第6章

Aresponsibleofficialwouldreply——“Wewillgiveyouaconcession，wewillgiveyoueverypossibleencouragement。“Thecapitalistwillaskonesimplequestion，“IsCyprusaportionoftheBritishEmpireuponwhichI

candepend，orisitaswallow"snestofapoliticalseason，tobeabandonedwhentheparty-schemeshaveflown？”

Anynumberofquestionsmaybeaskedatthepresentmoment，butintheabsenceofalldefiniteinformationnocapitalistwillembarkinanyenterpriseinCyprus，whichmaybeultimatelyabandonedlikeCorfu；andthevalueofallpropertywouldbereducedtoaruinousdegree。

ThemininginterestsofCyprusmustremainforthemostpartundevelopeduntilsomesatisfactorychangeshallbeeffectedinthetenureoftheislandthatwillestablishconfidence。

Poliswasastragglingplacesituateduponeithersideofariver，throughthebedofwhichaveryreducedstreamwasflowingaboutthreeinchesindepth。Aflatvalleylaybetweentheheights，bothofwhichwereoccupiedbynumeroushousesandnarrowlanes，whiletherichsoilofthelowground，irrigatedbythewateroftheriverwithdrawnbyartificialchannels，exhibitedsplendidcropsofwheatandbarley。

Grovesofveryancientolive-treesexistedinthevalley，andwehaltedbeneaththefirstoak-treesthatIhadseeninCyprus。Thesewerewide-

spreading，althoughnothigh，andImeasuredthegirthofonesolidstem——eighteenfeet。

Wehadhardlyoff-saddled，whencrowdsofwomenandchildrencollectedfromallquarters，withafewmen，tostareatthenew-comers；notatME

personally，butatmywife。Theywere，ifpossible，morefilthythantheaverageofCyprianwomen，andagreatproportionofthechildrenweremarkedwithrecentattacksofsmall-pox。IregrettedthatIhadnotasupplyofcrackerstothrowamongstanddispersethecrowdthatdailypesteredus；anyladythatinfuturemaytravelthroughCyprusshouldhaveaportmanteaufullofsuchsimplefireworks。Itwasinvaintoexplainthatthepeoplewereanuisanceiftoonear：whendriventoamoderatedistance，theywouldadvanceshyly，bydegrees；twoorthreechildrenwouldcomeforwardandsitdownafewpacesinfrontofthemainbody；afterafewminutesseveralotherswouldoverstepthisfrontierandsitdownfiveorsixyardsinadvanceofthelastcomers，andbythissilentsystemofskirmishingwewerealwayssurroundedintwentyminutesaftertheoriginalcrowdhadbeendispersed。Ididnotmindthemsolongastheywerenotinpersonalcontact，andwerefreefromrecentsmall-pox；butsomeofthered-pittedfaceswerefullofwarning。

TherewasnothingofinteresttodetainusatPolis，andwestartedearlyuponthe19thApriltowardsBaffo。ThevalleythroughwhichtheriverAspropotamohaddepositedalayeroffertilealluviumdividedthemountainrange，leavingtheplutonicrockstotheeast；andonthewesternsideweascendedasteeppathovercretaceouslimestone，brokenanddisturbedatintervalsbytheprotrusionoferuptiverocks。AsweincreasedouraltitudewelookeddownuponapicturesqueviewofthebayofKrysokhus，withtwosailsuponitsbluewatersbeneaththedarkcliffsofthewesternshore。TheancientMariumorArsinoeshowednovestigesexceptinthemodernvillageofPolis，which，fromthedistance，lookedbetterthanthereality，asthefoliageofnumeroustreesshadowingtheterrace-builthousesuponeithersidetherichgreenvalley，backedbytheloftyrangeofpine-coveredmountains，completedalovelylandscape。

Anhourhadpassed，butstillweascended；thepathwasasusualrugged，andwealreadylookeddownupontheseaandvalleyatleast2000feetbeneath。Ihadseriousmisgivingsconcerningthecamelsandtheirloads。

GeneraldiCesnolahadexaminedthewholeofthiscountryinhissearchforantiquities，buttheneighbourhoodoftheancientArsinoe，wheremuchhadbeenexpected，wasalmostunproductive。

Thepathstillrose；untilatlengthwearriveduponanextensiveplateauabout2400feetabovethesea。Thesoilwaschocolate-colour，andthesurfacewascoveredwithlargestonesofthesedimentarylimestonethatsurroundsthecoast，andwhichformstheflat-toppedhillsoftheMessaria。Inmanyplacesthenativeshadbuilttheseintowallsaroundtheirfields，inordertoclearthegroundrequiredforcultivation。Wepassedseveralvillages，allsqualidandmiserable，althoughtherichsoilexhibitedgreencropsfarsuperiortoanythingwehadmetwithinthelowercountry。Extensivegardensofmulberryexplainedthesilk-producingpowerofthisneighbourhood，andalmonds，figs，apricots，&c。，throveingreatnumbersandluxuriance。Thispeculiarlyfruitfulplateauoccupiesanareaofabouteightmilesfromnorthtosouth，andfourfromeasttowest。WehaltedatthelargeTurkishvillageofArodes，fromwhichwelookeddownupontheseaandthesmallrockyislandoppositeCapeDrepano，onthewesterncoast，almostbeneathourfeet。ThisportionofCyprusiseminentlyadaptedforthecultivationoffruit-trees，astheclimateandsoilcombinemanyadvantages。Theelevationandpeculiargeographicalpositionattractmoisture，whilethelowergroundupontheeastisparchedwithdrought。

Theevaporationfromtheseabelowcondensesuponthecoolerheightsimmediatelyaboveandcreatesrefreshingmistsandlightrain，whichaccountedforthesuperiorityofthecropscomparedwithanythatIhadseenelsewhere。ShortlyafterhaltingatArodesweexperiencedtheseatmosphericalchanges。ThethermometeratPolishadbeen57degreesat7

A。M。，anditwasonly56degreesat3P。M。atthisaltitudeof2400

feet。Althoughtheskyhadbeenclear，mistsbegantoascendfromthechasmsandgulliesalongtheabruptfaceofthemountainwhichoverhungthesea；thesecurledupwardsandthickened，untiladensefogrolledalongthesurfacefromthewestandcondensedintoalightshowerofrain。TheTurkishinhabitantsofthevillagewereextremelycivil，andmadenocomplaintsofscarcityfromdrought，astheyfullyappreciatedtheadvantagesoftheirlocality。Thehawthorn-treeswereonlyjustbuddingintobloom，whilethoseinthelowcountryhadshedtheirflowers，andhadalreadyformedtheberries。InfutureanextensivegrowthoffruitmaysupplythemarketofAlexandria，butatpresentthetotalabsenceofroadswouldrenderthetransportofsoperishableamaterialuponthebacksofmulesimpossible。Ihadsentbackourthreeridingmulestomeetandtorelievethecamels，andbythisprecautionthebaggageanimalsarrivedataconvenienthour。

TheroutetoBaffoorKtima，whichisnowtheprincipaltown，layacrosstheplateauforaboutfivemilestothevergewhichformedthetable-land，fromwhichmarginwelookeddownuponthedeepvalebelow，boundedbytheseaatafewmilesdistance。

Wedismountedandwalkeddownthelongandsteeppass，themulesbeingledbehind。Theentirefaceoftheperpendicularcliffswascretaceouslimestone，butthescalyslopesofahilluponourleft，aboutamileandahalfdistant，formedalooseheapofshale，whichhadslipped，eitherduringearthquakesorheavyrains，ingreatmassestothebottom。

Afteralongandtediousdescentwereachedthebaseofthepass，andhaltedinabroadriver-bedfullofrocksandstonesofallsizes，whichhadbeenroundedbythetorrentoftherainyseason。Therewasnowaterexceptinsmallpoolsthathadbeenscrapedinthesandforthebenefitofthetravellinganimals。Havingwateredourmulesandremounted，weascendedthesteepbanksofthestreamandcontinuedtowardsthesea，feelingasensibledifferenceinthetemperaturesincewehaddescendedfromtheheights。

Thecountrywasexceedinglypretty，asitslopedgentlydownwardsforthreeorfourmiles，thesurfaceornamentedwithcaroub-trees，untilweatlengthreachedthesea-beachandcrossedthesandymouthoftheriver"sbed。Thecropsofcerealswereperishedbydroughtintheabsenceofirrigation；butuponcontinuingourrouteparallelwiththebeachweobservedanimmediateimprovement，asthewaterwasconductedbyartificialchannelstothevariousfields。Thisarrangementhadbeeneffectedbyerectingatemporarydamintheriver"sbedfaramongthemountains，andthusleadingthestreamintotheconduitformanymiles。

Smallbrooksintersectedourpathalongthecoast，andinseveralplacesIremarkedtheruinsofancientaqueducts……Therewasnothingofpeculiarinterestuponthisroute；thelandinclinedupwardsfromtheseaforsixorsevenmilestothefootofthemountainrange，allofwhichwaseithercultivatedwithcerealsorwascoveredwithcaroub-

treesandolives。Manyvillagesweredottedoverthesurface；theseweregreenwithmulberryandvariousfruit-trees。Withtheseauponourright，andthewavesdashingbrisklyupontherockyshore，thescenewasagreeable；butthesunwashot，andwewerenotsorrytoseethedistantminaretsofKtimaafterarideofseventeenmilesfromArodes。

WepassedtheruinsofancientPaphosuponourright，andshortlyafterwardsascendedtherockyslopeuponwhichthecapitalofthedistrict，Ktima，issituated。Itisalargetown，andaswerodethroughthebazaarthenarrowstreetwasalmostblockedwithhugepilesoforangesthathadbeenimportedfromJaffa，theseasonfortheCyprusfruitbeingnearlyover。

Iianiwasexceedinglystupidinselectingcamping-ground，thereforeuponarrivalatanewplaceweinvariablyhadtoexploretheneighbourhood，likemigratorybirdslandeduponstrangeshores。WeaccordinglyrodethroughtheconsiderabletownofKtimaamidstthebarkingandsnappingofinnumerabledogs，whoattackedourBritishspaniels，keepinguparunningfightthroughouttheway，untilweemergeduponopencountrybeyondtheoutskirts。

Wewerenowoncemoreuponaflattable-top，aboutahundredfeetabovetheplainbetweenusandthesea，amileandahalfdistant。Theedgeofthetable-landformedacliff，chokedfromitsbasewithhugefallenblocksofsedimentarylimestone，fromthecrevicesofwhichtreesgrewingreatprofusion，remindingoneofhangingcovertsuponhill-sidesinEngland。Descendingasteepbutwell-troddenpathbetweenthesecottage-likemassesofdisjointedrock，wearrivedattheprettiestcamping-groundthatIhadseeninCyprus。ThishadformedthecampoftheIndiantroopswhentheoccupationhadtakenplaceinJuly，1878，andunfortunatelyinthischarmingspottheyhadsufferedseverelyfromfever。

TheseaandthetownandportofBaffolaybeforeus，butimmediatelyinfrontoftherockyandtree-coveredheightsthatwehaddescendedweregreatnumbersofpark-liketreeswhichIhadneverbeforemetwith。

Thesewereoflargesize，manyexceedingfourteenfeetingirth，withabeautifulfoliagethatthrewadenseshadebeneath。ThenameofthistreeisTremithia，anditbearsasmallfruitinclustersofberrieswhichproduceoil：thisisusedbytheinhabitantsforthesamepurposesasthatobtainedfromolives。IhadmetwiththebushinawildstateforthefirsttimeatLapithus，andhadbeenattractedbythearomaticscentoftheyoungleaves，butIwasnotawarethatitgrewtothesizeofaforest-tree。Springsofpurewaterissuedfromtherocksinthecliff-sidewithinafewyardsofourposition；thesewerecaughtinlargereservoirsofmasonryfromtwentytothirtyfeetsquareandsixfeetdeep，fromthebottomofwhichthewatercouldbeliberatedforthepurposesofirrigation。Weselectedapositionuponaterracebeneathanumberofthesesplendidtremithias，whichaffordedashadeduringallhoursoftheday。Thelittlestreamrippledjustbelow，passingbytherootsofthetreesthatshelteredus，andwateredarichanddarkgreenplotofabouttwoacresof——neitherroses，norviolets，butsomethingfarbetter，whichatoncedelightedourcookChristo——onions！AccordingtohispracticalideastheGardenofEdenwouldhavebeenamerewildernessintheabsenceofabedofonions；butatlengthwehadentereduponParadise；thisWASacharmingplace！Forsomedistancebeyondthiscaptivatingplotthetremithias(whichatadistanceresembledfine-headedoaks)ornamentedthesurfaceandgaveapark-likeappearancetothecountry；butbeyondthemtheplainwasagentleslope，highlycultivatedtowardsthesea。Longbeforethearrivalofourbaggageanimalswehadvisitors；CaptainWauchope，thechiefcommissionerofthedistrict，andseveralofficersinofficialpositions，werekindenoughtocall。Anoldmanandhiswife，theproprietorsoftheonions，wholivedcloseby，broughtussomerush-bottomedchairswithmuchcivility；andasthedayworeonalongstringofvisitorsappeared，includingtheBishopandsomeofthenativeofficials；andwewereofcoursesurroundedwiththeusualthrongofwomenandchildren：thesewerecleanerandbetterlookingthanthosewehadhithertoencountered。

Thecamelsdidnotappearuntillateintheevening，astheyhaddescendedthesteeppassfromthetable-landofArodeswithmuchdifficulty，andliani"s“antique“hadagainfallen，repeatedly，andnecessitatedadivisionofhisload，whichalreadyhadbeenreducedtothatofadonkey。

WhenthesunroseonthefollowingmorningIwalkedintoKtimabyagoodpath，thatledthroughtherocksalongthebaseofthecliffuntilitascendedgraduallytothetown。Althoughthecyclamenswerepasttheirbloom，theirvariegatedleavesornamentedthewhitestonesastheyemergedlikebouquetsfromthecrevicesoffallenrock。Therewaslittleofinterestinthetown，whichhardlyrepaidawalk：itleftthesamedepressingfeelingthatIhadsooftenexperiencedinourjourneythroughCyprus：“Thepasthadbeengreat，andthepresentwasnothing。“

Thelittleinsignificantharbourexhibitedafewsmallcraftofabouttwentytons。TherewasasmallfortandaBritishflag；therewerealsotheruinsofancientPaphos；buttherewasnothingtodenoteprogressorcommercialactivity。IntheafternoonCaptainWauchopewaskindenoughtoaccompanyusovertheruins。AsIhavebeforeexplained，thereisnothingofinterestuponthesurfaceofancientcitiesthroughoutCyprus。Anythingworthhavinghasbeenappropriatedmanyagessincebythosewhounderstooditsvalue，andbeyondafewfallencolumnsandblocksofsquaredstonethereisliterallynothingtoattractattention。

EvenGeneraldiCesnolaexcavatedinvainuponthesiteofancientPaphos，whichfromitsgreatantiquitypromisedanabundantharvest。

Thereweretwofinemonoliths，thebasesofwhich，restinguponafoundationofsquaredstones，appearedasthoughtheyhadformedtheentrancetoatemple；thesewerepillarsofgreygranite(foreigntoCyprus)abouttwenty-sevenfeethighandthreefeettwoinchesindiameter。

Therewerestonymoundsinmanydirections，andfallenpillarsandcolumnsofgraniteandofcoarsegreyandwhitishmarble；butbeyondtheseordinaryvestigestherewasnothingofpeculiarinterest。AsthereisnoauthorityequaltoGeneraldiCesnolaupontheantiquitiesofCyprus，Itrusthewillexcusemeforinsertingthefollowinginterestingextractfromhiswork，uponTheGreatCentreoftheWorshipofVenus：——

“Althoughthisspot[Paphos]wasthesceneofgreatreligiousevents，andwasotherwiseimportantintheisland，yetneitheraretheremorethanaveryfewruinsexistingaboveground，norhavetheexplorationsIhavedirectedthereatdifferenttimessucceededinbringingtolightanythingofinterest。Ibelievethatthisabsenceofruinscanbeaccountedforinthefollowingmanner。Paphoswasseveraltimesoverthrownbyearthquakes。ThelasttimethetemplewasrebuiltwasbyVespasian，onwhosecoinsitisrepresented；butasnothingissaidoftherebuildingofthecityitissupposedthatitwasleftinruins；probablythereforeduringthelongperiodthatCypruswasundertheRomanandtheByzantineruleagreatdealofthedecorativeandarchitecturalmaterialofPaphoswastransportedtotheothercitycalledNea-Paphos，andusedforitsembellishment。IntheActsoftheApostlesitisspokenofastheofficialresidenceoftheRomanproconsulPaulusSergius，andwasthereforethecapitaloftheisland。BythetimeoftheLusignankingsPalaeo-Paphoshaddisappeared，anditsruinsundertheirreignwereextensivelyexploredinsearchofstatuaryandotherobjectsofart，withwhichtodecoratetheroyalcastlebuiltinitsvicinity。ThereisscarcelyanyancienttombtobefoundofadateprevioustotheRomanperiodwhichhadnotbeenopenedcenturiesago。“

Inpage207GeneraldiCesnolagivesanillustrationof“stonefeetwithaCyprioteinscription，fromthetempleofPaphos，“whichwouldsuggestfromtheirappearancethatgoutwasnotuncommonevenwithinthetempleofVenus。Incontinuationhewrites，page210：——

“ThegreattempleofVenuswassituatedonaneminence，whichatpresentisatadistanceofabouttwenty-fiveminutes"walkfromthesea。Somepartsofitscolossalwallsarestillstanding，defyingtimeandthestone-cutter，thoughbadlychippedbythelatter。

Oneofthewall-stonesmeasuredfifteenfeetteninchesinlength，bysevenfeeteleveninchesinwidthandtwofeetfiveinchesinthickness。ThestoneisnotfromCyprus，butbeingakindofbluegranite，musthavebeenimportedeitherfromCiliciaorfromEgypt。

“ThetempleasrebuiltbyVespasianseemstohaveoccupiedthesameareaastheformertemple，andwassurroundedbyaperibolos，orouterwall。Ofthisafewhugeblocksonlyarenowextant。Onthewestsideofthisouterwalltherewasadoorwaystillplainlyvisible。Itswidthwasseventeenfeetnineinches。Thetwosocketsfortheboltsuponwhichthedoorswungareofthefollowingdimensions：

lengthsixinches，widthfourandahalfinches，depththreeandahalfinches。Thesouth-eastwall，Iascertained，byexcavatingitswholelength，was690feetlong。ThelengthofthewestsideIcouldonlytraceasfaras272feet，itscontinuancebeinghiddenbeneaththehousesofKouklia。ThelengthoftheothertwosidesIwasunabletoascertainforsimilarreasons。

Thewallsofthetempleitself，madeofthekindofstonepreviouslymentioned，butnotinsuchhugeblocks，Iwasabletotracecorrectly，bydintofpatience；andthoughverylittleisseenaboveground，yet，strangetosay，thefourcorner-stonesarestillstanding。Thenorth-eastcorner-stoneiscasedinahouseinKouklia，formingpartofitswall；thatofthenorth-weststandsinacross-streetofthevillagebyitself。SomeEuropeantravellershavemistakenitfromitspresentshapefortheemblematicconeofVenus。Thesouth-eastcornerstandsalsobyitselfinanopenfield，wheretheChristianpopulationofKoukliaburnlampsandlittlewax-candles，butinhonourofwhom，orforwhatpurpose，Ididnotinquire。Thefourthcorner-stonelikewiseformspartofamoderndwelling-house。

“Thetemplewasoblongandofthefollowingdimensions：theeasternandwesternwallsmeasure221feet，andthetwoothersides167feet。IcannotvouchfortheexactmeasurementonaccountofthedifficultiesIhadtoencounter，neverthelessthedifferencecanbeofsomeinchesonly。Thecorner-stoneofthenorth-westsidehasaholeinitthirteeninchesindiameter；asimilarholealsoexistsinthesouth-westcorneroftheouterwall。AsthetempleatPaphospossessedanoracle，thesestrangeholes，whichgothroughtheentirestone，mayhavebeenconnectedwithit。ThisatleastwastheopinionofDr。

FriederichswhenhecametopaymeavisitatPaphos。

“Fromthisspot，ifapersonstanduponthishugeperforatedstone，hecanproduceaclearandfineechoofaphraseofthreeorfourwords，pronouncedinahollowtoneofvoice。“

Itisquitepossiblethatthetricksofacousticsmayhavebeenpractisedbythepriestswhoofficiatedatoracularshrines，whichwouldhaveawedtheignorantmultitude；asinsacredgrovesatreemighthavebeenmadetospeakbythesimplecontrivanceofamanconcealedwithinthehollowstem，whichtooutwardappearancewouldhavebeenconsideredsolid。Thedevicesofpriestcrafttobringgristtotheirmillarenotyetobsolete，aswillbeseeninmanyofthemonasteriesofCyprus。

AllthegrandeurofancientdayswasnowrepresentedbytheheapsofstonesandtherockcavernswhichmarkthesiteofPaphos。WhatbecameofVenusafterherappearanceuponthisshoremaybelefttotheimagination；whysheisrepresentedbytheexceedinglyplainwomenofmodernCyprussurpassestheimagination。Perhapstheimmoralityconnectedwiththeancientworshipofthegoddessofbeautyandofloveinvokedacurseuponthedescendantsintheshapeof“baggytrousers，highboots，andugliness：“towhichdirthasbeenapainfuladdition。

CHAPTERIX。

FROMBAFFOTOLIMASOL。

WeleftKtimaon23rdAprilforLimasol。Theweatherwasnowperfectforout-doorlife，thethermometer52degreesat7A。M。，and70degreesat3

P。M。Theroutewasagreeable，thecropswerewellirrigatedbynumerousstreamsledfromthemountains，andthecountrygenerallywasgreenandwellwooded。Afteramarchoffourteenmiles，duringwhichwehadpassedtheruinsofseveralancientaqueducts，wearrivedatarunningstreamwhichissuedfromanarrowvalleybetweencliffsandhillsandemptieditselfuponthesea-beach。Anumberoftamarisksformedajunglenearthemouth，andthebankswereabrightrose-colour，owingtothefullbloomofthicketsofoleanders。Thiswasacharminghalting-place，andasthebeachwasstrewnwithdrytimberthathadbeenbroughtdownfromthemountainsduringtheseasonwhenthestreamwaspowerful，weshouldhaveagoodsupplyoffuelinadditiontofreshwater。TheroutehadbeenalongtheflatparallelwiththeseafromKtima，andInoticedawonderfulchangeinthepaceofthecamels，asIhadsummonedIianiwhenatthecapitalofthedistrictbeforetheCadiattheKonak，andthechiefcommissionerhadaddedhisvoicetothethreatandmonitionshehadreceivedconcerninghisfutureconductregardingearlystartingandattentiontomyorders。CaptainWauchopehadkindlyfurnishedmewithanexcellentTurkishzaphtieh，ormountedpoliceman，whoseredjacketandfezcommandedacertainrespect。Thismanwasmounteduponastrong，well-built，andexceedinglyactivepony，orsmallhorse，whichledtheway，asournewguidethoroughlyknewthecountry。

Whileallhandswerepitchingthetentuponasandyturfwithinafewyardsofthesea-beachItookthedogsforarambleupthethickly-woodedvalleyalongthebanksofthestream，asIhadobservedanumberofblue-rockpigeonsamongthewhitecliffs，andIthoughtI

mightperhapsfindaharefortheeveningstew。Ikilledsomepigeons，butdidnotmoveahare，althoughthedogsworkedthroughmostpromisingground，wheregreencropsupontheflatbottomsurroundedbythickcovertsaffordbothfoodandshelter。WewerereturningtocampwhenI

suddenlyheardMerryandShotbarkingsavagelyinsomethickbushesuponthesteepbankofthestream。AtfirstIthoughttheyhadfoundahedgehog，whichwasalwaysShot"samusement，asheconstantlybroughtthemintocampafterhehadmanagedtoobtainaholdoftheirpricklybodies。Thebarkingcontinued，andasIcouldnotpenetratethebush，I

calledthedogsoff。Theyjoinedmealmostimmediately，lookingratherscared。Itnowoccurredtomethattheymighthavefoundasnake，asafewdaysagoIhadheardMerrybarkinginasimilarmanner，anduponjoininghimIhaddiscoveredasnakecoiledupwithheaderectinanattitudeofdefence。Ihadkilledthesnakeandscoldedthedog，asI

fearedhewouldcometoanuntimelyend，shouldhecommencesnake-

huntinginsoprolificafieldasCyprus。Sincethattimeallthedogshuntedthecountlesslizardswhichranacrossthepathduringthemarch，andShotwasmostdeterminedinhisendeavourstoscratchthemoutoftheirholes。

Ihadcalledmythreedogstogether，andwewerewalkingacrossafieldofgreenwheat，whenIsuddenlymissedShot，andhewasdiscoveredlyingdownaboutfiftypacesinourrear。Merry，whousuallywaspluckandenergyitself，wasfollowingatmyheelsandlookingstupidandsubdued。

Thisdogwasindomitable，andhisfaultwaswildnessatthecommencementoftheday；Icouldnotnowinducehimtohunt，andhiseyeshadapeculiarexpression，asthoughhissystemhadsufferedsomesevereshock。ShotcameslowlywhenIcalledhim，buthewalkedwithdifficulty，andhisjawswereswollen。Inowfeltsurethatthedogswerebittenbyasnake，whichtheyhadbeenbayingwhenIheardtheminthebushaboutfiveminutesbefore。Wewereverynearthecamp，andthedogcrepthomeslowlyatmyheels。Uponexaminationtherewasnodoubtofthecause；Shothadwoundsofasnake"sfangsuponhislip，undertheeye，andupononeear；hemusthavebeenthefirstbitten，ashehadevidentlyreceivedthegreatestdischargeofpoison。Merrywasbitteninthemouthandinoneear，bothofwhichwerealreadyswollen，butnottothesamedegreeasShot，who，withinanhour，hadaheadaslargeasasmallcalf"s，andhiseyeswerecompletelyclosed。Ihadnottheslightesthopeofhisrecovery，ashisthroathadswollentoanenormoussize，whichthreatenedsuffocation。Icoulddonothingforthepoordogsbutoiltheirmouths，althoughknewthatthepoisonwouldassuredlyspreadthroughoutthesystem。Thedogshadbeenbittenatabout3。40

P。M。At8P。M。(ourdinner-hour)Shotwasashapelessmass，andhislimbswerestiff；theskinofhisthroatandfore-partofhisbodybeneathhiscurlywhiteandliver-colouredhairwasperfectlyblack；hisjowl，whichnowhungthreeinchesbelowhisjaws，wasalsoinkyblack，aswerehisswollentongueandpalate。Merry"sheadandthroatwereswollenbadly，andhelaybytheblazingfireoflogshalfstupefiedanddevoidofobservation。

OnthefollowingmorningShotwasevidentlydying；hedidnotappeartosufferpain，butwasinastateofcomaandswelledtosuchadegreethatheresembledtheskinofananimalthathadbeenbadlystuffedwithhay。Merrywasworsethanontheprecedingnight，andlayinastateofstupor。Icarriedhimtotheseaanddippedhimseveraltimesbeneaththewater；thisappearedslightlytorevivehim，andhewasplacedinalargesaddle-bagtobecarriedonamulefortheday"smarch。Shothadbeenquiteunconscious，andwhenthemenpreparedananimaltocarryhim，itwasfoundthathewasalreadydead。Thiswasalittleafter8

A。M。，andhehadbeenbittenatabout3。40P。M。：about16andahalfhourshadelapsed。Mymendugagraveandburiedthepooranimal，whohadbeenafaithfuldogandanexcellentretriever。FromMerry"sappearanceIexpectedthatweshouldhavetoattendtohisremainsinthesamemannerbeforetheevening。

SnakesareverynumerousinCyprus，butIcannotbelieveinanygreatdangerifthesegenerallyhatedcreaturesshouldbeavoided。Ifdogswillinsistuponhuntingandattackingthem，theymustbebittenasanaturalconsequence；inthisfatalcasetherecanbenodoubtthatthedogShotwasthefirsttodiscoverandattackthesnake，andMerry，uponhearinghimbark，joinedinthefight。Itisquiteunnaturalforanyoftheserpenttribetoattack，exceptforthepurposeofdevouringtheirnaturalprey。Asageneralrule，thefoodofsnakesconsistsofrats，mice，frogs，ortoads，beetles，andotherinsects；thepythonsandlargerserpentsfeeduponsuchanimalsashares，birds，andtheyoungofeitherantelopes，deer，pigs，&c。Althoughasnakeiftroddenuponmightbyaspasmodicimpulseinflictabite，itwouldninetimesoutoftenendeavourtoescape。Theideaofanysnakewilfullyandmaliciouslypremeditatinganattackuponamanisquiteoutofthequestion，unlessithasbeeneitherteasedorexcitedbyadogwhenhunting。Thesameprinciplewillholdgoodinthecaseofanimals。Nosnakethatfeedsonlyuponrats，mice，andsuchsmallanimalswouldseektoattackadog，oranycreaturethatwasnotitsnaturalprey，andtheactualdangerfromsuchreptilesisquiteinsignificant。Thestoriesthatarecirculatedofaccidentsaremostlyexaggerated，orareperpetuatedbyconstantrepetition。IhavebeeninsnakecountriessuchasCeylonandAfricaduringmanyyears，thegreaterportionofwhichhasbeenpassedinpracticalexplorations，andIcansafelysaythatIneverthoughtofsnakesuntiltheymetmyeye，andnopersonthatIeverknewwaskilledbyapoisonousbite。InCyprusthereareseveralvarieties。Ihaveonlyseenthree，ablackspecieswhichisharmless，amottledvarietyalsonon-poisonous，andagreysnakethatissupposedtobedeadly；theremaybemore，butIhavenevermetwiththem。Thestonynatureofthecountry，andthebush-coveredsurfaceofthehills，togetherwiththedrynessoftheclimate，areallfavourabletothedevelopmentofsnakesandlizards。Thelatterareexceedinglynumerous，andaremostvaluabledestroyersofinsects；thereareseveralvarieties，butthemostcommonisthebrightcopper-colouredspecieswithasmoothskin。Thechameleonalsoexists。

Althoughwehadnevertakenthepresenceofsnakesintoseriousconsideration，thehorribleeffectofthebiteuponthedogsmadeeveryoneonthealertduringthemarchovertherockyandbushycountryfromourcamptoEvdimu。Ourguidescornedabeatentrack，andafterhavingkepttheregularpathalongthesea-coastforamile，hestruckdirectlyupthemountain，whichdescendedinasteepclifftotheshore，againstwhichthewavesdashedwithviolence。Thecountrywasexceedinglywildforsomemilesasweascendedthroughbushofyoungpines，dwarf-cypress，andmastic，occasionallypassingpinesoflargergrowth，whichhad，asusual，beenmutilated。Wemovedpartridgesinseveralplaces，butthesewereoldbirdspackedinconsiderablenumbers：

abadsignatthisseason，whentheyshouldhavebeensittinguponeggs。

Atanelevationofabout1000feetabovetheseawecameuponaparkofcaroub-trees，inwhichwasaspringofwater；largeflocksofgoatsandcattle，togetherwithmanymulesandhorses，wereroamingthroughthisverdantdistrict，whichaffordedabundantpasturageintheshapeofwildartichokes，avarietyofsucculentthistles，andmanyplantssuitabletothenativeanimalsintheabsenceofactualgrasses。ThisisadistressingwantthroughoutCyprus；whenthecountryisgreen，theverdureisproducedbycultivatedcropsofcereals，whichquicklychangetoyellowastheyripen；allthenaturalproductionsoftheeartharewhatinEnglandweshouldterm“weeds“——thereisnorealgrass，exceptinsomerarelocalitieswhereaspeciesof“couch-grass“(theBritishfarmer"senemy)crawlsalongthesurface，beingnourishedbyitsknottyroots，which，penetratingintothedeepsoil，areenabledtoescapetheburningsun。

Uponreachingthesummit，about1200feetabovethesea，welookedovertherichestlandscapethatIhadseeninCyprus。Asuccessionofbroadvalleysandundulatinghillsgraduallyascended，untilinthefardistancetheyterminatedinelevatedplateauxupwardsof2000feetabovethesea。Thewholeofthisdistrict，asfarandnodoubtmuchfartherthantheeyecouldreach，wasrichlywoodedwithcaroub-treesandoccasionalolive-groves，whilethedistantvillagesweremarkedbythepeculiarlight-greenofmulberry-clumpsandotherfruit-trees。Thebottomsofthenumerousvalleysweredarkwithwell-irrigatedcropsofcereals，andcontrastedstronglywiththoseofthehigherground，whichhaddependedsolelyupontheuncertainrainfall。

Therewerebeautifulsitesforcountryresidencesthroughoutthisscene，anditappearedstrangethatnohousewasvisibleexcepttheordinarymud-builtdwellingsinthenativevillages。Therouteoverthiscountrywasabominable，asitwasasuccessionofthesteepestups-and-downsintovalleysmanyhundredfeetindepth，whichnecessitatedascrambleuparockyzigzagforasimilarheightabove，toberepeatedafterwehadcrossedeachshoulderthatformedaspurfromthedistantmountains，thedrainagebeingatrightanglestoourpath。Everyplateauexhibitedthesamelovelyviewofthesea，cliffsofsnow-whitecretaceousrock，greenhills，anddeepvales，throughwhichastreamofwaterhadgivenbirthtoathickgrowthoffoliage。Afteramarchoffourteenmileswehaltedinadeepdellbeneathshadycaroubs，afewyardsfromabrookofclearwaterwhichirrigatedsomeoftherichestcropsIhadseeninCyprus。WhenthecamelsarrivedMerrywasverybad，andhisskinbeneaththehairhadturnedblack；helappedwaterwithdifficulty，ashistongueandmouthwereswollentoagreatsizeandwerealsoblack。AsthedogcouldnoteatIpouredaquantityofolive-oildownhisthroat。

ThelargevillageofEvdimuwasaboutamileaboveus，andwasdistinguishablefromtheheights。Anewandimportantchurchwasinprocessofconstruction，uponwhichsomeItalianworkmenwereemployed，andanairofprosperityinthisneighbourhoodcontrastedfavourablywithmostportionsoftheisland。Thecock-birdsoffrancolinswerecrowinginalldirections，andwhenramblingwithWise，mynowsolitarydog，vainlysearchingforahare，Ifoundseveralpairsofred-leggedpartridges，whichofcourseatthisseasonIrespected。

Themarchonthefollowingdaywasacontinuationofthesamebeautifulcountry，untilweatlengthreachedthetable-topofastupendouscliffperpendiculartothesea，whichwasheditsbase。Thepathwasinmanyplacesonlyafewfeetfromtheedge，andaffordedamagnificentview。

Thetable-landuponwhichwerodewascoveredwithevergreenshrubsandyoungpines，andthesamerichlandscapethatwehadadmiredonthepreviousdayextendedtowardsthemountainsoftheinterior。Theroadhadbeenasroughascouldbeimagined，andwenowdescendedthelaststeepinclinefromtheheights，whichledintotheplainbelow。Thesaltlake，whichaddsanimportantamounttotherevenueofCyprus，laybeneathusupontheright，intheheartofthepeninsulaofAkrotiri；

immediatelybelowweretheruinsofancientCurium，buttousinvisible……

WearrivedatthetownofEpiskopi。CaptainSavilethusdescribesit：——

“Apleasantlysituatedvillage，standingontheEpiskopiorLycosriver，andveryabundantlysuppliedwithwater。Thehousesaresurroundedwithfruitfulgardens，andtherearefieldsofgrainandcottoninthevicinity。Theinhabitantshavehoweververysmallholdings，andare，asarule，miserablypoor。InformerdaysEpiskopiwasarichcity，andcontainedintheVenetiantimeslargemanufactories；

ofitsancientgreatnessnowremaintheruinsofanaqueduct，immensestorehousesorvaults，andseveralruinedGreekchurches。ThespursfromMountTroodosextendnearlydowntotheshore，andtheroadfollowsthecoast-line，traversingaverybeautifulcountry；thegroundinspringiscoveredwithflowersandaromaticherbs，andtheravinesarefilledwithaluxuriantgrowthofcypresses，wild-olives，andfloweringshrubs。“

TherewasnothingtoinduceadelayinEpiskopi，butanadditionmaybemadetotheabovedescriptioninstatingthattheriverwhichhasfertilisedthespotandmadeitfamousoriginatesintheTroodosrange。

Lateron，duringthesummermonths，IoftenrestedatthefaintlydrippingsourceofitsfirstmountainaffluentnearthetopofTroodos，whichbydegreesacquiresstrengthfromtheOlympusdrainagetoformanimportantstream。

WepassedquicklythroughEpiskopiwithitsfruitfulgardens，narrowstreets，andyellingcurs。PoorWisewasnowalone，andwecouldnolongerexhibitacombinedfrontofthreeBritishlionstothesnappingcursofCyprus，thereforethedogWise-lykeptclosetotheheelsofourguide"sponyandjustbeforeme，which，withouttheignominyofretreat，securedhispositionfromallassailants。Wepassedbelowtheancientaqueduct，whichconveyedapowerfulvolumeofwatertotheturbine-wheeluponourright；andatlengthemergingfromthetown，weenteredoncemoreupontheplain，andsteeringforalargesquaretowerwhichwehadremarkedwhenatthesummitoftheheights，weshortlyarrivedatthethrivingvillageofKolossi，aboutamileandthree-quartersdistant。

Thislargevillagewasawavingseaofbarley，someofthefinestthatI

hadseen，andduetoartificialirrigation。Anancientaqueductofmasonryturnedamillclosetothelargesquaretowerthatwehadpreviouslyobserved。Wehaltedforluncheonbeneathanolive-treeafewyardsdistantfromtheaqueduct，inagardenoffruit-treeswhichwereinthebrightnessofaspringfoliage。

Thesquaretowerofmasonrymusthaveformedaportionofdefensiveworksthathavedisappeared，asthereisnoflankingprotection，butthetowerrisesabovetheplaintoaheightofaboutsixtyfeetlikeahugeblockofstone。ItissaidtohavebeenerectedbytheKnightsTemplars，andisofgreatsolidity；butsuchexperiencedsoldierswouldhardlyhaveconstructedsoimportantaworkwithoutdueregardtothefirstrulesoffortification。

Afterluncheon，thecamelshavingarrived，Iwouldnotallowthemtounload，butdirectedthemstraighttoLimasol。Ofcoursetheirownersdeclaredthedistancetobealongday"smarch，butasthemapshowedittobesixmiles，Iinsisted。

FromKolossithecountrywasperfectlyopenandcultivated；thepeasantrywereengagedinreapingbarley，whichwascarriedawayupondonkeys"backsinsteadofbeingconveyedbycarts。Theusualcaroub-trees，althoughplentifulupontherisinggroundinthedistance，werefewandfarbetween，andfromthistoLimasol，whichwasnowinview，thebeautyofthelandscapehaddeparted……Idisliketheapproachtoalargetowninasemi-wildcountry；thecharmingsimplicityandindependenceoftravellingisdestroyed，andtheservantsbecomemoreorlessdemoralisedbyaloveofnewassociationswhichproducesaneglectofduty。Iianiwaswithusinadditiontoourguidethezaphtieh，therefore，asanutterstrangertothelocality，Iorderedthemtoleadustoaconvenientcamping-ground。Asweapproachedthetownthereweretheusualminaretsanddate-palms，andseveralvessels，includingsteamers，werelyingintheroadstead。Wehaltedneartheentranceinaforsakengarden，wherethewallswerebrokendownandtheunwateredorange-trees，althoughinfaintblossom，wereparchedandfaded。Twoverylargeapricot-treespromisedashadeforthetent，butthesakyeeah，orwater-wheel，togetherwithtwopowerfulEnglishlifting-pumpsthatwereconnectedwithalargereservoirandaqueductofmasonry，wereinthelaststageofrustandrottenness。Iwasnotprepossessedwiththeaspectofthespot，asitremindedmestronglyofanEnglishpropertyinchargeoftheCourtofChancery。Thebaggageanimalswiththetentsarrivedwhileourpeoplewereemployedinclearingaspacebeneaththetreesfromtheinnumerablestones，which，asusualthroughoutCyprus，coveredthesurface。Theservantswerebusilyengagedinerectingthetent，whenalong，lankyindividual，witharepulsivecountenance，marchedthroughthelittlecrowdandhaughtilyinquired“whowewere，andwhatbusinesswehadthere？”

ThiswasthefirstinstanceofincivilitythatIhadmetwithinourjourneythroughtheisland。ThemanwasaTurk，andwasnottheproprietor，butonlytheagentforthiswretchedly-neglectedproperty。

Theunfortunateownerwassleepingwithhisfathers，orhewould，Ifeelsure，havewelcomeduswithtrueTurkishpolitenessandhospitalitybuthavingdepartedthislife，somelegaldifficultieshadoccasionedtrouble，andtheestatewasinthehandsoftheuncivilagent，who，ofcourse，beingnobody，assumedtheairsofsomebody，andendeavouredbyrudenesstoexhibithisimportance。Weweretravel-stainedanddustyasmillers，thereforeourpersonalappearancehadnotimpressedhimfavourably；hewasinathread-barelongblackclothhabitthatcombinedthecloak，dressing-gown，andfrock-coatinamannerinexplicable，andknownonlytoTurks。Thisgarmentwastrimmedinthefrontedgeswithrathermangy-lookingfox-skin：loosepegtoptrousersofgreasy-lookingcloth，dirtyandthreadbare，completedthecostumeofthegreatcuriosityofCyprus，“arudeperson。“

IwasnotatthetimeawarethatheunderstoodArabic，andhappilyI

addressedAmarninthatlanguage，expressingmysurprisethatinthiscountry，wherewehadtravelledsowidelyandfoundcivilityuponallsides，weshouldbesubjectedtosuchrudeness。Myservants，whoweremoreannoyedthanmyself，spokeratherloudly，andassuredhimthatifhewasaTurk，theirmasterwasapashaofhisSultan，andwewouldatoncequithismiserableneglectedgroundandmentionhisinhospitalitytothechiefcommissioner。Bythistimetherearbaggageanimalshadappeared，andtheimposingarrayofluggageandpeopleseemedtoimpresshimwiththefactthatwewereneithergipsiesnorvagabonds。I

explainedtohimthatweshouldnothavepresumedtointrudewithinawalledgarden，butastheoldwallshaddisappearedandtheplacewasinanopenandruinouscondition，wehadtrespassedinnocently。Hedisappearedwithanapology，butuponthefirstopportunityafterwehadexaminedtheneighbourhoodofLimasolwechangedourcamptoagoodpositionontheeasternoutskirtsofthetown。Thissidewasrichincaroub-trees，andhadgrassexisteditwouldhaveformedapark：thegroundslopedfromthemountains，aboutsixmilesdistant，graduallytothesea，thesurfacewasrichlywoodedbycaroubsthroughout，andthesoilwascultivatedwithbarley，whichwasalreadyinthehandsofreapers。Thereweresixcaroub-treesinalinewhichconnectedtheirshade，andwesoonclearedthecultivated，butwithered，surfaceofthelargeclodsofearth，which，havingbeenturnedupbytheplough，hadbakedbeneaththesunintothehardnessofbricks；thesewerearrangedinasquaretomarkthelimitsofthecamp，whiletheinteriorareawaspoundedtoproduceanevenfloor；fromthispositionwelookeduponthesea，aboutaquarterofamiledistant，anduponthetownofLimasoluponourright。

NotowninCyprusexhibitedtheresultsofaBritishoccupationtothesameextentasLimasol。Thechiefcommissioner，ColonelWarren，R。A。，wasanofficerofgreatenergyandability，andhehadgrappledvigorouslywitheverydifficultyandcleansedtheAugeanstablesthoroughly。Thetownisaboutamileandahalfinlength，andfacestheseainapositionsomewhatsimilartothatofLarnaca。Thequayiswashedbythewaves，whichinstormyweatherdashagainstthehouses，atwhichtimesitisimpossibletolandfromboats，andcrewsmustremainonboardtheirvesselssafelyanchoredintheroadstead。AlthoughnotsoextensiveasLarnaca，Limasolismorecompact，andthehousesandgardensaresuperior。Owingtotheactiveauthorityofthechiefcommissioner，thestreetswerescrupulouslyclean，andalltherefuseofthetownwasconveyedtoasafedistance。Apublicmarkethadbeenrecentlyarranged，coveredwithcorrugatedgalvanisediron，inwhichthedepartmentsformeat，vegetables，&c。，werekeptseparate，andtheappearanceandorganisationresembledamarket-placeinEngland。Thevariousopenplaceswithinthetown，insteadofbeingreceptaclesforfilth，asisusualthroughouttheEast，hadbeencarefullyplantedwithyoungtrees，mostofwhichwereexhibitingtheirfirstspringshootsandleaves。Thequaywhichfacedthesea，althoughexposedtotheunderminingactionofthewaves，hadbeenrepairedandwasinfaircondition；fromthisatolerablepierprojected，uponwhichpilesofgoodswerebeingdisembarkedfromthesteamerthathadjustarrivedfromLarnaca。Twosmalltugsranuponalternatedays，thusaffordingfacilitiesforpassengersandgoodsbetweenLimasolandLarnaca，whichwasagreatconveniencerecentlyestablishedtoavoidthedifficultyoftheroadlesslandjourney。H。M。S。Torchwasintheroadstead，togetherwithabouttwentyvesselsofvariousflagsandtonnage。SomeofthesewereloadingwineforTrieste，anditwasinterestingtowatchthesystemadoptedtosavethedifficultyofembarkingtheheavycasksinlighters，intheabsenceofcranesorwinches。Thebarrelswhenfullwereslightlyinferiorinweighttotheirdisplacementofsea-water；

theyaccordinglyfloatedalmostlevelwiththesurface，andwereformedintoachainoftwocasksabreastandaboutfiftyyardsinlength。Thusarranged，theyweretowedbyboatsuntilalongsidethevessel，whentheywereeasilyhoisteduponboard。Asboatscouldnotlieagainsttheperpendicularwallofthequayexceptduringaperfectcalm，therewasconsiderabletroubleincarryingonthecommerceoftheportaccordingtomodernrequirements；buttheinventionsofnecessityhadsimplifiedmanydifficultiesattheexpenseofincreasedmanuallabour。Boatslayafewyardsofftheshore，andwereloadedbymenwhowalkedshoulder-

deepwiththepackagesupontheirheads。Isawlightersdischargingplanksandbaulksoftimber，byshootingthemintotheseawithsufficientforcetofollowthedirectiongiventowardstheshore，whilethereceiversstoodinthewatertocapturethemuponarrival。

Theshopsandstoresalongthequay-facecloselyresemblethoseofLarnaca，buttherewasmoreactivityamongthepeople。Thestreetsofthebazaarwerethrongedwithmulesanddonkeysbringingtheproduceoftheinteriortotheshippingcentre，andthecrushofanimalshadbeencarefullymodifiedbythearrangementsinstitutedbyColonelWarren，whohadestablishedalargewalledcourt，orstable-yard，intowhichallemptymulesandassesweredriven，insteadofbeingallowedtoblockthethoroughfare；eachbeastpaidsometrifleforthisaccommodation，whichaddedtothefundformunicipalimprovements。

Thepublicofficeswereveryinferior，thatofthechiefcommissionerhimselfbeingasmallwhite-washedroom，whichexhibitedanutterdisregardofpersonalcomfortintheinterestsofgovernmenteconomy。

Thereisacuriousoldfortwithinthetownwhichhasbeenalteredandaddedtountilithasbecomeanabsurdity；thiswouldbeutterlyuselessasadefence，andtheTurkishgunshavingbeenremoved，itisnowconvertedintoaprison；beneaththegroundtherearedungeonswhicharenolongerused。

TheroadsteadofLimasolisformedbytheprojectionoftheAkrotiripeninsula，whichaffordsprotectionfromthewestandsouth-west，butitisdirectlyexposedfromtheeasttothesouth。Theanchorageissafe，withgoodholding-groundintenfathoms。ThepeculiarshapedpeninsulaofAkrotiriisaboutsevenmileswide，andthelakeinitscentre，whenfull，hasawidthofaboutfourmiles；butduringtheexhaustiveheatofsummeritevaporatestothedimensionsofamerepool，andleavesitsdesertedbedencrustedwithadepositofsalt。Thislakehasnoconnectionwiththesea，anditsmaximumdepthisunderthreefeet；thesaltisformeduponthesameprincipleasthatoftheLakeofLarnaca，andcertainlynotbythepercolationofsea-waterthroughthesand，astheLimasollakeisconsiderablyabovethesea-level。ThereisalighthouseatCapeGatta，whichcanbeseenatadistanceoffifteenmiles，asfromitselevatedpositionthelampis190feetabovethesea。

FromthispointtoLimasolthebeachislowandsandy，andhasalwaysbeenacceptedasthemostfavourablepointforadisembarkationoftroops。Withhistoricalfactsbeforeusthereissmallexcusefortheblundercommittedinlandingourarmyofoccupation，duringtheextremeheatofJuly，atLarnacainsteadofLimasol。Attheformerportthereisnotatreetothrowashade，andthemiserableaspectofthesurroundingcountrymusthavehadamostdepressingeffectuponthenervoussystemofofficersandmen，whileatLimasolthecountryisagreeableandtheshadycaroubsexistalmosttothesea-shore，innumbersthatwouldhaveshelteredanarmyofthreetimestheforcerepresented。IcannotconceiveofmoredeliberatecrueltyinflicteduponallgradesthananunnecessaryexposuretotheburningsummersunofCyprusinbell-tents，whenshadytreesexistedinsoconvenientalocalityasLimasol。IftherootoftheoffencecouldbetraceditwouldprobablybediscoveredthattheadvicehadbeengivenbysomepersonsinterestedinthepossessionofpropertyatLarnaca，whererentsofhousesrosefromniltoafabulousamountuponthedisembarkationofthetroops。AltogetherthismilitaryenterpriseofoccupationwaseffectedwiththeusualBritishconfusionandlackofarrangement。

Thecommissariatofcoursebrokedown，althoughspecialpainshadbeentakentosupplythetroopswithluxuriesthattoasimplemindareinconceivable；thusCOPPERWARMING-PANSingreatnumbersweresentout！

Asthethermometerwasabove100degreesFahr。，thesefieryfurnaceswerehardlyappreciated。Itisareflectionuponthewantofresourceexhibitedbytheauthoritiesthatthesepeculiarutensilswerenotsentoutasregimentalstew-pans，astherewasadearthofcooking-pots，andthewarming-pansmighthaveaddedmateriallytothecomfortsoftheinsides，insteadoftheoutsidesofthemen，byreducingthegutta-percha-liketextureofCyprianbullocksintoasavourystew。

Anothercomfortthoughtfullysuppliedbysomemorethanusuallyinsaneauthority，whonodoubthadpassedaseverecompetitiveexamination，wasexhibitedincountlesscoal-boxesofcast-iron！Thesecuriousdeviceswereaboutthreefeetsixincheslongbytwofeetandahalfdeep，andthesameinwidth。Tomyideastheywereonlysuitableforgiganticfoot-pansorhip-baths，orasanaquariumforayoungseal；buttheirrealobjectwastocontaincoalforthesupplyofthevarioustents！

Whatistobecomeofourcountry，exclaimstheBritishtaxpayer，ifthisfrightfulwasteistocontinue？Whattravellerorexplorerevercarriedwithhimacopperwarming-panandagiganticcoal-box，weighingnearlytwohundredpounds？Andtheseuselessabominationsaretohampertheoperationsofourtroops，andtowearoutoursailorsinthelabourofthedisembarkmentofsuchdisgracefullumber！ShouldweunhappilyinsomefuturepoliticalannexationsendamilitaryforcetoSpitzbergen，weshallprobablyomitthewarming-pansandfuel，butsupplyashiploadofrefrigeratorsand“FamilyIceMachines。“

Anumberofthesecast-ironcoal-boxeshadbeenconvertedintocisternsbySirGarnetWolseley，whichsurroundedthewoodenGovernmentHouseatLefkosia，andwerekeptfullofwaterincaseoffire。Sopracticalageneralwouldhavebeenthefirsttocondemnthepalpableabsurdityofcoal-boxes，evenhadcoalsbeenrequired；surelytheycouldhavebeenlaiduponthebaregroundbythetentside，insteadofcausingtheinconvenience，labour，andridiculeofimportingsuchoutrageousnonsense。

WhenthefamousmilitaryinvasionsofCyprustookplaceinhistoricaltimestherewerecertainlyneitherwarming-pansnorcoal-boxes，eitherwithRichardCoeurdeLionofEnglandin1191，orwiththeTurksunderLalaMustafain1570。

BoththeseexperiencedwarriorsselectedLimasolforthepointofdisembarkation，andlandedtheirtroopsandhorsesuponthesandybeachinAkrotiriBay。RichardI。wasonhiswaytothethirdcrusade；buthisfleethavingbeendispersedbyastorm，severalvesselshadbeendrivenonthesouthcoastofCyprus，where，insteadofreceivingthehospitalityusuallyexhibitedtoshipwreckedmariners，hispeoplewererobbedandthrownintoprisonatLimasolbytheking，IsaacComnenus。

OneoftheprincipalvesselsofthefleetwhichconveyedBerengaria，daughteroftheKingofNavarre，whowasthebetrothedofRichardandwasaccompaniedbyhissistertheQueenDowagerofSicily，tookshelterinAkrotiriBayandanchored。ItappearsthatthewilyIsaacComnenusendeavouredtopersuadetheladiestoland，inthehopeofeffectingtheircapture，andprobablyextortingaheavyransom；butsuspicionbeingaroused，theshipsetsailandwasshortlymetbyRichard"sownvessel。

UponhearingthathisshipwreckedcrewshadbeendetainedandimprisonedRichardimmediatelysteeredforLimasol，and，withhiswell-knownimpetuosityofcharacter，lostnotimeindisembarkinghistroops，andshortlybroughttheGreekarmytoactionunderIsaacComnenusandutterlydefeatedthem。TheLatininhabitantsofLimasolhadalreadythrownopentheirgates，andRichard，afterhisvictory，returnedladenwithspoils，includingtheimperialstandard，whichwaseventuallyhunginSt。Edmund"sChapel，Suffolk。

ThisfirstbattletookplaceatKolossi，neartoLimasol。AftertheflushofvictoryanadditionalwarlikeimpulsewasgiventohisforcesbythearrivalofthechivalrousGuydeLusignan，ex-kingofJerusalem，accompaniedbythePrincesofAntiochandTripoli。ThemarriageofRichardwithBerengariatookplaceatLimasol；shewastherecrownedQueenofEnglandbytheBishopsofYorkandEvreux。Richard，whodidnotprolonghishoneymoonwhenanopportunityoffightingwasathand，immediatelycollectedhisforces，and，togetherwithGuydeLusignan，marchedfortheinterior，whereIsaacComnenushadre-organisedhisarmy。GuydeLusignanwithadivisionofthetroopsmarcheduponFamagousta，whichsurrenderedwithoutresistance，whileRichardattackedtheGreekarmyunderIsaacComnenusintheplainofMessaria。Owingtothedisparityofforcethebattlewasforsometimedoubtful，andatlengththetwoleadersengagedinpersonalencounter，resultinginthecaptureofIsaacComnenusandthetotaldiscomfitureofhisarmy。ThecityofLefkosiaatoncethrewopenitsgatestothevictoriousRichard。

ThenextdisembarkationoftroopsatLimasol，on1stJuly，1570，undertheTurkishgeneralLalaMustafa，wasuponamuchlargerscale，astheexpeditioncomprised70，000infantry，30，000cavalry，and200cannon。

WiththisforceLefkosiawasassaulted，andtakenafterafewweeks"

siege；andtheinhabitantsweresubjectedtoinconceivableatrocities，20，000ofbothsexesbeingmercilesslybutcheredduringthesackwhichfollowedthecaptureofthetown。TheTurkishforcesthenmarcheduponthegreatstrongholdofCyprus，Famagousta。Thispowerfulfortresswasinvestedbylandandsea，andalthoughdefendedbyonly7000Venetiantroops，undertheirgallantcommandant，GeneralBragadino，itsustainedavigoroussiegeformorethantenmonths，untiltheheroicgarrisonwasreducedbysicknessandstarvation。DuringthistimeanextraordinaryapathywasexhibitedbyVenice，whichshouldatallhazardshavedetermineduponthereliefofthisimportantposition。On23rdJanuary，1571，theonlyeffectiveexpeditionenteredFamagoustawith1600men，provisionsandammunition，withasquadroncommandedbytheVenetianMarcAntoniusQuirini；butonthe1stAugustfollowing，theprovisionsandammunitionhavingbeencompletelyexpended，itbecameabsolutelynecessarytonegotiatethetermsofcapitulation。AdetaileddescriptionofthisinterestingsiegeisgivenintheworkofRichardKnolles，TheGeneralHistoryoftheTurks，publishedinLondonin1638。

Theconditionsofsurrenderstipulatedthat“Thegarrisonshouldmarchoutwithfivegunsandthehorsesofthecommanders，andshouldbeconveyedtoCandiaintheshipsandattheexpenseoftheTurks；thattheinhabitantsshouldbefreetoquitthetownandtaketheirproperty，andthatthosewhopreferredtoremainshouldbeunmolestedbothasregardstheirpersonsandtheirgoods。“*

(*CaptainSavile"sCyprus，p。22。)

GeneraldiCesnolawrites，page39：——

“TheseconditionswereeagerlyacceptedbythetreacherousMustafa；hostageswereexchanged；

Turkishvessels，asstipulated，enteredtheportofFamagousta，andtookonboardallthosewhowishedtoleavetheisland；nothingremainedbuttheformalityofdeliveringthekeysofthecitytothevictor。

“On5thAugustGeneralBragadino，accompaniedbyhislieutenantsBaglioni，Martinengo，andQuirini，wenttotheTurkishcamp，andwaspolitelyreceivedbyMustafa。Afterthedeliveryofthekeys，andwhenGeneralBragadinohadrisentotakeleave，thevileTurkaskedhimforspecialhostagesforthesafereturnfromCandiaoftheTurkishvesselswhichweretoconveyhimandhismenthither；Bragadinorefusedthis，asnothavingbeenstipulatedintheacceptedconditionsofhissurrender。ThenMustafaaccusedhimofbadfaith，andofhavingputtodeathfiftyTurkishpilgrimsafterhehadsurrendered，whichwasindignantlydeniedbyBragadino。Thepasha，becomingenraged，orderedthefourVenetianstobeputtodeath，andinafewminutesGeneralsBaglioni，Martinengo，andQuiriniwereexecutedinthepresenceofBragadino，forwhomamoreterribledeathwasreserved。

Theexecutionercutoffhisnoseandears；threetimeshewasmadetolayhisheadupontheblock，asiftobebeheaded，then，heavilychained，wasthrownintoadarkdungeon，andleftforninedaysinthatmiserablecondition。

“Onthetenthday，byorderofMustafa，Bragadinowasbroughtoutofprisonandmadetocarryearthfortherepairofthefortificationsduringseveralhours，afterwhich，moredeadthanalive，theheroicsoldierwastiedtoastake，and，inthepresenceoftheferociousMustafa，wasflayedalive。Hisskin，stuffedwithhay，wassentwiththeheadsoftheotherthreeVenetiansaspresentstotheSultan。“

ThetwomostimportantconquestsofCyprushavethuscommencedfromtheportofLimasol，whichisdestinedtobecomeofprimaryimportanceasthegreatcommercialrepresentativetownofthisnowpoorisland。

WeremainedsixteendaysatLimasol，duringwhichtimewehadthepleasureofthesocietyofColonelandMrs。Warrenandtheiryoungfamily，whichwethoroughlyappreciatedaftertheexilefromcivilisedlifeandladiessincewehadquittedKyreniaandLefkosia。TheleadingofficialsandsomeGreekmerchantsofthetownweregoodenoughtocallfrequently，andkindlyaffordedmuchinformation；atthesametimetheydidnotconcealtheirdisappointmentatthetermsoftheoccupation，which，bydrainingtheislandofitsrevenue，completelyparalysedthegoodintentionsoftheEnglishgovernment；thebestresolutionsbeingvaluelessunlesssupportedbythenecessarycapital。

AlthoughIreceivedeverypolitenessfromtheinhabitants，whoappearedtothinkIhadsomeofficialmission，itwasnotdifficulttotraceageneraltoneofcomplaintanddissatisfaction，whichwasperfectlynaturalundertheexistingregime。AlthoughnothingcouldexceedthepainstakenbySirGarnetWolseleyandallhisofficialstointroducereformsforthegeneralwelfareofthepeople，thetaskwassimplyimpossiblewherevariousinterestswereconflicting，andnoHYBRID

governmentcouldatoncedestroyexistingabusesandatthesametimeestablishlawssuitabletoallclasses。Thisgeneralreformrequiredanindependentadministration，untrammelledbymongrelrelationswiththeTurk，andequallyfreefromthevexatiouslabyrinthsofEnglishjurisprudence。Idonotwishtocataloguethelonglistofgrievanceswhichhavebeenentrustedtomyunwillingears，buttherearesomewhicharesoutterlydestructivetotheinterestsofthecountryandthegovernment，thatIhavenohesitationindescribingthem。

ThegreattradeofLimasoliswine，asthedistrictexhibitstheindustryfirstencouragedbytheVenetians；this，asthegreatmoney-producingcultivation，opposedtoMussulmanprejudices，hasbeenburdenedwithextortionatetaxationandrestrictions，whichhavenotyetbeenrelievedbytheBritishadministration。

CHAPTERX。

THEWINEDISTRICTOFLIMASOL。

InthefifteenthcenturytheCyprianvineswereselectedforthenowcelebratedvineyardsofMadeira；nothingcanbetterexemplifythestandardofindustryandconsequentprosperitythanthevine，whenweregardtheidenticalplantinthehandsofthePortugueseandinitsoriginalhomeinCyprusundertheTurkishadministration。ThefirsthistoricalnoticeofthevineoccurswhenNoah，strandeduponMountArarat，tookadvantage，uponthefirstsubsidenceofthewaters，toplantavineyard；and，accordingtothecurtbiblicaldescription，itgrew，produced，andthewineintoxicatedtheproprietor，allwithinafewdays。Itmaynothaveoccurredtothewinetradethatthisbiblicalfactprovesthattheconsumptionofwinehadbeenamongthefirstassumednecessitiesofthehumanrace；ifNoah"sfirstimpulseuponlandingsuggestedthecultivationofthevine，hewasrestoringtotheworldaplantthathadbeenconsideredsoabsolutelyimportantthathemusthaveprovidedhimselfwitheitherbudsorcuttingsingreatquantitieswhenheselectedhisanimalsfortheArkBEFOREtheDeluge。

Ifthisistrue，theuseofwinemusthavebeenpre-historical，anditsabusehistorical；thetwopurposeshavingcontinuedtothepresentday。

Itmaythereforebeacknowledgedthatnocustomhasbeensouniversalandcontinuousasthedrinkingofwinefromtheearliestperiodofhumanexistence。Thevineisamysteriousplant；itissopeculiarlysensitivethat，likeamusicalinstrumentwhichproducesharmonyordiscordatthehandsofdifferentperformers，theproduceofthesamevarietyisaffectedbythesoiluponwhichtheplantsaregrown。Thustenthousandyoungvinesmaybeplantedupononemountain，allofthesamestock；butvariousqualitiesofwinewillbeproduced，eachwithaspecialpeculiarityofflavour，accordingtothepeculiaritiesofsoil。Thesameestate，plantedwiththesamevines，mayproducehighclasswinesandothersthatwouldhardlycommandamarket，ifthesoilvariesaccordingtothedegreesofcertainlocalities。ItwouldnowbeimpossibletoproduceMadeirawineinCyprus，althoughtheplantsmightbeimportedandcultivatedwiththegreatestattention。WhenthevineswereshippedfromCyprusandplantedinMadeiraduringtheruleoftheVenetians，itmustnotbesupposedthatthosevineshadeverproducedwineofthewell-knownMadeiraflavourandquality；thatflavourwastheresultofsomepeculiarityinthesoilofthenewcountrytowhichthevineshadbeentransplanted，andtherecanbelittledoubtthattherichandextremelylusciousvarietyknowninCyprusas“Commanderia“wastheparentvineoftheMadeiravineyards。

ItiswellknownthatthecostlyexperimentsofacenturyattheCapeofGoodHopehaveverifiedthefactthatthevineistheslaveofcertainconditionsofsoil，whichimparttothisextremelydelicateandsensitiveplantaspecialflavourthatisincorporatedwiththewine，andcanneverbeeradicated。ThevinesoftheCape，althoughofinfinitevariety，producewineswithafamilytaintwhichisaflavourabsorbedfromthesoil。AnypersonwhoknowsConstantia，thelusciouswineoftheCapeofGoodHope，willatoncedetectthesoupconofthatflavourineveryqualityofwineproducedinthecolony。Itmaythereforebeacceptedthattheflavourofwinesdependsuponthesoil；thusitwouldbeimpossibleforavine-growertosucceedsimplybyplantingwell-

knownsuperiorvarietiesofvines，unlesshehashadpracticalexperienceofthelocalitytobeconvertedintovineyards。

ThisfactisthoroughlyexhibitedinCyprus，wherethepeculiaritiesofsoilsareexceedinglyremarkable，andcannotfailtoattractattention，eachofthesequalitiesofearthproducingaspecialwine。

Ifaplanterestablishesavineyardhewillnaturallyselectacertainvarietyofvine，andacorrespondingsituationthatwillensureamarketablequantityofwine；thusinCyprusacomparativelysmallareaoftheislandisdevotedtothecultivationofthegrape，whichiscomprisedchieflywithinthedistrictofLimasol。NowineismadeintheCarpasdistrict，nortothenorthoftheCarpasianrangeofjurassiclimestone；therearenovineyardsofimportanceinthewesterndistrict；

oryetintheplainofMessaria，exceptuponthewesternborder，intheneighbourhoodofDali，towardstheMakhaerasmountain。

AlthoughtherearemanyvarietiesofCypruswines，thereisoneprevailingrule：thewhitecommanderia，aluscioushigh-flavouredwine，isgrownuponthereddishchocolate-colouredsoilofmetamorphousrocks。

Thedarkred，orblackastringentwines，areproduceduponthewhitemarlsandcretaceouslimestone。Thequantityproducedislarge，andthedarkwinescanbepurchasedretailinthevillagesforonepennythequartbottle！——andinmyopinionareverydearatthemoney。

AccordingtotheofficialreturnskindlysuppliedtomebyMr。Robson，thechiefofcustoms，thefollowinglistrepresentsthedeclaredduty-paidproductionfrom1877to1879。

Spirits——Commanderia——BlackWines——

Okes2。75lbs。Okes2。75lbs。Okes2。75lbs。

1877-1878……155，451117，0002，500，000

1878-1879……430，000300，0006，000，000

Spiritisvaluedatabout2。5PiastrestheOkeCommanderia““2“““

BlackWines““1。25“““

Therateofexchange：9Piastresto1shilling=180perpoundsterling。

Itwillbeobservedthatanimmensedifferenceisrepresentedintheyieldofthetwoyears。Thisistobeaccountedforbythesuperabundanceofrainsin1878-1879，whichcausedagreatquantity，butbadquality，ofjuice，andthewineofthisvintageissoinferiorthatalargeproportionisturningtovinegar，andcanbeusedfornootherpurpose。

Thehabitofcalculatingbylowquantities，as“okes，“astheFrenchreckonin“francs，“isatfirstsightperplexingtotheEnglishmind，andconveysanerroneousimpressionoftheactualresults。IfthepopulationofCyprusisabout200，000，themaximumwine-cropof6，000，000okeswouldonlyyield30okes，or60ordinarywine-bottles，toeachpersonduringtheyear。Thelocalconsumptionisexceedinglysmall，whichcanonlybeaccountedforbythegeneralpovertyofthepopulation。

TheexportsaredirectedprincipallytothevariousportsoftheLevant，Constantinople，Smyrna，Alexandria，inadditiontoTrieste，andpartsofSouthernItaly。SomeofthedarkwinesareshippedtoMarseilles，forthewell-knownestablishmentatCette，wheretheyareusedformixingwithotherwines。ItshouldatoncebeunderstoodthatnoqualityofCypruswinesissuitabletotheEnglishmarket，astheyaregenerallyshunnedevenbytheEnglishresidingintheisland，wheretheirextremecheapnessmighttemptpeopleintothebadtasteofconsumingthem。Atthesametime，thesewinesarewellappreciatedbythenativepopulation，especiallythedarkastringentqualities。

ThedifficultyofintroducinganewwineiswellknowntoEnglishwine-merchants，andthemysteriesofthetradewouldsomewhatastonishtheinnocentwould-beconnoisseur。Therecanbenodoubtthatthepalatemustbeeducatedtoenjoyfinedrywines，preciselyastheearmustbeinstructedbeforeitcanappreciateclassicalmusic。Thereisaharmonyinthesensesofhearing，smell，andtastewhichistheresultofcivilisedlife；thismayberightorwrongphysically，asthenervesbecomemoredelicateandsensitive，whichmayaffectthebrainmoreorlessdirectly。Therecanbenodoubtthatitaffectsthestomach。

Certaincivilisedpersonsprefergameinastateapproachingtodecomposition；Ihaveseensavageswhoenjoyfleshwhenactuallyputrid，andaboveallhorrors，fishwhenstinking！Suchfoodwoulddisgustthecivilisedmanwhoprefershisgame“high，“andwouldperhapskillothercivilisedpeoplewhosepalatesandstomachshavebeeneducatedtoavoidimpurities。Inthesamemannerthepalatemustbeeducatedforwinesorotherdrinks。IgaveanoldpriestabottleofBass"spaleIndiaale；hecouldnotdrinkhalfaglassfulbutrejecteditaspicro(bitter)；thesameoldmanenjoyedhispenny-a-bottleblackCypruswine，reekingoftarandhalf-rottengoat-skins，inwhichithadbeenbroughttomarket——astuffthatIcouldnothaveswallowed！ItmustthereforebeborneinmindwhenjudgingofCyprianwines，that“Englishtastedoesnotgoverntheworld。“AlthoughtheBritishmarketwouldbeclosedtothecoarseandill-madewinesofCyprus，thereareothermarketswhichacceptthemgladly，andwouldabsorbthemtoahighdegree，weretheyimprovedbysuperiorcultivationandmanufacture。

AtthesametimethattheproduceofCyprusisnowaunsuitabletotheEnglishmarket，thereisnoreasonwhyitshouldbeexcludedatafuturetime，whenscientificcultureshallhaveenhancedthequality。ItshouldberememberedthatthepoorerclassesofGreatBritainwouldbeimmenselybenefitedbyabeveragethatshouldbewithintheirreachinprice，andatthesametimebesufficientlyinvigoratingwithoutthedirectintoxicatingpropertiesofspiritsorthesleepy，heavy，andthirst-increasingqualitiesofbeer。IfCyprusisatsomefuturetimetobecomeaBritishcolony，thewinetradewillbetheprincipalsourceofindustry，andshouldbedevelopedbythegovernmentwitheverypossibleencouragementtotheproprietorsofvineyards。Animprovedqualityofwinewillnotnecessitateanadditionalprice，but，onthecontrary，thewine-growingresourcesoftheislandaresoirrepressiblethattheyhavewithstoodtheoppressionofthepastandpresent，andwhenrelievedofthisincubus，notonlyshouldthequalityimprove，butthepriceshouldbereduced。Inthiscase，shouldtheCyprianproducebefavouredbyanominalimportdutyinEngland，thewinewillbewithinthereachofthepoorerclasses，andmayamelioratethatcryingevilofourcountry，“intoxication，“byweaningthespirit-drinkertoamorewholesomedrink。

ItmustneverbesupposedbythemostsanguinethatCyprianwineswillbefashionableamongtheupperclassesinEngland。IdonotthinktheywilleversurpassMarsalaormanyoftheCapewines。Englishpeople，asarule，objecttocheapwines，oratleasttheyarereservedconcerningtheprice，shouldcheapwinebeupontheirtable。Itisadangerousthingtomentionthecostofanywine，eventoyournearestfriend；

althoughhemighthaveenjoyeditwhenhethoughtitmusthavecostyou72shillingsthedozen，hewilldetectsomeunpleasantpeculiaritywhenyoumayfoolishlyhaveconfidedtohimthatitonlycostyou36

shillings，or，worsestill，24shillings。Hewillpossiblysuggesttoyouonthefollowingmorningthat“somethingdisagreedwithhimduringthenight，buthedoesNOTthinkitwasthe24shillingwine。“HereisthefaultofHALF-EDUCATEDpalates；theyexpecttoomuch，andareguidedbyfancies。Thesamepersonmightbebeguiledintothebeliefthatthe24shillingwinewasverysuperiorifhehadbeendeceivedbyanassurancethatitcost72shillings。Therearereallyveryfewamateurswhocouldvalueunknownwinesbythetestoftheirownpalates；butthechillyclimateofEnglandisadversetolightwines，andnecessitatesafullbody，withconsiderablestrength。

Thesherriesarealwaysfortifiedbyanadditionofbetween30to40percent。ofalcoholbeforetheyareshippedtoEngland，withoutwhichtheywouldbeunsaleable；astoourtaste，theywouldbeemptyandvapid。WemustthereforemakeaconsiderableallowancewhenjudgingofCypruswinesintheirpresentextremelyrudeanduncultivatedposition。

Nothingisadded，andthefollowingconcisedescriptionwillaccountfortheirdisagreeablepeculiarities。

TherearenoroadsinCyprusinthemountainouswine-producingdistricts，thereforeallagriculturalproductsmustbeconveyeduponthebacksofmulesupanddownthesteepestandmostdangerousrockytracks，apparentlymorefittedforgoatsthanotheranimals。Amulewilltravelinthisroughcountrywithaloadof250lbs。Thisseriousdifficultyoftransportwillaccountfortherudeandancientmethodofconveyingwineingoat-skins。“Nomanwillputnewwineintooldbottles，“referredtothissystemofemployingskinsinsteadofcasks，orotherreceptaclesthatcouldbecleanedandrenderedtasteless。Thegoat-skinwouldquicklyrot，unlessitwaspreparedbyaspeciesoftar；thusnotonlyisthenaturallyunpleasantflavouroftheskinimpartedtothewine，butthemixtureoftarrendersitcompletelyabominabletoanypalatethathasnotbeeneducatedtoreceiveit。LetanypersonconceivetheresultofpouringtenortwelvegallonsofChateauLafitteintoanoldanddirtygoat-skinthoroughlyimpregnatedwithtar，andcarryingthisburdenupononesideofamule，balancedbyasimilarskinontheothersidefilledwiththechoicestJohannisberger。Thisload，worthatleast70or80poundsatstarting，wouldtravelfortwodaysexposedtoabroilingsun，andwouldlieforseveraldaysbeforeitwouldbeturnedintothevatofthemerchantatLimasol。Bythattime，accordingtocivilisedtaste，itwouldbeperfectlyvaluelessandundrinkable；ifthebestwinesintheworldcanbethusdestroyedbyasavagemeansoftransport，whatmusttheeffectbeuponsuchinferiorqualitiesasthecrudeproduceofCyprus？Commonsensewillsuggestthatthefirststeptowardsimprovementwillbethecompletionofroadsthroughoutthewinedistricts，thatwillenablethetwo-wheelednativecartstoconveythewineinbarrelsdirectfromthegrowerstothemerchants"storesatLimasol。

Wewillnowcommenceatthebeginning，“thecultivationofthevine，“

andtraceitsprogressuntilthewineisreadyfortheconsumer。