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A TRAMP ABROAD
投诉 阅读记录

第15章

WhileIwasfeelingthesethings,Iwasgroping,withoutknowingit,towardanunderstandingofwhatthespelliswhichpeoplefindintheAlps,andinnoothermountains——thatstrange,deep,namelessinfluence,which,oncefelt,cannotbeforgotten——oncefelt,leavesalwaysbehinditarestlesslongingtofeelitagain——alongingwhichislikehomesickness;agrieving,hauntingyearningwhichwillplead,implore,andpersecutetillithasitswill。

Imetdozensofpeople,imaginativeandunimaginative,cultivatedanduncultivated,whohadcomefromfarcountriesandroamedthroughtheSwissAlpsyearafteryear——theycouldnotexplainwhy。Theyhadcomefirst,theysaid,outofidlecuriosity,becauseeverybodytalkedaboutit;

theyhadcomesincebecausetheycouldnothelpit,andtheyshouldkeeponcoming,whiletheylived,forthesamereason;

theyhadtriedtobreaktheirchainsandstayaway,butitwasfutile;now,theyhadnodesiretobreakthem。

Otherscamenearerformulatingwhattheyfelt;theysaidtheycouldfindperfectrestandpeacenowhereelsewhentheyweretroubled:allfretsandworriesandchafingssanktosleepinthepresenceofthebenignantserenityoftheAlps;

theGreatSpiritoftheMountainbreathedhisownpeaceupontheirhurtmindsandsorehearts,andhealedthem;

theycouldnotthinkbasethoughtsordomeanandsordidthingshere,beforethevisiblethroneofGod。

DowntheroadapiecewasaKursaal——whateverthatmaybe——

andwejoinedthehumantidetoseewhatsortofenjoymentitmightafford。Itwastheusualopen-airconcert,inanornamentalgarden,withwines,beer,milk,whey,grapes,etc——thewheyandthegrapesbeingnecessariesoflifetocertaininvalidswhomphysicianscannotrepair,andwhoonlycontinuetoexistbythegraceofwheyorgrapes。Oneofthesedepartedspiritstoldme,inasadandlifelessway,thatthereisnowayforhimtolivebutbywhey,anddearly,dearlylovedwhey,hedidn"tknowwheyhedid,buthedid。Aftermakingthispunhedied——thatisthewheyitservedhim。

Someotherremains,preservedfromdecompositionbythegrapesystem,toldmethatthegrapeswereofapeculiarbreed,highlymedicinalintheirnature,andthattheywerecountedoutandadministeredbythegrape-doctorsasmethodicallyasiftheywerepills。

Thenewpatient,ifveryfeeble,beganwithonegrapebeforebreakfast,tookthreeduringbreakfast,acouplebetweenmeals,fiveatluncheon,threeintheafternoon,sevenatdinner,fourforsupper,andpartofagrapejustbeforegoingtobed,bywayofageneralregulator。

Thequantitywasgraduallyandregularlyincreased,accordingtotheneedsandcapacitiesofthepatient,untilbyandbyyouwouldfindhimdisposingofhisonegrapepersecondallthedaylong,andhisregularbarrelperday。

Hesaidthatmencuredinthisway,andenabledtodiscardthegrapesystem,neverafterwardgotoverthehabitoftalkingasiftheyweredictatingtoaslowamanuensis,becausetheyalwaysmadeapausebetweeneachtwowordswhiletheysuckedthesubstanceoutofanimaginarygrape。

Hesaidtheseweretediouspeopletotalkwith。

Hesaidthatmenwhohadbeencuredbytheotherprocesswereeasilydistinguishedfromtherestofmankindbecausetheyalwaystiltedtheirheadsback,betweeneverytwowords,andswallowedaswigofimaginarywhey。

Hesaiditwasanimpressivethingtoobservetwomen,whohadbeencuredbythetwoprocesses,engagedinconversation——saidtheirpausesandaccompanyingmovementsweresocontinuousandregularthatastrangerwouldthinkhimselfinthepresenceofacoupleofautomaticmachines。

Onefindsoutagreatmanywonderfulthings,bytraveling,ifhestumblesupontherightperson。

IdidnotremainlongattheKursaal;themusicwasgoodenough,butitseemedrathertameafterthecycloneofthatArkansawexpert。Besides,myadventurousspirithadconceivedaformidableenterprise——nothinglessthanatripfromInterlaken,bytheGemmiandVisp,cleartoZermatt,onfoot!Soitwasnecessarytoplanthedetails,andgetreadyforanearlystart。Thecourier(thiswasnottheoneIhavejustbeenspeakingof)

thoughtthattheportierofthehotelwouldbeabletotellushowtofindourway。Andsoitturnedout。

Heshowedusthewholething,onarelief-map,andwecouldseeourroute,withallitselevationsanddepressions,itsvillagesanditsrivers,asclearlyasifweweresailingoveritinaballoon。Arelief-mapisagreatthing。

Theportieralsowrotedowneachday"sjourneyandthenightlyhotelonapieceofpaper,andmadeourcoursesoplainthatweshouldneverbeabletogetlostwithouthigh-pricedoutsidehelp。

IputthecourierinthecareofagentlemanwhowasgoingtoLausanne,andthenwewenttobed,afterlayingoutthewalking-costumesandputtingthemintoconditionforinstantoccupationinthemorning。

However,whenwecamedowntobreakfastat8A。M。,itlookedsomuchlikerainthatIhiredatwo-horsetop-buggyforthefirstthirdofthejourney。FortwoorthreehourswejoggedalongthelevelroadwhichskirtsthebeautifullakeofThun,withadimanddreamlikepictureofwateryexpansesandspectralAlpineformsalwaysbeforeus,veiledinamellowingmist。Thenasteadydownpoursetin,andhideverythingbutthenearestobjects。

Wekepttherainoutofourfaceswithumbrellas,andawayfromourbodieswiththeleatherapronofthebuggy;

butthedriversatunshelteredandplacidlysoakedtheweatherinandseemedtolikeit。Wehadtheroadtoourselves,andIneverhadapleasanterexcursion。

TheweatherbegantoclearwhileweweredrivingupavalleycalledtheKienthal,andpresentlyavastblackcloud-bankinfrontofusdissolvedawayanduncurtainedthegrandproportionsandthesoaringloftinessoftheBlumisAlp。Itwasasortofbreath-takingsurprise;

forwehadnotsupposedtherewasanythingbehindthatlow-hungblanketofsablecloudbutlevelvalley。

Whatwehadbeenmistakingforfleetingglimpsesofskyawayaloftthere,werereallypatchesoftheBlumis"ssnowycrestcaughtthroughshreddedrentsinthedriftingpallofvapor。

WedinedintheinnatFrutigen,andourdriveroughttohavedinedthere,too,buthewouldnothavehadtimetodineandgetdrunkboth,sohegavehismindtomakingamasterpieceofthelatter,andsucceeded。

AGermangentlemanandhistwoyoung-ladydaughtershadbeentakingtheirnooningattheinn,andwhentheyleft,justaheadofus,itwasplainthattheirdriverwasasdrunkasours,andashappyandgood-natured,too,whichwassayingagooddeal。Theserascalsoverflowedwithattentionsandinformationfortheirguests,andwithbrotherlyloveforeachother。Theytiedtheirreins,andtookofftheircoatsandhats,sothattheymightbeabletogiveunencumberedattentiontoconversationandtothegesturesnecessaryforitsillustration。

Theroadwassmooth;itledupandoveranddownacontinualsuccessionofhills;butitwasnarrow,thehorseswereusedtoit,andcouldnotwellgetoutofitanyhow;

sowhyshouldn"tthedriversentertainthemselvesandus?

Thenosesofourhorsesprojectedsociablyintotherearoftheforwardcarriage,andaswetoiledupthelonghillsourdriverstoodupandtalkedtohisfriend,andhisfriendstoodupandtalkedbacktohim,withhisreartothescenery。Whenthetopwasreachedandwewentflyingdowntheotherside,therewasnochangeintheprogram。Icarryinmymemoryyetthepictureofthatforwarddriver,onhiskneesonhishighseat,restinghiselbowsonitsback,andbeamingdownonhispassengers,withhappyeye,andflyinghair,andjollyredface,andofferinghiscardtotheoldGermangentlemanwhilehepraisedhishackandhorses,andbothteamswerewhizzingdownalonghillwithnobodyinapositiontotellwhetherwewereboundtodestructionoranundeservedsafety。

Towardsunsetweenteredabeautifulgreenvalleydottedwithchalets,acozylittledomainhiddenawayfromthebusyworldinacloisterednookamonggiantprecipicestoppedwithsnowypeaksthatseemedtofloatlikeislandsabovethecurlingsurfoftheseaofvaporthatseveredthemfromthelowerworld。Downfromvagueandvaporousheights,littleruffledzigzagmilkycurrentscamecrawling,andfoundtheirwaytothevergeofoneofthosetremendousoverhangingwalls,whencetheyplunged,ashaftofsilver,shiveredtoatomsinmid-descentandturnedtoanairpuffofluminousdust。Hereandthere,ingrooveddepressionsamongthesnowydesolationsoftheupperaltitudes,oneglimpsedtheextremityofaglacier,withitssea-greenandhoneycombedbattlementsofice。

Upthevalley,underadizzyprecipice,nestledthevillageofKandersteg,ourhalting-placeforthenight。

Weweresoonthere,andhousedinthehotel。Butthewaningdayhadsuchaninvitinginfluencethatwedidnotremainhousedmanymoments,butstruckoutandfollowedaroaringtorrentofice-wateruptoitsfarsourceinasortoflittlegrass-carpetedparlor,walledinallaroundbyvastprecipicesandoverlookedbyclusteringsummitsofice。

Thiswasthesnuggestlittlecroquet-groundimaginable;

itwasperfectlylevel,andnotmorethanamilelongbyhalfamilewide。Thewallsarounditweresogigantic,andeverythingaboutitwasonsomightyascalethatitwasbelittled,bycontrast,towhatIhavelikeneditto——acozyandcarpetedparlor。ItwassohighabovetheKanderstegvalleythattherewasnothingbetweenitandthesnowy-peaks。Ihadneverbeeninsuchintimaterelationswiththehighaltitudesbefore;thesnow-peakshadalwaysbeenremoteandunapproachablegrandeurs,hitherto,butnowwewerehob-a-nob——ifonemayusesuchaseeminglyirreverentexpressionaboutcreationssoaugustasthese。

Wecouldseethestreamswhichfedthetorrentwehadfollowedissuingfromunderthegreenishrampartsofglaciers;buttwoorthreeofthese,insteadofflowingovertheprecipices,sankdownintotherockandspranginbigjetsoutofholesinthemid-faceofthewalls。

ThegreennookwhichIhavebeendescribingiscalledtheGasternthal。Theglacierstreamsgatherandflowthroughitinabroadandrushingbrooktoanarrowcleftbetweenloftyprecipices;heretherushingbrookbecomesamadtorrentandgoesboomingandthunderingdowntowardKandersteg,lashingandthrashingitswayoverandamongmonsterboulders,andhurlingchancerootsandlogsaboutlikestraws。

Therewasnolackofcascadesalongthisroute。

Thepathbythesideofthetorrentwassonarrowthatonehadtolooksharp,whenheheardacow-bell,andhuntforaplacethatwaswideenoughtoaccommodateacowandaChristiansidebyside,andsuchplaceswerenotalwaystobehadataninstant"snotice。Thecowswearchurch-bells,andthatisagoodideainthecows,forwherethattorrentis,youcouldn"thearanordinarycow-bellanyfurtherthanyoucouldhearthetickingofawatch。

Ineededexercise,soIemployedmyagentinsettingstrandedlogsanddeadtreesadrift,andIsatonaboulderandwatchedthemgowhirlingandleapingheadoverheelsdowntheboilingtorrent。Itwasawonderfullyexhilaratingspectacle。WhenIhadhadenoughexercise,Imadetheagenttakesome,byrunningaracewithoneofthoselogs。Imadeatriflebybettingonthelog。

AfterdinnerwehadawalkupanddowntheKanderstegvalley,inthesoftgloaming,withthespectacleofthedyinglightsofdayplayingaboutthecrestsandpinnaclesofthestillandsolemnupperrealmforcontrast,andtextfortalk。

Therewerenosoundsbutthedulledcomplainingofthetorrentandtheoccasionaltinklingofadistantbell。

Thespiritoftheplacewasasenseofdeep,pervadingpeace;

onemightdreamhislifetranquillyawaythere,andnotmissitorminditwhenitwasgone。

Thesummerdepartedwiththesun,andwintercamewiththestars。Itgrewtobeabitternightinthatlittlehotel,backedupagainstaprecipicethathadnovisibletoptoit,butwekeptwarm,andwokeintimeinthemorningtofindthateverybodyelsehadleftforGemmithreehoursbefore——

soourlittleplanofhelpingthatGermanfamily(principallytheoldman)overthepass,wasablockedgenerosity。

CHAPTERXXXIV

[TheWorld"sHighestPigFarm]

Wehiredtheonlyguideleft,toleadusonourway。

Hewasoverseventy,buthecouldhavegivenmenine-tenthsofhisstrengthandstillhadallhisageentitledhimto。

Heshoulderedoursatchels,overcoats,andalpenstocks,andwesetoutupthesteeppath。Itwashotwork。

Theoldmansoonbeggedustohandoverourcoatsandwaistcoatstohimtocarry,too,andwedidit;

onecouldnotrefusesolittleathingtoapooroldmanlikethat;heshouldhavehadthemifhehadbeenahundredandfifty。

Whenwebeganthatascent,wecouldseeamicroscopicchaletperchedawayupagainstheavenonwhatseemedtobethehighestmountainnearus。Itwasonourright,acrossthenarrowheadofthevalley。Butwhenwegotupabreastitonitsownlevel,mountainsweretoweringhighaboveoneveryhand,andwesawthatitsaltitudewasjustaboutthatofthelittleGasternthalwhichwehadvisitedtheeveningbefore。Stillitseemedalongwayupintheair,inthatwasteandlonelywildernessofrocks。

Ithadanunfencedgrass-plotinfrontofitwhichseemedaboutasbigasabilliard-table,andthisgrass-plotslantedsosharplydownward,andwassobrief,andendedsoexceedinglysoonatthevergeoftheabsoluteprecipice,thatitwasashudderythingtothinkofaperson"sventuringtotrusthisfootonaninclinesosituatedatall。

Supposeamansteppedonanorangepeelinthatyard;

therewouldbenothingforhimtoseize;nothingcouldkeephimfromrolling;fiverevolutionswouldbringhimtotheedge,andoverhewouldgo。Whatafrightfuldistancehewouldfall!——forthereareveryfewbirdsthatflyashighashisstarting-point。Hewouldstrikeandbounce,twoorthreetimes,onhiswaydown,butthiswouldbenoadvantagetohim。Iwouldassoontakinganairingontheslantofarainbowasinsuchafrontyard。

Iwouldrather,infact,forthedistancedownwouldbeaboutthesame,anditispleasantertoslidethantobounce。

Icouldnotseehowthepeasantsgotuptothatchalet——

theregionseemedtoosteepforanythingbutaballoon。

Aswestrolledon,climbinguphigherandhigher,wewerecontinuallybringingneighboringpeaksintoviewandloftyprominencewhichhadbeenhiddenbehindlowerpeaksbefore;

sobyandby,whilestandingbeforeagroupofthesegiants,welookedaroundforthechaletagain;thereitwas,awaydownbelowus,apparentlyonaninconspicuousridgeinthevalley!Itwasasfarbelowus,now,asithadbeenaboveuswhenwewerebeginningtheascent。

Afterawhilethepathledusalongarailedprecipice,andwelookedover——farbeneathuswasthesnugparloragain,thelittleGasternthal,withitswaterjetsspoutingfromthefaceofitsrockwalls。Wecouldhavedroppedastoneintoit。Wehadbeenfindingthetopoftheworldallalong——andalwaysfindingastillhighertopstealingintoviewinadisappointingwayjustahead;whenwelookeddownintotheGasternthalwefeltprettysurethatwehadreachedthegenuinetopatlast,butitwasnotso;

thereweremuchhigheraltitudestobescaledyet。

Wewerestillinthepleasantshadeofforesttrees,wewerestillinaregionwhichwascushionedwithbeautifulmossesandaglowwiththemany-tintedlusterofinnumerablewildflowers。

Wefound,indeed,moreinterestinthewildflowersthaninanythingelse。Wegatheredaspecimenortwoofeverykindwhichwewereunacquaintedwith;sowehadsumptuousbouquets。Butoneofthechiefinterestslayinchasingtheseasonsoftheyearupthemountain,anddeterminingthembythepresenceofflowersandberrieswhichwewereacquaintedwith。Forinstance,itwastheendofAugustatthelevelofthesea;

intheKanderstegvalleyatthebaseofthepass,wefoundflowerswhichwouldnotbedueatthesea-levelfortwoorthreeweeks;higherup,weenteredOctober,andgatheredfringedgentians。Imadenonotes,andhaveforgottenthedetails,buttheconstructionofthefloralcalendarwasveryentertainingwhileitlasted。

InthehighregionswefoundrichstoreofthesplendidredflowercalledtheAlpinerose,butwedidnotfindanyexamplesoftheuglySwissfavoritecalledEdelweiss。

Itsnameseemstoindicatethatitisanobleflowerandthatitiswhite。Itmaybenobleenough,butitisnotattractive,anditisnotwhite。

Thefuzzyblossomisthecolorofbadcigarashes,andappearstobemadeofacheapqualityofgrayplush。

Ithasanobleanddistantwayofconfiningitselftothehighaltitudes,butthatisprobablyonaccountofitslooks;

itapparentlyhasnomonopolyofthoseupperaltitudes,however,fortheyaresometimesintrudeduponbysomeoftheloveliestofthevalleyfamiliesofwildflowers。

EverybodyintheAlpswearsasprigofEdelweissinhishat。

Itisthenative"spet,andalsothetourist"s。

Allthemorning,asweloafedalong,havingagoodtime,otherpedestrianswentstavingbyuswithvigorousstrides,andwiththeintentanddeterminedlookofmenwhowerewalkingforawager。Theseworelooseknee-breeches,longyarnstockings,andhobnailedhigh-lacedwalking-shoes。

TheyweregentlemenwhowouldgohometoEnglandorGermanyandtellhowmanymilestheyhadbeatentheguide-bookeveryday。ButIdoubtediftheyeverhadmuchrealfun,outsideofthemeremagnificentexhilarationofthetrampthroughthegreenvalleysandthebreezyheights;

fortheywerealmostalwaysalone,andeventhefinestscenerylosesincalculablywhenthereisnoonetoenjoyitwith。

Allthemorninganendlessdoubleprocessionofmule-mountedtouristsfiledpastusalongthenarrowpath——theoneprocessiongoing,theothercoming。WehadtakenagooddealoftroubletoteachourselvesthekindlyGermancustomofsalutingallstrangerswithdoffedhat,andweresolutelyclungtoit,thatmorning,althoughitkeptusbareheadedmostofthetimeandwasnotalwaysrespondedto。Stillwefoundaninterestinthething,becausewenaturallylikedtoknowwhowereEnglishandAmericansamongthepassers-by。Allcontinentalnativesrespondedofcourse;sodidsomeoftheEnglishandAmericans,but,asageneralthing,thesetworacesgavenosign。Wheneveramanorawomanshoweduscoldneglect,wespokeupconfidentlyinourowntongueandaskedforsuchinformationaswehappenedtoneed,andwealwaysgotareplyinthesamelanguage。

TheEnglishandAmericanfolkarenotlesskindlythanotherraces,theyareonlymorereserved,andthatcomesofhabitandeducation。Inonedreary,rockywaste,awayabovethelineofvegetation,wemetaprocessionoftwenty-fivemountedyoungmen,allfromAmerica。

Wegotansweringbowsenoughfromthese,ofcourse,fortheywereofanagetolearntodoinRomeasRomedoes,withoutmucheffort。

Atoneextremityofthispatchofdesolation,overhungbybareandforbiddingcragswhichhusbandeddriftsofeverlastingsnowintheirshadedcavities,wasasmallstretchofthinanddiscouragedgrass,andamanandafamilyofpigswereactuallylivinghereinsomeshanties。

Consequentlythisplacecouldbereallyreckonedas"property";ithadamoneyvalue,andwasdoubtlesstaxed。

Ithinkitmusthavemarkedthelimitofrealestateinthisworld。Itwouldbehardtosetamoneyvalueuponanypieceofearththatliesbetweenthatspotandtheemptyrealmofspace。Thatmanmayclaimthedistinctionofowningtheendoftheworld,forifthereisanydefiniteendtotheworldhehascertainlyfoundit。

Fromhereforwardwemovedthroughastorm-sweptandsmilelessdesolation。Allaboutusrosegiganticmasses,crags,andrampartsofbareanddrearyrock,withnotavestigeorsemblanceofplantortreeorfloweranywhere,orglimpseofanycreaturethathadlife。

Thefrostandthetempestsofunnumberedageshadbatteredandhackedatthesecliffs,withadeathlessenergy,destroyingthempiecemeal;soalltheregionabouttheirbaseswasatumbledchaosofgreatfragmentswhichhadbeensplitoffandhurledtotheground。

Soiledandagedbanksofsnowlaycloseaboutourpath。

TheghastlydesolationoftheplacewasastremendouslycompleteasifDor"ehadfurnishedtheworking-plansforit。Buteverynowandthen,throughthesterngatewaysarounduswecaughtaviewofsomeneighboringmajesticdome,sheathedwithglitteringice,anddisplayingitswhitepurityatanelevationcomparedtowhichourswasgrovelingandplebeian,andthisspectaclealwayschainedone"sinterestandadmirationatonce,andmadehimforgettherewasanythinguglyintheworld。

Ihavejustsaidthattherewasnothingbutdeathanddesolationinthesehideousplaces,butIforgot。

Inthemostforlornandaridanddismaloneofall,wheretherackedandsplintereddebriswasthickest,wheretheancientpatchesofsnowlayagainsttheverypath,wherethewindsblewbitterestandthegeneralaspectwasmournfulestanddreariest,andfurthestfromanysuggestionofcheerorhope,Ifoundasolitaryweeforget-me-notflourishingaway,notadroopaboutitanywhere,butholdingitsbrightbluestarupwiththeprettiestandgallantestairintheworld,theonlyhappyspirit,theonlysmilingthing,inallthatgrislydesert。

Sheseemedtosay,"Cheerup!——aslongaswearehere,letusmakethebestofit。"Ijudgedshehadearnedarighttoamorehospitableplace;soIpluckedherupandsenthertoAmericatoafriendwhowouldrespectherforthefightshehadmade,allbyhersmallself,tomakeawholevastdespondentAlpinedesolationstopbreakingitsheartovertheunalterable,andholdupitsheadandlookatthebrightsideofthingsforonce。

WestoppedforanooningatastronglybuiltlittleinncalledtheSchwarenbach。Itsitsinalonelyspotamongthepeaks,whereitissweptbythetrailingfringesofthecloud-rack,andisrainedon,andsnowedon,andpeltedandpersecutedbythestorms,nearlyeverydayofitslife。ItwastheonlyhabitationinthewholeGemmiPass。

Closeathand,now,wasachanceforablood-curdlingAlpineadventure。CloseathandwasthesnowymassoftheGreatAltelscoolingitstopknotintheskyanddaringustoanascent。Iwasfiredwiththeidea,andimmediatelymadeupmymindtoprocurethenecessaryguides,ropes,etc。,andundertakeit。IinstructedHarristogotothelandlordoftheinnandsethimaboutourpreparations。Meantime,Iwentdiligentlytoworktoreadupandfindoutwhatthismuch-talked-ofmountain-climbingwaslike,andhowoneshouldgoaboutit——forinthesemattersIwasignorant。IopenedMr。Hinchliff"sSUMMERMONTHSAMONGTHEALPS(published1857),andselectedhisaccountofhisascentofMonteRosa。

Itbegan:

"Itisverydifficulttofreethemindfromexcitementontheeveningbeforeagrandexpedition——"

IsawthatIwastoocalm;soIwalkedtheroomawhileandworkedmyselfintoahighexcitement;butthebook"snextremark——thattheadventurermustgetupattwointhemorning——cameasnearasanythingtoflattingitalloutagain。However,Ireinforcedit,andreadon,abouthowMr。Hinchliffdressedbycandle-lightandwas"soondownamongtheguides,whowerebustlingaboutinthepassage,packingprovisions,andmakingeverypreparationforthestart";

andhowheglancedoutintothecoldclearnightandsawthat——

"Thewholeskywasblazingwithstars,largerandbrighterthantheyappearthroughthedenseatmospherebreathedbyinhabitantsofthelowerpartsoftheearth。

Theyseemedactuallysuspendedfromthedarkvaultofheaven,andtheirgentlelightshedafairylikegleamoverthesnow-fieldsaroundthefootoftheMatterhorn,whichraiseditsstupendouspinnacleonhigh,penetratingtotheheartoftheGreatBear,andcrowningitselfwithadiademofhismagnificentstars。Notasounddisturbedthedeeptranquillityofthenight,exceptthedistantroarofstreamswhichrushfromthehighplateauoftheSt。Theoduleglacier,andfallheadlongoverprecipitousrockstilltheylosethemselvesinthemazesoftheGornerglacier。"

Hetookhishottoastandcoffee,andthenabouthalfpastthreehiscaravanoftenmenfiledawayfromtheRiffelHotel,andbeganthesteepclimb。

Athalfpastfivehehappenedtoturnaround,and"beheldthegloriousspectacleoftheMatterhorn,justtouchedbytherosy-fingeredmorning,andlookinglikeahugepyramidoffirerisingoutofthebarrenoceanoficeandrockaroundit。"ThentheBreithornandtheDentBlanchecaughttheradiantglow;but"theinterveningmassofMonteRosamadeitnecessaryforustoclimbmanylonghoursbeforewecouldhopetoseethesunhimself,yetthewholeairsoongrewwarmerafterthesplendidbirthoftheday。"

HegazedattheloftycrownofMonteRosaandthewastesofsnowthatguardeditssteepapproaches,andthechiefguidedeliveredtheopinionthatnomancouldconquertheirawfulheightsandputhisfootuponthatsummit。

Buttheadventurersmovedsteadilyon,nevertheless。

Theytoiledup,andup,andstillup;theypassedtheGrandPlateau;thentoiledupasteepshoulderofthemountain,clinginglikefliestoitsruggedface;

andnowtheywereconfrontedbyatremendouswallfromwhichgreatblocksoficeandsnowwereevidentlyinthehabitoffalling。Theyturnedasidetoskirtthiswall,andgraduallyascendeduntiltheirwaywasbarredbya"mazeofgiganticsnowcrevices,"——sotheyturnedasideagain,and"beganalongclimbofsufficientsteepnesstomakeazigzagcoursenecessary。"

Fatiguecompelledthemtohaltfrequently,foramomentortwo。Atoneofthesehaltssomebodycalledout,"LookatMontBlanc!"and"wewereatoncemadeawareoftheverygreatheightwehadattainedbyactuallyseeingthemonarchoftheAlpsandhisattendantsatellitesrightoverthetopoftheBreithorn,itselfatleast14,000feethigh!"

Thesepeoplemovedinsinglefile,andwerealltiedtoastrongrope,atregulardistancesapart,sothatifoneofthemslippedonthosegiddyheights,theotherscouldbracethemselvesontheiralpenstocksandsavehimfromdartingintothevalley,thousandsoffeetbelow。

Byandbytheycametoanice-coatedridgewhichwastiltedupatasharpangle,andhadaprecipiceononesideofit。

Theyhadtoclimbthis,sotheguideintheleadcutstepsintheicewithhishatchet,andasfastashetookhistoesoutofoneoftheseslightholes,thetoesofthemanbehindhimoccupiedit。

"Slowlyandsteadilywekeptonourwayoverthisdangerouspartoftheascent,andIdaresayitwasfortunateforsomeofusthatattentionwasdistractedfromtheheadbytheparamountnecessityoflookingafterthefeet;

FOR,WHILEONTHELEFTTHEINCLINEOFICEWASSOSTEEP

THATITWOULDBEIMPOSSIBLEFORANYMANTOSAVEHIMSELF

INCASEOFASLIP,UNLESSTHEOTHERSCOULDHOLDHIMUP,ONTHERIGHTWEMIGHTDROPAPEBBLEFROMTHEHANDOVER

PRECIPICESOFUNKNOWNEXTENTDOWNUPONTHETREMENDOUS

GLACIERBELOW。

"Greatcaution,therefore,wasabsolutelynecessary,andinthisexposedsituationwewereattackedbyallthefuryofthatgrandenemyofaspirantstoMonteRosa——asevereandbitterlycoldwindfromthenorth。

Thefinepowderysnowwasdrivenpastusintheclouds,penetratingtheintersticesofourclothes,andthepiecesoficewhichflewfromtheblowsofPeter"saxwerewhiskedintotheair,andthendashedovertheprecipice。

Wehadquiteenoughtodotopreventourselvesfrombeingservedinthesameruthlessfashion,andnowandthen,inthemoreviolentgustsofwind,weregladtostickouralpenstocksintotheiceandholdonhard。"

Havingsurmountedthisperiloussteep,theysatdownandtookabriefrestwiththeirbacksagainstashelteringrockandtheirheelsdanglingoverabottomlessabyss;

thentheyclimbedtothebaseofanotherridge——amoredifficultanddangerousonestill:

"Thewholeoftheridgewasexceedinglynarrow,andthefalloneachsidedesperatelysteep,buttheiceinsomeoftheseintervalsbetweenthemassesofrockassumedtheformofameresharpedge,almostlikeaknife;

theseplaces,thoughnotmorethanthreeorfourshortpacesinlength,lookeduncommonlyawkward;but,liketheswordleadingtruebelieverstothegatesofParadise,theymustneedsbepassedbeforewecouldattaintothesummitofourambition。Thesewereinoneortwoplacessonarrow,thatinsteppingoverthemwithtoeswellturnedoutforgreatersecurity,ONEENDOFTHE

FOOTPROJECTEDOVERTHEAWFULPRECIPICEONTHERIGHT,WHILETHEOTHERWASONTHEBEGINNINGOFTHEICESLOPEON

THELEFT,WHICHWASSCARCELYLESSSTEEPTHANTHEROCKS。

OntheseoccasionsPeterwouldtakemyhand,andeachofusstretchingasfaraswecould,hewasthusenabledtogetafirmfootingtwopacesorrathermorefromme,whenceaspringwouldprobablybringhimtotherockontheotherside;then,turningaround,hecalledtometocome,and,takingacoupleofstepscarefully,Iwasmetatthethirdbyhisoutstretchedhandreadytoclaspmine,andinamomentstoodbyhisside。

Theothersfollowedinmuchthesamefashion。Oncemyrightfootslippedonthesidetowardtheprecipice,butIthrewoutmyleftarminamomentsothatitcaughttheicyedgeundermyarmpitasIfell,andsupportedmeconsiderably;atthesameinstantIcastmyeyesdownthesideonwhichIhadslipped,andcontrivedtoplantmyrightfootonapieceofrockaslargeasacricket-ball,whichchancedtoprotrudethroughtheice,ontheveryedgeoftheprecipice。Beingthusanchoredforeandaft,asitwere,IbelieveIcouldeasilyhaverecoveredmyself,evenifIhadbeenalone,thoughitmustbeconfessedthesituationwouldhavebeenanawfulone;

asitwas,however,ajerkfromPetersettledthematterverysoon,andIwasonmylegsallrightinaninstant。

Theropeisanimmensehelpinplacesofthiskind。"

Nowtheyarrivedatthebaseofagreatknobordomeveneeredwithiceandpowderedwithsnow——theutmost,summit,thelastbitofsoliditybetweenthemandthehollowvaultofheaven。Theysettoworkwiththeirhatchets,andweresooncreeping,insectlike,upitssurface,withtheirheelsprojectingoverthethinnestkindofnothingness,thickenedupalittlewithafewwanderingshredsandfilmsofcloudmovinginalazyprocessionfarbelow。

Presently,oneman"stoe-holdbrokeandhefell!Therehedangledinmid-airattheendoftherope,likeaspider,tillhisfriendsabovehauledhimintoplaceagain。

Alittlebitlater,thepartystoodupontheweepedestaloftheverysummit,inadrivingwind,andlookedoutuponthevastgreenexpansesofItalyandashorelessoceanofbillowyAlps。

WhenIhadreadthusfar,Harrisbrokeintotheroominanobleexcitementandsaidtheropesandtheguidesweresecured,andaskedifIwasready。IsaidI

believedIwouldn"tascendtheAltelsthistime。

IsaidAlp-climbingwasadifferentthingfromwhatIhadsupposeditwas,andsoIjudgedwehadbetterstudyitspointsalittlemorebeforewewentdefinitelyintoit。

ButItoldhimtoretaintheguidesandorderthemtofollowustoZermatt,becauseImeanttousethemthere。

IsaidIcouldfeelthespiritofadventurebeginningtostirinme,andwassurethatthefellfascinationofAlp-climbingwouldsoonbeuponme。Isaidhecouldmakeuphismindtoitthatwewoulddoadeedbeforewewereaweekolderwhichwouldmakethehairofthetimidcurlwithfright。

ThismadeHarrishappy,andfilledhimwithambitiousanticipations。HewentatoncetotelltheguidestofollowustoZermattandbringalltheirparaphernaliawiththem。

CHAPTERXXXV

[SwindlingtheCoroner]

Agreatandpricelessthingisanewinterest!Howittakespossessionofaman!howitclingstohim,howitrideshim!IstrodeonwardfromtheSchwarenbackhostelryachangedman,areorganizedpersonality。

Iwalkedintoanewworld,Isawwithneweyes。

Ihadbeenlookingaloftatthegiantshow-peaksonlyasthingstobeworshipedfortheirgrandeurandmagnitude,andtheirunspeakablegraceofform;Ilookedupatthemnow,asalsothingstobeconqueredandclimbed。

Mysenseoftheirgrandeurandtheirnoblebeautywasneitherlostnorimpaired;Ihadgainedanewinterestinthemountainswithoutlosingtheoldones。

Ifollowedthesteeplinesup,inchbyinch,withmyeye,andnotedthepossibilityorimpossibilityoffollowingthemwithmyfeet。WhenIsawashininghelmetoficeprojectingabovetheclouds,ItriedtoimagineIsawfilesofblackspeckstoilingupitropedtogetherwithagossamerthread。

WeskirtedthelonelylittlelakecalledtheDaubensee,andpresentlypassedclosebyaglacierontheright——

athinglikeagreatriverfrozensolidinitsflowandbrokensquareofflikeawallatitsmouth。

Ihadneverbeensonearaglacierbefore。

Herewecameuponanewboardshanty,andfoundsomemenengagedinbuildingastonehouse;sotheSchwarenbackwassoontohavearival。Weboughtabottleorsoofbeerhere;

atanyratetheycalleditbeer,butIknewbythepricethatitwasdissolvedjewelry,andIperceivedbythetastethatdissolvedjewelryisnotgoodstufftodrink。

Weweresurroundedbyahideousdesolation。Westeppedforwardtoasortofjumping-offplace,andwereconfrontedbyastartlingcontrast:weseemedtolookdownintofairyland。

Twoorthreethousandfeetbelowuswasabrightgreenlevel,withaprettytowninitsmidst,andasilverystreamwindingamongthemeadows;thecharmingspotwaswalledinonallsidesbygiganticprecipicesclothedwithpines;

andoverthepines,outofthesofteneddistances,rosethesnowydomesandpeaksoftheMonteRosaregion。

Howexquisitelygreenandbeautifulthatlittlevalleydowntherewas!Thedistancewasnotgreatenoughtoobliteratedetails,itonlymadethemlittle,andmellow,anddainty,likelandscapesandtownsseenthroughthewrongendofaspy-glass。

Rightunderusanarrowledgeroseupoutofthevalley,withagreen,slanting,bench-shapedtop,andgroupedaboutuponthisgreen-baizebenchwerealotofblackandwhitesheepwhichlookedmerelylikeoversizedworms。

Thebenchseemedliftedwellupintoourneighborhood,butthatwasadeception——itwasalongwaydowntoit。

Webeganourdescent,now,bythemostremarkableroadI

haveeverseen。Itwounditcorkscrewcurvesdownthefaceofthecolossalprecipice——anarrowway,withalwaysthesolidrockwallatoneelbow,andperpendicularnothingnessattheother。Wemetaneverlastingprocessionofguides,porters,mules,litters,andtouristsclimbingupthissteepandmuddypath,andtherewasnoroomtosparewhenyouhadtopassatolerablyfatmule。

Ialwaystooktheinside,whenIheardorsawthemulecoming,andflattenedmyselfagainstthewall。

Ipreferredtheinside,ofcourse,butIshouldhavehadtotakeitanyhow,becausethemulepreferstheoutside。

Amule"spreference——onaprecipice——isathingtoberespected。Well,hischoiceisalwaystheoutside。

Hislifeismostlydevotedtocarryingbulkypanniersandpackageswhichrestagainsthisbody——thereforeheishabituatedtotakingtheoutsideedgeofmountainpaths,tokeephisbundlesfromrubbingagainstrocksorbanksontheother。Whenhegoesintothepassengerbusinessheabsurdlyclingstohisoldhabit,andkeepsonelegofhispassengeralwaysdanglingoverthegreatdeepsofthelowerworldwhilethatpassenger"sheartisinthehighlands,sotospeak。MorethanonceIsawamule"shindfootcaveovertheouteredgeandsendearthandrubbishintothebottomabyss;andInoticedthatupontheseoccasionstherider,whethermaleorfemale,lookedtolerablyunwell。

Therewasoneplacewhereaneighteen-inchbreadthoflightmasonryhadbeenaddedtothevergeofthepath,andastherewasaverysharpturnhere,apaneloffencinghadbeensetupthereatsometime,asaprotection。

Thispanelwasoldandgrayandfeeble,andthelightmasonryhadbeenloosenedbyrecentrains。AyoungAmericangirlcamealongonamule,andinmakingtheturnthemule"shindfootcavedalltheloosemasonryandoneofthefence-postsoverboard;themulegaveaviolentlurchinboardtosavehimself,andsucceededintheeffort,butthatgirlturnedaswhiteasthesnowsofMontBlancforamoment。

Thepathwassimplyagroovecutintothefaceoftheprecipice;therewasafour-footbreadthofsolidrockunderthetraveler,andfour-footbreadthofsolidrockjustabovehishead,liketheroofofanarrowporch;

hecouldlookoutfromthisgalleryandseeasheersummitlessandbottomlesswallofrockbeforehim,acrossagorgeorcrackabiscuit"stossinwidth——

buthecouldnotseethebottomofhisownprecipiceunlesshelaydownandprojectedhisnoseovertheedge。

Ididnotdothis,becauseIdidnotwishtosoilmyclothes。

Everyfewhundredyards,atparticularlybadplaces,onecameacrossapanelorsoofplankfencing;buttheywerealwaysoldandweak,andtheygenerallyleanedoutoverthechasmanddidnotmakeanyrashpromisestoholduppeoplewhomightneedsupport。Therewasoneofthesepanelswhichhadonlyitsupperboardleft;

apedestrianizingEnglishyouthcametearingdownthepath,wasseizedwithanimpulsetolookovertheprecipice,andwithoutaninstant"sthoughthethrewhisweightuponthatcrazyboard。Itbentoutwardafoot!Inevermadeagaspbeforethatcamesonearsuffocatingme。

TheEnglishyouth"sfacesimplyshowedalivelysurprise,butnothingmore。Hewentswingingalongvalleywardagain,asifhedidnotknowhehadjustswindledacoronerbytheclosestkindofashave。

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