第5章

Thetombsareeasilydistinguishedfromthecave-dwellingswithwhichtherocksareperforated，astheyaremerelychambersofafewfeetsquaresufficientforthereceptionofalimitednumberofbodies；thedwellingshavebeencarefullychiselled，andarrangedwithabenchcutfromthesolidrockaroundtheapartment。

Theremainsofancientfortifications，includingruinedtowersandditches，provethatinformertimesKyreniawasoffargreaterextentthanwouldbeimpliedbyitspresentsmallproportions。InlikemannerwithFamagoustathispowerfulforthasbeenconsideredasapositiontobeoccupiedexclusivelybyTurks。Thepopulationofthetownisnowabout600，buttheGreekelementisincreasingsincetheBritishConventionensuredtheirprotection。

OurcampwasdailyvisitedbythewomenofbothTurksandCypriotes，whocametoindulgetheircuriosity，andmywifehadsomedifficultyinreceivingtheincreasingcircleofacquaintance。Thewantofafemaleinterpreterwasatfirstacutelyfelt，astheconversationwasmuchrestrictedwhenGeorgiwastheonlymedium。AfterafewdaysthisshynessonthepartoftheTurkishladiesworeoff，andGeorgi，whowasagood，painstakingyoungfellow，becameafavourite；someoftheseladieswereexceedinglygracious，andtookofftheirveilswheninthetentwithLadyBakerandmyself，andconverseduponvarioussubjectswithmuchintelligence。Afewweredecidedlypretty；allwerestudiouslycleanandwelldressed，andtheyformedamarkedcontrastinappearanceandgeneralstyletotheCypriotewomen；thebreedwassuperior，theirhandsweredelicateandwellcaredfor，butdisfiguredbytheprevalenthabitofstainingthenailsandpalmswithhenna。ThisplantiscalledshennabyallTurksandCypriotes，anditisimportedfromSyriaforthepurposeofdyeingthehair，andalsothefeetandhandsofTurkishwomen。ItisnotaproductionofCyprus，ashasbeenerroneouslystatedbysomeauthors；Imadeparticularinquiriesinallportionsoftheisland，andofallclasses，uponthissubject。Thehenna，orshenna，isonlytobemetwithinsomefewgardens，whereitiscultivatedasanornamentalshrub，inthesamemannerthatthearbutusmaybeseenintheshrubberiesofEngland。TheTurkishwomenareveryparticularindyeingtheirhair，andusevariouspreparations。Theshennaproducesaglossyred，whichsomeyearsagowasthefashionabletingeinEngland。Thereisalsoasmallseedofaplantwhichispreparedbyroastinguntilburnt，likecoffee，andthenreducingtopowder，whichisformedintoapastewithoil；thisisawell-knowndye，whichturnsthehairintoadeepblack。TherewasasuddenrushforinformationwhentheBritishoccupationofCypruswasannouncedtothestartledpublic，andbookswereratherhurriedlyputtogether，compiledfromvariousauthorities，which，althoughyieldingvaluableinformationuponmanypoints，unfortunatelyperpetuatederrorsbyreproducingerroneousstatements。

Theassertedexistenceofhennaas“anindigenousshrubwhichoriginatedthenameofCyprus，“isaninstanceofsuchmistakes，similartothedescriptionsof“HEATH-coveredsurface，“whennosuchplantexistsupontheisland。

ThelongerIremainedintheneighbourhoodofKyreniathedeeperwasmyregretthatthearrivalsofstrangersshouldtakeplaceinthesouthernports，insteadofreceivingtheirfirstimpressionsofCyprusbyanintroductiontothislovelycoast。Iwasneverafloatonthenorthernside，buttheviewmustbestrikinglyimpressive，asthetrees，evergreenalmosttothewater"sedge，shadowtherockycoves，andclothethesurfacetothebaseofthemountains，whilst，atashortdistancefromthelandthesemustappearasthoughrisingabruptlyfromthesea。Thecastlesupontheextremesummitsformunmistakablelandmarks，resemblingsentriesoneithersidethefortandharbourofKyrenia。

On6thAprilthegeneralrendezvouswasthemonasteryofBellapais，threeandahalfmilesdistantfromKyrenia，inresponsetotheinvitationofMajorMcCalmont，7thHussars，onthestaffofSirGarnetWolseley，whohadtakenimmensetroubleforthegratificationofhisguestsbysendingtents，baggage，andsleepingaccommodationfortwonights，inadditiontoeverykindofnecessaryrefreshments。

TheroutefromKyrenialaythroughacountryofthebrightestshadesofgreen，parallelwiththesea，aboutamileandahalfdistant，towardswhichasuccessionofdeepravines，whichformedriver-bedsintherainyseason，drainedfromthemountainsatrightangleswiththepath。ThissideoftheCarpasrangeformedastrongcontrastwiththeparchedsouthernslopes，aseverygardenandfarmwasirrigatedbywaterconductedfromthemountainsinartificialchannels，whichwouldotherwisehavebeenabsorbedandlostinthewideandstonystream-bedsiflefttoitsnaturalcourse。Wepassedthroughsombregrovesofveryancientolivesofimmensegirth；thenthroughvillagesconcealedamongaluxuriantgrowthoffruit-trees，thealmondsbeingalreadylarge，andeateneagerlybytheinhabitants，althoughstillunripe。Theorangesinheavycropsweigheddownthedarkgreenbranches，thedeepyellowfruitcontrastingbrightlywiththefoliage，andthefieldsofbarleythathadbenefitedbyartificialirrigationlookedlikegreencarpetsspreadbetweentheneighbouringvillagesandgardens。Havingcrossedseveraldeepandwidestream-beds，inoneofwhichthewaterstilltrickledinaclearbutnarrowchannel，wecommencedasteepascentamongscatteredbutnumerouscaroub-trees，whichgaveapark-likeappearancetothecountry，andupongaininganeminencewecamesuddenlyupontheviewofBellapais。Themonasterywasnotmorethan600yardsdistant，butadeephollowintervenedbetweentheopposingheights，whichnecessitatedacircuitofmorethanamilebeforewecouldreachthevillage。Itwouldbeimpossibletoselectamorebeautifulpositionforahousethantheflatsummitoftheheightuponwhichwestood。Thevalleyatourfeetnursedaripplingstreamdeepinthebottomofaprecipitousgorge，theroughsidesclothedwithmyrtles，whichnowoccupiedbasket-makerswhowerecompletingtheirworkuponthespotwheretheycuttheirwandsofthistoughwoodinlieuofwillow。ThefineoldGothicbuildingstoodbeforeusontheoppositeheightupontheextremeedge，surroundedbytreesofvariouskinds，includingtallpoplarswhichunfortunatelywerenotyetinleaf。Thisgrandoldpilewasanimpressivecontrasttothescenearound；therewereneatvillageswithflat-toppedroofsofclay，downinthevalefarbeneath，withtheintenseblueseawashingtherockyshore：therewasalsotheadjoiningvillageattherear，occupyingthesameplateauasthemonastery，withitsrichgardensandgrovesoforange-trees；theruinedwallsandtowersofBuffaventouponthehighestcragsdominatedourpositionbymorethan2，500feet，andthecastleofSt。Hilarionstooduponastillhigherelevationonthewesternsky-linebehindKyrenia。TherewasnothingmodernthatappearedcompatiblewiththestyleandgrandeurofBellapais。Whenthismonasterywaserected，Cyprusmusthavebeenaflourishingandpopulouscountryworthyofsucharchitecture，butthepresentsurroundings，althoughharmonisingincolouring，andinaquietpassivenessofscene，innowaysuggestedaconnectionwithapastthatgavebirtheithertotheGothicbuildingortotheimportantcastlesofBuffaventoandSt。Hilarion。

Havingskirtedtheamphitheatreuponthemonasterylevel，wepassedthroughanorange-gardenandenteredthecourtyard。Thechurchoccupiestherightside，andthewallisfrontedbycloisterswhich，supporteduponarches，formaquadrangle。Astonestaircaseascendsfromthecloisterstotherefectoryupontheleft；thisisinconsiderableruin，butmustoriginallyhaveformedanimposinghall。Upontheflatroofofthecloisters，whichisperfectforthreesidesofthequadrangle，amagnificentviewisobtainedthroughthefineoldGothicopenwindow，whichlooksdownsheertothegreatdepthbelow，andcommandstheentirecountryseaward。Descendingintothecourtyardtothenortherncloisterwepasstwolargesarcophagiofwhitemarble。Oneofthesehasbeenelaboratelyworkedinrichgarlandsofflowersandverygrandbulls"

heads，togetherwithnudefigures，allofwhichhavebeenmuchdamaged。

Thesesarcophagihavebeenusedascisternsforcontainingwater，asthetapisstillvisible。Immediatelyoppositeistheentrancetothegreathall，whichisingoodrepair，asanewcementfloorwasaddedbytheBritishauthorities，withtheintentionofconvertingitintoatemporaryhospitalwhenthetroopsweresufferingfromfeveratKyrenia。

Thishallis102feetlongand33feetwide，withaheightofupwardsof30feet。Nothingcanexceedthebeautyoftheviewfromthewindowsofthisgrandentrance，andinthedeeprecesseswefoundSirGarnetandLadyWolseleyenjoyingthescene，whileourhost，MajorMcCalmont，welcomedhisguestsinthissplendidvestigeoftheKnightsTemplars。

Theabbey，whichbelongedtotheLatinChurch，wasbuiltduringtheLusignandynastybyHughIII。inabout1280A。D。andwasdestroyedbytheTurks。ThecastleofBuffavento，uponthesummitofthemountain，3240feetabovethesea，isoffarmoreancientdate，andisinterestingfromthefactofitshavingduringtheconquestbyRichardCoeurdeLionsuccumbedtotheassaultconductedinpersonbythatking。ThecastleofKyreniahadalreadyfallen，andthewife，daughter，andtreasuresofIsaacComnenusfellintothehandsofthevictoriousEnglish，ledbythegallantGuydeLusignanintheabsenceofRichardI。，whowasatthattimeincapacitatedthroughillness，whichdetainedhimatLefkosia。Thisfortificationwasprobablytheoriginaldefenceofthetown，andcouldhavehadnorelationtothepresentwork，whichisofafarlaterdate，andwasconstructedspeciallyforanarmamentofheavyguns。

CaptainSavile(101stRoyalIrish)，inhisadmirablecompilationfromalltheprincipalworksthathavebeenwrittenuponCyprus，states：——

“Richardwasnowabletoturnhisthoughtstohisneglectedcrusade；hereturnedtoLimasol，andsentIsaac"sdaughter，withhisownwifeandsister，onbeforehimtoSt。Jeand"Acre。On5thJune，1191，RichardhimselfsailedfromCyprus，leavingtheislandinchargeofRicharddeCanvilleandRobertdeTurnham，withinjunctionstokeepthearmyinSyriawellprovidedwithprovisions。

“IsaacwasplacedinsilverfettersandtakenwithKingRichardtoSyria，wherehewashandedovertotheHospitallers，sinceKnightsofRhodes，forsafecustody，andwasbythemconfinedintheCastleofMargat，nearTripoli，wherehediedshortlyafterwards。

“SeveralinsurrectionssubsequentlyoccurredinCyprus，butwereallsuppressedbythedecisiveandpromptactionofRobertdeTurnham。

“TheTemplarsnowenteredintonegotiationswithKingRichardforthepurchaseofCyprus，andtheyeventuallyobtaineditfromhimforthesumof100，000

Saracenicgoldenbesants；itwasfurtherarrangedthat40，000goldenbesantsshouldbepaidatonce，andtheremainderassoonasitcouldbederivedfromtherevenuesoftheisland。“

Accordingtoahighauthority，DeMasLatrie(seeL"Histoiredel"IledeChypre，vol。ii。p。7)，theabovesumwouldnowrepresentabout304，000

poundssterling。

RichardhadatonceappreciatedtheimportanceofCyprusasabaseofoperationsthatwouldsecureasupplyofprovisionswithintwodays"

sailofhissalientpointofattack，andtowhichhecouldretreatintheeventoffailure。Thegeographicalpositionremainsthesame，butunfortunatelyCyprusisnolongercapableoffurnishingsuppliesforalargearmy，andthehaynecessaryforthecavalrywasobligedtobeimportedatgreatcostimmediatelyupontheBritishoccupationin1878。

TheTemplarsquicklybecamedisgustedwiththeirbargain，andafteronlytenmonths"rule，duringwhichtheislandwasinastateofchronicrevolt，theyendeavouredtopersuadeKingRichardtocanceltheagreementofpurchase。

CaptainSavilecontinues：——

“Richardexpressedhiswillingnesstotakeovertheisland，butrefusedtoreturnthe40，000besants。

KingGuydeLusignannowcameforward，andhavingarrangedwiththeTemplarsthatintheeventofhisbeingmadekingofCyprushewouldrefundtothemwhattheyhadpaid，wenttoRichardandaskedhimfortheislandascompensationforthelossofthecrownofJerusalem，engagingalsotopaythesamesumthattheTemplarshadagreedto。Thisofferwasaccepted，andGuyintrustedtohisChancellor，Pierred"Engoulesme，BishopofTripoli，thetaskofraisingthemoney。Thesumof60，000besantswascollectedbymeansofloansfromthecitizensofTripoliandfromtheGenoese，andwaspaidbyGuytoRichard，whoaskedfortheremaining40，000besants；

butGuythenpleadedpoverty，anditisstatedthattheEnglishkingdidnoturgethisclaimfurther。“

GuydeLusignanatoncetookpossessionoftheisland(May1192)，butitappears，accordingtoDeMasLatrie，thatheneveractuallyassumedthetitleofKingofCyprus。Hisreignwasbutshort，lastingonlyoneyearandelevenmonths；butfromallaccountshegovernedwisely，andrestoredorderandtranquillityintheisland。Oneofhisfirstmeasureswastheestablishmentofafeudalsystem，andheendowedwithportionsofland，accordingtorank，about300knightsand200esquires，whoformedthenucleusofthenobilityandprivilegedbodiesinCyprus。

TheLusignandynastythuscommencedin1192，continueduntil1489，andterminatedwithQueenCatherineCornaro，whenCypruswasannexedbytheVenetianRepublic。

IdidnotascendtothecastleofBuffavento，whichtoweredabovethemonasteryabouttwomilesdistant，butIobservedwiththetelescopethateveryinchofgroundthatcouldbecultivatedwasgreenwithbarley，eventoextremeheightswhichappearedinaccessible。Smallterraceshadbeenarrangedbyheapingupstonesamongthenumerousdeclivitiestosavethesoilfromfallingbelow，andtocatchthewashthatmightbeaddedbysomepassingshower。Thiswastheresultofenormouslabour，fardisproportionedtothevalueofthecrops；yetinthefaceofthisperilousindustrytherearepersonswhodeclarethattheCypriotesareanidlerace，andthat“landexistsinsuperabundantacreagesufficientfordoubletheamountofpopulation。“IfthistheoryiscorrecttheCypriotes，whoclimbtothesedizzyheightstobuildsomewallsamongtheprecipicesthatwillactasanagriculturaltraptocatchsomefewsquareyardsofsoil，mustbesimplymadmen；butIhavenotfoundthemwantingeitherinbrainsorindustrywhenworkingindependentlyfortheirownprofit；wheretheyarepositivelywanting，isinreadymoney。Allstrangerswhotakeaninterestinagriculturemustbestruckwiththeextraordinarypainstakenbythenativestosavethesoilfromwater-wash，towhichIhavealreadyalluded；butthispeculiarityisthemorestrikingwhenweobservethedangerouspositionstowhichtheyhavebeendrivenbyadesiretoincreasetheirlands。

InaridefromourcamptoSt。HilarionIcarefullyremarkedthroughouttheextremelyruggednatureoftheroutethatnoplot，howeverminute，hadbeenneglected。Inonerockynookburiedamongthecliffswasalittlecottage，withhanginggardensallterracedbyexceedinglyhighwalls，yetaffordingthesmallestsuperficialareaforcultivation。Thisisdiscerniblewithapowerfultelescopefromthebaseofthemountains，althoughtothenakedeyeitappearslikeaclusterofbarrenrocks，tingedwiththegreenoffruit-treesgrowingfromtheclefts。Ifsuchlabourhadbeenexpendedtoproduceapicturesqueeffecttheobjectmightbeappreciated，butthatitshouldbeprofitableisbeyondbelief。

ThesummitofSt。Hilarionis3340feetabovethesea，fromwhich，inadirectline，itisnotthreemilesdistant。Thecliffsarequiteperpendicularinsomeplacesforseveralhundredfeet，andthegreatestcarehasbeentakentoperchthetowersandwallsupontheextremeverge。AlthoughfromthebaseofthemountainsatKyreniathecastleappearstooccupyanimpregnableposition，itcanbeeasilyapproachedbyoneofthoseroughpathsintherearwhichcanbescrambledoverbytheCyprianmules。Iamafraidthatmywillinganimalgrumbledsomewhatatmyweight，asitwasobligedtohaltforbreathsevenoreighttimesbeforewereachedasecludedlittledellamongthemountaintops，fromwhichthepathascendedbysteepzigzags，directlythroughtheentranceoftheoldfortification。Thisnarrowdell，hiddenamongthesurroundingcragsabout2800feetabovethesea，wasentirelycroppedwithbarley，andthepeoplewhoownedtheplotresidedinacavethathadbeenarrangedforahabitationforthemselvesandanimals。

Ontheridgebeforewedescendedintothisvaletheviewwasmagnificent，astwoloftycragsformedanaturalframeforthepicturewithin。Betweentheseruggedpeaksofsilverygreylimestone，tintedbyferruginousrockswithvariousshadesofredandbrown，welookeddownaprecipicebeneathourfeetuponthebluesea，thesnow-cappedmountainsofCaramaniainthedistance，andtherichborderofourownshorescoveredwithgreentrees，gardens，fields，andclusteringvillages：inthecentreofwhichwasthefortandharbourofKyrenia。Icouldjustdistinguishourwhitetentsamongthecaroub-treesfarbeneath。Tocompletethissuperblandscapethereshouldhavebeenafewsailsuponthesea；butallwasblueandbarren，withoutsignsoflife。ThecastleofSt。Hilarionstoodbeforeusontheleftaswefacedthesea，andthetowersoccupiedthepeakswithinlessthanaquarterofamileofourposition。Continuingalongthenarrowvale，amountain-topuponourleft-hand，whichslopedtothepathuponwhichwerode，appearedslightlyhigherthantheextremesummitofthecastlepeak；thesidesofthissteepslopewerecoveredwithdwarfcypressandoccasionalyoungpines，anditwasclearthatSt。Hilarionwouldbecommandedbyabatteryupontheseheights，orevenbythefireofmodernrifles。

Ascendingthezigzagpathamongblocksoffallenstone，whichhadrolledfromthepartiallydismantledwalls，weenteredthegateway，andatonceperceivedthegreatextentoftheoldfortress。Theentiremountain-topisencircledbyahighwall，flankedatintervalsbytowers，andcrenellatedforarchersorcross-bowmen。Althoughtheoppositemountainwouldbyartilleryfirecompletelycommandtheinnerandlowerportionoftheworks，whichwehadnowentered，thedistancewouldhavebeenfarbeyondtherangeofcatapultsorarrowsatthetimewhenthedefenceswereerected。Theerrorappearedtohavebeeninthegreatareaofthefortifications，whichwouldhavenecessitatedagarrisonofatleast4000men，entailingalargesupplyofprovisionsandofwater。Therewasnotraceofawellthroughouttheworks，butIobservedtheremainsofwater-pipesinnumerousdirections，whichappearedtohaveconductedtherainfallintoreservoirs。Thenearestwaterwasbythecaves，occupiedbythepeasantsintheglen，aboutaquarterofamiledistant。Nothingwouldhavebeeneasierthananinvestment，whichwouldsoonerorlaterhavereducedthegarrisontostarvation，astheprecipicesuponthenorth，west，andeast，whichrenderedthepositionimpregnablefromthosedirections，atthesametimepreventedanexit，andeffectuallybarredallegresseitherforsortiesorescape。Thefirstcourtuponenteringthegatewaycomprisedseveralacres，buttherewasnolevelground，andthenaturalslopeofthemountainwasinclosedbywallsandparapetsuponallsides，untilatconvenientplacestheearthhadbeenscarpedoutfortheerectionofbuildings，whichhadeitherbeenbarracksormagazines。Thesewereallofstoneandhardcement，andwerenowusedasstablesforvariousanimalsbythefewpeasantsofthiswildneighbourhood。Passingthroughgalleries，fromwhichanoccasionalwindowshowedadeepchasmofmanyhundredfeetbeneath，andcontinuinguntilweenteredatowerwhichterminatedthepassageuponaperpendicularpeakthatenfiladedtheouterlineofdefence，andatthesametimefromitsgreatheightcommandedthemainapproach，wedescendedarudeflightofsteps，andpresentlyenteredagrandhallsupporteduponnumerousarcheswhichappearedtoconnecttwopeaksofthemountain。Descendingfromthissolidwork，weentereduponaplotofgrasswhichslopedtowardsaprecipiceofrockthatcompletelyclosedthissideofthefortress。Severalcypress-treesgrewamongthestones，whichassistedusinascendingfromthissteepanddangerousslope，untilbyapassagewhichledintoaquadrangularcourtyardofgrassweemergedintoanimposingportionoftheruinwhichcommandedthewestface。Thiswasawallbuiltupontheextremeedgeofaprecipice，whichlookeddownagiddydepth，andaffordedalovelyviewlengthwaysofthenarrowstripofcaroub-forestandverdurealongthemountainrangetothemarginofthesea。Theguidekneweveryinchoftheselabyrinth-likeworks，anduponmyexpressingadesiretoascendtotheearthonthesummit，hecommencedascrambleoverloosestones，largerocks，andoccasionalslipperygrass，holdingontothenownumerousdwarf-cypress，untilwereachedanarrowsaddleofthepeak，overwhichamancouldsitastrideandlookdowntotherightandleftintothedepthbelow。Itwasnecessarytocrossthissaddleforabouttenortwelvefeettogainthewiderpathwayformedbythenaturalrock，whichwasterminatedafterafewyardsbythecastletower。This，asmaybeimagined，wasbuiltupontheverge，andformedanartificialpeaktotheprecipicesuponallsides。Theviewwassuperb，asitcommandedapanoramaofmountains，valleys，thesea，precipices，andallthatcouldmakeaperfectlandscape。

Sittingdowntorestuponthesolidrockupontheleftofthiscastleentrance，Iobservedthatitwascomposedofwhitemarble。Theexteriorhadagreyishcoatingfromtheactionoftheweather，butthiscouldbescrapedoffwithaknife，whichexposedthewhitemarblebeneath。I

remarkedthatthecementofthemasonrywasmixedwithsmallfragmentsofthesamematerial，andsubsequentlyIdiscoveredblocksofthissubstanceintheimmediateneighbourhoodofKyrenia。

TherewasapeculiarityinthewallsandtowersofthefortressofSt。

Hilarion：thestoneswereofsuchsmalldimensionsthatfewexceededfortyorfiftypoundsinweight，exceptthosewhichformedtheprincipalhallsorotherbuildingsuponthesecureplateauxwithintheouterworks。Themasonshadapparentlydependedupontheextremetenacityandhardnessoftheircement，whichboundthemassintoasolidblock。UponacloseexaminationIdiscoveredthereason。Asthetowersandmanyofthewallswerebuiltupontheextremeedgeofvariousprecipices，itwouldhavebeenimpossibletohaveerectedascaffoldingontheoutside，intheabsenceofwhichitwouldhavebeendifficulttohaveraisedheavyweights；thebuilderswerethereforeobligedtolimitthesizeofstonestothepowerofindividuals，whowouldbeobligedtosupplythematerialbythesimplehandingofsinglestonesastheworkproceeded。

Bythiscrudesystemthemasonwouldstanduponhisownwallandreceivethestonesashisworkgrewinheight。

Theoriginanddateofthisinterestingfortressareuncertain，butitisknownthat，likeothereagle-nestsuponthiscraggyrange，itformedaplaceofrefugetosomeoftheLatinkingsofCyprus。AsinancienttimestheportofKyreniahadbeenanobjectoffrequentattacks，theloftyfortressesofSt。HilarionandBuffaventoofferedimmediateasylumsintheeventofaretreatfromtheinvadedharbour。Incloseproximitytotheseatheseelevatedpostscommandedanextendedview，andtheapproachofanenemycouldbediscernedatadistancethatwouldaffordamplewarningforpreparingadefence。BothSt。HilarionandothermountainstrongholdsuponthisrangeweredismantledbytheVenetianAdmiralPrioliaboutA。D。1490，shortlyaftertheannexationoftheislandbyVenice。

Thereturnridedownthemountainsidewas，ifpossible，morebeautifulthantheascent，asthelightsandshadowswererenderedacutebydarkbutquicklypassingclouds；occasionallightmistscurledroundthehighestpeakslikeveilsofgauzeandthendissolvedintheclearair。

Theseatmosphericalchangesintensifiedthecolouringandbroughtoutthevaryingtintsofgreyandpurplerocksintoastrangeprominence，whileeverywildflowerappearedtothrustitselfsuddenlyintoobservation：thepurplecistusseemedmagnifiedtothesizeofroses，andabrightgleamofgoldfromthemassesofpricklybloomnowinfullestblazemingledwiththegeneralgreensurfaceofmasticandarbutus。Aswenearedthebaseofthemountainsthedarkgreenroundedtopsofaforestofcaroub-treeswereoccasionallybrokenbythewhitebloomofsweet-scentedhawthorns；andtothedelightofmyear，thefirstnotesofthecuckoothatIhadheardinCyprusrecalledthespringofEngland！Itisacuriousarrangementofournervoussystem，thatasoundsosimpleinitselfshouldinvestthescenewithatenfoldpleasure，andshouldconjureupuncalled-forrecollectionsofplaces，friends，andalifeofyearslongpast：butsoitwas；andforthemomentIlongedtobeathome……

Themulesandcamelswerereadytostartonthe10thApril。Ihadengagedawell-knownfine-lookingmuleteernamedKatarjiiIiani，whohadcontracted，fortwenty-nineshillingsaday，tosupplytheridingmulesandbaggageanimalssufficientforourpartyfromKyreniatoanyportionoftheislandImightwishtovisit。Myplanwasarranged，toincludeacircuitofthenorthandwesttoBaffo；thencetoLimasol；bywhichtimethehotweatherwouldbedrawingnear，andweshouldseekasettlementasnearthecloudsaspossibleuponTroodos；thesnowwasstilldeepuponthenorthernsummitofthismountain，whichformedtheprominentobjectintherange。

OurnewmuleteerIianiwasaboutsixfeettwoincheshigh，andnotbeingsufficientlytall，headdednearlythreeinchesmorebyenormousheelstoapairofwell-fittinghighboots；these，fastenedbelowtheknee，justshowedsufficientcleangreystockingtoprovethathepossessedsuchhose；whichareluxuriesseldomindulgedinbythepeasantry。Thebootswerecarefullyblackenedandpolished，andwerearmedwithlongspurs。Histrousersweretheusualroomypattern，containingsufficientstufftoclotheasmallfamilyofEnglishchildren；abovethesedark-bluebagsheworeakindofJerseyfrockofthicksilkfittingtighttohisfigure；thejunctionbetweenthispurple-stripedgarmentandhiswaistbandwasconcealedinthemanywindingsofalongshawlwhichpassedseveraltimesroundhiscentre；inthisheworeaGerman-silver-handledknifeordaggerofpureBirminghamorSheffieldorigin。Hisfigurewasveryperfect，andhewasasthoroughly“set-up“

asthoughhehadbeeninthehandsofadrill-sergeantfromhiscradle。

Hecarriedalongstickliketheshaftofalance，withwhichhecouldpokearefractorymule，butwhichhealwaysusedwhenmountingbyrestingoneendupontheground，andwiththelefthanduponthesaddleheascendedwiththeeaseofaspiritualist“floatingintheair。“Iianiwasverypolitetoladies，andheknewtheirways。Heseldomadvancedwithoutanofferingofsomelovelyflowerorasmallsprigofsweetly-scentedherb，whichheinvariablypresentedwithagracefulbowandasmileintendedtorepresentacombinationofhumility，amiability，gentility，andasmanyother“ilitys“ascouldbesqueezedintohisexpressivefeatures。ItishardlynecessaryafterthisdescriptiontosaythatIianiwasaverytallhumbug，pleasantinmannerwhenhehadhisownway。Hewaslazytosuchadegreethatheinvariablyfellasleepuponhismuleaftersmokinginnumerablecigarettes。Inthesecaseshislongbodyswayedtotherightandleft，andoccasionallynoddedforwardtoanextentthatsometimesawokehimwiththejerk；afterwhichspasmodicreturnofconsciousnessanimmediaterelapsetookplace，andhefellasleepagain。Asherodedirectlybeforeme，asguide，thischronicsomnolencywasmostannoying，andIhadtodrivehismuleintoafasterwalkbypokingitshind-quarterswithmystick。Theanimalwouldthenbreakintoasuddentrot，whichwouldawakentheridertothefactthathehadbeendreaming；uponwhichheburstintosomepeculiarsongthatwasintendedtoprovethathewaswideawake；butafterafewbarsthedittyceased；theheadoncemorenoddedandswungfromsidetoside；

themulerelaxeditspace……Iianiwasasleepagain！

Inanothersensehewasverywide-awake。Hehadrepresentedtomethathewastheproprietorofthesevencamelsandfivemules，butIquicklydiscoveredthathewasonlytheownerofacompletelyworn-outoldcamelandfourmules：hehadhiredtheotheranimalsataconsiderablylowerratethanIhadagreedtopayhim，thereforeIshouldhavethedifficultyofseveraldiscontentedownersinsteadofone。However，wehadstartedbeforethisfactwasexplainedbymyfactotumChristo。

Theroutelayalongthesea-shorethroughaforestofcaroub-treesandolives，occasionallyvariedbypatchesofcereals。Uponourrighttothesea-marginweretolerablecropsofbarley，mostofwhichhadbeenirrigatedbywaterconductedfromthehills。AtaboutfourmilesdistancefromKyreniathecaroubsandolivesofallgrowthsexhibitedtheeffectsofnorth-easterlygales，astheyinclinedtosouth-west；andthosenearesttothesea，whichactedasscreens，andreceivedthefullunbrokenforceofthewind，wereseriouslydamaged。AsweproceededtowardsLapithusthetreesbecamewidelyscattered，theslopesweresteeper，andthestripoflevelgroundtothesea-marginnarrowedtoonlyhalfamile。Themountainsroserapidlyfromthisbase，andanextradeeptingeofgreenshowedtheeffectofstreams，whichinthishappyspotofCyprusareperennial。Manylittlevillagesweredottedaboutthemountainsideswithgrovesofolivesandotherfruit-trees，whichappearedtobeindangerfromtheimpendingcliffs，hugemasseshavingfallenandrolledtovariousdistancesatthebottom。ThecountryremindedmeoftheprettiestportionsofSouthItaly。

AteightmilesfromKyreniawearrivedatthethrivingtownofKarava，builtuponthemountainslopeandwateredbypowerfulstreamsdivertedintoartificialchannelsfromtheparentbed。Thelargepopulationofthisneighbourhoodisprincipallyengagedintheproductionofsilk，forwhichthelocalityhaslongbeenfamous。Everygardenthatsurroundedthehouseswasrichinmulberry-trees，togetherwithorangesandlemonsandtheluxuriantfoliageofthealmond。Werodealongsteeppavedlaneswithinthetown，throughwhichthewaterwasrushinginrefreshingstreams，untilweatlengthreachedtheprecipitousedgeoftheravine，whichintherainyseasonbecomesanimportanttorrent。Althoughsomeflour-millsareworked，Iobservedaterriblewasteofwater-power，whichmightbeturnedtoaccountformachinery。Iheardtheusualexcuseforthisneglect，“Thepeoplehavenomoney！”

Wehadriddenfast，andwerefaraheadofthebaggageanimals；weaccordinglyhaltedtolunchbeneathashadycaroub-treeneartheedgeoftheravine，aboutfiftyfeetbelow。AFrenchgame-bag，withnetandnumerouspockets，alwayscontainedourmeals，whichconsistedofacoldfowl，someeggsboiledhard，andaloafofnativebrownbreadorbiscuits。Thiswasluncheonandbreakfast，asweneverindulgedinmorethantwomealsaday，merelytakingacupofcafeaulait，orcocoa，intheearlymorning，andourlunchorbreakfastatanyhourthattravellingmadeconvenient。Thisdependedupontheattractionofsomeprettyspotorwide-spreadingtreethatsuggestedahalt。

WenowremountedandrodetoLapithus，amileandahalfdistant，and，avoidingthetown，selectedacamping-placeontheflatgroundwithin300yardsofthesea。

TherewaslittledifferencebetweenLapithusandKarava。Asuccessionofmountainstreamsnourishedthehighergrounds，andhavingfertilisedthegardensandplotsofcereals，weresubsequentlyledintothefieldsbelow。

LapithushasbeencelebratedfromanancientdateinlikemannerwithKythrea，owingtotheunfailingsupplyofwaterfromitsmountain-springs，and，underthePtolemies，B。C。295，itbecameoneofthefourprovincesintowhichCypruswasdivided。Lapithus，north；

Amathus，south；Salamis，east；Paphos(nowBaffo)，west。

OnthefollowingmorningourmuleteerIiani，havingindulgedincigarettesandsleep，wasnotreadytostartattheproperhour，neitherweretheanimalsforth-coming。Weaccordinglystartedonfootandthreadedourwaythroughpavedlanes，whichtwistedandturnedinvariousdirectionsaccordingtothepositionsofthehousesandinnumerablegardens。Thepeoplewereverycivil，anddirectedusintherightdirection，althoughevidentlysurprisedatourjourneyingonfoot，whichismostunusualevenamongthepoorerclasses。Wewalkedformorethanamilethroughthetown：theairwasfreshandenjoyable，thethermometerwas53degreesat7A。M。Streamsofclearwatergushedthroughthelanesinmanyplaces，whichhadcreatedtheflourishingaspectaround。Withsuchapictureofprosperitybeforeus，dueentirelytothepresenceofnever-failingstreams，itseemedincrediblethatthegreatcentraldistrictofMessariashouldbelefttothechanceofseasonswhenthemeansofartificialirrigationlieclosebeneaththesurface。

UponquittingLapithusthecountryonthewestwasalmostdevoidoftrees，andwewalkedforfourmilesandahalfbeforewecouldprocureashade。Atthisdistancewehaltedtoawaitthemulesbeneathaclumpofthreecaroub-treesclosetotheroadside。Beneaththisgroupwereseveralmassesofrockwhichappearedtohaverolledatsomeremoteperiodfromthemountainside，asblocksofallsizesstrewedthegroundineverydirection。Iwasatoncestruckwithabeautifulblockofdarkgreenmarble，anduponexaminingtheneighbourhoodIdiscoveredmanypiecesofthesamematerial，allofwhichhadevidentlyfallenfromthemountain"sside，thusprovingthattheparentmasswouldbefoundinsituwerethehighcliffsinvestigated。Themulesarrived，andI

directedattentionofIianitothefact，inorderthatImightprocureaspecimenbysendinghimtothespotuponafutureoccasion。Wenowenteredupongrovesofcaroub-trees，andthegroundwascoveredwithblocksoflimestoneandofmarbles。Asweproceededtheshorebecameexceedinglynarrow，asthebaseofthesteepmountainsprangfromwithinashortdistanceofthesea。Thequantityandvarietiesofmarblesincreased，thedarkgreenwaspresentinlargeblocks，andseveralmassesofbrightrose-coloursuggestedthatrareandvaluablequalitiesmightbeprofitablyworkedandexported，asgreatfacilitiesexistedinthepresenceofsnuglittlecoveswithinonlyafewyards，whereinthesummermonthsnativevesselsoftwentyorthirtytonsmightanchorinsecurity。

Thecountrynowbecameexceedinglywildandrugged。Theseawasinmanyplacesexactlybelowusasweskirtedthecliffsandoccasionallycrossedthebeachesofnarrowcoves。ThehighmountainuponourimmediateleftwasthewesternterminusoftheCarpasrange，andexhibitedpeculiargeologicalfeatures，eruptiverockshavingburstinsomeplacesthroughthelimestoneandcreatedgreatdisturbance。Theroutewasexceedinglyinterestingandbeautiful，rocksofeveryshadeofcolourweremingledwithbrightgreenfoliage，theseawasanemeraldgreenintheshallowcoves，anddarkbluewithinafewhundredpacesoftheshore，whileabriskbreezecurledthewavesandtippedtheircrestswithaglisteningwhite。Thepathatlengthturnedtotheleftandledthroughagapthatroundedthemountainbase，andformedtheextremeendoftheJurassiclimestone，whichonlyexistsinCyprusinthepeculiarwall-likeCarpasianrangerunningfromwesttoeastuponthenortherncoast。

Wecrossedastreamofwateratthebottomofthegorgewhichwindsthroughthenarrowglenthatterminatestherange；andascendingupontheoppositeside，weatonceentereduponsteepslopescomposedofmarlsinterspersedwithanexceedinglybrightrose-colouredmarbleinveinsofabouttwofeetthickness。Thiswouldprobablydevelopconsiderableblocksifquarriedtoagreaterdepth。

Continuingforabouttwomilesalongtheglen，whichwascultivatedwithbarleyinallavailablelocalities，weseveraltimescrossedthestreaminitswindingcourse，andmydogshuntedthesteepmyrtle-coveredbanksinexpectationofgame；butnothingmoved，andthecroakingofnumerousfrogswastheonlysignoflife。Theglennowwidenedtoavalleyaboutamileandthree-quartersindiameter，surroundeduponallsidesbyheights，andwecommencedoneofthesteepestascentsinCyprus，upthefaceoftheslopeabout1000feetabovethebottom。Thezigzagswereuponasurfaceofwhitemarl，whichduringwetweatherwouldbecomeasslipperyassoap，andbeimpassableforloadedanimals。Manytimesourmuleswereforcedtohaltandrest，buttheyweregoodandsure-footedbeasts，thatcouldalwaysbedependedupon。

Atlengthwegainedthesummit，whichwasatotalchangeofscene。

Insteadofdescendingupontheotherside，asIhadexpected，wehadarrivedataplateaueightorninemilesinlengthfromnorthtosouth，andaninvisibledistancefromeasttowest。Thesoilwasarichreddishchocolate，formingagratefulcontrasttotheglaringwhitemarlsthatwehadjustquitted，andwhichcomposedthesteephillsthatsurroundedthelowerbasin。Agrowthofyoungpinesandotherevergreenshrubsornamentedthesurface，andataboutaquarterofamilefromthesummitofthepassbywhichwehadarrivedwehaltedatawellofpurewateramongasmallgroveofolive-trees。Althoughwewereatleast1000feetabovethevalley，thewaterwasonlytenfeetfromthecoping-stonebymeasurement。Therecouldbelittledoubtthattheperennialstreaminthedeepglenwastheresultofthedrainageofthisextensivetable-land，correspondingwithsimilarheightsupontheotherside。

Havingbreakfastedbythewellofdeliciouslycoldwater，weremounted，andcontinuedourroutealongtheextensivetable-land。Thiswascultivatedinmanyplaces，butasweadvancedfortwoorthreemilesthecountrybecameexceedinglywild，andweenteredawoodofPinusmaritima，composedofyoungtreesofseveralyears"growth，andolderstemsthathadbeenmutilatedinthedisgracefulmannerthatcharacterisesallCyprianforests。Therewasnotoneperfecttreeaboveeightyears"growth；buteverystemhadbeencutoffaboutsixfeetfromthetopforthesakeofthestraightpole。Treesoffifteenyearsormorehadbeenmercilesslyhackedforthesmallamountofturpentinethatsuchtrunkswouldproduce，andthebarkhadbeenrippedofffortanning。

Greatquantitiesofmasticbushescoveredthesurfacebetweenthepines，andeventheseexhibitedthecontinualattacksofthewoodcutter"sgrubbing-axe，whichhadtornuptheroots，inadditiontothestems，fortherequirementsofthelime-burner。Theredsoilissopropitioustothegrowthofpinesthat，inspiteoftheunremittingdestruction，thegroundwascoveredwithyoungplants，self-sownfromthefallencones。

Iftheseyoungforestswereprotectedfortwelveorfourteenyears，thesurfacewouldagainberestoredtotheoriginalwoodlandthatonceornamentedthisportionoftheisland。UnderthepresentconditionsofCyprusallwholesomelawsandenactmentsarepracticallyridiculedbytheinhabitants，astherearenoforestersorkeeperstoenforcetheordersofthegovernment。AgovernormaysituponthetopofOlympusandissuewisedecreeslikeJupiter，butunfortunatelyhedoesnotpossessthethunderbolts，asthecountryissopoorthatitcannotaffordtopaythesalariesnecessaryforthesupportofforestersandtheofficersrequiredforthisspecialdepartment。Imyselfmetdrovesofdonkeysandmulesloadedwithwoodandaccompaniedbytheirownerswiththeirdestructiveaxes，allwendingtheirwaythroughtheforesttothetownofMorphu，whichisthussuppliedwithfuelforbaking，cooking，lime-

burning，andallotherpurposes。

Itisimpossibletofeelamiablewhenpassingthroughthesedesolatingscenes，wherenature，originallysobeautiful，hasbeendefaced，andthepeople，insteadofderivingpleasurefromnaturalbeauties，areobtusetoallthesurroundings，which，accordingtoeducatedtaste，wouldensureappreciation。Ifeltinclinedtoupsetthedonkeys，capturetheirproprietors，and……Icouldnothavehungthemuponthetreesthattheyhaddefaced，fornoboughhadbeenleftthatwouldhavesupportedtheirweight……andtherewasnorope。

Whilethesevindictiveandstatesman-likethoughtsboiledwithinme，thenaturallycourteouspeoplemadetheirgracefulsalaamsaswepassed，andstudiouslyconductedtheirheavily-ladendonkeysoutofthepathtomakewayforouradvance，thatotherwisewouldhavebeeneffectuallychokedbythethrongofbush-and-faggot-ladenanimals，whichlookedlike“Birnam-woodmarchingtoDunsinane。“InmyheartIimmediatelyforgavethepoorpeople；Iknewthatthemanwiththeaxewhomarchedbehindwasasignorant，andnotsostrong，ashisdonkeywhocarriedtheload。Theyhadbeenbothsubjectsofabadgovernment，anditwasnottheirfaultthattheyweredespoilers。Youmightaswellblamethewindforthedestructionofvenerabletrees；orthelocustsfordevouringthecrops；

theywereungoverned，andunfortunatelytheinstinctofuncivilisedmanistodestroy。IshallsaymoreuponthisimportantsubjectwhenwearriveamongthelastremainingforestsoftheTroodosmountains。

Werodeonwards，alwaysthroughthesamewildernessofoldtree-stemshacked，andyoungtreesthatwouldbehacked；atlengthwesawonaclearedspaceinthedistancewhatIimaginedtobealongbrownrocklyinguponthesurface；butuponridingoutofthepathtoexaminethisobjectIfounditwasasplendidtrunkofapine-treemorethattwofeetindiameter。WhythishadbeensparedforsomanyyearsIcannotsay，butitssizesuggestedreflectionsupontheoriginalforeststhatmusthavecoveredthesurfaceandhaveornamentedtheoncebeautifulislandofCyprus；nowdenuded，andshornofeverynaturalattraction。

Iagainbecameangry；visionsofthepastprimaevalforestsappearedbeforeme，allofwhichhadbeendestroyed：andasformerlywehungamaninEnglandforcuttinganoaksapling，Ithoughtthatthesamecurefortimber-destroyingpropensitiesmightsavethefewremainingforestsinthisisland。Whileindulginginthisstrainofunphilanthropicthoughtweovertookanotherthrongofwood-ladendonkeysandtheirproprietors：againtheysmiled，courteouslysalaamed，andvacatedthepathforus，littleknowingwhatmyinwardthoughtshadbeen。OfcourseIsmiled，salaamedascourteouslyinreturn，andforgavethematonce；

andweproceededonourwaycondemningTurkishrule，theimpecuniosityofourowngovernment，themiserableconditionsofourpresentoccupation，whichrenderedCyprusneitherfish，flesh，norfowl，andthusbydegreesIlashedmyselfintotheworstpossibleframeofmind，until……weovertookanotherthrongofpolitedonkeysandtheirproprietors，whosalaamedandgotoutofourway。Uponsuddenlyemergingfromtheforestupontheedgeofasteepslope，welookeddownuponthebarrensand-colouredplainofMessaria。OurguideIiani，whohadbeenasleepandawakeforatleasteightmiles，suddenlyburstoutintoaditty，andexplainedthatavillageintheplainbelowwasMorphu，thehomeofhiswifeandfamily。

EvenfromthiselevatedpointofviewMorphulookedalongwayoff。ThesleepyIianiwassufficientlywideawaketosteerforhiswife，andwehadmadealongmarchalready。Idoubtedthepossibilityoftheloadedcamelsascendingthesteepslope，whichhadseverelytriedourmules，andIfeltsurethatliani"soldcamelwouldeitherknockuportumbledownwithhisload，shouldheattempttheascent。Itwasofnousetoreflect，andasMorphulaybeforeusinthenowbarrenandsun-smittenplain，wetouchedouranimalswiththespurandpressedon。Descendingforsomemiles，wepassedagardenofolives，thatmusthavebeenupwardsofathousandyearsold，uponourright；andstillincliningdownwards，throughgroundcultivatedwithcerealscompletelywitheredbythedrought，weatlengtharrivedatthebroadbutperfectlydrybedoftheriver。Crossingthis，westeeredforagroveofancientolive-trees，whichIatonceselectedforacamping-place，ontheoutskirtsofthetown。Wewerenowtwenty-threemilesfromLapithus，andIfeltsurethatourbaggageanimalswouldnotarrivetillnightfall。

Aswesatbeneathoneofthesegrandoldolive-treesalone，Iianihavingtakenhismulestohishome，andprobablyatthesametimehavingadvertisedourarrival，throngsofwomenandchildrenapproachedtosalaamandtostare。Ialwaystravelledwithbinocularglassesslungacrossmyback，andthesewereadmirablestare-repellers；itwasonlynecessarytodirectthemuponthecuriouscrowd，andthemostprominentindividualsacknowledgedtheirpowerbyfirstlookingshyandconscious，andthenconfusedlylaughingandretreatingtotherear。

Wehadarrivedat2。20P。M。，andwewaitedbeneaththeolive-treesuntil8P。M。，whentheadvancecamelsatlengthcameinafterdark。Itwas9。30beforethetentswerepitchedandthecamparranged。ThegreatdelayhadbeenoccasionedbyIiani"soldcamel，whichhad，asIhadexpected，rolleddownthesteepbillwithitsload，andhavingnearlykilleditself，hadmortallywoundedthesacredcopperkettle，whicheverytravellerknowsisoneofhisPenates，orhouseholdgods，towhichheclingswithreverenceandaffection。Thisbeautifulobjecthadlostitsplumpandwell-roundedfigure，andhadbeencrushedintoamuseum-shapedantiquitythatwouldhavepuzzledthemostexperiencedarchaeologist。Metalwater-jugsuponwhichthecamelhadrolledhadbeenreducedtotheshapeofsoup-plates，andageneraldestructionofindispensableutensilshadinflictedalossmorethanequaltothevalueofIiani"sanimal。

Thefollowingmorning(12thApril)exhibitedtheextraordinarychangeofclimatebetweenthenorthernandsouthernsidesoftheCarpasmountain-range。Theaveragetemperatureoftheweekhadbeenat7A。M。

57。5degreesF，3P。M。66。5degrees。AtMorphuthethermometerat7A。M。

showed62degrees，andat3P。M。83degrees！Itwaspreciselythesameonthefollowingday。

ItwasadistressingcontrasttothebeautifulKyreniaandtheinterestingnorthcoasttohaveexchangedthegreentreesandripplingstreamsforthearidanddesolateaspectoftheMessaria。ThetownofMorphuhasnospecialinterest；likeallothers，itconsistsofhousesconstructedofsun-bakedbricksofclayandbrokenstraw，withflat-toppedroofsofthesamematerials。Therearefruitfulgardensirrigatedbywater-wheels，andformerlytheextremelyrichsandyloamofthevalleyproducedmadder-rootsofexcellentquality，whichaddedmateriallytothevalueoftheland。Thisindustryhavingbeencompletelyeclipsedbythealizarinedye，Morphuhastodependuponsilkandcerealsforitsagriculturalwealth。ThepopulationiscomposedalmostentirelyofGreeks。Thereisamonasteryandalargeschool。

Irodetothebay，aboutfourmilesandahalfdistant，passingmanyvillages，which，aswenearedthesea，wereinthemidstofmagnificentcropsofbarleyandwheat，resultingfromartificialirrigationbythewaterthatpercolatesbeneaththesandybedofthedryriveratacertainlevel，whichhasbeenledintonumerouschannelsbeforeitcanreachthenaturalexitatitsmouth。Itmustbeexceedinglyunhealthy，as，forseveralsquaremilesupontheseamargin，thecountryisanexpanseofmarshandbulrushes，aboundingwithsnipeduringthewintermonths。On13thAprilIwalkedoverthegreaterportionofthislocalitywithmythreespaniels，butthesnipehaddeparted，andwedidnotmoveabird。

OntherightsideofMorphuBaytotheeast，byKormachiti，thereareextensivesand-dunes，formingdeepdrifts，whichextendforseveralmilesinlandatthefootofthehill-rangethatwehaddescended。Theseexhibittheprevailingwind(north)。Manypeopleuponobservingsand-dunesattributethemostdistantlimitofthesandtotheextremeviolenceofthewind；butthisisnotthecase。Itisthesteadyprevalenceofmoderatelystrongwindsthatcausestheextensionofsand-drifts。Thewindofto-daydepositsthesandatacertaindistancefromtheshore。Thewindto-morrowstartstheaccumulatedsandfromthatdepottoformanewdepositaboutequidistant；andthusbyslowdegreesthedunesareformedbyasuccessionofmounds，conveyedonwardsbyanunchangingforce；butthemaximumpowerofagalewouldbeunabletocarrythousandsoftonsofheavysandtoformahill-rangeattheextremedistancefromtheoriginalbaseofthematerial。AtHambantotte，inthesoutherndistrictofCeylon，thereisanextraordinaryexampleofthisaction，whereduringonemonsoonarangeofmoundsisformedwhichmightbetermedhills；whenthemonsoonchanges，thesebydegreesdisappear，and，accordingtothealterationinthewind，arangeofhillsisformedinanexactlyoppositedirection。

IwasgladtoescapefromMorphu；thewindfromthedryplainwashot，andbroughtcloudsofdust。Weweresurroundedbythrongsofpeopleduringtheday，manyofwhomwereblind，includingyoungchildren。The13thAprilwastheGreekEasterSunday，andwecouldnotstart，asIianideclaredthatthemuleshadrunawayduringthenight，andcouldnotbefound；weknewthiswasonlyanexcuseforremainingatMorphu，andheatlengthconfessedthatthemuleswerecaught，andwecouldstartintheafternoonifIwouldallowhimtowaituntilheshouldhavereceivedthesacramenttogetherwithhiswife。Havingthusbroughtthetheologicalandthedomesticgunstoconcentratetheirfireuponme，I

wasobligedtoyield，andlianiappearedinsuchajovialframeofmindintheafternoon，andsmeltsostronglyofspirits，thatIsuspectedhisdevotionshadbeenmadeattheraki-shopinsteadofthealtar。

On14thAprilwestarted，andwerethankfultoleaveMorphu。Theroutelayacrosstheplainwestward，andinsomepartswerodealongtheseamargin，eagerlyhurryingouranimalstoturnthecornerofthehillsandescapefromthehotanddrearyplain。Thebreezewasnortherly，andaheavysurfbrokeuponthecoast，exhibitingtheexposedpositionofMorphuBayfromnorthtowest。Ontheeasternsidethebeachissandyandthewaterdeepensrapidly，affordinggoodandsafeanchorageneartheshore；butshouldthewindchangesuddenlytowestornorth，thepositionwouldbedangerous。ThebayisthemoststrikingofallthenumerousindentationsontheshoresofCyprus。TheboldpointsofCapeKormachitiandCapeKokkinoformthechordofanarctwenty-onemilesinlength，fromthecentreofwhichthebayentersthelandaboutelevenmiles。Itwouldbeimpossibletolandfromboatsevenduringamoderatebreezefromthewesttonorthwithoutconsiderabledanger；butIcanseenodifficultyinarrangingafloatingbreakwaterthatwouldaffordshelterforsmallvesselsandaddmateriallytotheimportanceoftheroadstead。Thesearethenecessaryimprovementswhichrequireanoutlay，andunfortunatelyundertheexistingconditionsofouroccupationtherevenuethatwouldbeavailableforpublicworksistransferredtothetreasuryofConstantinople；thustheTurkstillhampersprogress，ashegovernsCyprusintheuniformoftheBritishofficial。Weroundedthebaseofthehills，whichroserapidlyfromtheshore，andcrossedseveralsmallstreamsthicklyfringedwithtamarisk，thatwouldbeimpassableduringsuddenstormsoftherainyseason。Severalvillagesweredistinguishedbytheirbrightgreenappearanceamongthehills，whichdenotedtheexistenceofspringsorrivulets，andasweproceededweobservedthatallcropsinthelowgroundhadbenefitedbyartificialirrigation。

AfterarideoftwohoursandahalfwearrivedatCaravastasi，andhaltedinaverystonyfieldatthebackofthevillage，beneathanoldcaroub-treethathadgrownthickandshadybythemercilesshackingofitstallerboughs，whichhadreducedittoapollard。ThevillageofCaravastasiconsistsonlyofeightortenhouses，butisrenderedimportantbyaCustom-house。ItissituatedonthemostinlandpointofMorphuBay，andisslightlyshelteredonthewestbyapromontory，whichformsaneatlittlecovefortheprotectionofsmallvessels；butitiscompletelyopenduenorth。Nothingwouldbeeasierthantoconstructasmallharbour，byextendingapierorbreakwaterfromtheendofthepromontoryintherequireddirection；andthepresentunimportantvillagewouldbecomeonlysecondinimportancetoKyrenia。

Thepositionsofancientsea-portruinsattestthevaluethatattachedtocertaingeographicalpointsinformerdays，andalthoughthevesselsofthoseperiodsmayhavebeenmuchinferiortoshipsofmoderntimes，theyweresufficientlylargeforthecommerceofthecountryandforthecapabilitiesoftheharbours。ThetradeofCypruswillalwaysbecarriedbyvesselsfromtwentytoonehundredandfiftytons，andthereshouldbenodifficultyinprovidingshelterforshipsofthissmalldraughtofwater。TheruinsofSoli，onthewestofthepresentvillageofCaravastasi，provethattheAthenians，whofoundedtheoriginalcity，werethoroughlycognizantofthevalueofapositionwhichistheonlyspotuponthewholenortherncoastofCyprusthatwillaffordshelteroralanding-place，exceptingtheharbourofKyrenia。IntheearlyperiodofCyprianhistorySolirepresentedoneoftheindependentkingdomswhentheislandwasdividedintoten，Amathus，Cerinea(Kyrenia)，Citium，Chytri，Curium，Lapithas，Marium，Nea-Paphos，Salamis，andSoli。ThePhoenicians，fromtheirownsouthernposition，naturallyselectedtheportsmostconvenientfortheirtrade，andaccordinglysettledonthesouthcoastofCyprus，theirchieftownsbeingAmathus，Citium，andPaphos；thesewereimportantcommercialportsatatimewhenCypruswasinitszenithofprosperity，andweresufficientfortherequirementsoftheperiod。IftheBritishoccupationisintendedtobepermanentitwillbehighlynecessarytodeterminetheclassesofharboursthatshouldbeprovided，asitwouldbeauselessextravagancetoexpendlargesumsupontheconstructionofportsbeyondthenecessitiesofthetrade。AsIhavealreadyexpressedanopinionthatthecommerceofCypruswillberepresentedbyvesselsofmoderatetonnage，thenecessaryprotectionforsuchvesselsmaybeobtainedatanequallymoderateoutlay，andbothSoliandKyreniamaybemadeavailableassafeharboursforalltradersuponthenortherncoast。Famagoustawouldbecomethearsenalanddockyardforshipsofwar；LarnacaandLimasolwouldbesaferoadsteadsforallclasses，andcouldeasilybearrangedtoprotectsmalltrading-vessels；whileBaffowould，likeKyreniaandSoli，berestoredtoitsoriginalposition。Allrudimentaryharbour-workswouldbeplannedwithaviewtofutureextension，asmightberenderednecessarybythedevelopmentoftrade。

ColonelWhite，1stRoyalScots，whohadbeenappointedchiefcommissioneroftheLefkosiadistrictfromhisformersimilarpositionatLarnaca，arrivedatCaravastasiuponthesamedayasourselves。Thisverypainstakingandenergeticofficerwasexploringhisdistrictandinvestigatingallthenooksandcornersofthemountainousfrontierwhichboundedhisauthority；hewasaccordinglyassailedwithcomplaintsandlamentationsconcerningtheendlesswaterdisputesamongthevillages；thoseofthelowergrounddeclaringthatthestreamstowhichtheywereentitledbytherightsofcenturieshadbeendivertedtootherchannels，thattheTurkishauthoritieshadbeenbribedbytheopposinglitigants；withtheusuallonglistofgrievances，thediscussionofwhichIshalldefertoaspecialchapterupon“Irrigation。“

CHAPTERVIII。

ROUTETOBAFFO。

Ourtentwaspitcheduponrisingground，whichformedthedirectslopefromthesea，aquarterofamiledistant，tothemountain-topabout1500or2000feetaboveus；theinsignificantvillageofCaravastasiwasuponthesea-beachinourimmediatefront。

FromourcommandingpositionIhadobservedapeculiarmoundwithacliff-facehalfamiletothewest，whichexhibitedtheunusualcolourofabrightlemonyellowincloseconjunctionwithredofvariousshades。Uponcrossingnumerousfieldsofbarley，whichthereapershadjustattacked(14thApril)，Idescendedaravineatthefootofthispeculiarformation，whichIcarefullyexamined。

SincewehadcrossedtheplainofMorphuandquittedthecompactlimestoneoftheCarpasrangewehadentereduponaninterestinggeologicalchange。Eruptiverockshadburstthroughthemarlsandcalcareoussedimentarylimestoneofthecoastandhadproducedverycuriousexamplesofmetamorphousrocks，wherethemarlsandlimestonehadbeeninimmediatecontactwiththeplutonic。Thecliffabovemewasaboutfiftyfeethigh，asIstoodatitsbasewithinashallowgorgethatformedabrookduringtherainyseason。

ThebottomuponwhichIstoodwasamassofdebrisofbrightcolours，varyingfrompurewhitetodifferentshadesofyellowandred。Thismaterialappearedtohavefallenrecently，astheblocksdidnotexhibitthedullexteriorthatwouldhaveresultedfromatmosphericalexposure。

Iclimbedupthesteepfaceofcrumbledmatterwithsomedifficulty，asthesharplyinclinedsurfacedescendedwithme，emittingapeculiarmetallicclinklikemassesofbrokenporcelain。OnarrivalatthetopI

remarkedthatonlyafewinchesofvegetablemouldcoveredastratumofwhitemarlaboutafootthick，andthishadbeenpiercedinmanyplacesbytheheatthathadfusedthemarlandconverteditintoaclinkerorsharply-edgedwhiteslag，mixedwithanochreousyellowandbrightred。

Ihadnevermetwithanythinglikethissingularexampleofigneousactionuponmarls。Intheneighbourhoodtherewereconsiderablemassesofthesameclinker-likematerialexhibitingahoneycombedappearance，thatwouldhavebeenwelladaptedformillstones。ThenativesinformedmethatallthemillstonesofthenortherncoastwereimportedfromAthens。IhadheardwhileatKythreathatthestonesfortheverynumerousmillsofthatneighbourhoodweresuppliedfromAlexandretta，andthatnoneofnativeoriginwereemployed。TherecanbenodoubtthatsomeofthespecimensIexaminedofthismaterialcombinedtherequirementsofextremehardness，porosity，andsharpnessofinterioredgesaroundthehoneycombedcavities。Iwalkedoverthemountain，andquicklylostthemarlinmassesofplutonicrocksthathadbeenupheavedandentirelyoccupiedthesurface。Althoughvastblockslayheapedinthewildestconfusion，theyexhibitedthepeculiarcharacteristicsofallCyprianrocks(exceptingthecalcareouslimestone)intheirutterwantofcompactness。IhaveneverseeninCyprusanyhardrock(exceptjurassiclimestone)，whethergneiss，syenite，orothers，thatwouldyieldanunblemishedstonetothemason"schiseloftenfeetinlengthbyasquareoftwofeet。Thispeculiarityisnottheresultofdecay，buttheentiremasshasbeenfracturedbyvolcanicdisturbanceandbytherapidcoolingofmoltenmatterupheavedfrombeneaththesea。

Redjasperisabundantinthislocality，andisgenerallyfoundinsmallpiecesembeddedinthemarls。Idiscoveredaverycompactspecimenweighingabout200lbs。，whichIleftatahouseinCaravastasiuntilI

mighthaveanopportunityofconveyingittoLarnaca。UponcrossingthemountainIarrivedatacharmingvalleyamongthehillsatanelevationofabout1200feetabovethesea，atthenarrowentranceofwhich，betweenthesidesofthegorge，wasaTurkishvillage。Iwasquicklyobserved，andbeingquitealone，withtheexceptionofmydogs，aTurkishwoman，towhomImadeasalaam，ranintoaneighbouringhouseandsentherhusbandwithachair，thatImightsitbeneathanalmond-tree。AfewTurksgatheredroundmeandinsistedwithmuchpolitenessthatIshouldenterthehouseoftheownerofthechair。Itwasaroughdwelling，butIwaskindlywelcomed，andcheese，bread，andcurdswerequicklyarrangedbeforeme，togetherwithagourd-shellofclearcoldwater，fromthespringwhichissuedfromtherocksinthegorgeaboutfiftyfeetbelowthehouse。TothedisappointmentofmyhostIwasobligedtodeclineallhisofferings，exceptadraughtofcoldwater，asIhadbreakfastedbeforeleavingthecamp。TheTurknowshowedmehisgun，whichheexplainedwasoflittleuse，ashecouldnotaffordagamelicence，butheofferedtoshowmeaspotwherehareswereabundant。Theshooting-seasonwaslongsinceclosed，thereforepartridgesandfrancolinsweresacred，butIshouldhavehadnoscruplesinbaggingahareforastew。Myguideconductedmeoververylikelygrounddownintoravineswithbush-coveredsides，thenuponthehill-tops，andamongpatchesofcultivationwherethehareshadplayedsadhavocinnibblingthewheatandbarley；butwefoundnone。Mydogshuntedeverybushinvain，andtheburningsunhaddriedouteveryvestigeofscent。Ibelievetheharesescapethesunbytakingrefugebeneaththerocks，otherwisewemusthavemovedatleastoneortwo。Myguidewasmuchdisappointed，butasgamewasabsenthehuntedforwildasparagus，whichgrewinconsiderablequantitiesbeneaththethickclumpsofbushesuponthehill-sides。Bythetimethatwearrivedincamphehadcollectedsufficientforagooddish。Thisvarietyisnotquitesothickasgoodcultivatedasparagus，butitissuperiorinflavour，althoughslightlybitter。

WerodetoLefka，aboutthreemilesdistant。ThisisoneofthosehappylandsofCypruswhichiswateredwithunfailingstreamsfromtheTroodosrange，thathaveenforcedprosperity。Thetownisimportant，andissituateduponthesidesofthehills，whichformavalley，throughwhich，inrainyweather，ariverflows；atotherseasons，likeallCypriantorrents，thebedisdry。ThehousesofLefkaarealmostconcealedbytheluxuriantfoliageofthegardensandorangeries。Werodethroughnarrowlanesstreamingwithwater，andshadedwiththeelm，ash，maple，andinnumerablefruit-trees。Mills，turnedbywater，themasonryoftheaqueductsbeingornamentedwiththegracefulmaiden-hairferns，enlivenedtheotherwisedulllanesbyanexhibitionofindustry。

Theorange-treesandlemonswereliterallyoverweightedwithfruit，whichinsomeinstancesoverpoweredthefoliagebyapreponderanceofyellow。Lefkasuppliesthewholewesterndistrictwithlemons，inadditiontothemarketofthecapital，Lefkosia。Asusual，Iobservedthatthefruit-treeswereridiculouslycrowded，thuspreventingtheadmissionofthenecessaryairandlight。Iforbearatpresenttodescribethefruit，asnoneexistedatthisseason，exceptingorangesandlemons，andIwishtointroducemyreaderstoeverysceneandobjectpreciselyastheymetmyeyeintravellingthroughthecountry。ThelemonsaresomeofthebestIhaveevertasted，buttheorangesarefullofseeds，withthickskins，andalthoughjuicyandrefreshinginthishotclimate，theywouldberejectedintheEnglishmarket。

AverycursoryviewofLefkawassufficienttoexplainitsagriculturalimportance，andto(forthehundredthtime)awakenthereflectionthatmostportionsoftheislandmightequalsuchexceptionalprosperity，ifspecialattentionwerebestoweduponthedevelopmentofartificialirrigation。

On16thAprilweleftCaravastasi，androdeoveralmosttheworstroad，butoneofthemostpicturesqueinCyprus。Itwasasuccessionofthesteepestupsanddownsthroughandovermountainspurs，tocutoffthepromontorieswhichprojectedintotheseaatrightangleswithourroute。Itseemedimpossiblethatloadedanimalsshouldbeabletotraversesuchsteepanddangerousdefiles，andImadeupmymindthatIiani"sancientcamelwouldterminateitscareer，togetherwiththatofourpossessionsuponitsback，byrollingseveralhundredfeetintothedarkangleofsomeprecipitousravine。EvenIianikeptawake，andpresentlyIheardafaintexclamationfrombehind，anduponturningroundIdiscoveredLadyBakerupontheground，thesaddlehavingtwistedbeneathhermuleindescendingasteepandrockygulley；fortunatelyshefelluponthewall-sideofthepath，insteadofupontheedgeoftheprecipice；andshewasunhurt。

Althoughtheroutewasabominableitwasmostinteresting。Asthedrainageofthemountainswasatrightangles，wecrossedasuccessionofheightswhichaffordedshortglimpsesoftheseasome600feetbeneath，withtheperpendicularrock-boundcoastbelowus，andthenalternatelydescendedintothedepthsoftheinterveninggullies。Thispeculiarityexhibitedtoperfectionthegeologicalformation。Wehadenteredupontraprocksandthegreenstone，allofwhichshowedtracesofcopper。Notwithstandingthewildanddangerousroute，everyavailableplotofgroundwascultivated，althoughnovillageswereperceptible。

Thepeasantscarriedtheirlightploughsupondonkeysfromconsiderabledistances，andwiththeseexceedinglyusefulimplementstheyploughedinclinesthatwouldhavebeenimpossibletocultivatewithanyEuropeanimplementexceptthehoe。Atlengthwedescendedtothesea-beach，andmarchingthroughheavysandforaboutamile，wearrivedatPyrgos，ourhalting-place，twelvemilesfromCaravastasi。

ThisisoneofthewildestportionsofCyprus。Thereisnovillage，butthepositionissimplymarkedbythepresenceofonebuildingabovethesea-beach，whichhasbeenadepotforthesparsandpolesofpinethathaveperiodicallybeendeliveredfromthemountainsbythetorrents，whenheavyrainshaveswollenthemsufficientlytoenablethemtoforcethetimbertowardsthesea。Asthemountainsuponthisportionofthecoastdescendinmanyplacesactuallytotheshore，whileinnoplacesaretheymorethanhalfamiledistant，therivuletsarenumerous，asthereisnotime，orarea，sufficientfortheirabsorptionbythesoil。

Withinahundredandfiftypacesofthetimberstorebeautifulstreamsofclearwaterissuedfromthegroundinthreedifferentplaces，whichconvergedintoabrookaboundingwithwater-cresses，andthis，afterpassingthroughasmallandthickjungleoftamarisk-bushes，formedapoolabovethesea-beachwhichoverflowedupontheshingle，andmetthewaves。Weascendedthestreamforashortdistance，until，temptedbytwoorthreelargeplane-trees，wehaltedforluncheonbeneaththeirshade。Theriver，whichoccasionallyfloodedsufficientlytobringdownheavytimberwhenfelledamongthemountains，flowedthroughanextremelyrichbutnarrowvalley，whichextendedintoaglenbetweentheirprecipitousslopesuntilitbecameamereravine。Themassofmountainsinthisdistrict，whichformasuccessionofwildandimpassablesteeps，ismarkeduponKiepert"smapas“unexplored。“Theywereoriginallypine-forests，butthedestructionoftimberhasbeencarriedtosuchanexcessthatcomparativelyfewtreesremain。WithmyglassIcoulddistinguishlargetrunksthatlayrottingupontheground，wheretheyhadpitchedamongthestems，androotsoftreesthathadbeenalreadyfelled；thesehadbeenrolledfromthesteepheightsabove，buthavingbeencaughtintheirdescenttothetorrentbelowbytheopposingstumps，theyhadbeenabandoned，andothertreeshadbeenfelledintheirstead，wheretheinclinationwasmorefavourablefortheirtransport。

Thisportionofthecoastshouldbethoroughlyexploredbypracticalminers，asitisrichinminerals。Iprocuredsomefinespecimensofpyritesofcopper，whichthenativesmistookforsilver；andshouldamineralogicalinvestigationbemadebytheauthorities，IfeelsurethatthemetallicwealthofCypruswillbediscoveredbetweenCaravastasiandPoli-ton-Krysokhus。

Itwaslatebeforeourbaggageanimalsappeared，andwhentheyatlengtharrived，Iiani"svenerablecamelwasmissing。Itappearedthatthisworn-outoldcreaturehadbeenperformingacrobaticfeatsintumblingthroughoutthedifficultjourney，andhadrolled，togetherwithitsload，downseveralplacesthathadthreateneditsdestruction。Ithaddelayedthemarchseveralhours，asithadbeenmanytimesreleasedfromdifficultiesbyunloading，reloading，anddividingtheheavierportionsofbaggageamongtheothercamelswhichreceivedasmallerpay。Atlength，uponarrivinguponthedeepsandofthebeach，aboutamiledistant，ithadfallendown，andgivenupeverythingexcepttheghost。

ItwasanaturalannoyancetotheownersoftheothercamelsthatIianishouldbepaidhighlyforauselessanimal，whiletheyhadtocarryitsloaddividedamongthemassistedbyadivisionofthesmallerweightsamongtheservants"ridingmules。Theeveningwaspassedingrumbling：

everybodywasinabadhumour。Itwasdeclaredimpossibletopitchthetentuponthesandybeachbythepooloffreshwater，astherewasnoholding-groundforthetent-pegs。Iquicklyinstructedtheminmakingfaggotsoftamarisk-boughswhich，tiedtotheropesandburiedinthesand，weremuchmoresecurethanpegsinthehardestsoil；andthetentwasatlengtharranged。Asmallspeciesofcurlewtempteditsfatebyvisitingthefresh-watermarginjustbeforeourdinner-hour；Ibaggedit；andasthecookwasinabadhumour，Imadeafireofdriftwood，withwhichthebeachwasstrewed，andwhentheglowingembershadsucceededtotheflameandformedared-hotheap，Icuttwoforkedsticks，which，placedoneithersideuprightinthesand，supportedmybirduponalongskewerofgreentamarisk-wood。Alittlesalt，pepper，andasmearofbutteroccasionally，producedaresultthatwouldhavebeatenChristo"sbestattempts。

Onthefollowingmorningwewerealloncemoreingoodhumour；theoldcamelhadnotdied，buthadbeenbroughtintocamplateatnight。Itnowformedtheobjectforeverybody"sjoke，anditsownerlianiwasrecommendedto“tryandsellit，“or“tomakeitapresenttoafriend，“

or“torideithimself；“thelattercoursewouldhavebeenadeservedpunishment。Iianiescapedfurtherremarksbyjumpinguponhismuleandridingahead，andwefollowedourguidewithoutdelayalongthedeepsandybeach。

Werodeforfourteenmilesalongcliffsborderingthesea，withthedeephollowsoccasionedbythenaturaldrainagecausingacontinualseriesofupsanddowns，whichremindedmeforciblyofthecoastofSouthDevonbetweenTorquayandDawlish。Thedifferencelayintherocks，whichwereallplutonic，andinthesceneryuponourleft，whichwasawildandconfusedmassofmountains，scarredbydeepanddarkravines，whilethemoredistantsummitsexhibitedthestill-existingpine-forests；thesehaddisappearedfromtheslopeswhichfacedthecoast，andhadaffordedfacilitiesforexportation。Wehaltedinadeepglenbetweenexceedinglysteephills，throughwhichatorrent-bedhadcutitscoursedirectlytothesea。Inthissecludedspot，farfromallvillagesorinhabitants，wearrangedtoencampuponaflatandinvitingplotofturf，whichinCyprusisrarelymetwith。Sometolerableelmsandothertreesformedadenseshadeinadeepandnarrowportionoftheglenbeneaththeover-hangingcliffs，andabeautifulspringofwaterissuedfromtherock，receivedinastonecisternbeneath。Anarchofmasonryinclosedthespring，whichsomekindpersonhadthuscarefullyarrangedforthepublicgood；thiswasrichlyclothedwithmaiden-hairferns。Thesurpluswater，afteroverflowingthestonebasin，formedafaintstream，whichtrickledovertherocksbetweencliffsonlyafewfeetapart，untilitemergedfromthisnarrowcleftandjoinedthesea。Iwalkeddownthisnaturalalleytothebeachandbathed，totheastonishmentofmyguideIianiandanotherCypriote，whorushedtothetopofthecliffasthoughtheythoughtIcontemplatedsuicide；thesepeoplehavinganaturalhorrorofcoldwater。ThenameofthissecludedglenwasSymboli。

OnthefollowingmorningwestartedforPolis，fourteenmilesbyaneasyroutealongthecoast。Themountainsuponourleftwereveryprecipitous，andexhibitedthesamecharacterofcompletewildernesswhichhadmarkedthemforthelasttwomarches；theonlydifferenceapparentwasanincreaseintheremainingpines，whichfairlyclothedtheirsummitsandravines。Theseawasperfectlycalm，andforthefirsttimeduringourstayinCyprusweobservedmanyshoalsoffishplayinguponthesurfaceclosetothebeach。Twocormorantswereinthebay，andImadesomefortunateshots，killingonewiththerifleatupwardsof200yards，anddisablingtheotheratabout250。Thereappearedtobemoresignsofgameinthispartofthecountry，asthecockfrancolinswerecrowinginmanydirectionsthroughoutourroute，untilwearrivedatPolis，or，infull，“Poli-ton-Krysokhus。“

Thisplacewasformerlyimportantasoneoftheprincipalmineralcentresoftheisland，andthelargeaccumulationsofscoriaeinseveralmoundsnearthecoastprovethatminingoperationswereconducteduponanextensivescale。Aconcessionhadrecentlybeengrantedtoasmallprivatecompanyfortheworkingofcopperinthisneighbourhood，andshouldtheexistenceofmetallicwealthbeprovedtherecanbenodoubtthatcapitalwillbeembarkedinminingenterprises，andthelocalitywillrecoveritsformerimportance。Ontheotherhand，allminingadventuresshouldbeconductedwiththegreatestcaution。Acommonerroriscommittedbysanguinespeculatorsinfollowingthefootstepsoftheancients，uponthesuppositionthatbecauseinformeragesalocalitywasproductive，itshouldremaininthesameprofitablecondition。

Nothingcanbemoreerroneous；itisgenerallypoorgleaningafterthePhoenicians。Thebronzeofthoseextraordinaryminersandmetallurgistswasrenownedaboveallotherqualities；theyworkedthecopper-minesofCyprusandthetin-minesofCornwall，buttheexpensesofworkingamineinthosedaysborenocomparisonwiththeoutlayofmoderntimes。Slaveswereemployedasageneralrule：forcedlabourwasobtainable；andthegeneralconditionsofthelabour-marketwereutterlyatvariancewiththoseofthepresentday。Theancientminerswouldseldomhaveabandonedtheirveinsoforeuntiltheywerecompletelyexhausted，andthevastheapsofscoriaewhichnowmarkthesitesoftheiroperationsmaybetheremainsofworksthatweredesertedaswornoutandunproductive。Itistruethattracesofcopperarevisibleinmanyplacesthroughoutthemetamorphousrocks，andthegreenstonefromSolitoPoli-ton-Krysokhus，butitremainstobeprovedwhetherthemetalexistsinsufficientquantitiestobeprofitablyworked。ItisgenerallybelievedthatzincwasformerlyproducedatSoli，wherevestigesofancientminingoperationsaretobeseenuponthesurface，butformanycenturiestheworkshavebeenabandoned。

Averycarefulscientificexaminationoftheislandhasbeenmadebyvariousexplorers——M。Gaudry，Unger，andKotschy：theirreportsarenotencouraging，butatthesametimeitmustbeallowedthattheywerenotpracticalminers。TheworkofM。Gaudrymustalwaysbeacceptedasamostvaluableauthorityuponthegeology，mineralogy，andgeneralagriculturalresourcesofCyprus，butitwillberemarkedbyallpracticalmenthattheexplorationsofthecountryhavebeensuperficial；nomoneyhasbeenexpended；andisittobesupposedthatthesurfaceoftheearthwillspontaneouslyrevealthesecretsoftheinterior？

UnderthepresentadministrationitisquiteimpossibletosaytoomuchinpraiseoftheenergyandpainstakingdevotiontotheinterestsofGreatBritainandtothoseofthisislandbytheHighCommissionerandeveryofficer，fromthecommissionersofdistrictstothesubordinateofficials；butaccordingtothetermsoftheConventionwiththePortetheislandisascompletelydenudedofmoneyasthesummitsofthecretaceoushillshavebeendenudedofsoilbythedestructiveagencyofweather。ItispainfultoanEnglishtraveller，whoselifemayhavebeenpassedinpracticaldevelopment，tosurveythecountryasitnowis，toreflectuponwhatithasbeen，andtoseethatevenundertheauspiciousreputationofanEnglishoccupationnothingcanbedonetoawakenresourcesthathavesolonglaindormant。Moneyiswanted——moneymustbehad。Withoutanexpenditureofcapital，richesmayexist，buttheywillremainburiedinobscurity。