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The Uncommercial Traveller
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第11章

InthelatehighwindsIwasblowntoagreatmanyplaces-andindeed,windornowind,IgenerallyhaveextensivetransactionsonhandinthearticleofAir-butIhavenotbeenblowntoanyEnglishplacelately,andIveryseldomhaveblowntoanyEnglishplaceinmylife,whereIcouldgetanythinggoodtoeatanddrinkinfiveminutes,orwhere,ifIsoughtit,Iwasreceivedwithawelcome。

Thisisacuriousthingtoconsider。Butbefore(stimulatedbymyownexperiencesandtherepresentationsofmanyfellow-travellersofeveryuncommercialandcommercialdegree)Iconsideritfurther,Imustutterapassingwordofwonderconcerninghighwinds。

IwonderwhymetropolitangalesalwaysblowsohardatWalworth。I

cannotimaginewhatWalworthhasdone,tobringsuchwindypunishmentuponitself,asIneverfailtofindrecordedinthenewspaperswhenthewindhasblownatallhard。Brixtonseemstohavesomethingonitsconscience;PeckhamsuffersmorethanavirtuousPeckhammightbesupposedtodeserve;thehowlingneighbourhoodofDeptfordfigureslargelyintheaccountsoftheingeniousgentlemenwhoareoutineverywindthatblows,andtowhomitisanillhighwindthatblowsnogood;but,therecanhardlybeanyWalworthleftbythistime。Itmustsurelybeblownaway。Ihavereadofmorechimney-stacksandhouse-copingscomingdownwithterrificsmashesatWalworth,andofmoresacrededificesbeingnearly(notquite)blownouttoseafromthesameaccursedlocality,thanIhavereadofpractisedthieveswiththeappearanceandmannersofgentlemen-apopularphenomenonwhichneverexistedonearthoutoffictionandapolicereport。Again:IwonderwhypeoplearealwaysblownintotheSurreyCanal,andintonootherpieceofwater!Whydopeoplegetupearlyandgooutingroups,tobeblownintotheSurreyCanal?Dotheysaytooneanother,’Welcomedeath,sothatwegetintothenewspapers’?Eventhatwouldbeaninsufficientexplanation,becauseeventhentheymightsometimesputthemselvesinthewayofbeingblownintotheRegent’sCanal,insteadofalwayssaddlingSurreyforthefield。

Somenamelesspoliceman,too,isconstantly,ontheslightestprovocation,gettinghimselfblownintothissameSurreyCanal。

WillSIRRICHARDMAYNEseetoit,andrestrainthatweak-mindedandfeeble-bodiedconstable?

ToresumetheconsiderationofthecuriousquestionofRefreshment。

IamaBriton,and,assuch,IamawarethatIneverwillbeaslave-andyetIhavelatentsuspicionthattheremustbesomeslaveryofwrongcustominthismatter。

Itravelbyrailroad。Istartfromhomeatsevenoreightinthemorning,afterbreakfastinghurriedly。Whatwithskimmingovertheopenlandscape,whatwithmininginthedampbowelsoftheearth,whatwithbanging,boomingandshriekingthescoresofmilesaway,IamhungrywhenIarriveatthe’Refreshment’stationwhereIamexpected。Pleasetoobserve,expected。Ihavesaid,Iamhungry;

perhapsImightsay,withgreaterpointandforce,thatIamtosomeextentexhausted,andthatIneed-intheexpressiveFrenchsenseoftheword-toberestored。Whatisprovidedformyrestoration?Theapartmentthatistorestoremeisawind-trap,cunninglysettoinveigleallthedraughtsinthatcountry-side,andtocommunicateaspecialintensityandvelocitytothemastheyrotateintwohurricanes:one,aboutmywretchedhead:one,aboutmywretchedlegs。Thetrainingoftheyoungladiesbehindthecounterwhoaretorestoreme,hasbeenfromtheirinfancydirectedtotheassumptionofadefiantdramaticshowthatIamNOT

expected。Itisinvainformetorepresenttothembymyhumbleandconciliatorymanners,thatIwishtobeliberal。Itisinvainformetorepresenttomyself,fortheencouragementofmysinkingsoul,thattheyoungladieshaveapecuniaryinterestinmyarrival。NeithermyreasonnormyfeelingscanmakeheadagainstthecoldglazedglareofeyewithwhichIamassuredthatIamnotexpected,andnotwanted。Thesolitarymanamongthebottleswouldsometimestakepityonme,ifhedared,butheispowerlessagainsttherightsandmightsofWoman。(OfthepageImakenoaccount,for,heisaboy,andthereforethenaturalenemyofCreation。)

Chillingfast,inthedeadlytornadoestowhichmyupperandlowerextremitiesareexposed,andsubduedbythemoraldisadvantageatwhichIstand,Iturnmydisconsolateeyesontherefreshmentsthataretorestoreme。IfindthatImusteitherscaldmythroatbyinsanelyladlingintoit,againsttimeandfornowager,brownhotwaterstiffenedwithflour;orImustmakemyselfflakyandsickwithBanburycake;or,Imuststuffintomydelicateorganisation,acurrantpincushionwhichIknowwillswellintoimmeasurabledimensionswhenithasgotthere;or,Imustextortfromaniron-

boundquarry,withafork,asifIwerefarminganinhospitablesoil,someglutinouslumpsofgristleandgrease,calledpork-pie。

Whilethusforlornlyoccupied,Ifindthatthedepressingbanquetonthetableis,ineveryphaseofitsprofoundlyunsatisfactorycharacter,solikethebanquetatthemeanestandshabbiestofeveningparties,thatIbegintothinkImusthave’broughtdown’

tosupper,theoldladyunknown,bluewithcold,whoissettingherteethonedgewithacoolorangeatmyelbow-thatthepastrycookwhohascompoundedforthecompanyonthelowesttermsperhead,isafraudulentbankrupt,redeeminghiscontractwiththestalestockfromhiswindow-that,forsomeunexplainedreason,thefamilygivingthepartyhavebecomemymortalfoes,andhavegivenitonpurposetoaffrontme。Or,IfancythatIam’breakingup’again,attheeveningconversazioneatschool,chargedtwo-and-sixpenceinthehalf-year’sbill;orbreakingdownagainatthatcelebratedeveningpartygivenatMrs。Bogles’sboarding-housewhenIwasaboarderthere,onwhichoccasionMrs。Bogleswastakeninexecutionbyabranchofthelegalprofessionwhogotinastheharp,andwasremoved(withthekeysandsubscribedcapital)toaplaceofdurance,halfanhourpriortothecommencementofthefestivities。

Takeanothercase。

Mr。Grazinglands,oftheMidlandCounties,cametoLondonbyrailroadonemorninglastweek,accompaniedbytheamiableandfascinatingMrs。Grazinglands。Mr。G。isagentlemanofacomfortableproperty,andhadalittlebusinesstotransactattheBankofEngland,whichrequiredtheconcurrenceandsignatureofMrs。G。Theirbusinessdisposedof,Mr。andMrs。GrazinglandsviewedtheRoyalExchange,andtheexteriorofSt。Paul’sCathedral。ThespiritsofMrs。Grazinglandsthengraduallybeginningtoflag,Mr。Grazinglands(whoisthetenderestofhusbands)remarkedwithsympathy,’Arabella’,mydear,’fearyouarefaint。’Mrs。Grazing-landsreplied,’Alexander,Iamratherfaint;butdon’tmindme,Ishallbebetterpresently。’Touchedbythefemininemeeknessofthisanswer,Mr。Grazinglandslookedinatapastrycook’swindow,hesitatingastotheexpediencyoflunchingatthatestablishment。Hebeheldnothingtoeat,butbutterinvariousforms,slightlychargedwithjam,andlanguidlyfrizzlingovertepidwater。Twoancientturtle-shells,onwhichwasinscribedthelegend,’SOUPS,’decoratedaglasspartitionwithin,enclosingastuffyalcove,fromwhichaghastlymockeryofamarriage-breakfastspreadonaricketytable,warnedtheterrifiedtraveller。Anoblongboxofstaleandbrokenpastryatreducedprices,mountedonastool,ornamentedthedoorway;andtwohighchairsthatlookedasiftheywereperformingonstilts,embellishedthecounter。Overthewhole,ayoungladypresided,whosegloomyhaughtinessasshesurveyedthestreet,announcedadeep-seatedgrievanceagainstsociety,andanimplacabledeterminationtobeavenged。Fromabeetle-hauntedkitchenbelowthisinstitution,fumesarose,suggestiveofaclassofsoupwhichMr。Grazinglandsknew,frompainfulexperience,enfeeblesthemind,distendsthestomach,forcesitselfintothecomplexion,andtriestooozeoutattheeyes。Ashedecidedagainstentering,andturnedaway,Mrs。Grazinglandsbecomingperceptiblyweaker,repeated,’Iamratherfaint,Alexander,butdon’tmindme。’Urgedtoneweffortsbythesewordsofresignation,Mr。Grazinglandslookedinatacoldandflourybaker’sshop,whereutilitarianbunsunrelievedbyacurrant,consortedwithhardbiscuits,astonefilterofcoldwater,ahardpaleclock,andahardlittleoldwomanwithflaxenhair,ofanundeveloped-farinaceousaspect,asifshehadbeenfeduponseeds。Hemighthaveenteredevenhere,butforthetimelyremembrancecominguponhimthatJairing’swasbutroundthecorner。

Now,Jairing’sbeinganhotelforfamiliesandgentlemen,inhighreputeamongthemidlandcounties,Mr。GrazinglandspluckedupagreatspiritwhenhetoldMrs。Grazinglandssheshouldhaveachopthere。Thatlady,likewisefeltthatshewasgoingtoseeLife。

Arrivingonthatgayandfestivescene,theyfoundthesecondwaiter,inaflabbyundress,cleaningthewindowsoftheemptycoffee-room;andthefirstwaiter,denudedofhiswhitetie,makinguphiscruetsbehindthePost-OfficeDirectory。Thelatter(whotooktheminhand)wasgreatlyputoutbytheirpatronage,andshowedhismindtobetroubledbyasenseofthepressingnecessityofinstantlysmugglingMrs。Grazinglandsintotheobscurestcornerofthebuilding。Thisslightedlady(whoistheprideofherdivisionofthecounty)wasimmediatelyconveyed,byseveraldarkpassages,andupanddownseveralsteps,intoapenitentialapartmentatthebackofthehouse,wherefiveinvalidedoldplate-

warmersleanedupagainstoneanotherunderadiscardedoldmelancholysideboard,andwherethewintryleavesofallthedining-tablesinthehouselaythick。Also,asofa,ofincomprehensibleformregardedfromanysofanepointofview,murmured’Bed;’whileanairofmingledfluffinessandheeltaps,added,’SecondWaiter’s。’Secretedinthisdismalhold,objectsofamysteriousdistrustandsuspicion,Mr。Grazinglandsandhischarmingpartnerwaitedtwentyminutesforthesmoke(foritnevercametoafire),twenty-fiveminutesforthesherry,halfanhourforthetablecloth,fortyminutesfortheknivesandforks,three-

quartersofanhourforthechops,andanhourforthepotatoes。

Onsettlingthelittlebill-whichwasnotmuchmorethantheday’spayofaLieutenantinthenavy-Mr。Grazinglandstookhearttoremonstrateagainstthegeneralqualityandcostofhisreception。Towhomthewaiterreplied,substantially,thatJairing’smadeitamerittohaveacceptedhimonanyterms:

’for,’addedthewaiter(unmistakablycoughingatMrs。

Grazinglands,theprideofherdivisionofthecounty),’whenindiwidualsisnotstayinginthe’Ouse,theirfavoursisnotasarulelookeduponasmakingitworthMr。Jairing’swhile;norisit,indeed,astyleofbusinessMr。Jairingwishes。’Finally,Mr。andMrs。GrazinglandspassedoutofJairing’shotelforFamiliesandGentlemen,inastateofthegreatestdepression,scornedbythebar;anddidnotrecovertheirself-respectforseveraldays。

Ortakeanothercase。Takeyourowncase。

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