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The Uncommercial Traveller
投诉 阅读记录

第13章

forthathousehappenstobeMYhouse,andIhavereasontobelievethatwhathesaidwastrue。

Well!Imadenohaltthere,andIsoondroppedtheveryqueersmallboyandwenton。OvertheroadwheretheoldRomansusedtomarch,overtheroadwheretheoldCanterburypilgrimsusedtogo,overtheroadwherethetravellingtrainsoftheoldimperiouspriestsandprincesusedtojingleonhorsebackbetweenthecontinentandthisIslandthroughthemudandwater,overtheroadwhereShakespearehummedtohimself,’Blow,blow,thouwinterwind,’ashesatinthesaddleatthegateoftheinnyardnoticingthecarriers;allamongthecherryorchards,appleorchards,corn-

fields,andhop-gardens;sowentI,byCanterburytoDover。There,theseawastumblingin,withdeepsounds,afterdark,andtherevolvingFrenchlightonCapeGrinezwasseenregularlyburstingoutandbecomingobscured,asiftheheadofagiganticlight-

keeperinananxiousstateofmindwereinterposedeveryhalf-

minute,tolookhowitwasburning。

EarlyinthemorningIwasonthedeckofthesteam-packet,andwewereaimingatthebarintheusualintolerablemanner,andthebarwasaimingatusintheusualintolerablemanner,andthebargotbyfarthebestofit,andwegotbyfartheworst-allintheusualintolerablemanner。

But,whenIwasclearoftheCustomHouseontheotherside,andwhenIbegantomakethedustflyonthethirstyFrenchroads,andwhenthetwigsometreesbythewayside(which,Isuppose,neverwillgrowleafy,fortheyneverdid)guardedhereandthereadustysoldier,orfieldlabourer,bakingonaheapofbrokenstones,soundasleepinafictionofshade,Ibegantorecovermytravellingspirits。Cominguponthebreakerofthebrokenstones,inahard,hot,shininghat,onwhichthesunplayedatadistanceasonaburning-glass,Ifeltthatnow,indeed,IwasinthedearoldFranceofmyaffections。Ishouldhaveknownit,withoutthewell-rememberedbottleofroughordinarywine,thecoldroastfowl,theloaf,andthepinchofsalt,onwhichIlunchedwithunspeakablesatisfaction,fromoneofthestuffedpocketsofthechariot。

Imusthavefallenasleepafterlunch,forwhenabrightfacelookedinatthewindow,Istarted,andsaid:

’GoodGod,Louis,Idreamedyouweredead!’

Mycheerfulservantlaughed,andanswered:

’Me?Notatall,sir。’

’HowgladIamtowake!WhatarewedoingLouis?’

’Wegototakerelayofhorses。Willyouwalkupthehill?’

’Certainly。’

WelcometheoldFrenchhill,withtheoldFrenchlunatic(notinthemostdistantdegreerelatedtoSterne’sMaria)livinginathatcheddog-kennelhalf-wayup,andflyingoutwithhiscrutchandhisbigheadandextendednightcap,tobebeforehandwiththeoldmenandwomenexhibitingcrippledchildren,andwiththechildrenexhibitingoldmenandwomen,uglyandblind,whoalwaysseemedbyresurrectionaryprocesstoberecalledoutoftheelementsforthesuddenpeoplingofthesolitude!

’Itiswell,’saidI,scatteringamongthemwhatsmallcoinIhad;

’herecomesLouis,andIamquiterousedfrommynap。’

Wejourneyedonagain,andIwelcomedeverynewassurancethatFrancestoodwhereIhadleftit。Thereweretheposting-houses,withtheirarchways,dirtystable-yards,andcleanpost-masters’

wives,brightwomenofbusiness,lookingonattheputting-toofthehorses;therewerethepostilionscountingwhatmoneytheygot,intotheirhats,andnevermakingenoughofit;therewerethestandardpopulationofgreyhorsesofFlandersdescent,invariablybitingoneanotherwhentheygotachance;therewerethefleecysheepskins,loopedonovertheiruniformsbythepostilions,likebibbedapronswhenitblewandrained;thereweretheirJack-boots,andtheircrackingwhips;therewerethecathedralsthatIgotouttosee,asundersomecruelbondage,innowisedesiringtoseethem;therewerethelittletownsthatappearedtohavenoreasonforbeingtowns,sincemostoftheirhousesweretoletandnobodycouldbeinducedtolookatthem,exceptthepeoplewhocouldn’tletthemandhadnothingelsetodobutlookatthemallday。I

layanightupontheroadandenjoyeddelectablecookeryofpotatoes,andsomeothersensiblethings,adoptionofwhichathomewouldinevitablybeshowntobefraughtwithruin,somehoworother,tothatricketynationalblessing,theBritishfarmer;andatlastIwasrattled,likeasinglepillinabox,overleaguesofstones,until-madlycracking,plunging,andflourishingtwogreytailsabout-ImademytriumphalentryintoParis。

AtParis,ItookanupperapartmentforafewdaysinoneofthehotelsoftheRuedeRivoli;myfrontwindowslookingintothegardenoftheTuileries(wheretheprincipaldifferencebetweenthenursemaidsandtheflowersseemedtobethattheformerwerelocomotiveandthelatternot):mybackwindowslookingatalltheotherbackwindowsinthehotel,anddeepdownintoapavedyard,wheremyGermanchariothadretiredunderatight-fittingarchway,toallappearanceforlife,andwherebellsrangalldaywithoutanybody’smindingthembutcertainchamberlainswithfeatherbroomsandgreenbaizecaps,whohereandthereleanedoutofsomehighwindowplacidlylookingdown,andwhereneatwaiterswithtraysontheirleftshoulderspassedandrepassedfrommorningtonight。

WheneverIamatParis,IamdraggedbyinvisibleforceintotheMorgue。Ineverwanttogothere,butamalwayspulledthere。OneChristmasDay,whenIwouldratherhavebeenanywhereelse,Iwasattractedin,toseeanoldgreymanlyingallaloneonhiscoldbed,withatapofwaterturnedonoverhisgreyhair,andrunning,drip,drip,drip,downhiswretchedfaceuntilitgottothecornerofhismouth,whereittookaturn,andmadehimlooksly。OneNewYear’sMorning(bythesametoken,thesunwasshiningoutside,andtherewasamountebankbalancingafeatheronhisnose,withinayardofthegate),Iwaspulledinagaintolookataflaxen-hairedboyofeighteen,withahearthangingonhisbreast-’fromhismother,’wasengravenonit-whohadcomeintothenetacrosstheriver,withabulletwoundinhisfairforeheadandhishandscutwithaknife,butwhenceorhowwasablankmystery。Thistime,I

wasforcedintothesamedreadplace,toseealargedarkmanwhosedisfigurementbywaterwasinafrightfulmannercomic,andwhoseexpressionwasthatofaprize-fighterwhohadclosedhiseyelidsunderaheavyblow,butwasgoingimmediatelytoopenthem,shakehishead,and’comeupsmiling。’Ohwhatthislargedarkmancostmeinthatbrightcity!

Itwasveryhotweather,andhewasnonethebetterforthat,andI

wasmuchtheworse。Indeed,averyneatandpleasantlittlewomanwiththekeyofherlodgingonherforefinger,whohadbeenshowinghimtoherlittlegirlwhilesheandthechildatesweetmeats,observedmonsieurlookingpoorlyaswecameouttogether,andaskedmonsieur,withherwonderinglittleeyebrowsprettilyraised,iftherewereanythingthematter?Faintlyreplyinginthenegative,monsieurcrossedtheroadtoawine-shop,gotsomebrandy,andresolvedtofreshenhimselfwithadipinthegreatfloatingbathontheriver。

Thebathwascrowdedintheusualairymanner,byamalepopulationinstripeddrawersofvariousgaycolours,whowalkedupanddownarminarm,drankcoffee,smokedcigars,satatlittletables,conversedpolitelywiththedamselswhodispensedthetowels,andeverynowandthenpitchedthemselvesintotheriverheadforemost,andcameoutagaintorepeatthissocialroutine。Imadehastetoparticipateinthewaterpartoftheentertainments,andwasinthefullenjoymentofadelightfulbath,whenallinamomentIwasseizedwithanunreasonableideathatthelargedarkbodywasfloatingstraightatme。

Iwasoutoftheriver,anddressinginstantly。IntheshockIhadtakensomewaterintomymouth,anditturnedmesick,forI

fanciedthatthecontaminationofthecreaturewasinit。Ihadgotbacktomycooldarkenedroominthehotel,andwaslyingonasofathere,beforeIbegantoreasonwithmyself。

Ofcourse,Iknewperfectlywellthatthelargedarkcreaturewasstonedead,andthatIshouldnomorecomeuponhimoutoftheplacewhereIhadseenhimdead,thanIshouldcomeuponthecathedralofNotre-Dameinanentirelynewsituation。Whattroubledmewasthepictureofthecreature;andthathadsocuriouslyandstronglypainteditselfuponmybrain,thatIcouldnotgetridofituntilitwaswornout。

Inoticedthepeculiaritiesofthispossession,whileitwasarealdiscomforttome。Thatveryday,atdinner,somemorselonmyplatelookedlikeapieceofhim,andIwasgladtogetupandgoout。Laterintheevening,IwaswalkingalongtheRueSt。Honore,whenIsawabillatapublicroomthere,announcingsmall-swordexercise,broad-swordexercise,wrestling,andothersuchfeats。I

wentin,andsomeofthesword-playbeingveryskilful,remained。

Aspecimenofourownnationalsport,TheBritishBoaxe,wasannouncedtobegivenatthecloseoftheevening。Inanevilhour,IdeterminedtowaitforthisBoaxe,asbecameaBriton。Itwasaclumsyspecimen(executedbytwoEnglishgroomsoutofplace),butoneofthecombatants,receivingastraightright-

handerwiththeglovebetweenhiseyes,didexactlywhatthelargedarkcreatureintheMorguehadseemedgoingtodo-andfinishedmeforthatnight。

Therewasratherasicklysmell(notatallanunusualfragranceinParis)inthelittleante-roomofmyapartmentatthehotel。ThelargedarkcreatureintheMorguewasbynodirectexperienceassociatedwithmysenseofsmell,because,whenIcametotheknowledgeofhim,helaybehindawallofthickplate-glassasgoodasawallofsteelormarbleforthatmatter。Yetthewhiffoftheroomneverfailedtoreproducehim。Whatwasmorecurious,wasthecapriciousnesswithwhichhisportraitseemedtolightitselfupinmymind,elsewhere。ImightbewalkinginthePalaisRoyal,lazilyenjoyingtheshopwindows,andmightberegalingmyselfwithoneoftheready-madeclothesshopsthataresetoutthere。Myeyes,wanderingoverimpossible-waisteddressing-gownsandluminouswaistcoats,wouldfalluponthemaster,ortheshopman,oreventheverydummyatthedoor,andwouldsuggesttome,’Somethinglikehim!’-andinstantlyIwassickenedagain。

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