第12章
CHAPTERXXIV
CerrigyDrudion—TheLandlady—DoctorJones—CollGwynfa—TheItalian—MenofComo—Disappointment—Weather—Glasses—
Southey。
THEinnatCerrigyDrudionwascalledtheLion—whetherthewhite，black，redorgreenLion，Idonotknow，thoughIamcertainthatitwasalionofsomecolourorother。Itseemedasdecentandrespectableahostelryasanytravellercouldwish，torefreshandreposehimselfin，afterawalkoftwentymiles。Ienteredawell—lightedpassage，andfromthenceawell—lightedbarroom，ontherighthand，inwhichsatastout，comely，elderlylady，dressedinsilksandsatins，withacambriccoifonherhead，incompanywithathin，elderlymanwithahatonhishead，dressedinaratherprimandprecisemanner。"Madam！"saidI，bowingtothelady，"asIsupposeyouarethemistressofthisestablishment，I
begleavetoinformyouthatIamanEnglishman，walkingthroughtheseregions，inorderfullytoenjoytheirbeautiesandwonders。
IhavethisdaycomefromLlangollen，andbeingsomewhathungryandfatigued，hopeIcanbeaccommodatedherewithadinnerandabed。"
"Sir！"saidthelady，gettingupandmakingmeaprofoundcurtsey，"Iam，asyousuppose，themistressofthisestablishment，andamhappytosaythatIshallbeabletoaccommodateyou—praysitdown，sir；"shecontinued，handingmeachair，"youmustindeedbetired，forLlangollenisagreatwayfromhere。"
Itooktheseatwiththanks，andsheresumedherown。
"Ratherhotweatherforwalking，sir！"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman。
"Itis，"saidI；"butasIcan’tobservethecountrywellwithoutwalkingthroughit，Iputupwiththeheat。"
"Youexhibitaphilosophicmind，sir，"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman—"andaphilosophicmindIholdinreverence。"
"Pray，sir，"saidI，"haveIthehonourofaddressingamemberofthemedicalprofession？"
"Sir，"saidtheprecise—lookinggentleman，gettingupandmakingmeabow，"yourquestiondoeshonourtoyourpowersofdiscrimination—amemberofthemedicalprofessionIam，thoughanunworthyone。"
"Nay，nay，doctor，"saidthelandladybriskly；"saynotso—everyoneknowsthatyouareacredittoyourprofession—wellwoulditbeifthereweremanyinitlikeyou—unworthy？marrycomeup！I
won’thearsuchanexpression。"
"Isee，"saidI，"thatIhavenotonlythehonourofaddressingamedicalgentleman，butadoctorofmedicine—however，Imighthaveknownasmuchbyyourlanguageanddeportment。"
Withayetlowerbowthanbeforeherepliedwithsomethingofasigh，"No，sir，no，ourkindlandladyandtheneighbourhoodareinthehabitofplacingdoctorbeforemyname，butIhavenotitletoit—IamnotDoctorJones，sir，butplainGefferyJonesatyourservice，"andthereuponwithanotherbowhesatdown。
"Doyouresidehere？"saidI。
"Yes，sir，Iresidehereintheplaceofmybirth—Ihavenotalwaysresidedhere—andIdidnotalwaysexpecttospendmylatterdaysinaplaceofsuchobscurity，but，sir，misfortunes—
misfortunes……"
"Ah，"saidI，"misfortunes！theypursueeveryone，moreespeciallythosewhosevirtuesshouldexemptthemfromthem。Well，sir，theconsciousnessofnothavingdeservedthemshouldbeyourconsolation。"
"Sir，"saidthedoctor，takingoffhishat，"youareinfinitelykind。"
"Youcallthisanobscureplace，"saidI—"canthatbeanobscureplacewhichhasproducedapoet？IhavelonghadarespectforCerrigyDrudionbecauseitgavebirthto，andwastheresidenceofapoetofconsiderablemerit。"
"Iwasnotawareofthatfact，"saidthedoctor，"praywhatwashisname？"
"PeterLewis，"saidI；"hewasaclergymanofCerrigyDrudionaboutthemiddleofthelastcentury，andamongstotherthingswroteabeautifulsongcalledCathlyGairMwys，orthemelodyoftheambiguousword。"
"SurelyyoudonotunderstandWelsh？"saidthedoctor。
"Iunderstandalittleofit，"Ireplied。
"WillyouallowmetospeaktoyouinWelsh？"saidthedoctor。
"Certainly，"saidI。
HespoketomeinWelsh，andIreplied。
"Ha，ha，"saidthelandladyinEnglish；"onlythink，doctor，ofthegentlemanunderstandingWelsh—wemustmindwhatwesaybeforehim。"
"AndareyouanEnglishman？"saidthedoctor。
"Iam，"Ireplied。
"Andhowcameyoutolearnit？"
"Iamfondoflanguages，"saidI，"andstudiedWelshatanearlyperiod。"
"AndyoureadWelshpoetry？"
"Ohyes。"
"Howwereyouenabledtomasteritsdifficulties？"
"ChieflybygoingthroughOwenPugh’sversionof’ParadiseLost’
twice，withtheoriginalbymyside。Hehasintroducedintothattranslationsomanyofthepoetictermsoftheoldbards，thataftertwicegoingthroughit，therewaslittleinWelshpoetrythatIcouldnotmakeoutwithalittlepondering。"
"Youpursuedaveryexcellentplan，sir，"saidthedoctor，"averyexcellentplanindeed。OwenPugh！"
"OwenPugh！Thelastofyourverygreatmen，"saidI。
"Yousayright，sir，"saidthedoctor。"Hewasindeedourlastgreatman—UltimusRomanorum。Ihavemyselfreadhiswork，whichhecalledCollGwynfa，theLossoftheplaceofBliss—anadmirabletranslation，sir；highlypoetical，andatthesametimecorrect。"
"Didyouknowhim？"saidI。
"Ihadnotthehonourofhisacquaintance，"saidthedoctor—"but，sir，IamhappytosaythatIhavemadeyours。"
Thelandladynowbegantotalktomeaboutdinner，andpresentlywentouttomakepreparationsforthatveryimportantmeal。Ihadagreatdealofconversationwiththedoctor，whomIfoundapersonofgreatandvariedinformation，andonewhohadseenavastdealoftheworld。HewasgivingmeanaccountofanislandintheWestIndies，whichhehadvisited，whenaboycomingin，whisperedintohisear；whereupon，gettinguphesaid："Sir，Iamcalledaway。I
amacountrysurgeon，andofcourseanaccoucheur。Thereisaladywholivesatsomedistancerequiringmyassistance。ItiswithgriefIleaveyousoabruptly，butIhopethatsometimeorotherweshallmeetagain。"Thenmakingmeanexceedinglyprofoundbow，helefttheroom，followedbytheboy。
Idinedupstairsinaveryhandsomedrawing—room，communicatingwithasleepingapartment。DuringdinnerIwaswaiteduponbythedaughterofthelandlady，agood—lookingmerrygirloftwenty。
AfterdinnerIsatforsometimethinkingovertheadventuresoftheday，thenfeelingratherlonelyandnotinclinedtoretiretorest，Iwentdowntothebar，whereIfoundthelandladyseatedwithherdaughter。Isatdownwiththemandweweresooninconversation。WespokeofDoctorJones—thelandladysaidthathehadhislittleeccentricities，butwasanexcellentandlearnedman。Speakingofherselfshesaidthatshehadthreedaughters，thattheyoungestwaswithherandthatthetwoeldestkepttheprincipalinnatRuthyn。WeoccasionallyspokealittleWelsh。Atlengththelandladysaid，"ThereisanItalianinthekitchenwhocanspeakWelshtoo。It’soddtheonlytwopeoplenotWelshmenI
haveeverknownwhocouldspeakWelsh，forsuchyouandheare，shouldbeinmyhouseatthesametime。"
"Dearme，"saidI；"Ishouldliketoseehim。"
"Thatyoucaneasilydo，"saidthegirl；"Idaresayhewillbegladenoughtocomeinifyouinvitehim。"
"Praytakemycomplimentstohim，"saidI，"andtellhimthatI
shallbegladofhiscompany。"
ThegirlwentoutandpresentlyreturnedwiththeItalian。Hewasashort，thick，strongly—builtfellowofaboutthirty—seven，withaswarthyface，raven—blackhair，highforehead，anddarkdeepeyes，fullofintelligenceandgreatdetermination。Hewasdressedinavelveteencoat，withbroadlappets，redwaistcoat，velveteenbreeches，buttoningalittlewaybelowtheknee；whitestockingsapparentlyoflamb’s—woolandhigh—lows。
"Buonasera？"saidI。
"Buonasera，signore！"saidtheItalian。
"Willyouhaveaglassofbrandyandwater？"saidIinEnglish。
"Ineverrefuseagoodoffer，"saidtheItalian。
Hesatdown，andIorderedaglassofbrandyandwaterforhimandanotherformyself。
"PrayspeakalittleItaliantohim，"saidthegoodlandladytome。
"Ihaveheardagreatdealaboutthebeautyofthatlanguage，andshouldliketohearitspoken。"
"FromtheLagodiComo？"saidI，tryingtospeakItalian。
"Si，signore！buthowcameyoutothinkthatIwasfromtheLakeofComo？"
"Because，"saidI，"whenIwasaragazzoIknewmanyfromtheLakeofComo，whodressedmuchlikeyourself。Theywanderedaboutthecountrywithboxesontheirbacksandweather—glassesintheirhands，buthadtheirhead—quartersatN。whereIlived。"
"Doyourememberanyoftheirnames？"saidtheItalian。
"GiovanniGestraandLuigiPozzi，"Ireplied。
"IhaveseenGiovanniGestramyself，"saidtheItalian，"andIhaveheardofLuigiPozzi。GiovanniGestrareturnedtotheLago—butnooneknowswhatisbecomeofLuigiPozzi。"
"ThelasttimeIsawhim，"saidI，"wasabouteighteenyearsagoatCorunainSpain；hewastheninasaddroopingcondition，andsaidhebitterlyrepentedeverquittingN。"
"Econragione，"saidtheItalian，"forthereisnoplacelikeN。
fordoingbusinessinthewholeworld。Imyselfhavesoldseventypounds’worthofweather—glassesatN。inoneday。Oneofourpeopleislivingtherenow，whohasdonebene，moltobene。"
"That’sRossi，"saidI，"howisitthatIdidnotmentionhimfirst？Heismyexcellentfriend，andafiner，clevererfellowneverlived，noramorehonourableman。Youmaywellsayhehasdonewell，forheisnowthefirstjewellerintheplace。ThelasttimeIwasthereIboughtadiamondofhimformydaughterHenrietta。Letusdrinkhishealth！"
"Willingly！"saidtheItalian。"HeistheprinceoftheMilaneseofEngland—themostsuccessfulofall，butIacknowledgethemostdeserving。Cheviva。"
"Iwishhewouldwritehislife，"saidI；"asingularlifeitwouldbe—hehasbeensomethingbesidesatravellingmerchant，andajeweller。HewasoneofBuonaparte’ssoldiers，andservedinSpain，underSoult，alongwithJohnGestra。HeoncetoldmethatSoultwasanoldrascal，andstoleallthefinepicturesfromtheconvents，atSalamanca。Ibelievehespokewithsomedegreeofenvy，forheishimselffondofpictures，andhasdealtinthem，andmadehundredsbythem。IquestionwhetherifinSoult’splacehewouldnothavedonethesame。Well，howeverthatmaybe，cheviva。"
Herethelandladyinterposed，observingthatshewishedwewouldnowspeakEnglish，forthatshehadquiteenoughofItalian，whichshedidnotfindnearsoprettyalanguageasshehadexpected。
"YoumustnotjudgeofthesoundofItalianfromwhatproceedsfrommymouth，"saidI。"Itisnotmynativelanguage。Ihavehadlittlepracticeinit，andonlyspeakitveryimperfectly。"
"NormustyoujudgeofItalianfromwhatyouhaveheardmespeak，"
saidthemanofComo；"IamnotgoodatItalian，fortheMilanesespeakamongstthemselvesakindofjargon，composedofmanylanguages，andcanonlyexpressthemselveswithdifficultyinItalian。IhavebeendoingmybesttospeakItalian，butshouldbegladnowtospeakEnglish，whichcomestomemuchmoreglibly。"
"Arethereanybooksinyourdialect，orjergo，asIbelieveyoucallit？"saidI。
"Ibelievethereareafew，"saidtheItalian。
"Doyouknowthewordslandra？"saidI。
"Whotaughtyouthatword？"saidtheItalian。
"GiovanniGestra，"saidI；"hewasalwaysusingit。"
"GiovanniGestrawasavulgarilliterateman，"saidtheItalian；
"hadhenotbeensohewouldnothaveusedit。Itisavulgarword；Rossiwouldnothaveusedit。"
"Whatisthemeaningofit？"saidthelandladyeagerly。
"Toroamaboutinadissipatedmanner，"saidI。
"Somethingmore，"saidtheItalian。"Itisconsideredavulgarwordeveninjergo。"
"YouspeakEnglishremarkablywell，"saidI；"haveyoubeenlonginBritain？"
"Icameoveraboutfouryearsago，"saidtheItalian。
"Onyourownaccount？"saidI。
"Notexactly，signore；mybrother，whowasinbusinessinLiverpool，wrotetometocomeoverandassisthim。Ididso，butsoonlefthim，andtookashopformyselfatDenbigh，where，however，Ididnotstaylong。AtpresentItravelforanItalianhouseinLondon，spendingthesummerinWales，andthewinterinEngland。"
"Andwhatdoyousell？"saidI。
"Weather—glasses，signore—picturesandlittletrinkets，suchasthecountrypeoplelike。"
"Doyousellmanyweather—glassesinWales？"saidI。
"Idonot，signore。TheWelshcarenotforweather—glasses；myprincipalcustomersforweather—glassesarethefarmersofEngland。"
"IamtoldthatyoucanspeakWelsh，"saidI；"isthattrue？"
"Ihavepickedupalittleofit，signore。"
"Hecanspeakitverywell，"saidthelandlady；"andgladshouldI
be，sir，tohearyouandhimspeakWelshtogether。"
"SoshouldI，"saidthedaughterwhowasseatednighus，"nothingwouldgivemegreaterpleasurethantoheartwowhoarenotWelshmenspeakingWelshtogether。"
"IwouldratherspeakEnglish，"saidtheItalian；"IspeakalittleWelsh，whenmybusinessleadsmeamongstpeoplewhospeaknootherlanguage，butIseenonecessityforspeakingWelshhere。"
"Itisapity，"saidI，"thatsobeautifulacountryasItalyshouldnotbebettergoverned。"
"Itis，signore，"saidtheItalian；"butletushopethatatimewillspeedilycomewhenshewillbeso。"
"Idon’tseeanychanceofit，"saidI。"HowwillyouproceedinordertobringaboutsodesirablearesultasthegoodgovernmentofItaly？"
"Why，signore，inthefirstplacewemustgetridoftheAustrians。"
"Youwillnotfinditaneasymatter，"saidI，"togetridoftheAustrians；youtriedtodosoalittletimeago，butmiserablyfailed。"
"True，signore；butthenexttimewetryperhapstheFrenchwillhelpus。"
"IftheFrenchhelpyoutodrivetheAustriansfromItaly，"saidI，"youmustbecometheirservants。ItistrueyouhadbetterbetheservantsofthepolishedandchivalrousFrench，thanofthebrutalandbarbarousGermans，butitisnotpleasanttobeaservanttoanybody。However，IdonotbelievethatyouwillevergetridoftheAustrians，eveniftheFrenchassistyou。ThePopeforcertainreasonsofhisownfavourstheAustrians，andwillexertallthepowersofpriestcrafttokeeptheminItaly。Alas，alas，thereisnohopeforItaly！Italy，themostbeautifulcountryintheworld，thebirth—placeofthecleverestpeople，whoseverypedlarscanlearntospeakWelsh，isnotonlyenslaved，butdestinedalwaystoremainenslaved。"
"Donotsayso，signore，"saidtheItalian，withakindofgroan。
"ButIdosayso，"saidI，"andwhatismore，onewhoseshoe—
strings，werehealive，Ishouldnotheworthytountie，oneofyourmightyones，hassaidso。DidyoueverhearofVincenzioFilicaia？"
"IbelieveIhave，signore；didhenotwriteasonnetonItaly？"
"Hedid，"saidI；"wouldyouliketohearit？
"Verymuch，signore。"
IrepeatedFilicaia’sglorioussonnetonItaly，andthenaskedhimifheunderstoodit。
"Onlyinpart，signore；foritiscomposedinoldTuscan，inwhichIamnotmuchversed。IbelieveIshouldcomprehenditbetterifyouweretosayitinEnglish。"
"DosayitinEnglish，"saidthelandladyandherdaughter："weshouldsoliketohearitinEnglish。"
"Iwillrepeatatranslation，"saidI，"whichImadewhenaboy，whichthoughfarfromgood，has，Ibelieve，initsomethingofthespiritoftheoriginal：—
"OItaly！onwhomdarkDestinyThedangerousgiftofbeautydidbestow，Fromwhencethouhastthatampledowerofwo，Whichonthyfrontthoubear’stsovisibly。
Wouldthouhadstbeautylessorstrengthmorehigh，Thatmoreoffear，andlessoflovemightshow，Hewhonowblastshiminthybeauty’sglow，Orwoostheewithazealthatmakestheedie；
ThendownfromAlpnomorewouldtorrentsrageOfarmedmen，norGalliccoursershotInPo’sensanguin’dtidetheirthirstassuage；
Norgirtwithiron，notthineown，Iwot，WouldstthouthefightbyhandsofstrangerswageVictressorvanquish’dslaverystillthylot。"
CHAPTERXXV
Lacing—upHigh—lows—TheNativeVillage—GameLeg—CroppiesLieDown—KeepingFaith—Processions—CroppiesGetUp—DanielO’Connell。
ISLEPTinthechambercommunicatingwiththeroominwhichIhaddined。Thechamberwasspaciousandairy，thebedfirst—rate，andmyselfrathertired，sothatnoonewillbesurprisedwhenIsaythatIhadexcellentrest。Igotup，andafterdressingmyselfwentdown。Themorningwasexceedinglybrilliant。GoingoutIsawtheItalianlacinguphishigh—lowsagainstastep。Isalutedhim，andaskedhimifhewasabouttodepart。
"Yes，signore；IshallpresentlystartforDenbigh。"
"AfterbreakfastIshallstartforBangor，"saidI。
"DoyouproposetoreachBangorto—night，signore？"
"Yes，"saidI。
"Walking，signore？"
"Yes，"saidI；"IalwayswalkinWales。"
"Thenyouwillhaveratheralongwalk，signore；forBangoristhirty—fourmilesfromhere。"
Iaskedhimifhewasmarried。
"No，signore；butmybrotherinLiverpoolis。"
"ToanItalian？"
"No，signore；toaWelshgirl。"
"AndIsuppose，"saidI，"youwillfollowhisexamplebymarryingone；perhapsthatgood—lookinggirlthelandlady’sdaughterwewereseatedwithlastnight？"
"No，signore；Ishallnotfollowmybrother’sexample。IfeverI
takeawifesheshallbeofmyownvillage，inComo，whitherIhopetoreturn，assoonasIhavepickedupafewmorepounds。"
"WhethertheAustriansaredrivenawayornot？"saidI。
"WhethertheAustriansaredrivenawayornot—fortomymindthereisnocountrylikeComo，signore。"
Iorderedbreakfast；whilsttakingitintheroomaboveIsawthroughtheopenwindowtheItaliantrudgingforthonhisjourney，ahugeboxonhisback，andaweather—glassinhishand—lookingtheexactimageofoneofthosemen，hiscountrypeople，whomfortyyearsbeforeIhadknownatN—。Ithoughtofthecourseoftime，sighedandfeltateargatherinmyeye。
Mybreakfastconcluded，Ipaidmybill，andafterinquiringthewaytoBangor，andbiddingadieutothekindlandladyandherdaughter，setoutfromCerrigyDrudion。Mycourselaywest，acrossaflatcountry，boundedinthefardistancebythemightyhillsIhadseenontheprecedingevening。AfterwalkingaboutamileIovertookamanwithagameleg，thatisalegwhich，eitherbynatureoraccidentnotbeingsolongasitsbrotherleg，hadapattenattachedtoit，aboutfiveincheshigh，toenableittododutywiththeother—hewasafellowwithredshockhairandveryredfeatures，andwasdressedinraggedcoatandbreechesandahatwhichhadlostpartofitscrown，andallitsrim，sothatevenwithoutagameleghewouldhavelookedratheraqueerfigure。Inhishandhecarriedafiddle。
"Goodmorningtoyou，"saidI。
"Agoodmorningtoyourhanner，amerryafternoonandaroaring，joyousevening—thatistheworstluckIwishtoye。"
"Areyouanativeoftheseparts？"saidI。
"Notexactly，yourhanner—IamanativeofthecityofDublin，or，what’sallthesamething，ofthevillageofDonnybrook，whichisclosebyit。"
"Acelebratedplace，"saidI。
"Yourhannermaysaythat；alltheworldhasheardofDonnybrook，owingtothehumoursofitsfair。ManyisthemerrytuneIhaveplayedtotheboysatthatfair。"
"Youareaprofessorofmusic，Isuppose？"
"Andnotaverybadone，asyourhannerwillsay，ifyouallowmetoplayyouatune。"
"CanyouplayCroppiesLieDown？"
"Icannot，yourhanner，myfingersneverlearnttoplaysuchablackguardtune；butifyouwishtohearCroppiesGetUpIcanobligeye。"
"YouareaRomanCatholic，Isuppose？"
"Iamnot，yourhanner—IamaCatholictotheback—bone，justlikemyfatherbeforeme。Come，yourhanner，shallIplayyeCroppiesGetUp？"
"No，"saidI；"it’satunethatdoesn’tpleasemyears。If，however，youchoosetoplayCroppiesLieDown，I’llgiveyouashilling。"
"Yourhannerwillgivemeashilling？"
"Yes，"saidI；"ifyouplayCroppiesLieDown；butyouknowyoucannotplayit，yourfingersneverlearnedthetune。"
"Theyneverdid，yourhanner；buttheyhavehearditplayedofouldbytheblackguardOrangefiddlersofDublinonthefirstofJuly，whentheProtestantboysusedtowalkroundWillie’sstatueonCollegeGreen—soifyourhannergivesmetheshilling，theymayperhapsbringoutsomethinglikeit。"
"Verygood，"saidI；"begin！"
"But，yourhanner，whatshallwedoforthewords？thoughmyfingersmayrememberthetunemytonguedoesnotrememberthewords—thatisunless……"
"Igiveanothershilling，"saidI；"butnevermindyouthewords；I
knowthewords，andwillrepeatthem。"
"Andyourhannerwillgivemeashilling？"
"Ifyouplaythetune，"saidI。
"Hannerbright，yourhanner？"
"Honourbright，"saidI。
Thereuponthefiddlertakinghisbowandshoulderinghisfiddle，struckupinfirst—ratestyletheglorioustune，whichIhadsooftenheardwithraptureinthedaysofmyboyhoodinthebarrack—
yardofClonmel；whilstI，walkingbyhissideashestumpedalong，causedthewelkintoresoundwiththewords，whichwerethedelightoftheyounggentlemenoftheProtestantacademyofthatbeautifuloldtown。
"Ineverheardthosewordsbefore，"saidthefiddler，afterIhadfinishedthefirststanza。
"Getonwithyou，"saidI。
"RegularOrangewords！"saidthefiddler，onmyfinishingthesecondstanza。
"Doyouchoosetogeton？"saidI。
"MoreblackguardOrangewordsIneverheard！"criedthefiddler，onmycomingtotheconclusionofthethirdstanza。"DivilabitfartherwillIplay；atanyratetillIgettheshilling。"
"Hereitisforyou，"saidI；"thesongisended，and，ofcourse，thetune。"
"Thankyourhanner，"saidthefiddler，takingthemoney，"yourhannerhaskeptyourwordwithme，whichismorethanIthoughtyourhannerwould。Andnowyourhannerletmeaskyouwhydidyourhannerwishforthattune，whichisnotonlyablackguardonebutquiteoutofdate；andwheredidyourhannergetthewords？"
"Iusedtohearthetuneinmyboyishdays，"saidI，"andwishedtohearitagain，forthoughyoucallitablackguardtune，itisthesweetestandmostnobleairthatIreland，thelandofmusic，haseverproduced。Asforthewords，nevermindwhereIgotthem；theyareviolentenough，butnothalfsoviolentasthewordsofsomeofthesongsmadeagainsttheIrishProtestantsbythepriests。"