第10章

CHAPTERLIX。

ForatimeIwroteliteraryscreedsfortheGoldenEra。C。H。WebbhadestablishedaveryexcellentliteraryweeklycalledtheCalifornian，buthighmeritwasnoguarantyofsuccess；itlanguished，andhesoldouttothreeprinters，andBretHartebecameeditorat$20aweek，andIwasemployedtocontributeanarticleaweekat$12。Butthejournalstilllanguished，andtheprinterssoldouttoCaptainOgden，arichmanandapleasantgentlemanwhochosetoamusehimselfwithsuchanexpensiveluxurywithoutmuchcaringaboutthecostofit。Whenhegrewtiredofthenovelty，here-soldtotheprinters，thepaperpresentlydiedapeacefuldeath，andIwasoutofworkagain。IwouldnotmentionthesethingsbutforthefactthattheysoaptlyillustratetheupsanddownsthatcharacterizelifeonthePacificcoast。Amancouldhardlystumbleintosuchavarietyofqueervicissitudesinanyothercountry。

Fortwomonthsmysoleoccupationwasavoidingacquaintances；forduringthattimeIdidnotearnapenny，orbuyanarticleofanykind，orpaymyboard。Ibecameaveryadeptat“slinking。”Islunkfrombackstreettobackstreet，Islunkawayfromapproachingfacesthatlookedfamiliar，Islunktomymeals，atethemhumblyandwithamuteapologyforeverymouthfulIrobbedmygenerouslandladyof，andatmidnight，afterwanderingsthatwerebutslinkingsawayfromcheerfulnessandlight，I

slunktomybed。Ifeltmeaner，andlowlierandmoredespicablethantheworms。DuringallthistimeIhadbutonepieceofmoney——asilvertencentpiece——andIheldtoitandwouldnotspenditonanyaccount，lesttheconsciousnesscomingstronguponmethatIwasentirelypenniless，mightsuggestsuicide。IhadpawnedeverythingbuttheclothesIhadon；soIclungtomydimedesperately，tillitwassmoothwithhandling。

However，Iamforgetting。Ididhaveoneotheroccupationbesidethatof“slinking。”Itwastheentertainingofacollector(andbeingentertainedbyhim，)whohadinhishandstheVirginiabanker"sbillforforty-sixdollarswhichIhadloanedmyschoolmate，the“Prodigal。”Thismanusedtocallregularlyonceaweekanddunme，andsometimesoftener。

Hediditfromsheerforceofhabit，forheknewhecouldgetnothing。

Hewouldgetouthisbill，calculatetheinterestforme，atfivepercentamonth，andshowmeclearlythattherewasnoattemptatfraudinitandnomistakes；andthenplead，andargueanddunwithallhismightforanysum——anylittletrifle——evenadollar——evenhalfadollar，onaccount。Thenhisdutywasaccomplishedandhisconsciencefree。Heimmediatelydroppedthesubjecttherealways；gotoutacoupleofcigarsanddivided，puthisfeetinthewindow，andthenwewouldhavealong，luxurioustalkabouteverythingandeverybody，andhewouldfurnishmeaworldofcuriousdunningadventuresoutoftheamplestoreinhismemory。

Byandbyhewouldclaphishatonhishead，shakehandsandsaybriskly:

“Well，businessisbusiness——can"tstaywithyoualways！“——andwasoffinasecond。

Theideaofpiningforadun！AndyetIusedtolongforhimtocome，andwouldgetasuneasyasanymotherifthedaywentbywithouthisvisit，whenIwasexpectinghim。Buthenevercollectedthatbill，atlastnoranypartofit。Ilivedtopayittothebankermyself。

Miserylovescompany。Nowandthenatnight，inout-of-theway，dimlylightedplaces，Ifoundmyselfhappeningonanotherchildofmisfortune。

Helookedsoseedyandforlorn，sohomelessandfriendlessandforsaken，thatIyearnedtowardhimasabrother。Iwantedtoclaimkinshipwithhimandgoaboutandenjoyourwretchednesstogether。Thedrawingtowardeachothermusthavebeenmutual；atanyratewegottofallingtogetheroftener，thoughstillseeminglybyaccident；andalthoughwedidnotspeakorevinceanyrecognition，Ithinkthedullanxietypassedoutofbothofuswhenwesaweachother，andthenforseveralhourswewouldidlealongcontentedly，wideapart，andglancingfurtivelyinathomelightsandfiresidegatherings，outofthenightshadows，andverymuchenjoyingourdumbcompanionship。

Finallywespoke，andwereinseparableafterthat。Forourwoeswereidentical，almost。Hehadbeenareportertoo，andlosthisberth，andthiswashisexperience，asnearlyasIcanrecollectit。Afterlosinghisberthhehadgonedown，down，down，withneverahalt:fromaboardinghouseonRussianHilltoaboardinghouseinKearneystreet；

fromthencetoDupont；fromthencetoalowsailorden；andfromthencetolodgingsingoodsboxesandemptyhogsheadsnearthewharves。Then；

forawhile，hehadgainedameagrelivingbysewingupburstedsacksofgrainonthepiers；whenthatfailedhehadfoundfoodhereandthereaschancethrewitinhisway。Hehadceasedtoshowhisfaceindaylight，now，forareporterknowseverybody，richandpoor，highandlow，andcannotwellavoidfamiliarfacesinthebroadlightofday。

ThismendicantBlucher——Icallhimthatforconvenience——wasasplendidcreature。Hewasfullofhope，pluckandphilosophy；hewaswellreadandamanofcultivatedtaste；hehadabrightwitandwasamasterofsatire；hiskindlinessandhisgenerousspiritmadehimroyalinmyeyesandchangedhiscurb-stoneseattoathroneandhisdamagedhattoacrown。

Hehadanadventure，once，whichsticksfastinmymemoryasthemostpleasantlygrotesquethatevertouchedmysympathies。Hehadbeenwithoutapennyfortwomonths。Hehadshirkedaboutobscurestreets，amongfriendlydimlights，tillthethinghadbecomesecondnaturetohim。Butatlasthewasdrivenabroadindaylight。Thecausewassufficient；hehadnottastedfoodforforty-eighthours，andhecouldnotendurethemiseryofhishungerinidlehiding。Hecamealongabackstreet，gloweringattheloavesinbake-shopwindows，andfeelingthathecouldtradehislifeawayforamorseltoeat。Thesightofthebreaddoubledhishunger；butitwasgoodtolookatit，anyhow，andimaginewhatonemightdoifoneonlyhadit。

Presently，inthemiddleofthestreethesawashiningspot——lookedagain——didnot，andcouldnot，believehiseyes——turnedaway，totrythem，thenlookedagain。Itwasaverity——novain，hunger-inspireddelusion——itwasasilverdime！

Hesnatchedit——gloatedoverit；doubtedit——bitit——founditgenuine——

chokedhisheartdown，andsmotheredahalleluiah。Thenhelookedaround——sawthatnobodywaslookingathim——threwthedimedownwhereitwasbefore——walkedawayafewsteps，andapproachedagain，pretendinghedidnotknowitwasthere，sothathecouldre-enjoytheluxuryoffindingit。Hewalkedaroundit，viewingitfromdifferentpoints；thensaunteredaboutwithhishandsinhispockets，lookingupatthesignsandnowandthenglancingatitandfeelingtheoldthrillagain。

Finallyhetookitup，andwentaway，fondlingitinhispocket。Heidledthroughunfrequentedstreets，stoppingindoorwaysandcornerstotakeitoutandlookatit。Byandbyhewenthometohislodgings——anemptyqueens-warehogshead，——andemployedhimselftillnighttryingtomakeuphismindwhattobuywithit。Butitwashardtodo。Togetthemostforitwastheidea。HeknewthatattheMiner"sRestauranthecouldgetaplateofbeansandapieceofbreadfortencents；orafish-

ballandsomefewtrifles，buttheygave“nobreadwithonefish-ball“

there。AtFrenchPete"shecouldgetavealcutlet，plain，andsomeradishesandbread，fortencents；oracupofcoffee——apintatleast——

andasliceofbread；buttheslicewasnotthickenoughbytheeighthofaninch，andsometimestheywerestillmorecriminalthanthatinthecuttingofit。Atseveno"clockhishungerwaswolfish；andstillhismindwasnotmadeup。HeturnedoutandwentupMerchantstreet，stillciphering；andchewingabitofstick，asisthewayofstarvingmen。

HepassedbeforethelightsofMartin"srestaurant，themostaristocraticinthecity，andstopped。Itwasaplacewherehehadoftendined，inbetterdays，andMartinknewhimwell。Standingaside，justoutoftherangeofthelight，heworshipedthequailsandsteaksintheshowwindow，andimaginedthatmaybethefairytimeswerenotgoneyetandsomeprinceindisguisewouldcomealongpresentlyandtellhimtogointhereandtakewhateverhewanted。Hechewedhisstickwithahungryinterestashewarmedtohissubject。Justatthisjuncturehewasconsciousofsomeoneathisside，sureenough；andthenafingertouchedhisarm。Helookedup，overhisshoulder，andsawanapparition——averyallegoryofHunger！Itwasamansixfeethigh，gaunt，unshaven，hungwithrags；withahaggardfaceandsunkencheeks，andeyesthatpleadedpiteously。Thisphantomsaid:

“Comewithme——please。”

HelockedhisarminBlucher"sandwalkedupthestreettowherethepassengerswerefewandthelightnotstrong，andthenfacingabout，putouthishandsinabeseechingway，andsaid:

“Friend——stranger——lookatme！Lifeiseasytoyou——yougoabout，placidandcontent，asIdidonce，inmyday——youhavebeeninthere，andeatenyoursumptuoussupper，andpickedyourteeth，andhummedyourtune，andthoughtyourpleasantthoughts，andsaidtoyourselfitisagoodworld——

butyou"veneversuffered！Youdon"tknowwhattroubleis——youdon"tknowwhatmiseryis——norhunger！Lookatme！Strangerhavepityonapoorfriendless，homelessdog！AsGodismyjudge，Ihavenottastedfoodforeightandfortyhours！——lookinmyeyesandseeifIlie！Givemetheleasttrifleintheworldtokeepmefromstarving——anything——

twenty-fivecents！Doit，stranger——doit，please。Itwillbenothingtoyou，butlifetome。Doit，andIwillgodownonmykneesandlickthedustbeforeyou！Iwillkissyourfootprints——Iwillworshiptheverygroundyouwalkon！Onlytwenty-fivecents！Iamfamishing——

perishing——starvingbyinches！ForGod"ssakedon"tdesertme！“

Blucherwasbewildered——andtouched，too——stirredtothedepths。Hereflected。Thoughtagain。Thenanideastruckhim，andhesaid:

“Comewithme。”

Hetooktheoutcast"sarm，walkedhimdowntoMartin"srestaurant，seatedhimatamarbletable，placedthebilloffarebeforehim，andsaid:

“Orderwhatyouwant，friend。Chargeittome，Mr。Martin。”

“Allright，Mr。Blucher，“saidMartin。

ThenBluchersteppedbackandleanedagainstthecounterandwatchedthemanstowawaycargoaftercargoofbuckwheatcakesatseventy-fivecentsaplate；cupaftercupofcoffee，andporterhousesteaksworthtwodollarsapiece；andwhensixdollarsandahalf"sworthofdestructionhadbeenaccomplished，andthestranger"shungerappeased，BlucherwentdowntoFrenchPete"s，boughtavealcutletplain，asliceofbread，andthreeradishes，withhisdime，andsettoandfeastedlikeaking！

Taketheepisodeallaround，itwasasoddasanythatcanbeculledfromthemyriadcuriositiesofCalifornianlife，perhaps。

CHAPTERLX。

Byandby，anoldfriendofmine，aminer，camedownfromoneofthedecayedminingcampsofTuolumne，California，andIwentbackwithhim。

Welivedinasmallcabinonaverdanthillside，andtherewerenotfiveothercabinsinviewoverthewideexpanseofhillandforest。Yetaflourishingcityoftwoorthreethousandpopulationhadoccupiedthisgrassydeadsolitudeduringtheflushtimesoftwelveorfifteenyearsbefore，andwhereourcabinstoodhadoncebeentheheartoftheteeminghive，thecentreofthecity。Whentheminesgaveoutthetownfellintodecay，andinafewyearswhollydisappeared——streets，dwellings，shops，everything——andleftnosign。Thegrassyslopeswereasgreenandsmoothanddesolateoflifeasiftheyhadneverbeendisturbed。Themerehandfulofminersstillremaining，hadseenthetownspringupspread，growandflourishinitspride；andtheyhadseenitsickenanddie，andpassawaylikeadream。Withittheirhopeshaddied，andtheirzestoflife。Theyhadlongagoresignedthemselvestotheirexile，andceasedtocorrespondwiththeirdistantfriendsorturnlongingeyestowardtheirearlyhomes。Theyhadacceptedbanishment，forgottentheworldandbeenforgottenoftheworld。Theywerefarfromtelegraphsandrailroads，andtheystood，asitwere，inalivinggrave，deadtotheeventsthatstirredtheglobe"sgreatpopulations，deadtothecommoninterestsofmen，isolatedandoutcastfrombrotherhoodwiththeirkind。

Itwasthemostsingular，andalmostthemosttouchingandmelancholyexilethatfancycanimagine——Oneofmyassociatesinthislocality，fortwoorthreemonths，wasamanwhohadhadauniversityeducation；butnowforeighteenyearshehaddecayedtherebyinches，abearded，rough-

clad，clay-stainedminer，andattimes，amonghissighingsandsoliloquizings，heunconsciouslyinterjectedvaguelyrememberedLatinandGreeksentences——deadandmustytongues，meetvehiclesforthethoughtsofonewhosedreamswereallofthepast，whoselifewasafailure；atiredman，burdenedwiththepresent，andindifferenttothefuture；amanwithoutties，hopes，interests，waitingforrestandtheend。

InthatonelittlecornerofCaliforniaisfoundaspeciesofminingwhichisseldomornevermentionedinprint。Itiscalled“pocketmining“andIamnotawarethatanyofitisdoneoutsideofthatlittlecorner。Thegoldisnotevenlydistributedthroughthesurfacedirt，asinordinaryplacermines，butiscollectedinlittlespots，andtheyareverywideapartandexceedinglyhardtofind，butwhenyoudofindoneyoureaparichandsuddenharvest。Therearenotnowmorethantwentypocketminersinthatentirelittleregion。IthinkIknoweveryoneofthempersonally。Ihaveknownoneofthemtohuntpatientlyaboutthehill-sideseverydayforeightmonthswithoutfindinggoldenoughtomakeasnuff-box——hisgrocerybillrunninguprelentlesslyallthetime——andthenfindapocketandtakeoutofittwothousanddollarsintwodipsofhisshovel。Ihaveknownhimtotakeoutthreethousanddollarsintwohours，andgoandpayupeverycentofhisindebtedness，thenenteronadazzlingspreethatfinishedthelastofhistreasurebeforethenightwasgone。Andthenextdayheboughthisgroceriesoncreditasusual，andshoulderedhispanandshovelandwentofftothehillshuntingpocketsagainhappyandcontent。Thisisthemostfascinatingofallthedifferentkindsofmining，andfurnishesaveryhandsomepercentageofvictimstothelunaticasylum。

Pockethuntingisaningeniousprocess。Youtakeaspadefulofearthfromthehill-sideandputitinalargetinpananddissolveandwashitgraduallyawaytillnothingisleftbutateaspoonfuloffinesediment。

Whatevergoldwasinthatearthhasremained，because，beingtheheaviest，ithassoughtthebottom。Amongthesedimentyouwillfindhalfadozenyellowparticlesnolargerthanpin-heads。Youaredelighted。Youmoveofftoonesideandwashanotherpan。Ifyoufindgoldagain，youmovetoonesidefurther，andwashathirdpan。Ifyoufindnogoldthistime，youaredelightedagain，becauseyouknowyouareontherightscent。

Youlayanimaginaryplan，shapedlikeafan，withitshandleupthehill——forjustwheretheendofthehandleis，youarguethattherichdepositlieshidden，whosevagrantgrainsofgoldhaveescapedandbeenwasheddownthehill，spreadingfartherandfartherapartastheywandered。Andsoyouproceedupthehill，washingtheearthandnarrowingyourlineseverytimetheabsenceofgoldinthepanshowsthatyouareoutsidethespreadofthefan；andatlast，twentyyardsupthehillyourlineshaveconvergedtoapoint——asinglefootfromthatpointyoucannotfindanygold。Yourbreathcomesshortandquick，youarefeverishwithexcitement；thedinner-bellmayringitsclapperoff，youpaynoattention；friendsmaydie，weddingstranspire，housesburndown，theyarenothingtoyou；yousweatanddiganddelvewithafranticinterest——andallatonceyoustrikeit！Upcomesaspadefulofearthandquartzthatisalllovelywithsoiledlumpsandleavesandspraysofgold。Sometimesthatonespadefulisall——$500。Sometimesthenestcontains$10，000，andittakesyouthreeorfourdaystogetitallout。

Thepocket-minerstellofonenestthatyielded$60，000andtwomenexhausteditintwoweeks，andthensoldthegroundfor$10，000toapartywhonevergot$300outofitafterward。

Thehogsaregoodpockethunters。Allthesummertheyrootaroundthebushes，andturnupathousandlittlepilesofdirt，andthentheminerslongfortherains；fortherainsbeatupontheselittlepilesandwashthemdownandexposethegold，possiblyrightoverapocket。Twopocketswerefoundinthiswaybythesamemaninoneday。Onehad$5，000initandtheother$8，000。Thatmancouldappreciateit，forhehadn"thadacentforaboutayear。

InTuolumnelivedtwominerswhousedtogototheneighboringvillageintheafternoonandreturneverynightwithhouseholdsupplies。Partofthedistancetheytraversedatrail，andnearlyalwayssatdowntorestonagreatboulderthatlaybesidethepath。Inthecourseofthirteenyearstheyhadwornthatbouldertolerablysmooth，sittingonit。ByandbytwovagrantMexicanscamealongandoccupiedtheseat。Theybegantoamusethemselvesbychippingoffflakesfromtheboulderwithasledge-

hammer。Theyexaminedoneoftheseflakesandfounditrichwithgold。

Thatboulderpaidthem$800afterward。Buttheaggravatingcircumstancewasthatthese“Greasers“knewthattheremustbemoregoldwherethatbouldercamefrom，andsotheywentpanningupthehillandfoundwhatwasprobablytherichestpocketthatregionhasyetproduced。Ittookthreemonthstoexhaustit，andityielded$120，000。ThetwoAmericanminerswhousedtositontheboulderarepooryet，andtheytaketurnaboutingettingupearlyinthemorningtocursethoseMexicans——andwhenitcomesdowntopureornamentalcursing，thenativeAmericanisgiftedabovethesonsofmen。

Ihavedweltatsomelengthuponthismatterofpocketminingbecauseitisasubjectthatisseldomreferredtoinprint，andthereforeIjudgedthatitwouldhaveforthereaderthatinterestwhichnaturallyattachestonovelty。

CHAPTERLXI。

Oneofmycomradesthere——anotherofthosevictimsofeighteenyearsofunrequitedtoilandblightedhopes——wasoneofthegentlestspiritsthateverboreitspatientcrossinawearyexile:graveandsimpleDickBaker，pocket-minerofDead-HouseGulch——Hewasforty-six，grayasarat，earnest，thoughtful，slenderlyeducated，slouchilydressedandclay-

soiled，buthisheartwasfinermetalthananygoldhisshoveleverbroughttolight——thanany，indeed，thateverwasminedorminted。

Wheneverhewasoutofluckandalittledown-hearted，hewouldfalltomourningoverthelossofawonderfulcatheusedtoown(forwherewomenandchildrenarenot，menofkindlyimpulsestakeupwithpets，fortheymustlovesomething)。Andhealwaysspokeofthestrangesagacityofthatcatwiththeairofamanwhobelievedinhissecretheartthattherewassomethinghumanaboutit——maybeevensupernatural。

Iheardhimtalkingaboutthisanimalonce。Hesaid:

“Gentlemen，Iusedtohaveacathere，bythenameofTomQuartz，whichyou"datookaninterestinIreckon——mostanybodywould。Ihadhimhereeightyear——andhewastheremarkablestcatIeversee。HewasalargegrayoneoftheTomspecie，an"hehadmorehard，natchralsensethananymaninthiscamp——"n"apowerofdignity——hewouldn"tlettheGov"nerofCalifornybefamiliarwithhim。Heneverketchedaratinhislife——"pearedtobeaboveit。Henevercaredfornothingbutmining。

Heknowedmoreaboutmining，thatcatdid，thananymanIever，eversee。

Youcouldn"ttellhimnoth"n"boutplacerdiggin"s——"n"asforpocketmining，whyhewasjustbornforit。

Hewoulddigoutaftermean"Jimwhenwewentoverthehillsprospect"n"，andhewouldtrotalongbehindusforasmuchasfivemile，ifwewentsofur。An"hehadthebestjudgmentaboutminingground——whyyouneverseeanythinglikeit。Whenwewenttowork，he"dscatteraglancearound，"n"ifhedidn"tthinkmuchoftheindications，hewouldgivealookasmuchastosay，"Well，I"llhavetogetyoutoexcuseme，"

"n"withoutanotherwordhe"dhystehisnoseintotheair"n"shoveforhome。Butifthegroundsuitedhim，hewouldlaylow"n"keepdarktillthefirstpanwaswashed，"n"thenhewouldsidleup"n"takealook，an"

iftherewasaboutsixorsevengrainsofgoldhewassatisfied——hedidn"twantnobetterprospect"n"that——"n"thenhewouldlaydownonourcoatsandsnorelikeasteamboattillwe"dstruckthepocket，an"

thengetup"n"superintend。Hewasnearlylightnin"onsuperintending。

“Well，byean"bye，upcomesthisyerquartzexcitement。Everybodywasintoit——everybodywaspick"n""n"blast"n"insteadofshovelin"dirtonthehillside——everybodywasput"n"downashaftinsteadofscrapin"thesurface。Noth"n"woulddoJim，butwemusttackletheledges，too，"n"

sowedid。Wecommencedput"n"downashaft，"n"TomQuartzhebegintowonderwhatintheDickensitwasallabout。Hehadn"teverseenanymininglikethatbefore，"n"hewasallupset，asyoumaysay——hecouldn"tcometoarightunderstandingofitnoway——itwastoomanyforhim。Hewasdownonit，too，youbetyou——hewasdownonitpowerful——

"n"alwaysappearedtoconsideritthecussedestfoolishnessout。Butthatcat，youknow，wasalwaysaginnewfangledarrangements——somehowhenevercouldabide"em。Youknowhowitiswitholdhabits。Butbyan"byTomQuartzbegintogitsortofreconciledalittle，thoughhenevercouldaltogetherunderstandthateternalsinkin"ofashaftan"neverpannin"outanything。Atlasthegottocomin"downintheshaft，hisself，totrytocipheritout。An"whenhe"dgittheblues，"n"feelkindo"scruffy，"n"aggravated"n"disgusted——knowin"ashedid，thatthebillswasrunnin"upallthetimean"wewarn"tmakin"acent——hewouldcurluponagunnysackinthecorneran"gotosleep。Well，onedaywhentheshaftwasdownabouteightfoot，therockgotsohardthatwehadtoputinablast——thefirstblast"n"we"deverdonesinceTomQuartzwasborn。An"thenwelitthefuse"n"clumbout"n"gotoff"boutfiftyyards——"n"forgot"n"leftTomQuartzsoundasleeponthegunnysack。

In"boutaminuteweseenapuffofsmokebustupoutofthehole，"n"

theneverythingletgowithanawfulcrash，"n"aboutfourmilliontonofrocks"n"dirt"n"smoke"n；splintersshotup"boutamilean"ahalfintotheair，an"byGeorge，rightinthedeadcentreofitwasoldTomQuartzagoin"endoverend，an"asnortin"an"asneez"n"，an"aclawin"

an"areachin"forthingslikeallpossessed。Butitwarn"tnouse，youknow，itwarn"tnouse。An"thatwasthelastweseeofhimforabouttwominutes"n"ahalf，an"thenallofasuddenitbegintorainrocksandrubbage，an"directlyhecomedownker-whopabouttenfootofff"mwherewestoodWell，Ireckonhewasp"rapstheorneriestlookin"beastyoueversee。Oneearwassotbackonhisneck，"n"histailwasstoveup，"n"hiseye-winkerswasswingedoff，"n"hewasallblackedupwithpowderan"smoke，an"allsloppywithmud"n"slushf"moneendtotheother。

Wellsir，itwarn"tnousetotrytoapologize——wecouldn"tsayaword。

Hetookasortofadisgustedlookathisself，"n"thenhelookedatus——

an"itwasjustexactlythesameasifhehadsaid——"Gents，maybeyouthinkit"ssmarttotakeadvantageofacatthat"ain"thadnoexperienceofquartzminin"，butIthinkdifferent"——an"thenheturnedonhisheel"n"marchedoffhomewithouteversayinganotherword。

“Thatwasjesthisstyle。An"maybeyouwon"tbelieveit，butafterthatyouneverseeacatsoprejudicedaginquartzminingaswhathewas。

An"byan"byewhenhedidgettogoin"downintheshaftagin，you"d"abeenastonishedathissagacity。Theminutewe"dtetchoffablast"n"

thefuse"dbegintosizzle，he"dgivealookasmuchastosay:"Well，I"llhavetogityoutoexcuseme，"an"itwassurpris"n"thewayhe"dshinoutofthathole"n"gof"ratree。Sagacity?Itain"tnonameforit。"Twasinspiration！“

Isaid，“Well，Mr。Baker，hisprejudiceagainstquartz-miningwasremarkable，consideringhowhecamebyit。Couldn"tyouevercurehimofit?“

“Curehim！No！WhenTomQuartzwassotonce，hewasalwayssot——andyoumightablowedhimupasmuchasthreemilliontimes"n"you"dneverabrokenhimofhiscussedprejudiceaginquartzmining。”

TheaffectionandthepridethatlitupBaker"sfacewhenhedeliveredthistributetothefirmnessofhishumblefriendofotherdays，willalwaysbeavividmemorywithme。

Attheendoftwomonthswehadnever“struck“apocket。Wehadpannedupanddownthehillsidestilltheylookedplowedlikeafield；wecouldhaveputinacropofgrain，then，buttherewouldhavebeennowaytogetittomarket。Wegotmanygood“prospects，“butwhenthegoldgaveoutinthepanandwedugdown，hopingandlonging，wefoundonlyemptiness——thepocketthatshouldhavebeentherewasasbarrenasourown——Atlastweshoulderedourpansandshovelsandstruckoutoverthehillstotrynewlocalities。WeprospectedaroundAngel"sCamp，inCalaverascounty，duringthreeweeks，buthadnosuccess。Thenwewanderedonfootamongthemountains，sleepingunderthetreesatnight，fortheweatherwasmild，butstillweremainedascentlessasthelastroseofsummer。Thatisapoorjoke，butitisinpatheticharmonywiththecircumstances，sinceweweresopoorourselves。Inaccordancewiththecustomofthecountry，ourdoorhadalwaysstoodopenandourboardwelcometotrampingminers——theydriftedalongnearlyeveryday，dumpedtheirpaustshovelsbythethresholdandtook“potluck“withus——andnowonourowntrampweneverfoundcoldhospitality。

Ourwanderingswerewideandinmanydirections；andnowIcouldgivethereaderavividdescriptionoftheBigTreesandthemarvelsoftheYoSemite——butwhathasthisreaderdonetomethatIshouldpersecutehim?

Iwilldeliverhimintothehandsoflessconscientioustouristsandtakehisblessing。Letmebecharitable，thoughIfailinallvirtueselse。

Note:Someofthephrasesintheaboveareminingtechnicalities，purely，andmaybealittleobscuretothegeneralreader。In“placerdiggings“

thegoldisscatteredallthroughthesurfacedirt；in“pocket“diggingsitisconcentratedinonelittlespot；in“quartz“thegoldisinasolid，continuousveinofrock，enclosedbetweendistinctwallsofsomeotherkindofstone——andthisisthemostlaboriousandexpensiveofallthedifferentkindsofmining。“Prospecting“ishuntingfora“placer“；

“indications“aresignsofitspresence；“panningout“referstothewashingprocessbywhichthegrainsofgoldareseparatedfromthedirt；

a“prospect“iswhatonefindsinthefirstpanfulofdirt——anditsvaluedetermineswhetheritisagoodorabadprospect，andwhetheritisworthwhiletotarrythereorseekfurther。

CHAPTERLXII。

Afterathreemonths"absence，IfoundmyselfinSanFranciscoagain，withoutacent。Whenmycreditwasaboutexhausted，(forIhadbecometoomeanandlazy，now，toworkonamorningpaper，andtherewerenovacanciesontheeveningjournals，)IwascreatedSanFranciscocorrespondentoftheEnterprise，andattheendoffivemonthsIwasoutofdebt，butmyinterestinmyworkwasgone；formycorrespondencebeingadailyone，withoutrestorrespite，Igotunspeakablytiredofit。

Iwantedanotherchange。Thevagabondinstinctwasstronguponme。

FortunefavoredandIgotanewberthandadelightfulone。ItwastogodowntotheSandwichIslandsandwritesomelettersfortheSacramentoUnion，anexcellentjournalandliberalwithemployees。

WesailedinthepropellerAjax，inthemiddleofwinter。Thealmanaccalleditwinter，distinctlyenough，buttheweatherwasacompromisebetweenspringandsummer。Sixdaysoutofport，itbecamesummeraltogether。Wehadsomethirtypassengers；amongthemacheerfulsoulbythenameofWilliams，andthreesea-wornoldwhaleshipcaptainsgoingdowntojointheirvessels。Theselatterplayedeuchreinthesmokingroomdayandnight，drankastonishingquantitiesofrawwhiskywithoutbeingintheleastaffectedbyit，andwerethehappiestpeopleIthinkIeversaw。Andthentherewas“theoldAdmiral——“aretiredwhaleman。

Hewasaroaring，terrificcombinationofwindandlightningandthunder，andearnest，whole-souledprofanity。Butneverthelesshewastender-

heartedasagirl。Hewasaraving，deafening，devastatingtyphoon，layingwastethecoweringseasbutwithanunvexedrefugeinthecentrewhereallcomersweresafeandatrest。Nobodycouldknowthe“Admiral“

withoutlikinghim；andinasuddenanddireemergencyIthinknofriendofhiswouldknowwhichtochoose——tobecursedbyhimorprayedforbyalessefficientperson。

HisTitleof“Admiral“wasmorestrictly“official“thananyeverwornbyanavalofficerbeforeorsince，perhaps——foritwasthevoluntaryofferingofawholenation，andcamedirectfromthepeoplethemselveswithoutanyintermediateredtape——thepeopleoftheSandwichIslands。

Itwasatitlethatcametohimfreightedwithaffection，andhonor，andappreciationofhisunpretendingmerit。AndintestimonyofthegenuinenessofthetitleitwaspubliclyordainedthatanexclusiveflagshouldbedevisedforhimandusedsolelytowelcomehiscomingandwavehimGod-speedinhisgoing。Fromthattimeforth，wheneverhisshipwassignaledintheoffing，orhecattedhisanchorandstoodouttosea，thatensignstreamedfromtheroyalhalliardsontheparliamenthouseandthenationliftedtheirhatstoitwithspontaneousaccord。

Yethehadneverfiredagunorfoughtabattleinhislife。WhenIknewhimonboardtheAjax，hewasseventy-twoyearsoldandhadplowedthesaltwatersixty-oneofthem。ForsixteenyearshehadgoneinandoutoftheharborofHonoluluincommandofawhaleship，andforsixteenmorehadbeencaptainofaSanFranciscoandSandwichIslandpassengerpacketandhadneverhadanaccidentorlostavessel。Thesimplenativesknewhimforafriendwhoneverfailedthem，andregardedhimaschildrenregardafather。ItwasadangerousthingtooppressthemwhentheroaringAdmiralwasaround。

TwoyearsbeforeIknewtheAdmiral，hehadretiredfromtheseaonacompetence，andhadswornacolossalnine-jointedoaththathewould“nevergowithinsmellingdistanceofthesaltwateragainaslongashelived。”Andhehadconscientiouslykeptit。Thatistosay，heconsideredhehadkeptit，anditwouldhavebeenmorethandangeroustosuggesttohim，eveninthegentlestway，thatmakingelevenlongseavoyages，asapassenger，duringthetwoyearsthathadtranspiredsincehe“retired，“wasonlykeepingthegeneralspiritofitandnotthestrictletter。

TheAdmiralknewonlyonenarrowlineofconducttopursueinanyandallcaseswheretherewasafight，andthatwastoshoulderhiswaystraightinwithoutaninquiryastotherightsorthemeritsofit，andtakethepartoftheweakerside——Andthiswasthereasonwhyhewasalwayssuretobepresentatthetrialofanyuniversallyexecratedcriminaltooppressandintimidatethejurywithavindictivepantomimeofwhathewoulddotothemifheevercaughtthemoutofthebox。Andthiswaswhyharriedcatsandoutlaweddogsthatknewhimconfidentlytooksanctuaryunderhischairintimeoftrouble。InthebeginninghewasthemostfranticandbloodthirstyUnionmanthatdrewbreathintheshadowoftheFlag；buttheinstanttheSouthernersbegantogodownbeforethesweepoftheNorthernarmies，heranuptheConfederatecolorsandfromthattimetilltheendwasarampantandinexorablesecessionist。

HehatedintemperancewithamoreuncompromisinganimositythananyindividualIhaveevermet，ofeithersex；andhewasnevertiredofstormingagainstitandbeseechingfriendsandstrangersaliketobewaryanddrinkwithmoderation。Andyetifanycreaturehadbeenguilelessenoughtointimatethathisabsorbingninegallonsof“straight“whiskeyduringourvoyagewasanyfractionshortofrigidorinflexibleabstemiousness，inthatself-samemomenttheoldmanwouldhavespunhimtotheuttermostpartsoftheearthinthewhirlwindofhiswrath。Mind，Iamnotsayinghiswhiskyeveraffectedhisheadorhislegs，foritdidnot，ineventheslightestdegree。Hewasacapaciouscontainer，buthedidnotholdenoughforthat。Hetookaleveltumblerfulofwhiskyeverymorningbeforeheputhisclotheson——“tosweetenhisbilgewater，“hesaid——Hetookanotherafterhegotthemostofhisclotheson，“tosettlehismindandgivehimhisbearings。”Hethenshaved，andputonacleanshirt；afterwhichherecitedtheLord"sPrayerinafervent，thunderingbassthatshooktheshiptoherkelsonandsuspendedallconversationinthemaincabin。Then，atthisstage，beinginvariably“bythehead，“or“bythestern，“or“listedtoportorstarboard，“hetookonemoreto“puthimonanevenkeelsothathewouldmindhishellumandnotmissstaysandgoabout，everytimehecameupinthewind。”——Andnow，hisstate-roomdoorswungopenandthesunofhisbenignantfacebeamedredlyoutuponmenandwomenandchildren，andheroaredhis“Shipmetsa"hoy！“inawaythatwascalculatedtowakethedeadandprecipitatethefinalresurrection；andforthhestrode，apicturetolookatandapresencetoenforceattention。Stalwartandportly；notagrayhair；broadbrimmedslouchhat；semi-sailortoggeryofbluenavyflannel——roomyandample；astatelyexpanseofshirt-frontandaliberalamountofblacksilkneck-clothtiedwithasailorknot；largechainandimposingsealsimpendingfromhisfob；awe-inspiringfeet，and“ahandlikethehandofProvidence，“ashiswhalingbrethrenexpressedit；wrist-bandsandsleevespushedbackhalfwaytotheelbow，outofrespectforthewarmweather，andexposinghairyarms，gaudywithredandblueanchors，ships，andgoddessesoflibertytattooedinIndiaink。

Butthesedetailswereonlysecondarymatters——hisfacewasthelodestonethatchainedtheeye。Itwasasultrydisk，glowingdeterminedlyoutthroughaweatherbeatenmaskofmahogany，andstuddedwithwarts，seamedwithscars，“blazed“alloverwithunfailingfreshslipsoftherazor；

andwithcheeryeyes，undershaggybrows，contemplatingtheworldfromoverthebackofagnarledcragofanosethatloomedvastandlonelyoutoftheundulatingimmensitythatspreadawayfromitsfoundations。

Athisheelsfriskedthedarlingofhisbachelorestate，histerrier“Fan，“acreaturenolargerthanasquirrel。Themainpartofhisdailylifewasoccupiedinlookingafter“Fan，“inamotherlyway，anddoctoringherforahundredailmentswhichexistedonlyinhisimagination。

TheAdmiralseldomreadnewspapers；andwhenhedidheneverbelievedanythingtheysaid。Hereadnothing，andbelievedinnothing，but“TheOldGuard，“asecessionperiodicalpublishedinNewYork。Hecarriedadozencopiesofitwithhim，always，andreferredtothemforallrequiredinformation。Ifitwasnotthere，hesuppliedithimself，outofabountifulfancy，inventinghistory，names，dates，andeverythingelsenecessarytomakehispointgoodinanargument。Consequentlyhewasaformidableantagonistinadispute。Wheneverheswungclearoftherecordandbegantocreatehistory，theenemywashelplessandhadtosurrender。Indeed，theenemycouldnotkeepfrombetrayingsomelittlesparkofindignationathismanufacturedhistory——andwhenitcametoindignation，thatwastheAdmiral"svery“besthold。”Hewasalwaysreadyforapoliticalargument，andifnobodystartedonehewoulddoithimself。Withhisthirdretorthistemperwouldbegintorise，andwithinfiveminuteshewouldbeblowingagale，andwithinfifteenhissmoking-roomaudiencewouldbeutterlystormedawayandtheoldmanleftsolitaryandalone，bangingthetablewithhisfist，kickingthechairs，androaringahurricaneofprofanity。Itgotso，afterawhile，thatwhenevertheAdmiralapproached，withpoliticsinhiseye，thepassengerswoulddropoutwithquietaccord，afraidtomeethim；andhewouldcamponadesertedfield。

Buthefoundhismatchatlast，andbeforeafullcompany。Atonetimeoranother，everybodyhadenteredthelistsagainsthimandbeenrouted，exceptthequietpassengerWilliams。Hehadneverbeenabletogetanexpressionofopinionoutofhimonpolitics。Butnow，justastheAdmiraldrewnearthedoorandthecompanywereabouttoslipout，Williamssaid:

“Admiral，areyoucertainaboutthatcircumstanceconcerningtheclergymenyoumentionedtheotherday?“——referringtoapieceoftheAdmiral"smanufacturedhistory。

Everyonewasamazedattheman"srashness。Theideaofdeliberatelyinvitingannihilationwasathingincomprehensible。Theretreatcametoahalt；theneverybodysatdownagainwondering，toawaittheupshotofit。TheAdmiralhimselfwasassurprisedasanyone。Hepausedinthedoor，withhisredhandkerchiefhalfraisedtohissweatingface，andcontemplatedthedaringreptileinthecorner。

“Certainofit?AmIcertainofit?DoyouthinkI"vebeenlyingaboutit?Whatdoyoutakemefor?Anybodythatdon"tknowthatcircumstance，don"tknowanything；achildoughttoknowit。Readupyourhistory！

Readitup——，anddon"tcomeaskingamanifhe"scertainaboutabitofABCstuffthattheverysouthernniggersknowallabout。”

HeretheAdmiral"sfiresbegantowaxhot，theatmospherethickened，thecomingearthquakerumbled，hebegantothunderandlighten。Withinthreeminuteshisvolcanowasinfullirruptionandhewasdischargingflamesandashesofindignation，belchingblackvolumesoffoulhistoryaloft，andvomitingred-hottorrentsofprofanityfromhiscrater。MeantimeWilliamssatsilent，andapparentlydeeplyandearnestlyinterestedinwhattheoldmanwassaying。Byandby，whenthelullcame，hesaidinthemostdeferentialway，andwiththegratifiedairofamanwhohashadamysteryclearedupwhichhadbeenpuzzlinghimuncomfortably:

“NowIunderstandit。IalwaysthoughtIknewthatpieceofhistorywellenough，butwasstillafraidtotrustit，becausetherewasnotthatconvincingparticularityaboutitthatonelikestohaveinhistory；butwhenyoumentionedeveryname，theotherday，andeverydate，andeverylittlecircumstance，intheirjustorderandsequence，Isaidtomyself，thissoundssomethinglike——thisishistory——thisisputtingitinashapethatgivesamanconfidence；andIsaidtomyselfafterward，IwilljustasktheAdmiralifheisperfectlycertainaboutthedetails，andifheisIwillcomeoutandthankhimforclearingthismatterupforme。

AndthatiswhatIwanttodonow——foruntilyousetthatmatterrightitwasnothingbutjustaconfusioninmymind，withoutheadortailtoit。”

NobodyeversawtheAdmirallooksomollifiedbefore，andsopleased。

Nobodyhadeverreceivedhisbogushistoryasgospelbefore；itsgenuinenesshadalwaysbeencalledinquestioneitherbywordsorlooks；

butherewasamanthatnotonlyswalloweditalldown，butwasgratefulforthedose。Hewastakenaback；hehardlyknewwhattosay；evenhisprofanityfailedhim。Now，Williamscontinued，modestlyandearnestly:

“ButAdmiral，insayingthatthiswasthefirststonethrown，andthatthisprecipitatedthewar，youhaveoverlookedacircumstancewhichyouareperfectlyfamiliarwith，butwhichhasescapedyourmemory。NowI

grantyouthatwhatyouhavestatediscorrectineverydetail——towit:

thatonthe16thofOctober，1860，twoMassachusettsclergymen，namedWaiteandGranger，wentindisguisetothehouseofJohnMoody，inRockport，atdeadofnight，anddraggedforthtwosouthernwomenandtheirtwolittlechildren，andaftertarringandfeatheringthemconveyedthemtoBostonandburnedthemaliveintheStateHousesquare；andI

alsograntyourpropositionthatthisdeediswhatledtothesecessionofSouthCarolinaonthe20thofDecemberfollowing。Verywell。”[HerethecompanywerepleasantlysurprisedtohearWilliamsproceedtocomebackattheAdmiralwithhisowninvincibleweapon——clean，pure，manufacturedhistory，withoutawordoftruthinit。]“Verywell，Isay。

ButAdmiral，whyoverlooktheWillisandMorgancaseinSouthCarolina?

Youaretoowellinformedamannottoknowallaboutthatcircumstance。

Yourargumentsandyourconversationshaveshownyoutobeintimatelyconversantwitheverydetailofthisnationalquarrel。Youdevelopmattersofhistoryeverydaythatshowplainlythatyouarenosmattererinit，contenttonibbleaboutthesurface，butamanwhohassearchedthedepthsandpossessedyourselfofeverythingthathasabearinguponthegreatquestion。Therefore，letmejustrecalltoyourmindthatWillisandMorgancase——thoughIseebyyourfacethatthewholethingisalreadypassingthroughyourmemoryatthismoment。Onthe12thofAugust，1860，twomonthsbeforetheWaiteandGrangeraffair，twoSouthCarolinaclergymen，namedJohnH。MorganandWinthropL。Willis，oneaMethodistandtheotheranOldSchoolBaptist，disguisedthemselves，andwentatmidnighttothehouseofaplanternamedThompson——ArchibaldF。

Thompson，VicePresidentunderThomasJefferson，——andtookthence，atmidnight，hiswidowedaunt，(aNorthernwoman，)andheradoptedchild，anorphan——namedMortimerHighie，afflictedwithepilepsyandsufferingatthetimefromwhiteswellingononeofhislegs，andcompelledtowalkoncrutchesinconsequence；andthetwoministers，inspiteofthepleadingsofthevictims，draggedthemtothebush，tarredandfeatheredthem，andafterwardburnedthematthestakeinthecityofCharleston。Yourememberperfectlywellwhatastiritmade；yourememberperfectlywellthateventheCharlestonCourierstigmatizedtheactasbeingunpleasant，ofquestionablepropriety，andscarcelyjustifiable，andlikewisethatitwouldnotbematterofsurpriseifretaliationensued。Andyourememberalso，thatthisthingwasthecauseoftheMassachusettsoutrage。Who，indeed，werethetwoMassachusettsministers?andwhowerethetwoSouthernwomentheyburned?Idonotneedtoremindyou，Admiral，withyourintimateknowledgeofhistory，thatWaitewasthenephewofthewomanburnedinCharleston；thatGrangerwashercousinintheseconddegree，andthatthewomantheyburnedinBostonwasthewifeofJohnH。

Morgan，andthestilllovedbutdivorcedwifeofWinthropL。Willis。

Now，Admiral，itisonlyfairthatyoushouldacknowledgethatthefirstprovocationcamefromtheSouthernpreachersandthattheNorthernoneswerejustifiedinretaliating。Inyourargumentsyouneveryethaveshowntheleastdispositiontowithholdajustverdictorbeinanywiseunfair，whenauthoritativehistorycondemnedyourposition，andthereforeIhavenohesitationinaskingyoutotaketheoriginalblamefromtheMassachusettsministers，inthismatter，andtransferittotheSouthCarolinaclergymenwhereitjustlybelongs。”

TheAdmiralwasconquered。Thissweetspokencreaturewhoswallowedhisfraudulenthistoryasifitwerethebreadoflife；baskedinhisfuriousblasphemyasifitweregeneroussunshine；foundonlycalm，even-handedjusticeinhisrampartpartisanship；andfloodedhimwithinventedhistorysosugarcoatedwithflatteryanddeferencethattherewasnorejectingit，was“toomany“forhim。Hestammeredsomeawkward，profanesentencesaboutthe——WillisandMorganbusinesshavingescapedhismemory，butthathe“remembereditnow，“andthen，underpretenceofgivingFansomemedicineforanimaginarycough，drewoutofthebattleandwentaway，avanquishedman。Thencheersandlaughterwentup，andWilliams，theship"sbenefactorwasahero。Thenewswentaboutthevessel，champagnewasordered，andenthusiasticreceptioninstitutedinthesmokingroom，andeverybodyflockedthithertoshakehandswiththeconqueror。Thewheelmansaidafterward，thattheAdmiralstoodupbehindthepilothouseand“rippedandcursedalltohimself“tillheloosenedthesmokestackguysandbecalmedthemainsail。

TheAdmiral"spowerwasbroken。Afterthat，ifhebeganargument，somebodywouldbringWilliams，andtheoldmanwouldgrowweakandbegintoquietdownatonce。Andassoonashewasdone，Williamsinhisdulcet，insinuatingway，wouldinventsomehistory(referringforproof，totheoldman"sownexcellentmemoryandtocopiesof“TheOldGuard“

knownnottobeinhispossession)thatwouldturnthetablescompletelyandleavetheAdmiralallabroadandhelpless。ByandbyhecametosodreadWilliamsandhisgildedtonguethathewouldstoptalkingwhenhesawhimapproach，andfinallyceasedtomentionpoliticsaltogether，andfromthattimeforwardtherewasentirepeaceandserenityintheship。

CHAPTERLXIII。

OnacertainbrightmorningtheIslandshoveinsight，lyinglowonthelonelysea，andeverybodyclimbedtotheupperdecktolook。Aftertwothousandmilesofwaterysolitudethevisionwasawelcomeone。Asweapproached，theimposingpromontoryofDiamondHeadroseupoutoftheoceanitsruggedfrontsoftenedbythehazydistance，andpresentlythedetailsofthelandbegantomakethemselvesmanifest:firstthelineofbeach；thentheplumedcoacoanuttreesofthetropics；thencabinsofthenatives；thenthewhitetownofHonolulu，saidtocontainbetweentwelveandfifteenthousandinhabitantsspreadoveradeadlevel；withstreetsfromtwentytothirtyfeetwide，solidandlevelasafloor，mostofthemstraightasalineandfewascrookedasacorkscrew。

ThefurtherItraveledthroughthetownthebetterIlikedit。Everysteprevealedanewcontrast——disclosedsomethingIwasunaccustomedto。

Inplaceofthegrandmud-coloredbrownfrontsofSanFrancisco，Isawdwellingsbuiltofstraw，adobies，andcream-coloredpebble-and-shell-

conglomeratedcoral，cutintooblongblocksandlaidincement；alsoagreatnumberofneatwhitecottages，withgreenwindow-shutters；inplaceoffrontyardslikebilliard-tableswithironfencesaroundthem，Isawthesehomessurroundedbyampleyards，thicklycladwithgreengrass，andshadedbytalltrees，throughwhosedensefoliagethesuncouldscarcelypenetrate；inplaceofthecustomarygeranium，callalily，etc。，languishingindustandgeneraldebility，Isawluxuriousbanksandthicketsofflowers，freshasameadowafterarain，andglowingwiththerichestdyes；inplaceofthedingyhorrorsofSanFrancisco"spleasuregrove，the“Willows，“Isawhuge-bodied，wide-spreadingforesttrees，withstrangenamesandstrangerappearance——treesthatcastashadowlikeathunder-cloud，andwereabletostandalonewithoutbeingtiedtogreenpoles；inplaceofgoldfish，wigglingaroundinglassglobes，assumingcountlessshadesanddegreesofdistortionthroughthemagnifyinganddiminishingqualitiesoftheirtransparentprisonhouses，Isawcats——

Tom-cats，MaryAnncats，long-tailedcats，bob-tailedcats，blindcats，one-eyedcats，wall-eyedcats，cross-eyedcats，graycats，blackcats，whitecats，yellowcats，stripedcats，spottedcats，tamecats，wildcats，singedcats，individualcats，groupsofcats，platoonsofcats，companiesofcats，regimentsofcats，armiesofcats，multitudesofcats，millionsofcats，andallofthemsleek，fat，lazyandsoundasleep。

Ilookedonamultitudeofpeople，somewhite，inwhitecoats，vests，pantaloons，evenwhiteclothshoes，madesnowywithchalkdulylaidoneverymorning；butthemajorityofthepeoplewerealmostasdarkasnegroes——womenwithcomelyfeatures，fineblackeyes，roundedforms，incliningtothevoluptuous，cladinasinglebrightredorwhitegarmentthatfellfreeandunconfinedfromshouldertoheel，longblackhairfallingloose，gypsyhats，encircledwithwreathsofnaturalflowersofabrilliantcarminetint；plentyofdarkmeninvariouscostumes，andsomewithnothingonbutabatteredstove-pipehattiltedonthenose，andaveryscantbreech-clout；——certainsmoke-driedchildrenwereclothedinnothingbutsunshine——averyneatfittingandpicturesqueapparelindeed。

Inplaceofroughsandrowdiesstaringandblackguardingonthecorners，Isawlong-haired，saddle-coloredSandwichIslandmaidenssittingonthegroundintheshadeofcornerhouses，gazingindolentlyatwhateverorwhoeverhappenedalong；insteadofwretchedcobble-stonepavements，I

walkedonafirmfoundationofcoral，builtupfromthebottomoftheseabytheabsurdbutperseveringinsectofthatname，withalightlayeroflavaandcindersoverlyingthecoral，belchedupoutoffathomlessperditionlongagothroughthesearedandblackenedcraterthatstandsdeadandharmlessinthedistancenow；insteadofcrampedandcrowdedstreet-cars，Imetduskynativewomensweepingby，freeasthewind，onfleethorsesandastride，withgaudyriding-sashes，streaminglikebannersbehindthem；insteadofthecombinedstenchesofChinadomandBrannanstreetslaughter-houses，Ibreathedthebalmyfragranceofjessamine，oleander，andthePrideofIndia；inplaceofthehurryandbustleandnoisyconfusionofSanFrancisco，ImovedinthemidstofaSummercalmastranquilasdawnintheGardenofEden；inplaceoftheGoldenCity"sskirtingsandhillsandtheplacidbay，Isawontheonesideaframe-workoftall，precipitousmountainscloseathand，cladinrefreshinggreen，andcleftbydeep，cool，chasm-likevalleys——andinfrontthegrandsweepoftheocean；abrilliant，transparentgreenneartheshore，boundandborderedbyalongwhitelineoffoamyspraydashingagainstthereef，andfurtheroutthedeadbluewaterofthedeepsea，fleckedwith“whitecaps，“andinthefarhorizonasingle，lonelysail——

amereaccent-marktoemphasizeaslumberouscalmandasolitudethatwerewithoutsoundorlimit。Whenthesunsunkdown——theoneintruderfromotherrealmsandpersistentinsuggestionsofthem——itwastrancedluxurytositintheperfumedairandforgetthattherewasanyworldbuttheseenchantedislands。

Itwassuchecstacytodream，anddream——tillyougotabite。

Ascorpionbite。Thenthefirstdutywastogetupoutofthegrassandkillthescorpion；andthenexttobathethebittenplacewithalcoholorbrandy；andthenexttoresolvetokeepoutofthegrassinfuture。Thencameanadjournmenttothebed-chamberandthepastimeofwritinguptheday"sjournalwithonehandandthedestructionofmosquitoeswiththeother——awholecommunityofthemataslap。Then，observinganenemyapproaching，——ahairytarantulaonstilts——whynotsetthespittoononhim?Itisdone，andtheprojectingendsofhispawsgivealuminousideaofthemagnitudeofhisreach。Thentobedandbecomeapromenadeforacentipedewithforty-twolegsonasideandeveryfoothotenoughtoburnaholethrougharaw-hide。Moresoakingwithalcohol，andaresolutiontoexaminethebedbeforeenteringit，infuture。Thenwait，andsuffer，tillallthemosquitoesintheneighborhoodhavecrawledinunderthebar，thenslipoutquickly，shuttheminandsleeppeacefullyonthefloortillmorning。Meantimeitiscomfortingtocursethetropicsinoccasionalwakefulintervals。

WehadanabundanceoffruitinHonolulu，ofcourse。Oranges，pine-

apples，bananas，strawberries，lemons，limes，mangoes，guavas，melons，andarareandcuriousluxurycalledthechirimoya，whichisdeliciousnessitself。Thenthereisthetamarind。Ithoughttamarindsweremadetoeat，butthatwasprobablynottheidea。Iateseveral，anditseemedtomethattheywererathersourthatyear。Theypursedupmylips，tilltheyresembledthestem-endofatomato，andIhadtotakemysustenancethroughaquillfortwenty-fourhours。

TheysharpenedmyteethtillIcouldhaveshavedwiththem，andgavethema“wireedge“thatIwasafraidwouldstay；butacitizensaid“no，itwillcomeoffwhentheenameldoes“——whichwascomforting，atanyrate。

Ifound，afterward，thatonlystrangerseattamarinds——buttheyonlyeatthemonce。

CHAPTERLXIV。

InmydiaryofourthirddayinHonolulu，Ifindthis:

IamprobablythemostsensitivemaninHawaiito-night——especiallyaboutsittingdowninthepresenceofmybetters。Ihaveriddenfifteenortwentymilesonhorse-backsince5P。M。andtotellthehonesttruth，I

haveadelicacyaboutsittingdownatall。

AnexcursiontoDiamondHeadandtheKing"sCoacoanutGrovewasplannedto-day——time，4:30P。M——thepartytoconsistofhalfadozengentlemenandthreeladies。Theyallstartedattheappointedhourexceptmyself。

IwasattheGovernmentprison，(withCaptainFishandanotherwhaleship-

skipper，CaptainPhillips，)andgotsointerestedinitsexaminationthatIdidnotnoticehowquicklythetimewaspassing。Somebodyremarkedthatitwastwentyminutespastfiveo"clock，andthatwokemeup。ItwasafortunatecircumstancethatCaptainPhillipswasalongwithhis“turnout，“ashecallsatop-buggythatCaptainCookbroughtherein1778，andahorsethatwasherewhenCaptainCookcame。CaptainPhillipstakesajustprideinhisdrivingandinthespeedofhishorse，andtohispassionfordisplayingthemIoweitthatwewereonlysixteenminutescomingfromtheprisontotheAmericanHotel——adistancewhichhasbeenestimatedtobeoverhalfamile。Butittooksomefearfuldriving。TheCaptain"swhipcamedownfast，andtheblowsstartedsomuchdustoutofthehorse"shidethatduringthelasthalfofthejourneywerodethroughanimpenetrablefog，andranbyapocketcompassinthehandsofCaptainFish，awhaleroftwenty-sixyearsexperience，whosattherethroughtheperilousvoyageasself-possessedasifhehadbeenontheeuchre-deckofhisownship，andcalmlysaid，“Portyourhelm——port，“fromtimetotime，and“Holdheralittlefree——steady——so——

so，“and“Luff——harddowntostarboard！“andneveroncelosthispresenceofmindorbetrayedtheleastanxietybyvoiceormanner。Whenwecametoanchoratlast，andCaptainPhillipslookedathiswatchandsaid，“Sixteenminutes——Itoldyouitwasinher！that"soverthreemilesanhour！“Icouldseehefeltentitledtoacompliment，andsoIsaidIhadneverseenlightninggolikethathorse。AndIneverhad。

ThelandlordoftheAmericansaidthepartyhadbeengonenearlyanhour，butthathecouldgivememychoiceofseveralhorsesthatcouldovertakethem。Isaid，nevermind——Ipreferredasafehorsetoafastone——I

wouldliketohaveanexcessivelygentlehorse——ahorsewithnospiritwhatever——alameone，ifhehadsuchathing。InsideoffiveminutesI

wasmounted，andperfectlysatisfiedwithmyoutfit。Ihadnotimetolabelhim“Thisisahorse，“andsoifthepublictookhimforasheepI

cannothelpit。Iwassatisfied，andthatwasthemainthing。Icouldseethathehadasmanyfinepointsasanyman"shorse，andsoIhungmyhatononeofthem，behindthesaddle，andswabbedtheperspirationfrommyfaceandstarted。Inamedhimafterthisisland，“Oahu“(pronouncedO-waw-hee)。Thefirstgatehecametohestartedin；Ihadneitherwhipnorspur，andsoIsimplyarguedthecasewithhim。Heresistedargument，butultimatelyyieldedtoinsultandabuse。Hebackedoutofthatgateandsteeredforanotheroneontheothersideofthestreet。

Itriumphedbymyformerprocess。Withinthenextsixhundredyardshecrossedthestreetfourteentimesandattemptedthirteengates，andinthemeantimethetropicalsunwasbeatingdownandthreateningtocavethetopofmyheadin，andIwasliterallydrippingwithperspiration。

Heabandonedthegatebusinessafterthatandwentalongpeaceablyenough，butabsorbedinmeditation。Inoticedthislattercircumstance，anditsoonbegantofillmewithapprehension。Isaidtomyself，thiscreatureisplanningsomenewoutrage，somefreshdeviltryorother——nohorseeverthoughtoverasubjectsoprofoundlyasthisoneisdoingjustfornothing。ThemorethisthingpreyeduponmymindthemoreuneasyI

became，untilthesuspensebecamealmostunbearableandIdismountedtoseeiftherewasanythingwildinhiseye——forIhadheardthattheeyeofthisnoblestofourdomesticanimalsisveryexpressive。

IcannotdescribewhataloadofanxietywasliftedfrommymindwhenI

foundthathewasonlyasleep。Iwokehimupandstartedhimintoafasterwalk，andthenthevillainyofhisnaturecameoutagain。Hetriedtoclimboverastonewall，fiveorsixfeethigh。IsawthatI

mustapplyforcetothishorse，andthatImightaswellbeginfirstaslast。Ipluckedastoutswitchfromatamarindtree，andthemomenthesawit，hesurrendered。Hebrokeintoaconvulsivesortofacanter，whichhadthreeshortstepsinitandonelongone，andremindedmealternatelyoftheclatteringshakeofthegreatearthquake，andthesweepingplungingoftheAjaxinastorm。

Andnowtherecanbenofitteroccasionthanthepresenttopronouncealeft-handedblessinguponthemanwhoinventedtheAmericansaddle。

Thereisnoseattospeakofaboutit——onemightaswellsitinashovel——

andthestirrupsarenothingbutanornamentalnuisance。IfIweretowritedownherealltheabuseIexpendedonthosestirrups，itwouldmakealargebook，evenwithoutpictures。SometimesIgotonefootsofarthrough，thatthestirruppartookofthenatureofananklet；sometimesbothfeetwerethrough，andIwashandcuffedbythelegs；andsometimesmyfeetgotclearoutandleftthestirrupswildlydanglingaboutmyshins。EvenwhenIwasinproperpositionandcarefullybalancedupontheballsofmyfeet，therewasnocomfortinit，onaccountofmynervousdreadthattheyweregoingtosliponewayortheotherinamoment。Butthesubjectistooexasperatingtowriteabout。

Amileandahalffromtown，Icametoagroveoftallcocoanuttrees，withclean，branchlessstemsreachingstraightupsixtyorseventyfeetandtoppedwithasprayofgreenfoliageshelteringclustersofcocoa-

nuts——notmorepicturesquethanaforestofcollossalraggedparasols，withbunchesofmagnifiedgrapesunderthem，wouldbe。

Ionceheardagoutynortherninvalidsaythatacocoanuttreemightbepoetical，possiblyitwas；butitlookedlikeafeather-dusterstruckbylightning。Ithinkthatdescribesitbetterthanapicture——andyet，withoutanyquestion，thereissomethingfascinatingaboutacocoa-nuttree——andgraceful，too。

Aboutadozencottages，someframeandtheothersofnativegrass，nestledsleepilyintheshadehereandthere。Thegrasscabinsareofagrayishcolor，areshapedmuchlikeourowncottages，onlywithhigherandsteeperroofsusually，andaremadeofsomekindofweedstronglyboundtogetherinbundles。Theroofsareverythick，andsoarethewalls；thelatterhavesquareholesinthemforwindows。Atalittledistancethesecabinshaveafurryappearance，asiftheymightbemadeofbearskins。Theyareverycoolandpleasantinside。TheKing"sflagwasflyingfromtheroofofoneofthecottages，andHisMajestywasprobablywithin。Heownsthewholeconcernthereabouts，andpasseshistimetherefrequently，onsultrydays“layingoff。”Thespotiscalled“TheKing"sGrove。”

Nearbyisaninterestingruin——themeagreremainsofanancientheathentemple——aplacewherehumansacrificeswereofferedupinthoseoldbygonedayswhenthesimplechildofnature，yieldingmomentarilytosinwhensorelytempted，acknowledgedhiserrorwhencalmreflectionhadshownithim，andcameforwardwithnoblefranknessandoffereduphisgrandmotherasanatoningsacrifice——inthoseolddayswhenthelucklesssinnercouldkeeponcleansinghisconscienceandachievingperiodicalhappinessaslongashisrelationsheldout；long，longbeforethemissionariesbravedathousandprivationstocomeandmakethempermanentlymiserablebytellingthemhowbeautifulandhowblissfulaplaceheavenis，andhownearlyimpossibleitistogetthere；andshowedthepoornativehowdrearyaplaceperditionisandwhatunnecessarilyliberalfacilitiesthereareforgoingtoit；showedhimhow，inhisignorancehehadgoneandfooledawayallhiskinfolkstonopurpose；

showedhimwhatraptureitistoworkalldaylongforfiftycentstobuyfoodfornextdaywith，ascomparedwithfishingforpastimeandlollingintheshadethrougheternalSummer，andeatingofthebountythatnobodylaboredtoprovidebutNature。Howsaditistothinkofthemultitudeswhohavegonetotheirgravesinthisbeautifulislandandneverknewtherewasahell！

Thisancienttemplewasbuiltofroughblocksoflava，andwassimplyarooflessinclosureahundredandthirtyfeetlongandseventywide——

nothingbutnakedwalls，verythick，butnotmuchhigherthanaman"shead。Theywilllastforagesnodoubt，ifleftunmolested。Itsthreealtarsandothersacredappurtenanceshavecrumbledandpassedawayyearsago。Itissaidthatintheoldtimesthousandsofhumanbeingswereslaughteredhere，inthepresenceofnakedandhowlingsavages。Ifthesemutestonescouldspeak，whattalestheycouldtell，whatpicturestheycoulddescribe，offetteredvictimswrithingundertheknife；ofmassedformsstrainingforwardoutofthegloom，withferociousfaceslitupbythesacrificialfires；ofthebackgroundofghostlytrees；ofthedarkpyramidofDiamondHeadstandingsentinelovertheuncannyscene，andthepeacefulmoonlookingdownuponitthroughriftsinthecloud-rack！

WhenKamehameha(pronouncedKa-may-ha-may-ah)theGreat——whowasasortofaNapoleoninmilitarygeniusanduniformsuccess——invadedthisislandofOahuthreequartersofacenturyago，andexterminatedthearmysenttoopposehim，andtookfullandfinalpossessionofthecountry，hesearchedoutthedeadbodyoftheKingofOahu，andthoseoftheprincipalchiefs，andimpaledtheirheadsonthewallsofthistemple。

Thoseweresavagetimeswhenthisoldslaughter-housewasinitsprime。

TheKingandthechiefsruledthecommonherdwitharodofiron；madethemgatheralltheprovisionsthemastersneeded；buildallthehousesandtemples；standalltheexpenses，ofwhateverkind；takekicksandcuffsforthanks；dragoutliveswellflavoredwithmisery，andthensufferdeathfortriflingoffencesoryielduptheirlivesonthesacrificialaltarstopurchasefavorsfromthegodsfortheirhardrulers。Themissionarieshaveclothedthem，educatedthem，brokenupthetyrannousauthorityoftheirchiefs，andgiventhemfreedomandtherighttoenjoywhatevertheirhandsandbrainsproducewithequallawsforall，andpunishmentforallalikewhotransgressthem。Thecontrastissostrong——thebenefitconferreduponthispeoplebythemissionariesissoprominent，sopalpableandsounquestionable，thatthefrankestcomplimentIcanpaythem，andthebest，issimplytopointtotheconditionoftheSandwichIslandersofCaptainCook"stime，andtheirconditionto-day。

Theirworkspeaksforitself。

CHAPTERLXV。

Byandby，afteraruggedclimb，wehaltedonthesummitofahillwhichcommandedafar-reachingview。Themoonroseandfloodedmountainandvalleyandoceanwithamellowradiance，andoutoftheshadowsofthefoliagethedistantlightsofHonoluluglintedlikeanencampmentoffireflies。Theairwasheavywiththefragranceofflowers。Thehaltwasbrief——Gaylylaughingandtalking，thepartygallopedon，andI

clungtothepommelandcanteredafter。Presentlywecametoaplacewherenograssgrew——awideexpanseofdeepsand。Theysaiditwasanoldbattleground。Allaroundeverywhere，notthreefeetapart，thebleachedbonesofmengleamedwhiteinthemoonlight。Wepickedupalotofthemformementoes。Igotquiteanumberofarmbonesandlegbones——

ofgreatchiefs，maybe，whohadfoughtsavagelyinthatfearfulbattleintheolddays，whenbloodflowedlikewinewherewenowstood——andworethechoicestofthemoutonOahuafterward，tryingtomakehimgo。Allsortsofbonescouldbefoundexceptskulls；butacitizensaid，irreverently，thattherehadbeenanunusualnumberof“skull-hunters“

therelately——aspeciesofsportsmenIhadneverheardofbefore。

Nothingwhateverisknownaboutthisplace——itsstoryisasecretthatwillneverberevealed。Theoldestnativesmakenopretenseofbeingpossessedofitshistory。Theysaytheseboneswereherewhentheywerechildren。Theywereherewhentheirgrandfatherswerechildren——buthowtheycamehere，theycanonlyconjecture。Manypeoplebelievethisspottobeanancientbattle-ground，anditisusualtocallitso；andtheybelievethattheseskeletonshavelainforagesjustwheretheirproprietorsfellinthegreatfight。OtherpeoplebelievethatKamehamehaI。foughthisfirstbattlehere。Onthispoint，Ihaveheardastory，whichmayhavebeentakenfromoneofthenumerousbookswhichhavebeenwrittenconcerningtheseislands——Idonotknowwherethenarratorgotit。HesaidthatwhenKamehameha(whowasatfirstmerelyasubordinatechiefontheislandofHawaii)，landedhere，hebroughtalargearmywithhim，andencampedatWaikiki。TheOahuansmarchedagainsthim，andsoconfidentweretheyofsuccessthattheyreadilyaccededtoademandoftheirprieststhattheyshoulddrawalinewherethesebonesnowlie，andtakeanoaththat，ifforcedtoretreatatall，theywouldneverretreatbeyondthisboundary。Theprieststoldthemthatdeathandeverlastingpunishmentwouldovertakeanywhoviolatedtheoath，andthemarchwasresumed。Kamehamehadrovethembackstepbystep；thepriestsfoughtinthefrontrankandexhortedthembothbyvoiceandinspiritingexampletoremembertheiroath——todie，ifneedbe，butnevercrossthefatalline。Thestrugglewasmanfullymaintained，butatlastthechiefpriestfell，piercedtotheheartwithaspear，andtheunluckyomenfelllikeablightuponthebravesoulsathisback；

withatriumphantshouttheinvaderspressedforward——thelinewascrossed——theoffendedgodsdesertedthedespairingarmy，and，acceptingthedoomtheirperjuryhadbroughtuponthem，theybrokeandfledovertheplainwhereHonolulustandsnow——upthebeautifulNuuanuValley——

pausedamoment，hemmedinbyprecipitousmountainsoneitherhandandthefrightfulprecipiceofthePariinfront，andthenweredrivenover——

asheerplungeofsixhundredfeet！

Thestoryisprettyenough，butMr。Jarves"excellenthistorysaystheOahuanswereintrenchedinNuuanuValley；thatKamehamehaoustedthem，routedthem，pursuedthemupthevalleyanddrovethemovertheprecipice。Hemakesnomentionofourbone-yardatallinhisbook。

Impressedbytheprofoundsilenceandreposethatrestedoverthebeautifullandscape，andbeing，asusual，intherear，Igavevoicetomythoughts。Isaid:

“Whatapictureishereslumberinginthesolemngloryofthemoon！Howstrongtheruggedoutlinesofthedeadvolcanostandoutagainsttheclearsky！Whatasnowyfringemarkstheburstingofthesurfoverthelong，curvedreef！Howcalmlythedimcitysleepsyonderintheplain！

Howsofttheshadowslieuponthestatelymountainsthatborderthedream-hauntedMauoaValley！WhatagrandpyramidofbillowycloudstowersabovethestoriedPari！Howthegrimwarriorsofthepastseemflockinginghostlysquadronstotheirancientbattlefieldagain——howthewailsofthedyingwellupfromthe——“

AtthispointthehorsecalledOahusatdowninthesand。Satdowntolisten，Isuppose。Nevermindwhatheheard，IstoppedapostrophisingandconvincedhimthatIwasnotamantoallowcontemptofCourtonthepartofahorse。Ibroketheback-boneofaChiefoverhisrumpandsetouttojointhecavalcadeagain。

Veryconsiderablyfaggedoutwearrivedintownat9o"clockatnight，myselfinthelead——forwhenmyhorsefinallycametounderstandthathewashomewardboundandhadn"tfartogo，heturnedhisattentionstrictlytobusiness。

Thisisagoodtimetodropinaparagraphofinformation。ThereisnoregularliverystableinHonolulu，or，indeed，inanypartoftheKingdomofHawaii；thereforeunlessyouareacquaintedwithwealthyresidents(whoallhavegoodhorses)，youmusthireanimalsofthewretchedestdescriptionfromtheKanakas。(i。e。natives。)Anyhorseyouhire，eventhoughitbefromawhiteman，isnotoftenofmuchaccount，becauseitwillbebroughtinforyoufromsomeranch，andhasnecessarilybeenleadingahardlife。IftheKanakaswhohavebeencaringforhim(inveterateriderstheyare)havenotriddenhimhalftodeatheverydaythemselves，youcandependuponittheyhavebeendoingthesamethingbyproxy，byclandestinelyhiringhimout。Atleast，soIaminformed。Theresultis，thatnohorsehasachancetoeat，drink，rest，recuperate，orlookwellorfeelwell，andsostrangersgoabouttheIslandsmountedasIwasto-day。

InhiringahorsefromaKanaka，youmusthaveallyoureyesaboutyou，becauseyoucanrestsatisfiedthatyouaredealingwithashrewdunprincipledrascal。Youmayleaveyourdooropenandyourtrunkunlockedaslongasyouplease，andhewillnotmeddlewithyourproperty；hehasnoimportantvicesandnoinclinationtocommitrobberyonalargescale；butifhecangetaheadofyouinthehorsebusiness，hewilltakeagenuinedelightindoingit。Thistraitsischaracteristicofhorsejockeys，theworldover，isitnot?Hewilloverchargeyouifhecan；hewillhireyouafine-lookinghorseatnight(anybody"s——maybetheKing"s，iftheroyalsteedbeinconvenientview)，andbringyouthematetomyOahuinthemorning，andcontendthatitisthesameanimal。Ifyoumaketrouble，hewillgetoutbysayingitwasnothimselfwhomadethebargainwithyou，buthisbrother，“whowentoutinthecountrythismorning。”Theyhavealwaysgota“brother“toshifttheresponsibilityupon。Avictimsaidtooneofthesefellowsoneday:

“ButIknowIhiredthehorseofyou，becauseInoticedthatscaronyourcheek。”

Thereplywasnotbad:“Oh，yes——yes——mybrotherallsame——wetwins！“

Afriendofmine，J。Smith，hiredahorseyesterday，theKanakawarrantinghimtobeinexcellentcondition。

Smithhadasaddleandblanketofhisown，andheorderedtheKanakatoputtheseonthehorse。TheKanakaprotestedthathewasperfectlywillingtotrustthegentlemanwiththesaddlethatwasalreadyontheanimal，butSmithrefusedtouseit。Thechangewasmade；thenSmithnoticedthattheKanakahadonlychangedthesaddles，andhadlefttheoriginalblanketonthehorse；hesaidheforgottochangetheblankets，andso，tocutthebothershort，Smithmountedandrodeaway。Thehorsewentlameamilefromtown，andafterwardgottocuttingupsomeextraordinarycapers。Smithgotdownandtookoffthesaddle，buttheblanketstuckfasttothehorse——gluedtoaprocessionofrawplaces。

TheKanaka"smysteriousconductstoodexplained。

Anotherfriendofmineboughtaprettygoodhorsefromanative，adayortwoago，afteratolerablythoroughexaminationoftheanimal。Hediscoveredtodaythatthehorsewasasblindasabat，inoneeye。Hemeanttohaveexaminedthateye，andcamehomewithageneralnotionthathehaddoneit；butheremembersnowthateverytimehemadetheattempthisattentionwascalledtosomethingelsebyhisvictimizer。

Onemoreinstance，andthenIwillpasstosomethingelse。IaminformedthatwhenacertainMr。L。，avisitingstranger，washere，heboughtapairofveryrespectable-lookingmatchhorsesfromanative。Theywereinalittlestablewithapartitionthroughthemiddleofit——onehorseineachapartment。Mr。L。examinedoneofthemcriticallythroughawindow(theKanaka"s“brother“havinggonetothecountrywiththekey)，andthenwentaroundthehouseandexaminedtheotherthroughawindowontheotherside。Hesaiditwastheneatestmatchhehadeverseen，andpaidforthehorsesonthespot。WhereupontheKanakadepartedtojoinhisbrotherinthecountry。ThefellowhadshamefullyswindledL。Therewasonlyone“match“horse，andhehadexaminedhisstarboardsidethroughonewindowandhisportsidethroughanother！Ideclinetobelievethisstory，butIgiveitbecauseitisworthsomethingasafancifulillustrationofafixedfact——namely，thattheKanakahorse-

jockeyisfertileininventionandelasticinconscience。

Youcanbuyaprettygoodhorseforfortyorfiftydollars，andagoodenoughhorseforallpracticalpurposesfortwodollarsandahalf。I

estimate“Oahu“tobeworthsomewhereintheneighborhoodofthirty-fivecents。Agooddealbetteranimalthanheiswassoldheredaybeforeyesterdayforadollarandseventy-fivecents，andsoldagainto-dayfortwodollarsandtwenty-fivecents；Williamsboughtahandsomeandlivelylittleponyyesterdayfortendollars；andaboutthebestcommonhorseontheisland(andheisareallygoodone)soldyesterday，withMexicansaddleandbridle，forseventydollars——ahorsewhichiswellandwidelyknown，andgreatlyrespectedforhisspeed，gooddispositionandeverlastingbottom。

Yougiveyourhorsealittlegrainonceaday；itcomesfromSanFrancisco，andisworthabouttwocentsapound；andyougivehimasmuchhayashewants；itiscutandbroughttothemarketbynatives，andisnotverygooditisbaledintolong，roundbundles，aboutthesizeofalargeman；oneofthemisstuckbythemiddleoneachendofasixfootpole，andtheKanakashouldersthepoleandwalksaboutthestreetsbetweentheuprightbalesinsearchofcustomers。Thesehaybales，thuscarried，haveageneralresemblancetoacolossalcapital"H。"

Thehay-bundlescosttwenty-fivecentsapiece，andonewilllastahorseaboutaday。Youcangetahorseforasong，aweek"shayforanothersong，andyoucanturnyouranimallooseamongtheluxuriantgrassinyourneighbor"sbroadfrontyardwithoutasongatall——youdoitatmidnight，andstablethebeastagainbeforemorning。Youhavebeenatnoexpensethusfar，butwhenyoucometobuyasaddleandbridletheywillcostyoufromtwentytothirty-fivedollars。Youcanhireahorse，saddleandbridleatfromseventotendollarsaweek，andtheownerwilltakecareofthemathisownexpense。

Itistimetoclosethisday"srecord——bedtime。AsIprepareforsleep，arichvoicerisesoutofthestillnight，and，farasthisoceanrockistowardtheendsoftheearth，Irecognizeafamiliarhomeair。Butthewordsseemsomewhatoutofjoint:

“WaikikilantonioeKaahoolyhoolywawhoo。”

Translated，thatmeans“WhenweweremarchingthroughGeorgia。”

CHAPTERLXVI。

PassingthroughthemarketplacewesawthatfeatureofHonoluluunderitsmostfavorableauspices——thatis，inthefullgloryofSaturdayafternoon，whichisafestivedaywiththenatives。Thenativegirlsbytwosandthreesandpartiesofadozen，andsometimesinwholeplatoonsandcompanies，wentcanteringupanddowntheneighboringstreetsastrideoffleetbuthomelyhorses，andwiththeirgaudyridinghabitsstreaminglikebannersbehindthem。Suchatroopoffreeandeasyriders，intheirnaturalhome，thesaddle，makesagayandgracefulspectacle。TheridinghabitIspeakofissimplyalong，broadscarf，likeataverntableclothbrilliantlycolored，wrappedaroundtheloinsonce，thenapparentlypassedbetweenthelimbsandeachendthrownbackwardoverthesame，andfloatingandflappingbehindonbothsidesbeyondthehorse"staillikeacoupleoffancyflags；then，slippingthestirrup-ironsbetweenhertoes，thegirlthrowsherchestforward，sitsuplikeaMajorGeneralandgoessweepingbylikethewind。

ThegirlsputonallthefinerytheycanonSaturdayafternoon——fineblacksilkrobes；flowingredonesthatnearlyputyoureyesout；othersaswhiteassnow；stillothersthatdiscounttherainbow；andtheyweartheirhairinnets，andtrimtheirjauntyhatswithfreshflowers，andencircletheirduskythroatswithhome-madenecklacesofthebrilliantvermillion-tintedblossomoftheohia；andtheyfillthemarketsandtheadjacentstreetwiththeirbrightpresences，andsmelllikearagfactoryonfirewiththeiroffensivecocoanutoil。

OccasionallyyouseeaheathenfromthesunnyislesawaydownintheSouthSeas，withhisfaceandnecktatooedtillhelookslikethecustomarymendicantfromWashoewhohasbeenblownupinamine。Somearetattooedadeadbluecolordowntotheupperlip——masked，asitwere——leavingthenaturallightyellowskinofMicronesiaunstainedfromthencedown；somewithbroadmarksdrawndownfromhairtoneck，onbothsidesoftheface，andastripoftheoriginalyellowskin，twoincheswide，downthecenter——agridironwithaspokebrokenout；andsomewiththeentirefacediscoloredwiththepopularmortificationtint，relievedonlybyoneortwothin，wavythreadsofnaturalyellowrunningacrossthefacefromeartoear，andeyestwinklingoutofthisdarkness，fromundershadowinghat-brims，likestarsinthedarkofthemoon。

Movingamongthestirringcrowds，youcometothepoimerchants，squattingintheshadeontheirhams，intruenativefashion，andsurroundedbypurchasers。(TheSandwichIslandersalwayssquatontheirhams，andwhoknowsbuttheymaybetheoldoriginal“hamsandwiches?“

Thethoughtispregnantwithinterest。)Thepoilookslikecommonflourpaste，andiskeptinlargebowlsformedofaspeciesofgourd，andcapableofholdingfromonetothreeorfourgallons。Poiisthechiefarticleoffoodamongthenatives，andispreparedfromthetaroplant。

Thetarorootlookslikeathick，or，ifyouplease，acorpulentsweetpotato，inshape，butisofalightpurplecolorwhenboiled。Whenboileditanswersasapassablesubstituteforbread。ThebuckKanakasbakeitunderground，thenmashitupwellwithaheavylavapestle，mixwaterwithituntilitbecomesapaste，setitasideandletifferment，andthenitispoi——andanunseductivemixtureitis，almosttastelessbeforeitfermentsandtoosourforaluxuryafterward。Butnothingismorenutritious。Whensolelyused，however，itproducesacridhumors，afactwhichsufficientlyaccountsforthehumorouscharacteroftheKanakas。Ithinktheremustbeasmuchofaknackinhandlingpoiasthereisineatingwithchopsticks。Theforefingeristhrustintothemessandstirredquicklyroundseveraltimesanddrawnasquicklyout，thicklycoated，justasititwerepoulticed；theheadisthrownback，thefingerinsertedinthemouthandthedelicacystrippedoffandswallowed——theeyeclosinggently，meanwhile，inalanguidsortofecstasy。Manyadifferentfingergoesintothesamebowlandmanyadifferentkindofdirtandshadeandqualityofflavorisaddedtothevirtuesofitscontents。

Aroundasmallshantywascollectedacrowdofnativesbuyingtheawaroot。Itissaidthatbutfortheuseofthisrootthedestructionofthepeopleinformertimesbycertainimporteddiseaseswouldhavebeenfargreaterthanitwas，andbyothersitissaidthatthisismerelyafancy。Allagreethatpoiwillrejuvenateamanwhoisusedupandhisvitalityalmostannihilatedbyharddrinking，andthatinsomekindsofdiseasesitwillrestorehealthafterallmedicineshavefailed；butallarenotwillingtoallowtotheawathevirtuesclaimedforit。Thenativesmanufactureanintoxicatingdrinkfromitwhichisfearfulinitseffectswhenpersistentlyindulgedin。Itcoversthebodywithdry，whitescales，inflamestheeyes，andcausesprematuredecripitude。

AlthoughthemanbeforewhoseestablishmentwestoppedhastopayaGovernmentlicenseofeighthundreddollarsayearfortheexclusiverighttosellawaroot，itissaidthathemakesasmallfortuneeverytwelve-month；whilesaloonkeepers，whopayathousanddollarsayearfortheprivilegeofretailingwhiskey，etc。，onlymakeabareliving。

Wefoundthefishmarketcrowded；forthenativeisveryfondoffish，andeatsthearticlerawandalive！Letuschangethesubject。

InoldtimeshereSaturdaywasagrandgaladayindeed。Allthenativepopulationofthetownforsooktheirlabors，andthoseofthesurroundingcountryjourneyedtothecity。Thenthewhitefolkshadtostayindoors，foreverystreetwassopackedwithchargingcavaliersandcavalieressesthatitwasnexttoimpossibletothreadone"swaythroughthecavalcadeswithoutgettingcrippled。

Atnighttheyfeastedandthegirlsdancedthelascivioushulahula——adancethatissaidtoexhibittheveryperfectionofeducatednotionoflimbandarm，hand，headandbody，andtheexactestuniformityofmovementandaccuracyof“time。”Itwasperformedbyacircleofgirlswithnoraimentonthemtospeakof，whowentthroughaninfinitevarietyofmotionsandfigureswithoutprompting，andyetsotruewastheir“time，“andinsuchperfectconcertdidtheymovethatwhentheywereplacedinastraightline，hands，arms，bodies，limbsandheadswaved，swayed，gesticulated，bowed，stooped，whirled，squirmed，twistedandundulatedasiftheywerepartandparcelofasingleindividual；anditwasdifficulttobelievetheywerenotmovedinabodybysomeexquisitepieceofmechanism。

Oflateyears，however，Saturdayhaslostmostofitsquondamgalafeatures。Thisweeklystampedeofthenativesinterferedtoomuchwithlaborandtheinterestsofthewhitefolks，andbystickinginalawhere，andpreachingasermonthere，andbyvariousothermeans，theygraduallybrokeitup。Thedemoralizinghulahulawasforbiddentobeperformed，saveatnight，withcloseddoors，inpresenceoffewspectators，andonlybypermissiondulyprocuredfromtheauthoritiesandthepaymentoftendollarsforthesame。Therearefewgirlsnow-a-daysabletodancethisancientnationaldanceinthehighestperfectionoftheart。

Themissionarieshavechristianizedandeducatedallthenatives。TheyallbelongtotheChurch，andthereisnotoneofthem，abovetheageofeightyears，butcanreadandwritewithfacilityinthenativetongue。

ItisthemostuniversallyeducatedraceofpeopleoutsideofChina。

Theyhaveanyquantityofbooks，printedintheKanakalanguage，andallthenativesarefondofreading。Theyareinveteratechurch-goers——

nothingcankeepthemaway。Allthisamelioratingcultivationhasatlastbuiltupinthenativewomenaprofoundrespectforchastity——inotherpeople。Perhapsthatisenoughtosayonthathead。Thenationalsinwilldieoutwhentheracedoes，butperhapsnotearlier——Butdoubtlessthispurifyingisnotfaroff，whenwereflectthatcontactwithcivilizationandthewhiteshasreducedthenativepopulationfromfourhundredthousand(CaptainCook"sestimate，)tofifty-fivethousandinsomethingovereightyyears！

Societyisaqueermedleyinthisnotablemissionary，whalingandgovernmentalcentre。Ifyougetintoconversationwithastrangerandexperiencethatnaturaldesiretoknowwhatsortofgroundyouaretreadingonbyfindingoutwhatmannerofmanyourstrangeris，strikeoutboldlyandaddresshimas“Captain。”Watchhimnarrowly，andifyouseebyhiscountenancethatyouareonthewrongtack，askhimwherehepreaches。Itisasafebetthatheiseitheramissionaryorcaptainofawhaler。Iamnowpersonallyacquaintedwithseventy-twocaptainsandninety-sixmissionaries。Thecaptainsandministersformone-halfofthepopulation；thethirdfourthiscomposedofcommonKanakasandmercantileforeignersandtheirfamilies，andthefinalfourthismadeupofhighofficersoftheHawaiianGovernment。Andtherearejustaboutcatsenoughforthreeapieceallaround。