第13章

"YourhannerisanOrangeman，Isee。Well，yourhanner，theOrangeisnowinthekennel，andtheCroppieshaveitalltheirownway。"

"Andperhaps，"saidI，"beforeIdie，theOrangewillbeoutofthekennelandtheCroppiesin，evenastheywereinmyyoungdays。"

"Whoknows，yourhanner？andwhoknowsthatImaynotplaytheoldtuneroundWillie’simageinCollegeGreen，evenasIusedsometwenty—sevenyearsago？"

"OhthenyouhavebeenanOrangefiddler？"

"Ihave，yourhanner。AndnowasyourhannerhasbehavedlikeagentlemantomeIwilltellyeallmyhistory。IwasborninthecityofDublin，thatisinthevillageofDonnybrook，asItouldyourhannerbefore。ItwastothetradeofbricklayingIwasbred，andbricklayingIfollowedtillatlast，gettingmylegsmashed，notbyfallingofftheladder，butbyarowinthefair，Iwasobligedtogiveitup，forhowcouldIrunuptheladderwithapattenonmyfoot，whichtheyputontomakemybrokenlegaslongastheother。Wellyourhanner，beingobligedtogiveupmybricklaying，Itooktofiddling，towhichIhadalwaysanaturalinclination，andplayedaboutthestreets，andatfairs，andwakes，andweddings。AtlengthsomeOrangemengettingacquaintedwithme，andlikingmystyleofplaying，invitedmetotheirlodge，wheretheygavemetodrinkandtouldmethatifIwouldchangemyreligion，andjointhem，andplaytheirtunes，theywouldmakeitanswermypurpose。Well，yourhanner，withoutmuchsticklingI

gaveupmyPopery，joinedtheOrangelodge，learnedtheOrangetunes，andbecamearegularProtestantboy，andtrulytheOrangemenkepttheirword，andmadeitanswermypurpose。OhthemeatanddrinkIgot，andthemoneyImadebyplayingattheOrangelodgesandbeforetheprocessionswhentheOrangemenparadedthestreetswiththeirOrangecolours。Andoh，whatadayformewasthegloriousfirstofJulywhenwithmywholebodycoveredwithOrangeribbons，IfiddledCroppiesLieDown，BoyneWater，andtheProtestantBoysbeforetheprocessionwhichwalkedroundWillie’sfigureonhorsebackinCollegeGreen，themanandhorseallablazewithOrangecolours。Butnothinglastsunderthesun，asyourhannerknows；Orangeismbegantogodown；theGovernmentscowledatit，andatlastpassedalawpreventingtheProtestantboysdressingupthefigureonthefirstofJuly，andwalkingroundit。

Thatwasthedeath—blowoftheOrangeparty，yourhanner；theyneverrecoveredit，butbegantodespondanddwindle，andIwiththem；fortherewasscarcelyanydemandforOrangetunes。ThenDanO’Connellarosewithhisemancipationandrepalecries，andtheninsteadofOrangeprocessionsandwalkings，therewerePapistprocessionsandmobs，whichmademeafraidtostirout，lestknowingmeforanOrangefiddler，theyshouldbreakmyhead，astheboysbrokemylegatDonnybrookfair。AtlengthsomeoftherepalersandemancipatorsknowingthatIwasafirst—ratehandatfiddlingcametomeandtouldme，thatifIwouldgiveoverplayingCroppiesLieDownandotherOrangetunes，andwouldplayCroppiesGetUp，andwhatnot，andbecomeaCatholicandarepaler，andanemancipator，theywouldmakeamanofme—soasmyOrangetradewasgone，andIwashalf—starved，Iconsinted，nothowevertilltheyhadintroducedmetoDanielO’Connell，whocalledmeacridittomycountry，andtheIrishHorpheus，andpromisedmeasovereignifIwouldconsinttojointhecause，ashecalledit。Well，yourhanner，IjoinedwiththecauseandbecameaPapist，ImaneaCatholiconcemore，andwentattheheadofprocessionscoveredalloverwithgreenribbons，playingCroppiesGetUp，GrannyWhale，andthelike。But，yourhanner，thoughIwentthewholehogwiththerepalersandemancipators，theydidnotmaketheirwordsgoodbymakingamanofme。Scantandsparingweretheyinthemateanddrink，andyetmoresparinginthemoney，andDanielO’Connellnevergavemethesovereignwhichhepromisedme。No，yourhanner，thoughIplayedCroppiesGetUp，tillmyfingersached，asI

stumpedbeforehimandhismobsandprocessions，henevergavemethesovereign：unlikeyourhannerwhogavemetheshillingyepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesLieDown，DanielO’ConnellnevergavemethesovereignhepromisedmeforplayingCroppiesGetUp。

Och，yourhanner，IoftenwishedtheouldOrangedayswerebackagain。HoweverasIcoulddonobetterIcontinuedgoingthewholehogwiththeemancipatorsandrepalersandDanO’Connell；Iwentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadgotemancipation；andI

wentthewholeanimalwiththemtilltheyhadnearlygotrepale—

whenallofasuddentheyletthewholethingdrop—DanandhispartyhavingfrightedtheGovernmentoutofitssevensenses，andgottenalltheycouldget，inmoneyandplaces，whichwasalltheywanted，letthewholehullabaloodrop，andofcoursemyself，whoformedpartofit。IwenttothosewhohadpersuadedmetogiveupmyOrangetunes，andtoplayPapistones，beggingthemtogivemework；buttheytouldmeverycivillythattheyhadnofurtheroccasionformyservices。IwenttoDanielO’Connellremindinghimofthesovereignhehadpromisedme，andofferingifhegaveitmetoplayCroppiesGetUpunderthenoseofthelord—lieutenanthimself；buthetouldmethathehadnottimetoattendtome，andwhenIpersisted，bademegototheDivilandshakemyself。Well，yourhanner，seeingnoprospectformyselfinmyowncountry，andhavingincurredsomelittledebts，forwhichIfearedtobearrested，IcameovertoEnglandandWales，wherewithlittlecontentandsatisfactionIhavepassedsevenyears。"

"Well，"saidI；"thankyouforyourhistory—farewell。"

"Stap，yourhanner；doesyourhannerthinkthattheOrangewilleverbeoutofthekennel，andthattheOrangeboyswilleverwalkroundthebrassmanandhorseinCollegeGreenastheydidofould？"

"Whoknows？"saidI。"Butsupposeallthatweretohappen，whatwoulditsignifytoyou？"

"WhythendivilbeinmypattenifIwouldnotgobacktoDonnybrookandDublin，hoisttheOrangecockade，andbecomeasgoodanOrangeboyasever。"

"What，"saidI，"andgiveupPoperyforthesecondtime？"

"Iwould，yourhanner；andwhynot？forinspiteofwhatIhaveheardFatherTobansay，IambynomeanscertainthatallProtestantswillbedamned。"

"Farewell，"saidI。

"Farewell，yourhanner，andlonglifeandprosperitytoyou！GodblessyourhannerandyourOrangeface。Ah，theOrangeboysaretheboysforkeepingfaith。TheyneverservedmeasDanO’Connellandhisdirtygangofrepalersandemancipatorsdid。Farewell，yourhanner，oncemore；andhere’sanotherscratchoftheilliganttuneyourhannerissofondof，tocheerupyourhanner’searsuponyourway。"

AndlongafterIhadlefthimIcouldhearhimplayingonhisfiddleinfirst—ratestylethebeautifultuneof"Down，down，CroppiesLieDown。"

CHAPTERXXVI

CeiniogMawr—PentreVoelas—TheOldConway—StupendousPass—

TheGwedirFamily—CapelCurig—TheTwoChildren—Bread—

WonderfulEcho—TremendousWalker。

IWALKEDonbrisklyoveraflatuninterestingcountry，andinaboutanhour’stimecameinfrontofalargestonehouse。Itstoodneartheroad，ontheleft—handside，withapondandpleasanttreesbeforeit，andanumberofcorn—stacksbehind。Ithadsomethingtheappearanceofaninn，butdisplayednosign。AsIwasstandinglookingatit，amanwiththelookofalabourer，andwithadogbyhisside，cameoutofthehouseandadvancedtowardsme。

"Whatisthenameofthisplace？"saidItohiminEnglishashedrewnigh。

"Sir，"saidtheman，"thenameofthehouseisCeiniogMawr。"

"Isitaninn？"saidI。

"Notnow，sir；butsomeyearsagoitwasaninn，andaverylargeone，atwhichcoachesusedtostop；atpresentitisoccupiedbyanamaethwr—thatisafarmer，sir。"

"CeiniogMawrmeansagreatpenny，"saidI，"whyisitcalledbythatname？"

"Ihaveheard，sir，thatbeforeitwasaninnitwasaveryconsiderableplace，namelyaroyalmint，atwhichpenniesweremade，andonthataccountitwascalledCeiniogMawr。"

IwassubsequentlytoldthatthenameofthisplacewasCerniogeMawr。Ifsuchbetherealnamethelegendaboutthemintfallstotheground，Cerniogehavingnothingtodowithpence。CerninWelshmeansajaw。PerhapsthetruenameofthehouseisCorniawg，whichinterpretedisaplacewithplentyofturretsorchimneys。A

mileortwofurtherthegroundbegantorise，andIcametoasmallvillageattheentranceofwhichwasawater—wheel—nearthevillagewasagentleman’sseatalmostsurroundedbygroves。AfterIhadpassedthroughthevillage，seeingawomanseatedbytheroadsideknitting，IaskedherinEnglishitsname。FindingshehadnoSaesnegIrepeatedthequestioninWelsh，whereuponshetoldmethatitwascalledPentreVoelas。

"Andwhomdoesthe’Plas’belongtoyonderamongstthegroves？"

saidI。

"ItbelongstoMrWynn，sir，andsodoesthevillageandagreatdealofthelandabouthere。AverygoodgentlemanisMrWynn，sir；heisverykindtohistenantsandaverygoodladyisMrsWynn，sir；inthewintershegivesmuchsouptothepoor。"

AfterleavingthevillageofPentreVoelasIsoonfoundmyselfinawildhillyregion。Icrossedabridgeoverariver，which，brawlingandtumblingamidstrocks，shapeditscoursetothenorth—

east。AsIproceeded，thecountrybecamemoreandmorewild；thereweredinglesandhollowsinabundance，andfantastic—lookinghills，someofwhichwerebare，andotherscladwithtreesofvariouskinds。Cametoalittlewellinacavity，duginahighbankontheleft—handsideoftheroad，andfencedbyrudestoneworkoneitherside；thewellwasaboutteninchesindiameter，andasmanydeep。Wateroozingfromthebankuponaslantingtilefastenedintotheearthfellintoit。Afterdamminguptheendofthetilewithmyhand，anddrinkingsomedeliciouswater，Ipassedonandpresentlyarrivedatacottage，justinsidethedoorofwhichsatagood—lookingmiddle—agedwomanengagedinknitting，thegeneraloccupationofWelshfemales。

"Good—day，"saidItoherinWelsh。"Fineweather。"

"Intruth，sir，itisfineweatherfortheharvest。"

"Areyoualoneinthehouse？"

"Iam，sir，myhusbandhasgonetohislabour。"

"Haveyouanychildren？"

"Two，sir；buttheyareoutatservice。"

"Whatisthenameofthisplace？"

"PantPaddock，sir。"

"Doyougetyourwaterfromthelittlewellyonder？"

"Wedo，sir，andgoodwateritis。"

"Ihavedrunkofit。"

"Muchgoodmaywhatyouhavedrunkdoyou，sir！"

"Whatisthenameoftherivernearhere？"

"ItiscalledtheConway，sir。"

"Dearme；isthatrivertheConway？"

"Youhaveheardofit，sir？"

"Heardofit！itisoneofthefamousriversoftheworld。Thepoetsareveryfondofit—oneofthegreatpoetsofmycountrycallsittheoldConway。"

"Isoneriverolderthananother，sir？"

"That’sashrewdquestion。Canyouread？"

"Ican，sir。"

"Haveyouanybooks？"

"IhavetheBible，sir。"

"Willyoushowitme？"

"Willingly，sir。"

Thengettingupshetookabookfromashelfandhandedittome，atthesametimebeggingmetoenterthehouseandsitdown。I

declined，andsheagaintookherseatandresumedheroccupation。

Onopeningthebookthefirstwordswhichmetmyeyewere："Gadimifynedtrwydydir！—Letmegothroughyourcountry"（Numb。XX。

22）。

"Imaysaythesewords，"saidI，pointingtothepassage。"Letmegothroughyourcountry。"

"Noonewillhinderyou，sir，foryouseemacivilgentleman。"

"Noonehashinderedmehitherto。WhereverIhavebeeninWalesI

haveexperiencednothingbutkindnessandhospitality，andwhenI

returntomyowncountryIwillsayso。"

"Whatcountryisyours，sir？"

"England。Didyounotknowthatbymytongue？"

"Ididnot，sir。Iknewbyyourtonguethatyouwerenotfromourparts—butIdidnotknowthatyouwereanEnglishman。ItookyouforaCumroofthesouthcountry。"

Returningthekindwomanherbook，andbiddingherfarewellI

departed，andproceededsomemilesthroughatrulymagnificentcountryofwood，rock，andmountain。AtlengthIcametoasteepmountaingorge，downwhichtheroadrannearlyduenorth，theConwaytotheleftrunningwithgreatnoiseparallelwiththeroad，amongstbrokenrocks，whichchafeditintofoam。Iwasnowamidststupendoushills，whosepaps，peaks，andpinnaclesseemedtorisetotheveryheaven。Animmensemountainontherightsideoftheroadparticularlystruckmyattention，andoninquiringofamanbreakingstonesbytheroadsideIlearnedthatitwascalledDinasMawr，orthelargecitadel，perhapsfromaforthavingbeenbuiltuponittodefendthepassintheoldBritishtimes。ComingtothebottomofthepassIcrossedoverbyanancientbridge，and，passingthroughasmalltown，foundmyselfinabeautifulvalleywithmajestichillsoneitherside。ThiswastheDyffrynConway，thecelebratedValeofConway，towhichinthesummertimefashionablegentryfromallpartsofBritainresortforshadeandrelaxation。WhenaboutmidwaydownthevalleyIturnedtothewest，uponeofthegrandestpassesintheworld，havingtwoimmensedoor—postsofrockattheentrance。thenorthernoneprobablyrisingtothealtitudeofninehundredfeet。Onthesouthernsideofthispassneartheentrancewereneatdwellingsfortheaccommodationofvisitorswithcoolapartmentsonthegroundfloor，withlargewindows，lookingtowardstheprecipitoussideofthemightynorthernhill；withinthemIobservedtables，andbooks，andyoungmen，probablyEnglishcollegians，seatedatstudy。

AfterIhadproceededsomewayupthepass，downwhichasmallriverran，awomanwhowasstandingontheright—handsideoftheway，seeminglyonthelook—out，beggedmeinbrokenEnglishtostepasideandlookatthefall。

"Youmeanawaterfall，Isuppose？"saidI。

"Yes，sir。"

"Andhowdoyoucallit？"saidI。

"TheFalloftheSwallow，sir。"

"AndinWelsh？"saidI。

"RhaiadryWennol，sir。"

"Andwhatisthenameoftheriver？"saidI。

"WecalltherivertheLygwy，sir。"

ItoldthewomanIwouldgo，whereuponsheconductedmethroughagateontheright—handsideanddownapathoverhungwithtreestoarockprojectingintotheriver。TheFalloftheSwallowisnotamajesticsinglefall，butasuccessionofsmallones。Firstthereareanumberoflittlefoamingtorrents，burstingthroughrocksabouttwentyyardsabovethepromontoryonwhichIstood。Thencometwobeautifulrollsofwhitewater，dashingintoapoolalittlewayabovethepromontory；thenthereisaswirlofwaterrounditscornerintoapoolbelowonitsright，blackasdeath，andseeminglyofgreatdepth；thenarushthroughaverynarrowoutletintoanotherpool，fromwhichthewaterclamoursawaydowntheglen。SuchistheRhaiadryWennol，orSwallowFall；calledsofromtherapiditywithwhichthewatersrushandskipalong。

Onaskingthewomanonwhosepropertythefallwas，sheinformedmethatitwasonthepropertyoftheGwedirfamily。ThenameofGwedirbroughttomymindthe"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily，"arareandcuriousbookwhichIhadreadinmyboyhood，andwhichwaswrittenbytherepresentativeofthatfamily，acertainSirJohnWynne，aboutthebeginningoftheseventeenthcentury。Itgivesanaccountofthefortunesofthefamily，fromitsearliestrise；butmoreparticularlyafterithademigrated，inordertoavoidbadneighbours，fromafairandfertiledistrictintoruggedSnowdonia，whereitfoundanythingbutthereposeitcameinquestof。ThebookwhichiswritteninboldgraphicEnglish，flingsconsiderablelightonthestateofsocietyinWales，inthetimeoftheTudors，atrulydeplorablestate，asthebookisfullofaccountsoffeuds，pettybutdesperateskirmishes，andrevengefulmurders。Tomanyofthedomesticsagas，orhistoriesofancientIcelandicfamilies，fromthecharacteroftheeventswhichitdescribesandalsofromthemannerinwhichitdescribesthem，the"HistoryoftheGwedirFamily，"bySirJohnWynne，bearsastrikingresemblance。

AftergivingthewomansixpenceIleftthefall，andproceededonmyway。Ipresentlycrossedabridgeunderwhichrantheriverofthefall，andwassooninawidevalleyoneachsideofwhichwereloftyhillsdottedwithwood，andatthetopofwhichstoodamightymountain，bareandprecipitous，withtwopapslikethoseofPindusoppositeJanina，butsomewhatsharper。Itwasaregionoffairybeautyandofwildgrandeur。Meetinganoldbleared—eyedfarmerIinquiredthenameofthemountainandlearnedthatitwascalledMoelSiabodorShabod。Shortlyafterleavinghim，Iturnedfromtheroadtoinspectamonticlewhichappearedtometohavesomethingoftheappearanceofaburialheap。Itstoodinagreenmeadowbytheriverwhichrandownthevalleyontheleft。Whetheritwasagravehilloranaturalmonticle，Iwillnotsay；butstandinginthefairmeadow，therivuletmurmuringbesideit，andtheoldmountainlookingdownuponit，Ithoughtitlookedaverymeetresting—placeforanoldCelticking。

TurningroundthenorthernsideofthemightySiabodIsoonreachedthevillageofCapelCurig，standinginavalleybetweentwohills，theeasternmostofwhichistheaforesaidMoelSiabod。HavingwalkednowtwentymilesinabroilingdayIthoughtithightimetotakesomerefreshment，andinquiredthewaytotheinn。Theinn，orratherthehotel，foritwasaverymagnificentedifice，stoodattheentranceofapassleadingtoSnowdon，onthesouthernsideofthevalley，inatotallydifferentdirectionfromtheroadleadingtoBangor，towhichplaceIwasbound。ThereIdinedinagrandsaloonamidstagreatdealoffashionablecompany，who，probablyconceivingfrommyheatedanddustyappearancethatIwassomepoorfellowtravellingonfootfrommotivesofeconomy，surveyedmewithlooksofthemostsuperciliousdisdain，which，however，neitherdeprivedmeofmyappetitenoroperateduncomfortablyonmyfeelings。

Mydinnerfinished，Ipaidmybill，andhavingsaunteredalittleaboutthehotelgarden，whichissituatedontheborderofasmalllakeandfromwhich，throughthevistaofthepass，Snowdonmaybeseentoweringinmajestyatthedistanceofaboutsixmiles，I

startedforBangor，whichisfourteenmilesfromCapelCurig。

TheroadtoBangorfromCapelCurigisalmostduewest。Anhour’swalkingbroughtmetoableakmoor，extendingforalongwayamidstwildsterilehills。

Thefirstofachainontheleft，wasahugelumpyhillwithaprecipicetowardstheroadprobablythreehundredfeethigh。WhenIhadcomenearlyparallelwiththecommencementofthisprecipice，Isawontheleft—handsideoftheroadtwochildrenlookingoveralowwallbehindwhichatalittledistancestoodawretchedhovel。

OncomingupIstoppedandlookedatthem；theywereaboyandgirl；thefirstabouttwelve，thelatterayearortwoyounger；

bothwretchedlydressedandlookingverysickly。

"HaveyouanyEnglish？"saidI，addressingtheboyinWelsh。

"Dimgair，"saidtheboy；"notaword；thereisnoSaesnegnearhere。"

"Whatisthenameofthisplace？"

"ThenameofourhouseisHelyg。"

"Andwhatisthenameofthathill？"saidI，pointingtothehilloftheprecipice。

"AlltyGog—thehighplaceofthecuckoo。"

"Haveyouafatherandmother？"

"Wehave。"

"Aretheyinthehouse？"

"TheyaregonetoCapelCurig。"

"Andtheyleftyoualone？"

"Theydid。Withthecatandthetrin—wire。"

"Doyourfatherandmothermakewire—work？"

"Theydo。Theylivebymakingit。"

"Whatisthewire—workfor？"

"Itisforhedgestofencethefieldswith。"

"Doyouhelpyourfatherandmother？"

"Wedo；asfaraswecan。"

"Youbothlookunwell。"

"Wehavelatelyhadthecryd"（ague）。

"Istheremuchcrydabouthere？"

"Plenty。"

"Doyoulivewell？"

"Whenwehavebreadwelivewell。"

"IfIgiveyouapennywillyoubringmesomewater？"

"Wewill，whetheryougiveusapennyornot。Come，sister，letusgoandfetchthegentlemanwater。"

Theyranintothehouseandpresentlyreturned，thegirlbearingapanofwater。AfterIhaddrunkIgaveeachofthechildrenapenny，andreceivedinreturnfromeachadiolchorthanks。

"Caneitherofyouread？"

"Neitheronenortheother。"

"Canyourfatherandmotherread？"

"Myfathercannot，mymothercanalittle。"

"Aretherebooksinthehouse？"

"Therearenot。"

"NoBible？"

"Thereisnobookatall。"

"Doyougotochurch？"

"Wedonot。"

"Tochapel？"

"Infineweather。"

"Areyouhappy？"

"Whenthereisbreadinthehouseandnocrydweareallhappy。"

"Farewelltoyou，children。"

"Farewelltoyou，gentleman！"exclaimedboth。

"Ihavelearntsomething，"saidI，"ofWelshcottagelifeandfeelingfromthatpoorsicklychild。"

Ihadpassedthefirstandsecondofthehillswhichstoodontheleft，andahugelongmountainontherightwhichconfrontedboth，whenayoungmancamedownfromagullyonmylefthand，andproceededinthesamedirectionasmyself。Hewasdressedinabluecoatandcorduroytrowsers，andappearedtobeofaconditionalittleabovethatofalabourer。HeshookhisheadandscowledwhenIspoketohiminEnglish，butsmiledonmyspeakingWelsh，andsaid："Ah，youspeakCumraeg：IthoughtnoSaiscouldspeakCumraeg。"Iaskedhimifhewasgoingfar。

"Aboutfourmiles，"hereplied。

"OntheBangorroad？"

"Yes，"saidhe；"downtheBangorroad。"

Ilearnedthathewasacarpenter，andthathehadbeenupthegullytoseeanacquaintance—perhapsasweetheart。WepassedalakeonourrightwhichhetoldmewascalledLlynOgwen，andthatitaboundedwithfish。Hewasveryamusing，andexpressedgreatdelightathavingfoundanEnglishmanwhocouldspeakWelsh；"itwillbeathingtotalkof，"saidhe，"fortherestofmylife。"

Heenteredtwoorthreecottagesbythesideoftheroad，andeachtimehecameoutIheardhimsay："IamwithaSaiswhocanspeakCumraeg。"Atlengthwecametoagloomy—lookingvalleytrendingduenorth；downthisvalleytheroadran，havinganenormouswallofrocksonitsrightandaprecipitoushollowontheleft，beyondwhichwasawallequallyhighastheotherone。Whenwehadproceededsomewaydowntheroadmyguidesaid。"Youshallnowhearawonderfulecho，"andshouting"taw，taw，"therocksrepliedinamannersomethinglikethebayingofhounds。"Harktothedogs！"exclaimedmycompanion。"ThispassiscalledNantyrieuancgwn，thepassoftheyoungdogs，becausewhenoneshoutsitanswerswithanoiseresemblingthecryingofhounds。"

Thesunwassettingwhenwecametoasmallvillageatthebottomofthepass。Iaskedmycompanionitsname。"Tyynymaes，"hereplied，addingashestoppedbeforeasmallcottagethathewasgoingnofarther，ashedweltthere。

"Isthereapublic—househere？"saidI。

"Thereis，"hereplied，"youwillfindonealittlefartherupontherighthand。"

"Come，andtakesomeale，"saidI。

"No，"saidhe。