第7章

AsIhavealreadydescribed，thecommanderiaandtheblackwinesareproducedbythetwodifferentqualitiesofsoils，butthereisnodifferenceinthealtitudes。ThenewBritishroadfromLimasoltoPlatraes，thirtymiles，cutsdirectlythroughtheprincipalvinedistrictsofthecountry。Fromthedeepvalleyandroaringtorrent，uptothemountain-topsexceeding4000feetabovethesea-level，thecountryisgreenwithvineyardsinthemiddleorlatterendofMay；notayardofavailablelandislost。Whentheshootsareaboutthreefeetlongandhaveshowntheembryobunches，anumberofmenenterthevineyardwithswitchesandknockoffthetenderendsoftherunners，whichinagentlermethodofcultivationwouldbepickedoffwiththefingerandthumb-nail。Sometimesgoatsareturnedintonibbleofftheshootsinordertosavelabour，andatthesametimetofeedtheanimals；theyofcoursedamagethevines，buttheCypriotethinksthesystempays。TheyoungvinesareneverstakedandtiedasinEurope，butareallowedtotaketheirchance，andtheheavybunchesinmanyinstancesrestuponthedustyground。

ThereisseldomrainafterMay，butafewshowersarefavourableatthisparticularseasonwhentheyoungbunchesareinblossom。Inthebestvineyardsattentionisgiventoclearingawaytheweedsafterrain，butusuallythevinesarelefttonatureafterthegrapeshaveformed，asthehotsunanddryingwindaresufficienttokeepdownadversevegetation。

ThegrapesripentowardsthemiddleorendofAugust。Thecommanderiagrapesarecollectedandspreadupontheflatmud-plasteredroofsofthenativehouses，andareexposedforseveraldays，untiltheyshowsymptomsofshrivellingintheskin，andthestalkshavepartiallydried：theyarethenpressed。Bythistimemanyofthegrapesthathavebeenbruisedbythisroughtreatmenthavefermented，andthedustanddirtofthehouse-top，togetherwithfliesandotherinsects，haveadheredtotheimpureheap。Ithasbeenimaginedbysometravellersthatthegrapesarepurposelydriedbeforepressing；ontheotherhand，I

havebeenassuredbytheinhabitantsthattheironlyreasonforheapingandexposingtheircropuponthehouse-topsisthedangerofleavingittoripeninthevineyard。Noneoftheplotsarefenced，andbeforethegrapesaresufficientlyripeforpressingtheyarestoleninlargequantities，ordestroyedbycattle，goats，mules，andeverystrayanimalthatisattractedtothefields。Theownerofthevineyardaccordinglygathershiscropbydegrees，alittlebeforethepropertime，andthegrapesareexposeduponthehouse-topstoripenartificiallyinthesun。

Inthismannerthequalityisseriouslydamaged；butthenativeswillnotacknowledgeitanymorethantheDevonshirefarmers，wholeavetheirapplesinheapsuponthegroundformanyweeks，rottingandwasp-eaten，beforetheyarecarriedtothepoundforthegrindingofcider。Thegrapes，havingbeentroddenbymenwithlargeboots，arepressed，andthejuiceofthecommanderiaisplacedinjarscapableofholdingfromseventytoonehundredgallons。Therefuseofskinsandstalksislaidupononesidetofermentforthemanufactureofraki，orspirit，bydistillation。Thefermentationofthejuiceproceedsintheearthenjars，andisguidedaccordingtotheideasoftheproprietor；whenheconsidersthatithascontinuedtoadegreesufficientforthestrengthandqualityofthewine，itischeckedbytheadditionofpowderedgypsum。HereisoneofthepatenterrorsofthemanufactureofcommanderiaasawinesuitabletoEnglishtastes。Thegrape-juiceisnaturallysorichinsaccharine，thatitislusciousandvapidtoanexcess；thissuperabundantamountofsugarwouldbeconvertedintoalcoholinthenaturalprocessoffermentationifunchecked，andbythechemicalchangethewinewouldgaininstrengthandloseinsweetness。

Shouldthisprocessbeadopted，theresultwouldnolongerrepresentthewinenowacceptedascommanderia，whichfindsareadymarketintheLevant，owingtoitspeculiarsweetnessandrichflavour，althoughdisagreeabletoEuropeans；therewouldaccordinglybeariskattendingsuchexperiments，whichthegrowerwouldconsiderunnecessary，ashealreadycommandsthesale。

Thelargejarsinwhichthewinefermentsareporousandunglazed；theusualwaterproofingisadopted，intheshapeoftar，withwhichtheinsideisthicklycoated。Therearemanyjarsofacenturyold，whichhavelosttheflavourbyextremeage，andhavebecomeliquid-proofbythechokingoftheporeswiththecrustdepositedbythewine；thesearehighlyprized，andthewineafterfermentationisleftuponitsownleestoripen；or，accordingtoourideas，itisentirelyneglected。Itisneverrackedintoothervessels。

Thereisanunusualpeculiarityincommanderia；insteadofthecolourbecomingpalerbygreatage，itdeepenstoanextraordinarydegree。Thenewwineistheordinarytintofsherry，butitgraduallybecomesdarker，untilafterfortyorfiftyyearsitisalmostblack，withthesyrup-likeconsistenceofnewhoney。Wineofthisageandqualityismuchesteemed，andisworthafancyprice。IwaspresentedwithseveralbottlesofthefamousoldCyprusgrowthsofcommanderia，morocanella，andmuscadine，bythekindnessofMr。Lanites，whoislargelyinterestedinthetradeatLimasol。Theoldcommanderiawassufficientlysweettooccasionaroughnessinthethroat，andeachqualitywasfartoolusciousforEnglishtaste，butmighthavebeenagreeabletosiplikeTokay，bysoakingaspongebiscuit。Theutterlyrudemethodofproducingnativewines，whichcanscarcelybedignifiedbytheterm“manufacture，“

isasufficientexplanationoftheirinferiorquality，butatthesametimeitisaproofofthegreatwine-producingpowerofCyprus，where，inspiteofignoranceandneglect，anextensivecommercehasbeenestablished，whichaddsmateriallytotherevenueoftheisland。Ifthesebadly-madewineshavefoundedanimportanttrade，thereiseveryreasontoexpectacorrespondingextensionwhenscientificprinciplesshallhaveresultedinasuperiorquality。

Theblackwinesreceiveevenlesscarethanthecommanderia；thegrapesaretrodden，andarethrownintoreceptaclestoferment，togetherwiththeskinsandstalks。Thisbruisedmass，afterlyingacertaintimeexposedtofermentation，ispressed，andthemuddyjuiceisstowedinthelargetarredjarstoripenforafewmonths，which，accordingtoCypriantaste，aresufficienttoprepareitforconsumption。Thestalksandblackskins，beingextremelyrichintannin，haveimpartedtothewineapowerfulastringencyandtheexceedinglydarkcolourwhichsodisagreeablydistinguishthiscommonquality。Thegrowersimaginethattheextraamountoftanninispreservative，withoutwhich，theirwinemightdeteriorateduringtheroughtreatmenttowhichitissubjectedbytransportandexposure；andtotheirspecially-educatedpalatesthisastringencyisagreeable，combinedwiththestrongflavouroftar，whichcompletelyexcludesitfromtheconsumptionofEnglishmen。Neitherthecommanderianoranyotherqualityofwineissubjectedtotheprocessof“fining；“whenissuedfromthestoresofthemerchant，therefore，areallybrightclearwineisnevermetwith。Theblackwinescouldbeconsiderablyimprovedbyallowingthemtosettleinlargevats，andbyaseriesofrackingsintoothervessels，astheybecomeclearerbydepositingtheirimpurities。Ihavetriedthisexperimentuponasmallscalewithsuccess，andtherecanbenodoubtthatthesimplemanuallabourofdrawingofftheclearwinetoenableittofineitselfbyprecipitatingthealbuminousmatterthathasbeenfixedbythesuperabundanttannin，wouldrenderthe“mavro，“orblackwine，drinkable；alwaysexceptingthepresenceoftar，whichcanatoncebeavoidedbythesubstitutionofcasksfortheearthenjarsandgoat-skins。

Attheexpirationofthevintagethevinesremainuncared-forthroughouttheautumnandwinter，cattleandgoatsinvadethemadlibitumsolongastheirleavesareattractive，andnooperationisperformeduntilthemonthofMarch。Atthistimetheyareprunedclosetothestocks，whicharegenerallyaboutonefootabovetheground，andtwoeyesaresupposedtobeleftuponeachspur。ButIhavewatchedthecultivatorsduringtheprocess，andobservedtheusualneglect；sometimesthespurswereshavedoffcompletely，withoutabudfornextyear"sshoot，andatotherstoomanybudswereleft，thatwouldweakenanddisfiguretheparentstem。

Theinstrumentforpruningwassimilartoaverysmallreaping-hook，withahandleaboutafootinlength，andthedelicateoperationwasconductedwitharapiditythatrenderedthenecessarycareimpossible。

Aftertheclearingoftherefusethelandiscarefullyploughedandcleaned。

Ivisitedsomelargewine-storesinLarnaca，wherecasksofabout300

gallonseachwerearrangedinlongparallelrows，allfilledwithcommanderiaofvariousagesandcorrespondingprices。

Havingnowtracedtheliquorfromtheoriginalvineyardintothemerchant"sstore，itwillbeinterestingtoexaminethenetworkofobstructionsandextortionstowhichtheunfortunatewine-growerisexposedbeforehecandeliverhisproduceintothehandsofthemerchant，eitheratLimasolorelsewhere。

ConsulRiddellreportedofficiallyin1875asfollows：——

“ThewinetradeofCypruswaslastyearexceptionallylarge，owingtotheabundantproduceofthevineyardsin1874。Theoutcomeofgrapesandwinesin1875didnotexceedanordinaryaverage，andgrowersstillcomplainloudlythattheimpostsuponwines，reckoningfromthegrapetothevat，aresoheavy——amountingtoabout35or40percent——andtheirimpositionandcollectionsoveryarbitraryandunequal，thatmanyvineyardsarebeingabandoned。

“Thegovernment，itissaid，haveunderconsiderationtheanomalousstateofthewinetradeinCyprus，withaviewtorelieveandredressthemanygrievancesofwhichconsumerscomplain，andinthemeanwhilethecollectionoftheimpostsissuspended。Shouldtheresultprovetobetheelaborationofafair，reasonable，andconsistentscaleofduties，therevivalofthewinetrademaybereasonablylookedforwardto，andundersoundregulationsandintelligentfosteringthetradewouldundoubtedlybecomealargeandprofitableonetothisisland。“

In1876，theyearfollowingthepromisedreform，ConsulPieridesreports：——

“Thequantityofallsortsofwineproducedwasmuchbelowthatof1875。TheprincipalshipmentsweremadetoTriesteandVenice。Thecollectionoftheimposts，whichwasforashorttimesuspended，hasrecommenced，andthemannerinwhichitisconductedisstillarbitraryandvexatious，whileremonstranceshavehithertobeenofnoavail。Itistimeforthegovernmenttoputanendtothesegrievances，whichindeedthreatentodestroyoneofthebestresourcesoftheisland。“

In1877ConsulWatkinsreports：——

“Themanufactureofwinehereisgreatlyonthedecrease；for，owingtoallsortsofunreasonableregulations，andtothevexatiousmodeoftheirapplication，cultivatorsnowprefermakingtheirgrapesintoraisins。“

HerewehaveconsecutiveofficialreportsfromthreedifferentBritishconsulsduring1875-1877。TheBritishoccupationtookplacein1878——I

amwritingin1879——andalthoughthegrievancesoftheCyprianwine-growersweresufficientlyaggravatedtocallforthevigorousreportsandprotestsofthreedifferentBritishconsulsduringtheTurkishadministration，noameliorationoftheirconditionhasbeeneffectedduringtwelvemonthsofBritishrule。

CaptainSavile，inhisexcellentdigestofallthatconcernsthisisland，writes：——

“Thegrievancesconnectedwiththecultureofthevinesandthemanufactureofwinewhicharealludedtointheconsularreports，existedaslongagoas1863，andwerethenmentionedbyConsulWhite，whosaysthatthepeasantswereeventhenbeginningtofinditmoreprofitabletoselltheirgrapes，ortomakethemintoraisins，ratherthan，byturningthemintowine，tosubjectthemselvestothedutylatelyimposedoverandabovethetitheandexportduties，whichwerecollectedinaveryharassingmanner。Thegrowershavehadtopay，underthetaxcalled`dimes，"aneighthpartoftheproduceofgrapestothetreasury；butthiscouldnotbetakeninkind，soamoneyvaluewasfixedyearlybythelocalmedjlis，orfixedtribunal；butastheassessmentwasbasedonthemarket-priceatthechieftownofthedistrict，insteadofthevalueattheplaceofgrowth，thistax，insteadofbeingabout12。5percent。，inrealityamountedtoover20percent。Thenagainwhenthewinewasmade，anexcisedutyof10percent。waslevied，andonexport，ataxof8percent。

hadtobepaid。Thenaturalconsequenceoftheseexcessiveimpositionshasbeenthediminutionofacultureforwhichtheislandisparticularlyadapted。

ConsulLangsuggeststhatitmightbewisetofreethisproductionfromalltax，exceptaproperexportduty。“

Howeasyitistobegenerousattheexpenseofothers！——hereare(includingConsulsWhiteandLang)nolessthanfiveBritishconsulswhohavebeenprotestingagainstthisinstanceofoppressionandinjusticesincetheyear1862，anditwouldnaturallyhavebeenexpectedthatoneofourfirstactsuponassumingthegovernmentofCypruswouldhavebeentoabolishanabusethathadexcitedtheremonstrancesofourownrepresentatives。ThefactisthatwewerereducedtoafinancialebbofthegravestcharacterbytheabsorptionatConstantinopleofanunfairproportionoftherevenue，andourgovernmentwasnotinapositiontoriskareductionofincomebysuchanimportantchangeinthesystemoftaxation。TheCyprioteshaveneverthelessderivedacollateraladvantagefromthechangeofrulers，astheextremegrievancestowhichtheconsularreportsalludewereaggravatedbythefarmersoftaxes，whonolongerexist。Thesepeoplewereextortionersoftheworstdescription，andthebribesandextrapaymentsextractedfromthevine-growersarerepresentedinthegrosssummentionedasamountingto40percent。uponthegeneralproduceofthevineyard。Thereformsalreadyestablishedbytheabolitionofthenefarioussystemoftax-farminghaverelievedthevine-growersfromthemostseriousoppression，butsufficientabusesremaintodemandaradicalchange，iftheindustryforwhichCyprusisspeciallyadaptedbynatureistobeencouraged。

AsIhavedescribedinoutlinetherudemethodofcultivationandthemanufactureofwinefromthefirstburstingoftheyoungvines，Iwillnowexaminethesystemofarbitraryinterferencetowhichthevine-

growerisexposedthroughthesuccessivestagesofhisemployment。

Thefirsttaxisperfectlyfair，asitiscalculatedaccordingtotherateablevalueoftheland，whichisdividedintothreeclasses。ThesequalitiesofsoilvaryinthevaluationfromNo。1=500piastresthedonum(abouthalfanacre)toNo。3=100piastresthedonumThemalliea，orannualtaxuponthesevaluationsperdonum，is2percent。

Whenthegrapesarenearlyripe，theymustbevaluedbeforetheproprietorhasarighttogatherhiscrop。HeisobligedtopresenthimselfatthegovernmentofficeatLimasol，manymilesfromhisestate，topetitionfortheattendanceoftheofficialvaluer，calledthe“mahmoor，“uponacertainday。Thismayormaynotbegranted，butatalleventsoneortwodayshavebeenexpendedinthejourney。

Shouldthemahmoorarrive，whichhefrequentlydoesnot，attheappointedtime，themedjlis，orcouncilofthevillages，appointsaspecialarbitratortorepresenttheir(thevine-growers)interests，andheaccompaniesthegovernmentofficialduringhisexaminationofthevineyards。Afteracertainamountofhagglinganddiscussion，anapproximateweightofgrapesisagreedupon，themahmoordeclaringtheultimateamountfarabovetheactualcropperdonum：andthetaxisdeterminedaccordingtotheirquality，resolvedintotwoclasses：——

No。1，thecommanderia，andothersuperiorvarieties，pay25parastheoke。

No。2，allothergrapespay16parastheoke。

Butthesetaxes。aremodifiedaccordingtotheabundanceandqualityofthegrapesineachsuccessiveseason，beingsometimesmoreorlessthanthefiguresgiven。ThecropisgenerallyripetowardstheendofAugust，andthetax，havingbeendetermined，maybepaidduringthefollowingJanuary，March，orMay。

Thegrapeshavingbeenofficiallyvalued，andtherateoftaxationestablished，theproprietormaygatherhiscrop，andpressitforwine。

Therowsofenormousjarsareatlengthfilled：eventuallythewineisreadyforsale。

NowcomesthenecessityforasecondjourneytoLimasol，perhapsthirtyorfortymilesdistant，topetitionforthegovernmentofficialtomeasurethecontentsofthejars；withoutsuchanexamination，nowinecanberemovedfromthestores。

Thisisanotherlossoftimetothegrower，andoccasionsanexpenseforhimselfandmuleforthejourney。

Thejarsareatlengthmeasured；butbeforeanywinecanberemovedageneralexaminationofthequalityofthedistrictproducemustbecompleted，and，anaveragevaluehavingbeendetermined，thetaxof10

percent。mustbepaidadvalorem。

Afterthesenecessaryformshavebeengonethrough，withtheattendantvexatiousdelaysandexpensivejourneys，entailinglossoftimeformenandmules，thevine-growerwishestocarryhiswinetomarket。

Beforeadropcanberemovedhemustpresenthimselfattheofficialquarters，eitheratKilanioroneothervillage，toobtainateskeri，orpermit，forthequantitythathewishestoconvey。Afterthistroubleanddelayhereturnstohishomewiththeofficialpermittoremovetoaspecifiedplace(generallyLimasol)afixedquantityofwine，whichiscalculatedbytheload；oneloadequals128okesof2。75lbs。

avoirdupois，and，packedingoat-skins，iscarriedbytwomules。

Thevine-growerhimselfweighshiswinewhentheskinsarefilled，andhestartsuponhislongjourneyoversteepmountainrockypathstoLimasol，wherehewillsellhisloadtothewine-merchant，whosubsequentlywillshipittothevariousportsoftheMediteranean。

Thesunisburning；andthewine，containedintarrygoat-skins，is，afterafewhours"exposuretotheheat，aboutthetemperatureofthehottestbath；thusabsorbingthevilesmellsoftheprimitivebutsecurepackage。Theowneriswellawarethatthevalueofhiswinewilldependupontheflavour，thereforehehurrieshismulesforward，inordertodeliveritasquicklyaspossibletothemerchant，beforeitshallbecontaminatedbytheskins。

UponarrivalatLimasolitmaybelate，andnothingcanbedone。Hiswinemustbeweighedbythegovernmentofficialatthepublicweighing-place，speciallyassignedforthewinetrade；andhedriveshisladenandtiredmulestotheyard。Herehefindssomehundredsofmulesandtheirproprietorsinasimilarpositiontohimself；however，thereisnohelpforit，andtheymustbepatientthroughthenightwhiletheirwineisimbibingthehatefulflavourofthegoat-skins。Inthemeantimetheymustpurchasefoodfortheirmulesandseekquartersforthemselves。

Whenthemorningappearsthegovernmentofficialhasenoughtodo，andasacertaintimemustbeoccupiedinweighingagivenquantity，thedaywearsaway。Everymanhastopresenthisteskeri，orpermit，forremovalfromhisvillagetoLimasolofaspecifiedquantityofwine，andhisloadmustweighthatprescribedweightupondelivery。Hisscalesmaynothavebeenexactlyinharmonywiththoseofthegovernmentofficial；butshouldthequantityexceedtheteskeri，theownermustpayDOUBLETHE

AMOUNTOFTAXATION。

Inthemeantime，duringthewranglesconcerningdiscrepanciesinweight，mulesarearrivingwiththeirloads，theirownersalldesirousofdespatch，andthehoursfastwearingaway。ThenextdayisprobablyaGreekholiday，andallthemerchants"storesareshut(thereisaGreekholidayatleastonceaweek，——generallytwice)。Theunfortunatevine-grower，afterwaitingpatientlyindespair，discoversthathemustwaitstilllonger。Atlength，aftervexationsanddelays，hedrawsasampleofwineintoagourd-shellfromhisskins，andhandsittothemerchant；who，havingmadeawryfaceandspatitout，adviseshimto“throwhiswineintothesea，asitisundrinkable，“havingremainedtoolonginthegoat-skinsexposedtothesun。Amostrespectableinformantrelatedtomethetotallossofalargequantityoffirst-classwinefromthedelaythusoccasionedatLimasol……

Therefuse，afterpressingthegrapes，iscalculatedtoyieldupondistillationaproportionof100okesofspiritforeverytenloads(1280okes)ofwine。Thispaysataxofeightparastheoke，which，addedtothe10percent。uponthewine，makesatotalof15percent。

uponwineandspiritincluded。

Thevine-grower，irrespectiveofthesizeofhisvineyard，isallowed200okesdutyfreeforhisownconsumption；andwhenhisjarsaremeasuredtodeterminethecontentsfortaxationanallowanceisdeductedforthemuddydepositatthebottom。

Itwillatoncebeseenbythisenumerationofthedelaysandvexationsoccasionedbythisarbitrarysystem，thatitisbarelypossibleforthevine-growertocalculatetheactualcostofhiswine，asthelossoftime，expenseofjourneys，anduncertaintyoftheamountofdelaysareentirelybeyondhiscontrol。Itisthereforeextremelydifficulttodiscovertheexactfinancialpositionofthecultivator，butfromthedatainmypossessionitisnearlyasfollows：——

Onedonumofland，whichissupposedtomeasureasquareoffiftyyards，wouldbeabouthalfanEnglishacre；andthisareaiscalculatedtoyieldanaverageofoneloadandahalfofwine=192okes=528lbs。

Thevalueoftheordinarywineofthecountrywillaverageabout90

piastrestheload，wholesaleprice；thereforeonedonumwillrepresentagrossvalueofI。5loadat90……=135piastres(Cr。)

Againstthisannualproducethenativescalculateasfollows：——

Piastres。

Perdonum——Expensesofcultivatingtheland，i。e。ploughing，weeding，&c……25

Pruningvines……10

Gatheringcrop……10

Feedinglabourers……10

Carriageofwinetomarket……25

TOTALgovernmentdues，includingmalliea……25

______

(Dr。)105135(Cr。)

Thisleavesabalanceinfavouroftheproducerofonly30piastres，about5shillingsperdonum。

Butitmustberememberedthatintheabovecalculationhisownpersonallabourhasnotbeenconsidered；neitherthewearandtearofimplements，jars，lossbyaccidentsofseasons，whenthewineturnssour，neitherisanymarginallowedforextraneouscasualties。

Atfirstsightthepositionappearsimpossible，asastrangerwouldaskthepertinentquestion，“Why，ifvineyardsdonotpay，doestheownercontinuetheoccupation？Whydoeshenotsubstitutesomeotherformofcultivation？”Theanswerissimple。Wherevertheconditionsofthelocalitypermitted，theyhavealreadydoneso；butvineyardsarecultivatedwherenoothercropscouldgrow；uponthesidesofinclinessosteepthatitisevendifficulttostand；andthesepositions，althoughpeculiarlyadaptedforthecultivationofthevinebyreasonofthesoil，wouldbeabsolutelyworthlessforotheruses。Thevinerequireslittlewateraftertheyounggrapeshaveformed，andtheburningsun-lightwhichisfavourablefortheirdevelopmentwoulddestroyallcerealsuponthosesteepinclinations，whereacasualshower，insteadofsoakingintotheearthandnourishingthecrops，rushesquicklyoverthesurfaceanddrainssuperficiallyintothedeepvalebelow。ThelandofthevineyardsisWINEland，andadaptedspeciallybythequalityofthesoilandthepeculiarityofclimatefortheproductionofgrapes。Inadditiontotheimpossibilityofconvertingthislandtootherpurposesofcultivationwouldbethelosstotheproprietorofallhisplant，buildings，jars，&c。，&c。，whichwouldbecomevalueless。

Thisis，aswellasIcandescribethegrievances，therealpositionofthevine-grower。AlthoughsincetheBritishoccupationhehasescapedtheextraextortionofthetax-farmer，heisstilltheslaveofpettyvexationsanddelays，whichstranglehiminred-tapeandrenderhisavocationamisery；withoutprofit，leavingonlyabaresubsistence。

Whatistobedone？

Thefirstnecessarychangeisasystemofroads，onlysufficientlywidetoadmitofthenativetwo-wheeledcarts，withsidingseveryhalfmiletoenablethemtopasswhenmeeting。OurusualEnglishmistakehasbeenmade，intheonlytwometalledhighwaysthattheengineershaveconstructedinCyprus，“thateverythingmustbeEnglish；“thuswehavetwocostlyroadsofgreatwidthfromLarnacatoLefkosia，andfromLimasoltoPlatraes，whichareentirelyunsuitabletotherequirementsofthecountry；andastherearenobranchroadsincommunication，thepeoplearehardlybenefited，astheycannotreachthemainarterywithwheeledconveyances。ThemilitaryroadfromLimasolmightaswellbearailwaywithoutanybranchtraffic，asitisentirelyindependentofotherroads：thus，shouldcartsbeestablishedtoconveythewineofthedistricttoLimasol，theymustbeloadedbymulesthatwillbringtheproducefromtheroadlessvineyardsintheusualmannerbygoat-skins，andthewinewillbetaintedasbefore。Anetworkofcheapusefulcart-trackscanbeeasilymadethroughoutthewinedistricts，andtheyMUSTbemadebeforeanyimprovementinthequalityofthewinescantakeplace。Thegoat-skinsandthetarredjarsmustbethrownasidebeforeanychangecanbeexpected：thesecannotbecomeobsoleteuntilthenecessaryroadsfortheconveyanceofcasksshallbecompleted。

Ifweregardthepresentpositionofthevine-grower，wemustadvisehimthus：——“ThefirstnecessityistoimproveyourQUALITY，andthusensureahigherprice。Itcostsnomoreeitherinlabourorinplanttoproduceagoodwinethantocontinueyourpresentrudemethodofproduction。Youmaydoublethevalueofyourwinebyanimprovedsystem，withoutaddingmateriallytoyourexpenses；youwillthenhavealargemarginforprofit，whichwillincreaseinthesameratioasthequalityofyourwine。“

Thegrowerwillreply，“Wemusthaveroadsforcartsifwearetosubstitutebarrelsforgoat-skins。Solongasthemule-pathsareouronlyrouteswemustadheretotheskins，whichweacknowledgearedestructivetothequalityofthewineandreduceourprofits。Giveusroads。“

Thisisafirstnecessity，anditissimplyridiculoustopreachreformsofqualitytothecultivatorssolongasthepresentsavagecountryremainsroadless。Itisthefirstdutyofthegovernmenttoopentheentirewinedistrictbyacarefullydevisedsystemofcommunication：forwhichahighwayratecouldbeestablishedforrepairs。

Ifthissimpleworkshallbeaccomplishedthegoat-skinswilldisappear；

orshouldsomecultivatorsclingtotheancientnuisance，ataxcouldbeleviedspeciallyuponwineskins，whichwouldensuretheirimmediateabolition。AnewtradewouldatoncebeintroducedtoCyprusintheimportationofstavesforcasks，andthenecessarycoopers。Thehugejarsthatareonlysuggestiveofthe“FortyThieves“wouldbeusedaswater-tanks，andthewinewouldripenincasksofseveralhundredgallons，andberackedoffbytapsatsuccessiveintervalswhenclear。

ThefirstdepositoftanninandfixedalbumenwouldremainatthebottomofNo。1vat，theseconddepositafterrackinginNo。2；andthewinewhichisnowanastringent，cloudy，andmuddymixtureofimpurities，wouldleavethevine-grower"sstorebright，andfitforthemerchant"svatsinLimasol，andcommandamorethandoubleprice。Thisisamatterofcertaintyandnotconjecture。Shouldtheblackwinesbecarefullymanufactured，theywillbeextensivelyusedformixingwiththinFrenchwines，astheygenerallypossessstrengthandbodyinlargeproportiontotheirprice。

Itwillbeuniversallyagreedthatthemakingoftheroadsisthefirstnecessity；butiftheislandisinsuchfinancialmiserythatsoimportantastepmustbedeferred，thegrievancesofthevine-growersshouldbeimmediatelyconsidered。Thefirstquestiontothecultivatorwouldbe，“Whatreformsdoyouyourselfsuggest？”Hereplies，“Fixanannualrateperdonum，andleaveusfreetosendourwinewhereverwechoose，withouttheabominablevexationsanddelayscausedbythepresentarbitrarysystem；letthetaxperdonumincludeeverychargeforwhichweshallbeliable：weshallthenknowatoncethelimitofourliability。“Icannotseeanypracticaldifficultyinsuchanarrangement；ahighwayratemightbeanextrawhentheroadsshouldbecompleted。Asmallexportdutyatthevariousportswouldbecomeamaterialsourceofincreasetotherevenuewhenthewinetradebecameinvigoratedandextendedbygovernmentencouragement，andalthoughsuchadutywouldindirectlyaffectthegrowerinthepricewhichthemerchantwouldpayforthenewwine，itwouldbeacollateraltaxthatwouldnotbefeltindividually。

UnlessthepresentoppressivesystemshallbeabolishedthewinetradeofCypruswilllanguish，andanindustrythatmaybeprofitablyextendedtoanimportantdegreewillsharethefateofacommercialandagriculturaldepressionwhichhasresultedfromthevagueconditionsoftheBritishoccupation，andfromwhichnorecoverycanbeexpecteduntilconfidenceinthefutureprospectsoftheislandshallbeestablished。

CHAPTERXI。

FROMLIMASOLTOTHEMOUNTAINS。

Thebarleyharvestwasinactiveoperation，andthefieldsaroundourcampwerecrowdedwithmen，women，andchildren，allhardatwork，butproducingsmallresultscomparedwithanequalexpenditureofEuropeanlabour。Theirsickleswerelargeandgood，butagreatproportionofthecropswereeitherbrokenoffbyhandorweredraggedoutbytheroots，andtheearththatadheredwascarelesslydustedoffbyablowagainstthereaper"sboots。Inthisdryclimatetherewasnonecessityforpilingthesheaves，butthesmallbundleswereatonceladenupondonkeysandalsoconveyedinthetwo-wheeledcartstothethreshing-

ground，uponwhichitwouldremainuntilvaluedfortaxationbythegovernmentofficial。InthedryatmosphereofCyprus，Syria，Egypt，&c。，thestrawbreakseasily，andbeneaththesharpflintsoftheancientthreshing-harrowinpresentuseisquicklyreducedtothecoarsechaffknownas“tibbin，“whichformsthestaplearticleoffoodforhorsesandallcattle。Takingadvantageofthenumbersofpeoplecongregatedinthefields，someitinerantgipsieswithamonkeyandperformingbearswerecampedbeneaththecaroub-trees，abouthalfamilefromourposition。

ThebearsweretheSyrianvariety。ThroughoutCyprusthegipsiesareknownastinnersofpotsandmakersofwoodenspoons，whichseemstobethenormaloccupationoftheirtribethroughouttheworld；theyhavealsoacharacterforapeculiarattachmenttofowlsandanyothersmallmattersthatbelongtoprivateindividualswhichmaybemetwithduringtheirwanderings。

Thebeansofthecaroub-treeswerealreadylarge，andpromisedagoodcropinspiteofthedryweather。Therootsoftheseevergreenspenetratetoagreatdepth，andobtainnourishmentfrombeneathwhenthesurfacesoilisperishedbydrought。Ihaveneverseenacarouboverthrownbythewind，althoughtheextremelylargeheadthatisatallseasonscoveredwithleavesmustofferagreatresistance。Thefruitofthistree(Ceratoniasiliqua)isalreadyanimportantexportfromCyprus，andifthecultivationisencouragedtherecanbenodoubtofanenormousextensionofthetrade。Thetreeisindigenoustotheisland，butinitswildstateisunproductive；itsimplyrequiresgraftingtoensureacrop。Thewildyoungtreesaregenerallytransplantedintothedesiredpositions，andthengraftedfromthecultivatedspecies，butthereisnoreasonwhytheyshouldnotbegraftedinsitu。Theolives，whicharealsoindigenous，mightbetreatedinasimilarmannertorenderthecrown-landsproductive，whicharenowmerejunglesofshrubsandtreesintheirnaturalstate。Ishallreservefurtherremarksuponthissubjectforachapterspeciallydevotedto“WoodsandForests。“

Thecaroubatpresentcommandsanextensivemarket。Thefruitisusuallyknowncommerciallyasthe“locust-bean；“thetasteisacompoundoftreacleandSpanishliquorice，andwouldgenerallybeappreciatedbychildren，monkeys，pigs，andcattle。TheCassiafistulaofCeylonresemblesitsomewhatinflavour，buttheCeratoniasiliquaisfreefromthemedicinalpropertiesoftheformertree。Sincethegovernmentmonopolywasabolishedin1827thetradehasreceivedanimpetus，andthisextensionduetofreedomisanexampletoourpresentgovernmentintheirrelationstotheoppressivesystemconnectedwiththewinetrade。

Accordingtotheconsularreportsthecropof1872wasabout10，000

tons，whichsoldfreeonboardat4pounds10shillingsperton。AtthattimethechiefpurchaserwasRussia，andthelocust-beanswereexportedtovariouspositionsupontheBlackSea。In1875Englandbecamealargeconsumer，andIbelievethewell-known“Thorley"sPatentFoodforCattle“containsaconsiderableamountofthisnutritivesubstance。TheinfluenceuponthemarketofademandfromEnglandraisedtheexportsin1875to18，000tons。Afluctuationtookplacein1876，andalthoughthecropwasdeficient，thepricesfellto2pounds13shillings6pencepertonfreeonboard。ThisreactionwasprobablyduetothelargestocksonhandinEngland，purchasedatahighrate，from4pounds10shillingsto5poundsperton，whichhaddrivenRussiancompetitionoutofthemarket；thereforethe1876gatheringfoundbutfewpurchasers。In1877

theyieldwas13，500tons，andthepricerosefrom2pounds13shillings6penceto3pounds5shillingsandatlengthto4poundsperton，freeonboard。

Theaverageproduceofatree，takingthemeanofallsizes，wouldbeabout84lbs。orthree-quartersofahundredweight；allowingthemeancropoffiveyearstobe13，000tons，thiswouldgivethenumberofproductivetreesinCyprusas346，666，orinroundnumbers350，000，which，ateighttreestotheacre=43，750acresofcaroub-trees。Idonotthinkasarulethatalargernumberthaneighttreesaretobefounduponanacre，asitisthecustomtocultivatecerealsuponthesameground，thereforethecaroubsarethinlyplanted。Thiscalculationcannotbeacceptedasexhibitingtheactualpositionofthetrees，asaverylargeproportionarenotplantedinorder，butgrowindependentlyandpromiscuously，andareproductivesimplyasoriginallywildtreesthathavebeengrafted。ShouldCyprusbelongbona-fidetoEngland，machineryforcrushingandpressingthelocust-beanswillbeestablishedonthespot，which，bycompressingthebulk，willreducethefreightandmateriallylessenthepricewhendeliveredinEngland。IntravellingthroughCyprusnothingstrikestheobservationofthetravellermoreforciblythantheneglectoftree-planting。Thecaroubisanindigenousproductionvolunteeringitsservicestoman，andproducinganimportantrevenue；thereareimmensetractsoflandwhichbytheirrockynatureareunfitforthegeneralpurposesofhusbandry，atthesametimetherichsoilintheintersticesiseminentlyadaptedforthecultivationofthecaroub。Suchlandsareatthepresentmomentabandonedtoagrowthofjungle，amongwhichthisirrepressibletreedominatesallothervegetation，butinitswildstateremainsunproductive。TheneighbourhoodofLimasolisformanymilesrichlyornamentedbythesewelcomeshade-producers，andpresentsanexampleofwhatotherportionsoftheislandmightbecome。

DuringmystayatLimasolIwasseveraltimesinvadedbyacrowdofpeoplefromaneighbouringvillage，withcomplaintsuponanassumedinjusticeconnectedwiththeirwater-supply。ItwasinvainthatI

assuredthemofmyunofficialcapacity；theyweredeterminedtohavetheirsay，and，accordingtotheirthreat，to“TELEGRAPHTOVICTORIA，“

unlesstheycouldobtainredress。IreferredthemtoColonelWarren，R。A。，thechiefcommissioneroftheirdistrict，whohadalreadybeensufficientlyperplexedwiththeircase。ItappearedthatastreamflowingfromthemountainshadnearlytwocenturiesagobeendivertedintoanartificialchannelbytheinhabitantsofKolossiandothersforthepurposeofirrigatingthevariouslandsinsuccession，accordingtothegradationsoftheirlevels。Thiswaterhadbecomearight，andthevalueofalllandsthusirrigatedhadbeenappraisedinproportion。

Accordingtotheirstory，someyearsagoaGreekwhocommandedcapitalpurchasedanestateatKolossi；andhavingmadeajourneytoConstantinople，whereheremainedforsomeyears，hetooktheopportunityofbribingsomehighofficialstoobtainforhimaniradefromtheSultan，givinghimtheentirerighttothewater-supply，whichhadforsogreatalengthoftimebeentheacknowledgedpropertyoftheneighbouringlandholders。Thisiradewasissueduponthepleathatallnaturalwaters(i。e。streams)belongtotheSultan。Awidefieldforlitigationwasthusopened，andtheGreek，havingmorethantheusualallowanceof“thewisdomoftheserpent，“lostnotimeininvestinglargesumsinthecorruptionofallthosewhowouldbesummonedaslocalwitnesseswheneverthecaseshouldbebroughtbeforetheordinarytribunals。Theresultwasthataftergreatexpenseinthecostsoflitigation，anappealtothesuperiorcourtduringtheBritishadministrationhadbeenfavourabletotheplaintiffs，andtheGreekproprietorwasheldtobelegallyinpossessionofallwater-rights，totheexclusionoftheoriginalowners。He，howeverofferedtosupplythemwithwaterfortheirfarmsatafixedrate；whereastheyhadhithertoenjoyedthatfreerightforupwardsofacentury。Thisloss，orabstraction，ofsoimportantasupply，uponwhichtheactualexistenceofthefarmsdependedinseasonsofdrought，notonlyimpoverishedthecultivatorsduringthepresentyearoffamine，butreducedthevalueoftheirlandtoanenormousextent，asfarmswithawater-supplyareworthmorethanquadruplethepriceofthosewhicharedependentupontheseasons。OfcourseIcouldnothelpthepoorpeople；itappearedtomyuneducatedsenseofequitytobethemaximumofinjustice。ThequestionhungupontheSultan"srighttothenaturalwater-supply，whichI

believehasbeenofficiallydeclaredinvalid；bywhatotherrightthemonopolyofthewaterhadbeenconveyedawayfromtheoriginalproprietorsIcouldnotunderstand。TheGreekwasnotenjoyinghisvictoryinabsolutepeaceofmind，astheneighbouringfarmersavengedtheirlegaldefeatbycuttingholesintheembankmentsofhiswatercourses，andtherebynightlyfloodingtheirownfields，which，asthechannelsextendedformanymiles，wouldhaverequiredthepresenceofmorethanallthepoliceofthedistricttodiscovertheoffenders。

Upononeoccasionupwardsoffortyofthesepeopleappearedmounteduponmulesaroundmycamp，tourgemyintercessionontheirbehalf，declaringtheirperfectfaithinthehonourandgoodintentionsoftheEnglishauthorities，butatthesametimelamentingtheirignoranceofthenativelanguage，whichthrewtheentirepowerintothehandsofthedragomans(interpreters)，ofwhosecharactertheyspokeintermswhichitistobehopedwerehighlyexaggerated。Thepeoplebeggedmetorideovertothelocality，toseewithmyowneyesthepositionofaffairs；

whichIarrangedtodosinedie，andafteradvisingthemtoexerciseatemporarypatience，Igotridofthedeputationwithoutsuggesting“thatundertheexistingagrariandisputetheyshouldlettheirfarmstosomeenterprisingIrishtenantsfromTipperary。“

Imentionthisincident，whichisoneofmanyothersuponthesamesubject，toexhibitthecomplicationsthathavealwaysarisenfromthecontentionuponwater-rights，thatwillrequiresomespeciallegislation……

TheweatherwasbecomingwarmatLimasol，thethermometerrangingfrom70degreesat7A。M。to83degreesat3P。M。Therewasatroubleinthewater-supply，asthatfordrinkingpurposeshadtobeconveyedbydonkeysfromadistanceofthreeorfourmiles。Themarketinthetown，althoughwellarrangedexternally，wasgovernedbypeculiarlyrestrictivemunicipalregulations；thepriceofmeatandseveralotherarticlesbeingfixedatacommonstandard！Accordingtothisabsurdruleinferiormuttonwouldfetchanequalpricewiththebestquality：thenaturalconsequenceensued，thatonlyinferiormeatwasintroduced，totheexclusionofallother。Thesupplyoffishwasextremelyirregular，andtheyweregenerallysmallanddear。Uponsomeoccasionswepurchasedgoodredmullet，alsoalargerfishofthebassspecies；buttherewereonlyafewfishermen，whorequiredanoppositiontoinduceactivityandmoderateprices。Theirnetsweremadeofexceedinglyfinetwine，andthesmallnessofthemeshdenotedascarcityofthelargerspeciesoffish。

AnumberofMaltesesettlerswerearriving，towhomlandshadbeengrantedbythegovernmentintheneighbourhoodofLimasol；thisexcellentarrangementwillhavetheeffectofinfusinganewspiritamongthepeoplebytheintroductionoffreshblood，andthewell-knownfishermenofMaltawillofthemselvesbeaboontothelargetowns，wherearegulardemandmaybedependeduponatareasonableprice。

TherewasnothingtoinducealongerstayatLimasol，andIresolveduponTrooditissamonasteryasthepositionforamountainresidenceduringthesummermonths。UponKiepert"smap，whichisthebestIhaveseenofCyprus，thispointwasplacedamongtheanglesinthevariouscrestsandridgesoftheTroodosmountain，andwasmarkedbymeasurementas4340feetabovethesea-level。ThenewgovernmentroadextendedfromLimasoltoPlatraes，fromwhichagoodmule-pathledtothecamppreparedforthe20thRegimentandtheRoyalEngineersatanaltitudeof5740feet。Itappearedtomethatinnorthlatitude35degreesthiswasanunnecessaryelevation。MyoldresidenceatNeweraElliainCeylonwas6210feetabovetheseainnorthlatitude6degrees30"，andinthatlowlatitudewehadsharpfrostsatnight。Anyheightsapproaching6000feetinnorthlatitude35degreeswould，Iimagined，becomedisagreeablychillyinthemorningandevening，atseasonswheninthelowcountrytheheatwouldstillbetoooppressiveforareturnfromthemountainsanatorium。

ThemeantemperatureatLimasolfrom1stMayto18thhadbeenat7A。M。

65degrees，at3P。M。78。6degrees，duringwhichintervaltherehadbeensuddenvariationsoftemperature，rangingfromaminimumof56degreesto84degrees。Onthe11thMay，havingengagedtwenty-threemulesforourtents，baggage，andparty，westartedfromLimasolforTrooditissa。

ThedogMerry，thathadbeenbittenbythesnake，hadlainfordaysinastateofstupor，blackandswollen；Ihadpouredquantitiesofolive-oildownhisthroat，ashecouldnoteat，andatlengthIgavehimadoseoftwograinsofcalomel，withthreegrainsofemetictartar。Afterthisheslowlyrecovered；theearthatwasbittenmortified，andwascutoff，butthedogwassufficientlyrestoredtoaccompanyusuponthemarch，togetherwithhiscompanionWise。Wewerenowabouttoenterthegreatvine-growingdistrictofCyprus，whichproducesthelargeexportationsthatformthechiefindustryofLimasol。

AtadistanceofamilefromourcampweenteredthenewgovernmentroadwhichconnectedLimasolwithPlatraes，thirtymilesdistant。Thecountryquicklyassumedanagreeablecharacter；undulationsandwatercoursesweremoreorlesscoveredwithtrees，andtheroadscarpedoutofthesteepsidesexhibitedthecretaceousformationsimilartothatbetweenLarnacaandLefkosia。Wildlavenderwasjustbloominguponmanyportionsoftheway，whilealongtherockycoursesofravinestheoleanderswereintherichestblossom。Theroadwasfurnishedwithmile-posts，andthemulesambledalongatalittlemorethanfivemilesanhour。Ifoundconsiderablefaultinthelowgradients(oneinthirty)，whichhadproducedaroadunnecessaryforthevehiclesofthecountry，ataproportionateoutlay；itwasaltogethertoogood，andwouldhavebeenexcellenttrotting-groundforalightphaetonandpair。Astherewasnosuchvehicleintheisland，thebeautifullytracedhighwayexhibitedamodelofengineeringthatwasscarcelyappreciatedbythenatives，whoinvariablytooktheshortanddirectcutstoavoidthecircuitouszigzagsindescendingthenumerousvalleysandinroundingthedeepravines。Afterarideoftwelvemilesthroughabeautifulcountry，wellwooded，andcomprisingasuccessionofwildhillsanddeepgorges，whichformedtorrentsinthewetseason，wearrivedatariverflowinginaclearbutextremelyshallowandnarrowstreambeneathcliffsofcretaceouslimestone。Thebankswererichlycladwithrosyoleanders，myrtles，masticshrubs；andtheshadeofseveralfineoldplane-treesinfullfoliageinvitedusatoncetohaltimmediatelyupontheedgeoftheripplingstream。ThisspotwasknownasZigu，whereanancientstonebridge，withpointedarches，crossedtheravineaboutahundredpacesabovethenewwoodenbridgeerectedbytheRoyalEngineers。Thiswasamostcharmingspotforluncheon，andthedenseshadeoftheplaneswasfarmoreagreeablethantheshelterofawoodenmilitaryhutthatstoodupontheheightaboveandbynomeansimprovedthebeautyoftheview。

Ourdogsseemedtoenjoythechange，andracedupanddowntheriver"sbed，delightedwiththecoldwaterfromthemountains，freshfromthehighestspringsofTroodosSomecoldroastpigeons，youngandfat，andsomehard-boiledeggs，formedourluncheon，togetherwithbreadandcheese。Thesewerequicklydespatchedandthecarpetsbeingspreadbeneaththetrees，anhour"snapwasgoodformanwhilethemulesrolledandthendozedinluxuryupontheturf-likesurfaceoftheglen。Iwasawakenedbytheclatterofhorse"shoofs，andMr。Allen，thechiefofficerofthepoliceofLimasol，appeared，havingmostkindlyriddenafteruswiththepostjustarrivedfromEngland。Unfortunatelynotacrumbofluncheonremained，thedogshavingswallowedourleavings。Wenowsaddled，andcontinuedthejourneyuponthefirmsurfaceofthenewroad。

WhenaboutfourteenmilesfromLimasolweentereduponagrandscene，whichexhibitedthecommencementofthewine-producingdistrict。Theroadwasscarpedfromthemountainsideseveralhundredfeetabovetheriver，whichmurmuredoveritsrockybedinthebottomofthegorge。Wewereskirtingadeepvalley，anduponeithersidethemountainsrosetoaheightofabout1400feet，completelycoveredwithvineyardsfromthebasetothesummit；thislongvaleorchasmextendedtotheTroodosrange，whichtoweredtoupwardsof6000feet，atadistanceofaboutfourteenmilesimmediatelyinourfront。Thevineswereallgreenwiththeirearlyfoliage，andthesurfaceofthehill-sideswasmostcheering，contrastingwiththeyellowplainwehadleftatLimasol。

ThegoodroadrenderedtravellingdelightfulafterthestonypathsthatwehadtraversedforsomemonthsinCyprus，andthetimepassedsorapidlythatwecouldhardlybelievethedistancemarkeduponthenineteenthmilestone，whereitwasnecessarytohaltforthearrivalofourbaggageanimals。Afterwaitingtillnearlydarkwefoundtheyhadquittedthenewroadandpreferredashortcutacrosscountry，whichhadledthemtothevillageofMenagriadownintheglennearlyamilebelowus。Wewalkeddownthesteephillandjoinedtheparty，pitchedthetent，andmadereadyforthenight。

Onthefollowingmorning，insteadofadheringtothenewroad，wedescendedtothebottomofthegorgeandcrossedtherivernearsomewater-mills，asthebridgewasnotyetcompletedinthedistantangleoftheglen。Wenowascendedanexceedinglysteephillfromtheriver"sbed，whichseverelytriedouranimals，until，afterpassingasuccessionofcerealcropsandvineyards，wearrivedatthesummit，about1200feetabovethevalley。Fromthispointtheviewwasmagnificent。Thepine-coveredsidesofTroodosappearedclosebeforeus，andavalleystretchedawaytoourrightrichlyclothedwithtreesbelowthesteepvine-coveredsidesofthesurroundingmountains。Keepingtoourleftandpassingthroughseveralinsignificantvillages，wecommencedamostdangerousdescent，withanoccasionaldeepprecipiceontherightoftheextremelynarrowpath，untilwereachedacontractedbutverdantglen。

Thiswasaremarkablechange：wehadsuddenlyenteredoneofthosepicturesquevalesforwhichDevonshireisfamous。ThevegetationhadchangedtothatofEurope，aswewerenownearly3000feetabovethesea。Appleandpeartreesoflargesizewerepresent，notinorchards，butgrowingindependentlyasthoughwild。Dog-rosesofexquisitecolourwereinfullbloom，andremindedusofEnglishhedges。Beautifuloak-treesscattereduponthegreensurfacegaveapark-likeappearancetothescene，andnumerousstreamsofclearwaterrippledthoughthemyrtle-coveredbanks，overthedeepbrownrocksoftheplutonicformation，whichhadnowsucceededtothecretaceouslimestone。

Itwasacuriousgeologicaldivision，limitedbytheglen：ontheleft，thehillsandmountainsweretheusualwhitemarlsandcretaceouslimestone；whileontherighteverythingwasplutonicorgranitic，includinggneiss，syenite，andmetamorphousrocksofvariouscharacters。

Thesoiloftheglenwasred，andthevillages，builtofsun-bakedbricksofthiscolour，harmonisedwiththedarkgreenofrichcropsofwheatthathadbeenirrigatedbythenever-failingwater-power。WehadnowrejoinedtheEnglishroad，whichpassedalongthebottomoftheglen，andwhichwasyetincomplete；severalgangsofmenwereworkingatintervals，andinthescarps，wheredeepcuttingshadbeennecessary，I

remarkedaconsiderableamountofironstone。

AfewmilesthroughthisinterestingscenerybroughtustothevillageofMandria，whereastrongworkingpartywasengagedinerectingawoodenbridgeuponmasonrypiers。Wenowturnedofftotheleft，overroughbutrichly-woodedhills，leavingtheEnglishroad，whichextendeddirecttoPlatraes，asourcoursewasalteredtowardsthelargevillageofPhyni，situatedatthefootoftheTroodosmountain。Therecouldhardlybeaworseormoredangerouspathoverthehighandprecipitoushills；thesewereoncemorecretaceous，andinwetweathermustbeasslipperyassoap。Inmanyplacesthepathwashardlynineincheswide，withadeepgorgebeneathforatleast150feet。Atlengthwepassedoverthecrest，andlookeddownuponPhyni，inthevine-covereddellbelow。Asfarastheeyecouldreachuponalldirectionsformanymiles，hill-sides，valleys，andmountainsexceeding4000feetwereentirelycoveredwithvines；notayardofsoilwasunoccupiedbythisimportantbranchofcultivation。Immediatelybeforeus，ontheothersideofPhyni，inthedarkhollow，wasthebaseofTroodos，fromwhichthemountainrosesosteeplythatitappearedimpossibletoascendwithmules。Anarrowlinewaspointedoutuponthethicklybush-coveredsidesofthemountain，andwewereinformedthatweshouldreachTrooditissamonasterybythatpath。Ithoughttheremustbesomemistakeintheinterpretation；howeverwedismounted，andpreferredwalkingdownthesteepzigzagsthatledtoPhyni，halfhiddeninmassesofbrightgreenfoliageofvariousfruit-trees，nowexactlyatourfeet。

Thiswasaverypeculiarvillage，asthebroadflatroofsofthehousesformedterraces；upontheseyoucouldatoncewalkfromthesteephill-slope，intowhichthehouseswereinsertedbyscarpingoutalevelspaceforafoundation。Theeffectwasremarkable，asthehouse-roofs，inlines，seemedlikeflightsofstepsuponthemountainside。Wehaltedatthefirstdecent-lookingdwellingandrestedbeneaththeshadeofanapricot-treewithinasmallcourtyard。Thepeopleatonceassembled，andtheownerofthehousebroughtusblackwineandrakiofhisownmake；

thelatterhewasnowengagedindistilling，andsomepigswererevellingintherefusethathadbeenthrowninaheapbelowthewindowofthestore。Thismanwasproudofhiswine，asitwastolerablyfreefromthetasteoftar；thejars，havingbeenmorethanfiftyyearsinconstantuse，hadlosttheobjectionableflavour。Wewerethirstyandhot，thereforethewinewasnotdisagreeable，andwelunchedbeneaththeapricot。

Afteranhour"sresttherealup-hillworkcommenced。Wecrossedabroadchannelofrunningwaterbeneathgrovesofgreentrees，andenteredapathontheoppositesideofthevillage；thisskirtedadeepandprecipitousgorge，throughwhichtheriverflowedfromthehighanddarkravinethatcleftthemountainfromthessummittothebottom。A

water-millwasatworkbelowusontheright；andalwaysascendingalongthesideoftheravine，withtherushingsoundofthestreambelow，wearrivedafterhalfamileatthebaseoftheapparentlyimpossibleroute。Rightandleft，rightandleft，wenttheshortandsharpzigzags，thepathcoveredwithrollingstonesandlooserocks，whichclatteredunderthefeetofthetiredmulesandrolleddownthesteepinclines。

Thesoundofthestreambelowbecamefainter，andthenarrowangleofthedeepcleftgrewdarker，asweascended。Welookeddownupontheroundedtopsofvarioustrees，includingtherichverdureofplanes，whichskirtedthebanksofthehiddenstream，andweentereduponpinesrisingfromanunder-growthofbeautifulevergreens，includingthefragranttremithia，thelightgreenfoliageofthearbutus，withitsbrightredbarkcontrastingstronglywiththedarkshadeofthedenseandbushyilex。Themasticwasthere，andasweincreasedouraltitudethePinuslaricioandPinusmaritimavariedthewoodsbytheirtallspars，beneathwhichaperfectgardenofflowersalmostcoveredthesurfaceoftheearth；theseincludedthewhiteandpurplecistus，dog-

roses，honeysuckle，andseveralvarietiesunknowntome。AmongtheornamentaldwarfswereaquantityoftheSumach，whichisanarticleofexportfromCyprusfortheuseofthetanneranddyer。

Theviewbecameverybeautifulasweascended，untilatlength，afteracoupleofmilesofthesteepestzigzags，weturnedacorneroftherocksandlookeddownthegreatdepthatourright，belowthepath，uponthelongwhitethreadofawaterfall，whichforsomehundredfeetofasevereincline，brokenbyoccasionalplunges，issuesfromtherockycleft，andformstheriverintheravinebelow。“ThereisthemonasteryofTrooditissa！”exclaimedourguide。About200feetaboveourlevel，snuglynestedamongsplendidwalnut-treesinthedarkangleofthemountains，werethegreyandbrowngables，halfconcealedbytherichfoliageofplane-trees，walnuts，mulberry，andothervarieties。

Abouthalfamilefromthispointofviewthemulesscrambleduponeoftheworstportionsoftheroute，andwearrivedataclearandcoldspringissuingsuddenlyfromtherocksthroughastonespout，protectedbyanarchofmasonry：thiswasreceivedinarudewoodentroughformedfromthetrunkofahollowedpine，andoverflowedacrossthepathtowatersometerracedgardensimmediatelybelow。Awalnutandafig-treeintermingledtheirbranchesabovethearch，andformedanagreeableshadetoshelterwearytravellers，whomightsitbythewelcomespringaftertoilinguptheroughmountainside。Abouteightyyardsbeyond，byalevelpath，wereachedthewidest-spreadingwalnut-treethatIhaveeverseen；thenewfoliagewassoftanduninjuredbythewind，producingadenseshadeoveranareasufficientfornumeroustents。Thismagnificentspecimenofvegetationgrewupontheedgeofanabruptdescent，perpendiculartoaseriesofgardens，allterracedouttoadepthofabout150feet，tothebottomofanarrowgorge；thusone-halfofthebranchesoverhungthesteep，whiletheotherhalfshadedaportionofthemonasterycourtyard。

Wehaltedanddismountedbeneaththisgrandoldtree，wherethepicturesquebutnotcleanoldmonk，withsomeofhisecclesiastics，werereadytomeetuswithacourteouswelcome。

CHAPTERXII。

THEMONASTERYOFTROODITISSA。

ThemonasteryofTrooditissahadnoarchitecturalpretensions；itlookedlikeafamilyofEnglishbarnsthathadbeencrossedwithaSwisschalet。Theroofsofsixseparatebuildingsofconsiderabledimensionswerearrangedtoformaquadrangle，whichincludedthechapel，alongbuildingatrightangleswiththequadrangle，whichhadanupperbalconybeneaththeroof，soastoformacoveredprotectiontoasimilararrangementbelow，andanindescribablebuildingwhichwasusedbythemonksastheirstoreforwinterprovisions。Thestaircaseswereoutside，asinSwitzerland，andenteredupontheopen-airlandingsorbalconies；

thesewereobscuregalleries，fromwhichdoorsledtoeachseparateapartment，occupiedbythemonksandfleas。Theobscuritymayappearstrange，asthebalconieswereontheoutside，buttheeavesoftheroofatanangleofabout48degreesprojectedsomefeetasaprotectionfromthewinter"ssnow，andoccasionedadarknessaddedtothegloomofblueishgreygneisswhichformedthewallsandthedeepbrownishredofthetiledroof。

Thegreatwalnut-treeovershadowedaportionofthemulestablesthatformedacontinuationofthebuilding，andfacedtheexteriorcourtyard，whichwasinclosedupontwosidesofthesquare，inthecentreofwhichwasanarchedentrancetotheinnercourt。Thisdoorwaywasbeneathacoveredgallery，andthegroundfloorformedawell-protectedverandah，fromwhichamagnificentviewwascommandeddownthegreatgorgetowardsPhyni，overlookingthelowermountaintopstoaseahorizonbeyondthepeninsulaofAkrotiriandthesaltlakeofLimasol。

Thecoveredgalleryabovethisverandahwassupportedbystonepillarswithexceedinglyrudecapitals，uponwhichlongbeamsofthenativepines，laidhorizontally，supportedthejoistsandfloors。Itwasadullanddirtyabode，andatfirstsightIwasdisappointed。Theangleofthemountaininwhichthemonasterystoodwasformedbyaravinewhichinterceptedtheprincipalgorgeatalmostarightangle，thusapathwhichcontinuedatthesamelevelfromthecourtyardtotheothersideoftheravine，representedtheletterVlaidhorizontally。Fromthewalnut-treeacrossthebroadbaseoftheletterwouldbeaboutahundredyards，toaseriesofcultivatedterracesuponanequallevel。

Thismighthavebeenmadealovelystation，asnolessthanthreespringsofwaterissuedfromthemountainsideinvariouspositions：thefirstalreadymentioned；thesecondonthefurthersideoftheletterV，beneathanothersplendidwalnut-tree；andthethirduponthesamelevelbeyond，whichfellintoatroughbeneathalargetrellis，uponwhichsomevinesweretrainedtoproduceashade。

Theterracesformedanangularamphitheatre，theoutercourtyardofthemonasterybeingthehighestlevel，lookingdownupontree-topsofplanesandpinesthroughoutthedarkgorgetoPhyni。Thegardensappearedmuchneglected；theywereovercrowdedwithfruit-trees，includingfilberts，mulberry，pears，apples，figs，walnuts，plums；theonlygrape-vinewasrepresenteduponthetrellis；thepositionwastoohighforapricots。

AnEnglishman"sfirstideaisimprovement，andIbelievethatuponenteringheavenitselfhewouldsuggestsomealteration。Thiswasnotheaven，but，asamonastery，itwasthefirststep，andaveryhighoneforthisworld，being4340feetabovethesea。Webeganbycleaning，andIshouldhavelikedtohaveengagedHercules，atthemaximumofagriculturalwages，tohavecleanedthelonglineofmulestables，adignifiedemploymentforwhichthehero-godwasfamous；theAugeanwereajoketothem。Pilesofmanureandfilthofeverydescriptionconcealedthepavementofthecapaciousouteryardofthemonastery。Thenarrowpathbywhichwehadarrivedfromthespringwasameredung-heap，fromwhichthenoxiousweedscalleddocks，ofBrobdignagianproportions，issuedinsuchdensemassesthatanagriculturalmeetingofBritishfarmerswouldhavebeencompletelyhiddenbytheirgreatenemy。Thepriestsormonkshadfilthyhabits；itwouldhavebeenimpossibleforcivilisedpeopletohaveexistedinthisaccumulationofimpurities，thereforeweatoncesettowork。Ihadaspadeandpickaxe，andweborrowedsomeothertoolsfromthemonks，amongwhichwerestronggrubbers(whichcombinedthehoeandthepick)。Therewereanumberofpeoplebelongingtothemonastery，includingsomeyoungembryopriests，thatwemightacceptasdeacons；theseIsettoworkwiththepickaxeatoneshillingadaywages。TheboyswhowerebeingeducatedfortheChurchIemployedinremovingalltheloosestoneswhichchokedthesurfaceoftheground，andsubsequentlyinsweepingandscrapingthecourtyard。Igavethemsixpenceadayiftheyworkedfromearlymorning，orthreepenceiftheycameatnoonaftertheirlessons。Therewasashepherd"sfamily，uponthehillabout250feetabovethemonastery，ofsevenhandsomechildren，twoboysofnineteenandseventeen，andfivegirls。Thesewerehardatwork，eventoaprettylittlechildoffouryearsold，whocarriedherstones，andsweptwithalittlebroomwithallherheart(thiswaslittleAthena)。Ofcoursetheywereallpaidintheeveningwithbrightnewthreepennypieceswhichtheyhadneverseenbefore。Eventhepriestsworkedafterafewdays，whenthespiritofindustryandnewshillingsmovedthem，andinthehistoryofthemonasterytherecouldneverhavebeensuchastirringpictureandsuchadustaswemadeincleansingandalterations。Nearlyamonthwasoccupiedinthisnecessarywork，bywhichtimetheplacewasentirelychanged。Ihadmadeagoodroadasanapproachfromthespring，withacovereddrain，dignifiedbythenameofan“aqueduct，“whichledthewaterwhenrequiredtoalittlegardenthatIhadconstructedclosetothetent，whereanondescriptslopehadbecomeareceptacleforfilth。I

hadcutthisdownfromtheroad，andmixedtheearthwiththeaccumulateddirtandmanure，whichIlevelledoffinsuccessivelayers，sothatthestreamledfromthespringwouldirrigatemybedsinsuccession。Thisgardenwascarefullyfencedagainsttheintrusionofgoatsanddonkeys，tosaynothingofpigs，anditwasalreadysownwithtomatoes，cucumbers，melons，barmia，andbeet-root。Thepriestshadagrandbedofonionsuponaterrace，whichwasusuallyoccupiedbythepigs，goats，anddonkeys，astheyhadbeentoolazytoarrangeafence。

Thedocksinthemonasterygardenswereatleastsixfeethigh；Ihadthesecutandcollectedtothatchthesidesofapeculiarshed(inwhichIamwritingatthismoment)，whichwasagreatcomfortandformedaveryoriginalretreat，combiningaseatinanamphitheatrewithamodernsummer-house。Thiswasanoblong，offifteenfeetbytwelve，erectedwithinthreefeetofthetentbeneaththewalnut-treeupontheextremevergeoftheabruptincline。Ilaidafoundationofstones，whichI

coveredwithpoundedearthandwater，toproducealevelwiththetent。

Ithenplacedhorizontallyabeamofwood，securedfromslippingwithstakesdriventotheheadsintothebankupontheedgeoftheincline。

Uponthisarowoflargestoneswascementedtogetherwithmudtoformamarginlevelwiththefloor，fromwhichtheabruptinclinationatonceleapttothelowerterracesandthedeepgorge，continuingforupwardsof4000feettothesea；thiswasvisiblebeyondtheinferiormountaintops。

Therewasnothingprettyinthearrangementofthis“rachkooba，“asitwouldbecalledinAfrica；itwasasimplesquareofuprightpoles，connectedwithcanessecuredacross，thatchedinsidewithferns，andupontheoutsidewithdocks，fasteneddownwiththepeeledwillow-likeshootsofmulberry-trees。Themulberry-treesforsilkwormsarealwayspollardedannually，andtheythrowoutshootsaboutsevenorninefeetinlengtheveryseason；thewoodisexceedinglytough，andthebarkofthesewandswhenstrippedisserviceablefortyingplantsorsecuringfencesinlieuofcord。Forlackofsilkwormsthemonasterymulberry-treeshadseveralseasonsofgrowth，andtheshootswereserviceableforourwork。Theceilingofouropera-boxwascloth，withacurtainofaboutthreefeetsuspendedalongthefront，whichbrokethemorningsunasittoppedthehighridgeofthemountainontheothersideofthegorge，aboutathousandfeetaboveus。Theshedwascarpetedwithmatsandfurnishedroughlywithatableandchairs；hat-pegsweresuspendedaround，madefromthered-barkedwoodofthearbutus，simplycutsothatbyinvertingthebranchwiththestemattachedtoacord，thetwigs，cutatproperlengths，wouldformconvenienthooks。

Fromthiscoolhermitagewelookeddownuponthedensefoliageofroundedmulberry-topsandthefruit-treesofthegardenswithinthegorge，whileexactlyinourfront，ahundredyardsacrossthedeepravine，wastherockysteepofthemountainside，denselyclothedwithilexandarbutus，untilthestillhigheraltitudesbanishedallunderwood，andtheupperrangesofTroodosexhibitedasurfaceofbarrenrocksclothedwithtallpinesandcypress，2000feetaboveus。

Bythetimewehadcompletedourpermanentcampacertaindegreeofimprovementhadtakenplaceinthepeople，aswellasintheactualcleanlinessofthelocality。Everybodywashedhis，orher，faceandhands。Thecustomsofthemonkshadsofarreformedthattheimmediateneighbourhoodwasnolongeroffensive。Whenstrangerswithmulesarrivedtheroadwasimmediatelyswept，anduponSaturdayeveningsageneralembellishmenttookplaceinhonouroftheapproachingSunday。Theyoungclergywereremarkablygoodandactive；theyworkedinmylittlegardenatashillingaday，wentonerrandstoPlatraesandthecampatTroodos，andmadethemselvesgenerallyusefulforamostmoderateconsideration。IcanstronglyrecommendallyoungcurateswhoarewaitinginvainforlivingstocomeandworkupontheholysoilofTrooditissaatoneshillingperdiem；andshouldthey(ascuratesfrequentlyare)bepoorinthisworld"sgoods，butneverthelessstronginamorouspropensities，andaccordinglydesirousofmatrimony，theywillfindarefugewithinthewallsofthismonasteryfromallthetemptationsoftheouterworld，farfromgarden-parties，balls，picnics，church-decorationsassistedbyyoungladies，andallthosesnaresoftheEvilOne；andthewholesomedietofthemonks，includingacourseofsoakedbroad-beansandbarleybread，withrepeatedfastingsuponinnumerablesaints"days，willaffectthemsensibly，bothmorallyandphysically；underthisdisciplinetheywillcometotheconclusionthatawifeandlargefamilyuponanincomeof500poundsayearinEnglandwouldnotconferthesamehappinessasoneshillingadaywiththepickaxe，broad-beansandindependence，atTrooditissa，whichistrue“muscularChristianity。“

Itwasextraordinarytoseetheresultofalife-longdietofbeansandbarley-breadinthepersonsofthemonks，whoveryseldomindulgedinflesh。Theactualheadofthemonasterywasahandsomemanofseventy，perfectlyerectinfigure，asthoughfreshfrommilitarydrill，andasstrongandactiveasmostmenoffifty。Theyoungerpriestswereallgood-looking，active，healthymen，whothoughtnothingofamorning"swalkoverthefatiguingrockypathstoTroodosandback(twelvemiles)，toberefreshedontheirreturnbyanafternoon"sworkintheirgardens。

TheheadoftheChurchwasanespecialfriendofours，andwasadearoldfellowofaboutseventy，withahandsomeface，apairofgreasybrassspectaclesboundwithsomesubstancetoretainthemthatwaslongsincepastrecognition，andswelledfeetthatpreventedhimfromwalkingbeyondtheprecinctsofthemonastery，whichhehadneverquittedfortwelveyears。Thefeetlookeduncommonlylikethegout，butIcanhardlybelieveintheco-existenceofthatcomplaintwithdrybeansandbarley-bread，althoughthetruthmustbeconfessed，thatthemonksarefondofcommanderia，oranyotherproductionofthevineyard。Therewasoneexceedinglydisagreeablemonkwithwhomweheldamostremoteacquaintance，andwhosenameIwillinglyconceal；hehasbeenseenuponseveraloccasionstositdownuponanimaginarychair，therealarticleoffurniturebeingeighteeninchesdistant，andthestunningeffectofarrivingsuddenlyinasittingpostureuponthehardstoneofthecourtyarddisabledhimfromrising；andevenwhenassistedhislegswereevidentlyaffectedbytheshock。Hisenemiesdeclared(astheyalwaysdo)thathewasthevictimtoanover-indulgenceintherakiandwineofPhyni。Wegenerallyknewhimbythealiasof“Roger，“inmemoryoftheIngoldsbyLegends，where“RogertheMonkGotexcessivelydrunk，Sotheyputhimtobed，Andtuckedhimin。“

TherewasnofriendtobestowsuchcareuponourRoger，hethereforelayhelplesslyuponthebarestoneuntilrefreshingsleeprestoredhiseyesightandhisperpendicular。

OurparticularfriendtheheadoftheChurchwasaverydifferentcharacter，andwasamostsimple-mindedandreallygoodreligiousman。I

employedaphotographeroftheRoyalEngineers(kindlypermittedbyMajorMaitland，R。E。)speciallytotakehispicture，ashesateverymorningknittingstockings，withalittleboybyhissidereadingtheGreekTestamentaloud，inthearchwayofthemonastery。Thiswashisdailyoccupation，variedonlywhenheexchangedtheworkofknittingeitherforspinningcotton，orcarvingwoodenspoonsfromthearbutus：

thesehemanufacturedingreatnumbersasreturnpresentstothosepoorpeoplewhobroughtlittleofferingsfromthelowcountry。Neverhavingmixedwiththeworld，theoldmanwasveryoriginalandprimitiveinhisideas，whichwerelimitedtothemonasterydutiesandtotheextremetroubleoccasionedbythenumerousgoatswhichtrespassedupontheunfencedgardens，andinflictedseriousdamage。Thechapel，whichwasunderhiscontrol，wasoftheusualkind，andatthesametimeroughandexceedinglygaudy，thepulpitbeinggildedthroughoutitssurface，andthereredosglitteringwithgoldandtawdrypicturesoftheloweststyleofart，representingthevarioussaints，includingaveryfatSt。Georgeandthemeekestpossibledragon。OuroldfriendhadneverseenaBritishsovereignwiththeSt。George，andwasvastlypleasedwhenhediscoveredthathissaintandourswerethesameperson，onlydifferinginsymmetryoffiguresandinferocityofdragons。

Therewasoneveryextraordinaryeffigyinbas-reliefuponsilver-giltabouttwofeetsixincheshigh，oftheVirginMary，towhichpeculiarmiraculouspropertieswereattributed。Thepossessionofthisrelicformedtheprincipalattractionofthemonastery。Aboutaquarterofamileabovethepresentestablishmentthereisasmallcaveconcealedamongtheraggedmassesofrockthatcrustthemountainside；thishasbeenformedbyonerockwhich，leansacrossanother，andeachendhasbeenwalledupartificially，soastoformastonechamberofabouttwelvefeetinlengthbyseveninwidth，withasmallentrance。

Accordingtotheaccountgivenbytheoldmonk，thiscavewastheoriginofthepresentmonasterythroughthefollowingaccident。Amongthesewildmountains，wherenodwellingofanykindexists，ithasalwaysbeenthecustomafterthemeltingofthesnowsinearlyspringtopasturethenumerousflocksofgoats，whichareatthatseasondrivenupfromtheparchedherbageofthelowcountrytothefreshherbsofthecooleraltitudes。Threeorfourhundredyearsagoashepherd，havinglosthisgoatatnight，wassurprisedattheappearanceofalightamongtherockshighuponthemountain，andwithsuperstitiousaweherelatedhisdiscoverytohisfellows。Forsometimethemysteriouslightwasobservednightly，andvariousconjectureswereonfootastoitsorigin，butnoonedaredtoventureuponanexamination。

Atlength，theauthoritiesoftheChurchhavingbeenconsulted，itwasresolvedthatapriestshouldaccompanythepartyofinvestigationandthemattershouldbethoroughlyclearedup。