第8章

Itwasadifficultclimbtothepathlesscragsatnight，butthelightwasglimmeringlike“thestarthatthewisemensawintheeast，“andthoughoccasionallylostatintervals，itguidedthepartyontheirway。

Uponarrivalatthecave，therewasnoinhabitant。AlampburntbeforeasmalleffigyoftheVirginMarysuspendedagainstthewallofrock，butnotraceofhumanfootorhandcouldbediscovered。

Suchisthelegend；andtheinexplicablemysterycausedmuchexcitementandagitationinthemindsoftheChurchauthorities。Atlengthitwasdeterminedthat，astheapparitionofthelightwasmiraculous，itwasincumbentuponthepeopletoerectamonasteryuponthesiteoftheappearance，contiguoustothenowsacredcave。

Thiswasanextremedifficulty，astheinclinationformedanangleofabout60degrees；andthemountainwashardgneissthatcouldonlyhavebeenscarpedbyexpensiveblasting。However，itwashopedthatablessingwouldattendthegoodwork；therefore，inspiteofallobstacles，itwascommenced，andmasonswereengagedfromthevillageofPhynitoarrangeafoundation。

Therewasnowaternearerthanthetorrentinthedeephollowhalfamilebelow，thereforeextremelabourwasrequiredinmixingthemortarforthewalls；thejarsinwhichthenecessarywaterwasconveyeduponmen"sshouldersuptheprecipitousrocksappearedtobeinfluencedbysomeadverse，butunseen，agency，astheyconstantlyslippedfromtheirholdandbroke。Duringthenighttheworkwhichthemasonshadaccomplishedinthedayfelldown，andwasdiscoveredeverymorningasaheapofruin；thebuildingcouldnotproceed。InthisperplexitytheChurchwasrelievedbyasupernaturalinterposition。Earlyonemorningajarofpurewaterwasdiscoveredinthesharpangleofthehollowbetweenthehills，exactlybelowtherachkooba，whereIamnowwriting。

Itwasevidenttothepriestlymindthatanangelhadplacedthisjarofwatertodenotethespotwheresomehiddenspringmightbedeveloped，whichwouldbeafavourablesiteforthenewmonastery。Theydug，andshortlydiscoveredtheexpectedsource。

Itwasthereforeresolvedthatinsteadoferectingthemonasteryclosetotheeffigyinthecave，wherebadluckhadhithertoattendedtheirefforts，itwouldbemoreadvisabletocommencethebuildinguponafavourablespot，wherealevelalreadyexisted，intheanglebetweentwomountainslopeswithinafewyardsofthespring；itwouldbeeasiertoconveythesmalleffigytothenewbuildingthantoerectthemonasteryclosetotheeffigy。Accordinglytheworkwascommenced：thewallsnolongerfellduringthenight，andtheunseenagencywasevidentlypropitious。

Uponcompletionofthemonasterytheoriginaleffigywasenshrined，andTrooditissabecamefamousasaholysite。Yearspassedaway，andthereputationoftheestablishmentwasenhancedbythearrivalofaladyofhighpositionfromBeyrout，togetherwithherhusband，aspilgrimstothenowcelebratedmountaincave。Theladywaschildless，andhavingpresentedahandsomeoffering，andkissedtherockentranceofthecave，inadditiontotheeffigywithinthemonastery，shewaitedintheneighbourhoodforacertainnumberofmonths，attheexpirationofwhichshegavebirthtoason。Themonksclaimedthisboyastheirlawfulprize，andhewasbroughtupasapriest；butthereissomediscrepancyintheaccountswhichIcouldnotwellunderstand，asitappearsthathisparentsinsisteduponhisrestoration，andthatanangelicinterpositionatlengthpreventedlitigation。Itmaybewellimaginedthattheresultofthelady"spilgrimagespreadfarandwide；thereputationofthemonasteryreacheditszenith，andalltheunfruitfulwomenflockedtotheshrinetokissthecaveandthepictureoftheVirginwithinthechurch；atthesametimeofferingacertainsumforthebenefitoftheestablishment。Thefrictionofconstantandoft-repeatedkissingatlengthbegantotelluponthesacredeffigy，anditbecamealmostwornout；itwasthereforedeterminedthatabeautifulsilver-giltVirginandChildshouldbesuppliedbyafirst-rateartistwhichshouldcovertheoriginalrelicwithin。ThiswasremarkablywellexecutedbyCornaro，andasmallaperturelikeakeyholeofadoorhasbeenleft，whichiscoveredbyaslide；thisismovedupononesidewhenrequired，andenablesthepilgrimtokissthroughtheholeapieceofratherbrown-lookingwood，whichisthepresentexhaustedsurfaceoftheeffigy。

Althoughdecayedbytimeanduse，themiraculouspropertyremainsunchanged。Thiswasexhibitedafewyearsagoinaremarkablemanner，whereachildlessladyhadbecomeoldinbarrenexpectation；butavisittoTrooditissaproducedthedesiredresult，andconferredmuchhappinessupontheoncedespairingwife，whonowbecameamother。Inadditiontoamonetaryoffering，thisladyhadpresentedtheVirginwithahandsomebeltwithmassivesilver-giltbuckles，whichshehadwornduringpregnancy。Thisofferingisnowsuspendedaroundthepresenteffigy，andforasmallconsiderationanyladyapplicantisallowedtofastenitroundherwaist。Theeffectisinfallible，andquiteequalsthatoftherockandsilverVirgin。Thisremarkableinductivepowermayperhapsbesomedayexplainedbyphilosophers，butitisnowexceedinglydangerous，andunfortunateresultshaveoccurred，wheninasuddenimpulseofdevotionyoungmaidenshavekissedtherockentrancetothecave，orimprudentlypressedtheirlipsuponthesacredeffigy。

DuringmysojournatTrooditissanoarrivalsofdespairingwivesoccurred，butintheexhaustedconditionsofthefinancethroughouttheisland，itwouldhavebeentheheightoffollytohavedesiredanincreaseoffamily，andtherebymultiplyexpenses；possiblytheuncertaintyrespectingthepermanenceoftheEnglishoccupationmaydetertheladies，whomaypostponetheirpilgrimagetothemonasteryuntiltheiroffspringshouldbebornwiththerightsofBritishsubjects。

IhavedescribedtheoriginoftheecclesiasticalretreatatTrooditissaasnearlyaspossibleaccordingtotheviva-vocehistoryrelatedbythemonks。Itisimpossibletogaugetheopinionsoftheworld，asindividualsdifferasmuchinnervousstructureandintheologicalcreedsastheydoinpersonalappearance；somemayacceptthemonks"

beliefimplicitly，whileothersmaysuggestthattheoriginaloccupantofthecavewassomeunknownhermitsecludedfromtheworld，whosesolitarylampburningbeforetheVirginhadattractedtheattentionoftheshepherdsfromthemountainopposite。Theoldmanmayhavefallendownaprecipiceanddied，leavinghislampstillalight；butitwouldbeunfairtointerferewiththeoriginallegend，whichmustremainwiththeusualcloudsanduncertaintiesthatobscurethetalesofcenturies。

About250feetabovethemonasterytheridgeofaspuraffordedalevelspacebeneathsometallpineswhichthrewawelcomeshade，andwouldhavebeenaconvenientcamping-ground。Thisspotwasoccupiedbytheroughestoflog-huts，whichhadbeenerectedbyashepherdashissummerresidencewhenthegoatsshouldbedrivenfromthelowgroundtothemountainpasture。ThismanwasoriginallyaTurk，andformedoneofapeculiarsectknowninCyprusasLinobambaki(linenandcotton)。ThesepeoplearesaidtobeconvertstoChristianity，butinrealitytheyhaveneverbeentroubledwithanyreligiousscruples，andaccordinglyneveraccommodatetheirprinciplestothesocietyoftheirneighbourhood。InaTurkishvillagetheLinobambakiwouldcallhimselfbyaTurkishname，asMahomet，orHassan，&c。，whileinaChristiancommunityhewouldpassasMichaelorGeorgy，orbyotherGreekappellations。Thename“linenandcotton“appliedtothemisexpressiveoftheirlukewarmnessandtime-serving，theirreligiousprofessionsfluctuatingaccordingtothedictatesnotofconscience，butpersonalinterest。Itissupposedthatabout1500ofthesepeopleexistinvariouspartsofCyprus；theyarebaptisedintheGreekChurch，andcanthusescapeconscriptionformilitaryserviceaccordingtoTurkishlaw。ThegoatherduponourmountainhadbeenaTurkishservant(shepherd)inaGreekfamily，andhadsucceededingainingtheheartofhismaster"sdaughter，whomhewaspermittedtomarryaftermanydifficulties。Thiswomanmusthavebeenverybeautifulwhenyoung，as，inspiteofhardworkandexposure，shewashandsomeatforty，withapairofeyesthatinyouthmighthavebeenmoreattractivethanthemysteriouslightinthehermit"scave。Itisoneoftheblessingsoffineeyesthattheyarealmostcertaintodescendtothechildren。Propertymayvanish，litigationmaydestroythesubstanceofaninheritance；buttheeyes，large，soft，andgentle，whichcanoccasionallystartleyoubytheirpowerandsubdueyoubyatear，arethechildren"sentailthatnothingcandisestablish。Evenwhentimehastrampleduponcomplexion，theeyesofbeautylasttilldeath。

ThechildrenofthisLinobambakiandhishandsomewifewereseven——twoboysofaboutnineteenandseventeen，andfivegirlsfromfourteentooneandahalf——allofwhomhadtheeyesofthemotherdevelopedmostfavourably。Icannotwelldescribeeveryindividualofafamily：therewerethetwohandsomeshepherdyouthswhowouldhavemadelevelgroundofmountainsteeps，throughtheirpowerandactivity。

“RightupBenLomondcouldhepress，Andnotasobhistoilconfess。“

TheseyoungfellowsmatchedthegoatsinclamberinguptherocksandfollowingtheirwaywardflocksthroughoutthesummitsoftheTroodosrange；andtheirsistersthelittleshepherdesseswereintheirwayequallysurprising，inhuntingrunawaygoatsfromthedeepestchasmtothesharpestmountain-peak。

Ihardlyknowwhowasourgreatestfavourite。Therewas“Katterina“

(aboutfourteen)toooldtomakeapetof，butagentle-characteredgirl，alwayswillingtopleaseandneveroutoftemper，andeveninthebig，hateful，beauty-destroying，highhob-nailedbootsshecouldrunupthemountainsoilandclamberlikeamonkey。Thencame，Ibelieve，ourbestfavourite，thebright，large-eyed，sparklingchild“Vathoo，“whowastherealbeautyofthefamily，abouttenyearsold；shewasfulloflifeandvigour，aperfectgoatuponthemountains，withamostlovelyfacethatwouldhavecharmedMurilloasasubject，withanextremeperfectionoffeatures，abronzedcomplexion，buthardlythesoftexpressionrequiredforasacredpicture；infactVathoowasaperfectlittlegipsybeauty，withperhapsmoredevilthanangelinherimpulsivecharacter。

Thencametherealgentlelittlefacewithgazelle-likeeyes，“Baraksu，“

abouteightyearsold：followedbyaminimumshepherdess，“Athena，“ofnearlyfiveyearsold，whoclimbedtherocks，shouted，andthrewstonesatherrefractoryflock，asthoughanexperiencedgoatherdofforty。Theyoungestwasjustabletostand；withapairofthebiggestblackeyes，andanaturalinstinctforgorgingitselfwithunripefruitsandhardnuts，which，addedtoitsmaternalsustenancethatitwasstillenjoying，provedthemill-likecharacterofitsinfantinedigestion。FortwomonthswethoughtthisyoungHerculeswasapromisingboy，untilbyanaccidentwediscovereditwasa“younglady“Linobambaki！WhenwearrivedatTrooditissathesechildrenwereinragsandfilth，butunderthetutelageofmywifetheyquicklychanged，andthenever-failingfountain，assistedbyacakeofsoapsuppliedoccasionally，effectedamarkedimprovementinallcomplexions。

Theywereremarkablywell-manneredafterthefirstnaturalshynesshadwornaway，andformedacontrasttochildrenofalowclassinEnglandinnevermisbehavingwhenintimate。Alltheselittlecreatureswereemployedincleaningandimprovingtheplace；eventheminuteAthenamightbeseencarryingagreatstoneuponhersmallshoulder，addinghermitetothework，andrubbingthegalledspotasshethrewdownherload。Thebrightthreepennypieceswereingreatfavour，andthechildreninvariablyhastenedtotheirmotherwiththeirearningsatthecloseoftheafternoon。Whenthecampandmonasterysurroundingswereinperfectordertherewasnolongeranyremunerativeemploymentforthefamily，excepttheuncertainandoccasionalworkofcollectingwildflowersforthetentandtable。ThemyrtlesbloomedinearlyJuly，andinthedeepravinebythewaterfalltheoleanderswerethenstillinblossom。Severalplantswhichwerestrangetomewereaddedtothecollection；thedaysweregenerallypassedbythechildreninmindingthenumerousgoatsuntiltheevening，wheneachchildbroughtsomesimpleofferingofflowers。Weboughtsheepfromthelowcountryataboutsixorsevenshillingseach，andVathoowasthespecialshepherdessofoursmallflock，forwhichshewasresponsible；theywereinvariablydrivenoutat4A。M。andbroughthomeat8toavoidthesun，andagaintakenoutfrom4P。M。till7。

InthissimplemannerwepassedourtimeatTrooditissa；myamusementsweremysmallgarden，writinganaccountofCyprus，andstrollingoverthemountains：thelatteroccupationbeingmostunprofitable，asI

destroyedallmybootsuponthehorriblesurfaceofloosestones，inwhichtherewaslittlegeologicalinterest，astheywereallgneissandsyenite，crackedandstarredduringaprocessofsubaqueancooling。Thedeplorableaspectoftheotherwisebeautifulmountainswasoccasionedbythewholesaleandwilfuldestructionofpine-trees，whichistheCypriote"sbanefulcharacteristic，andasthisisoneofthemostimportantsubjectsinthemodernhistoryoftheisland，Ishalldevotethefollowingspecialchapterentirelytothequestionof“WoodsandForests。“

CHAPTERXIII。

WOODSANDFORESTS。

TheclimateofCyprusisextremeintemperatureduringthemonthsofJune，July，August，anduntilthecloseofSeptember；throughoutthegreaterportionoftheislandthetreelesssurfaceabsorbsthesun"srays，andduringthenightradiatestheheatthusobtained，whichraisesthethermometerto90degreesbeforesunrise：whileatnoonitoccasionallymarks100degreesbeneaththeshade。Atreelesscountrymusteitherbeextremelyhotorcold，accordingtothelatitude；andwithoutacertainproportionofforesttherewillbeanabsenceofequilibriumintemperature。Mostpersonswillhaveobservedtheeffectofheatradiationfromrocks，orevenfromthewallsofabuildingthathavebeenexposedtoasummer"ssunduringthelongday。AtaboutsixP。M。，whentheairiscool，thesun-heatstoredbyabsorptionescapesfromitsimprisonment，andthermometerswouldexhibitadifferenceofmanydegreesifplacedattwofeetfromtheground，andatfifty；therocksandearthhavebeenheatedlikeanoven。Treeswillaffectthesurfaceofthesoilinthesamemannerthatanumbrellaprotectsanindividualfromthesurf，anduponloftymountainstheyexerciseamarkedinfluenceupontherainfall。Shouldthesummitsbenaked，therocksbecomeheatedtoahighdegree，andshouldcloudspassoverhead，thevapourwouldnotcondense，but，onthecontrary，itmightdisperseuponcontactwiththeheatedsurface。Ifthesummitswereclothedwithforests，therocksandsoil，beingshadedfromthesun，wouldremaincool，andthelowtemperatureofearthandfoliagewouldcondensethevapourandproducerain。Itiswellknownthattreesexertadirectinfluenceuponmeteorologicalphenomena，thereforeshouldforestsbetotallydestroyed，achangemaybeexpectedinthetemperature，attendedbyacorrespondingdecreaseintherainfall。Itisobviousthatshouldacountrybeentirelycoveredwithtreesandjungle，itwillbetoodampandunhealthyfortheoccupationofman；andshoulditbeabsolutelybarrenofforest，itwillpossessaminimumrainfall；thereforeinallcountriesthatareexpectedtodevelopagriculturalresources，thedueproportionsofwoodsandforestsrequirespecialattention。

InancientdaystherecanbenoquestionthatCypruswasrichintimber，andthatthemountainousdistrictswerethicklyclothedtotheirsummitswithvaluablewoodvaryinginspeciesaccordingtoaltitude。AttheriskofrepetitionImustdescribethequalitieswhichnowexist，andwhichwerenodoubtexportedfromtheisland，andbecamewidelyknownandappreciatedintheearlydaysofCyprianprosperity。

Oaks——Thereareseveralvarietiesofoak，butlargepark-liketimberofthisspeciesisexceedinglyscarce，andalthoughmetwithoccasionallyingrandspreadingtreeswithtrunksoflargegirth，theyareonlysufficienttoprovethedestructionthathasbefallentheirrace。Itismostprobablethattheoakwaslargelyexportedforship-building；butasanavailableforest-treeitmaybesaidtohavedisappeared。TheilexisthemostcommonofallwoodsupontheTroodosrangeanduponothermountains，butthenativeshavemadesuchconstantattacksuponthisqualityforthemanufactureofcharcoalthatitisseldommetwithasaforest-tree。Itisextremelyhardy，andthroughcontinualhacking，ithasgrownintodensebusheswhicharegenerallyabouteightfeethigh；

butinveryremotelocalitiesamongthemountainsIhavefounditintheshapeoftimbergrowingtotheheightoffortyfeet。Thereisathirdvarietywithapricklyleafresemblingholly，ofanintenselydarkgreen。

Pines——Ihaveonlymetwiththreevarieties——thePinusmaritima，Pinuslaricio，andthestonepine。Thelatterisveryrare，butmaybeseenatPlatraes。Thenativesinvariablypicktheconesofthisspecieswhengreenforthesakeofthesmallediblenutsaffordedbytheseeds。

ThePinuslaricioisahandsometreewithadarkfoliageandbranchesthatdroopregularlyfromthesummit，wideningtowardsthebase。Itisdifficulttodeterminethemaximumsizethatwouldbeattainedbythisspecies，astheCypriotesseldomallowanytreetoremainuninjured。TheusualsizeoftheLaracioontheTroodosrangeisaboutfiftyfeetinheight，withagirthofsixfeet，butIhavefrequentlyseenspecimensofninefeetingirth，andaboutseventytoeightyfeetinheight。

ThePinusmaritimahasalighterfoliageandthebranchesaremorespreading，butthesizeisaboutthesameastheLaricio。Boththesespeciesarerichintarandturpentine。

Cypress——Therearetwovarieties——thedwarf，whichcoverstheflat-toppedlimestonehillsoftheCarpasdistrict，andthefragrantspecieswhichgrowsupontheheightsofTroodosandallthatrangewhichextendstoPoli-ton-Krysokhus。

Thedwarf-cypressattainsaheightofabouttwentyfeet，andisexceedinglyhardanddurable。Thefragrantspeciesvariesfromthirtytothirty-fivefeet，withastemofsix，tosometimeseightfeetincircumference。Thewoodishighlyaromatic；andIhavealreadydescribeditasresemblingamixtureofsandal-woodandcedar。ThistreeisknownbytheCypriotesaskypresses，whilethedwarfvarietyisknownasthe“wildcypress，“andiscalledbythem“aoratu。“

Plane(Platanus)——Thistreeisgenerallyfoundintheravinesamongthemountains，onthebordersofstreams，andwouldgrowtoalargesize，butitsstraightyoungstemsaremuchsoughtafterbythenativesforvariouspurposes，anditisseldomallowedachanceofarrivingunscathedatmaturity。Itslightgreenfoliageishighlyornamental，mixedwiththedarkshadesoftheilexinthedeepbottomsofthegorges；andwhereveranever-failingstreamismetwiththeplanemaybeexpected。

Theelm，ash，maple，walnut，mulberry，peach，apricot，apple，pear，filbert，fig，plum，cherry，orange，lemon，pomegranate，arecommon，butastheydonotcomewithinthecategoryoftreesindigenoustothenaturalforestsoftheisland，Ishallnotincludethem。

Olive——Thewildoliveformsaconsiderableportionofthelowscrub-woodsoftheCarpasdistrict，andtheyoungtrees，whentransplantedandgrafted，becometheacceptedolivesofcultivation。

Thereisnoreasonwhythewildoliveshouldnotbegraftedinitsnaturalpositionthesameasthecaroub。

Caroub——Thistreehasalreadybeendescribed，butalthoughnotvaluableastimber，owingtotheshortlengthofitstrunk，itshouldreceivethespecialattentionofthegovernment，asitsproduceshouldbeextendedtotheutmostlimitofthecapabilitiesoftheisland。Ifthewildtreesweregraftedwherevertheyaremetwith，wholeforestswouldquicklybeproducedwithaminimumoflabour，andvasttractsofrockysoil，worthlessforothercultivation，wouldbebroughtintovalue，atthesametimethatthesurfacewouldbecoveredwiththemuchdesiredvegetation。

Tremithia——Thewoodofthistreeisofnovalue，buttheberriesareusedasasubstituteforolive-oil；asitgrowsinlargequantitiesasashrub，simplybecauseitisnotallowedthechanceofarrivingatmaturity，itistobehopedthatafewyearsofforestsupervisionwilladdthisshadyandhighly-ornamentaltreetothelistofthosecommontotheisland。Thearbutus，myrtle，andthemasticaretreesofsosmallagrowththattheycannotbeclassedwith“WoodsandForests。“

OneofthefirstactsoftheBritishadministrationwasastringentprohibitionagainstthefellingofanytreethroughoutCyprus，orthecuttingofanywoodfortheburningofcharcoal。ThislawforthepreservationofwoodsandforestsextendedtotreesuponPRIVATE

PROPERTYOFINDIVIDUALS！——thustheownerofagardencouldnotcutdownoneofhisowncaroub-treesiftheyweretoothicklyplanted；orifherequiredapieceoftimberformakingorrepairinghiswater-wheel。Anactfortheprotectionofcrownforestswashighlynecessary，butnolawsareofvalueunlessthemachineryexistsforenforcingthem，andatthepresentmomentthestringentenactmentagainstthedestructionoftreesmaybeevadedlikeanyoftheTenCommandments，becausethereisabsolutelynostaff，norspecialofficersforthesupervisionofwoodsandforests。Thisimportantsubjectrequiresaseparatedepartment，andnothingcanbemoresimpleifadministeredbypersonsqualifiedbyeducationforthedevelopmentoftreessuitabletotheisland。Thepovertyofthelocalgovernment，owingtothemiserableconditionsofourtenure，whichsendthecreamtoTurkey，andsucklethenecessarystaffuponthethinskimmed-milk，doesnotpermittherealimprovementoftheforests。Itissimplyridiculoustomakelawswithouttheactiveweaponstoenforceauthority；wemayaswellrestsatisfiedwiththegamelawsinEnglandanddismissourkeepers，asprohibitthecuttingofwoodinCypruswithoutsupervisingtheforestsbyastaffofforesters。

Ifthewords“Thoushaltnotsteal，“evenfromadivinecommand，weresufficienttopreventfelonyandpettylarceny，itwouldbefollytoincurtheexpenseofpolice；butweknowthatpracticallyalllawsmustbeupheldbyforce，representedbytheauthorisedguardiansofthestate。AtthismomentinCyprusthelawproclaims，“Thoushaltnotcutatree，“whilepracticallyyoumaycutasmanyasyoulikeinthemountainforests，asthereisnopersonauthorisedtointerferewithyouracts。

Somemiserableoffendermaybepounceduponinhisowngarden，nearoneoftheprincipaltowns，wherethelawSHOULDNEVERHAVEBEENENFORCED，asinterferingwiththeindividualrightsofprivateproperty；butinthesituationswheretheprohibitionisofthefirstimportance，thereisliterallynotanofficerormantopreventtheusualdepredations。

Why？Theanswermustbeaccepted。Thereisnomoney，andwecannotaffordanindependentdepartmentof“WoodsandForests。“Ifthecountryistocontinueinthisslip-shodformitisadisgracetoEngland。

Thereistimetosavetheforestsfromabsolutedestruction，andinmyownopinion，beforeanythingisdonebeyondthenecessaryroadsandirrigationloans，everypossibleattentionshouldbeconcentratedupontheprotectionanddevelopmentofforest-trees。

Thepositionatthismomentisasfollows。Throughouttheentiremountainrangetherearenot5percent。ofpinesfreefrommutilation。

ThewholeofTroodos，andthemountaindistrictsfromnearLithrodondotoasfarwestasPoli-ton-Khrysokus，arenaturallyadaptedforthegrowthofpinesandcypress，whichlovethesoiloftheplutonicrocks，anddrivetheirrootsdeepintotheinterstices，derivingnourishmentwherenothingelsewouldthrive。Uponthehighestaltitudesthereisnotadwarfshrubtocoverthesurfaceoftheloosecoffee-colouredrocks，whereinthewinterthesnowaccumulatestoadepthoftwentyfeet，yettherewefindthepinesandcypressintheirgreatestvigour；buteventothesesolitaryheightstheCypriotehaspenetratedwithhisunsparingaxe，andhascreatedadesolationthatmustbeseentobeunderstood。

Thereisnosightsoexasperatingasthisuncalled-fordestruction；itisbeyondallbelief，andwhentheamountoflabourisconsideredthatmusthavebeenexpendedinthisindiscriminateattackuponforest-treesTHATARELEFTTOROTUPONTHEGROUNDwheretheyhavefallen，theobjectoftheattackisatfirstsightinconceivable。Thesightofamountainpine-forestinCypruswouldconveytheimpressionthatanenemywhohadconqueredthecountryhaddeterminedtoutterlydestroyit，eventotheprimaevalforests；hehadthereforefelled，andlefttorot，thegreaterportionofthetrees；butfindingthelabourbeyondhismeans，hehadcontentedhimselfwithbarking，ringing，andhackingatthebaseoftheremainder，toensuretheirultimatedestruction。

TheextremeheightsofTroodos，shouldersandhead，areabout6300feetabovethesea，fromwhichaltitudethepinesandcypressdescendtowithin1500feetofthelevel。Thereareroughnativemule-pathsthroughoutthemountains，andthesure-footedanimalswillcarryamanwitheasewherewalkingwouldbemostfatiguing，owingtothelooserocksandsmallerstones，whichcovereveryinchofthesurface。Ihavewalkedandriddenoverthegreaterportion，butinallcasesIhavebeenovercomewithangeranddismayattheterribleexhibitionofwantonandunwarrantabledesolation。Ifahurricanehadpassedoverthecountryandtornupbytherootsninetreesoutofeverytenthatcomposedtheforest，thedestructionwouldbenothingcomparedtothatofthenativeCypriote，whomutilatesthosewhichhehasnotfelled；thewindwouldonlyupturn，butwouldsparethosewhosestrengthhadresistedtheattack。Magnificenttreeslierottinguponthegroundinthousandsuponthousands，untouchedsincethehourwhentheyfellbeforethemostscientificallyappliedaxe。Ineversawahigherexampleofwoodcraft。

Thetrunksofpinestwofeetindiameterarecutsocarefully，thattheworkoftheaxeisalmostasneatasthatofacross-cutsaw。Theselargetreesaredividedaboutfourfeetfromtheground，asthatisaconvenientheightforthewoodman，andsparehisbackfromstoopingtohisblow。Eachcutwiththeaxeisnearlyatarightanglewiththestemandsoregularlyisthecuttingconductedcompletelyroundthetree，thatatlengthonlytwo，oratthemostthreeinchesofwoodremaintosupportthetrunk，whichintheabsenceofwindremainsbalancedtothelastmoment，untiloverthrownbythewedge。

Uponfirstarrivalinthecountryitisdifficulttocomprehendthereasonforthisgeneraldestruction；butasagipsyinTurkeywillburndownahandsometreeinordertomakehiswoodenspoons，sotheCypriotewillfellalargepineforthesakeofthebaseoffiveorsixfeetinlengththatwillaffordhimawoodentrougheitherforwaterortofeedhispigs。Agreatnumberofthelargertreesarecutandpartiallyscoopedforfourorfivefeetbeforetheirdestructionisdeterminedupon，asthecarpenterwishestoprovethequalityoftheheart。Manyarerejected，andtheoperationproceedsnofurther；butthetreeremainsmutilatedforever。

Othertreesarefelledforthepurposeofobtainingtar。Beforetheyareabsolutelycutdowntheyaretappedbycuttingadeepincisionnearlyintothecentreoftheheart，likeahugenotch，andtheyareleftforatimetoprovewhetherthetarwillrun，asexhibitedbytheproductionoftheresin。Ifunfavourable，thetreeisleftthuscuttotheheartandblemished。Nearlyeverytreeisthusmarked。Ifthesignsoftararepropitious，thetreeisfelled，thebranchesarelopped，andthetrunkcutintosectionsandsplit。Allpiecesarethenarrangedlongitudinallyinarudekilnformedofloosestonesandearth，inwhichtheyareburned，andthetarasitexudesisledbyanarrowgutterformedofclayintothereceptacleprepared。

Shouldastraightpoleberequiredforanyspecialpurpose，alargepineisfelled，andthetapered，pointedtopiscutofftoaconvenientlength，thegreatsparbeingrejectedandlefttodecayupontheground。

Ihaveneverseenpit-sawsused，butasarule，shouldabeamorstoutplankberequired，awholetreeisadzedawaytoproduceit，andgreatpilesofchipsarecontinuallymetwithintheforests，wheresomelargetrunkhasthusperishedundertheexhaustingprocess。Iwasrathersurprised，whenthemilitaryhutswereconveyedatanimmenseexpenseoftransporttothemountainstation，thatafewpairsofEnglishsawyershadnotbeenemployedtocuttheinexhaustiblesupplyofseasonedwoodnowlyinguselesslyupontheground，thatwouldhavesuppliedallnecessaryplanksandrafters，&c。

Fires，eitheraccidentalormalicious，arenotuncommon，andIhaveseenhill-sidescompletelydestroyed。Atacertainseasonthepineschangetheirfoliageandthegroundbecomesthicklycoveredtothedepthofacoupleofinchesormorewiththedryandhighlyinflammablespines。

Shouldthesetakefire，theconflagrationinahighwindbecomesserious，andspreadstothetrees，whichperish。

Nothingwouldbeeasierthantodefendtheinterestsofthewoodsandforestsbyanefficientstaffofforesters，whoshouldbeHighlandersfromScotlandaccustomedtomountainclimbing，orEnglishgame-keepers，whowouldcombinetheprotectionofforestswiththatofgame。Thesemen，underthecommandofacertainnumberofofficers，shouldbequarteredinparticulardistricts，andwouldquicklyacquireaknowledgeofthelocalities。Thehighermountainswouldbetheirhomeduringthesummermonths，fromwhichpointsthesoundofanaxecouldbeheardfromagreatdistance，andfromthecommandingelevationadepredatorcouldbedistinctlyidentifiedwithagoodtelescope。TheCypriotesareeasilygoverned，andshouldafewsevereexamplesbemadepublicwhenthedestroyershadbeentakenintheact，anexceedinglysmallstaffofforesterswouldbesufficienttoinsureorderandprotection。

Thepineandcypressarethetreesmostgenerallyattacked，and，asI

havealreadyshown，thereisnodifficultywhateverintheirpreservationshouldtherequisitestaffofofficialsbeappointed。Itshould，however，beborneinmindthatthepreservationofwoodsandforestsisasimplemattercomparedwiththeabsolutenecessityoftheirextension；itisthereforedesirabletoexaminethecapabilitiesoftheislandfortree-culture。

WhenCypruswasfirstoccupiedbyBritishtroopstheEnglishnewspaperswerefullofsuperficialadvicesuggestedbynumerouswell-meaningcorrespondentswhowereutterlydevoidofpracticalexperienceintree-planting，andaunanimousverdictwasgiveninfavouroftheEucalyptusglobulus，andothervarietiesofthesametree，irrespectiveofallknowledgeoflocalitiesandsoils。

Theabsenceofmoneywouldbetheonlyexcuseforanydelayinexperimentaltree-culture。Theseedsoftheeucalyptusweresentoutinconsiderablequantitiestothevariouschiefcommissionersofdistrictsforcultivation，asthoughtheseoverworkedandill-paidofficerswereomniscient，andaddedthepracticalknowledgeofhorticulturetotheirmilitaryqualifications。EverycommissionerthatIsawhadafewoldwineorbeercasesfilledwithearth，inwhichhewasendeavouringtoproduceembryoforestsofthevarietiesofeucalyptus，tobeplantedoutwhengerminated——how，when，orwhere，hecouldnottell。Ofcoursealltheseattemptsendedinfailure。Thereshouldhavebeenanexperiencedgardenerspeciallyappointedforthepurposeofraisingandplantingouttheyoungtreesadaptedforthevarioussoilsandaltitudesofthecountry，andsuchtreesshouldhavebeenreadyfortheirpositionsatthecommencementofthewintermonthsinNovember。Thecommissionersworkedinthisnewoccupationwiththesamepraiseworthyenergythatdistinguishedthemthroughoutallthetryingdifficultiesoftheirappointmentasrulersinastrangecountry，where，withoutaknowledgeofthelanguageorcustoms，theyweresuddenlycalledupontoconferhappinessandcontentmentuponanoppressedpopulationbyadministeringTURKISHlawsintheessenceoftheirintegrity。

TheCyprioteshadexpectedtoseeEnglandandtheEnglishastheirrulers；butlikethewell-knownsaying，“ScratchaRussianandyoudiscovertheTartar，“theymighthave“scratchedanEnglishmanandhavefoundtheTurk，“intheactualregimethatwewereboundtomaintainaccordingtotheconditionsoftheBritishoccupation。

Thenativemindcouldnotunderstandthereasonforthestringentruleprohibitingthecuttingoftreesandtheycametotheconclusionthatourgovernmentcontemplatedsomeselfishadvantage，andthattheforestswereeventuallytobeleasedtoacompany。Whentheyshallseetree-plantingcommencedbythegovernmentuponanextensivescaletheywillbelieveintheundertakingasintendedforthewelfareoftheisland。

Wheneverthisimportantandnecessaryworkshallbeorganised，itistobehopedthat“commonsense“willbeemployedintheselectionoftreesadaptedforthevariouslocalities，andthatnoabsurdexperimentswillbemadeuponalargescalebyintroducingvarietiesforeigntotheislanduntiltheyshallhavebeentestedsatisfactorilyinbotanicalnurseriesestablishedatvariousaltitudes。

Therearevariouslocaldifficultiesthatmustbeconsideredinadditiontosoilandclimate；themostimportantisthepresenceofvastnumbersofgoatsthroughoutthemountains，thatwouldutterlydestroycertainvarietiesofyoungplants。Therecanbenodoubtthattheclimateandsoilarespeciallyadaptedfortheintroductionofthecommonlarch，whichwouldgrowquicklyintovalueforthemuch-neededpolesforraftersandbeamsfortheflat-toppedroofs；butthistreeiseagerlydevouredbysheep，goats，andcattle，andwouldbedestroyedinitsfirststageunlessprotectedbyfencing。Itwillbeasaferuletoadoptthenativetreesasaguidetofutureextension，asthevarietiesofsuchclassesasareindigenouswillassuredlysucceed。Thetwoexistingpinesareshunnedbygoatsevenwhenintheirearliestgrowth，andtheyaresoineradicablethatweretheforestssparedandallowedtoremainwithoutartificialplanting，intenyearstherewouldbemassesofyoungtreestoothickforthesuccessoftimber。Therain，whenheavy，washesthefallenconesfromthehighestpoints，andastheyarecarriedbythesurfacewaterdownthesteepinclinestheyhitchamongtherocksandtakerootineveryfavourablelocality。Herewehavetwonativetreesthatwillplantthemselvesandflourishwithoutexpense，invulnerabletotheattacksofgoats，andonlydemandingrestandtime。Ontheotherhand，theymightbeplantedatregularintervalswithsosmallanoutlaythattheirartificialarrangementwouldbeadvisable。

Thecypressmaybeextendedinasimilarmanner。

Thepresenceofseveralvarietiesofoakwouldnaturallysuggesttheintroductionofthecork-treeandthespecieswhichproducesthevalonia，whichformsanimportantarticleoftrade，andislargelyusedinEnglandbythetanner。ThiscupoftheacornoftheQuercusaegilopsisextremelyrichintannin，andrangesinpricefrom20to30poundssterlingpertondeliveredinanEnglishport。ItisexportedlargelyfromtheLevant，andtherecanbelittledoubtthatitsintroductiontoCypruswouldeventuallysupplyanewsourceofrevenue。

TheclimateandsoiloftheTroodosmountainswouldbehighlyfavourabletothecork-tree，*whichwouldafterthirtyorfortyyearsbecomeextremelyvaluable。TheboxmightbeintroducedfromthemountainsofSpain，alsotheSpanishchestnut，whichforbuildingpurposesisinvaluable，asnotonlypracticallyimperishable，butfire-proof。ItisnotgenerallyknownthatthewoodoftheSpanishchestnutissouninflammablethatitrequirestheaidofotherfueltoconsumeitbyfire；itmightbeusedwithgreatadvantageinmassivelogsforuprightpillars，tosupportbeamsofsimilarwoodinwarehouses。

(*ThecorkoakismentionedinsomeworksonCyprusasindigenoustotheisland；thisisamistake。Theilexisplentiful，butnotthecork-tree。)

Althoughthewalnutcannotbeclassedwithforest-treesindigenoustoCyprus，itflourishesabundantlyatahighelevation，rangingfromabout2500to5000feetabovethesea。AtTrooditissamonasterytherearetreesthatwereplantedbythehandsoftheoldmonk，myinformant，onlytwentyyearsago，whichareequalinsizetoagrowthoffiftyyearsinEngland。Theplantingofwalnutsshouldcertainlybeencouraged，asthewoodisextremelyvaluable；atthesametimethatthecropyieldsanannualrevenue。

ThepreservationandextensionofthewoodsandforeststhroughoutthemountainousdistrictsofCyprusareasimpleaffair，whichonlyrequirescapitalandcommonsensecombinedwiththeusualnecessaryexperience。

Thereareotherportionsoftheislandwhichrequireadifferenttreatment。

ItisthefashiontoaccrediteveryportionofCyprusastree-bearinginitsearlyhistory，butifthestudentwillcomparethelargepopulationreportedtohaveexistedatthattimewiththesuperficialareaoftheisland，itwillbeplainlyseenthataverylargeproportionmusthavebeenundercultivation，otherwisesuppliesmusthavebeenimported。I

havebeforementionedmyopinionthatthehardbaresurfaceofthedenudedcretaceoushillscouldneverhavebornetimber，neitherdoI

believeinthetraditionsconcerningforestsintheplainofMessaria，forthesimplereasonthatitmusthavebeenthecereal-producingareaoftheisland。

Theancientforestsmusthaveexistedwherethevestigesremaintothepresentday，inwhichlocalitiesthenaturalinclinationofthesoilistoproducetrees，whicharestillrepresented，inspiteofthehideousdestructionperpetratedbytheinhabitantsduringmanycenturies。ThesepositionsincludetheentireCarpasdistrict，togetherwiththelongrangeofcompactlimestonemountainsformingthenorthernwalloftheisland，thenortherncoastandwestern，comprisingthecountrybetweenPoli-ton-Khrysokhus，andBaffo，andthecentralandcoast-linefromBaffotoLimasol，withexceptionsoflandshereandtherecultivatedwithcereals。Thegreaterportionofthemountainsthatarenowoccupiedwithvineyardswereoriginallyforests，whichhavebeenclearedspeciallyforthecultivationofthevine。Ihaveseengroundatanelevationof4800feetwherethevineyardsoriginallyexisteduponclearedforestsoil，which，havingbeenabandoned，isrelapsingintoitsformerstate，becomingmoreorlesscoveredwithpinesasbirdsmayhavedroppedtheseeds，ortheconesmayhavebeendrivenfromhigheraltitudesbywindandrain。

Thequestionthatmustnowbedeterminedisthis：“Whatportionsoftheislandaretoberestoredtoforest？”Anypersonwhohascarefullyexaminedthecountrycanreplywithouthesitation，“Plantalluselesslandswithtrees；thoseuselesslandsarealreadymoreorlesscoveredwithbushorwoods，anddenotetheirownposition，intheCarpas，theTroodos，andallmountainandhillranges。“

Whereancientforestshavedisappearedinfavourofcultivation，itwouldbefollytoconvertanimprovementintotheoriginalwilderness。

Thatquestioniseasilysimplified，andwhenthedepartmentofWoodsandForestsshallbeestablished，afewyearsofenergywillproduceanewpictureinacountrywherethegrowthoftimberproceedsquickly。

Butthelastnecessaryreformstillremainsunnoticed；thisshoulddeterminetheamountofcaroubs，mulberry，andfruit-treesthatshouldbeCUMPULSORILYplantedbyallproprietorsoflandinproportiontotheiracreage；andthisisabsolutelynecessary。

AsIhavedescribedinmanyportionsofourjourneythroughCyprus，thesimpleactionofaninsignificantstream，orofasolitarycattle-wheel，formsanoasisintherainlessdesertoftheMessaria，andtheeyethathasbeenweariedwiththebarrenaspectofatreelesssurfaceisgladdenedbythereliefofasuddenappearanceofgrovesoforanges，lemons，andothershadytrees，theresultofasupplyofwater。Wheneversuchwelcomespotsaremetwithuponthemiserableplain，thequestioninvariablyarises，“Whyshouldsuchfruitfulanddelightfulpositionsbesorare？Thesoilisfertile，theclimateisfavourable，allthatisrequirediswater，andenergy。“

IfaCyprioteisaskedthequestion，heinvariablyreplies“thatduringtheTurkishadministrationthefruit-treesincreasedtheirtroubles，owingtothevexatiousandextortionatetaxationofthecrops，thereforetheyweregladtobequitofthemaltogether。“YourquestionNo。2

follows，“WhydoyounotplanttreesnowthattheEnglishhaveoccupiedthecountry？”Thereplyisstereotyped，“Wearenotsurethatyouwillremainherepermanently，andifyouabandontheislandtheTurkswillresumetheoldsystemwithevengreateroppressionthanbefore。“Thisisanunanswerabledilemma，whichnodoubtretardsimprovements；butthereisathirddifficultywhichisinvariablybroughtprominentlyforwardwhenanysuggestionsaremadeforanextensionofagriculturalenterprise：“Wehavenomoney。“Thisisabsolutelytrue，althoughIhaveheardtheassertioncontestedbycertainauthorities。Thepeopleasarulearemiserablypoor，andcannotaffordtoruntherisksofexperiments，especiallyduringthepresentuncertaintyconnectedwiththeBritishoccupation。

TheopinionsthatIpersonallyofferarebasedupontheassumptionthatEnglandcanneverrecedefromthepositionshehasassumedinCyprus，whichshemustcontinue，forbetterorforworse，asapointofhonour。

Anyabandonmentoftheprotectionwehaveaffordedtotheinhabitantswouldtendtoaggravatetheirposition，shouldtheyreturntotheauthorityofthePorte，andtheironlyhopewouldlieintheoccupationofouremptybedbyFrance，whocertainlyrequiresacoalingdepottowardstheeastoftheMediterranean。ShouldwewashourhandsofCyprus，andevacuateitinasimilarmannertoCorfu，weshouldbecomethelaughing-stockofEurope，andnofuturesteptakenbyEnglandintheformofa“protectorate“wouldeverbereliedupon。HadweretainedCorfutothepresentmoment，nodoubtwouldhaveexistedastoanychangeinourintentionsrespectingCyprus，buttheprecedentestablishedbyourretirementfromthatgrandstrategicalpositionhasborneitsfruitinthewantofconfidencenowfeltbyallclassesinthepermanenceofournewacquisition。

ItwillbeadmittedthatageneralwantofelasticityhassucceededtothefirstboundofexpectationthatwasraisedbythesuddenannouncementofaBritishoccupation；thegovernmentcannotbeheldresponsibleforthedisappointmentofrashadventurers，buttheirtrueresponsibilitycommencedwhentheyassumedthechargeoftheinhabitantsofCyprus。Thefirstyearofthenewadministrationhasbeenmarkedbyaminimumrainfallthathascausedthedestructionofallcropsdependentuponthenaturalwater-supplyofseasons，andthispartialfamineofthefirstyearofouroccupationisgenerallyregardedasadisaster。

Althoughdisastrous，Ibelievetheseriouswarningwilloperatewithwholesomeeffect，byopeningtheeyesoftheauthoritiestotheabsolutenecessityofdirectingspecialattentiontotherequirementsofthepeople，whoaftercenturiesofoppressionhavebecomeapatheticandinert，whichunfitsthemforthespontaneousactionthatshouldbeexertedagainstthedangerousexigenciesoftheirclimate。ThegovernmentofCyprusmustbetoacertainextentpaternal，andtheplantingoftreesthatwilleventuallybenefitnotonlyindividuals，buttheislandgenerally，andultimatelytherevenue，shouldbemadecompulsory，inproportiontotheareaofthevariousholdings，dueassistancebeingaccordedtotheproprietorsbywayofloans。

TheeucalyptusissuitableformanylocalitiesinthelowlandsofLarnacaandFamagousta，anditmightbeprofitablyintroducedthroughoutsuchswampysoilsastheneighbourhoodofMorphuandothersimilarpositionswithgoodsanitaryresults；butsuchtreeswillrepresentthewoodsandforestsofthelowcountrywithoutaproductiveincometothepopulation；whereasbyanenforcedcultivationoffruit-treesuponeveryholdingtheislandwouldinafewyearsbecomeagarden，andtheexportationoffruittoEgypt，onlythirtyhours"distant，wouldbethecommencementofanimportanttrade，alikebeneficialtotheindividualproprietorsandtotheislandgenerally。

Atthepresenttime，andformanyyearspast，AlexandriahasbeensuppliedwithallfruitsfromJaffa，Beyrout，andvariousportsonthecoastofSyria，butthereisnoreasonwhyCyprusshouldnoteventuallymonopolisethetrade，ifspecialattentionshallbebestowed(bythesuggesteddepartmentofWoodsandForests)uponthequalitiesandcultivationwheneveranarrangementforanextensionofplantingshallbecarriedout。IhaveneverseenanyfruitsofhighqualityinCyprus，buttheyaregenerallymostinferior，owingtotheneglectofgrafting，andtheovercrowdingofthetrees。Thecherrieswhichgrowinthevillagesfrom2500to4500feetabovetheseaaretakendowntoLimasolandtheprincipaltownsforsale，buttheyaresmallandtasteless，althoughredandbrightincolour。Theygrowinlargequantities，andareneverattackedbybirdswhichrenderthecropprecariousinEngland，andnecessitatetheexpenseofnetting；shouldthebestvarietiesbeintroduced，everynaturaladvantageexistsfortheircultivation。

Theapricotsarenotmuchlargerthanchestnuts，andwouldbeclassedas“wildfruit，“fromtheextremeinferiorityofsizeandflavour；butthereisnoreasonexceptneglectforthelowqualityofadeliciousspeciesoffruitthatseemsfromtheluxuriantgrowthofthetreetobespeciallyadaptedtothesoilandclimate。Itisuselesstoenumeratethevarietiesoffruitsthatarebroughttomarket；allareinferior，exceptinggrapesandlemons。Theproductionsofthegardensexhibitthemiserablepositionoftheisland，whichemanatesfromawantofelasticityinadebasedandoppressedpopulationtooapatheticandhopelesstoattemptimprovements。

Englandcanchangethiswretchedstagnationbytheapplicationofcapital，andbyencouragingthedevelopmentofthefirstnecessity，WATER；withoutwhich，allattemptsatagriculturalimprovements，andtheextensionoftree-plantinginthelowcountry，wouldbefutile。Ishallthereforedevotethefollowingchaptertothesubjectofartificialirrigation，anditsresults。

CHAPTERXIV。

REMARKSONIRRIGATION。

TheancientprosperityofCyprusmusthavebeenduetoartificialirrigation，whichensuredamaximumofproduction，similartotheinundatedlandsofEgypt。InthelattercountrytheNileisa“SalvatorMundi，“withoutwhichEgyptwouldbeasimpleprolongationoftheNubianandLibyandeserts，intheabsenceofaseasonablerainfall。Thedifferencebetweenthegreatcereal-producingportionofCyprusandtheDeltaofEgyptis，that，althoughtheplainofMessariahasbeenformedchieflythroughtheactionofthePediasriverandotherperiodicalmountainstreams，whichhavedepositedarichstratumofsoilduringinundations，theriversaremerelytorrents，orsimpleconduits，whichcarryoffthewatersofheavystorms，orintervalsofrain，andactasdrainsinconveyingthesurpluswatersduringfloods；whileatothertimestheyareabsolutelydry。

IftheNilewerecontrolledbyaseriesofweirsordams，withsluicestodivertthehighwatersoftheperiodintonaturaldepressionswithinthedesert，toformreservoirsathighlevelsforthesupplyofEgyptinseasonsofscarcity，thecommandofthewater-supplywouldbefarpreferabletothechancesofraininthemostfavouredcountry。Water，likefire，shouldbetheslaveofman，towhomitisthefirstnecessity；thereforehisfirsteffortinhisstrugglewiththeelementsshouldreducethispowertovassalage。Theremustbenoquestionofsupremacy；watermustservemankind。

ManyyearsagoIpublished，intheNileTributariesofAbyssinia，myideasforthecontroloftheNileandthesubmersionofthecataractsbyaseriesofweirs，withwater-gatesforthefacilityofnavigation；

whichwithcertainmodificationswillsomedayassuredlybecarriedout，andwillrenderEgyptthemostfavouredcountryoftheworld，asabsolutemistressoftheriverwhichisnowatthesametimeatyrantandaslave。ThePediasofCyprusmayduringsometerrificrainfallassumeproportionsthatwouldconveyamosterroneousimpressiontothemindofastranger，who，uponregardingtheboilingtorrentoverspreadingavalleyofsomemilesinwidthinitsimpetuouscoursetowardsancientSalamis，mightconcludethatitwasariverofthefirstimportance。ThefactisthatnoRIVERexistsinCyprus：whatshouldberiversaremerechannels，watercourses，brooks，torrents，oranyofthemultifariousnamesforstream-bedsthatmaybediscoveredinanEnglishdictionary。Atthesametimethatthenaturalchannelsaredryduringthesummermonths，throughthewantofpowerinthewater-headtoovercometheabsorptionoftheporoussoilthroughoutitscourse，itmustnotbeforgottenthatacertainsupplyexistsatthefountainhead，withinpracticabledistance，whichmightbestoredandledfromthemountainstothelowerlandsforthepurposesofirrigation。WhenwereflectthatintheproverbiallywetclimateofEnglandthereisaconsiderabledifficultyinassuringasupplyofwholesomewater，andthatthevariouswatercompanieshavemadeenormousprofits，itisnotsurprisingthatinaneglectedislandlikeCyprusthereshouldbedistressintheabsenceofabundantrain。TheuninitiatedinEnglandseldomappreciatethelabourandexpenditurethathassuppliedtheresponsetothesimpleturningofatapwithinanordinaryhouse。Iftheywouldfollowtheartificialstreamfromthesmallleadenpipetothedistantreservoir，theywoulddiscoverthataglenorvalleyhasbeenwalledinbyastupendousdam，whichimprisonsahill-rivuletbeforeitcanhavedescendedtotheimpuritiesofhabitations，andthatthepressureofwatersthusstoredatanelevatedlevelforcesasupplytoatownatadistanceofmanymiles。ThissameprinciplemightbeadoptedinnumerouslocalitiesamongthemountainsofCyprus，wherethestreamsareperennial，butarenowexhaustedbytheabsorptionofthesandybedsbeforetheyhavetimetoreachthevillagesinthelowerlands。Ironpipesmightbelaidtoconveyawater-supplytocertaindistricts，uponwhicharatewouldbeleviedperacreandthecropswouldbeensured。

Thegovernmentatthepresentmomentobtainsarevenueinkind，orinamoneyvaluationofthecorntakenatthethreshing-floor；thusintheabsenceofacropthroughdrought，orotheraccident，therevenuesuffersdirectlytogetherwiththeowner：nocrop，norevenue。Themainstrengthofacountryliesinanannualincomefreefromseriousfluctuations，andtheextremeinstabilityofCyprusistheresultofthepeculiaruncertaintyofseasonswhichisaspecialfeatureinitsmeteorologicalcondition。Itisthereforeincumbentuponthegovernment，asanactofself-preservation，totakesuchmeasuresofprecautionaswillrendercertainthesupplyofwater，whichisallthatisrequiredtoensuretheaverageproduceofthesoil，andtherebytosustaintherevenue。

Idonotindulgeinengineeringdetails，but，fromtheexperienceIhavegainedbyapersonalexaminationofthelocalities，Iamconvincedthatnodifficultywhateverexiststhatwouldnotbeovercomewithaverymoderateoutlay。Themountainsareadmirablysituated，withawatersheduponallsides，thusofferingthegreatestfacilitiesforreservoirsandpipesthatwouldradiateineverydirection。Thissubjectwilldemandacarefulinquirybyhydraulicengineers，asitisaspecialbranchoftheprofessionthatrequireswideexperience，andlargesumsmaybefruitlesslyexpendedthroughignorance，whereatriflingamountwelladministeredmightachievegreatresults。

Oneofthefirstnecessarystepsinanexaminationofthesubterraneanwater-supplyofCypruswillbe“borings“thatwilltesttheexistenceofartesiansprings。Thereareinmanyportionsoftheislandextensiveplateauxathighaltitudesthatwouldabsorbaconsiderablerainfall，inadditiontoalargesuperficialareaofmountainsandhillsthatwouldexerttherequisitepressuretoforcethewaterabovethesurfaceofalowerleveluponboring，shoulditnowliebeneathsomeimperviousstratum。Boringwillalonesolvethisquestion。Shouldartesianwellsbepracticableincertainlocalities，animmenseblessingwillbeconferredupontheisland。

Inthemeantimethenativemethodalreadydescribed，ofconnectingchainsofwellsfromdifferentspringsconvergingtoamainchannelorsubterraneantunnel，isanoriginalformofCyprianengineeringthoroughlyunderstoodbythepopulation，whichshouldbestrenuouslyencouraged。ItisacommonfaultamongEnglishpeopletoignorethevalueofnativemethods，andtosubstitutesomecostlymachinerywhichrequiresskilledlabourandexpenseinworking；thismustintimegetoutoforderandnecessitatedelayandextraoutlayinrepairs；

generallyataperiodwhenthemachineismostrequired。

Itisacuriousfactthattheshadooforleverandbucketworkedbyhand，whichissogenerallyusedthroughoutEgypt，isunknowninCyprus，whereinmanylocalitiesitwouldbeeasilyworkedwhenwateriswithinfivetoeightfeetofthesurface。Thisarrangementonlyrequiresapoleofabouttwentyfeetinlengthsupporteduponanuprightpost，soastoplaylikeapump-handlebythebalanceofaweightattachedtooneendtocounterbalancethepailofwatersuspendedtoalongstickandshortropeattheotherextremity。InEgypttheweightattheshortendismerelyamassofclaytemperedwithchoppedstrawbeatentogethertorepresentabout150lbs。orwhatevermayberequired；thisadheres，andformsaknobtotheendofthelever。

Amanholdsthelongthinsticksuspendedattheotherextremitytowhichthebucketisattached，andpullsitdownhandoverhanduntiltheutensilisimmersedinthewater；whenfull，itissonearlycounterbalancedbytheweightattheendoftheleverthataveryslightexertionraisesittothedesiredlevel，whereitisemptiedintoareceiver。Manyyearsago，whenatGondokoro，Iarrangedadoubleshadoofofparallelleversandtwogalvanisedironbucketsoffourgallonseach，workedbytwomen。Itimedthelabourofthissimplemachine，andprovedthatthetwomendelivered3600gallonswithinanhour。Themenexertedthemselvestoadegreethatcouldnothavebeencontinuedthroughouttheday，andthebuckets，ofEnglishmake，werefarmorecapaciousthanthesimpleleatherstretcheduponahoopofsticksthatisusedinEgypt；

butthereisnoreasonforsuchinferioradjuncts。Itmaybesafelyassumedthatwithproperappliancesthedoubleshadoof，workedbytwomen，willdeliver2000gallonsanhourforaworkingdayofsixactivehours，oratotalof12，000gallons。InCyprusthewagesofalabourerareoneshillingaday，thereforethecostofraising12，000gallonswouldbeonlytwoshillings，providedthewaterisonlyfivefeetfromthesurface。TherearemanyportionsoftheMessariaplainwherethewaterisevennearer，buttheshadoofcouldworkprofitablyatsix，andevenateightfeet，anditpossessestheadvantageofsuchextremecheapnessoforiginalcostthattheoutlayisinsignificant。

Wherefuelisexpensive，andcattleandhumanlabourcheap，theancientEgyptianwater-wheelwilldeliverasupplyatacheaperratethansteam。

Ithasthemeritofbeingalwaysready；thereisnodelayinlightingfiresandgettingupthesteam；thereisnoexpensiveengineerwhomaybesickorabsentwhenrequired；butthewheelisturnedeitherbynightordaybymulesoroxen，drivenbyachild。Windvanesmightbeattachedtothisprinciple，andcouldbeconnectedonfavourableoccasions。

ThepeculiaritythroughoutthelowerlevelsinCyprus(speciallyexhibitedintheplainofMessaria)ofawater-supplywithinafewfeetofthesurface，atthesametimethatthecropsmaybeperishingfromdrought，isinfavourofthegeneraladoptionoftheEgyptianwheel。

Althoughthissimpleconstructionisoneoftheoldestinventionsforraisingwater，andisgenerallyunderstood，Imaybeexcusedfordescribingitwhenupontheimportanttopicofirrigation。

Alargepitissunktoaboutthreefeetbelowthelevelofthewater，andshouldtheearthnotbesufficientlytenaciousforself-support，thesidesarewalledwithmasonry；thispitwouldusuallybeabouttwentyfeetlong，fourfeetwide，andtwentyfeetdeepforafirst-classwheel。

Whenthewoodenwheelofaboutseventeenfeetdiameterhasbeenfixeduponitshorizontalshaft，itisarrangedwithachainoflargeearthenjars；thoseofEgyptcontainaboutthreegallonseach，buttheCyprianpotsareveryinferior，scarcelyexceedingthesamenumberofquarts。

ThesejarsaresecureduponadoublelineofstiffropesformedinCyprusofthelongtwistedwandsofmyrtle，whichareexceedinglytough，andaresubstitutesforwillowsinbasket-work。Whencompleted，thechainresemblesaropeladder，withthenumerousjarssufficientlyclosetogethertorepresentspokesseparatedbyaboutsixteeninches。Thisissuspendedovertheedgeofthewheel，andhangsvertically；thelowerportionofthisnecklace-likearrangementbeingaboutthreefeetbelowthewater，orasnearthebottomasispossiblewithsafetytothejars。

Whenthewheelturnsthenecklaceofpotsmustofnecessityobeythemovement，andastheydipsuccessivelyandfillinthedeepwater，theyinturnrisetothesurfacewiththerevolutionsofthewheel；uponpassingthecentretheyinvert，andemptytheircontentsintoalargetroughconnectedwithareservoircapableofcontainingmanyhundredhogsheads。Acircularchainorladderoftwentyfeetdiameterwillcontainabouttwentyjarsofthreegallonseach——equallingadeliveryofabouttwoandahalfgallonsperjar，asthereisgenerallyalossofwaterduringthemovement；thereforeonecompleterevolutionofthewheelwoulddeliverfiftygallonsintothereservoir。

Thewheelisturnedbyasimplecontrivanceofwoodencogsanddrivers，workedbyalongrevolvinglever，towhich，forapowerfulmachinesuchasIhavedescribed，apairofmulesoroxenwouldbenecessary。Achildsitsuponthepoleorleverandkeepstheanimalstotheirwork。

Thereisnospecifiedlimittothedepthatwhichthisinstrumentcanwork，asitmustdependuponthelengthofchainandthenumberofjars，whichofcourseincreasetheweightandstrainuponthemachineryandanimals。InCyprus，wherethewaterisgenerallynearthesurface，theadvantagesareobvious，andIfeelconvincedthatnomoderninventionissowelladaptedfortheCypriotecultivator。

Thecostoferectionofsuchamachinecomplete，togetherwiththesinkingofthepit，iscalculated，atanaverageoflocalities，as12

pounds；apairofoxenwillcost10pounds：thusthewater-wheelinworkingorderwillamountto22pounds。Onewheelwillirrigateeightydonums，oraboutfortyacresofcereals，butthesameinstrumentwouldonlysufficeforaboutsixacresofgardenground，whichrequiresamoreconstantsupplyofwater。Itmaythereforebeunderstoodthatincalculatingthepowerofawater-wheel，variousconditionsmustbeconsidered，andIshallconfinemyselftothefarm，uponwhichitwillbenecessarytoestablishonewater-wheelorsakyeeahforeveryfortyacres；thisentailsafirstoutlayofelevenshillingsperacre；andatonceensuresthecropandrendersthefarmerindependentoftheseasons。

Butincludingthecostofconstructingthenumerouswater-channelsofclaytoconductthestreamtothedesiredfields，togetherwiththeexpenseoferectingthereservoirsofmasonryuponasufficientscale，I

shouldraisetheoriginaloutlayforirrigationbycattle-wheelsto20

shillingsperacre(1pound)。Thiswouldincludetheservicesofapairofoxenforotherworkwhenthesakyeeahshouldnotberequired。*(*ThewheelIhavedescribedisdoublethepowerofthoseingeneraluseinCyprus，whereasingleanimalworksthesakyeeah，anditwouldirrigatealargeracreage。)Accordingtothiscalculation，whichexceedsbyalargemarginthefiguresgiventomebyseveralnativefarmers，theownerofahundredacresmustonlyexpend100poundstoensurehisannualcrops！Tousthisappearsnothing，buttotheCyprioteitiseverything。Whereishetoobtainonehundredpounds？Tohimthesumisenormousandoverpowering。

Intimesofscarcity，whichunfortunatelyarethegeneralconditionsofthecountry，owingtothedeficiencyofrain，thefarmermustborrowmoneynotonlyforthecurrentexpensesofhisemployment，butforthebaresustenanceofhisfamily；hehasrecoursetotheusurer，andhenceforthbecomeshisslave。Therateofinterestmaybeanythingthatcanbeimaginedwhenextortionactsupononesidewhilepovertyandabsolutefaminearethepetitioners。Thefarm，togetherwiththestock，aremortgaged，andtheexpectedcropsforastipulatednumberofseasonsaremadeovertotheusureratafixedsumpermeasureofcorn，farbelowthemarketprice。Anotherbadseasonaddstothecrushingburden，andafterafewyears，whentheunfortunatelandowneriscompletelyoverwhelmedwithdebt，perchanceoneofthehappyyearsarriveswhenpropitiousrainsintheproperseasonbringforththegrandcereal-producingpowerofCyprus，andthewheatandbarley，sixfeethigh，waveoverthegreensurfacethroughouttheisland。Theyieldofonesuchabundantcropalmostreleasesthedebtorfromhismisery；

anotheryearwouldfreehimfromtheusurer；butrarelyorneveraretwofavourableseasonsconsecutive；theabundantharvestisgenerallyfollowedbyseveralyearsofdrought。Thispitiablepositionmaybequicklychangedbygovernmentassistancewithouttheslightestrisk。

Thefirstnecessityiscapital，andtheusurermustdisappearfromthescene。Idonotthinkthatanagriculturalbankwillbepracticallyworked，asthevalueofmoneyintheeastisabove6percent。，whichisthemaximumthattheCypriancultivatorshouldpay。Thegovernmentmustadvanceloansforthespecialerectionofwater-wheels，orothermethodsofirrigation，at6percent。，takingamortgageofthelandastheirsecurity；thisloanuponwater-workstotakeprecedenceofallothers。

Thegovernmentcanborrowat4percent。，andwilllendat6，whichisnotabadbeginningforanationalbank。Thewater-wheelscanbeconstructedinafewweeks，andtheireffectwouldbeIMMEDIATE；therewouldbenodoubtfulintervalofyears，buttheveryfirstseasonwouldleavethecultivatorinapositiontorepaytheloan；atthesametime，thegovernmentwouldreapthedirectbenefitofacertainrevenuefromtheirrigatedandassuredproductionoftheland。

Thisisnovisionarytheory；thefactisalreadypatentinthefewfarmsbelongingtowealthyland-ownersthatIhavealreadydescribed，asexhibitingthesimplepowerofafewwater-wheelstoproduceabundance，whileuponthemarginofsuchverdantexamplesthecountryisabsolutelydesert，parchedandwitheredbyaburningsun，yieldingnothingeithertotheownerortotherevenue，whileatthesametimethewater-supplyisonlyfourorfiveyardsbeneaththefeetofthemiserableproprietor，whohasneithercapitalnorpowertoraiseittothesurface。

Thereisnonecessityforthegovernmenttoembarkinanyuncertainenterprise，neithershouldtheyinterferewiththenativemethodsofirrigation；andaboveallthings，nomoneyshouldleavetheislandtofillthepocketsofEnglishcontractorsinthepurchaseofpumps，orotherinventions。AllthatisrequiredbytheCyprioteiscapital；lendhimthemoneyat6percent。：thegovernmentwillbesavedalltrouble，andtheprofittoallpartieswillbeassured。Themoneyexpendedintheerectionofwater-wheelsorotherworkswillcirculatethroughouttheislandinthepaymentofnativelabour，andwillrelievethewantsofmanywho，intheabsenceofland，mustearntheirlivelihoodbymanuallabour。“Water！”isthecrythroughoutthisneglectedisland；ithasbeenthecryinEasternlandsfromtimeimmemorial，wheninthethirstydesertMosessmotetherock，andthestreamgushedforthformultitudes；

whenElijahmockedthepriestsofBaalwith，“Callhimlouder！”intheirvainappealforrain，andthe“littlecloud，nobiggerthanaman"shand，“roseuponthehorizoninanswertohisprayer。InthesavagetribesofAfrica，the“rain-maker“occupiesthepositionofpriestandchief。InEngland，theclergyofferprayersforeitherrainorforfineweather。InCyprusthefarmerplacesthesmallpictureoftheVirginuponhisfield，beforewhichhelightshistapers，whichthewindextinguishes；atthesametimeTHEWATER-SUPPLYISCLOSEBENEATHHIS

FEET，andtheexpenditureofafewpoundssterlingwouldproduceapermanentblessinganduninterruptedprosperitybypracticalcommonsenseandlabour，withoutanymiraculousinterpositioninhisbehalf。

Therearefewcountrieswheresuchfacilitiesexistforirrigation，andtheworkshouldbecommencedwithoutdelay。Shouldnextyearbeoneofdroughtlikethespringof1879，thegreatestmiserywillbefallthepopulation；thereisalreadysufficientdisappointmentinthewantofprogresssincetheBritishoccupation，andthefeelingwillbeintensifiedshouldtheassistanceofgovernmentbewithheldinthiscryingnecessityofartificialirrigation。

TheCypriotewell-sinkeriswonderfullycleverindiscoveringsprings，andIhavealreadydescribedthemethodofmultiplyingthewater-powerofonesourcebysecuringandconcentratingtheneighbouringsources。

Thisworkonlyrequiresmoney，andtheinhabitants，withoutfurtherassistancethanloanssecuredbyawater-rateuponthedistrict，willrapidlydevelopthenaturalsupply。Thereshouldbeaspecialcommissionappointed，ineachofthesixdistrictsofCyprus，toinvestigateandreportofficiallyuponthissubject。Informingthecommission，careshouldbetakenthatthenativeelementshouldpredominate，andthatnoenthusiasticEnglishengineer，bloomingwithnewschemes，shouldthrustintoshadowtheCyprianintelligenceupontheworkingoftheirownsystems。IfIwereanEnglishengineeremployedinanywork，Ishouldprobablyhavethenaturalfailingofenforcingmyownopinions；butfrommanyyears"experienceIhavecometotheconclusionthattheinhabitantsofacountryaregenerallybetterqualifiedthanstrangersforgivingpracticalopinionsupontheirownlocations。ThereisplentyofintelligenceinCyprus；thepeoplearenotsavages，buttheirfaultispoverty，thenaturalinheritanceofTurkishrule；andwe，theEnglish，havethepowertomakethemrich，andtorestoretheancientimportanceoftheisland。InEngland，atthetimethatIamwriting，moneyisnotworth2percent。owingtothegeneraldepressionoftrade；

themoney-markethasbeeninthisplethoricordropsicalstateforthelastthreeyears，andthereappearstobenohopeuponthecommercialhorizonofafavourablechange。InCyprustheresourcesaregreat，butthecapitaliswanting，andthestrangeanomalyispresentedthattheexchangeoftheBritishfortheTurkishflaghasnotincreasedpublicconfidence。Somethingmustbedonetochangethepresentstupor；ifCyprioteswereCandians(Cretans)theirvoiceswouldbeforciblyheard，andtheTurkishrulebeneaththeBritishuniformwouldbequicklyoverthrown。TheCypriote，down-troddenforcenturies，islikesoddentinderthatwillnotawakentothespark：heiswhatiscalled“easilygoverned；“whichmeansanabjectrace，inwhichallnobleaspirationshavebeenstampedoutbyyearsofunremittingoppressionandinjustice；

still，liketheCyprianox，heploughstheground。Itistheearthalonethatyieldstheworld"swealth：ifwehavenootherthoughtsbutavarice，letustreattheCyprioteasweshouldhisanimal，andmakehimawealth-producer。Englandhasacquiredthereputationoftheciviliseroftheworld；itisinthischaracterthatwewereexpectedtoeffectamagicchangeinthepositionofCyprus；insteadofwhichwehavehithertopresentedamiserableresultofhalf-measures，whereirresolutionhasreducedthebrilliantpictureofourwidely-trumpetedpoliticalsurprisetoadull“arrangementinwhitey-brown“……whichisthepervadingtintoftheCypriansurfaceintheabsenceofartificialirrigation。

CHAPTERXV。

LIFEATTHEMONASTERYOFTROODITISSA。

ThelifeatourquietcampatTrooditissawasacompletecalm：therecouldnotbeamoresecludedspot，asnohumanhabitationwasnear，excepttheinvisiblevillageofPhynitwomilesdeepbeneath，atthemountain"sbase。ThegoodoldmonkNeophitosknitted，andtaughthisboysalwaysinthesamedailyspot：theswallowsbuilttheirnestsundertheeavesofthemonasteryroofandbeneaththearchwhichcoveredinthespring，andsatindomesticflocksupontheover-hangingboughswithinafewfeetofourbreakfast-table，whentheiryoungcouldfly。

Nightingalessangbeforesunset，andbirdsofmanyvarietiesoccupiedthegreatwalnut-treeaboveourcamp，andmadetheearlymorningcheerfulwithachorusofdifferentsongs。Therewasnochangefromdaytoday，exceptintheprogressofthegardens；theplumsgrewlarge：themulberriesripenedinthelastweekofJuly，andtheshepherd"sprettychildrenandthemonasteryboyswerecoveredwithredstains，asthoughfromabattlefield，astheydescendedfromtheattractiveboughs。Itwasaverypeacefulexistence，andIshalloftenlookbackwithpleasuretoourhermitagebythewallsoftheoldmonastery，whichaffordedamoralhavenfromallthestormsandtroublesthatembitterlife。OnSundayswesentamessengerfortheposttothemilitarycampatTroodos，aboutfiveandahalfmilesdistant，andthearrivaloflettersandnewspapersrestoredusforacoupleofdaystotheouterworld：afterwhichwerelapsedoncemoreintothelocalquiescentstateofcompleterest。Itmustnotbesupposedthatwewereidle；therewerealwaysoccupationswhichbydegreesIhopeimprovedtheplace，andtoacertaindegreethepeople。OccasionallyIaskedtheoldmonkstositandsmoketheircigarettesinour“rachkooba，“whentheysippedtheirhotcoffee，andexplaineddifficulttheologicalquestionstomyintenseedification；ofcourseIalwayslistened，butneverargued。MyparticularfriendoldNeophitostreatedmetolongstorieswhichheimaginedmustbenewandinteresting，especiallythehistoryofJosephandhisbrethren，whichheseveraltimesrecountedfrombeginningtoendwithtearsofsympathyinhiseyesatJoseph"slovefortheyoungestbrotherBenjamin。TheGardenofEden，theDeluge，includingtheaccountofNoah"sArk，andseveralequallymodernandentertainingstories，Ialwayslistenedtowithcommendableattention。Yeteveninthissolitude，wherethechapel-bellonSaturdaynight，andatdaybreakuponSundaymornings，wasinharmonywiththeexternalpeacefulsurroundings，anditappearedasthoughdiscordcouldneverenterthewallsofTrooditissa，theoldmonkshadtheircaresanddifficulties。

Theprincipalcauseoftroublewas“servants！”Iwasquitesurprised，asIthoughtwewerenearerheaveninthisspotthaninanyearthlylocalityIhadevervisited；butevenherethequestionof“servants“

wasanirritationtothenervesofthepatientmonks。Myownservantswereexcellent，andneverquarrelledorcomplained；theyappearedtohavebeenmesmerisedbytheplacidcharacteroftheirposition，andtohavebecomeangelic；especiallyinnotfatiguingthemselvesthroughover-exertion。Withthemonksthecasewasdifferent。Inthisquietretreat，wheremanreignedalone，asAdamintheGardenofEden；wherethecaresandanxietiesofmarriedlifewereunknownwithinthesacredwallsofcelibacy，asinglerepresentativeoftheothersexexistedintheubiquitousshapeofa“maidofallwork；“andasEvecausedthefirsttroubleintheworld，sothemonastery“maid“disturbedtheotherwisepeacefulexistenceofNeophitos。