyinthefriendliestway。Hehadvariouskindsofcoloredandcolorlesswinesandbrandies,withunpronouncablenames,importedfromChinainlittlecrockeryjugs,andwhichheofferedtousindaintylittleminiaturewash-basinsofporcelain。Heofferedusamessofbirds"-nests;also,small,neatsausages,ofwhichwecouldhaveswallowedseveralyardsifwehadchosentotry,butwesuspectedthateachlinkcontainedthecorpseofamouse,andthereforerefrained。Mr。Singhadinhisstoreathousandarticlesofmerchandise,curioustobehold,impossibletoimaginetheusesof,andbeyondourabilitytodescribe。

Hisducks,however,andhiseggs,wecouldunderstand;theformerweresplitopenandflattenedoutlikecodfish,andcamefromChinainthatshape,andthelatterwereplasteredoverwithsomekindofpastewhichkeptthemfreshandpalatablethroughthelongvoyage。

WefoundMr。HongWo,No。37Chow-chowstreet,makingupalotteryscheme——infactwefoundadozenothersoccupiedinthesamewayinvariouspartsofthequarter,forabouteverythirdChinamanrunsalottery,andthebalanceofthetribe“buck“atit。“Tom,“whospeaksfaultlessEnglish,andusedtobechiefandonlycooktotheTerritorialEnterprise,whentheestablishmentkeptbachelor"shalltwoyearsago,saidthat“SometimeChinamanbuyticketonedollarhap,ketchumtwotreehundred,sometimenoketchumanything;lotterylikeonemanfightumseventy——may-behewhip,may-behegetwhipheself,wellygood。”

However,thepercentagebeingsixty-nineagainsthim,thechancesare,asageneralthing,that“hegetwhipheself。”Wecouldnotseethattheselotteriesdifferedinanyrespectfromourown,savethatthefiguresbeingChinese,noignorantwhitemanmighteverhopetosucceedintelling“t"otherfromwhich;“themannerofdrawingissimilartoours。

Mr。SeeYupkeepsafancystoreonLiveFoxstreet。Hesoldusfansofwhitefeathers,gorgeouslyornamented;perfumerythatsmelledlikeLimburgercheese,Chinesepens,andwatch-charmsmadeofastoneunscratchablewithsteelinstruments,yetpolishedandtintedliketheinnercoatofasea-shell。Astokensofhisesteem,SeeYuppresentedthepartywithgaudyplumesmadeofgoldtinselandtrimmedwithpeacocks"feathers。

Weatechow-chowwithchop-sticksinthecelestialrestaurants;ourcomradechidedthemoon-eyeddamselsinfrontofthehousesfortheirwantoffemininereserve;wereceivedprotectingJosh-lightsfromourhostsand“dickered“forapaganGodortwo。Finally,wewereimpressedwiththegeniusofaChinesebook-keeper;hefigureduphisaccountsonamachinelikeagridironwithbuttonsstrungonitsbars;thedifferentrowsrepresentedunits,tens,hundredsandthousands。Hefingeredthemwithincrediblerapidity——infact,hepushedthemfromplacetoplaceasfastasamusicalprofessor"sfingerstraveloverthekeysofapiano。

Theyareakindlydisposed,well-meaningrace,andarerespectedandwelltreatedbytheupperclasses,alloverthePacificcoast。NoCaliforniangentlemanorladyeverabusesoroppressesaChinaman,underanycircumstances,anexplanationthatseemstobemuchneededintheEast。

Onlythescumofthepopulationdoit——theyandtheirchildren;they,and,naturallyandconsistently,thepolicemenandpoliticians,likewise,forthesearethedust-lickingpimpsandslavesofthescum,thereaswellaselsewhereinAmerica。

CHAPTERLV。

Ibegantogettiredofstayinginoneplacesolong。

TherewasnolongersatisfyingvarietyingoingdowntoCarsontoreporttheproceedingsofthelegislatureonceayear,andhorse-racesandpumpkin-showsonceinthreemonths;(theyhadgottoraisingpumpkinsandpotatoesinWashoeValley,andofcourseoneofthefirstachievementsofthelegislaturewastoinstituteaten-thousand-dollarAgriculturalFairtoshowofffortydollars"worthofthosepumpkinsin——however,theterritoriallegislaturewasusuallyspokenofasthe“asylum“)。IwantedtoseeSanFrancisco。Iwantedtogosomewhere。Iwanted——IdidnotknowwhatIwanted。Ihadthe“springfever“andwantedachange,principally,nodoubt。Besides,aconventionhadframedaStateConstitution;ninemenoutofeverytenwantedanoffice;Ibelievedthatthesegentlemenwould“treat“themoneylessandtheirresponsibleamongthepopulationintoadoptingtheconstitutionandthuswell-nighkillingthecountry(itcouldnotwellcarrysuchaloadasaStategovernment,sinceithadnothingtotaxthatcouldstandatax,forundevelopedminescouldnot,andtherewerenotfiftydevelopedonesintheland,therewasbutlittlerealtytotax,anditdidseemasifnobodywasevergoingtothinkofthesimplesalvationofinflictingamoneypenaltyonmurder)。

IbelievedthataStategovernmentwoulddestroythe“flushtimes,“andI

wantedtogetaway。IbelievedthattheminingstocksIhadonhandwouldsoonbeworth$100,000,andthoughtiftheyreachedthatbeforetheConstitutionwasadopted,Iwouldselloutandmakemyselfsecurefromthecrashthechangeofgovernmentwasgoingtobring。Iconsidered$100,000sufficienttogohomewithdecently,thoughitwasbutasmallamountcomparedtowhatIhadbeenexpectingtoreturnwith。Ifeltratherdown-heartedaboutit,butItriedtocomfortmyselfwiththereflectionthatwithsuchasumIcouldnotfallintowant。AboutthistimeaschoolmateofminewhomIhadnotseensinceboyhood,cametrampinginonfootfromReeseRiver,averyallegoryofPoverty。

Thesonofwealthyparents,herehewas,inastrangeland,hungry,bootless,mantledinanancienthorse-blanket,roofedwithabrimlesshat,andsogenerallyandsoextravagantlydilapidatedthathecouldhave“takentheshineoutoftheProdigalSonhimself,“ashepleasantlyremarked。

Hewantedtoborrowforty-sixdollars——twenty-sixtotakehimtoSanFrancisco,andtwentyforsomethingelse;tobuysomesoapwith,maybe,forheneededit。IfoundIhadbutlittlemorethantheamountwanted,inmypocket;soIsteppedinandborrowedforty-sixdollarsofabanker(ontwentydays"time,withouttheformalityofanote),andgaveithim,ratherthanwalkhalfablocktotheoffice,whereIhadsomespecielaidup。Ifanybodyhadtoldmethatitwouldtakemetwoyearstopaybackthatforty-sixdollarstothebanker(forIdidnotexpectitoftheProdigal,andwasnotdisappointed),Iwouldhavefeltinjured。Andsowouldthebanker。

Iwantedachange。Iwantedvarietyofsomekind。Itcame。Mr。Goodmanwentawayforaweekandleftmethepostofchiefeditor。Itdestroyedme。Thefirstday,Iwrotemy“leader“intheforenoon。Thesecondday,Ihadnosubjectandputitofftilltheafternoon。ThethirddayIputitofftillevening,andthencopiedanelaborateeditorialoutofthe“AmericanCyclopedia,“thatsteadfastfriendoftheeditor,alloverthisland。ThefourthdayI“fooledaround“tillmidnight,andthenfellbackontheCyclopediaagain。ThefifthdayIcudgeledmybraintillmidnight,andthenkeptthepresswaitingwhileIpennedsomebitterpersonalitiesonsixdifferentpeople。ThesixthdayIlaboredinanguishtillfarintothenightandbroughtforth——nothing。Thepaperwenttopresswithoutaneditorial。TheseventhdayIresigned。Ontheeighth,Mr。Goodmanreturnedandfoundsixduelsonhishands——mypersonalitieshadbornefruit。

Nobody,excepthehastriedit,knowswhatitistobeaneditor。Itiseasytoscribblelocalrubbish,withthefactsallbeforeyou;itiseasytoclipselectionsfromotherpapers;itiseasytostringoutacorrespondencefromanylocality;butitisunspeakablehardshiptowriteeditorials。Subjectsarethetrouble——thedrearylackofthem,Imean。

Everyday,itisdrag,drag,drag——think,andworryandsuffer——alltheworldisadullblank,andyettheeditorialcolumnsmustbefilled。

Onlygivetheeditorasubject,andhisworkisdone——itisnotroubletowriteitup;butfancyhowyouwouldfeelifyouhadtopumpyourbrainsdryeverydayintheweek,fifty-twoweeksintheyear。Itmakesonelowspiritedsimplytothinkofit。ThematterthateacheditorofadailypaperinAmericawritesinthecourseofayearwouldfillfromfourtoeightbulkyvolumeslikethisbook!Fancywhatalibraryaneditor"sworkwouldmake,aftertwentyorthirtyyears"service。YetpeopleoftenmarvelthatDickens,Scott,Bulwer,Dumas,etc。,havebeenabletoproducesomanybooks。Iftheseauthorshadwroughtasvoluminouslyasnewspapereditorsdo,theresultwouldbesomethingtomarvelat,indeed。

Howeditorscancontinuethistremendouslabor,thisexhaustingconsumptionofbrainfibre(fortheirworkiscreative,andnotameremechanicallaying-upoffacts,likereporting),dayafterdayandyearafteryear,isincomprehensible。Preacherstaketwomonths"holidayinmidsummer,fortheyfindthattoproducetwosermonsaweekiswearing,inthelongrun。Intruthitmustbeso,andisso;andtherefore,howaneditorcantakefromtentotwentytextsandbuilduponthemfromtentotwentypainstakingeditorialsaweekandkeepitupalltheyearround,isfartherbeyondcomprehensionthanever。EversinceIsurvivedmyweekaseditor,Ihavefoundatleastonepleasureinanynewspaperthatcomestomyhand;itisinadmiringthelongcolumnsofeditorial,andwonderingtomyselfhowinthemischiefhedidit!

Mr。Goodman"sreturnrelievedmeofemployment,unlessIchosetobecomeareporteragain。Icouldnotdothat;IcouldnotserveintheranksafterbeingGeneralofthearmy。SoIthoughtIwoulddepartandgoabroadintotheworldsomewhere。Justatthisjuncture,Dan,myassociateinthereportorialdepartment,toldme,casually,thattwocitizenshadbeentryingtopersuadehimtogowiththemtoNewYorkandaidinsellingarichsilverminewhichtheyhaddiscoveredandsecuredinanewminingdistrictinourneighborhood。Hesaidtheyofferedtopayhisexpensesandgivehimonethirdoftheproceedsofthesale。

Hehadrefusedtogo。ItwastheveryopportunityIwanted。Iabusedhimforkeepingsoquietaboutit,andnotmentioningitsooner。HesaidithadnotoccurredtohimthatIwouldliketogo,andsohehadrecommendedthemtoapplytoMarshall,thereporteroftheotherpaper。

IaskedDanifitwasagood,honestmine,andnoswindle。Hesaidthemenhadshownhimninetonsoftherock,whichtheyhadgotouttotaketoNewYork,andhecouldcheerfullysaythathehadseenbutlittlerockinNevadathatwasricher;andmoreover,hesaidthattheyhadsecuredatractofvaluabletimberandamill-site,nearthemine。MyfirstideawastokillDan。ButIchangedmymind,notwithstandingIwassoangry,forIthoughtmaybethechancewasnotyetlost。Dansaiditwasbynomeanslost;thatthemenwereabsentatthemineagain,andwouldnotbeinVirginiatoleavefortheEastforsometendays;thattheyhadrequestedhimtodothetalkingtoMarshall,andhehadpromisedthathewouldeithersecureMarshallorsomebodyelseforthembythetimetheygotback;hewouldnowsaynothingtoanybodytilltheyreturned,andthenfulfilhispromisebyfurnishingmetothem。

Itwassplendid。Iwenttobedallonfirewithexcitement;fornobodyhadyetgoneEasttosellaNevadasilvermine,andthefieldwaswhiteforthesickle。IfeltthatsuchamineastheonedescribedbyDanwouldbringaprincelysuminNewYork,andsellwithoutdelayordifficulty。Icouldnotsleep,myfancysoriotedthroughitscastlesintheair。Itwasthe“blindlead“comeagain。

NextdayIgotaway,onthecoach,withtheusualeclatattendingdeparturesofoldcitizens,——forifyouhaveonlyhalfadozenfriendsouttheretheywillmakenoiseforahundredratherthanletyouseemtogoawayneglectedandunregretted——andDanpromisedtokeepstrictwatchforthementhathadtheminetosell。

Thetripwassignalizedbutbyonelittleincident,andthatoccurredjustaswewereabouttostart。Averyseedylookingvagabondpassengergotoutofthestageamomenttowaittilltheusualballastofsilverbrickswasthrownin。Hewasstandingonthepavement,whenanawkwardexpressemployee,carryingabrickweighingahundredpounds,stumbledandletitfallonthebummer"sfoot。Heinstantlydroppedonthegroundandbegantohowlinthemostheart-breakingway。Asympathizingcrowdgatheredaroundandweregoingtopullhisbootoff;buthescreamedlouderthaneverandtheydesisted;thenhefelltogasping,andbetweenthegaspsejaculated“Brandy!forHeaven"ssake,brandy!“Theypouredhalfapintdownhim,anditwonderfullyrestoredandcomfortedhim。

Thenhebeggedthepeopletoassisthimtothestage,whichwasdone。

Theexpresspeopleurgedhimtohaveadoctorattheirexpense,buthedeclined,andsaidthatifheonlyhadalittlebrandytotakealongwithhim,tosoothehisparoxymsofpainwhentheycameon,hewouldbegratefulandcontent。Hewasquicklysuppliedwithtwobottles,andwedroveoff。Hewassosmilingandhappyafterthat,thatIcouldnotrefrainfromaskinghimhowhecouldpossiblybesocomfortablewithacrushedfoot。

“Well,“saidhe,“Ihadn"thadadrinkfortwelvehours,andhadn"tacenttomyname。Iwasmostperishing——andso,whenthatdufferdroppedthathundred-pounderonmyfoot,Iseemychance。Gotacorkleg,youknow!“andhepulleduphispantaloonsandprovedit。

Hewasasdrunkasalordalldaylong,andfullofchucklingsoverhistimelyingenuity。

Onedrunkenmannecessarilyremindsoneofanother。IonceheardagentlemantellaboutanincidentwhichhewitnessedinaCalifornianbar-

room。Heentitledit“YeModestManTakethaDrink。”Itwasnothingbutabitofacting,butitseemedtomeaperfectrendering,andworthyofToodleshimself。Themodestman,tolerablyfargonewithbeerandothermatters,entersasaloon(twenty-fivecentsisthepriceforanythingandeverything,andspecietheonlymoneyused)andlaysdownahalfdollar;

callsforwhiskeyanddrinksit;thebar-keepermakeschangeandlaysthequarterinawetplaceonthecounter;themodestmanfumblesatitwithnervelessfingers,butitslipsandthewaterholdsit;hecontemplatesit,andtriesagain;sameresult;observesthatpeopleareinterestedinwhatheisat,blushes;fumblesatthequarteragain——blushes——putshisforefingercarefully,slowlydown,tomakesureofhisaim——pushesthecointowardthebar-keeper,andsayswithasigh:

“Gimmeacigar!“

Naturally,anothergentlemanpresenttoldaboutanotherdrunkenman。Hesaidhereeledtowardhomelateatnight;madeamistakeandenteredthewronggate;thoughthesawadogonthestoop;anditwas——anironone。

Hestoppedandconsidered;wonderedifitwasadangerousdog;venturedtosay“Be(hic)begone!“Noeffect。Thenheapproachedwarily,andadoptedconciliation;purseduphislipsandtriedtowhistle,butfailed;stillapproached,saying,“Poordog!——doggy,doggy,doggy!——poordoggy-dog!“Gotuponthestoop,stillpettingwithfondnames;tillmasteroftheadvantages;thenexclaimed,“Leave,youthief!“——plantedavindictivekickinhisribs,andwenthead-over-heelsoverboard,ofcourse。Apause;asighortwoofpain,andthenaremarkinareflectivevoice:

“Awfulsoliddog。Whatcouldhebeneating?("ic!)Rocks,p"raps。

Suchanimalsisdangerous——"At"swhatIsay——they"redangerous。Ifaman——("ic!)——ifamanwantstofeedadogonrocks,lethimfeedhimonrocks;"at"sallright;butlethimkeephimathome——nothavehimlayin"

roundpromiscuous,where("ic!)wherepeople"sliabletostumbleoverhimwhentheyain"tnoticin"!“

ItwasnotwithoutregretthatItookalastlookatthetinyflag(itwasthirty-fivefeetlongandtenfeetwide)flutteringlikealady"shandkerchieffromthetopmostpeakofMountDavidson,twothousandfeetaboveVirginia"sroofs,andfeltthatdoubtlessIwasbiddingapermanentfarewelltoacitywhichhadaffordedmethemostvigorousenjoymentoflifeIhadeverexperienced。AndthisremindsmeofanincidentwhichthedullestmemoryVirginiacouldboastatthetimeithappenedmustvividlyrecall,attimes,tillitspossessordies。Lateonesummerafternoonwehadarainshower。

Thatwasastonishingenough,initself,tosetthewholetownbuzzing,foritonlyrains(duringaweekortwoweeks)inthewinterinNevada,andeventhennotenoughatatimetomakeitworthwhileforanymerchanttokeepumbrellasforsale。Buttherainwasnotthechiefwonder。Itonlylastedfiveortenminutes;whilethepeoplewerestilltalkingaboutitalltheheavensgatheredtothemselvesadenseblacknessasofmidnight。AllthevasteasternfrontofMountDavidson,over-

lookingthecity,putonsuchafunerealgloomthatonlythenearnessandsolidityofthemountainmadeitsoutlinesevenfaintlydistinguishablefromthedeadblacknessoftheheavenstheyrestedagainst。Thisunaccustomedsightturnedalleyestowardthemountain;andastheylooked,alittletongueofrichgoldenflamewasseenwavingandquiveringintheheartofthemidnight,awayupontheextremesummit!

Inafewminutesthestreetswerepackedwithpeople,gazingwithhardlyanutteredword,attheonebrilliantmoteinthebroodingworldofdarkness。Itflickedlikeacandle-flame,andlookednolarger;butwithsuchabackgrounditwaswonderfullybright,smallasitwas。Itwastheflag!——thoughnoonesuspecteditatfirst,itseemedsolikeasupernaturalvisitorofsomekind——amysteriousmessengerofgoodtidings,somewerefaintobelieve。Itwasthenation"semblemtransfiguredbythedepartingraysofasunthatwasentirelypalledfromview;andonnootherobjectdidthegloryfall,inallthebroadpanoramaofmountainrangesanddeserts。Notevenuponthestaffoftheflag——forthat,aneedleinthedistanceatanytime,wasnowuntouchedbythelightandundistinguishableinthegloom。Forawholehourtheweirdvisitorwinkedandburnedinitsloftysolitude,andstillthethousandsofupliftedeyeswatcheditwithfascinatedinterest。Howthepeoplewerewroughtup!Thesuperstitiongrewapacethatthiswasamysticcouriercomewithgreatnewsfromthewar——thepoetryoftheideaexcusingandcommendingit——andonitspread,fromhearttoheart,fromliptolipandfromstreettostreet,tilltherewasageneralimpulsetohaveoutthemilitaryandwelcomethebrightwaifwithasalvoofartillery!

Andallthattimeonesorelytriedman,thetelegraphoperatorsworntoofficialsecrecy,hadtolockhislipsandchainhistonguewithasilencethatwasliketorendthem;forhe,andheonly,ofallthespeculatingmultitude,knewthegreatthingsthissinkingsunhadseenthatdayintheeast——Vicksburgfallen,andtheUnionarmsvictoriousatGettysburg!

ButforthejournalisticmonopolythatforbadetheslightestrevealmentofeasternnewstilladayafteritspublicationintheCaliforniapapers,theglorifiedflagonMountDavidsonwouldhavebeensalutedandre-saluted,thatmemorableevening,aslongastherewasachargeofpowdertothunderwith;thecitywouldhavebeenilluminated,andeverymanthathadanyrespectforhimselfwouldhavegotdrunk,——aswasthecustomofthecountryonalloccasionsofpublicmoment。EvenatthisdistantdayIcannotthinkofthisneedlesslymarredsupremeopportunitywithoutregret。Whatatimewemighthavehad!

CHAPTERLVI。

Werumbledovertheplainsandvalleys,climbedtheSierrastotheclouds,andlookeddownuponsummer-cladCalifornia。AndIwillremarkhere,inpassing,thatallsceneryinCaliforniarequiresdistancetogiveititshighestcharm。Themountainsareimposingintheirsublimityandtheirmajestyofformandaltitude,fromanypointofview——butonemusthavedistancetosoftentheirruggednessandenrichtheirtintings;

aCalifornianforestisbestatalittledistance,forthereisasadpovertyofvarietyinspecies,thetreesbeingchieflyofonemonotonousfamily——redwood,pine,spruce,fir——andso,atanearviewthereisawearisomesamenessofattitudeintheirrigidarms,stretcheddownwardandoutwardinonecontinuedandreiteratedappealtoallmento“Sh!——

don"tsayaword!——youmightdisturbsomebody!“Closeathand,too,thereisarelieflessandrelentlesssmellofpitchandturpentine;thereisaceaselessmelancholyintheirsighingandcomplainingfoliage;onewalksoverasoundlesscarpetofbeatenyellowbarkanddeadspinesofthefoliagetillhefeelslikeawanderingspiritbereftofafootfall;

hetiresoftheendlesstuftsofneedlesandyearnsforsubstantial,shapelyleaves;helooksformossandgrasstolollupon,andfindsnone,forwherethereisnobarkthereisnakedclayanddirt,enemiestopensivemusingandcleanapparel。OftenagrassyplaininCalifornia,iswhatitshouldbe,butoften,too,itisbestcontemplatedatadistance,becausealthoughitsgrassbladesaretall,theystandupvindictivelystraightandself-sufficient,andareunsociablywideapart,withuncomelyspotsofbarrensandbetween。

OneofthequeerestthingsIknowof,istoheartouristsfrom“theStates“gointoecstasiesoverthelovelinessof“ever-bloomingCalifornia。”Andtheyalwaysdogointothatsortofecstasies。ButperhapstheywouldmodifythemiftheyknewhowoldCalifornians,withthememoryfulluponthemofthedust-coveredandquestionablesummergreensofCalifornian“verdure,“standastonished,andfilledwithworshippingadmiration,inthepresenceofthelavishrichness,thebrilliantgreen,theinfinitefreshness,thespend-thriftvarietyofformandspeciesandfoliagethatmakeanEasternlandscapeavisionofParadiseitself。TheideaofamanfallingintorapturesovergraveandsombreCalifornia,whenthatmanhasseenNewEngland"smeadow-expansesandhermaples,oaksandcathedral-windowedelmsdeckedinsummerattire,ortheopalinesplendorsofautumndescendinguponherforests,comesverynearbeingfunny——wouldbe,infact,butthatitissopathetic。

Nolandwithanunvaryingclimatecanbeverybeautiful。Thetropicsarenot,forallthesentimentthatiswastedonthem。Theyseembeautifulatfirst,butsamenessimpairsthecharmbyandby。ChangeisthehandmaidenNaturerequirestodohermiracleswith。Thelandthathasfourwell-definedseasons,cannotlackbeauty,orpallwithmonotony。

Eachseasonbringsaworldofenjoymentandinterestinthewatchingofitsunfolding,itsgradual,harmoniousdevelopment,itsculminatinggraces——andjustasonebeginstotireofit,itpassesawayandaradicalchangecomes,withnewwitcheriesandnewgloriesinitstrain。

AndIthinkthattooneinsympathywithnature,eachseason,initsturn,seemstheloveliest。

SanFrancisco,atrulyfascinatingcitytolivein,isstatelyandhandsomeatafairdistance,butcloseathandonenotesthatthearchitectureismostlyold-fashioned,manystreetsaremadeupofdecaying,smoke-grimed,woodenhouses,andthebarrensand-hillstowardtheoutskirtsobtrudethemselvestooprominently。Eventhekindlyclimateissometimespleasanterwhenreadaboutthanpersonallyexperienced,foralovely,cloudlessskywearsoutitswelcomebyandby,andthenwhenthelongedforraindoescomeitstays。Eventheplayfulearthquakeisbettercontemplatedatadis——

Howevertherearevaryingopinionsaboutthat。

TheclimateofSanFranciscoismildandsingularlyequable。Thethermometerstandsataboutseventydegreestheyearround。Ithardlychangesatall。YousleepunderoneortwolightblanketsSummerandWinter,andneveruseamosquitobar。NobodyeverwearsSummerclothing。

Youwearblackbroadcloth——ifyouhaveit——inAugustandJanuary,justthesame。Itisnocolder,andnowarmer,intheonemonththantheother。Youdonotuseovercoatsandyoudonotusefans。Itisaspleasantaclimateascouldwellbecontrived,takeitallaround,andisdoubtlessthemostunvaryinginthewholeworld。Thewindblowsthereagooddealinthesummermonths,butthenyoucangoovertoOakland,ifyouchoose——threeorfourmilesaway——itdoesnotblowthere。IthasonlysnowedtwiceinSanFranciscoinnineteenyears,andthenitonlyremainedonthegroundlongenoughtoastonishthechildren,andsetthemtowonderingwhatthefeatherystuffwas。

Duringeightmonthsoftheyear,straightalong,theskiesarebrightandcloudless,andneveradropofrainfalls。Butwhentheotherfourmonthscomealong,youwillneedtogoandstealanumbrella。Becauseyouwillrequireit。Notjustoneday,butonehundredandtwentydaysinhardlyvaryingsuccession。Whenyouwanttogovisiting,orattendchurch,orthetheatre,youneverlookupatthecloudstoseewhetheritislikelytorainornot——youlookatthealmanac。IfitisWinter,itwillrain——andifitisSummer,itwon"train,andyoucannothelpit。

Youneverneedalightning-rod,becauseitneverthundersanditneverlightens。Andafteryouhavelistenedforsixoreightweeks,everynight,tothedismalmonotonyofthosequietrains,youwillwishinyourheartthethunderwouldleapandcrashandroaralongthosedrowsyskiesonce,andmakeeverythingalive——youwillwishtheprisonedlightningswouldcleavethedullfirmamentasunderandlightitwithablindingglareforonelittleinstant。Youwouldgiveanythingtoheartheoldfamiliarthunderagainandseethelightningstrikesomebody。AndalongintheSummer,whenyouhavesufferedaboutfourmonthsoflustrous,pitilesssunshine,youarereadytogodownonyourkneesandpleadforrain——hail——snow——thunderandlightning——anythingtobreakthemonotony——

youwilltakeanearthquake,ifyoucannotdoanybetter。Andthechancesarethatyou"llgetit,too。

SanFranciscoisbuiltonsandhills,buttheyareprolificsandhills。

Theyyieldagenerousvegetation。Alltherareflowerswhichpeoplein“theStates“rearwithsuchpatientcareinparlorflower-potsandgreen-

houses,flourishluxuriantlyintheopenairtherealltheyearround。

Callalilies,allsortsofgeraniums,passionflowers,mossroses——Idonotknowthenamesofatenthpartofthem。IonlyknowthatwhileNewYorkersareburdenedwithbanksanddriftsofsnow,Californiansareburdenedwithbanksanddriftsofflowers,iftheyonlykeeptheirhandsoffandletthemgrow。AndIhaveheardthattheyhavealsothatrarestandmostcuriousofalltheflowers,thebeautifulEspirituSanto,astheSpaniardscallit——orfloweroftheHolySpirit——thoughIthoughtitgrewonlyinCentralAmerica——downontheIsthmus。Initscupisthedaintiestlittlefacsimileofadove,aspureassnow。TheSpaniardshaveasuperstitiousreverenceforit。TheblossomhasbeenconveyedtotheStates,submergedinether;andthebulbhasbeentakenthitheralso,buteveryattempttomakeitbloomafteritarrived,hasfailed。

IhaveelsewherespokenoftheendlessWinterofMono,California,andbutthismomentoftheeternalSpringofSanFrancisco。Nowifwetravelahundredmilesinastraightline,wecometotheeternalSummerofSacramento。OneneverseesSummer-clothingormosquitoesinSanFrancisco——buttheycanbefoundinSacramento。Notalwaysandunvaryingly,butaboutonehundredandforty-threemonthsoutoftwelveyears,perhaps。Flowersbloomthere,always,thereadercaneasilybelieve——peoplesufferandsweat,andswear,morning,noonandnight,andwearouttheirstanchestenergiesfanningthemselves。Itgetshotthere,butifyougodowntoFortYumayouwillfindithotter。FortYumaisprobablythehottestplaceonearth。Thethermometerstaysatonehundredandtwentyintheshadethereallthetime——exceptwhenitvariesandgoeshigher。ItisaU。S。militarypost,anditsoccupantsgetsousedtotheterrificheatthattheysufferwithoutit。Thereisatradition(attributedtoJohnPhenix[Ithasbeenpurloinedbyfiftydifferentscribblerswhoweretoopoortoinventafancybutnotashamedtostealone——M。T。])thatavery,verywickedsoldierdiedthere,once,andofcourse,wentstraighttothehottestcornerofperdition,——

andthenextdayhetelegraphedbackforhisblankets。Thereisnodoubtaboutthetruthofthisstatement——therecanbenodoubtaboutit。I

haveseentheplacewherethatsoldierusedtoboard。InSacramentoitisfierySummeralways,andyoucangatherroses,andeatstrawberriesandice-cream,andwearwhitelinenclothes,andpantandperspire,ateightornineo"clockinthemorning,andthentakethecars,andatnoonputonyourfursandyourskates,andgoskimmingoverfrozenDonnerLake,seventhousandfeetabovethevalley,amongsnowbanksfifteenfeetdeep,andintheshadowofgrandmountainpeaksthatlifttheirfrostycragstenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea。

Thereisatransitionforyou!WherewillyoufindanotherlikeitintheWesternhemisphere?Andsomeofushavesweptaroundsnow-walledcurvesofthePacificRailroadinthatvicinity,sixthousandfeetabovethesea,andlookeddownasthebirdsdo,uponthedeathlessSummeroftheSacramentoValley,withitsfruitfulfields,itsfeatheryfoliage,itssilverstreams,allslumberinginthemellowhazeofitsenchantedatmosphere,andallinfinitelysoftenedandspiritualizedbydistance——adreamy,exquisiteglimpseoffairyland,madeallthemorecharmingandstrikingthatitwascaughtthroughaforbiddengatewayoficeandsnow,andsavagecragsandprecipices。

CHAPTERLVII。

ItwasinthisSacramentoValley,justreferredto,thatadealofthemostlucrativeoftheearlygoldminingwasdone,andyoumaystillsee,inplaces,itsgrassyslopesandlevelstornandgutteredanddisfiguredbytheavariciousspoilersoffifteenandtwentyyearsago。YoumayseesuchdisfigurementsfarandwideoverCalifornia——andinsomesuchplaces,whereonlymeadowsandforestsarevisible——notalivingcreature,notahouse,nostickorstoneorremnantofaruin,andnotasound,notevenawhispertodisturbtheSabbathstillness——youwillfindithardtobelievethattherestoodatonetimeafiercely-flourishinglittlecity,oftwothousandorthreethousandsouls,withitsnewspaper,firecompany,brassband,volunteermilitia,bank,hotels,noisyFourthofJulyprocessionsandspeeches,gamblinghellscrammedwithtobaccosmoke,profanity,andrough-beardedmenofallnationsandcolors,withtablesheapedwithgolddustsufficientfortherevenuesofaGermanprincipality——streetscrowdedandrifewithbusiness——townlotsworthfourhundreddollarsafrontfoot——labor,laughter,music,dancing,swearing,fighting,shooting,stabbing——abloodyinquestandamanforbreakfasteverymorning——everythingthatdelightsandadornsexistence——

alltheappointmentsandappurtenancesofathrivingandprosperousandpromisingyoungcity,——andnownothingisleftofitallbutalifeless,homelesssolitude。Themenaregone,thehouseshavevanished,eventhenameoftheplaceisforgotten。Innootherland,inmoderntimes,havetownssoabsolutelydiedanddisappeared,asintheoldminingregionsofCalifornia。

Itwasadriving,vigorous,restlesspopulationinthosedays。Itwasacuriouspopulation。Itwastheonlypopulationofthekindthattheworldhaseverseengatheredtogether,anditisnotlikelythattheworldwilleverseeitslikeagain。Forobserve,itwasanassemblageoftwohundredthousandyoungmen——notsimpering,dainty,kid-glovedweaklings,butstalwart,muscular,dauntlessyoungbraves,brimfulofpushandenergy,androyallyendowedwitheveryattributethatgoestomakeupapeerlessandmagnificentmanhood——theverypickandchoiceoftheworld"sgloriousones。Nowomen,nochildren,nograyandstoopingveterans,——nonebuterect,bright-eyed,quick-moving,strong-handedyounggiants——thestrangestpopulation,thefinestpopulation,themostgallanthostthatevertroopeddownthestartledsolitudesofanunpeopledland。

Andwherearetheynow?Scatteredtotheendsoftheearth——orprematurelyagedanddecrepit——orshotorstabbedinstreetaffrays——ordeadofdisappointedhopesandbrokenhearts——allgone,ornearlyall——

victimsdevoteduponthealtarofthegoldencalf——thenoblestholocaustthateverwafteditssacrificialincenseheavenward。Itispitifultothinkupon。

Itwasasplendidpopulation——foralltheslow,sleepy,sluggish-brainedslothsstaidathome——youneverfindthatsortofpeopleamongpioneers——

youcannotbuildpioneersoutofthatsortofmaterial。ItwasthatpopulationthatgavetoCaliforniaanameforgettingupastoundingenterprisesandrushingthemthroughwithamagnificentdashanddaringandarecklessnessofcostorconsequences,whichshebearsuntothisday——andwhensheprojectsanewsurprise,thegraveworldsmilesasusual,andsays“Well,thatisCaliforniaallover。”

Buttheywereroughinthosetimes!Theyfairlyreveledingold,whisky,fights,andfandangoes,andwereunspeakablyhappy。Thehonestminerrakedfromahundredtoathousanddollarsoutofhisclaimaday,andwhatwiththegamblingdensandtheotherentertainments,hehadn"tacentthenextmorning,ifhehadanysortofluck。Theycookedtheirownbaconandbeans,sewedontheirownbuttons,washedtheirownshirts——

bluewoollenones;andifamanwantedafightonhishandswithoutanyannoyingdelay,allhehadtodowastoappearinpublicinawhiteshirtorastove-pipehat,andhewouldbeaccommodated。Forthosepeoplehatedaristocrats。Theyhadaparticularandmalignantanimositytowardwhattheycalleda“biledshirt。”

Itwasawild,free,disorderly,grotesquesociety!Men——onlyswarminghostsofstalwartmen——nothingjuvenile,nothingfeminine,visibleanywhere!

Inthosedaysminerswouldflockincrowdstocatchaglimpseofthatrareandblessedspectacle,awoman!Oldinhabitantstellhow,inacertaincamp,thenewswentabroadearlyinthemorningthatawomanwascome!Theyhadseenacalicodresshangingoutofawagondownatthecamping-ground——signofemigrantsfromoverthegreatplains。Everybodywentdownthere,andashoutwentupwhenanactual,bonafidedresswasdiscoveredflutteringinthewind!Themaleemigrantwasvisible。Theminerssaid:

“Fetchherout!“

Hesaid:“Itismywife,gentlemen——sheissick——wehavebeenrobbedofmoney,provisions,everything,bytheIndians——wewanttorest。”

“Fetchherout!We"vegottoseeher!“

“But,gentlemen,thepoorthing,she——“

“FETCHHEROUT!“

He“fetchedherout,“andtheyswungtheirhatsandsentupthreerousingcheersandatiger;andtheycrowdedaroundandgazedather,andtouchedherdress,andlistenedtohervoicewiththelookofmenwholistenedtoamemoryratherthanapresentreality——andthentheycollectedtwenty-

fivehundreddollarsingoldandgaveittotheman,andswungtheirhatsagainandgavethreemorecheers,andwenthomesatisfied。

OnceIdinedinSanFranciscowiththefamilyofapioneer,andtalkedwithhisdaughter,ayoungladywhosefirstexperienceinSanFranciscowasanadventure,thoughsheherselfdidnotrememberit,asshewasonlytwoorthreeyearsoldatthetime。Herfathersaidthat,afterlandingfromtheship,theywerewalkingupthestreet,aservantleadingthepartywiththelittlegirlinherarms。Andpresentlyahugeminer,bearded,belted,spurred,andbristlingwithdeadlyweapons——justdownfromalongcampaigninthemountains,evidently-barredtheway,stoppedtheservant,andstoodgazing,withafaceallalivewithgratificationandastonishment。Thenhesaid,reverently:

“Well,ifitain"tachild!“Andthenhesnatchedalittleleathersackoutofhispocketandsaidtotheservant:

“There"sahundredandfiftydollarsindust,there,andI"llgiveittoyoutoletmekissthechild!“

Thatanecdoteistrue。

Butseehowthingschange。Sittingatthatdinner-table,listeningtothatanecdote,ifIhadoffereddoublethemoneyfortheprivilegeofkissingthesamechild,Iwouldhavebeenrefused。Seventeenaddedyearshavefarmorethandoubledtheprice。

AndwhileuponthissubjectIwillremarkthatonceinStarCity,intheHumboldtMountains,Itookmyplaceinasortoflong,post-officesinglefileofminers,topatientlyawaitmychancetopeepthroughacrackinthecabinandgetasightofthesplendidnewsensation——agenuine,liveWoman!Andattheendofhalfofanhourmyturncame,andIputmyeyetothecrack,andthereshewas,withonearmakimbo,andtossingflap-

jacksinafrying-panwiththeother。

Andshewasonehundredandsixty-five[Beingincalmermood,now,I

voluntarilyknockoffahundredfromthat——M。T。]yearsold,andhadn"tatoothinherhead。

CHAPTERLVIII。

ForafewmonthsIenjoyedwhattomewasanentirelynewphaseofexistence——abutterflyidleness;nothingtodo,nobodytoberesponsibleto,anduntroubledwithfinancialuneasiness。IfellinlovewiththemostcordialandsociablecityintheUnion。Afterthesage-brushandalkalidesertsofWashoe,SanFranciscowasParadisetome。Ilivedatthebesthotel,exhibitedmyclothesinthemostconspicuousplaces,infestedtheopera,andlearnedtoseemenrapturedwithmusicwhichoftenerafflictedmyignorantearthanenchantedit,ifIhadhadthevulgarhonestytoconfessit。However,IsupposeIwasnotgreatlyworsethanthemostofmycountrymeninthat。Ihadlongedtobeabutterfly,andIwasoneatlast。Iattendedprivatepartiesinsumptuouseveningdress,simperedandairedmygraceslikeabornbeau,andpolkadandschottischedwithasteppeculiartomyself——andthekangaroo。Inaword,Ikepttheduestateofamanworthahundredthousanddollars(prospectively,)andlikelytoreachabsoluteaffluencewhenthatsilver-

minesaleshouldbeultimatelyachievedintheEast。Ispentmoneywithafreehand,andmeantimewatchedthestocksaleswithaninterestedeyeandlookedtoseewhatmighthappeninNevada。

Somethingveryimportanthappened。ThepropertyholdersofNevadavotedagainsttheStateConstitution;butthefolkswhohadnothingtolosewereinthemajority,andcarriedthemeasureovertheirheads。Butafterallitdidnotimmediatelylooklikeadisaster,thoughunquestionablyitwasoneIhesitated,calculatedthechances,andthenconcludednottosell。Stockswentonrising;speculationwentmad;

bankers,merchants,lawyers,doctors,mechanics,laborers,eventheverywasherwomenandservantgirls,wereputtinguptheirearningsonsilverstocks,andeverysunthatroseinthemorningwentdownonpaupersenrichedandrichmenbeggared。Whatagamblingcarnivalitwas!GouldandCurrysoaredtosixthousandthreehundreddollarsafoot!Andthen——allofasudden,outwentthebottomandeverythingandeverybodywenttoruinanddestruction!Thewreckwascomplete。

Thebubblescarcelyleftamicroscopicmoisturebehindit。Iwasanearlybeggarandathoroughone。Myhoardedstockswerenotworththepapertheywereprintedon。Ithrewthemallaway。I,thecheerfulidiotthathadbeensquanderingmoneylikewater,andthoughtmyselfbeyondthereachofmisfortune,hadnotnowasmuchasfiftydollarswhenIgatheredtogethermyvariousdebtsandpaidthem。Iremovedfromthehoteltoaveryprivateboardinghouse。Itookareporter"sberthandwenttowork。Iwasnotentirelybrokeninspirit,forIwasbuildingconfidentlyonthesaleofthesilvermineintheeast。ButIcouldnothearfromDan。Mylettersmiscarriedorwerenotanswered。

OnedayIdidnotfeelvigorousandremainedawayfromtheoffice。ThenextdayIwentdowntowardnoonasusual,andfoundanoteonmydeskwhichhadbeentheretwenty-fourhours。Itwassigned“Marshall“——theVirginiareporter——andcontainedarequestthatIshouldcallatthehotelandseehimandafriendortwothatnight,astheywouldsailfortheeastinthemorning。Apostscriptaddedthattheirerrandwasabigminingspeculation!Iwashardlyeversosickinmylife。IabusedmyselfforleavingVirginiaandentrustingtoanothermanamatterI

oughttohaveattendedtomyself;IabusedmyselfforremainingawayfromtheofficeontheonedayofalltheyearthatIshouldhavebeenthere。

AndthusberatingmyselfItrottedamiletothesteamerwharfandarrivedjustintimetobetoolate。Theshipwasinthestreamandunderway。

Icomfortedmyselfwiththethoughtthatmaybethespeculationwouldamounttonothing——poorcomfortatbest——andthenwentbacktomyslavery,resolvedtoputupwithmythirty-fivedollarsaweekandforgetallaboutit。

AmonthafterwardIenjoyedmyfirstearthquake。Itwasonewhichwaslongcalledthe“great“earthquake,andisdoubtlesssodistinguishedtillthisday。Itwasjustafternoon,onabrightOctoberday。IwascomingdownThirdstreet。Theonlyobjectsinmotionanywhereinsightinthatthicklybuiltandpopulousquarter,wereamaninabuggybehindme,andastreetcarwendingslowlyupthecrossstreet。Otherwise,allwassolitudeandaSabbathstillness。AsIturnedthecorner,aroundaframehouse,therewasagreatrattleandjar,anditoccurredtomethatherewasanitem!——nodoubtafightinthathouse。BeforeIcouldturnandseekthedoor,therecameareallyterrificshock;thegroundseemedtorollundermeinwaves,interruptedbyaviolentjogglingupanddown,andtherewasaheavygrindingnoiseasofbrickhousesrubbingtogether。

Ifellupagainsttheframehouseandhurtmyelbow。Iknewwhatitwas,now,andfrommerereportorialinstinct,nothingelse,tookoutmywatchandnotedthetimeofday;atthatmomentathirdandstillseverershockcame,andasIreeledaboutonthepavementtryingtokeepmyfooting,Isawasight!Theentirefrontofatallfour-storybrickbuildinginThirdstreetsprungoutwardlikeadoorandfellsprawlingacrossthestreet,raisingadustlikeagreatvolumeofsmoke!Andherecamethebuggy——overboardwenttheman,andinlesstimethanIcantellitthevehiclewasdistributedinsmallfragmentsalongthreehundredyardsofstreet。

Onecouldhavefanciedthatsomebodyhadfiredachargeofchair-roundsandragsdownthethoroughfare。Thestreetcarhadstopped,thehorseswererearingandplunging,thepassengerswerepouringoutatbothends,andonefatmanhadcrashedhalfwaythroughaglasswindowononesideofthecar,gotwedgedfastandwassquirmingandscreaminglikeanimpaledmadman。Everydoor,ofeveryhouse,asfarastheeyecouldreach,wasvomitingastreamofhumanbeings;andalmostbeforeonecouldexecuteawinkandbeginanother,therewasamassedmultitudeofpeoplestretchinginendlessprocessiondowneverystreetmypositioncommanded。

Neverwassolemnsolitudeturnedintoteeminglifequicker。

Ofthewonderswroughtby“thegreatearthquake,“thesewereallthatcameundermyeye;butthetricksitdid,elsewhere,andfarandwideoverthetown,madetoothsomegossipforninedays。

Thedestructionofpropertywastrifling——theinjurytoitwaswide-

spreadandsomewhatserious。

The“curiosities“oftheearthquakeweresimplyendless。Gentlemenandladieswhoweresick,orweretakingasiesta,orhaddissipatedtillalatehourandweremakinguplostsleep,throngedintothepublicstreetsinallsortsofqueerapparel,andsomewithoutanyatall。Onewomanwhohadbeenwashinganakedchild,randownthestreetholdingitbytheanklesasifitwereadressedturkey。ProminentcitizenswhoweresupposedtokeeptheSabbathstrictly,rushedoutofsaloonsintheirshirt-sleeves,withbilliardcuesintheirhands。Dozensofmenwithnecksswathedinnapkins,rushedfrombarber-shops,latheredtotheeyesorwithonecheekcleanshavedandtheotherstillbearingahairystubble。Horsesbrokefromstables,andafrighteneddogrushedupashortatticladderandoutontoaroof,andwhenhisscarewasoverhadnotthenervetogodownagainthesamewayhehadgoneup。

Aprominenteditorflewdownstairs,intheprincipalhotel,withnothingonbutonebriefundergarment——metachambermaid,andexclaimed:

“Oh,whatshallIdo!WhereshallIgo!“

Sherespondedwithnaiveserenity:

“Ifyouhavenochoice,youmighttryaclothing-store!“

Acertainforeignconsul"sladywastheacknowledgedleaderoffashion,andeverytimesheappearedinanythingneworextraordinary,theladiesinthevicinitymadearaidontheirhusbands"pursesandarrayedthemselvessimilarly。Onemanwhohadsufferedconsiderablyandgrowledaccordingly,wasstandingatthewindowwhentheshockscame,andthenextinstanttheconsul"swife,justoutofthebath,fledbywithnootherapologyforclothingthan——abath-towel!Thesuffererrosesuperiortotheterrorsoftheearthquake,andsaidtohiswife:

“Nowthatissomethinglike!Getoutyourtowelmydear!“

TheplasteringthatfellfromceilingsinSanFranciscothatday,wouldhavecoveredseveralacresofground。Forsomedaysafterward,groupsofeyeingandpointingmenstoodaboutmanyabuilding,lookingatlongzig-

zagcracksthatextendedfromtheeavestotheground。Fourfeetofthetopsofthreechimneysononehousewerebrokensquareoffandturnedaroundinsuchawayastocompletelystopthedraft。

Acrackahundredfeetlonggapedopensixincheswideinthemiddleofonestreetandthenshuttogetheragainwithsuchforce,astoridgeupthemeetingearthlikeaslendergrave。Aladysittinginherrockingandquakingparlor,sawthewallpartattheceiling,openandshuttwice,likeamouth,andthen-droptheendofabrickonthefloorlikeatooth。Shewasawomaneasilydisgustedwithfoolishness,andshearoseandwentoutofthere。OneladywhowascomingdownstairswasastonishedtoseeabronzeHerculesleanforwardonitspedestalasiftostrikeherwithitsclub。Theybothreachedthebottomoftheflightatthesametime,——thewomaninsensiblefromthefright。Herchild,bornsomelittletimeafterward,wasclub-footed。However——onsecondthought,——ifthereaderseesanycoincidenceinthis,hemustdoitathisownrisk。

Thefirstshockbroughtdowntwoorthreehugeorgan-pipesinoneofthechurches。Theminister,withupliftedhands,wasjustclosingtheservices。Heglancedup,hesitated,andsaid:

“However,wewillomitthebenediction!“——andthenextinstanttherewasavacancyintheatmospherewherehehadstood。

Afterthefirstshock,anOaklandministersaid:

“Keepyourseats!Thereisnobetterplacetodiethanthis“——

Andadded,afterthethird:

“Butoutsideisgoodenough!“Hethenskippedoutatthebackdoor。

Suchanotherdestructionofmantelornamentsandtoiletbottlesastheearthquakecreated,SanFrancisconeversawbefore。Therewashardlyagirloramatroninthecitybutsufferedlossesofthiskind。Suspendedpictureswerethrowndown,butoftenerstill,byacuriousfreakoftheearthquake"shumor,theywerewhirledcompletelyaroundwiththeirfacestothewall!Therewasgreatdifferenceofopinion,atfirst,astothecourseordirectiontheearthquaketraveled,butwaterthatsplashedoutofvarioustanksandbucketssettledthat。Thousandsofpeopleweremadesosea-sickbytherollingandpitchingoffloorsandstreetsthattheywereweakandbed-riddenforhours,andsomefewforevendaysafterward——Hardlyanindividualescapednauseaentirely。

Thequeerearthquake——episodesthatformedthestapleofSanFranciscogossipforthenextweekwouldfillamuchlargerbookthanthis,andsoIwilldivergefromthesubject。

Byandby,intheduecourseofthings,IpickedupacopyoftheEnterpriseoneday,andfellunderthiscruelblow:

NEVADAMINESINNEWYORK——G。M。Marshall,ShebaHursandAmosH。

Rose,wholeftSanFranciscolastJulyforNewYorkCity,withoresfromminesinPineWoodDistrict,HumboldtCounty,andontheReeseRiverrange,havedisposedofaminecontainingsixthousandfeetandcalledthePineMountainsConsolidated,forthesumof$3,000,000。Thestampsonthedeed,whichisnowonitswaytoHumboldtCounty,fromNewYork,forrecord,amountedto$3,000,whichissaidtobethelargestamountofstampseverplacedononedocument。Aworkingcapitalof$1,000,000hasbeenpaidintothetreasury,andmachineryhasalreadybeenpurchasedforalargequartzmill,whichwillbeputupassoonaspossible。Thestockinthiscompanyisallfullpaidandentirelyunassessable。TheoresoftheminesinthisdistrictsomewhatresemblethoseoftheShebamineinHumboldt。ShebaHurst,thediscovererofthemines,withhisfriendscorralledallthebestleadsandallthelandandtimbertheydesiredbeforemakingpublictheirwhereabouts。Oresfromthere,assayedinthiscity,showedthemtobeexceedinglyrichinsilverandgold——silverpredominating。ThereisanabundanceofwoodandwaterintheDistrict。WearegladtoknowthatNewYorkcapitalhasbeenenlistedinthedevelopmentoftheminesofthisregion。Havingseentheoresandassays,wearesatisfiedthattheminesoftheDistrictareveryvaluable——anythingbutwild-cat。

Oncemorenativeimbecilityhadcarriedtheday,andIhadlostamillion!Itwasthe“blindlead“overagain。

Letusnotdwellonthismiserablematter。IfIwereinventingthesethings,Icouldbewonderfullyhumorousoverthem;buttheyaretootruetobetalkedofwithheartylevity,evenatthisdistantday。[True,andyetnotexactlyasgivenintheabovefigures,possibly。IsawMarshall,monthsafterward,andalthoughhehadplentyofmoneyhedidnotclaimtohavecapturedanentiremillion。InfactIgatheredthathehadnotthenreceived$50,000。Beyondthatfigurehisfortuneappearedtoconsistofuncertainvastexpectationsratherthanprodigiouscertainties。However,whentheaboveitemappearedinprintIputfullfaithinit,andincontinentlywiltedandwenttoseedunderit。]SufficeitthatIsolostheart,andsoyieldedmyselfuptorepiningsandsighingsandfoolishregrets,thatIneglectedmydutiesandbecameaboutworthless,asareporterforabrisknewspaper。Andatlastoneoftheproprietorstookmeaside,withacharityIstillrememberwithconsiderablerespect,andgavemeanopportunitytoresignmyberthandsosavemyselfthedisgraceofadismissal。

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