第6章

"Ifyouplease，sir。"

"Towhatplaceshallwego？"

"ShallwegotothePontyCyssylltau，sir？"

"Whatisthat？"

"Amightybridge，sir，whichcarriestheCamlasoveravalleyonitsback。"

"Good！letusgoandseethebridgeofthejunction，forthatI

thinkisthemeaninginSaxonofPontyCyssylltau。"

Wesetout；myguideconductedmealongthebankoftheCamlasinthedirectionofRhiwabon，thatistowardstheeast。Onthewaywediscoursedonvarioussubjects，andunderstoodeachothertolerablywell。Iaskedifhehadbeenanythingbesidesaweaver。Hetoldmethatwhenaboyhekeptsheeponthemountain。"Whydidyounotgoonkeepingsheep？"said"Iwouldratherkeepsheepthanweave。"

"Myparentswantedmeathome，sir，"saidhe；"andIwasnotsorrytogohome；Iearnedlittle，andlivedbadly。"

"Ashepherd，"saidI，"canearnmorethanfiveshillingsaweek。"

"Iwasneveraregularshepherd，sir，"saidhe。"But，sir，IwouldratherbeaweaverwithfiveshillingsaweekinLlangollen，thanashepherdwithfifteenonthemountain。Thelifeofashepherd，sir，isperhapsnotexactlywhatyouandsomeothergentlefolksthink。Theshepherdbearsmuchcoldandwet，sir，andheisverylonely；nosocietysavehissheepanddog。Then，sir，hehasnoprivileges。Imeangospelprivileges。HedoesnotlookforwardtoDyddSul，asadayofllawenydd，ofjoyandtriumph，astheweaverdoes；thatisifheisreligiouslydisposed。Theshepherdhasnochapel，sir，liketheweaver。Oh，sir，IsayagainthatIwouldratherbeaweaverinLlangollenwithfiveshillingsaweek，thanashepherdonthehillwithfifteen。"

"Doyoumeantosay，"saidI，"thatyoulivewithyourfamilyonfiveshillingsaweek？"

"No，sir。IfrequentlydolittlecommissionsbywhichIearnsomething。Then，sir，Ihavefriends，verygoodfriends。Agoodladyofourcongregationsentmethismorninghalf—a—poundofbutter。Thepeopleofourcongregationareverykindtoeachother，sir。"

"Thatismore，"thoughtItomyself，"thanthepeopleofmycongregationare；theyarealwayscuttingeachother’sthroats。"I

nextaskedifhehadbeenmuchaboutWales。

"Notmuch，sir。However，IhavebeentoPenCaerGybi，whichyoucallHolyHead，andtoBethGelert，sir。"

"Whattookyoutothoseplaces？"

"Iwassenttothoseplacesonbusiness，sir；asItoldyoubefore，sir，Isometimesexecutecommissions。AtBethGelertIstayedsometime。ItwasthereImarried，sir；mywifecomesfromaplacecalledDolGellynnearBethGelert。"

"Whatwashername？"

"HernamewasJones，sir。"

"What，beforeshemarried？"

"Yes，sir，beforeshemarried。Youneednotbesurprised，sir；

thereareplentyofthenameofJonesinWales。Thenameofmybrother’swife，beforeshemarried，wasalsoJones。"

"Yourbrotherisacleverman，"saidI。

"Yes，sir，foraCumroheisclebberenough。"

"ForaCumro？"

"Yes，sir，heisnotaSaxon，youknow。"

"AreSaxonsthensoveryclever？"

"Ohyes，sir；whosoclebber？TheclebberestpeopleinLlangollenareSaxons；thatis，atcarnalthings—foratspiritualthingsI

donotthinkthematallclebber。LookatMrA。，sir。"

"Whoishe？"

"Doyounotknowhim，sir？IthoughteverybodyknewMrA。HeisaSaxon，sir，andkeepstheinnontheroadalittlewaybelowwhereyoulive。HeistheclebberestmaninLlangollen，sir。Hecandoeverything。Heisagreatcook，andcanwashclothesbetterthananywoman。Oh，sir，forcarnalthings，whosoclebberasyourcountrymen！"

Afterwalkingaboutfourmilesbythesideofthecanalweleftit，andbearingtotherightpresentlycametotheaqueduct，whichstrodeoveradeepandnarrowvalley，atthebottomofwhichrantheDee。"ThisisthePontyCysswllt，sir，"saidmyguide；"it’sthefinestbridgeintheworld，andnowonder，ifwhatthecommonpeoplesaybetrue，namelythateverystonecostagoldensovereign。"

Wewentalongit；theheightwasawful。Myguide，thoughhehadbeenamountainshepherd，confessedthathewassomewhatafraid。

"Itgivesmethependro，sir，"saidhe，"tolookdown。"Itoofeltsomewhatdizzy，asIlookedovertheparapetintotheglen。Thecanalwhichthismightybridgecarriesacrossthegulfisaboutninefeetwide，andoccupiesabouttwo—thirdsofthewidthofthebridgeandtheentirewesternside。Thefootwayistowardstheeast。FromaboutthemiddleofthebridgethereisafineviewoftheforgesontheCefnBachandalsoofahugehillnearitcalledtheCefnMawr。Wereachedthetermination，andpresentlycrossingthecanalbyalittlewoodenbridgewecametoavillage。Myguidethensaid，"Ifyouplease，sir，wewillreturnbytheoldbridge，whichleadsacrosstheDeeinthebottomofthevale。"Hethenledmebyaromanticroadtoabridgeonthewestoftheaqueduct，andfarbelow。Itseemedveryancient。"Thisistheoldbridge，sir，"

saidmyguide；"itwasbuiltahundredyearsbeforethePontyCysswlltwasdreamtof。"Wenowwalkedtothewest，inthedirectionofLlangollen，alongthebankoftheriver。Presentlywearrivedwheretheriver，aftermakingabend，formedapool。Itwasshadedbyloftytrees，andtoallappearancewasexceedinglydeep。Istoppedtolookatit，forIwasstruckwithitsgloomyhorror。"Thatpool，sir，"saidJohnJones，"iscalledLlynyMeddwyn，thedrunkard’spool。Itiscalledso，sir，becauseadrunkenmanoncefellintoit，andwasdrowned。ThereisnodeeperpoolintheDee，sir，saveone，alittlebelowLlangollen，whichiscalledthepoolofCatherineLingo。Agirlofthatnamefellintoit，whilstgatheringsticksonthehighbankaboveit。Shewasdrowned，andthepoolwasnamedafterher。Ineverlookateitherwithoutshuddering，thinkinghowcertainlyIshouldbedrownedifI

fellin，forIcannotswim，sir。"

"Youshouldhavelearnttoswimwhenyouwereyoung，"saidI，"andtodivetoo。Iknowonewhohasbroughtupstonesfromthebottom，Idaresay，ofdeeperpoolsthaneither，buthewasaSaxon，andatcarnalthings，youknow，nonesoclebberastheSaxons。"

Ifoundmyguideafirst—ratewalkerandagoodbotanist，knowingthenamesofalltheplantsandtreesinWelsh。BythetimewereturnedtoLlangollenIhadformedaveryhighopinionofhim，inwhichIwassubsequentlyconfirmedbywhatIsawofhimduringtheperiodofouracquaintance，whichwasofsomeduration。Hewasveryhonest，disinterested，andexceedinglygood—humoured。Itistrue，hehadhislittleskitsoccasionallyattheChurch，andshowedsomemarksofhostilitytothechurchcat，moreespeciallywhenhesawitmountedonmyshoulders；forthecreaturesoonbegantotakeliberties，andinlessthanaweekaftermyarrivalatthecottage，generallymountedonmyback，whenitsawmereadingorwriting，forthesakeofthewarmth。ButsettingasidethosesameskitsattheChurch，andthatdislikeofthechurchcat，venialtriflesafterall，andeasilytobeaccountedfor，onthescoreofhisreligiouseducation，Ifoundnothingtoblame，andmuchtoadmire，inJohnJones，theCalvinisticMethodistofLlangollen。

CHAPTERXIII

DivineService—LlangollenBells—IoloGoch—TheAbbey—Twmo’rNant—HolyWell—ThomasEdwardsSUNDAYarrived—aSundayofuncloudedsunshine。WeattendedDivineserviceatchurchinthemorning。Thecongregationwasverynumerous，buttoallappearanceconsistedalmostentirelyofEnglishvisitors，likeourselves。Thereweretwoofficiatingclergymen，fatherandson。Theybothsatinakindofoblongpulpitonthesouthernsideofthechurch，atalittledistancebelowthealtar。TheservicewasinEnglish，andtheeldergentlemanpreached；therewasgoodsingingandchanting。

AfterdinnerIsatinanarbourintheperllan，thinkingofmanythings，amongstothers，spiritual。Whilstthusengaged，thesoundofthechurchbellscallingpeopletoafternoonservicecameuponmyears。Ilistened，andthoughtIhadneverheardbellswithsosweetasound。Ihadheardtheminthemorning，butwithoutpayingmuchattentiontothem，butasInowsatintheumbrageousarbour，Iwasparticularlystruckwiththem。Ohhowsweetlytheirvoicemingledwiththelowrushoftheriver，atthebottomoftheperllan。IsubsequentlyfoundthatthebellsofLlangollenwerecelebratedfortheirsweetness。Theirmeritindeedhasevenbeenadmittedbyanenemy；forapoetoftheCalvinisticMethodistpersuasion，onewhocallshimselfEinionDu，inaverybeautifulode，commencingwith—

"TangnefeddiLlangollen，"

saysthatinnopartoftheworlddobellscallpeoplesosweetlytochurchasthoseofLlangollentown。

Intheevening，atabouthalf—pastsix，Iattendedserviceagain，butwithoutmyfamily。Thistimethecongregationwasnotnumerous，andwascomposedprincipallyofpoorpeople。TheserviceandsermonwerenowinWelsh，thesermonwaspreachedbytheyoungergentleman，andwasonthebuildingofthesecondtemple，and，asfarasIunderstoodit，appearedtometobeexceedinglygood。

OntheMondayevening，myselfandfamilytookawalktotheabbey。

Mywifeanddaughter，whoarefondofarchitectureandruins，wereveryanxioustoseetheoldplace。Itoowasanxiousenoughtoseeit，lessfromloveofruinsandancientarchitecture，thanfromknowingthatacertainillustriousbardwasburiedinitsprecincts，ofwhomperhapsashortaccountwillnotbeunacceptabletothereader。

Thisman，whosepoeticalappellationwasIoloGoch，butwhoserealnamewasLlwyd，wasofadistinguishedfamily，andLordofLlechryd。HewasbornandgenerallyresidedataplacecalledCoedyPantwn，intheupperpartoftheValeofClwyd。HewasawarmfriendandpartisanofOwenGlendower，withwhomhelived，atSycharth，forsomeyearsbeforethegreatWelshinsurrection，andwhomhesurvived，dyingatanextremeoldagebeneathhisownroof—

treeatCoedyPantwn。Hecomposedpiecesofgreatexcellenceonvarioussubjects；butthemostremarkableofhiscompositionsaredecidedlycertainonesconnectedwithOwenGlendower。AmongsttheseisoneinwhichhedescribestheWelshchieftain’smansionatSycharth，andhishospitablewayoflivingatthathisfavouriteresidence；andanotherinwhichhehailstheadventofthecomet，whichmadeitsappearanceinthemonthofMarch，fourteenhundredandtwo，asofgoodaugurytohisdarlinghero。

Itwasfromknowingthatthisdistinguishedmanlayburiedintheprecinctsoftheoldedifice，thatIfeltsoanxioustoseeit。

Afterwalkingabouttwomilesweperceiveditonourrighthand。

Theabbeyofthevaleofthecrossstandsinagreenmeadow，inacornernearthenorth—westendofthevalleyofLlangollen。Thevaleorglen，inwhichtheabbeystands，takesitsnamefromacertainancientpillarorcross，calledthepillarofEliseg，andwhichisbelievedtohavebeenraisedoverthebodyofanancientBritishchieftainofthatname，whoperishedinbattleagainsttheSaxons，aboutthemiddleofthetenthcentury。InthePapisttimestheabbeywasaplaceofgreatpseudo—sanctity，wealthandconsequence。Theterritorybelongingtoitwasveryextensive，comprising，amongstotherdistricts，thevaleofLlangollenandthemountainregiontothenorthofit，calledtheEglwysigRocks，whichregionderiveditsnameEglwysig，orecclesiastical，fromthecircumstanceofitspertainingtotheabbeyofthevaleofthecross。

Wefirstreachedthatpartofthebuildingwhichhadoncebeenthechurch，havingpreviouslytopassthroughafarmyard，inwhichwasabundanceofdirtandmire。

Thechurchfrontsthewestandcontainstheremainsofanoblewindow，beneathwhichisagate，whichwefoundlocked。Passingonwecametothatpartwherethemonkshadlived，butwhichnowservedasafarmhouse；anopendoorwayexhibitedtousanancientgloomyhall，wherewassomecuriousold—fashionedfurniture，particularlyanancientrack，inwhichstoodagoodlyrangeofpewtertrenchers。Arespectabledamekindlywelcomedusandinvitedustositdown。Weenteredintoconversationwithher，andaskedhername，whichshesaidwasEvans。IspokesomeWelshtoher，whichpleasedher。ShesaidthatWelshpeopleatthepresentdayweresofulloffineairsthattheywereabovespeakingtheoldlanguage—butthatsuchwasnotthecaseformerly，andthatshehadknownaMrsPrice，whowashousekeepertotheCountessofMornington，wholivedinLondonupwardsoffortyyears，andattheendofthattimepridedherselfuponspeakingasgoodWelshasshedidwhenagirl。Ispoketoherabouttheabbey，andaskedifshehadeverheardofIoloGoch。Sheinquiredwhohewas。Itoldherhewasagreatbard，andwasburiedintheabbey。Shesaidshehadneverheardofhim，butthatshecouldshowmetheportraitofagreatpoet，andgoingaway，presentlyreturnedwithaprintinaframe。

"There，"saidshe，"istheportraitofTwmo’rNant，generallycalledtheWelshShakespeare。"

Ilookedatit。TheWelshShakespearewasrepresentedsittingatatablewithapeninhishand；acottage—latticedwindowwasbehindhim，onhislefthand；ashelfwithplates，andtrenchersbehindhim，onhisright。Hisfeatureswererude，butfullofwild，strangeexpression；belowthepicturewasthefollowingcouplet：—

"LlunGwrywllawngwirAwen；

YBydalanwoddo’iBen。"

"DidyoueverhearofTwmo’rNant？"saidtheolddame。

"Ineverheardofhimbywordofmouth，"saidI；"butIknowallabouthim—IhavereadhislifeinWelsh，writtenbyhimself，andacuriouslifeitis。HisnamewasThomasEdwards，buthegenerallycalledhimselfTwmo’rNant，orTomoftheDingle，becausehewasborninadingle，ataplacecalledPenPorchell，inthevaleofClwyd—which，bythebye，wasontheestatewhichoncebelongedtoIoloGoch，thepoetIwasspeakingtoyouaboutjustnow。Tomwasacarterbytrade，butoncekeptatoll—barinSouthWales，which，however，hewasobligedtoleaveattheendoftwoyears，owingtotheannoyancewhichheexperiencedfromghostsandgoblins，andunearthlythings，particularlyphantomhearses，whichusedtopassthroughhisgateatmidnightwithoutpaying，whenthegatewasshut。"

"Ah，"saidthedame，"youknowmoreaboutTomo’rNantthanIdo；

andwashenotagreatpoet？"

"Idaresayhewas，"saidI，"forthepieceswhichhewrote，andwhichhecalledInterludes，hadagreatrun，andhegotagreatdealofmoneybythem，butIshouldsaythelinesbeneaththeportraitaremoreapplicabletotherealShakespearethantohim。"

"Whatdothelinesmean？"saidtheoldlady；"theyareWelsh，I

know，buttheyarefarbeyondmyunderstanding。"

"Theymaybethustranslated，"saidI：

"GodinhisheadtheMuseinstill’d，Andfromhisheadtheworldhefill’d。"

"Thankyou，sir，"saidtheoldlady。"Ineverfoundanyonebeforewhocouldtranslatethem。"ShethensaidshewouldshowmesomeEnglishlineswrittenonthedaughterofafriendofherswhowaslatelydead，andputsomeprintedlinesinaframeintomyhand。

TheywereanElegytoMary，andwereverybeautiful，Ireadthemaloud，andwhenIhadfinishedshethankedmeandsaidshehadnodoubtthatifIpleasedIcouldputthemintoWelsh—shethensighedandwipedhereyes。

Onourenquiringwhetherwecouldseetheinterioroftheabbeyshesaidwecould，andthatifwerangabellatthegateawomanwouldcometous，whowasinthehabitofshowingtheplace。Wethengotupandbadeherfarewell—butshebeggedthatwewouldstayandtastethedwrsantaiddoftheholywell。

"Whatholywellisthat？"saidI。

"Awell，"saidshe，"bytheroad’sside，whichinthetimeofthepopeswassaidtoperformwonderfulcures。"

"Letustasteitbyallmeans，"saidI；whereuponshewentout，andpresentlyreturnedwithatrayonwhichwereajugandtumbler，thejugfilledwiththewateroftheholywell；wedranksomeofthedwrsantaidd，whichtastedlikeanyotherwater，andthenaftershakingherbythehand，wewenttothegate，andrangatthebell。

Presentlyawomanmadeherappearanceatthegate—shewasgenteellydrest，aboutthemiddleage，rathertall，andbearinginhercountenancethetracesofbeauty。Whenwetoldhertheobjectofourcomingsheadmittedus，andafterlockingthegateconductedusintothechurch。Itwasroofless，andhadnothingremarkableaboutit，savethewesternwindow，whichwehadseenfromwithout。

Ourattendantpointedouttoussometombs，andtoldusthenamesofcertaingreatpeoplewhosedusttheycontained。"CanyoutelluswhereIoloGochliesinterred？"saidI。

"No，"saidshe；"indeedIneverheardofsuchaperson。"

"HewasthebardofOwenGlendower，"saidI，"andassistedhiscausewonderfullybythefieryodes，inwhichheincitedtheWelshtoriseagainsttheEnglish。"

"Indeed！"saidshe；"well，IamsorrytosaythatIneverheardofhim。"

"AreyouWelsh？"saidI。

"Iam，"shereplied。

"DidyoueverhearofThomasEdwards？"

"Oh，yes，"saidshe；"Ihavefrequentlyheardofhim。"

"Howodd，"saidI，"thatthenameofagreatpoetshouldbeunknownintheveryplacewhereheisburied，whilstthatofonecertainlynothissuperior，shouldbewellknowninthatsameplace，thoughheisnotburiedthere。"

"Perhaps，"saidshe，"thereasonisthatthepoet，whomyoumentioned，wroteintheoldmeasuresandlanguagewhichfewpeoplenowunderstand，whilstThomasEdwardswroteincommonverseandinthelanguageofthepresentday。"

"Idaresayitisso，"saidI。

Fromthechurchsheledustootherpartsoftheruin—atfirstshehadspokentousrathercrossandloftily，butshenowbecamekindandcommunicative。Shesaidthatsheresidedneartheruins，whichshewaspermittedtoshow，thatshelivedalone，andwishedtobealone；therewassomethingsingularabouther，andIbelievethatshehadahistoryofherown。Aftershowingustheruinssheconductedustoacottageinwhichshelived；itstoodbehindtheruinsbyafish—pond，inabeautifulandromanticplaceenough；shesaidthatinthewintershewentaway，buttowhatplaceshedidnotsay。Sheaskeduswhetherwecamewalking，andonourtellingherthatwedid，shesaidthatshewouldpointouttousanearwayhome。Shethenpointedtoapathupahill，tellinguswemustfollowit。Aftermakingherapresentwebadeherfarewell，andpassingthroughameadowcrossedabrookbyarusticbridge，formedofthestemofatree，andascendingthehillbythepathwhichshehadpointedout，wewentthroughacornfieldortwoonitstop，andatlastfoundourselvesontheLlangollenroad，afteramostbeautifulwalk。

CHAPTERXIV

ExpeditiontoRuthyn—TheColumn—SlateQuarries—TheGwyddelod—NocturnalAdventure。

NOTHINGworthyofcommemorationtookplaceduringthetwofollowingdays，savethatmyselfandfamilytookaneveningwalkontheWednesdayupthesideoftheBerwyn，forthepurposeofbotanizing，inwhichwewereattendedbyJohnJones。There，amongstotherplants，wefoundacuriousmosswhichourgoodfriendsaidwascalledinWelsh，CornCarw，ordeer’shorn，andwhichhesaidthedeerwereveryfondof。OntheThursdayheandIstartedonanexpeditiononfoottoRuthyn，distantaboutfourteenmiles，proposingtoreturnintheevening。

ThetownandcastleofRuthynpossessedgreatinterestformefrombeingconnectedwiththeaffairsofOwenGlendower。ItwasatRuthynthatthefirstandnottheleastremarkablesceneoftheWelshinsurrectiontookplacebyOwenmakinghisappearanceatthefairheldthereinfourteenhundred，plunderingtheEnglishwhohadcomewiththeirgoods，slayingmanyofthem，sackingthetownandconcludinghisday’sworkbyfiringit；anditwasatthecastleofRuthynthatLordGreydwelt，aminionofHenrytheFourthandGlendower’sdeadliestenemy，andwhowastheprincipalcauseofthechieftain’senteringintorebellion，having，inthehopeofobtaininghisestatesinthevaleofClwyd，poisonedthemindofHarryagainsthim，whoproclaimedhimatraitor，beforehehadcommittedanyactoftreason，andconfiscatedhisestates，bestowingthatpartofthemuponhisfavourite，whichthelatterwasdesirousofobtaining。

Westartedonourexpeditionataboutseveno’clockofabrilliantmorning。Wepassedbytheabbeyandpresentlycametoasmallfountainwithalittlestoneedifice，withasharptopaboveit。

"Thatistheholywell，"saidmyguide："LlaweriawnobarchynyramseryrPabyddionyroeddi’rfynnonhwn—muchrespectinthetimesofthePapiststherewastothisfountain。"

"Iheardofit，"saidI，"andtastedofitswatertheothereveningattheabbey；"shortlyafterwesawatallstonestandinginafieldonourrighthandataboutahundredyards’distancefromtheroad。"ThatisthepillarofEliseg，sir，"saidmyguide。"Letusgoandseeit，"saidI。Wesoonreachedthestone。Itisafineuprightcolumnaboutsevenfeethigh，andstandsonaquadratebase。"Sir，"saidmyguide，"adeadkingliesburiedbeneaththisstone。Hewasamightymanofvalourandfoundedtheabbey。HewascalledEliseg。""PerhapsEllis，"saidI，"andifhisnamewasEllisthestonewasveryproperlycalledColofnEliseg，inSaxontheEllisiancolumn。"Theviewfromthecolumnisverybeautiful，belowonthesouth—eastisthevenerableabbey，slumberinginitsgreenmeadow。Beyonditrunsastream，descendingfromthetopofaglen，atthebottomofwhichtheoldpileissituated；beyondthestreamisaloftyhill。Theglenonthenorthisboundedbyanoblemountain，coveredwithwood。StruckwithitsbeautyI

inquireditsname。"MoelEglwysig，sir，"saidmyguide。"TheMoeloftheChurch，"saidI。"Thatishardlyagoodnameforit，forthehillisnotbald（moel）。""True，sir，"saidJohnJones。"Atpresentitsnameisgoodfornothing，butestalom（ofold）beforethehillwasplantedwithtreesitsnamewasgoodenough。Ourfatherswerenotfoolswhentheynamedtheirhills。""Idaresaynot，"saidI，"norinmanyotherthingswhichtheydid，forwhichwelaughatthem，becausewedonotknowthereasonstheyhadfordoingthem。"Weregainedtheroad；theroadtendedtothenorthupasteepascent。IaskedJohnJonesthenameofabeautifulvillage，whichlayfarawayonourright，overtheglen，andnearitstop。"Pentrefydwr，sir"（thevillageofthewater）。Itiscalledthevillageofthewater，becausetheriverbelowcomesdownthroughpartofit。Inextaskedthenameofthehillupwhichweweregoing，andhetoldmeAlltBwlch；thatis，thehighplaceofthehollowroad。

Thisbwlch，orhollowway，wasaregularpass，whichputmewonderfullyinmindofthepassesofSpain。Ittookusalongtimetogettothetop。Afterrestingaminuteonthesummitwebegantodescend。Myguidepointedouttomesomeslate—works，atsomedistanceonourleft。"Thereisagreatdealofworkgoingonthere，sir，"saidhe："alltheslatesthatyouseedescendingthecanalatLlangollencamefromthere。"Thenextmomentweheardablast，andthenathunderingsound："Llaiscraigynsyrthiaw；thevoiceoftherockinfalling，sir，"saidJohnJones；"blastingisdangerousandawfulwork。"Wereachedthebottomofthedescent，andproceededfortwoorthreemilesupanddownaroughandnarrowroad；Ithenturnedroundandlookedatthehillswhichwehadpassedover。Theylookedbulkyandhuge。

Wecontinuedourway，andpresentlysawmarksofafireinsomegrassbythesideoftheroad。"HavetheGipsiaidbeenthere？"

saidItomyguide。

"Hardly，sir；IshouldratherthinkthattheGwyddelaid（Irish）

havebeencampingtherelately。"

"TheGwyddeliad？"

"Yes，sir，thevagabondGwyddeliad，whoatpresentinfestthesepartsmuch，anddomuchmoreharmthantheGipsiaideverdid。"

"WhatdoyoumeanbytheGipsiaid？"

"Dark，handsomepeople，sir，whooccasionallyusedtocomeaboutinvansandcarts，themenbuyingandsellinghorses，andsometimestinkering，whilstthewomentoldfortunes。"

"Andtheyhaveceasedtocomeabout？"

"Nearlyso，sir；IbelievetheyhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelod。"

"WhatkindofpeoplearetheseGwyddelod？

"Savage，brutishpeople，sir；ingeneralwithoutshoesandstockings，withcoarsefeaturesandheadsofhairlikemops。"

"Howdotheylive？"

"Thementinkeralittle，sir，butmorefrequentlyplunder。Thewomentellfortunes，andstealwhenevertheycan。"

"TheylivesomethingliketheGipsiaid。"

"Something，sir；butthehenGipsiaidweregentlefolksincomparison。"

"YouthinktheGipsiaidhavebeenfrightenedawaybytheGwyddelians？"

"Ido，sir；theGwyddelodmadetheirappearanceinthesepartsabouttwentyyearsago，andsincethentheGipsiaidhavebeenrarelyseen。"

"AretheseGwyddelodpoor？"

"Bynomeans，sir；theymakelargesumsbyplunderingandothermeans，withwhich，’tissaid，theyretireatlasttotheirowncountryorAmerica，wheretheybuylandandsettledown。"